We awoke next to the San Joaquin River, which provided some solid white noise for some deep REM sleep. Our serenity was soon broken by the mosquito ambush awaiting us just outside of the tent. The little critters buzzed our ears and stuck their unwelcome probosces in our legs as we packed up camp.
Onward!
It wasn’t long before we were on our feet fleeing from the aggressive assault. A moment’s pause would just attract another nearby horde of mosquitoes so we had good motivation to keep moving. We soon found a good bridge over Turret Creek with a spiffy new John Muir Wilderness sign standing tall on the other side. We had officially left Kings Canyon NP, and we were delighted to explore this new national forest.
Thanks for the bridge and the fancy craftsmanship
The forest seemed thick with a lot of downed trees and thick underbrush that could be cleared out with a good controlled burn. Pondos stood tall along with junipers, and sprinkled amongst their branches was the parasitic mistletoe and at their feet little blotches of fungi. Aspen groves popped up from time to time looking glorious and green backlit by the morning’s sun.
Calm lake, still and patientThe grass seems a little greener up here
Soon the trail turned to tight steep switchbacks, almost like a threaded stitch that was holding the mountain together at the seam. We soon popped out of the cover of trees and found manzanita and some sparse pines. Up and up we climbed, the trail seemed relentless until finally we found a lunch meadow paradise fed by a clear stream. A deer walked silently across the meadow as if undisturbed by our presence.
Pretty serene landscape
After meandering through the meadow the trail took off climbing again until we popped up onto a higher plateau that sheltered Western White Pines. Up here we saw 3 more deer, one still had its velvet covering its rack. A few more switchbacks and we found a granite plateau where the Sallie Keys Lakes lay. One fed the other and above them Heart Lake fed them both. We saw a few PCT hikers taking the polar plunge and waved to them as we passed. The final switchbacks took us by clear creeks where we finally found our first Golden Trout! We were so excited to see such a rare threatened fish.
Lakes, clear skies, and trees for days!
We climbed the last switchbacks and finally peaked out at Selden Pass. A small 20 foot stretch of snow awaited us along with our friends Goldie and Workout! We took a break snacking and catching up, chatted about our plans for the rest of the day and went on admiring the view of the lakes below.
Little sketch from the PassIzzie plods on down towards some good swimming holes, ahoiiii!Feeling fresh after a quick dip!
We said goodbye and headed down the north side of the pass pausing at Marie Lake for a quick refreshing swim. As soon as we got out the mosquitoes were on us again, we rushed to get dressed and get moving down the trail. The valley before us descended in a series of small lakes and meadows, pine thickets and aspen groves until finally we reached the beautiful Bear Creek.
More cool downed trees, the growth patterns are so cool!Creeks galore!Crushing those creek crossings!
Much like the day before the trail led down the valley hand in hand with the river, giving us great views of its twisting and windings, waterfalls and moments of still tranquility. Soon we happened upon Goldie and Workout, we stopped and joined them for a quick swim, the emerald pool they chose was just too nice to pass by! Once back on the trail we padded through a green carpet wonderland, with Larkspur flowers afoot and aspen overhead, it was like a green tunnel through a fairy woodland.
More fun balance bridges, man its pretty spectacular out here!Cool old burned down tree, you can see the twist growth right through the core!This is a big fella, Izzie seems to approve!
We continued pressing on until Bear Creek decided to turn away from the trail and we stopped to filter some water for camp. Soon after, the climb up Bear Ridge began. It may not have been the full 3000 feet gained in the morning over Selden, but it felt like it packed the same punch in 2 miles. Straight up tight switchbacks soon gave us grand vistas of the valley below. After a hard push we found our camp and our friends Goldie and Workout. We set up our tent, made dinner, stretched, and chatted about movies, the future of fish and fire in the west, and took in the views we were all so appreciative to be seeing. It was a great day, and we both felt like we had finally found our trail legs!
Found a small but doable camp for the night, and time to enjoy the sunset!
Golden light had just started to show on the tips of the peaks as we exited the tent. It was a cool morning, yet felt warmer than the last few. The wind and cold over the last few days must have been holding off the mosquitos we had been warned about. We hoped they would hold off for a few more days until we reached Tuolumne. But for the task at hand, Muir Pass awaited. We strapped on our shoes and packs and marched up trail.
Not a bad river crossing!Alpine lakes are the best lakes.
The nameless alpine lake we slept near fell silent except for the cascading creeks that fed it from the northwest. We hiked up out of the basin leaving the last trees behind and found another alpine lake, this one a perfect mirror showing the snowy granite peaks behind. Each lake had a stream that fed it from the top and a stream that drained it from the bottom. It was a long chain of lakes, like pearls on a necklace, from the top of the pass down to the alpine plateau and eventually the Kings River and then on, hopefully, to the ocean. Sometimes traversing a wide snow patch, sometimes avoiding them by going round. Finally we crested a switchback and the tip of Muir Hut came into view. It was a welcome sight and we both were surprised by how quickly we had reached it. I sat and sketched the hut as Izzie inspected its insides. The fireplace had been bricked in, yet it still had an interesting smell that was hard to describe, it wasn’t dingy or moldy or old, it just smelled like stone and wood. A little small square window looked north and I could imagine what it would be like to watch a blizzard blow from the safety of the shelter.
Hiking up towards Muir Pass!Boulders are getting good as we climb higher!Well hello there Muir Pass and Muir Hut!
We picked up our packs once again and headed off, north, down the pass. As we passed the alpine lakes I thought how funny we must seem, like turtles slowly crossing a landscape with everything we needed on our backs. The lakes were beautiful and clear, you could see right down to the bottom. The trail skirted just along the edge of the lowest lake on the alpine plateau and we took a moment to glance back up at the cascading blue turquoise lakes.
Found a little break time after the climb to sketch!Muir HutBack down from the pass towards Evolution Valley!
We continued to descend into the canyon below. Little yellow flowers started popping up trailside, the tundra grew green and finally, to our disappointment a few rude mosquitos came up and sunk their proboscis into each of us without even as much as an introduction! We knew it was time to move, and continued down Evolution Valley.
No fish to be seen, we checked!Izzie, pretty stoked for lunch and a quick dip!
The last lake came into view, willow became more predominant, tundra flourished in flower, and eventually pines started to show. Little creeklets would come down off the canyon walls, strike across the landscape and somehow find their way into the lakes, like finding their way home.
Creeks are such a welcome sight, low need to carry water is pretty clutch!
We finally entered a forest of pines, and not a minute too soon as the sun seemed to crank up the heat. We could hear the rumble of a waterfall off in the distance, cicadas buzzing in the trees as we bombed down the switchbacks. We happened upon the beautiful waterfall just a stone’s throw from the trail and stopped for lunch. A swim was almost mandatory at this point being day 7 with no shower, but it didn’t seem much of a chore as it cooled our hot feet and knocked off the dirt from our dusty bodies.
Waterfalls all round!
Back into the cover of trees, nice little respite from the baking sun!
Large granite boulders took over the descent and grassy glades appeared along the flat portions of the crystal clear Evolution Creek. We passed McClure cabin, a tall pine building with not much character, but looked functional for the most part. We dropped further still through gates of granite, canopies of conifers, and crossing crystal clear creeklets. It was a pretty surreal afternoon.
Back under the cover of the canopy, a little respite from the warm sun!We came upon a large creek crossing and I pulled off my shoes and socks, Izzie just stomped on through (ain’t nobody got time for that!). We trekked on soon finding a large waterfall. The water sheets fell over the edge of boulders looking like the baleen plates of a whale. The powerful white frothy water bounded in twisted torrents down the mountain. Soon the trail followed suit and the switchbacks steepened. As we dropped in elevation the flora quickly began to change. Once Lodgepole Pines were now Aspen, Jeffrey Pine, and Juniper covered in lichen, while moss and ferns clung to their feet. The geology changed as well, granite turned to a dark grey metamorphosed gneiss, and finally after a long drop, we found a bridge that spanned the banks of the San Joaquin River.Big creek crossing! Getting soggy on this one for sure!
Evolution Creek poured into the San Joaquin and the trail bounded after the river as it raced down canyon. Aspen and Junipers studded the landscape and every once in a while we would see a small cottonwood clinging to the sunny side of the river. The river would turn from perfectly clear and quiet to a white torrent of rage as it jumped down a 10-15 foot cascading fall. We stood trailside at one of these waterfalls and imagined the line a kayaker might take to safely descend. For a moment I imagined myself in a small hard-shell boat taking the rapid turns and somehow clearing a huge drop. I came back to reality and we continued hiking down the canyon.
Man look at that gnarly run!Flowers sure are poppin!
The river jumped down drops, slid through narrow channels, and went back to being as smooth as glass in just a few miles. We finally chose our camp, just before the river left the trail and we set up our tent beneath the pines. It was a beautiful camp to cap off a beautiful day.
We emerged from the tent ready to start the day! The morning light had not yet fallen in the valley by the time our shoes were on trail. We padded our way toward the northeast end of Palisades Lakes and suddenly saw Goldie and Workout also on the move! We stopped for a quick chat, then headed north bombing down tight steep switchbacks amongst the pikas!
Time to get moving!Peering back up towards the Palisade Lakes feeding the riverPudgy Pika!
Palisade Creek flowed out of Palisade Lake and into the bottom of the canyon as we hiked our way north. The creek itself winded this way and that, sometimes crashing down on jagged rocks like gnashing teeth at pour overs. Rocks marbled dark grey and light stood guard in this upper section of the canyon. We enjoyed the descent in the cool morning and listened to the tune of birds chirping. One such bird hopping along trailside looked like a sparrow, but was almost a crimson brown and had a rosy pink flash on his wing.
Looking down canyon and into the day ahead!Izzie, all smiles 🙂
We continued down a slickrock descent, dropping further into the shaded canyon. We looked up, back from where we had come and saw the sun had made a golden rim at the top of a cliff face, backlighting the trees that stood on its edge. The towering giant granite faces gave way to talus fields and eventually green sage, snow brush, and willows that clung to the bottom of the valley where the river ran. The trail zig zagged just below the cliffs and sometimes cut down just near the creek before turning back and clutching to the cliff’s edge as we descended the canyon. Pikas chirped over the sound of the river from time to time, and finally the sun found us, bounding down the trail.
Still enjoying that morning lightFerns are poppin!Back down into the tree line, the creek takes over the trail
In some places the trail became soggy, delicate ferns took over in the wet shade, and eventually we reached a patch of forested pine trees. The trail went from granite to padded trail, and we listened as two competing grouse whoomphed their mating calls back and forth. The sweet scent of wood smoke drifted through the forest from a nearby camp. It was a great accompaniment to the padded soil trail.
Rock hopping anyone?!Well good morning to you too!
Soon we found aspens hugging the creek crossing in a burn area, as if to make a quick hostile take over where the pines had once stood. A large black lizard (skink?) with a blue underbelly scampered up one of the dead standing trees and a robin in the distance landed on a nearby tree. We were soon back in pines, when all of a sudden we found our first Black Cottonwood of the trip! We were really losing elevation now! The aspen forest grew larger, in both number and size and the sooty grouse seemed happy here as we counted at least 9 different whooopphhss through this section of canyon. We even found what we thought to be fresh bear scratches in aspen!
Distance peaks, standing proud
The going was surprisingly easy given the adventure going over 2 passes the day before. We happily plodded on until we found the Middle Fork of Kings River, which cut across the canyon we had descended. We started paralleling the Middle Fork as we entered Le Conte Canyon, and watched it go from flat and calm in an open meadow to a raging white torrent of a waterfall in a turn of the trail. As we plodded up the trail the creek meandered close then far, and finally when it came close enough we stopped for lunch. We stripped down and took a quick dip in the frigidly cold river and then sunbathed like lizards on the white granite beach as we stuffed our gullets with a tasty lunch.
Those aren’t tiger marks, I can tell you that much
Satiated, we pressed on, all the while watching the river make magical waterfalls, twists and turns, it was a mesmerizing thing to watch. At one point we crossed a small bridge, bent railings on the upstream side as if it had taken a big hit from a boulder being rolled down the river. We saw a small bird with a grey body and bright red head (Ruby Crowned Kinglet?) among the aspens as we climbed. Seemed like wildlife really thrives here.
River life is a good life!Taking in all the meadows!The rising granite never ceases to amazeLunch time!
We bumped into our friends Goldie and Workout once again and chatted on about our plans for the rest of the day before setting off again up the trail. The trail then turned up the heat and we started climbing arduously. The creek formed huge waterfalls over slickrock like a rippling curtain, almost looking like a bride’s veil or train of a wedding dress. This section near the falls had blooming tundra, moss and ferns, and reminded both of us so much of the Mist Trail, only without the hundreds of tourists.
Up up and away!Hungry hungry tree!Back down in the lower canyons
Enjoying the scenery, but working hard for the miles we pressed on, switchback after switchback grew steeper and the trail intensified its gain until finally we reached a large emerald blue lake at the top of La Conte Canyon just before the final climb to Muir Pass. It was stunning, and teaming with bullfrog tadpoles. Although non-native and invasive, it was still interesting to see such huge tadpoles with legs, in the midst of metamorphosis. We found a nice pad below a tree and set up our tent for the evening. Some cooking and stretches later, we found ourselves tucked away snug in bed before the sun went down. Such is the life of a backpacker!
Izzie leading on!Care for a dip!?Wow, these are some big boys!
It was a cool chilly morning, as we packed our things together. Izzie went to soak her foot in the river as I finished packing up the tent. Still not sure how she manages that first thing in the morning, it must be excruciating. The cold wind was low, water white noise high from the nearby creek when we finally strapped our packs on ready to take our first steps.
Waterfall in the valley as we climb towards the pass!
As we hiked up the valley we watched the creek roll down its belly in beautiful white cascading falls, sometimes fanning out, sometimes flowing over slick granite, others crashing onto large rocks. We left our hoods on as we climbed up the valley. Our hands shot with pain as the blood finally flowed back into our hands again. Izzie went to cross a creek and unwittingly placed a foot on an icy rock, slllip, wet feet on an already cold morning. The only saving grace is that we had a large climb to keep us warm.
Izzie, stoked to get moving and shake the frostCamped beneath this little gem for the night.
The sun still hadn’t found our faces as we quietly passed the uppermost trail camp a few miles below the pass. It was the last big forested refuge before the stark landscape above. There were still quite a few tents nestled below the trees, still quiet with sleeping hikers stowed away. As we climbed higher we heard a sooty grouse make his un-deniable mating call, a low woomph woomph woomphhh. I love hearing such interesting birds, especially far out in the backcountry!
Tall, twisted, and scraggly, guarding the trailUp we go, towards Pinchot Pass!Beautiful flowers, show their colors in the meadow.
The frosty soil crunched beneath our feet as we ascended to Pinchot Pass. The interesting ice columns that grew below the soil’s surface looked like miniature skyscrapers, glassy crystalline pinnacles crushing beneath our feet!
Just a tad chilly!The sun keeps us company!Ice patterns trailside
When the sun finally reached us, we had a view of a huge red ridge, frozen creeks trickling across the alpine, speckled with lush tundra. The water that flowed below the frozen creek’s surface pulsed like a lava lamp, trapped air bubbling together and flowing slowly beneath the ice. It was such a colorful pass, red iron rocks, green lush tundra with purple flowers, so much more color than the other fully grey granite passes we had encountered.
View back south of the passViews on the other side, beautiful colors in the rocks appear!
We finally reached the pass and sat for a snack to look over the vast landscape we had just traversed. Soon Goldie and Workout surprisingly came into view. We exclaimed welcomes and were glad to meet back up since our brief chat the afternoon before. Once snacks were done, we bid farewell and headed down the north side of Pinchot Pass.
Fun little sketch from the Pinchot Pass!
The valley was slightly different here than the last, small willows grew creekside, ice waterfalls led to beautiful emerald lakes across rolling planes, all under the watchful eye of the great sheets of grey granite that constructed the canyon walls above. Above grey, green and lush below.
Glacier lakes and granite as far as the eye can seePurple flowers pop up sporadically throughout the valley
We bombed down the valley chatting on and enjoying the beautiful views. After a long drop we reached the creek bottom and stopped for lunch near Kings River. It was nice to kick up our feet after a long climb and descent. We finally packed up and headed north past fields of purple shooting stars, so far it seems to be the flower of the JMT.
Onward!
After leaving the river bottom the scene seemed to open up. The green grass field speckled with boulders and lodgepole pines seemed to singularly dominate the landscape. As we climbed the trees thinned, and only sparsely speckled the landscape covered in tundra and a few lakes. The grey granite started to take over again. The padded trail soon changed to chunky rocks and eventually small boulders which we had to dodge. This really started to go to work on our feet as we climbed. Switchback after switchback as we inched up closer to Mather Pass.
The flowers doing their thing!Izzie on another crossing.The climb continues!
When we finally reached the top it seemed like a sigh of relief was in order, but a sigh too early. The downhill switchbacks were scattered with large rocks and we traveled carefully down trying not to roll an ankle, or stub a toe. The Palisade Lakes came into view but they seemed so far away. Yet, we pushed on, after rolling trail took us on a rollercoaster ride and really gave our feet a true beating we finally found ourselves on the edge of Palisade Lake. We put up our tent, cooked dinner, stretched, and crawled our tired yet satisfied bodies into our small snug tent. Another good day on the JMT!
Descending the Pass, headed to camp!Almost to the lake and finally food and rest for the day =)Camp at Paradise Lakes
An imposing granite face over Flower Lake was the first to catch the morning’s light. The sun started peaking through the trees and gave all the leaves a golden glow. Another magical morning in the Sierras! We finished packing up after breakfast and quickly got on the trail knowing we had some climbing to do today!
Trekking up towards Kearsarge PassBig Pothole Lake
Hoodies off, we set out, Izzie in the lead pushing strong after resting her foot/ankle in the afternoon before periodically forcing it into the shivering lake. We both kept our stride, even when the wind started whipping as we approached Kearsarge Pass. Down in the lake below the switchbacks we could see the wind and sun’s work on the water’s surface. It whipped and swirled while the sun gleamed on its surface making rapid moving shapes like a murmuration of starlings.
Finally we reached the pass and instantly put hoodies back on, the wind was unforgiving on the west side of the pass and nipped at our heels as we quickly descended, seeking refuge in the trees below. Small patches of ice were surprisingly still present on trail, we carefully navigated around them. Down, down, down, we went until finally reaching the trees, yet the wind still persisted. We could see Kearsarge Lake in the distance, and after a small hillock, the green Bullfrog Lake came into view.
Coming over the pass, nice and windy!Kearsarge Lakes
We trekked on and soon found ourselves back to the junction where the JMT meets the trail to Kearsarge Pass. From there the hoodies were peeled and a good climb soon ensued north on the JMT. Not many people talk about the effort it takes to gain the view from a pass. You can’t get it daydreaming at camp, or really experience the feeling watching a video with some epic sound track in the background, it takes work to get there, and work we did. The work was good, and so were the views!
First thru-hiker we saw all day! Ghost
The climb persisted after a short respite on a leisurely plateau, we climbed up above Charlotte Lake, which was set in a beautiful valley that was clearly shaped by a traveling glacier. On the far end of the valley a U shape was left in the granite face, and it was so cool to see its mark still remained!
U shaped goodness
Climbing still, we entered the final approach plateau to Glenn Pass where all the trees were hooked and bent towards the top of the pass as if to praise it or simply point the way. The way was up! We kept climbing, and after a few false summits we found the jagged lip of the pass and paused for a snack and to soak in the view.
Climbing up towards Glenn PassGlacier lake right before the Pass
We started to run into people, Ghost a NoBo PCT hiker stopped for some small talk, 2 JMTers from Sacramento looking like they were having the time of their life, and finally at the bottom of the snow patched pass we met a couple who had just got engaged at Rae Lakes! The gal beamed with delight and we chatted on for a bit about their 60 Lakes loop.
Almost there!Poking up and over the pass! Fun snow field ahead!
After leaving the couple we bombed down towards Rae Lakes. The upper lake was crystal light blue in the middle, green turquoise towards the edge and finally orange at the rim from the vegetation and shallow bank. It looked almost like a human Iris, glinting in the light, and absolutely breathtaking. We soon found a nice spot for lunch and took a cold plunge in the clear waters. Although the wind still lightly blew, the sun warmed our cold skin and we laid out like lizards hoping for warmth.
Beautiful Rae Lakes belowHappy chilly faces!Snow traverse!
We packed up and headed around the lake. Grey Jays flashed by in streaks of grey, black, and white. Brook trout swam just feet from the water’s edge and in the distance a quaint cabin stood overlooking all this beauty. I could only imagine what it must be like to live there, even for a brief season.
Water bridge between the lakes!Dragon PeakFresh and revived after a good swim =)
We started descending moss filled valleys crisscrossed with creeks, sprinkled with flowers and lush meandering meadows took over the plateaus. We descended a long staircase of plateaus from which each had its own lake and accompanying meadows, each lake would deepen in green as its size grew until towards the lower steps of the stair case the lakes were forest green.
Fin DomeSketchy sketchGreen meadows, headed down valley
On one such stairstep we met a Ranger named Mike and his wife Leanna who were staying in the Ranger Cabin for the summer. It sounded like a dream job, well perhaps not policing the public and making sure they are properly burying their feces, but I guess that’s a small price to pay for living in paradise. We chatted on about fish, fire, browning trees, mountains, all the important things, before finally saying goodbye and heading farther down the valley.
Coming past Arrow and Dollar LakeHeaded down South Fork of Woods CreekCastle Domes in the distance
We headed down and at the far end of the valley a large granite south facing wall named Castle Domes could be seen that was clearly formed by a glacier. It looked like a big blob of ice had slowly slid down its face making new wrinkles and curves that still held up to the test of time. We soon found the flora starting to change. Around 9050 feet we found our first aspen trees of the trip! Soon after our first purple lupin, followed by Indian paintbrush, sage, and beautiful little green ferns. Cedars started to appear and soon after silver firs.
The flora becomes more lush and green as we head below tree lineCreeks are neat!Pines are showing off their stuffSnack ready?!
We took it all in until finally we reached the suspension bridge giving passage to hikers over Wood Creek. We passed over one at a time (as recommended by the signage). The bridge swayed as we walked, not only up and down, but also side to side, finding a wave pattern in harmony with the rhythm of our stride, it was a pretty cool experience to have in the middle of nowhere!
Bridge!
After crossing the bridge we started pushing up the final stretch of trail before camp. It immediately amped up the elevation gain. This southern facing hill was dominated by Jeffrey Pines, as it was in full sun most of the day, and only broke by small streams running down towards the canyon bottom where more lush loving foliage clung. A large creek rushed down slickrock in the belly of the canyon trailside as we hiked north. The sun began threatening to hide behind the mountains just before we finally reached camp! It was a mashed potato kind of night and we were both thankful to find refuge in the tent on a flat pad beneath the shelter of a birch tree. Man what another great big day!
Back up we go!Woods Creek proper!Neon moss, yes please!Clouds get moody right before bed!
Hike Stats
Miles: 13.7 Total:
JMT Miles 4 (36.5 – 40.5) + Kearsarge Pass Miles (9.7)
Zippers, feet, and creeks. I started the day by pondering over zippers and how critial they are to backpacking. Tent doors, backpack pouches, puffy jackets, there are just so many things that would be so much harder without them . . . what’s the next invention to take the zipper’s place. I pondered this as I was packing up my sleeping bag and Izzie was boiling up some coffee for breakfast as a part of our morning ritual. We placed a stroopwaffle under our warm mug to make them like freshly baked cookies.
Cold in the shade but ready to trek!
Soon once all the cooking was done, Izzie went to the creek to tend to her foot, and I packed up our damp tent. Pro tip, if you camp near a creek or river, it’s highly likely you’ll have a ton of condensation on your tent and sleeping bag, so be sure to find some time at lunch to unroll them and dry out before you reach camp for the next night (no one likes to crawl into a wet tent).
Golden tipped peaks warm our hopes while our toes are still frozen
Back to feet: Izzie suspected she had broken a bone in her foot weeks before on a work trip, and on the descent from Mount Whitney she twisted her ankle agrivating the injury and making both her ankle and foot painfully swollen. She was taking it in her stride, dousing it in the river whenever the opportunity presented itself.
Every turn is a mural, further down the valley we go following the river
After all was said and done, we were all packed up and left out of camp in good spirits. We were in the shade of the morning and only the westerly ridge was lit up by the morning sun, but our cool trail was still in shade. Izzie stopped abruptly in the trail and a deer appeared quickly bounding away. He hopped like a rabbit as if to say “look how easily I am gracefully bounding away, you couldn’t catch me if you tried!” It was our first big game sighting of the trip!
Izzie is still all smiles, despite her foot wanting to give up on herWe found the end of the downhill, next the climb to Frog Lake!Someone found a friend! Plump and Happy!
The flora began to change as we pressed further north, we found fragrant sage, twisted currant, and our first lonely fir standing proud and plump! We finally reached the first climb up towards Bullfrog Lake and eventually Kearsage Pass. We both put our stride into low gear and steadily ascended the manzanita, snow brush, fir, and fern lined trail. Creeks leaped across the landscape and pines stood proud and well fed by the plentiful water here.
You can just see the excitement in Izzie’s eyes for the climbFinally getting to see that valley floor from above! Climb climb climb
We finally popped out above the trees as the golden sun shone on the granite faces above. I started to think about how they always depicted Cleopatra, clad in flowing white dresses and weighed down with gold jewelery. I think of the mornings in the Sierra with white granite faces clad in beautiful golden sunlight. It’s nothing less than magical!
Had to stop for a photo op, and some air!Only 3.5 more to Kearsarge!!!Bullfrog Lake! Woot, first big climb done! One more to the pass!
We finally reached Bullfrog Lake, a beautiful blue teal with healthy green algae at its rim. We climbed up and past Kearsarge lake and the cold seemed to intensify as we passed treeline and the blustering wind picked up. We plodded slowly up the chunky granite switchbacks until finally we took the pass!
Mountains guard the lush green lake paradiseOnward and upwards!Kearsarge Pinnacles looking rugged in the backdrop!Kearsarge Pass, finally in sight!Made it, woot!!!!!Izzie with he stoke on 12! All down hill from here for the day!
We popped over the ridge and the wind seemed to subside, we could see hikers speckled across the winding trail below until it disappeared into the pines. We could see a few beautifully clear lakes and hoped to soon be at their shores. Hikers seemed to spring up like weeds, we would pause and chat, seeing day hikers, PCTers, fishermen, mountaineers, weekend loop backpackers, all sorts with their own story to tell. We finally found Maverick Lake and set up out tent for the night.
Big Pothole Lake, cooking crisp and cool! Anyone for a dip?!Gilbert Lake, just before to drop to Onion Valley Trailhead
With Izzie’s foot being a nuisance, we decided to have her guard our gear while I hitched into town, grabbed our resupply, hitched back to the trailhead, and hiked back up to the lake in time for dinner (no easy task when you’re counting on the humanity of others, but I had faith!). With an almost empty pack I bombed down the trail! I would see a cascading waterfall, hear the buzz of a cicada, and finally a glimpse of the road leading to the Onion Valley Trailhead. I was stoked and pressed on briskly!
Indian paintbrush, snowbrush, and short scrub bushes lined the trail as I descended. I was soon at the parking lot, standing at the end with a big smile and a thumb out, hoping for the best in my stylish hawaiian shorts. It was only 10 minutes or so before I was picked up! A kind fellow who turned out to be an ex sheriff who loved the Sierras and jammed to some light Christian rock in the background of our hitch banter. We soon got to Mount Williamson Hotel and I quickly grabbed our resupply of 7 days of food for two and dumped it into my empty pack . . . . needless to say, I was laden down.
Down down we go into the warm desert below!Would ya look at that?! Just look at it!
I got a ride from one of the shuttle guys who worked at the hotel and was (to my amazement) back to the trailhead at almost 3:00 pm! As soon as I stepped out of Doug’s shiny new Toyota Tacoma, I met Workout and Goldie, a couple trekking for 3.5 months on the PCT. We chatted on and soon figured out they were both biologists and I insisted they stop off for a quick break from the Kearsarge climb at Maverick Lake to meet Izzie and chat about fish and conservation. They led out like a couple of bats out of hell! That’s what happens when you have your trail legs on you!
New Friends, Goldie and Workout!
Switcher after switcher I just mainly tried to hold onto the send train and hoped I wouldn’t fall behind! We were soon at the lake after some aggressive uphill, hanging out, having a snack, while the chat of America’s fish future was discussed. I sat back quiet while the 3 bantered on. Soon they decided to press on and we made dinner, completed our required stretches, and found ourselves back in the tent, hiding from the cold wind and winding down for the night with some warm curry and a cozy sleeping bag. Another great day on the trail!
Cheers friends!
Hike Stats
Miles: 13.7 Total:
JMT Miles 4 (36.5 – 40.5), Kearsarge Pass Miles 9.7
We woke to birds chirping in the trees as twilight gleamed its first light. We started up the morning ritual, of making breakfast and packing up. The pink sky watched over our labor and as we finished putting away the last piece of gear, the ridgeline to the west lit up in a golden orange lightshow.
All smiles this morning!
We led out from camp and gleefully headed down valley overlooking gurgling meadow streams where cutthroat trout played. The ridgelines towering above were as varied as the faces of the twisted trees we passed trailside.
Glow in the trees, gotta love watching the sun rise in the morning
The Ranger Station soon came into view on the far side of a beautiful green meadow. A creek bubbled and gurgled in its belly and song birds accompanied its tune. The air was delightfully cool and the sun had just started to reach the valley bottom as we passed by. Soon we turned north where the JMT and PCT meet and we rolled with the rising and falling of its hills as we went.
Trotting alongBeautiful bark
It was interesting to observe the felled trees across the hillside. Thinking about their lifecycles: downed dead trees with branches twisted and broken, thrust from the tree’s body as they fell; to baby trees growing next to their parents, guarded and well fed.
Blanket of snug clouds moving inSomeone found a twin!
The skies had become overcast and grey as the morning pressed on, yet as we we gained a saddle a window of bluebird sky glimmered some hope in the distance. The landscape was a granite boulder field and the trail was a dirty grey, like ground up granite with a flash of dirt, sprinkled with pinecones and bordered by boulders. As we descended towards Wallace Creek we heard a grouse call, a repeated low wooshing like someone swinging an enormous fan through the air. We finally reached the creek, filtered some water and took a moment to try and clean our dirty socks.
Beautiful ridges in the distanceMore ridges to comeHit the plateau, looking for marmots
After the creek crossing, we started a long steady climb, and at the top were rewarded with incredible vistas of a jagged ridgeline in the distance. We vowed to look up its name later, as if to get to know it better. We soon found the valley floor and the beautiful crossing of Wright Creek.
Marmot on the loose!Fat little buggersOnward, towards Forester!
We struck out on another long climb, and we watched as trees slowly started to fade out below until finally finding ourselves on Bighorn Plateau. We kept our eyes peeled for bighorn sheep, but we found only expectant marmots waiting for a feed from a careless traveler. Vistas were abound, Mount Whitney to the southeast, Barnard to the East, Mt Williamson and Tyndall to the northeast, the Kern Ridge to the west and Kings Kern Divide to the north. Moments like this are why we started the trail in the first place, absolutely breathtaking!
Rolling down the the valley floorTime to go back up already?!Forester inching closerI spotted the top of the pass!Gotta love that rich color!
Coming down from our Bighorn Plateau high, we found Tyndall Creek flowing well and a few hikers sitting nearby enjoying a snack. We joined them, chatting about Forester Pass ahead and where they were from. We were interested to hear the Forester pass was clear of snow, although hard to believe, we would soon find out first hand. We pressed on up out of the creek valley and onto an approach plateau just below the pass. Once again trees began to fade out, and ice covered lakes took their place. We climbed slow and steady up to the pass. We must have already begun to adapt to altitude as this ascent was much easier then Whitney the day before! We found no snow on the trail all the way to the saddle, which was very surprising, indicative of the dry winter this past year.
What a happy camper!Glacial LakesNotch marks the spot! Forester Pass just over head
We found some new friends on top of the pass and chatted on about the low snow, the fires to come, and treks present, past, and future. We soon bid farewill and started down the north side of Forester. There were only a few snow patches to be found and the trail was quick and windy.
Made it to the top!And down the other side!
We soon passed that magic 10,000 ft altitude and trees immediately sprung up. The valley we were entering was gorgeous, covered in moss, and cut through with gurgling braided streams. It was stark and beautiful, the tall strong granite mountains above fed the streams, like veins of the valley pumping the lifeblood to all the vegetation and animals here.
Stark beasts watching over the ridgelineOh hey, Friends!All proud and ready for a swim!?So nice to see for miles down valley
We continued north, dropping lower and lower into the valley ahead until reaching Golden Bear Creek. We stopped to top off our water before camp and rest our feet. By now some ominous clouds had moved in and the temperature started to drop rapidly. I didn’t suspect rain, but was perplexed by the strange white cloud looming over the peaks blocking out the sun’s warmth, and the distant peal of thunder.
The lifeblood gift from the peaksDown we go, Mount Standford and Gregory’s Monument in the backgroundLittle lakelettes on the wat downBeautiful views as clouds start to shroud the peaksDropping down into the tree lineStoked and ready for dinner!Clouds roll in hard!
We trekked on and found a gorgeous camp perched just above Golden Bear Creek. The jagged ridgeline lined the sky, beautiful pine trees and granite boulders scattered the landscape. We set up our tent, cooked up our dinner, finished the obligatory pre-dinner stretches before slinking off to our cozy tent in refuge from the cold night that was starting to set in on us. What a magical day.
11:30 pm and the alarm blasted. The trees were all black now with some stars peeping through as I checked the time, nudged Izzie to start getting ready, and fired up the JetBoil for the much needed coffee to shake off the 3 hour nap we took under the forest at Whitney Portal. We were soon sorted, packs on, taking our first steps on the trail guided by our little bubbles of headlamp light. The town of Independence gleamed behind us to the west in the undoubtedly hot valley below, I was glad we were headed up into the alpine.
Backpacks, ready to go for the trip!
Miles went quick to the soundtrack of Lone Pine Creek roaring like a ferocious tiger in the night as we plodded up the canyon. The stars shone high above, blocked out only by the giant stone faces lurking in the dark. The dusty trail slithered through huge foxtail pines, up and around a maze of granite boulders. Sometimes we found millipedes on the trail, or the occasional flash of a mouse all under an amazing blanket of stars.
Sketch of Whitney Portal the night before our start
It was 3pm before we found our first snow patch, and in the dead of night the exhaustion started scratching at the back of our eyes, a stumble here or there shocked us back into alertness for fear of twisting an ankle.
Millipede on the trail
Finally the moon started to rise, and soon behind it the gleam of pink twilight from the rising sun revitalized our steady march. We were soon at the base of the 99 switchbacks and stopped to break out the Jetboil for a round of oatmeal and another instant cup of coffee. We watched the sun rise and stuffed our faces as we looked over the small camp below us, the mirror lake, and the gigantic granite faces coming into light with orange glow.
Sun begins to rise just before the 99 switchbacksSmiling despite the lack of sleep =)Izzie topping out Trail CrestUp up and towards the summit
We were on the move again and as we rose in altitude, so did our heartrates. Even hiking a slow steady pace made you feel your heartbeat in your ears. We slowed, but finally made it to the pass just south of Mount Muir. Peering to the west we were slapped in the face with a sea of granite. It seemed to rise and fall all around us, yet frozen in time. Some great faces looked like a great granite pipe organ, while others looked like a million fingers reaching for heaven.
Checking out the Needles and the summit hut in the distance
We trekked on, stopping at the trail junction where the JMT heads west and the Whitney summit trail continues north to drop a pack and consolidate snacks and water. The trail itself was pretty easy, just some boulders here and there to navigate, but the pressure from the altitude felt immense, always trying to hold back your next step, making every inch an effort. It became a game of “not too much”. Not too much speed, not too much water, not too much heavy breathing, not too much food. Felt like making the wrong move would leave you trailside gasping for air. We pressed on, past the Needles, peering down the gaps between to look down on Owens Valley far below. One step at a time, and finally after what seemed like a long 1.9 miles from the junction, we saw the house at the summit.
One step at a time!
Relieved we had made it, we plopped down, pulled out our sleeping bags for quick warmth, water to rehydrate from the arid alpine, and snacks to fuel our journey down and north, further along the JMT. We had a quick nap, and finally decided our high altitude life had to be put on pause for the next adventure, and we headed down.
Mount Whitney Summit! Highest Point in the Continental USA.
The air was still chilly but the sun warmed you, so we plodded down, back to our packs in hoodies taking in the scenery and admiring the vast granite frozen sea. Little lakelets could be seen from the ridge, and eventually pines down in the lower valleys. We reached our packs, shouldered our belongings and headed north down towards the valley floor.
Let the decent begin!Mount Muir in the background
An oversight we made was not filtering enough water before our Whitney ascent, so now, as we headed down, we began rationing our last liter of water. I had remembered there were creeks below, but every creek bed we came to was dry . . . we plodded on with parched tongues. Soon Guitar Lake came into view and we counted the seconds before we reached its only running stream. We were delighted to see flow, and quickly broke out our bottles for a fill. After the long dry last 3 miles, not to mention the rationing during the miles before, this was a godsend and our stomachs rejoiced.
Dropping down towards Guitar Lake (in the background)I can hear the strings strumming!
We meandered over to Guitar Lake, found a nice spot for lunch and had yet another nap, should I be feeling guilty by now? Nah, we had a midnight start after all! We packed up once again and wandered on down the trail until we found a nice group of foxtail pines, singing birds, and a view of the meadow below. Soon with a tent pitched, dinner made, and stretches done, we crawled into our tent for some much needed rest after a very long day.
Guitar Lake lunch spotOn down the valley, towards campThe pines always impressThe tree colors are stark against the grey sea of granite that surrounds us
I am a big fan of hand written mail. In an attempt to revitalize this age old past time (which is quickly being lost to web-based communications) I’d like to reboot a post card project. Send in post cards with words of inspiration to get others outside and enjoying nature, and I will post selected post cards to the website.
Project Goal: The goal is to inspire others to hit the trail and see new places! Nature can be a much better medication than the couch.
How you get involved: Tell me about yourself! Send in post cards with positive words of inspiration for others to get outside. Tell me your story, tell me about your favorite adventure, tell me what makes you keep climbing, hiking, kayaking, or however you move through nature. Send in your wishes for friends or family to get outside, tell me about an adventure you hope to do in the future. Post your real name, trail name, or leave it anonymous, anything goes, just be creative!
The Re-Post: I will select a few post cards every month to be displayed on the Trail Post tab of the GoatManMike.com home page. I look forward to receiving your trail posts!
New Address: P.O. Box 1729 Flagstaff AZ 86002-1729
There are only so many times that you can drive by an inspiring formation before you finally stop the car and just have to climb it. Smithsonian Butte looms high over Apple Valley in SW Utah and I would see it regularly coming to and from Arizona. Every time I would see it, I would just stare and wonder what it would be like to climb, what it would be like to stand on the summit. The peak boasts a very loose 5.6 pitch of climbing, an easy yet very exposed ledge traverse, and a few low fifth class steps and a ton of scrambling and route finding to gain the summit. I finally made it a priority and went for a summit bid on a cold January morning. Here is the account of Izzie’s and my climb.
Smithsonian Butte from the side
Map Overview (Click to enlarge)
Cold and chilly the alarm blasted just before sunrise, and soon after coffee, breakfast, and feet on the ground bundled up we headed for a ridge on the southeast side of the butte. There is no real trail to the mountain so the track is a matter of choosing the best grade to the base of the climb. We side hilled, scrambled up a few cliff breaks, and gained the first step which is guarded by a canyon on the left (west) and a small hill on the right (east) as we headed north towards a low saddle. At first the going was pretty easy as we followed cattle, deer, and bighorn sheep tracks, but soon became side hilling until we finally reached the saddle. Cross country trekking is the best way to describe it, dodging cactus, loose rocks, and ankle twisters and the occasional patch of snow.
Cliff bands just out of the parking area to gain the first cliff band
Scrambling up the cliff breaks
Side hilling when Smithsonian Butte peaks over the ridge line
From the saddle we headed northwest through a cliff break until finally gaining the next step which was riddled with juniper trees and sheep tracks. Skirting the north side of the ridge extending south east from the butte’s exposed cliff faces we trod along through snow patches and broken rock until it was evident that skirting on flat ground would no longer be advantageous. It was time to gain elevation aiming for the most southeast cliffs protruding up from the red earth surrounding. After careful scrambling, picking through cliff bands, we found a line that worked and finally reached the south east end of the butte.
Climbing up from the saddle, finally views of the butte!
Hoof prints and side hilling towards the Butte
We skirted northwest on the base of the north face of the butte carefully trekking as we did to not fall off a drop to the north until finally finding a break where a climbable chute became evident. Still a few hundred feet below the start of the climb, we started slowly working our way up the crumbling and snow covered steps making a few class 3/4 moves, until finally we found a large ledge where we started to rope up. Roped up and ready I scrambled up into the chute which was sandy, loose, and vegetated. The climbing was easy to begin with and I stuffed in cams where I could. I slung a small sandstone column that was the size of my calf. I knocked on the column, hearing a somewhat hollow sound, hoped it would hold in a fall knowing it probably wouldn’t, and kept climbing. Up I went finding a good crack just below the crux of the route that I stuffed a BD#1 cam into . . . I kept moving it around trying to find the best placement, until finally I got the damn thing stuck! Woops, I decided to grab it on the descent, climbed up a sandy ledge which I wiped off and threw down small loose boulders to make room for a foot and mantled over. I slung another questionable sandstone column, and made some sand covered slab moves out and climbers left until finally reaching a small tree belay with left over rope from previous retreats.
Transitioning to the north side of Smithsonian from the SouthEast ridge
Skirting north, finding the 5th class chute
Looking up at the chute from the cliff breaks below
Getting closer!
Climbing 1/2 way up pitch 1
Izzie soon climbed up, confirming that my cam was stuck as hell, and met me at the belay. We were still in the shade of the butte’s north face, so climbing quickly became priority. Up another 15’ and I gained a notch on the south eastern ridgeline just above a large ledge where the airy traverse awaited. Knowing there would be some hella rope drag, but not wanting to make a ton of pitches I climbed on. I traversed the airy ledge, slung a sturdy old juniper, then climbed up 15-20’ to set up a belay on a large ledge on the south side in the sun. “Belay on!” I yelled as Izzie climbed on cleaning all the gear as she went. “Wow, that’s exposed!” she said, rounding the corner and seeing the drop-off. I pulled hard on the rope, pulling it through the rope maze I’d created around the high friction sandstone corner, but soon enough she joined me at the belay.
Traverse Pitch (photo borrowed from http://www.13ergirl.com/smithsonian/smithsonian.html)
Traverse Pitch (photo borrowed from http://www.13ergirl.com/smithsonian/smithsonian.html)
End of Traverse Pitch
Up and on through 4th class scrambling I found the end of the sustained rope climbing at a large tree where a rap station awaited. That tree would later be used to rappel the loose chimney we’d initially climbed up. We dropped our gear here and scrambled up the loose rising plateau. Skirting north behind a juniper, we found a slot that climbed up to the next ledge. Upon the exit, we found a 5th class scramble with a few loose blocks at the exit. Moving carefully, using a few good foot holds and finally ledges, we exited the 20’ chute with a breath of ease.
Rap Tree – End of the technical climbing
Scramble up from the rap tree, go right, behind the juniper to find a slot which leads to the 5th class chimney
The 4th class slot that leads to the 5th class chute
5th class chimney
Continuing up a few more 4th class breaks we finally saw a small saddle that divided our ridge scramble from the final summit scramble. We down climbed, slowly worked across the loose traverse until looking up towards one loose 4th class and two 5th class obstacles. We climbed tediously on the sandy surfaces, spotting each other, finding the best line until popping out surprised to find a medium tree with webbing and a rap ring at the base. I wished I had a rope with us as I glanced back down the two short but exposed 5th class climbs we’d just ascended. But no matter, we only had 3rd class scrambles between us and the summit! “One, two, three . . . “ we chanted as we simultaneously touched the highest point of the summit with big smiles and hungry stomachs.
4th class and 5th class scrambles to 3rd class summit block
Scramble on, little loose, little sandy
Rap tree, final 3rd class scarmable up to the summit block
Summit block!
Summit!
Walking on edges =)
Views taken in, summit registry signed (There were like 10 summit parties in the last 10 years!), and lunch consumed, we began back the way we came, down climbing all the obstacles carefully and snapping pictures of the golden peaks in the distance.
Rappel number 1
Rappel number 2
Finally we reached the tree where we had dropped our gear and got ready for the rappel. There were 2 raps, 90’ each. The first rap tree had a white 6’ rope tied to it with a rap ring. The sheath was a little sun damaged, but the inner rope core was intact. I rapped off the north side of the ridge, back into the chute to the tree which ended the top of the 1st pitch. I clipped into the rap ring connected to rope left behind at the base of the small tree. The rope there was in similar condition, sun damaged on the outside, but the core was intact. I yelled “Off rope”. Izzie soon rappelled; we collected our rope and set up the next rappel. Down I went, pausing quickly at the stuck cam with my nut tool in hand, scrubbing, pulling, and levering on the lobes until, to my relief, it finally popped free. Finishing the rap, so glad I had my cam, I was soon back on the starting ledge, and Izzie was soon to follow. Back in the butte’s shadow we collected our gear, put on our approach shoes back on (thank god), and quickly retraced our steps, down climbing and side hilling, until finally, 8.5 hours later we were back at the van headed for home. What a great day and an awesome summit!
View back down the valley from the cliff break where the SE ridge reaches away from the butte
As I continue seeking adventure, it seems as though my eyes continue to seek out routes that are more difficult, not just physically and mentally, but also vertically. As climbing continues to steepen, and the difficulty increase, so does the classification of the route. As posting continues I will be mixing in both hiking treks and climbing adventures so I wanted to define a few terms to ensure that my posts are understood . . . “The more you know”.
Pushing further into the unknown – Brendan Lee – AK
Before I jump into definitions I want to touch on a subject that no one likes to talk about: Death. Dying is an inevitable part of life, but its timing can be greatly influenced by the choices and decisions you make with risk management on any adventure. The death zone is considered to be climbing above 30 feet of exposure above the ground. Essentially if you fall, you die from the injuries sustained from such an accident. I will be focusing on deaths due to falls for each route classification as to help define the danger and risk taken in participating in each activity.
Table 1. Route Classifications by Difficulty
Route Classifications
Class 1
Walking an established flat, easy trail, much like a sidewalk.
Class 2
Hiking a steep incline or decline.
Class 3
Scrambling a steep hillside, moderate exposure, and hands are used in climbing.
Class 4
Scrambling up steeper yet, with hands, on exposed faces which the potential of falls that could cause serious or possibly fatal injury. Ropes and rock protection are sometimes used.
Class 5
Free Climbing (Free from Aid): This technical climbing is accomplished using one’s hands and feet on the rock to ascend the route. It is free from any aid such as pulling on a rope or any other protection. Any fall from a Class 5 route would most likely be fatal without protective gear. Rope and rock protection are required.
Class 6
Aid Climbing: This form of technical climbing is used when there is an absence of hand and foot holds for the climber to use to ascend a route. The climber must use aid from pitons, hangers, hooks, and an assortment of gear to ascend the route. Any fall from a Class 6 would most likely be fatal without protective gear. Rope and rock protection are required.
Cartoon Credit: Nathan W Pyle
Class 1-3: Hiking & Easy Scrambling – Most people understand pretty easily Class 1-3 as they have walked, hiked, and scrambled to get to the top of a mountain. There is no gear required for this kind of terrain.
Fall occurrence: Low, Death risk: Low, Gear Required: None.
Annual Deaths: 5 deaths from falls, 35 total (NPS SAR Data)
Class 4: The Most Deadly Class – Scrambling on fourth class can be very dangerous as the scrambling becomes more vertical and exposure to drop-offs becomes inevitable. The problem lies within knowing when to pull out a rope for technical climbing using fifth class techniques and when to go for it with no ropes. Setting up belay stations, using rock protection, and climbing using fifth class techniques is time consuming and sometimes not worth climbing just 10’ of rock. On the other hand, fourth class can be very exposed and a mistake on easy climbing may leave you falling to your death. Because the nature of fourth class is almost always subjective, it can be the most dangerous leaving the safety protection up to the climber’s discretion rather than a requirement.
Down climbing a 4th / low 5th class face on the Sumner Redwall Crack – Grand Canyon NP
Fall occurrence: Med, Death risk: Med-High, Gear Required: None/Subjective.
Annual Deaths: 10 (Rocky Mountain Rescue Group 1998-2011)
Class 5:Free Climbing (Free from Aid) – This technical climbing class involves using your own physical power (hands and feet) to ascend a route or rock face from bottom to top. Due to the fact that this form of climbing would certainly result in death in the event of a fall, certain specific gear is used to prevent injury. This form of climbing requires two climbers, a rope, helmet, harness, belay device, quick draws, and some sort of protection. Protection can be either pre-fixed bolts in the rock (Sport Climbing) or traditional gear that can be later removed once the climb is complete (Trad Climbing). The two climbers consist of a leader and a belayer (aka a follower in multi-pitch climbs), which are connected by a rope tied with a knot into harnesses which each climber wears. The belayer uses a belay device connected to their harness which clamps on the rope between the climbers which allows them to slacken (“give”) or tighten (“take”) in the amount of slack in the rope between the two climbers. The belay device also acts as an assistant or stopper in catching their leader in the event of a fall.
Time lapse of the start and end of Pitch 5 on Zoroaster Temple NE Arete – Grand Canyon NP
The leader’s job is to ascend the route, clipping their end of the rope into protection using a quick draw as they ascend. The belayer’s job is to feed rope through the belay device at the same rate as the leader ascends the wall, leaving just the right amount of slack in the rope. Too little slack and the lead climber is hindered and not able to clip into the protection or ascend further by being held back by the tautness in the rope: this is called “short roping”. Giving out too much slack in the rope could result in the leader hitting the ground or “decking” due to the excess slack in the event of a fall. If the belayer executes their job well, the leader would only fall a distance twice the length of rope above their last piece of protection (plus a little length from rope stretch and from slack in the rope between the two climbers).
Protection types: There are 2 types of rock protection including fixed bolts and traditional gear and the climbing style associated with each is called Sport Climbing or Trad Climbing respectively.
Sport Climbing – Fixed bolts are used when there are not a lot of options to use natural features in the rock to protect the climber with traditional gear. In this case the first ascent climber establishes the route by drilling bolts with hangers attached into the rock at either evenly spaced or hard portions of the route where a fall could occur, to protect the climber from falling. As the leader climbs they use quick-draws to clip one end into these permanent hangers to connect the other end to their climbing rope.
Quick-draw Bolt & Hanger
Clipping a rope into a bolted hanger with a quick-draw
Trad Climbing – Traditional gear utilizes natural features in the rock to create a temporary anchor point that can later be removed by the follower. Traditional gear includes a variety of both passive and active gear. Passive gear such as nuts, monkey fists, and slings has no moving parts and is put into place to fit naturally occurring rock features. Active protection includes cams, ball nuts, big bros, and other pieces of equipment that have moving parts i.e. spring loaded lobes that expand into naturally formed features. Active gear has a larger range of versatility for different sized cracks in comparison to passive gear. Once put into place, the leader once again uses quick-draws to clip one end into the trad gear and connect the other end through their climbing rope. As you can imagine, carrying both trad gear and quick draws up a route can become very heavy which is why some climbers prefer Sport Climbing to Trad Climbing.
Nuts (passive) and Cams (active) traditional gear
Climbing grades in 5th class are divided by difficulty starting at the easiest 5.1 and going to hardest 5.15. Once the level of 5.10 is achieved the grades are subdivided into 4 more sub-ratings suffixed with letters a,b,c,d respectively increasing with difficulty (Example: 512a is harder than 5.11d). The hardest rock climbing in the world at the moment is a 5.15d (video) which pushes the abilities of the human body to its absolute limit to climb a route free of aid.
Fall occurrence: High, Death risk: Low-Med, Gear Required: Helmet, Harness, Rope, and Rock Protection.
Annual Deaths: 5 (NPS SAR Data)
Class 6:Aid Climbing – Aid climbing comes into play where there are no holds or features that can be used to ascend a route with just your hands and feet. A crack system could shrink too tight to fit your fingers in, however you can still utilize a hook or hanger connected to a webbing ladder which the leader can step up into to ascend the route. The roped climbing techniques from Class 5 climbing are still utilized (lead climber, belayer, rope, harness, helmets, etc), however the protection changes to hangers, hooks, and pitons (protection such as nuts and cams can still be utilized). The leader uses these anchor points to pull on with a ladder system to ascend the route. Instead of only relying on the gear in the case of a fall, it now becomes the vehicle through which the leader climbs. There are 2 types of aid gear, removable and fixed. Gear such as hooks, hangers, nuts, and cams are only temporary anchors and can be removed cleanly. Gear such as pitons and copperheads are hammered into the rock and left behind as a permanent anchor point. Unlike bolts in sport climbing, pitons are like a wedge that are hammered in quickly but are not as reliable in the long term as fixed bolts are.
Pitons
Copperheads
Hooks and hangers
Aid route on Mount Lemmon – Photo Credit: T.C. Bukowski
Aid Climbing grades range from A1 to A5, and from C1 to C5. ‘A’ grades refer to anything that will need a hammer (placing pitons or copperheads), whilst ‘C’ grades are used if the pitch can be climbed without using a hammer, i.e. ‘clean’.
Fall occurrence: High, Death risk: Low-Medium, Gear Required: Helmet, Harness, Rope, and Rock Protection.
Annual Deaths: Included within Class 5 deaths: average of 5 per year (NPS SAR Data)
Table 2. Climbing fatalities by climbing activity (1998–2011) in Boulder Colorado
Activity Type
Number of Fatalities
Un-roped climbing
9 (39%)
Lead fall
5 (21.5%)
Rappelling
3 (13%)
Anchor failure
2 (8.5%)
Rock fall
2 (8.5%)
Mountaineering
2 (8.5%)
Total
23
Exposure: Cliff Edges and Drop-offs – When you hear someone say “That’s an airy traverse” or “It’s an exposed walk” they are referring to the likelihood of coming close to a cliff edge where there are large drop-offs. You can encounter exposure on Class 1-3 pretty often but in most places these edges are protected by handrails to keep everyday hikers safe from going over the edge by accident. Angels Landing in Zion National Park is known for its exposed cliff edges; however you are only on Class 1-3 during this hike. Exposure in Class 4 and 5 climbing are inherent to the classification thus already come with a higher risk of injury when falling from one of these routes.
Exposure on Nankoweap Trail (Class 2/3) – Grand Canyon NP
Exposure on Angels Landing (Class 2/3) – Zion NP
Conclusion: The bottom line here is that it’s up to you to be responsible for your own safety. The level of danger in climbing can be assessed by looking at the likelihood of a fall vs the risk of death if a fall were to occur. As you move into class 4 from class 3 you transition from a low likelihood of a fall to a high likelihood of a fall which may or may not result in death. This uncertainty and the lack of ropes for protection makes this the most deadly class with respect to falls, even though it is not the most physical or mentally difficult climbing. The fact remains that the death is preventable if you rope up when needed.
Most people in the general public are afraid of exposure to heights and drop-offs. It’s that queasy feeling that rises up in our stomachs and send tingles up our spine. It’s our brain telling our body that there is imminent danger and you need to be on high alert! You can make this go away with practice and time. This is how rock climbers, window washers, skyscraper construction workers, and other people in high exposure activities look calm and collected. It doesn’t mean the danger isn’t there, it just means the skills they have developed help decrease the risk of a fall. You can decrease the likelihood of a fall by increasing your rock climbing/scrambling skills thus becoming more comfortable and competent on vertical terrain. However, don’t let your ego and confidence be your only guiding principles, listen to your gut and make smart decisions. Once you do gain competence with climbing skills, rock climbing can be some of the most rewarding, enjoyable, and exhilarating experiences as you play an active role in the relationship of risk and rock.
Be safe, and remember, have a little fun!
Obviously the definitions for the route classifications are only a light overview to understand some of the terms used in my blog posts and are not meant to be an all encompassing document as they only scratch the surface. I also do not include statistics to compare the number of hikers vs climbers in relation to falls in the mindset that any fatality is unacceptable. There are so many other topics that could be touched on here: Free Soloing, Rope Soloing, Ice Climbing, Bouldering, etc but that’s for a different discussion.
Back country route finding skills are critical in finding your way through the mountains safely on less traveled paths. Most trails are well maintained and obvious, but as you venture further into the unknown, the skills required keeping you safe change. It’s not just about mindlessly clicking along at 3mph, keeping on trail and only monitoring your water and food. Routes as opposed to trails can be faint, unpredictable, and hard to follow. Good route finding involves proper research, looking at maps and GPX tracks, noticing signs of foot travel, locating cairn markers, and self rescue.
Before I jump into the meat of it, why care? Why not tread wherever you like?! Good route finding not only keeps you safe and on track, but also saves the plants and animals in the region from unnecessary harm. Some landscapes take a long time to recover once trampled. By trampling on desert soil crust (which is alive), and stepping on plants native animal species rely on, both set precedence for future trekkers to follow in your footsteps and cause lasting damage that may have a farther reach than you think. Sometimes off trailing is warranted, but just try to tread lightly and think about the lasting impact your footsteps have on a landscape and its inhabitants.
Research and Planning
Do some research before you go. See if anyone has completed your track before, and if so read about the hard to navigate areas and study them well. Look at topo maps, make a track, understand possible cliff drop-offs, dead ends, and places that could be dangerous to foot traffic or places where it could be easy to get turned around. For some more rugged tracks where hitting the right notch in a ridge line is important, pictures of the route can be helpful, especially in climbing or scrambling routes.
Also in your research, be sure to understand the land ownership. Are there any restrictions? Special permits? Trespassing laws? Are you trekking on National Forest, National Park, National Monument, BLM, State, Private, State Land, or Indian Reservation? Each land ownership comes with different rules and regulations you can reach out to the appropriate administrator (Private land owner, Indian Affairs Committee, National Park Back country Office, BLM Office, etc) in the area to make sure you are legal in your venture. Be sure to know what you are getting into before you go.
Example: Here is a photo from a trip report on Mt Williamson which gives a visual line of the approach for the summit. This can be crucial info in safely finding your way to the top!
Mt Williamson Approach
Back country Permits for the GCNP
GPS Tracks + Maps
Always carry two forms of navigation (GPS + maps or pictures of your route). Global Positioning Systems (GPS) can be very helpful in following your intended path; however you must be able to not completely rely on them. A GPS track (GPX is the file type) is only meant to get you in the general vicinity and it’s up to you to find the path and follow it. GPS track drawn improperly can also lead you off cliff sides and over untrackable terrain, so be careful when creating them. There are a number of devices for using GPS tracks such as Garmin and even phone Apps, such as LocusPro. If you are using your GPS you should have a paper map and compass as your secondary for any trek.
CalTopo is a great resource for manually drawing GPX tracks with almost any map layer you would like. It also has land ownership layers so you can understand the regulations of the area you plan to trek in.
Reading the Route
Being able to read the signs of a route are critical to following the path. Patted down grass, broken tree limbs, compacted down dirt, dirt smudges from feet on rock faces, shiny tree limbs or rock features from continual contact with sweaty hands, vee shaped indents in a riverbank, obvious notches or breaks in a ridgeline, slight discoloration of the ground in contrast to its surroundings… seeing that path of least resistance across a landscape can guide your way. The more you practice these techniques, the better you get at reading landscape like a book and keeping yourself on track. Remember that not every track may be your route, for example natural washouts from water runoff and animal tracks will leave an imprint on a landscape, but doesn’t necessarily mean they are the right path. Think of this like practicing to be a tracker, read the signs, know the way. Some signs can be very obvious, like a cairn.
Sometimes faint goat tracks can be used to turn into trails
Here are a few examples of signs that you’re on the right track: indents in the rocks, impressions in the dirt, even spray paint from an old Via Ferrata route, and of course cairns.
The Cairn Controversy
A cairn is a small rock stack that someone left behind like a breadcrumb trail to help guide future trekkers to find their way. The challenge here becomes when a cairn violates leave no trace, and instead of being a useful tool to guide trekkers through a route, it takes away from experiencing nature. Cairns are not needed on very established trails where is it very obvious where to go and are trekked by thousands of people per year. Establishing a cairn on a well marked trail is discouraged by all the park services across the states, and even though they can be pretty, they aren’t necessary. The exception here is when you are traveling on a route, not a trail, and sometimes cairns can be critical in saving a life, keeping trekkers on route and keeping them from getting lost.
Cairns getting out of hand
Self Rescue – Getting Lost in the Backcountry
Now you’ve done your research, know the general neighborhood of where you are going, let’s start trekking! The biggest challenge sometimes is when you have lost the trail and there is no more sign of it. Your padded grass, cairns, and any sign of a route have all vanished leaving you in wonder of where to go. There is a simple solution to fix this.
TURN BACK. This very simple rule has saved me so many times. Most people want to push forward and heroically find the path once again. Save yourself a lot of trouble and just turn around and go back the way you came until you find the last notable sign (like a cairn) that you are on route. Start searching for the next sign and often you will find where you went wrong and get back on the right track. If you see that many people have made the same mistake you have (by show of footprints), sometimes it’s good to barricade off the side trek with a rock line or sticks to ensure future trekkers don’t make the same mistake. Before you do this, be absolutely sure that what you are blocking off isn’t another track.
In the worst of cases and you are utterly lost and your maps and GPS navigation have failed you, you can rely on a SPOT tracker, InReach, or other forms of signals to bring rescuers to your aid. Surviving in the wild is a different discussion all together.Conclusions
Be smart, plan your trek, and understand the requirements of the journey you’re about to embark on. Watch for trail signs, use your intuition, stay on track, and make good judgment when boldly going into the unknown. Stays safe out there guys, and never stop exploring!
Zion has had a tough spring. The rain has been constant; the snow has capped the orange cream sandstone peaks more times and later in the season than any local has seen for quite a while. The Virgin is rushing too high for the Narrows to open, rock falls closed Observation Point, and road closures have kept visitors from Kolob Canyon. But, there are more options to this place than the highlighted dotted lines on the visitor center maps. This account is about the ascent of one of those routes.
Just after this sign you will find the climbers trail which leads you to the start of the route.
Here’s a little back story: during the height of putting up Via Ferrata routes across the United States, Zion was no different. Completed in 1924, the park encouraged people to ascend the 2600 ft from the canyon floor to the top of Lady Mountain. After having to save several weary hikers, Zion finally abandoned the route in the 60s, taking down the cables, and cutting most of the bolts. But the route still exists as a fun, adventurous mountaineering route. It’s definitely worth the time to get spectacular views of the canyon from a different perspective, and takes you well away from the hoards of tourists on more conventional trails.
Start of the route!
Scramble on!
People may give you funny looks as you climb on the Zion Shuttle bus with a harness and helmet strapped to your daypack, but just a 30m gym rope and a few cams (Black Diamond 0.75, 1, 2, 3) is all you need for this adventure. The shuttle will navigate up canyon while the towering walls keep watch and the doors open and you get off at the Zion Lodge stopHead for Emerald Pools, just after crossing the Virgin River Bridge, turn left, away from the crowds and up the closed Kayaenta trail. They are working on the closure; it’s coming along and they’re doing good work. Go up the switchbacks and pass the pour offs until taking a brief moment at a sign documenting a rock fall across the canyon. Take a moment and take in the views, check out the river rolling through constantly forming the canyon around you. Don’t worry, the whole climb ahead of you will still be there after your break.
Moki steps!
Slight exposure =)
Now walk about 100 ft and find the climbers trail (it’s actually well beaten and thecairns makring its departure from the main trail may or may not be still there) on your left, hike up, trekking on, switchback after switchback, until finally you find a vertical rock face. There will be a yellow bubble with a spray painted arrow pointing up marking the start of your ascent. Take the class 3/4 up before taking a switchback to an exposed face with moki steps cut in. Scramble on (or rope up if you’re nervous), but it soon turns back to class 2/3 as it continues going up and up. Just follow the trail marked with spray paint and a few faint footprints until finally you find a short low class 5 section heading into a chimney. Rope up and place a couple of cams to protect your ascent from a 60’ drop below. It’s pretty mellow, I led it all with my tennis shoes. You can protect your second from an old but sturdy Via Ferrata bolt at the top, making for an easy belay.
Getting good views!
Yeah, that’s right, leading in my Nike’s
Coming up the 5th class chute!
Hike on up a bit until faced with a couple of slopey Moki steps. It’s a weird start but the Moki steps get better as you go up. From here it’s a pretty easy-to-follow hike up to incredible views of the canyon. Some may want to rope up here, your choice. You’ll soon be skirting a small ledge westward following a footpath until finally needing to ascend north again. Up and on you go on a sandy slim ledge, it’s the only way to go that isn’t class 5. Soon you’ll come to a bulging sandstone face with a bolt at the bottom. This is your second class 5 rope-up point. Sure you can solo it, but who wants to make a small mistake in tennis shoes only half way to your goal?! After belaying your second over this short 20’ climb let the hiking continue. Switchbacking, scrambling, and finally you get spat into the final chute. You’ll know it when you get there!
Traverse on a nice thin edge!
Climbing up the 2nd 5th class obstacle, Graham, all smiles!
Up and up we go!!
Stellar views of the park!
Old cut bolts!
Start climbing into the chute, after about 20’ look to your left and find a small hidden climbers’ trail that ascends the left side of the canyon near some tree roots. Do not stay in the bottom of obvious chute get on the wall on climbers left. Without this trail you’ll get off route and have to do some weird sloped traversing from a tree belay to get back on (I speak from experience, we found the easier trail on our way down). Once past this obstacle, youll find a few via Ferratta bolts bent over on your left side. Just keep on up the canyon past a growing tree and a fallen dead tree until finally exiting climbers’ right on a sandy short scramble.
The final chute is just around the corner!
Final chute before the topout
Up up and away!
From here use your route finding skills up and through the short scrub and sandy scrambles until finally popping out on the ridgeline. The views are absolutely incredible. You realize the left cliffs of Zion Canyon are only a sliver of land that divides the canyon to the north. Keep following the trail to the north east until finally the true summit comes into sight across a ravine. Just follow the trail headed northward until finally scrambling up some easy class 3 short moves to the summit plateau. A short walk will soon blast you with incredible 360° views and a little taste of accomplishment after your fun 3 hour ascent (we took our time). Enjoy the summit and the copper plate pointing out the buttes in the distance. Take it all in along with your lunch before heading back down the trail you ascended back to the shuttle.
Izzie, proud after topping out!
Gotta love some fun features!
Which way do we go again?!
Topout baby! Such a cool plaque highlighting the different points in the park!
Views form the top! (click to enlarge)
We rappelled in 4 places:
1) Down the final chute at a bent over Via Ferrata Bolt
2) Down the 2nd class 5 sandy bulge
3) Down the 2nd set (if counting from the bottom up) of Moki Steps
Headphones can be a lifesaver out on the PCT (no brainer right?). Get a set that has a mic so you can call and walk at the sametime if need be. When are these bad boys crucial?
Sleeping – Key item here, especially when there are 70 mph winds, or if you’re sleeping under the I-10 w a recurring 2 hour train schedule. I sleep trained myself by listening to the same 4 songs every night, within 5 mins sleeping like a baby. While hiking, I rocked just 1 earbud in at a time to keep my ear our for other hikers, cars, nature.
Music/Audio Books – Keeps you going through the low energy times
Calling home, to a hostel, or occasional pizza/beer delivery.
2) Micro USB to your phone model Converter
Surprisingly handy for swapping your phone w your other electronics for charging
Instead of 2 seperate cables, bring an end adapter to fit your Micro USB end.
3) Leuko Tape
Ditch the duct tape for foot care, this stuff sticks for days even when wet.
Foot care – cover warm spots before they are blisters, cover blisters to keep them from getting worse after you drain them
Cuts – Cover up your cuts w Triple anti-bacterial, gause, and leuko!
Holding things together
4) Needle, Thread, and Floss
Talk about gear repair, this is essential to keeping you from getting shut down mid-hike. I blew out my Altras in the Sierras, but kept my shoes running with a little floss.
Gear Repair – Sew just about anything up, pack, shirt, shoes, hat
Shoe Repair – Won’t be a permanent fix, but it’ll keep you going!
Clean them teethers, you’ll need that smile for your hitches!
Click to enlarge, you can see my sewing work on the tips of a few of my shoes!
5) A&D Ointment or Body Glide
Let’s face it, you’re going to chafe out there at some point. Be prepared! Chafing could turn from an irritant to an infection, to a real problem, so keep them cheeks greased!
I blogged every single night on the PCT. Alright, I admit I did miss a night or two. But more or less, for 147 days, I blogged for half an hour in my tent after everyone else around me was snoozing. The key to blogging on the trail is having the right tool!
The one item that allowed me to blog every night was a foldable wireless BlueTooth keyboard. I searched all over and settled on this gem that weighed a whopping 6oz. If you dropped the carrying case (that doubles as a phone stand) around it, you would get it down to 4oz.
I chose the first one below to use on the PCT for the weight and price point. I have included a couple other lightweight options that I found in my search.
This was a LIFESAVER and turned me from a T-Rex thumb pressing caveman, to a blog crushing efficient machine. So if you are considering blogging most days on the trail, consider this tool to change your game! Break free from the Thumb War!
Broken free of the thumb war by the keyboard, I was unstoppable!
Making the drive from Phoenix, AZ to Southern Utah, it’s hard not to get lost in the gorgeous landscapes along the roadside. If you pay attention to more than the traffic and the magnificent rock, you’ll start to notice the Native American culture glimpse back at you.
The deserted truck stops, empty jewelry stands, and long abandoned broken down roadside trailers. This is a shimmer of a dead dream, or the crumbs of a forgotten life. No matter how you look at Native Americans today, it’s a sad sight to see.
A people who were driven west, lost an all out war, and nearly eradicated to extinction. The meth epidemic, the diabetes, or alcoholism are continuing to diminish the remaining numbers.
Someone out there is fed up, standing up, and making themselves heard, even if it’s from a faint cry of roadside graffiti. A stellar artist is wrapping abandoned houses and speaking from an isolated culture. Showing intimate images of family and friends in everyday settings, giving the passers by a glimpse into what Native American culture is.
They are also pulling no punches against coal companies and uranium miners coming onto native lands and taking from the soil at what I can assume is on the same level of cheapness that it took for America to obtain the Louisiana purchase from the French . . .
At any rate, the images are undeniably powerful. So the next time you’re cruising along with a soda in hand and your cigarette hanging out of your open window in this beautiful landscape, take a closer look. Some people are speaking, if you are willing to listen.
Coming to you from the: Explore Your Backyard Series
This past weekend Izzie and I drove up to Cedar Breaks National Historic Monument, which we refer to as the mini Bryce Canyon. It is a stellar place to visit! It had sick views and hoodoos to go all around. There are a few rim trails that are pretty easy. Unfortunately there are no legal trails that go through the heart of the National Monument. But don’t fret; there is a stellar circumference trail we discovered that can take you through some stunning diverse landscapes.
Trail: Rattlesnake Creek Trail to Potato Hollow Trail Loop.
Length: Approx 22.2 miles round trip (with road walking)
Other options: Shuttle Bike/Car at Blowhard Mountain or at bottom of Ashdown Gorge
We woke early, to a snow covered plain at the Rattlesnake Trailhead and proceeded to dive right in. Immediately you enter the woods and can see faint views of Cedar Breaks through the trees. Take the quick off-trail side trip and snap some great pics of the park from the rim. The trail then dives down through the forest, through pines, aspen and open plains, into Rattlesnake Creek where you skirt a deep gorge and are finally spat into Ashdown Creek, the river that forms it. Take the sidetrek down the gorge, trust me, you won’t regret it!
Snow on the ground . . . so glad I brought my trailrunners!!
At the bottom of Ashdown Creek about to walk into the gorge
The gorge!
Signs of frozen water in the mud!
Just stellar views in the gorge!
Aw that sucks little fella!
Hiking back out, seeing Cedar Breaks and the snow to come!
Beautiful Ashdown Gorge!
Beautiful Ashdown Gorge!
Izzie and the Gorge!
Hoovin on!
Fluffy goodness!
Gotta love the colors here!
I see snow!
Alright . . . lil too much snow!
Once you’re done, tighten up those hiking boot laces and dig hard for the haul out from the bottom up Potato Hollow back up to the rim! Great views once again! Potato is definitely the less traveled of the two but still a beautiful trek. Haul back up through the shrubs, plains, aspen, and pines and pop out at two large communication spheres. From here you can walk the road back, or set up a car shuttle, drop a bike if you’re rockin solo, whatever your pleasure.
Hiking up Potato Hallow (Click to enlarge)
Had your fill of Cedar Breaks on Saturday but aren’t ready to go home?
Cedar Breaks from the Overlook (Click to enlarge)
The surrounding area is pretty sweet too. There are a ton of lava fields, lava tubes (caves) and lakes to explore! Apparently this area has a big snowmobiling community in the winter, but it’s still pretty great to explore on foot. We took the opportunity to check out the following caves and local hikes:
This lava tube cave is really cool; bring some clothes you don’t mind getting dirty, a helmet, a headlamp and a strong sense of adventure! There are a bunch of different tunnels to choose from (some are closed off in the winter due to hibernating bats). I like taking a chamber as far as you can go to its terminus before turning around and trying the next path. It isn’t a huge cave (2,100 feet of passage, some of which is closed), but we had fun exploring and finding all the hidden entrances.
This guy is definitely less traveled, but is a really cool lava tube cave none less. It drops down with a wooden tree ladder to begin with and has 2 large rooms that you can stand in. Poke around, it’s a little wet, but really cool, plus we found a bat just chilling!
This was the smallest of our finds and seemed like it was regularly frequented, still cool to see though.
Navajo Lake:
Cascade Falls: 2.4 miles round trip ~ headwaters of the Virgin River
Pretty chill hiking in the pines shows off the beautiful forest to the south and a few more Bryce like formation areas. Bright orange and white hoodoos poke out of the side of the mountain as if it were cut away like a multilayered cake. When we went there was no water flowing from the mouth of the entrance. However, this just gave us another opportunity to go caving! The limestone walls of the cavern that guides the headwaters of the Virgin River was certainly cool to see! It was a little wet, but well worth the effort!
Flow meter for the Virgin's North Fork Headwaters
Nice gage, man this thing runs @ 2' regularly, holy wow!
Deeper into the abyss!
Still with me?! Haha heck yeah!
The entrance from the overlook, lil scrambley to get in, watch them toes!
Planning for weather can be a challenge, especially when you’re looking at a 5 month long journey on the PCT. To simplify this problem, I have broken the trail up into sections with a similar climate. Those sections are: The Desert, Sierra Mountains, Northern Cali/Oregon, and Washington. Each has their own climate and weather challenges.
Note: I hiked North Bound (NoBo) from mid-April (4.14.18) to early-September (9.7.18).
The Desert: Campo (mile 0) – Kennedy Meadows South (mile 709). Most people think it’s dry and hot. Depending on when you are hiking there, this can be true, however it can also be frigidly cold! The biggest concerns in this section are sun protection and finding water! It can get cold at night, especially early in the season (I saw a night with 19 degrees F on Mount Laguna on my 3rd day and it snowed on Mt San Jacinto). I saw 1 day of rain (2 hours total), and it only went below freezing at night twice.
Leave at home: Snow Gear, Rain Pants, BearCan
Bring with you: Rain Jacket (always carry just in case, can double as extra warm layer), Sun Protection – Hat, Sunscreen, Umbrella*, Solar Panel*, Extra Water Reservoirs (enough to carry 6 liters max)
The Sierras: Kennedy Meadows South (mile 702) – South Lake Tahoe (mile 1090). Welcome to the big mountains! You will be traveling at 10,000 ft on average for quite a while. The sun is still intense at high elevations so don’t send that hat home yet. The biggest concern in this section is going over the snow covered passes. Rule of thumb: June 1st is the earliest you should head north of Kennedy Meadows South. I had all my snow gear sent to me at Kennedy Meadows South plus some required food protection. Bear canisters are required between Kennedy Meadows South (mile 702) and Sonora Pass (mile 1017). The mosquitoes are SEVERELY horrible north of Tuolumne Meadows so bring a bug net (I just used my buff) and bug spray (I went without). Warning: DEET will eat your gear if you accidentally spill it on yourself. DEET is straight poison but there are alternatives to it (like Repel); this all a personal call. They finally let up a bit as you near Sonora Pass. I never saw rain, nights were below freezing only 3-4 times.
Leave at home: Extra water reservoirs (only really need 2-4 liter capacity, water is abundant!)
Bring with you: Rain Jacket (always have just in case, can double as extra warm layer), BearCan (required), Ice Axe, Microspikes, Rain Pants (wore these when it was really cold), Wool Beanie, Wool Gloves (it’s cold as crap in the mornings!), Bug Net*, Insect Repellent*
Northern Cali + Oregon: South Lake Tahoe (mile 1090) – Cascade Locks (mile 2147). Congrats! You made it through the Sierras, now it’s time to plunge into the forest in Nor-Cal. Surprisingly the highest temperatures I saw on trail (in the 100s) were in Nor-Cali near Hat Creek Rim. People were so warm they sent their sleeping bags home and got quilts (I troopered through with my 1 bag cause it’s all I’ve got!). I sent home all my snow gear from South Lake Tahoe in my Bearcan (11$ as opposed to 25$ at North Kennedy Meadows). Bear canisters are required in Lassen Volcanic National Park (mile 1343-1363). You can avoid the Lassen requirement by hiking through the area in 1 day (it’s 20 miles and you’ll be cranking by mile 1343). You’ll start to get near forest fire season by this point. I fought the smoke by covering my face with a buff, others opted for the facemask (your choice). Oregon had more relaxed accumulated elevation gain so you’ll be cranking through the whole state of OR in just 2-3 weeks. Never saw rain, nights were only in the 30s once in Oregon at higher elevations.
Leave at home: BearCan, Ice Axe, Microspikes, Rain Pants, Solar Panel (not enough light – tree coverage from forest hiking).
Bring with you: Rain Jacket (always have just in case, can double as extra warm layer), Extra Water Reservoirs (4-5 liter capacity is good as there are some dry sections), Sun Protection – Hat, Sunscreen, Umbrella (for sun)*
Washington: Cascade Locks (mile 2147) – Canadian Border (mile 2652). Bring on the rain! Now that you have crossed the Bridge of the Gods, it’s time to get used to big elevation gain again. Washington was true to its reputation, with rain and forest fires. Send yourself your rain pants again and be prepared to be wet. Hopefully the forest fires are dying down with the onset of rain but you’ll still have some trail closures, it’s just how it goes.
Leave at home: BearCan, Ice Axe, Microspikes, Solar Panel (not enough light – tree coverage form forest hiking),
Bring with you: Rain Jacket, Rain Pants, Reservoirs (2-4 liter capacity is all you’ll need), Umbrella (for rain)*
How I planned my Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) hike in 4 weeks:
From Start to Finish!
I know this may sound crazy, but I didn’t fully make the decision to leave my job and hike the PCT until just 4 weeks before I set foot on trail. I turned in my 2 week resignation at work on March 21st and started walking on April 14th. Some people take years to plan for such a journey.
I had been dreaming of hiking the trail “one day” and enjoyed many weekend backpacking treks, so I wasn’t going in without past experience. I had to plan all the logistics, budget, schedule, food pickups, trail maps, buying new gear, research special area restrictions (bear cans), not to mention entertaining my sister who came into town for a week just before I left, then pack up everything I own and put it into storage, find a way to get to the southern terminus, all the while attempting to keep up some level of fitness. Through that entire whirlwind, here is how I did it:
Step 0: Save every penny you can! There are a ton of costs that you don’t think about until you really start gathering all the little things together. A good rule of thumb is 1000$/month, that is of course, after getting all your gear. The 1000$ covers food, Uber rides, Trail Angel donations, hotel rooms, rides across the lake to VVR, replacing those worn out shoes on trail, and of course that juicy burger and beer in town you have been dreaming about all week. It’s good to acquire your gear over time so your not hit with the full cost at once and you have time to properly test it out. Also remember to factor in insurance (if you go that route), price of flights/rides there and back, and the price of storing your stuff back home.
Step 1: Choose NoBo (North Bound) or SoBo (South Bound) and get a permit – They are two totally different experiences and you have to take that into account when choosing which direction you will go. I chose NoBo for schedule and got my permit early because I knew it was possible that this was my year! Obtain permits here: https://www.pcta.org/discover-the-trail/permits/pct-long-distance-permit/
Click for NoBo, SoBo, and FlipFlop Details
NoBo’ers:
High trail population – Lots of people mean a certain level of social interaction and sharing resources like campsites or hostels. The high population also comes with the high support (trail angels) which means water caches, rides to town, and free lodging with a breakfast from time to time. Your personality type or schedule can make the decision for you!
Weather windows – You start in the desert when it’s nice and cool but you need to move fast enough to where you don’t get burned by extremely high temps as spring turns to summer. People night hike the low elevations, carry lots of water, and hope the rattlers leave them be. The first “gate” (or schedule impact) you get to is the Sierra Mountains at Kennedy Meadows South (rule of thumb says you shouldn’t enter the Sierras until June 1st). You want to wait to enter the high mountains until the high levels of snow melt enough for travelable passes. In high snow years this can be dangerous and really slow you down forcing you to get off the trail and resupply due to a slower than estimated pace (if you don’t think this is a big deal just Google PCT post holing, and imagine doing that all day).
Fire danger – Fires are always a possibility in mid to late summer, and as you head north, northern Cali, Oregon, and Washington are prone to catching blaze. This is simply a roll of the dice and some people flip-flop (definition below) to avoid the fires.
Snow (again) – Your mission at the end is to get to Canada before the snow starts to set in during late September and early October. If you’re too late, you won’t have the right gear to push the last few miles.
SoBo’ers:
South bounders have all the NoBo problems in reverse. You have to wait for the snow to melt in Washington before you can start (usually July 1st), you are hit with forest fires right off the bat, you need to get out of the Sierras before the snow starts packing back in, and get to the desert and hope it’s not too hot (and there is water left). The population is much less and so is the support.
FlipFlopping:
Flipflopping has means skipping a section and hiking the same section in reverse or another section until the conditions become better (too much snow, fires causing intolerable smoke, ect ect). Example: NoBo’ers who got to the Sierras too early came out at Independence CA, caught a ride to Ashland OR, hiked south back to where they exited and caught a second ride back to Ashland to finish the trail NoBo. This allows the snow to melt while you hike another section. I was lucky enough to not have to resort to this technique.
Step 2: Get to know the trail – Maps & Navigation – The PCT is a pretty beaten easily-followed trail, however there are some junctions that aren’t clearly marked and some Maps or GPS navigation on your phone or full on Garmin GPS would be a good idea. Plus water/camping callouts are by mile marker, so its good to have in conjunction with water reports.
Navigation via GPS: SmartPhone Apps – Search for on your preferred App installer
Guthooks – Upside to this app is it has the trail map plus comments from other app users about campsites and water sources all in 1 place. It is a spoon feeding no work type of app. The downside is that it costs $ (about $26 for the full thruhike in 2018). The only thing I have against the app is that it gives you so much that you don’t really have to talk to other hikers and somewhat takes away from the social experience. (This is the most user friendly and easy app to use)
HalfMile – Pretty basic, has great maps, the trail, and water location. Doesn’t have a ton of camp spots listed past the desert, but it works if you want to go free.
HikerBot – Basic tracking, free
Locus Pro – This one takes some work; it is just a map program (almost any map you would want) that you can load GPX files and waypoints into. I have used this for years and didn’t want to buy a whole app specifically for the PCT, so I just grabbed the tracks and waypoints from the HalfMile website listed above and loaded them up. You have to load cache the map of the area prior to going out. Work, but worth it to me.
Step 3: Food and Water – Congrats you’ve made the plunge and got your permit! Now for the essentials: Food & water. This has everything to do with planning and schedule. You have to estimate your pace, imagine where you will be and what you will need. Everyone has their own dietary needs so I’ll focus on the planning aspect of Food & Water.
Click for Food Planning Details
Food: I started researching and pulled a list of all the resupply points close to the trail (hitches to town 40 miles or less). Once I had my list I planned resupplying every 3-5 days (sometimes longer though special areas like the Sierras where getting in and out is harder), using the mileage I assumed I would be hiking to set my schedule and selected resupply points dependent on convenience and price. (I assumed an average of 15 miles per day in the first month, 20 miles per day after that, 18 miles per day through Sierras, 30 miles per day through Northern Cali/Oregon, 25 miles per day in Washington. I factored in rest days into resupply days so this didn’t affect my average much, only affecting the dates of arrival by adding any non-hike (zero) days).
There are 4 main types of food resupply:
1) Mail yourself food – Set up your boxes before you leave (warning, you may become tired of eating the same thing so try and mix it up) and have a friend/fam send them to you; or you can actually mail yourself food from the trail (find a good store in a larger town and resupply yourself for the next month). Grab a USPS Priority Large box and start stuffing your food in! Here are some instructions for how to send yourself packages:
From:
Enter a return (home) address so it can be sent home if you miss the package for some reason.
To:
Your Name (Name on your ID, post office will ask to see it) C/0 General Delivery
Address: List full address, City, State, the zip code
Please hold for PCT hiker: Name
ETA: DD/MM/YY
2) Buy food in town – Show up and pay whatever prices (sometimes expensive) for whatever they have on hand. Sometimes there is slim pickin’s due to a wave of hikers that come just before you.
3) Mix of the two – I set up 20 boxes before I left and hit up Costco for bulk buying. The rest of my food I bought on trail
4) Hire a company to send you food – I’m sure it can be expensive, but its an option if you don’t want to fool with doing it yourself. Here are some options:TrailSupply, ZeroDayResupply, SonoraPassResupply
Notes on selecting resupply locations:
Convenience: Closer to the trail means a shorter hitch with a stranger as most of your resupplies will be off the trail. Let’s face it; if you are going to these towns (to resupply at a store or pick up your package) you will have to rely on the hospitality and humanity of other people in their strange metal sleighs that move faster than 3mph.
Price and Selection: The smaller the town the smaller the selection and the higher the prices. In the towns where the prices for a packet of tuna is 3$ you may want to send yourself food in a Priority Mail box to avoid these high prices.
Here is my Excel File: I put this together which has all the convenient resupply points and I highlighted the resupply points I selected for my 2018 hike. This is JUST A PLAN/GUIDE! Be flexible, most convenient locations on the left side, my plan is on the right side of the Excel sheet.
Water: Water is pretty simple overall, there are a few ways to get info (see below). My rule of thumb for carrying water is 1 liter of water for every 5 miles hiked. I know here in America we don’t usually go with liters, however most hiking gear for hydration is labeled in liters and the Smartwater bottles I used were 1 liter bottles.
The Water Report can be downloaded onto your smart phone or printed out and carried with you. This tells you locations of all water sources and is updated by hikers via txt or email.
The phone app Guthooks also has live water information. Comments in Guthooks will let you know if there is water at the next source.
Water purification: See Gear Selection Section.
Step 3: Gear Selection – Well now that you’ve decided to leave society for a few months, figured out when you are starting, and where you’re going to stop for food, you need some gear to carry all that crap! Gear is life to people; they BELIEVE in their gear and spend a lot of money on it. That doesn’t mean you can’t go out there with a 70lb external frame pack, it just means you gotta work harder for it! I’ll stick to the basics of what you will need and give you examples of what you can choose, you can do your own selection from there (there is no 1 solution to life!).
Click for Gear Selection Details
Comfort Vs Weight – Every ounce counts! Ultralighters typically go as minimal as possible, whereas some people want to be comfy cozy at the toll of heavier gear. The fact is, the lighter you are; the faster you are. Is this important to you? Everyone has their sweet spot; and it’s a personal call. Do you want your heavy DSLR camera? Want your super comfy blowup sleeping pad? How about an extra pair of socks or underwear when your others are busy drying out after laundry? These are all questions you’ll have to answer yourself, however here are the basics of what you’ll need:
SideNote: Here are my gear lists (includes weight and links) for the whole trail:
Here my gear rational and what I saw others doing on the trail:
Backpack: Your pack needs to fit all your gear, about 5 days of food, and carry anywhere from 2-6 liters of water (6 liters is extreme and you’ll only ever do that a handful of times in the desert). I prefer a pack with hip-belt pockets and side pockets to carry smart water bottles. I chose the EXOS Osprey 58 Liter pack, I already owned it before the trail, and why buy a new pack when I already have a perfectly good one! Here are some packs I saw on trail.
Osprey EXOS 58 Liter BackPack (2014 version [2017 version cut their hipbelt pockets]): Price , Website
Sleeping Bag / Liner / Pillow: The coldest temps you will see on the trail are in the 20s (headed NoBo from mid-April to mid-Sept). I personally love a mummy bag, you can save some weight and get a quilt which cuts out as much weight as possible from some areas which one could argue are “extra”. Side note: quilters sometimes complain of drafts from the bottom where there is a hole from the quilt’s drawstring which when pulled creates a “toebox”. Some people sleep cold and need 10 degree bags with liners in them (even in 30 deg weather); this is all about knowing yourself and your gear. Other considerations include ethically harvested feathers for the down bags, and using synthetic bags if you are worried about being wet. Like I stated, this is all personal preference. Here are some examples of what I saw on trail:
Sleeping Bags/Quilts
Western Mountaineering – 20 Deg Bag: Price , Website
Pillows – It’s comfy, let’s face it, this is a luxury (good sleep was a big priority for me), you could easily use your puffy or town shirt as a pillow.
Shelter/Tent: There are plenty of options out there, most all are expensive! Tarps are really nice on weight because they use your trekking poles to hold them up (downside is they must be staked out properly and a high wind at night could be troublesome). Free standing tents are great but weigh a bit more due to the poles but the upside is they don’t require staking out to stand erect. Bivy or just cowboy camping is another option. Remember it’s all about comfort vs weight. I saw some people carrying 2 man tents because they enjoyed the space, others cowboy camped every night. Here are the tents I saw out there most:
Cooking System: Cold soak or hot meals?! Comfort question once again. I saw many people choking down cold ramen and instant mashed potatoes so they could save themselves a pound of weight going stove less (every ounce counts remember). I’ll let you make your own decisions here, but this is what I saw on trail the most:
McFlurry spoon from mcdonald’s – as a friend puts it, “Fuck paying 20$ for a spoon!”
Clothing: This could be like opening a can of worms, there’s such a HUGE amount of products out there for you to choose from. Here are the basics, carry ONLY what you need. If something wears out or doesn’t seem to be working for you just grab another from a hikerbox or send yourself one. Rule of thumb:
Shirts (x2) – 1 hiking shirt, 1 town shirt. I personally love smartwool to hike in; a lightweight shirt can be good in both heat and cold.
Synthetic can be nice, but eventually the smell just doesn’t seem to get out of the shirt even after a wash.
Wool kicks butt, it can wear down quickly (especially in the shoulders) – Price
Cotton – Leave it at home
Mi- Layer – People LOVE their puffys which is no surprise in chilly weather. Here is what I saw out there:
Pair Socks (x3) – I started with 2, moved to 3 after accidentally losing a pair and getting stuck with just 1 pair for 3 days . . . got athlete’s foot . . .let’s not talk about it. Here is what I saw most on trail:
Shoes – People are crazy for shoes, pick your own religion here. Most people on trail rock trailrunners because they are light (1lb on your feet is equivalent to 5lbs on your back) and they have good breathability which means they dry quickly if they get wet (you will be dousing your shoes in creek crossings especially in the Sierras). Side note, you should plan to go through 5 pairs of trail runners (mine were lasting about 550 miles before the cushion broke down!) This is what I saw most people wearing:
Gators – Keeps the rocks out of your shoes, every time you stop to empty your shoes is time wasted. Light weight option I saw most on trail – Dirty Girl Gators – Website
Hat – Keep that head covered from the sun!
Buff/Handkerchief – Keep that sun off your neck! Wool , Synth
Rain Pants – I only carried these in Sierras and Washington. What I saw on trail:
Shorts (or pants) – I rocked a pair of swimming shorts the whole trail. Dried fast, lightweight, cheap (thanks Goodwill!)
Water Filtration – Sometimes size matters . . . and the longevity! There were mainly 2 filters out there, and then some people just straight up didn’t filter at all! You want good flow rate, but at the same time longevity. Side Note: I ditched my pack bladder and just used Smart Water bottles which I slid into the side pockets of my backpack for easy access. Switching to this system will help you know exactly how much water you have at one time, plus if a bottle gets too beat up you can always swap it out once you get to town.
Sawyer Squeeze – Save yourself the trouble and get the full size version (it lasted me all 2650 miles with filtering every liter I drank). The flow will slow down, but usually not until 400 miles in. The Mini Sawyer quickly loses its flow capability even with back flushing properly (200ish miles). The Sawyer also screws right onto SmartWater bottles which is a plus as the bags that come stock with Sawyer WILL break! Be aware of this, after so many squeezes they will burst near the neck (no one wants to lose a few liters in the desert). I just used a SmartWater bottle as my “squeeze” dirty bag. Price , Website
Katadyn BeFree – Has higher flow than the Sawyer out of the gate, but it starts to slow down after 200 miles. It will still filter – Price , Website
Electronics – It’s going to be hard to let go of electronics at home, but the ones you take on trail need juice. Navigation these days is primarily done with Smartphones. Any camera you would use or other nifty gadgets need to stay charged between towns (don’t forget to charge it up when you are in town).
SmartPhone – Primary use is navigation, then pictures, then internet and social media. Use your juice wisely. I used the Samsung Galaxy 8S+ (water resistant) with a holster that was on my pack’s shoulder strap for quick access. Phone, Holster
Camera – Tons out there, if you want those epic pictures that your smartphone can’t grab and have convinced yourself the weight is worth it, these are some of the cameras I saw on trail:
Bluetooth Keyboard – I blogged every night and this keyboard was the key to making it happen. Without it I would have been reduced to T-Rex thumbing the day’s journey. Price
Special Equipment – A few areas have special requirements, namely, the Sierras and Lassen National Park. Bear canisters are required between Kennedy Meadows South (mile 702) and Sonora Pass (mile 1017) and then again in Lassen Volcanic National Park (mile 1343-1363). You can avoid Lassen requirement by hiking through the area in 1 day (it’s 20 miles and you’ll be cranking by mile 1343). Side Note: I carried my bearcan all the way to South Lake Tahoe because it cost me 11$ to ship home filled with clothes, whereas shipping from Kennedy Meadows North was 25$ full, 20$ empty.
IceAxe – In high snow years you’ll need this to self arrest over the Sierra Mountain Passes (I’ll let YouTube take over on the ‘how to use’). This is what I saw most of:
MicroSpikes – Some years (like 2018) the snow will be melted enough where this is all you need, other years you may need full on crampons. Price
Umbrella – These guys were pretty popular on trail. People would use them for sun protection as well as rain in Washington (NoBo frame of time). Price
First Aid – Last but not least, safety (N.B. I am not a doctor or a professional healthcare provider; consider your own safety needs in first aid)! You would be surprised about how little you actually need to carry. The mentality is to carry enough to take care of minor scrapes, scratches, blisters, sun block, and if it is something more serious you will be coming off trail for treatment anyway.
GPS Unit – if something serious were to happen (rattle snake bite, broken leg, heart attack, anaphylactic shock, ect ect) and you don’t have cell signal, a GPS unit can hail for rescue. Plenty of options out there:
Luko tape – Doubles as bandage gauze cover and for hot spots on your feet to prevent blisters – Price
Thread/Floss and needle – This can be used to pop blisters, dig out cactus needles/thorns, or used to sew up a shoe or pack that is starting to come apart – Price
Salt – sounds strange, but if you start to cramp up and you haven’t had enough salt, throw some in your mouth.
Sunblock – Take care of that skin kids!
Banana Boat Sunsceen Stick – The stick is great because you don’t have to spread sunscreen all over your body w your dirty hands (cause god knows where those have been!) – Price
Hand Sanitizer – No sinks out there, clean your hands (also never handshake, always fistbump! Fewer germs spread that way)! Price
Ibuprofin – Carry a small bottle, pretty handy for headaches and annoying body aches.
Toiletries – Lets face it everybody goes. Grab your essentials: Toilet Paper, Hand Sanitizer, Tooth Paste, Tooth Brush (yeah thats right cut that bad boy in half so save a few ounces!), and of course WetWipes. The PCTA requests that you pack ALL your TP out, so remember to have a small baggy handy for this. Sanitize them hands afterwards! Its a dirty job, but someones gotta do it!
Step 4: Getting to the trailhead and Trail Angels – Now that you’ve done all the hard work to make sure you have what you need to survive for 4-5 months, you need to get to the trail and start walking!
Click for Trail Angels and Trailhead Logistics
Hitching time!
Trail Angels – These are people who have either hiked the PCT in some way shape or form or really love the trail and want to support the hikers attempting the cross country trek. They will give you refuge from the storm in their homes, rides to/from trailheads, feed you, give you trailmagic, receive packages for you at their home, and all around turn your day. There is a list of trail angels online: http://trailangellist.org/pacific-crest-trail/
Getting to/from the Southern Terminus trailhead:
Scout and Frodo – These 2 trail angels will pick you up from the airport, house you for a day or so, and then get you to the trailhead on your start date (contact them in advance). They are pretty cool. You can do like I did and force a friend to drive you there and hike the first section with you and cook you a big dinner and breakfast on the grill before kicking you out onto the trail like the hiker trash you are!
1) Hike into Canada – Once at Manning Park, take a bus/hitchhike/carpool to get back to the states. You MUST have a PCT Canada entry permit (some people have issues obtaining one if they have have ever had a DUI) to walk into Canada via PCT.
2) Hike back to Hearts Pass – Once back at the pass, throw your thumb out and hitch into Mazama. From Mazama you should be able to hitch over the 20 to Seattle.
Large group accommodating Trail Angel stops: Hiker Heaven, Casa De Luna, Mike’s Place (it’s an experience . . . ), Hiker Town (also an interesting experience . . .), there are a ton of trail angels in town that are on the list that will host you.
Trail Angels are going out of their way because they love the trail and they love you stinky hikers, love them back a little, drop some cash on them if they will let you.
Step 5: Don’t stress and enjoy! Looking back I realized that “the trail provides!” All this “planning” only gets you so far. Remember that life happens while you’re busy making plans. Your schedule will change, you’ll be faster or slower than you originally thought. You’ll meet new friends on the trail, have a shoe blow out on you, loose a pair of socks, have to wait on a post office to open, or wait for a package lost in the mail, or get sidetracked by some sick trailmagic in the middle of nowhere, or perhaps you’ll find a really hospitable town and decide to take an extra zero to really take it in. No matter what, woohsaahhhh it’s all going to work out as it should! Happy trails!
If you guys are interested in prepping for other thru-hikes check out MyOpenCountry’s Thru-Hiking 101 Guide which takes a holistic approach to the big US thru-hikes. Good luck out there!
On the last day of the PCT we arrived to find a large wooden monument that marked the northern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail. There, I said a few words to my friends and fellow trekkers. I was asked to post this for them. It’s one of those “you had to be there” kind of things.
“I want you all to take a journey with me. I want you to use your mind’s eye, think as vividly as you can back to just a few months ago. Come back with me to the Mexican Border and the southern termanis monument.
Think about those brand new kicks, the fresh socks, spick and span pack, and shiney new tent strapped to your pack. Think about that ride to the terminus, the anticipation winding up in your stomach. Think about that very first step into the arid desert.
Think about that first big hill, up and over, dumping down into Lake Morena and that first nights camp. Staring up through your tent into the night sky, marking your first night on trail.
Think about pushing through the desert to those “active explosives in area” signs and feeling a little nervous.
Climbing up to Mount Laguna and the 60 mph winds, 20 degree night, and frozen water pipes in the morning. First full on views of the desert below.
Julian and Mama’s Pie, Scissors Crossing and the huge cache at 3rd gate (Thanks trail angels!).
Stopping off at Mike’s Place for a burrito with a side of machetes and whiskey. Secretly hoping to yourself that your not going to get stabbed that night.
Breakfast at Paradise Bakery. Idyllwild and at its quaintness. Finally dropping weight, slowly climbing up to San Jacinto Peak. Cold as hell, huge smile on, looking north to hot desert and the Gorgonio Mountains.
Dropping down, sleeping under the I10 at Cabazon Pass. Natty light in hand, thinking this is what it means to be homeless.
Pushing on to Big Bear Lake, your first hotel on trail.
Hiking to Hiker Heaven and soon after Agua Dulce. Getting your first real trail angel experience complete with laundry and a ride anywhere you needed.
The 24 challenge to Casa de luna (shh lets keep that on the low)!
The push through the Gorgonios, trying not to get bfed at hiker town, walking the huge LA aqua duct. Thinking about all that water below your feet and not a drop in sight.
Hiking beneath the Air Turbines, finding Tehachapi and some killer BBQ at Red House BBQ.
Fast forward now: Getting your feet under you, finally exiting the desert at Kennedy Meadows south, entering the famous Sierras.
Seeing the snow covered granite wide spread wilderness before you in all its glory. Your first 14er, waking up at 1am, that beautiful sunrise (maybe it was the best sunrise you ever saw).
Forester Pass, Kearsarge Pass, dropping into Bishop, that awesome guys who gave you a 40 mile hitch, and of course Hostel California.
All the passes, Muir was by far the best, the snow the sunrises, the ice cold lakes you jumped in. Man the Sierras really rocked my world.
Northern cali and all its green tunnel goodness, Mt. Shasta, Castle Rocks, the smoke, Seiad Valley and the State of Jefferson. Finally touching that fucking Oregon border! Finally out of California, it only took 3 months!
Ashland, the smoke, my first zero in Oregon, pushing 30s getting full on. Crushing bigger miles. Crater Lake in all its beauty (if you could see it).
Busting through to the Three Sisters, Hiking up to Mt Hood and Timberline Lodge, the smoke in the air but you can still see the beauty.
Finally pushing to PCT days and Cascade Locks, brews with friends you hadn’t seen in months!
Stepping into Washington across that crazy fucking bridge trying not to get hit by passing cars.
Finding the elevation again was back in full force, Trout Lake, Mt Adams, the Goat Rock Wilderness.
Coming down Snowquolumne, Dru Bru (I know you got a beer . . or two), Skykomish, the rain and the 100 mile race, getting dry, seeing the end insight going for it.
Motoring on to Holden and their awesome hospitality, the whole town coming to wave you off in the bus to the Ferry like it was a scene out of some Hallmark movie. Stehekin and their closed off city, the delicious bakery, and of course . . . your last resupply.
Pushing on and up, up and down, down and up again, finally reaching Hearts Pass and the final fire detour.
Hiking down to the creek, packing in your celebratory beer, champagne, smoke, whatever floats your boat, all the way, step by step, to the border.
I want to be the first to say to all of you, congratulations for your achievement. You just walked across America from Mexico to Canada. 2650 miles end to end. You earned every inch, you earned every mile. You and the friends standing next to you now.
Go ahead and open your eyes, and Welcome to Canada!!!”
At 4:30am I woke to see lights outside my tent moving around in the darkness. I wasn’t supposed to be up yet, but my eyes were open and the excitement got the better of me. I was up and out packing up my gear for the day. Pickle was long gone, Pooper packing up, and Sissyphus snoozing away as usual. I staked my tent out for rain, threw on my pack with just food, water, and extra clothes for the day and headed out into the dark.
It wasn’t long before I was at the junction of Rock Creek and started the climb out of the valley back to the true PCT. The trail was chunky and for a good half mile was riddled with downed trees. Climbing over the trees takes time, and slows the pace, but with a light pack I was moving quickly. Up and on I pushed until finally seeing the golden ridgeline ahead. On the ridge I saw a small line cutting across it’s face, which must be the PCT. I was getting closer!
I thought for sure that I would have seen Pooper by now, but so such luck. The sun rose revealing a beautiful morning sky as I climbed the hardy gain. After reaching the PCT and pausing for a quick snack I pressed on. The end was creeping closer and somewhere in the back of my mind I knew it.
Behind me I saw another hiker approaching. It was Mr. Giggles, and we greeted with huge smiles at the top of the climb at Castle Pass. Below us we could see Harper lake, all the way down to its bottom. We chatted on and soon to my surprise Sissyphus came rounding the corner. Pooper had got turned around in the dark and took a wrong trail. He wasn’t too far behind us so we pressed on.
Down we went inching closer to the finish line. We chatted on as usual and paused only for a moment at a small fall just a quarter mile before the Canadian boarder to chill the bottles of Champagne we baught in Stehekan a few days before. It was surreal. We were right there, so close. We pressed the final distance as if it were any other stretch of trail. Finally the monument came into view. It was weird, like seeing death for the first time in real life, just stairing back at you expressionless, without simpothy or encouragement. We walked up and simultaneously layed our hands on the wooden statue. We did it . . .
Pickle deep in thought
Can’t forget to get naked!
Pickle was there to greet us, and soon the rest of the crew started rolling in. There were a good 15 of us hanging out taking in the finish in our own way. Snapping photos, wooping out calls of completion, excitement, and also relief. I got all of us together for a picture, and afterwards read a little speech that I had prepared for the finish. It was a really cool moment, for all of us.
After the celebration subsided and making the realization we still had a good 17 miles to hike back to camp, we got moving. The gain began and we took it on quietly. We walked, strange in our own way, until we saw Johnny Staches group coming in. We all greated and congratulated each other on making it there. We trekked on, back past the lake, climbing up and on the gain, as the sky grew darker with rain clouds. The rain began to sprikle on Sissyphus, Pooper, and my heads, but the views were still incredible. Light spilled down beneath the clouds in areas in the distance revealing the ridgelines and valleys of this beautiful place.
Finally we reached the detour as the sun began to set. We trekked the 7 miles downhill in dark. To our surprise the trees we were forced to jump in the morning were mostly all cut and removed from the trail. A maintainence crew had come in the day and eleaviated our struggle. We were all exhausted, stubbing toes, wet shoes, and a long day finally ended when we reached our tents at 10pm. The slumber we had that night was solid as a rock.
The next day we awoke early and retraced our steps back to Hearts Pass. We sat there, tired and in disbelief that we had truely finished and there wouldnt be 30 miles of trail waiting for us the next morning. With our thumbs out we got lucky and hitched into Winthrop with a bear hunter. Walking into School House Brewery my buddy Dan and my girlfriend Izzie were just sitting there waiting for us. Big stinky hugs and high 5’s we celebrated that we had made it. Off the trail and back to civilization. It was a strange feeling, and my mind struggled to process it, but the fact is: We were done, we had walked across America. Mexico to Canada, 2650 miles, in 147 days. Wild!
I woke to the sound of the Methow River flowing just feet away from my tent. It was time to pack up and get rolling. Not many people were moving, just the way I like it! I hiked up and out of the forest to find a sick ridgeline. Smoke was in the air and the sun shown orane through the veil, but you could still see its beauty. Soon Pooper and Pickle caught up and we all trekked the ridge together chatting on about how weird it was that we are getting so close to the end.
We hadn’t seen Sissyphus that morning and kept our eyes peeled as we walked the beautiful ridge. We saw a few day hikers and knew we were getting closer to Hearts Pass. I kept looking for goats as we skampered on with no luck. Soon, just before the pass, we found trail magic! A big group of dirty hikers was together hanging out as we pulled in. Bologna sandwiches, orange soda, mellon, and a piece of pumpkin pie were munched on untill we were full, fat, and happy. We just sat there, relaxing as Sissyphus rolled up. After snacking on, we slowly slogged out back onto the trail.
There was a small 2 mile climb up to Slate Pass where we dumped off into the Holman Fire bypass trail. Down we went, switchback after switchback. We found a creek at the bottom of the valley and Pickle pulled out his fly fishing rod. Pooper was like a kid on Christmas with excitement as Pickle pulled in the first trout. Giggling on as the fish flipped in his hand Pooper jumped with a yelp as the fish escaped his grasp. It is the little things.
We pressed on knowing we still had miles to cover before camp. We started telling jokes, stories, and riddles as the miles melted away into the heart of the valley. At the first bridge we saw Mr Giggles and his crew all set up for camp. It sun was setting and the 4 of us pressed on through the dimming light. We reached our camp at the 2nd bridge just 20 minutes later and quickly made the best of our accomidations.
Pooper and Sissyphus headed to the river for water and I soon joined. Upon arrival Pooper was nursing a toe he stubbed pretty bad in the dark. It wasn’t until he lifted the nail on his big toe and blood came spirting out that I knew the depth of his injury. I told him to tape it up and don’t touch it until we were off the trail. Just 2 more days, gotta hold on man!
Tired and cranky, we all finally made some food and appeased our insatiable appetites. Soon we were in bed being serenaded by the nearby creek. Tomorrow we would touch the Northern Terminus of the PCT. What a strange thought!
Hiker Profile:
Pooper – 30, from Michigan, originally from India. He has been on a path if change since he moved to america for his Masters Degree in Computer Science. He was 220 lbs (100kg) and in hitting the 100 kg mark he decided it was time to make a change. He started running as a way to loose weight, and he became addicted to the sport. Since starting his new passion he has run over 80 marathons, lost 80 pounds, and in November at the completion of the NY Marathon, he will be the first Indian to complete a marathon in all 50 states. He completed 30 marathons in 1 year, lost 70lbs, and ran his first marathon just 2 years after his first run ever. Its been a journey coming from a 38 inch waist to a 30 inch waist, but now he is a 10 star member of the Marathon maniacs (a group of runners that have completed 3 marathons within 2 weeks).
I woke at the trailcamp, with Sissyphus’ tent butted up next to mine and Pooper sleeping just feet away cowboy style. He looked like a bight blue caterpillar laying there. I got ready, and was soon standing, coffee in hand, ready to let out.
I was starting to get excited about reaching the terminus. We were close enough that I started to plan our miles as I hiked taking in the scenes. The trail climbed on, and soon after crossing the river, it climbed some more. It was nice being first out, I got the trail to myself, plus a little peace and quiet. I pressed on.
Soon enough Pickle caught up to me and we chatted on about post trail businesses and past adventures. The miles melted away and soon we stopped at Hidden campground for a snack and to give Pickle a chance to fish. I made my usual burrito while he set up his fly fishing rod. With a few flicks from his wrist and letting the fly float on the water’s top just by boulders, he had a cutthroat trout on the line. Pretty happy he pulled him in, pulled out the fly, checked him out and released him back into the stream. He repeated this like it was as easy as breathing another 2 times.
Finally I pressed on meeting Sissyphus on the trail. He pulled off for water and I pressed on, soon finding Pooper and Pickles’ company once again. I told the story to Pickle about how I got into climbing and my obsession to summit Zoroaster Temple in the Grand Canyon. He chatted on about starting up a podcast and the long list of interesting people he already had in mind to interview. We trekked on chatting away as a trio and soon came to Highway 20 and Rainy Pass.
Not 5 minutes had gone by before 3, count them, 3 trail angels all showed up with food, snacks, gatoraid, and of course beer for any dirty hiker trash that wanted it! We snacked on, kicked back, and really enjoyed a long long early lunch. With 15 miles left to go I decided to push on.
I trekked on up the sun-drenched trail, but the temps were good, and the gain was better. I switchbacked back and forth working my way up to Cutthroat Pass. Soon Pooper caught up and we soon turned a corner to meet Sabrina and Kathryn. They were out for the weekend, and Sabrina’s husband Fred and their half chihuahua half wienerdog. Sabrina had taken some time off work, she had a hard year and told us about her son who had passed away in a tragic kayaking accident. Apparently he was paddling at a very high level and just had an unlucky day. The four of us sat there on the ledge overlooking the beautiful, yet smokey sky as if we had known each other for far longer than 5 minutes. They were really lovely and after chatting for some time we knew we had to hike on to get to camp in the light.
I gave Sabrina a big hug, sometimes people need it, whether they know it or not. Pooper and I trekked on, dropping down, skirting the mountainside towards the Methow Pass. The views were pretty stellar. Stopping for water at a small creek where an older couple were camped, we once again chatted on. It seemed to be a popular day to be out!
We gained the pass, waved to Fireball, Painter and crew, and finally dropped into the valley headed north towards camp. Down it plunged into the forest which just made it seem darker. After a few miles we arrived at the Methow River and it seemed like tents sprouted from the ground. Almost every tent site was spoken for. After some careful searching we found a spot, made dinner on the bridge and started to eat as Pickle and Sissyphus finally came strolling in, in the dark. They were taking their sweet time. Now that the whole gang was together we ate, bullshitted and headed to bed for a good night’s rest!
I woke to a cold wet bag. I’m not sure if it was cool humid wind from the lake or my warm breath condensing inside of my bag, but none the less, it was town day! I got out of my tent and Pooper was already packed up. Pooper doesn’t mess around on town day!
We both took off, heading down the descent. It was immediately evident that the smoke was back. The valley below was filled and the sun rose red behind the curtain of grey. Pooper and I chatted on as we hauled down the hill. We could see the falls in the distance.
Sissyphus finally caught up and we trekked together seeing the first evidence of the town of Holden. Remnants of very old house foundations lined an old street as we walked into town. Finally we found old log cabins in the town center. We found our way to the hotel where they were still serving the tail end of breakfast!
We chowed down with a group of other dirty hikers. About half way through dinner a hiker came walking up to my seat, I looked up in surprise to find Pickle! I hadn’t seen him since Bishop Pass in the Sierras. I gave the guy a big hug and we caught up between the mouthfuls of food.
After finishing up and paying the bill I decided to explore the town. There was an old bowling alley, pool hall, barber shop, pottery studio, all kinds of cool little hidden gems in the mountains of a secluded town. Eventually we all piled onto a big bus headed for the ferry across Chelan Lake. The ENTIRE town came out to wave us off. It was like a scene out of some Hallmark movie. The bus rumbled down the dirt road packed with hikers and we all chatted on as we neared the boat dock.
Some swam, some bundled up, but soon the ferry arrived and we all piled on. Beer in hand from the boat bar we all sat down and chatted about realizing we were about to go to our last town and resupply. After a quick trip we arrived in Stehekin and headed straight for a nice big lunch. Hikers need fuel, it’s the first thing on our minds when in town!
Food, resupply from the eye-patched postmaster, hanging by the lake and waiting for the shuttle as our sleeping bags and tents dried out. Finally we piled into the shuttle headed back towards the PCT. Piling out of the bus, Sissyphus dropped his phone on the bus seat. To give him crap I picked it up and just sat back and watched him sweat a little. After a while I started taking selfies with other hikers until he realized it was in my hands. After a good laugh we all headed up trail to walk the 5 miles to camp.
Back into the canopy of the forest we plodded on pausing only for water. The chat continued on as our large group meandered to camp. Finally arriving we quickly set up and took over the first available area that was large enough to house 15 of us. It was such a good day. Only a few left!
My brain was in review of this whole thru hiking thing this morning. In doing so I thought back to a conversation I had with my brother on trail. I remeber him saying at the end of our conversation “I gotta go, some of us ave to work”. I rememeber thinking, then replying “Well at least after your 8 hour shift is done, you go home”. Its a funny point, people’s perspective from the outside is so skewed from what its really like to be on trail.
It seems that people read blogs, see Instagram pictures, posed shots and the glamor of the trail. Imagine us all taking long naps, long breaks, feet up for hours, perhaps you walk a bit if we feel like it. When the reality is anyhing but. There are blisters, shin splints, collapsed arches, muscle tears, long 13-16 hours of walking every day, no weekends, pushing physical limits, mental limits, and sometimes people break. Some people quite, go home. Ive seen it happen first hand, for so many reasons. I guess the main point I’m making is that I don’t want people dissalusioned by pretty pictures and think its all fun and games. It is a dream come true. But for most things that are worth it, hey take hard work to achieve.
I woke to a decently non-fridgid morning for once below the mighty trees. Coffee in hand, I headed out and knew the climbs for today were going to be tough. Right off the bat, after Milk Creek the trail began switchbacking back and forth climbing the mountainside through lush green forests. I paused for a moment meeting a FlipFlopper from Belgium. We chatted for a moment and I pressed on. I topped out the climb to be given some sick views of the mountains to the east.
In the distance I saw a hiker climbing the switchbacks of the draw, and soon realized it was Tornado! I handn’t seen him since A Thousand Island Lake way back in the Sierras. We chatted on and caught up taking in the scenery. Soon I left him and continued to water where I plopped down for a good break. Pooper soon joined me and few minutes ater we saw Sissyphus bopping down the trail.
We all headed out and bombed down the other side of the ridge. Down, down, down we went all the way to 2300 ft next to Suiattle River. The forest here was old growth and had some good humus going at its feet, not to mention everything was covered in moss and little underbrush. It was pretty cool and seemed as though anywhere was a good place to lay down for a rest. We breaked for lunch and goofed around as Pooper found a good table for his feast.
Letting our it was every man for himself. We agreed to camp at Layman Lake and took off! The first 5 miles seemed like a roller coaster parrallelling the river. Up and down it went until finally it started to climb the moutainside with long steady switchbacks. One after another the climbs came in waves, endless like the ocean. The forest was gorgeous, and the climbing seemed especially hardy.
I took a short break half way up the climb shoving snacks in my mouth, ready for the top. Finally I broke out of the forest and saw some incredible peaks and ridges in the distance. I had to snap some pictures before taking off again. This time the climb was quick and switchbacks were shorter, climbing faster. Finally I topped the saddle overloking Laymen Lake and rejoiced that camp was near as the sun started going to bed. I hustled the mile down to the lake as the forest and the setting sun shaded any light from my path. Finally I arrived and chatted on wih Sissyphus and Pooper as I set up camp! “At least it wasn’t 9pm tonight” I announced! What a great day!
So the rose, thorn, and bud excersice is something StuckOnTheGround started with the group at the end of the day. Rose being your highlight or favorite part, thorn being your biggest challenge, and bud being what you are looking forward to tomorrow. This may sound all “kum-bay-ya” but it is a really nice way to reflect on the day and find something to be thankful for. Recognize challenge and gear your mind towards the future.
My Rose for today was the stellar views from the tops of the two ridges we climbed and the sunrise that morning. My thorn was the fact that I ripped a left shoe, broke my left earbud, and lost my smartwool beanie on the trail somewhere. These 3 events put me in a crap mood, but somehow pulled out of it. My bud is seeing the views from tomrrows big climb and starting the fire reroute which will bring me and the boys into Stehekin!
I stirred in my tent. The cold air nipped at me, and finally I forced myself to move. A cloud had passed over us in the night dropping off some nice dew all over our tents and sleeping bags. Mmmm waking up damp, not my favorite! Despite this I got moving, rolling my wet gear away and was rewarded with an incredible sunrise.
Drifts of fog rolled in front of the ridgeline views and I was enjoying them until I was engulfed in my own fog or low cloud. Pooper had caught up with me and we trekked together taking in the views. The ridge dropped off into a valley and climbed out the otherside to a clear, sunny, meadow on the side of a mountain. We took a nice break and I threw all my gear out to dry. Sissyphus soon joined us to take in the stunning views!
We had somehow taken almost an hour break and in realizing it decided to get our butts in gear. It was business time! Sissyphus took off, and Pooper and I followed. We climbed a nice ridge seeing weekend backpacker after backpacker to our surprise. Afterwards dumped down the other side back into the forest. Lush green forest, moss covering the forest floor, waterfalls bellowing hundreds of gallons of crystal clear water pumped life into the underbrush. On this decent my toe got caught by a root and it ripped my shoe, dang! Field repair time!
Just before reaching our meetup spot the trail turned swampy and the bushes reached in. One grabbed my headphones and ripped my left earbud from the wire. I was pretty pissed, I used these to jam to music, and always put them in at night to pass out within minutes of laying down. Soon I saw Sissyphus, I plopped down all grumpy and continued to eat and work on my shoe.
The guys pressed on as I finished up. I knew I needed some time to work off some steam. I absolutely hate having to spend money on materialistic things that i’ve already paid for once. Anyway the climb up and out of the valley did me good. Head down and heart pumping, I climbed on. Soon I stripped off my hat and hung it on my pack. By the time I reached Glacier Creek and looked down to realize my hat was gone, it was already too late. Turn crabby into pissed the fuck off! It just wasn’t my day. Good thing I had more climbing to do!
I pressed on after going back and searching hight and low. I reminded myself I was out here in a place where not many people ever get to go, much less for 5 months and I should be thankful. That combined with the climb finally put my mood in check. I topped out and was rewarded with 360 incredible views!
Knowing I had little time I bombed down the other side. Switchback after switchback the light began to fade from the sky. As I decended further into the valley below the light just became dimmer until finally I had to turn on my headlamp to walk. Finally I reached camp where Sissyphus and Pooper were setting up. Whew made it! We chatted on and caught up during the nightly chores. I was thankful for my two friends on the trail. Despite the thorns, the rose of the day was gorgeous and the promise of the bud to come will only keep me in suspense.
I woke just a few miles out from Stevens Pass. I could hear Superstar talking in her sleep. She didn’t stir as I put my food bag into my pack, shouldered it, and headed out. It seemed to be a dim morning and I sipped on my coffee and shook the chill from my fingers as I walked. Up and over a ridge I went just to be back into the fog again.
On the back side of ridge the temperature dropped dramatically and I plundge down into the other side. Snaking through the greenery I finally fond a nice creek flowing well and stop for my first break of the day. Soon Sissyphus and Pooper come rolling up. “Hey hey fellas!” I said as I threw my pack back on. We hike on as a trio chatting on about all kinds of silly things that come up when 3 guys are together on the trail.
We kept a good pace rolling, up and down over passes. The views in the distance were starting to clear and we could see far off peaks, some with snow on them. We paused for a lunch break and I cooked up ramen as Pooper and Sissyphus snacked on. Pooper almost fell alseep and we started threatening to call him Napper instead.
From here we treked the next 1.5 miles to Pear Lake, grabbed some water, and quickly pressed on. It was a no nonsense day because we wanted to get some good distance covered. The next few miles were a everyman for himself style, Sissyphus rocketed ahead down some steep slopes and Pooper and I would leap frog here and there. Granite rocks, pines, and blue cold mountains in the distance was our new home.
I soon came around a corner just south of Skykomish Peak and saw 2 guys in camflage with a spotting scope. I asked what they were going for and the said bear! “Whew!” I said asking them if they had seen any goats in the meantime and if they had seen any bears out. No goats, no bears, no such luck! I bid them fairwell and started skirting the ridgeline. The mountains that painted the horizon were incredible!
I soon passed MaryAnn Lake and Pooper paused filtering some water. Pushing the last stretch to campo I came across at least four marmots in bushes right next to the trail. Their little brown butts and legs scampered from under their salt and pepper backs. They seemed unusually close and soon I realized they were munching on huckleberries trailside. I quickly walked past and climbed the final switchbacks to camp where Sissyphus waited.
He was all set up at camp, and soon was I. Pooper came in just a few minutes later following suite. Food, stretches, and teeth brushing preceeded the utter dive into the tent escaping the cold night air. The wind seemed to bite especially hard tonight! 50s? 40s? No one had a thermometer, so we just had to guess from the comfort of our sleeping bags. Another great day on trail!
I woke to a nice chilly morning at packed away my things. Everyone but Sissyphus stirred in their tents as I left. The sky was cloudy grey and threatening rain, but we were only 12 miles from town.
I pressed on hiking quickly trying to keep warm when the rain, slowly but shurely started to sprinkle down on our heads. It dampened my mood and the rain mixed with the low 50s temps made it hard to get moptivated. I soon pulled over to call BooBoo Johnson and found some nice huckelberries to munch on simultaneously . . . bonus points?
Afterwards StuckOnTheGround caught up and we trekked on through the rain and the wet underbrush up towards the pass and ski lifts for Stevens Pass. We chatted on about trying to keep the moral up while in less than perfect conditions. She guides for kayaking company in Alaska and their weather there isn’t exactly perfect. As we approached the pass, day hikers and backpackers came headed in southbound. We reached the pass and paused for a cell signal check.
I had signal! And a text from Izzie saying that the northen termanis was open with a special bypass! I was so excited and told the crew, instant moral bost!
Once we reached the pass StickyFingers was chilling with his dad making breakfast sandwiches and handing out cold beverages. That on top of the great news of the open terminis really turned the day around! StuckOnTheGround, Pooper, Sissyphus, Happyu and myself hitched into Skykomish. After a run to the post office, we all reconvined for lunch.
We said goodbye to Happy as he headed back to Seattle to move. He would be back on trail the next day. Pooper headed back to the pass to grab a package before the lodge closed. StuckOnTheGround opted to stay there trying to stretch the trail out as long as possible. Sissyphus and I finally hitched back to the pass after stuffing ourselves to the gills with delicious food and icecreame.
We finally let out, back onto the trail. It was just a half hour before the sunset so we only got about a mile or more. Headlamp on and tired, we found flat spots, pitched tents, and passed out. What great news about the end, it was so close we could all taste it!
I was the first up and out of our trailside camp. We had packed in wherever we could, finding semi-flat spaces, just good enough to fall asleep on. Happy was up moving, StuckOnTheGround and Pooper shuffled in their tents, and not a stir came from Sissyphus. I hiked out having goodbye and walked into the canopied green snaking trail.
It was quiet and scerene, it was so peaceful and I moved quickly up and through its winding curls. Underbrush, ferns, green sprawled every inch of ground, and the trees rose up like giants covered in moss. Water ran across the trail from side creeks who were fed from little mini waterfalls. All the creeks of course ran down to feed the mighty Waptus Lake. Finally after quite a few miles I passed my first hiker, the only thing he said to me was “It might rain, it might not”, in reply I said “Well, at least it isn’t right now”, he chuckled and I hiked on.
Soon gaining the next small saddle I saw Gormet and caught up to him to chat. We trekked together for a bit approaching Deep Lake. The foreground was a golden meadow, the lake beyond, and looming above was Cathedral Rock. It was loomed in clouds and commanded a powerful presence. I pressed on starting up the switchbacks. About half way up I pulled over and decided to have second breakfast. As I stood to leave Happy came bumping along around the corner.
We hiked together gaining the next saddle where we paused for a break. Soon Pooper, StuckOnTheGround, and Finally Sissyphus came rolling in where we all took a break. The next few miles we stuck together down the dropoffs and up the gains joking on and singing silly songs. It was a really nice day, and as soon as we gained a ridge we were slapped in the face with incredible expansive views of the surrounding mountains!
We made our way up to Deceptive Lake where StuckOnTheGround went for swim and the rest of us made lunch. It was nice, but chilly spot. CatctAss came rolling in to join us. We all let out, hooving up the next large hill. The views were stellar. Glaciers clung to rocky mountains and high lakes set snuggled at their feet. We finally took Pipers pass and evaluated our camp for the night. We had another 5 miles or so before we would have a fitting spot large enough for all of us to cram.
It was every man for themselves! Everyone going at their own pace, we boombed down from the pass, past Glacier Lake, and took the tough gain up to thew ridge overlooking Trap Lake. It was a short down and a quick mountain skirt before we were all nestled down near the spring. Setting up camp we were all bundled as well as could be. Rainjackets went on over puffys and rain pants came out for optimum warmth as the temps started to plummit. After stretching, food, and nightly chores, we all leaped into our tents hunkering down for the already cold night. It was a great day and the views were incredible!
We woke, all tucked together on one rock like a slumberparty. I was firstawake and started packing up. The sun was just starting to make its magic happen! The pinks and pastels started taking over the heavens. There, in the distance, on the horizon was Mt. Rainier, towering above, golden from the sunrise and standing tall and powerful. We all marveled and snapped pictures left and right.
I finsihed packing up, all the while stairing off in the distance. Soon I was standing and ready to go. Happy and I hiked out and both Pooper and StuckOnTheGround were still getting their mornings going. We chatted on as we gained the ridge. The mountains surrounding us lit up in the morning light and we reveled in their beauty. I pressed on, skirting the climbing trail as Happy pealed off for a side adventure.
When you see something so awesome and fascinating, its hard to hike fast. It seemed to be the theme of the morning. Happy caught up just as I gained a saddle being blasted with more incredible views to the east. Soon following Happy, Pooper caught up as well and we all chatted on as we decended down into the forested switchbacks. Soon we came to Lemah Creek Falls where we paused for a break. StuckOnTheGround caught up and it wasn’t long before someone started pulling off clothes and got in the rushing waterfalls. The group clambered in, on by one, into the freezing water, fully sumberging his or her head beneith the refreshing flow.
Clean spirited, we packed up and headed on. Meandering through the flats and finally up the large climb of the day. Switchback after switchback came and and passed on beneath our feet. It wasn’t until half way up that someone meantioned lunch and we quickly clogged up a switchback with our bodies and packs, resting for a snackbreak. Feeling the need to press on, Pooper and I got up and took on the rest of the hill. It topped out and we could see for miles across the mountain scattered rideline. We both paused at Cooper River to replenish our water and take a final break before the 7 mile decent to hopefully, a nice tent site.
We all grouped back together and decended all the elevation we had just gained into the next valley that housed Waptus Lake. We sung Disney songs and acted a fool, but it was all good fun and made the hiking that much more enjoyable. We finally found ourselves at Spade Creek after snaking through the lush green valley. The river was loud beneith the bridge and tumbled down with some good force. Not finding much of good campsite, as the only one was taken by a single orange tent that could have easily fit 4 (the guy declined packing any more people in). We made the best of what we could find near the bridge and stuck our tents in any relatively flat spot. Flys were on for everyone as we heard rain was oncomming. As the light faded we told jokes, riddles, shared our favorite parts of the day and munched down on rehydrated food. It was a good day, hopefully the next would prove just as awesome!
Youtube Film Series Reccomendation: Every frame a painting
I woke in the hotel room and slowly got going. Packing up and putting all my things and ready to go when Sissyphus texts me saying hes coming into town and wants to borrow our shower. Soon after freshening up, we all (Superstar, Sissyphus and myself) went to breakfast and chowed down. Post breakfast Superstar headed out to the trail, on a mission to finish at Rainy Pass.
It wasn’t long before Sissyphus talked me into getting a beer for lunch and hanging out waiting for Happy to get into town. So what usually happens when you get the crew back together: the votex effect. Happy came in and so did StuckOnTheGround! Reunited, it was soon evident that we were taking a full zero in town; so we got hotel room and made the best of the hottub!
Day 137: 8.28.18
Lets try this again! We got ready and all packed up and made our way to breakfast. It was a slow morning. Soon Sissyphus broke off to do some blogging and th rest of the gang hung out at the Aardvark before we finally mustered up the courage to get out on the tail at 1pm! Pooper (Washington section hiker) joined our fun little group.
Up and into the forsted trail we went, I felt immediately happy amongst the trees! The gain was strong and steady and the views became better and better as we climbed. Day hikers were out in droves and it wasn’t until the Catwalk that they started to dimminish. The bare ridges in the distance were incredible and we snapped pictures as our pace went from brisk to a crawl.
We pressed on the next few miles being goofy, singing 90s pop songs, taking pictures and chatting away. After skirting Joe Lake we finally found our camp on a granite perch overlooking the valley to the southwest. It was gogeous, and if you looked really hard you could see Rainier. Soon Pooper came into camp and the 4 of us made dinner and cowboy camped on the epic bluff. What a great day!
Rain pattered on the fly of my tent. This time I was ready and my tent was properly set up. I stirred and turned over not ready to relenquish my sleeping bag to the cold wet morning. Finally, I got my butt moving. There was just a short 20 miles to Snoquolumne, so I figured I could sleep in a bit.
I put away my gear from the inside of my tent, got coffee going, then finally exited and broke down my tent quickly. I packed away the wet gear and got moving trying to keep my body temp up. The fog was still on and the rain misted on me as I hiked up the hill.
I came into a clearing from the thick tress to hear was sounded like a river. As I neared the open field, I realized that the buzz from the high power lines was so loud it actually like a small river rushing in the rain. Back into the forest I was swallowed. Soon I heard voices behind me and saw 2 trail runners coming on.
I though the race was far over, and in pausing as they passed they told me they were the cleanup crew for all the pink tape from the race the day before. We started chatting, and they slowed their run to a quick hike and we trekked together. We chatted about their off grid home, the prospect of retiring, and the viewpoint of Work to Live vs. Live to Work. They were super positive, and I could tell that they were good natured, not only by their banter but also their great attitudes trekking even through cold wet long miles.
Kyle and Rachel were based in Washington and trekked all over, even finding ther way to Arizona in the winter months to visit family and do some ultrarunning. We chatted on until coming to Mirror Lake where I pulled over for some early lunch. Eleven miles had already melted away in our bantering on about dream lives.
I pressed on from the lake through the mist alone. It was a scerene landscape, no sounds except the slight sound of mist hitting trees and pools of water. Up and down hills through the pine forest I weved taking in what fog limited views I could and enjoying the glistening of the trees with their low hanging branches.
Just a few miles from Snoquolumne I met up with SuperStar who said she was getting a hotel and asked if I wanted to split. It was so wet that I couldnt say no and hopped on the prospect of a warm shower and getting dry clothes for the next day. Just after leaving her Gormet came rolling up and we trekked the last few miles into town together.
It seemed to rain harder as we neared the town. We hiked under the ski lifts and switchbacked down the hill until finally rolling into town. First stop was The Aardvark which was a small little shop with INCREDIBLE food! Get the Hurry Curry if you go, mindowlingly good. The mix of sweet cornbread, herbal greens, hot curry chicken spread on rice was magical. I soon headed to the hotel and got my chores going. A wet, cold, but good day!
I woke behind the Urich cabin cold and stairing at the ceiling of my tent. Its mid August and it has to be like 38 degrees out here. I woundered if this is just a short window or if the rest of Washington would remain cold and foggy.
I started out on the trail and thew field in front of the cabin was covered in fog. I braced myself for a chilly day, headed out on the trail with coffee in hand. As I climbed through the forest I happened upon a huckelberry heaven. I stopped every 20 feet or so to stuff one after th other of the delicious little treats into my mouth. So delicious and testy! This was the real reason people dont get to Canada, too distracted by the berries.
I entered a burn area soon after. From a far it looked like the final scene of the movie 300 with bodies everywhere after a huge battle, except with trees. It was also riddlede with more huckelberries than I could eat. I soon bumped into MadScience and we started chatting on. We quickly figured out we both lived in Phoenix at some point and that he recently completed the AZT. We chatted on and soon found an Aid station out in the wilderness. Aparrently there was a 100 mile rce going on today and runners would be passing through this section of the PCT.
I soon I pulled over for some lunch and waved goodbye to MadScience. Not but 10 minutes later, with a mouth full of Ramen I waved to the first runners passing my lunch spot. After lunch I pressed on and it became a regular thing to pull over for oncoming runners. I heard cheering in the distance and as I approached there was a group of people cheerring on the runners at a dirt road. It would be cool if they had thi for PCTers I thought as I passed by.
After the day pressed on, I got used to looking over my shoulder like a tick to see if a runner was approaching. The weather was being its BiPolar self. Warm, cold, sprinckling rain, fridged, warm, cold, it was all ver the place. Seemed to be good weather for running but I couldnt decide to keep my jacket on or not as I snaked throuogh the pines.
The gain in this seciton was vicious, and much like a roller coaster. Up, down, up, up, up, down, just seemed to be playing with my emotions and i could see how it would be a tough section for any runner.
Finally after the fog seeme to settle and I couldnt tell what time of day it was anymore, I decided to find a nice little camp in the bottom of a valley. Chilly, but protected I set up my tent. To my surprise MadScience and Gormet were there, setting up and chilling for the night. I finsihed off my stretches and my dinner and dove headfirst into my tent in search for some warmth and rest!
Gear Reccomendation: Vorahgear
Hiker Profile:
Mad science – Earlly 30s from eastern Washington. Completed the AZT, out here to take on the PCT. Started climbing just before the trail and became obsessed, he has plans to take on climbing projects as soon as he is done. He is a long distance runner, started doing some Ultrarunning with Aerovipa group in Phoenix and thru hiking just became an extension on that.
It was 2:30 am and I woke, shivering, to the sounds of raindrops hitting my tent. Not only were they hitting my tent but I seemed to be pushed to the right side teetering on the edge of a drop next to my tent. I had to quickly select a tent spot and a small pad a little off trail was all I could find in short notice. I had luckily put my fly on thinking it would be cold that night. However unlucky for me, I didnt steak it out properly or attach the fly to the cross poles of my tent.
Water was rushing down on the outside of the fly which way laying directly against the tent body, thus getting anything wet touching the tent body. My sleeping bag, sleeping pad, shirt, hoody, and of course me was already drenched. I had to do the painstaking task of getting out in the rain and steaking out the tent, then crawling back in trying not to freeze in the 38 degree weather.
I forced myself to get out, get my chore done, and leap back into my tent. Little did I notice that my bare feet were covered in dirt and mud when I leaped back into the tent for safety. Everything was wet, and now dirty to boot. I put my damp wool shirt on tucked my hands into my arm pits, and somehow like a miricle fell asleep at 4am, cold wet, and pretty tired.
I woke at 6 and knew I had to get going. I laid there not wanting to move, but finally the rain had stopped and it was time. I put on every piece of clothing I had in my bag. I packed up everything and dumped the 2 inches of standing water out of my tent before packing it away wet. I had to get moving and was soon barrelling down the trail sipping on hot coffee.
I crossed the bridge spanning Chinook Pass and headed up the trail. Soon I ran into Painter who I hadent seen since the first week on the trail. We caught up, chatting about the crazy foggy weather, the fire closures, and trail life since we had last seen each other. Mid chat I saw I hiker headed southbound that I recognized as a north bounder. We stopped and chatted and he told us hee was quitting. Its strange to see someone pull the plug. There was nothing wrong with him physically, it was just the mental game. Wish just 300 miles to go, man.
After hiking up a nice hill though the fog and cold wind, I stopped off for a break and Painter rambled on. I pulled out all the gear I had and put it on a ridge for the wind to try and dry. Spirt of sun would peep though the clouds, but I didnt have much faith it would come out. After a bit I packed up and headed back out skirting the beautiful ridgeline.
Every once in a while the sun would come out and you would get a glimpse of the mountains in the distance. After trekking through the woods for a few miles I stopped off when the sun finally decided to come out long enough to be effective. Instant yardsale. Everything I had was out and draped on trees trying to dry. I took the time to cook up some ramen and chat with passing hikers.
I finally got all my gear dry, packed up and pressed the last few miles through a long nd interesting burn area towards camp. I soon met CharlieHorse who had a gift for gab and a distain for people who didnt have it together out here. He was a funny guy and we chatted on as we neared Mike Ulichs cabin. Once we arrived there was a fire inside and a few thru hikers hanging out. I chose to camp out back, setting up, filtering water and taking advantage of thew 7pm camp arrival. I was tired and ready for bed, after stuffing my face, I crawed into my tent, glad it wasn’t wet from the night before!
I woke in the parkinglot behind the Cracker Barrel gas station tired and not wanting to move. The night before had been windy, chilly, and I was reluctant to get going. Finally I pulled myself from my bag and got the morning ritual going. The upside here was, there was a hot shower in a small building behind the store waiting for me.
The hot water steamed the cool air and I plugged my 4 quarters into the slot machine. It was 5 minutes in heaven, followed by 5 cold wet minutes of misery trying to dry off without a towel and throw my clothes back on. Finally I had my pack on and was shivering as I walked towards the trail.
I got moving with frozen fingers and was soon underway crusing along the forested trail. Meadows, trailside ponds, huckelberries, and a chill wind to keep me on my toes. I heard a voice behind me saying “coming up behind you”. I turned to see another hiker and pulled over letting him pass. I hiked on behind him and we started chatting. Soon I foud out that we were both from Va and went to Virginia Tech for Engineering. Its funny how these things work. The new few miles melted away as we chatted on passing beautiful lakes and forested meadows.
Finally we came to a creek, chatted on over lunch, then went on our seperate ways. It was a pretty good day so far, and it was only going to get better. Pressing on from lunch a large hill started putting the gain on. I trudged on under the weight of my bag until finally bettering the hill and finding clear skys for the first time in 3 days of smoke I marveled at the vista and soon pressed on. As soon as I turned the corner I was slapped in the face with my first clear view of Mt Rainier, what a beast!
It stood tall and proud and I gazed on, woundering what a summit attempt would feel like. Shaking out of it I continued on the trail. I paused to pick huckelberries, taking pictures of misted moutains, and gathering water in cool streams. After passing Dewey Lake a final uphill battle ensued. I pressed on and up feeling the temperature fall and a stange fog settle down from above. Once I reached the saddle and found a camp I decided it was going to be a cold night and put my fly on for extra warmth. The thick clouds rolled acrossed the mountains from my cliff perch lookout. It was amazing and I listened to the sounds of the night as they crept in. Soon I was cazy in my sleeping bag, all tucked away for the cold night to come.
Hiker Profile:
2Percent – 34 From SouthWest Virginia. Went to Virginia Tech, class of ’06, he graduated with a degree in Materials Engineering and has since worked for companies developing masting properties. From Arkansas to Cincinnati, he was worked for mostly Aerospace material companies. Currently on a sebatical from his company, hes taking on the PCT and will be returning to Virginia, wokring remotely to start a non-profit benefitting kids in STEM programs in the area. He completed the AT in 2012 and says he doesnt think he will go for the Tripple Crown (CDT thru hike would complete his trifecta). His blog – thethruhike.com
An ant is stranded on a rock in the middle of a creek. Two rocks to be accurate, touching each other, and covered in moss. His little island had but one route of escape. There was a long stick that created a bridge out and away to safety if only the ant were aware of it. I watched him clean off his antenni as if he was just washed on this island as I happened upon him. The question is: What woud you do? What would most people do? Pick up the ant and move him? Move the stick in front of him? Or let life happen as it may . . . I chose the latter as I don’t think the ant would have learned anything by my interference. Eventually he found the stick, all on his own, and that is where I left him, and headed on down the trail.
I woke on the side of a cliff in the Goat Rocks Wilderness. It was such a cool place. I packed up and trekked on admiring the surrounding ridges and peaks. It seemed as though some of the smoke was clearing and I could make out a little more of the distant features. The golden light of morning started peeping over the ridge and I climbed the trail.
At one point I turned to look back to where I had come and realized that looming behind me was Mt. Saint Hellens. Its head popped out above the brown smoke and stood tall with its flat volcano top. I soon took the ridge and found patched of snow and a few intact glaciers. It was a gorgeous sight and I found a nice perch to have a break and take in the sights.
A group of middle aged guys came upon me and started asking all sorts of questions about the PCT and my journey. They were a fun group and it was nice to see them all enjoying nature together. I just kept taking it in, and the ridgewalk from there was phenomenal. Thousand foot drops on either side and views for miles. There was still smoke masking most of it, but even with that you couldnt deny the beauty of this place.
Soon I came to Elk Pass where an alternate route diverging PCTers away from the Miriam fire was in place. Man let me tell you, this trail was a roller coaster! I started out bombing down the backside of a ridge before finding Packwood Saddle where the trail went right back up climbing towards Chimney rock. The views were great but once I was in a rythm it the would dump right back off again.
I found myself at the beautiful green and blue Lost Lake. I thought to myself about taking a dip for a moment, then reconsidered seeing how long it took me to go just a few short miles. From there the trail gained on, up and up I went. When I found the edge of a ridge, I would just find another climb waiting for me. After 3 false summits I finally found the top of the ridge. I could see the fire from a far and the smothering smoke that covered everything.
I bombed off the ridgetop past Lost Hat Lake were I gatered water and finally the final roller coaster ride that brought me to Cowlitz River. There was no good crossing and I ended up getting out on a tree that had been felled by some storm. The other end of it wasnt touching the ground and as I worked my way out towards the end, it bounced and swayed over the rushing river below. It looked like a scene out of a cartoon. Finally about 3/4 across the river the tree bounced me so much that I lost balance and had to jump in. Luckily I landed well and water went up to my calves. Could have been much worse.
I climbed the trail and foud myself on Highway 12. I had 2.5 mile roadwalk to Cracker Barrel store and I hurried along hoping I would get there before they closed. Cars and 18wheelers alike went roaring by. The shoulder wasnt huge but with some luck and a good pace I finally pulled into the store parking lot. Tired and ready for rest. With 8 minutes to spare I grabbed my box and a beer and found my way out back where the rest of the thru hiker trash was all camped out for the evening. Right where I belong!
I woke at the base of Mt. Adams to a brisk chilly wind, but surprisingly no sore throat! I packed up and went through the usual routine. Just as I was headed out of camp StuckOnTheGround (SOTG) emmerged from her layer. “See you up trail”, we both said simultaneously and laughed at our sillyness.
I let out of camp, but what hadn’t let up was the smoke. It still persisted, looming in the air despite the chilly wind attempting to wisk it away. I hiked through some cool lava fields as the wind continued to cut through the pines.
I finally came to the dropoff where the trail departed the base of Adams and headed north. I stopped here, for a last look at the big beast and a creekside picknick. I’d have to say, it was pretty wounderful! I got moving once again and dive bombed down the hill.
The trekking was pretty chill this morning, and randomly I would bump into hikers headed up towards Adams. I bid them good luck! After the decent stopped, the trail did what it normally did, took off up a hill! Back into the woods I plunged, however this time I found a calm scerenity amongs the mountain lakes. The only other northbound hiker I saw that dy was StarWars, and he seemed perpectly fine meandering along. I was on a mision to meet up with Larry Bitzko, an old friend from work.
Larry and his pals were supposed to be camped at mile 2272 and I was in striking distance if I kept my pace up. I stopped just beofre the last hill for a brek and chatted with trailcrew as they had just finished their day and were headed to camp. Only 8 miles and 1500 feet to go until 2272. I took off up the trail.
I hadnt listened to anything on my phone all day and I wasn’t about to start now. The trail gained quickly, but it was enjoyable and I watched the valley frop below me. The red sun was in the sky covered in smoke and the pines jetted up from the depths below the smoke. Finally I rounded the corner and saw Goat Rocks, it was stellar! The colorful formations, jagged teeth sticking up towards the sky, so many cool features and ridges to play on.
I pressed on and gained Cispus Pass. I figured they couldnt be far and quickly hiked to the area Larry would be. I drew nearer and saw 2 tents on the hill, that must be them! I headed on and saw a young guy walking towards waer, which this confused me. I asked if he had a Larry in his group, and the guy told me it was just him, his daad, and brother. Looks like I was either early or missed them!
I hiked on, grabbed some water from one a stellar waterfall and hiked the next mile to my cliffside camp. I perched right out on the rocks, like any good goat would. Despite the smoke, it was gorgeous here, and definitly on the list of places to come back to and explore!
As I feared, the sore throat from the day before persisted. To my delight no one came hiking down the side trail I had plopped my tent in the middle of. I figured caming there was better than creating a new sleeping pad which would get high use once others discovered it.
I hiked on through the trees, it seemed as though the sun was taking its sweet time debating on coming our and shinning. By 9am I had decided it must be overcast as there was a faint glow behind the moss colored pines. As I crossed a dirt road I paused to take a picture, then walked on. Out of nowhere a bee, or wasp, flew up, landed on my calve and without warning stung me! There was no call for this, I wasn’t near a nest or was pestering him, it just decided I was getting it. I let out a yelp and an obsenity from surprise.
I walked it off limping further into the forest. I gained up a large ridge, reaching the top I hoped for views, but unfortunatly I only got more forest, which was nice too. I finally decended the ridge, found road 23 and started walking south towards Trout Lake with my thumb out. It wasn’t long until Brian, a wine distributor from Cali out for some weekend fishing, came by and scooped me up.
Post office, food resupply, lunch at the Cafe and finally a nice little nap in the Cafe’s back lawn is how I spent the next few hours. I headed back out to the road all packed up where I saw StuckOnTheGround walking towards the road as well. I hadnt seen her since Tuolumne and we caught up. Almost as soon as we met, a felly named John C., with no shirt on, offered to give us a ride knowing we were hikers. Without hesitation we jumped in.
John C. was an interesting man, 1 or 2 teeth missing, but a good heart and a cheep Rainier in his hand, he went on about how he wanted to hike the trail and how nature really has the power to heal you. We both agreed, and after a good 13 mile drive where sometimes you have glimpses of the car coming off the road and tumbling into a thousand pices drifting through your head, we were both glad to see the PCT trailhead. The suspension wasn’t great and going from 3mpg to 60mpg is always interesting when you aren’t the one driving!
We made it back to trail safely, and as soon as we had hiked 1/4 mile we found Shades and his trail magic. Hot dogs with chili, beer, snacks, its like hitting the jackpot back to back! We plopped down and chatted as he handed us food. Not but 5 minutes had passed and both Happy and Sissyphus unexpectedly came walking up. It was a really nice reunion!
Happy and Sissy were headed into town and StuckOnTheGround and I headed up trail. We winded through the forest, through burn areas, and lush green pine patches. Mt. Adams was covered in smoke, but finally after a few miles the smoke began to clear out and we could see some vague lines of its face. We hiked to Riley Creek and stopped for the night. A little stretching and dinner was a great way to end a beautiful day on the trail!
Hiker Profile:
StuckOnTheGround – 24, from Wisconsin. After school she moved to Alaska for seasonal work as a deck hand, and kayaking guide. She studied film and on a trip to Tanzania, she filmed her adventure kayaking to the island and doing some fun seaside multipitch trad climbing. Shes hopi g to get the film into the Realrock series, and until then just wants to keep on persuing her transient lifestyle!
I woke to a strange feeling in my throat. It was dry, rough, and when I breathed the chilled air I could feel how raw it was. Everything pointed to the early signs of a cold and sore throat. I instantly thought of ChilliBin who had been coughing up her lungs like they were on fire for the last week. My only saving grace in seeing her suffer, was knowing she was still hiking, and keeping up with no problems.
I packed up and let out of camp, doddling along, stuffing my gullet with food. One thing I did know is that if I fed myself and stayed hydrated that perhaps I could hold the symptoms off long enough to get some meds at Trout Lake, just a day away. I trekked though the forested trail and marveled at the trees as I passed under them trying to forget my throat.
I soon came to a trail camp and John had a plethera of food all layed out for thru hikers. It was a feast: muffins, fruit, fruit snacks, chocolate, beer, wine, quite a spread! I fed on as we chatted on about his side business and using Raspberry computers for smart homes. After a bit I knew time was running from me and I said thanks and headed on my way. Back into the forest I plunged.
I kept looking up and admiring the trees as I had been listening to a book called The Hidden Lives of Trees. The things that I learned were pretty cool. All about how trees adapt, move water, use networks of fungi to communicate, and live on a totally different timescale than us. Also all the similar things to us, including social behavior, taking care of young sapolings, healing wounds, guarding off attacks from predators (such as beetles and some fungi), and working together in large networks to create a strong community. I would highly reccomend it!
Soon I came to Bear Lake and plopped down for a lunch break. I was feeling pretty tired from the day, and I still wasnt sure what was going on with my throat. So I decided to nap for 20 minutes. It hardly seemed enough, but I was slightly better than before and pressed up the trail.
I came across quite a few day hikers and section hikers all interested in my story and I chatted on for a few minutes giving my feet a rest. I knew the day was growing shorter and I finally pressed the last few miles to water. I was hoping there would be a camp near Steamboat Lake, but I was short on luck. I ended up camping right in the middle of a sidetrail, betting that no one would hike up the trail before I was packed up and gone. I needed the rest, and was glad to get it! Tomorrow, Trout Lake!
I woke next to the creek and the sound began to increase. It was like it was muted and as I woke someone slowly started cranking up the volume. The creek was clear, and it looked like a really nice spot to chill for a few hours mid day, maybe go for a dip. I had to press on so I packed up and headed up the lush green trial.
It was a beautiful morning, chilly but not bad. This was benificial as it seemed like the trail wanted to take vengence for the relaxed terrain of Oregon. I climbed up what seemed like eternity before finally gaining a never ending ridge just to dump right back down the other side. The downhills seemed like gasps or recovery from the ups, so it only ever conciously seemed like I was going up all damn day.
Every once in a while I could get a glimpse of the views in the distance through clearings in trees. I didnt see anyone until 10am when I saw 2 NoBo hikers cranking on through as I was resting at the end of one of these hill for my 2nd breakfast. I waved hello and they trekked on.
Most people were at PCT Days festival in Cascade Locks, and I was stoked to be away from the crowds, which meant less competition for campsites. I topped another such ridge for a break and Stallion came prancing by, we was on a roll and didn’t want to stop so I waved him on.
I came to a clearing and for the first time I could see Mt. Adams, standing tall and strong, just like Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood. I knew it would only be a few more days before I would be skirting the base of the giant. I decended down finally after a long stuggling hill and slowly glided into camp. Whew what a day! The old easy days of cranking 30 miles like it was nothing are dead and gone! Hello Washington!
I woke early as usual and started packing up my things. I would be the only one hiking out that day as most hikers were in Cascade Locks for the weekends PCT Trail Days event. Happy and ChilliBin planned on hiking out that night, but I was curious if the vaccume would suck them in and hold them hostage.
After a much needed shower we all headed over to a diner in town for a good hardy breakfast. Sissyphus, Happy, ChilliBin, Collin, Calob and Shepherd all joined me for the feast. I ordered county fried steak with sausage gravy, hashbrowns, a pancake, and 2 eggs. I wasn’t dissapointed. We were there for at least an hour in the cold diner attempting to finish the meal, only a few of us suceeded. I practically stumbled out of the doors strapping my pack on. I said goodbye to everyone and pressed on towards the bridge the spanned the Columbia River and seperated Oregon and Washington.
It was time to press the final leg of the journey, and I felt a little strange as I walked across the metal gratings high above the freezing quick water below. There was no pedestrian sidewalk, so hikers had to walk on the road, and hope that cars didn’t take them out! The wind was high and air was crisp cold coming off the river as I walked across. At one point my hat flew off in a hurry, and I practically had to chase it into traffic to save it.
I reached the safe shores of Washington State in safety. Soon I was back on the trail padding on. Blackberries were in season and I kept pausing to snack on them. At this rate ill never make it to Canada, I thought to myself! I pressed on and soon after some exposed areas was thrown back into the forest once again.
The frorest just continued to grow thicker the further I hiked. Furns covered the ground, moss covered the trees, and the canopy was so thick not much light shone through. I pressed on further climbing up a huge hill as I did. Cascade Locks was around 200 ft elevation, the lowest point on the trail. I would be climbing up to 300, dropping back down and bobbling all around through the state of Washington. The terrain would only grow harder and try to make the miles harder.
The surroundings started to seem almost jarassic. The thickness of the green everywhere was beautiful, and seemed like such a contract to the burn area we decended the day before. I kept trekking until finding Rock Creek and a nice flat pad along it’s banks. This would be home for the night. After rehydrating some good turkey enchalada bean stew and stretching out I crawled into my tent ready for rest!
We woke early on the edge of Wahtum Lake cold and slightly damp from the lakes humidity. There was also the harsh dry cough emanating from ChilliBins tent. Man shes got it pretty bad, I thought. It was only getting worse, but hopefully she could get some meds once we got into town.
We all packed up and let out in high spirits, knowing we were just 16 miles or so to the Washington boarder. It finally started sinking in, that the end of the journey was near. I knew there was still 500 miles left. However, this would only last about 3 weeks seeing hiking was now a full time 15 hour per day no weekedend career. I wont say job, because I could never look at this as work. Even though it is hard sometimes, you have to push yourself, your body, you must plan wisely, make big boy decisions, and all the chores that had to be done to ensure that you didnt starve or die from dehydration or some act of nature.
At any rate, we decended down from the large hill dropping like a rock into Cascade Locks. I had gotten signal and found out that Collin (a friend from work) who was hiking the PCT south bound was just pulling into town. I left my tracker off purposly so he wouldnt know I was coming into town to surprise him. Soon Sissyphus caught back up with Happy, ChilliBin and I and we all bombed down the hill togehter.
It was a bad burn area, I could only wish I could get my hands on the kid that started the Eagle Creek fire. He got no jail time and was supposedly charged 30 million. I didn’t think the verdict was hard enough. I tried to imagine how pretty it was before the fire and hiked on. Down down we went until we entered an area where the trees werent blackened to char.
WE all hiked on and chatted away, quickly decending and soon nearing town. You can always tell when you are close when you see day hikers (people that smell nice and look clean) and hear the sounds of cars on a highway in the distance. Finallly we road into town in high spirits. I found Collin and we all went to Thunder River for a beer, burger, and well deserved break. Later we set up camp at a local park and cruised around town getting chores done and prepping to walk across the Bridge of the Gods!
Collin: 23, from Seattle WA. On a sabbatlical from work as an Engineer, he is hiking the PCT with his brother headed southbound. After taking a week or so off the trail from a bad case of tendonitis, he is back on and feeling better than ever. Going slow in the beginning for injuries, but knowing the pressure of time pulling him to the Sierras before the onset of winter has him focused and ready for the task at hand. Tall and skinny, rocking a fresh new beard and a huge smile, he is super stoked, just to have the priviledge of being out on the trail. I kjnow hell make it to mexico with his determination!
I woke early and headed down into the lodge after packing up. I needed to go through my chores: charging, resupply food, get fresh water, eat some delicious hot breakfast, and somehow make it back onto trail.
The problem with these places is all the familiar smiling faces and chats w friends you havent seen for months just sucks you in. Sometimes you really do theed the rest, and other times you need to get out while the getting is good. Between Sissyphus reunion, followed with Happy and ChilliBin reuniting with me, TwoPack, Verde, Manza, ect ect . . . I finally gave into the fact that I wasnt leaving anytime soon. The upside was, I got to charge all my electronics and finish all my chores except washing clothes.
It was 7pm when Sissyphus, ChilliBin, Happy and I finally pushed out and walked the 3 miles to ZigZag Creek where we were to camp for the night. There wasnt much room but we made do.
Day 124:
We woke to the rushing creek and the sound of ChilliBins cough. She had been hacking since the smoke started in northern cali and it seemed to be getting worse. We all hiked out as she sucked on some losanges, hoping for a decent day on trail.
The trail reminded us what gain was all about as we had become complacent with most of the relaxed hills of Oregon. Climbing up and on through the trees we finally topped out and caught our breath. The smoke was back and any hopes of a good long distance view was dashed.
He hiked on, soon finding a good shady spot to chill and hang for a break. WE overlooked a valley and chatted on about possibly going to PCT TrailDays which is an annual event to meet hikers and gear merchants. I was hard pressed against going and didnt want to get stuck in a huge hiker bubble leaving town.
We pressed on, over the Muddy Fork river, climbed up the ridge on the other side and were once again consumed by the forest. It was blueberry season, and we were like little hungry bear cubs stuffing our faces in delight. We still neded to push miles, but between the breaks and the gazing at large moss covered pines, we found ourselves munching on the delicious succulant berries.
Finally we came to Wuhtum Lake and it took a while, but finally found a vacant camp spot on a thin beach boadering the lake Tired and watching the last of the light leave the sky, we took what we could get. ChilliBins cough had not gotten better in the day, but at least we were at rest just 16 miles from town and hopefully some good meds!
TwoPacks Blog: Teeheepct.blogspot.com
Study app: Cram
Podcast Reccomendations: Criminal – Exit network, All the time in the world
I woke and packed up my things quietly. Some of the people who were in their tents when I arrived the night before were still in full on slumber! I grabbed some water form the creek and proceeded to hike up trail.
Up through the forest I went until I ran into SmileyFace who was trekking along at nearly the same pace. We started chatting on about the trail and life before and plans for life after. Through the trees we went chatting on until we came to the edge of Timothy Lake. The lake was huge and the trail hugged its edge.
We soon came upon a large group of campers all trodding along heading back to their cars from thir overnight adventure. The number of kids rivaled the adults and it was nice to see them starting backpacking so young. We passed on and said hello as we did.
Next stop, Little Crater Lake. Just 1/4 mile off the PCT the beautiful lake lay hidden from the main trail. I first walked up not knowing what to expect, then saw the crystal clear waters going to deep deep depths. The lake itself could have only been 60 feet or so apart but it was 45 feet deep! A few trees had fallen in and I marveled at its beauty.
SmileyFace pressed on and I decided to nap for a bit. When I woke it was time to move and after a pressing up through the trees for a few more miles I came to a road where the Mad Baker, a trail angel, was all set up. He had snacks galore and a group oof us was gathered snacking down. I thanked him for his hospitality and moved on.
Back into the woods I went up a large wooded hill and back down the other side where at a trailhead another trailangel waited with fresh fruit from his garden. Man, what luck! I pressed on as there was only 5.5 miles left to Timberline Lodge.
The hill gained and I stridded along enjoying the grade. Openings in the trees sometimes gave me glimpses of the lodge up ahead. Finally I popped out into an exposed treeless area and I could see the peak of Mt. Hood! How magnificent! I trudged up a sandy bit of trail and labored on until finally the lodge came into sight. The camp area behind the lodge was packed with hikers and out of nowhere Sissyphus popped out! I hadnt seen him since Tuolumne Meadows and I was so excited! We hung out with Opera and Tapeworm chatting on and having dinner. It was a good darn day, and tomorrow morning, breakfast at the lodge!
I woke woke cold next to the creek. My alarm had gone off, but I was still tired and set it for 20 minutes later. Eventually I got moving in the chilly morning. To my surprise I didnt get on trail until 6:30. I woundered if I had somehow dozed off again in the alarm snoozing.
At any rate I pressed on up the hill until open meadows painted in golden light came into view. I could see frost on some of the wooden signs and a mistlike smoke rising from a nearby pond. It was an abnormally cold night, but made for a beautiful morning. I hiked up the next ridhe and looked back to see Mt. Jefferson in all its glory standing tall and strong with large snow passes covering its north face.
I continued on up a long ridge before finally gaining the pass. As I did, the first views of Mt. Hood came into view, It was spectacular. Shrouded in clouds at the base,and covered in snow at the top! I took some time to admire it and the surrounding deep blue mountains. I decended being swallowed again by the forest.
I bumped into a few day hikers as I went. It want until Ollallie Lake that I took my next break. To my surprise there was trail magicand a 2017 hiker named Kareoke was manning a grill taking on hotdog or hamberger orders. What an Angel! This was really a treat. After a burger, some chips, and a cold soda, I sat there in a comatose mode, but knew I had to move.
I finally got up said goodbye to everyone and thanked them for their hospitality. I slogged the next few miles like Frodo walking the last few miles to Mt. Doom. The short rests and not much sleep finally caught up to me. I found a spot near Jude Lake and had a nice nap for 25 minutes.
I woke aleart and ready to go. I stuffed some calories into my mouth and got a move on. The miles went quickly through the forest. Twisting trails, up and over long hills until I happened upon Jelly taking a break by a dirt road. I paused to chat for a bit, and found that we had the same target for the night, the Warm Spring River. It was only 3 miles away and 8pm, there was still about 45 minutes of usable light and I let out.
A blood red sunset on pale blue sky behind the trees. I watched as the light faded and I hurried. The next few miles were quick, but as I came to the river, I found that there was a plethera of hikers camped nearby. There hadnt been any places to camp in the last 3 miles, so I decided to stay worrying the next few miles wouoldnt yield much. I quitely set up, went through the motions and was soon in my sleeping bag ready for rest!
I slept in, a little celebration treat to myself for hiking to 9:45pm the night before so I could touh the 2000 mile mark. I woke cold and feeling damp. Once I pulled myself from my tent and packednup I realized a fog was starting to set in.
I hiked on, with my hoddy still on and zipped up. In the back of my mind I thought “Welcome to the Pacific North West” sarcastically. As I shuffeled on with my hot coffee in hand I started to hear the sound of cars on the approaching highway. Once I reached it, I met Stallion who was sitting there smoking a rolled cigarette, debating if he was going to go into town fpr breakfest. I bid him good luck and pressed up the hill across the highway. To my amusement there was a few boxes of wine left at the trailhead, I chuckled and went on.
The dead trees and the invading mist looked like what I imagine the entrance to Mordor would seem like. Although it seemed daunting at first, it was pretty cool. The white trees stood like skeletons amongst the new growth. The mist rolled on. Soon I met Dave, a section hiker who was trekking at a darn good pace and we chatted on for a bit as the rain threatened.
Wind kicked up and as we turned a corner, I found a little cubby for a snack and bid Dave good luck. I chowed down. After finishing the push up the ridge the other side seemed like night and day different. It was warm and th sun burst through the foggy clouds. Soon I heard the voices of 2 happy trail runners who quickly passed me by.
After a nice decent I came upon Rockpile Lake where Dave, his brother, and a few others were gathered. After a quick chat and a rest I pressed on. Soon Mt Jefferson came into view. The peak was shrouded in cloud and it looked pretty awesome! I gazed at it as the ridge drew me closer. Finally the trail turned and started a rapid decent, past lakes, down through thick trees, until finally coming to Milk Creek. Several hikers were there, filtering water and I felt crouded. After finding my way across I pressed on and up the hill.
The burn area I entered was impressive to say the least. It was singed black, although some growth could be seen. You would walk for a while and then hear a quick snap of a tree, as if there was a large animal nearby. Head snapping in the direction, there would be nothing, just the decaying forest looming back. I pressed on after gathering some water.
The sun began to set and I quikened my pace. I carefully crossed Russell Creek which had a thunderous voice and water crashed down that could easily sweep you away. Then I pressed up the final hill in darkness to find a camp, mostly full. I found a little flat pad near the creek and plopped down. I figured the sound of water would muffle me setting up, and soon after the nightly chores, I was in my tent ready for rest!
Hiker Profile:
Dave – 50s FromCentralia, OR. A section hiker and a self employed carponter, he and his brother are chipping away at the PCT. They hope to do the full push once the kids move out, but until then Sectioning will have to do. Hes a tall fella with a quick stride and a great ability to hold a full conversation in that full stride without wayning in breath.
In usual fassion ChiliBin was up and out of camp before Happy and I had a chance to get moving. It was a beautiful morning, Happy and I pressed on through the green forest until we were spit out onto the lava fields. It reminicent of Mordor.
It may of looked bleak to some eyes, but I thought it was beautiful! Being able to look oer the stretching landscape and explore in the laspse of an active volcanic site was pretty sweet! The rocks were sharp, black, and full of holes making them low in desity and light to the touch. We trekked on taking in the landscape and marveled at the trees that dared to grow here.
We turned a corner and met Baram who was from south Korea. After a quick chat we found out that he had hiked the AT and PCT, but re-started the tripple crown (AT, PCT, CDT) carrying a banner in memory of his classmates who died in a shipwreck just ooff the coast. We bid him good luck and trudged on.
IG: Baram304
The bright green leaves of the trees shown in great contrast to the black and red rocks surrounding them. We pressed though the final miles of the lava fields before coming to the road where Coppertone a trail Angel waited on us with cookies and rootbeer floats! I was stoked!
This is where ChiliBin and Happy departed my company. They planned to hitch into bend to get their resupply and some good beer as Happy knew a friend in town. I gave them both a big hug, said goodbye to Coppertone and headed out back into the lava fields alone. I hiked up a large hill through the percarious lava rocks. One wrong step would send you home with a broken ankle.
Finally the lava field let up and I hiked into an area that was once a forest but had been burned in recent years. It was trying to regrow but its a slow process out here. Finally I decended through the burn and found the turnoff for Big Lake Youth Camp.
I hiked in finding a ton of kids all running around and a good group of hikers all hanging out in the hiker hut. I charged up electronics, washed some clothes, took a shower, resupplied food and hung out with TwoPacks while we all waited for dinner. I came in a scarfed down the Potatow soup and fresh roles like a starving kid who hasnt seen food in a week. It was so good!
KNowing I couldnt stay forever I pressed on. I had 5 more miles until the 2000 mile marker and I was determined to get there before the day was done. I hiked on quickly as light was fading through the white ghosts of the dead trees. On and on I went until finally I broke out my headlamp as I entered a thicker part of the wood. Turn after turn I hiked faster until finally at 9:45pm I found the 2000 mile marker! I made it! Just 650 miles left to Canada. I started realizing how far I had come and how close the end of my journey was. I found a nice flat sandy pad and set up my tent. Fly off I could see the stars in the night twinckling overhead, along with Mars and Jupiter shinning bright. An awesome day indeed!
Reccomendations: St Fancis Pub in Bend. Must go to the broom closet!
We woke to a pale pink rose sunrise over the lake. It was gorgeous, but the clock said it was time to move. In usual fashion ChilliBin was out of camp by 5:45, Happy was off to take care of his morning business around the same time, and I was packing up in hopes to be on trail by 6. After a few miles of trekking I pulled over to talk to a tree about a dog and happy walks by my bag next to the trail and makes a good goat sound as he passes by. I return a call, finish my business, and get back to the trail. This was our morning routine, and it was funny how syncronized it all seemed.
I winded through thr forested hills. Some tuffs were covered in grass while others were made of jetting rocks. It was wounderful winding through them. The ponds from the day before continued to be on display trailside. I could tell thatt the ponds were rain water receptacles and there were no creeks feeding them. None that I could see at least.
Finally I caught back up to the gang as they were grabbing water from a creek. It was wounderfully cold and I filled my bottles. The next few miles meandered through a burn area and back into the forest before finally popping our to some nice good sized lakes.
We decided to take lunch lakeside, and it wasnt a dissapointment! Munching on, we chatted about the trail and the day, as well as our plans for the next few days. We finally pulled ourselves together and pressed on up a large hill that awaited us. Gotta pay the piper right?!
After the climb we popped out onto an open plain and 2 of the 3 sisters could be seen. There jetting rocky bodies towered over the surrounding area, treeless and rugged. I took them in with awe and my spirits were lefted. The next few miles melted away until finally I pulled ahead of the gang and happened upon the Obsidian Limited Area.
This very cool place required special permit (with exception to PCTers) where the Obsidean rock could be found littering the ground. I trekked on and in the distance the other follwed. Soon after finding some of this glass like rock and seeing how the Native Americans could have easily made weapons or tools from it, I turned a corner to find the Obsidian Falls.
It was gorgeous and all 3 of us couldnt help but getting in! The water was ice hold, but after the fridgid bite wore off the relief to the feet was incredible! WE took in the beautiful falls and finally pushed the last 2 miles to camp. It was a good long day, and once we made our camp we went through the nightly chores. The waterfall was a game changer, it really washed away any muscle fatigue of the day. Feeling clean and full we all found our way to bed!
We woke early and looked over the lake. Bats swooped low and skimmed the water searching for insects and scouping them up. It was awesome to watch, this way and that, even up to our camp perched on a high hill overlooking the cool waters.
Happy, ChilliBin, and I headed out after packing up. I waved goodbye to Smokebeard as I passed and followed the path that hugged next to the lake as I passed by. There was a bit of a climb through the wood until finally reaching the top a nice long decnent started.
Tree moss was everywhere clinging to the tall trees. They looked as though they all had shabby coats or nice long beards. At the bottom of the decent, just by Charelton Lake two groups of people were set up handing out trail magic! There was blueberry pancakes, soda, water, beer, chocolate milk, a slew of snacks and other goodies including homemade cookies. A large group of us gathered around and stuffed our faces like little homeless children on the streets of London.
I pulled myself from the merry crew knowing I had to get out now or be stuck for another hour. Exhausted, I slogged though the next few miles like a zombie. Im not sure if it was too many calories at once or the lack of sleep, but I was dragging butt! I stopped for a quick break.
The next few miles features lake after lake. Some of them werent very deep, while others were dried up all together. A few were deep enough to swim in, but I dedicated myself to making progress up trail and didnt stop for a dip. I did however, stop for a short snack break. Two rangers walked by and we chatted a while after I startled them when they werent paying attention to an unexpected hiker laying on the ground snacking away. They were both young , in theor 20s, and very nice. We said farewell and I started off again on the trail.
Soon the canopy overhead grew thick and the underbrush was lush and green. The bushy undebrush started closing in on the trail and soon found myself twisting this way and that. The lakes continued on, and soon a large once came into sight.
A guy named Tumbleweed was camped there and said Happy and ChilliBin were only a half hour ahead so I hurried on. Soon I came to Mac Lake where I found them hanging out just after a swim by the shore. I stolled u, chatted away, then went through the nightly motions before finally I found myself tucked away in my tent, ready for bed.
I woke in the morning to a mosquito attack. Its as of the ones the night before had alerted the hord and they aid waiting for me outside my tent. SunDown was in his twent next to me, boiling up water for some coffee and enjoying his morning routine.
I quickly packed up and with coffee in hand, headed up the trail. The forest was still thick here and the trees were covered in a light green moss. It clung to all of them it seemed, almost like bandages to a mummy in a classic cartoon.
I soon happened upon Summit Lake which I could see through the mossy trees. It was beautiful and the sunrise glinted across its surface. Dirt roads let to trail for campsites near the bank, and I pressed on through the trees.
Lilypad ponds upon lilly ponds were riddles in the forest here. At every turn it seemed. It was most definityly a mosquito paradise and my clothes and skin was smeared with far too many misquote bodies to count. I felt bad, but still sometimes you cant help the autoreaction.
Finally I started a long decent and after twisting down among the ferns and low underbrush I found my turnoff to Shelter Cove. I pressed on and crossed a really cool 1 log bridge over a wide creek. In about a mile I crossed some traintracks, and finally found a paved road which lead to the parkinglot of Shelter Cove. A slew of hikers were hanging out front and I knew most of them.
After greetings to HappyFeet, ChilliBin, Sundown, Happy, CoolRunnings, Photon, Tiny Slice, and many others, I ordered up a burger and beer. The usual chargin of batteries, brbbing food resupply and happy banter ensued. Soon after feeling renewed I put my shoes back on and Happy, ChilliBin and myself hike out.
Its always a nice feeling to get out of a town or resupply point and escaping the urge to stay. We pressed on, back up the road, to the small trail that eventually rejoined the PCT. It felt good and Happy and I went on debating about the possibility of sucessfully establishing unilateral wealth and its impact on a people. It always seems like the convos get deep haha. Before we knew it we were at Lower Rosemary Lake and setting up for the night. SmokeBeard, an old friend from the desert was camped nearby and joined up for dinner starting up a whole new debate. It was nice to chill out and chat on. Soon the light faded, and so did all our desires to stay awake. It was a darn good day, and we all crashed hard!
I woke to my solo tent site and went through the morning motions. Coffe in hand I started up the hill in front of me, skirting Thiessen Mountain. I soon happened upon MoonMan and SilverFox who were trodding along enjoying the morning views.
As MoonMan passed, SilverFox and myself chatted on at length about his sons, and what they did. His oldest was and Engineer and worked for Tesla, which I thought was great. Our chat turned to the trail and the terrain, just as he pulled off for a snack. I waved goodbye and headed for Thiessen creek.
The creek was rolling well in a nice tucked away valley that looked like it ran all the way up to the face of the jetting peak of Thiessen Mountain. What a view! I met LionHeart here, who I had never seen on trail before, and we chatted on for a bit before he headed our. I filtered water and soon TinySlice and Sticky Fingers came rolling in to grab some water.
I finished my break and rolled out after cameling up for the 20 mile water carry. The trail took off skirting the moutntains. Nats grouded my feet, hovering over the trail and I pressed through there little clouds as the trail winded. My spirits were much better today than the day before, and my body felt good. I breaked after some miles and threw my feet up.
The forested trail winded through with ease. There were some climbs and falls but for the most part it was pretty gentle. I rolled on along the next few miles, soon bumping into a big group of hikers all having their lunch. I knew most of them and I paused to chat before pressing on.
What a nice day, the breeze was good, temps werent too hot, and the trail was beautiful. I soon passed the OR/WA PCT high point and thought “its all down hill from here right?!” The twisted and winded and finally spit me out at a trailhead where a bunch of water jugs, some all the way full, waited for hikers.
Brown Streak, Tiny Slice, Sticky Fingers, and SunDown were all here hanging out for a break, refilling their water jugs. I did the same, and soon had my pack strapped on, headed up the hill. SunDown caught up and we started chatting away. Thru hiking, the PCT, AT, CDT, CT, Hayduke trail, Florida Trail, the list went on and on. We chatted about our experiences as we climbed the beautiful ridge to find far views of jetting peaks and soon large crisp lakes.
The next 7 miles melted away as we jammered on, soon we found a nice place to camp and plopped on down. I went through the nightly routine as was soon all sug in my bag away from the mosquitoes clinging to my tent walls. It was a good darn day!
Hiker Profile:
LionHeart – 20s, from Northern Germany. He started his hike in Seiad Valley, and hiked to Ashland, in which time he got some horrible knee pains. His inner and outer IT bands were enflamed and he took 3 weeks off to heal. Now that hes back on trail, hes taking it easy with 16 mile days, and has a great attidute, seems to be really loving being out on the PCT. “Enjoy Life” he hollered to me as I felt from meeting.
SunDown – 50s, from the Pennsylvania. Worked for HDD for quite a few years before finally selling his house, quitting his job and setting himself up to do the PCT, the Colorado Trail, and the TA in New Zealand. Hes already completed the AT 3 times, JMT 3 times, this is his 3rd PCT hike, completed the Florida Trail, and hopes to finish out his journey on the CDT. A wild man indeed, he says “I just love hiking”. I can tell I told him!
I woke to the alarm and I hit the snooze. I had stayed up far too late at our campfire chqatting on with hikers that gathered. I set it for 6:15 and rolled over, back to sleep. It seemed like only minutes and it was blasting again. I started to move and got myself together.
Pack on I said goodbye to the hikers left, which were pretty low in number, and hiked out. Happy and ChilliBin were long gone and hiked out solo. It seemed like a good day for it. With my hoody still on I hiked up the road and back to the PCT meandering through the green forest in the crisp morning air. I switchbacked forward and back, climbing a good hill before finally popping out to the rim of Crater Lake. I stopped in the Cafe and grabbed some coffee and water before pressing on.
It was a tourist heavy area, but the non-perfect conditions with the smoke probably drove many away. I walked to the rim and looking down felt something slightly like seeing the Grand Canyon. The lake was vast and beautiful turqoise green at the edges and a deep blue in the deeper parts. Wizard Island stuck out like a volcano within a volcano. It was pretty impressive. I hiked the rim trail and got to see Wizard Lake from all sides. It wasnt perfect visibility, but it was still specacular!
The trail skirts the lake for the most part, sometimes leading away and coming back. I wathced cars speed past and saw groups of people crouding near lookout areas. It was pretty nice, even when the trail broke away from the lake and meandered through open praries. I couldnt be more content strolling along.
Soon I came to a first water cache where the Rim Trail rejoins PCT, and I stopped for a quick break and a short well needed nap. I woke up and trekked on bumping into BearCub as I headed out (she used to be FancyPants in the desert). I chatted shortly and waved goodbye as I headed out. It wasnt long before I found Silver Fox, Conflicted, Tiny Slice, and BrownStreak all hanging out and chatting. I paused for a moment to say hello, and out chat continues as they got up and joined me walking.
Bearcub, just chillin. An old friend way back from the desert!
Tiny Slice and myself led out and chatted on abut his winter job as a ski lift chair worker and how he loved getting free ski passes for all the nearby parks. We chatted on and before long the final miles to camp melted away. There was a big group of hikers at the camp just after the next water cache and I stopped to chat for a bit. I decided it was too early to stop and I kind of wanted to get away from the crowds, so I pressed on another 0.5 miles, just before a large climb over a ridge. Here, just beyond the wilderness boundary I made my camp. It was a great day, and really nice to have experiences Crater Lake. I knew I would have to come back and explore this area in depth!
I woke early to a cold morning and I labored to get going. I had my hoody zipped up to my lips and I went through the motions and finally was standing palming my coffee in hands.
I moved slow as ChilliBin and Happy were already on the trail. It was a short 6 miles to the road that leads to Mazama. I hurried along through the pined lined trail. Soon I popped out and they both stood by the road waiting for me.
We put our thumbs out and started walking. By the time we got withing a half mile of the place we knew there was no cars coming and decided to suffer the last few miles on foot.
Finally we arrived! We sat down and stuffed ourselves at breakfast before heading to the general store and grabbed our packages from the post office. Hikers were gathered around the store and soon more started arriving. HappyFeet, Photon, SilverFox, the list goes on and on.
My friend Penguin’s back has seen better days!
Just as soon as we got ready to head out we lookedd up and realized that smoke rolled in. Looking at the situation we soon realized that we were going to stay the night and wait until the morning when the smoke was clear so we could actually see Clater Lake! We settled in and hung out with all the hikers after a really nice shower. The night wore on late ending in a fire and good banter between friends. It was a shor, but good day!
It was cold as my alarm blasted and I stirred in my sleeping bag. I didn’t want to move, but I knew the time had come an the “just 5 more minutes mom!” wasnt goign to work. Chilli bin was out of camp and both Happy and myself pulled doddled along.
Happy and I went on chatting on and on about all kinds of topics: the trail, the trail, Washington, gun control, differences in upcoming generations, all kinds of things. The Trail meandered through the woods and we were both taking our sweet time.
Before long I pulled over to call BooBooo Johnson, and Happy pressed on. I stopped for a good break and tried to see some good views through the smoke. After a few miles I caught up to ChiliBin and Happy refilling water. Breaktime again! We chatted on, then soon all pressed on our ways.
I felt in a daze for the next few miles, I was definitly still tired from the night before. None the less I pressed on. Finally I entered a large burn area that apparently had caught fire just the previous year. The soil was burned and it looked like sand almost. Only a plant here or there would grow in this area. We soon found a tree that had red sap seeping from it, it looked as though it was bleeding. Pretty cool actually, only slightly creepy!
Soon Happy and I were trekking together again chattin on, then turned the corner to see ChiliBin having a nice rest by the trailside. We hiked the last few miles together and finally found camp, surprisingly before the sunset! Going through the nightly ritual we all watched the sun lower to the horizon, turn big and red, and the briliant colors shown on the sky behind the burned dead trees. It was pretty cool way to end the evening!
ChilliBin was up and out of camp by 5:30. I was still shuffling around in my tent packing things into stuff sacks as she headed out. Happy was in the same boat as me, taking our time, just trying to get out of camp before 6. I was standing with coffee in hand just 10 minutes before, success!
We headed out, pausing at Grizz creek to grab some water to start the day. We continued our push through the woods, and I looked about noticing how many downed trees there were. The forest was beautiful as the golden sunrise made the green leaves glow.
Our first break came, and not too soon as my stomache was growling away. After another meandering stretch of trail we paused at Brown’s Cabin for water. There was a great large, old school pump that you manually worked up and down to get the water to flow. It was cold and tasty! We all set down at a convenient picknick table nearby.
We pressed on again, back into the woods and soon I noticed the abundance of blueberries everywhere. I paused and gathered some stuffing my mouth! Soooo tasty. Soon after we entered a lava rock area. The ladscape was covered in black volcanic rock, but the trail itslef was a nice red vocanic rock. I loved this section and cruised through happily!
We popped out at a road, grabbed water one more time from Cascade Canal, then took off for the 10 mile stretch to came. We were all taking our own pace in stride and enjoying the views. Soon I came upon Happy and ChilliBin breaking at the turnoff to Four Mile Lake. We chatted about our plan to camp in 3 miles just near the spring, and took off!
The smoke seemed to thicken and just get worse as we climbed. It almost looked like a deep fog rolling on from the distance. I made sure my mask was pulled up proper and pressed on. Finally we reached the Christies Spring and it looked like a hiker reunion, there had to have been 12 people hanging around. We decided to grab water and hike back just 0.1 of a mile to a nice campsite we saw on the way in.
Waving goodbye and heading back we soon found camp, set up, stretched, stuffed our faces, and all crawled our tired bodies into our tents, redy for some much needed recovery. Crater Lake National Park was within reach and we were all excited to see it!
Happy, ChilliBin, and I woke up late in the hotel room. There was no alarm set and it was alreay 6:30. We all pulled ourselves together and got down to the continental breakfast before headeing out to the road to try and hitch. With coffee and some muffins in us, we stood smiling as the cars passing, laughing at howthe two bearded guys in the group seemed to be doing most of the work.
ChilliBin laughed, but before long a lovely retired lady and her dog Higgins came rolling to a stop and opened up her car to us. We hopped in the Outback and were soon chatting on about our experience as we sped off towards the trail. We thanked her kindly, and were all stoked to get our feet moving!
The rolled on singing along to Elton John songs down the road before finally we once again entered the forest and the single track trail. It rolled and bounded. Up, down skirting hillside and traversing valleys. The woods were pretty, and after a stretch we came to our first pring of the day. We plopped for a quick snack and all chatted on, running into southbound hikers that warned us of the mosquitoes to come.
Pressing on Pilot Rock came into view covered in a nice thick cloud of smoke. I remember enjoying the prodominace of how it dominated the surrounding landscape. Once we circled around the back side we could see it has basalt columns that made up part of the formation. It was a beautiful formation.
We pressed on, winding through the hills before stopping at a resivior outlet, which was a small waterfall. We all plopped down and plundged our feet into the stream, it was a pretty nice treat. We had just 9 miles left, and after a nice break we carried on.
Winding though I could catch glimpses of the lakes in the distance. The forest would open to yellow grass fields and some smoke covered ridges could be seen from a far. I pulled my buff up higher over my nose and kept trekking. The last few miles started to grow dark as the sun was setting. Finally after using a bit of light I came to camp where ChilliBin and Happy were waiting and getting their dinners ready. I set up and went through my routine before diving into my tent. It was already late, but a good darn day!
I woke early as usual, only now I wasnt in my tent. Where was I?! It took a moment before my whits came back and realized I was sleeping on the Hotel floore of Happy and ChilliBin.
We all went about our chores, starting laundry, packing our bags, and getting trail ready. I grabbed a quick snack and blogged for a bit waiting for Happy and Chillibin to return.
We went to a place called Morning Glory for a full on breakfast. If you are ever in Ashland, make it a point to go, you wont be dissapointed!
One breakfast was done we rallied together, got all our things out of the hotel and headed for the postoffice. A day of chores was upon us!
Once done we went to a nice spot for lunch and we looked at each other exhausted at the efforts of running around town and doing resupplies for the next 3 stops.
I suggested we go back to the hotel and get in the pool and have a true zero mile day. To my surprise everyones spirirts were lifted and it was unaimous. It was a well needed rest and well deserved seeing I had been hiking 30 miles plus everyday since Tahoe (with te exception of 25 mile resupply days).
We went back, checked back in, and plopped all finally enjoying our time in town. The next day we would be back on trail, heading further into the interior of Oregon!
I woke later after the late night, and started packing up. After ready to go with coffee in hand I headed back towards the Oregon/California boarder to take a last look. As I did, Penguin, Flipper, Snacks, Tiny Slice, TrashQueen, and Froggy came rolling up to celebrate with me! (it just so happened to be Froggy’s bday!)
We got in a line like the 7 dwarves and rocked out. We cranked out the next few miles in unison like we were a platoon squaderent. We came to a spring and had a nice break where the jokes and bs of the day continued.
After the spring we started at our seperate times and speeds. I liked together, but it was also nice just cranking at my own speed, taking in the flowers when they came and the nice forest views. Smoke still lingered, but I tried to enjoy it the best I could.
After some miles I had a nice break on after pushing up a long large hill. I figured I had just 10 miles left to town and I though about juicy hambergers and beer. I cranked on, downhill and really started making up time. Through the valleys and twisting valleys I decended.
Finally I popped out onto a frontage road that lead to the I-5. I walked out, got my bearings, and soon threw out my thumb for a ride. Not 5 minutes later a lovely couple pulled over in a champagne blazer and hooked me up with a ride.
Before long I arrived at a Hotel where Happy and Chillibin were hangin out! I havent seen either of them together since Kenedy Meadows North. It was great to be back together and we chatted on over pizza and beer. Before long, exhuastion took over and I found some good sleep on the floore. Another great day!
I woke up next to the spring and got moving. As I packed my things away hikers started to pass my trailside accomidations. Most people wanted and early start to tackle the 4500 foot climb out of Seiad Valley before it got too hot. I figured id just keep my same old schedule and let the day roll out as it must.
Pack on and coffee in hand I headed up the hill. Flipper, Penguine, Snacks, Froggy, Tiny Slice, Conflicted, and a few others passed me in the morning. I was usually slow for the first 7 miles and taking on such a hill didnt inspire me to burn my legs out before the day even started. As I climbed I noticed the smoke was really bad. Not to mention that the sun came out in a red ball of flame to help kick up the humid heat.
I pulled my Buff over my face for a makeshift smoke mask and climbed on step after step slowly brought me higher, and hopefully to cooler temps than that of the valley below. Some of the trees were charred from a past fire, and half seemed dead. The dirt turned a deep red and it reminded me of southern Utah and all its beautiful sandstone.
Soon I came to the first spring of the day. It was cool and crisp, flowing at a good 1.5 liters per minute. Confliced was sitting at the branch where the spring rail went down and he was going on and on about how interesting the whole State of Jefferson was. There was a lot of signage in Seiad Valley supporting the movement. At any rate, the group of us chatted about Oregon, and our hopes of seeing it soon. California is a long state. Its 1691.5 miles of PCT long state.
I waved goodbye and headed out. Although the burn want the pretties thing, I could appreciate the beauty in it. In some places where the red dirt really stood out, the charred black trees helped to accent it. I winded through the hills, it seemed like I was always going up. Another spring came upon me, and I grabbed my fill. I was chugging a lot in the warmth of the smoke hidden sun.
The afternoon was upon me and I was humming along, picking up speed as the afternoon cooled. I turned corner and thought I heard music. I paused and realized it was the bells of a group of cows! My arch enemy! I crept closer, hoping they woud scare off, and too my amazement, they bolted at the sight of me! I turned the next corner and the group that had passed me in the morning was all set up for camp.
We chatted for a bit, and I announced I was going for the boarder. It was already 8pm, just an hour or so left of light and I still had 4 miles to go! My work was cut out for me! I cranked on, the grade wasnt too bad. The smoke persisted and blocked any chance for vistas. I cranked on,as the light fadded going quickly throught the woods. Finally I broke out my headlamp to finish the job. Twisting and winding, I started to get tired and then . . . finally, after 110 days, 1691.5 miles and a whole lot of hard work, I touched the boarder! It was a beautiful thing!
I hiked a bit more and found a spot to set up for the night. Tired, I put my tent up, made dinner, and cracked a celebratory beer! Man, just under 1000 miles left. Its funny to think back to Campo CA and where I started, the day I started. It seemed like such a long time ago. Well either way, it’s far from over!
You dont always know who you’re sleeping next to . . . or sometimes you do, and just don’t know it!
I had got into camp late the night before. All 3 people there were already asleep so I set up and went through my nightly routine as quickly and qietly as possible. In the morning I woke early as usual and started to pack up. With my bag on my back I noticed that 2 of the 3 were still in bed and probably woulnt have known I was ever there. The third was getting ready just a bush away. As he rounded the corner I noticed it was Bearcan!
“Hey man!” I exclaimed in a wisper. We were both delighted to see each other, and I didnt think I would ever catch up to him. In our excitement I looked over and noticed the person cowboy camping sat up, it was JellyBones! The guy in the tent was Trout! It was so crazy to think I camped next to all 3 people I knew and also was trying to catch up to. We chatted on shortly and Bearcan and I hiked out.
The mornings miles went quickly. The air was cool, the pines were pretty, and we chatted on as the trail seemed to take us as a roller coaster through the landscape. We stopped for a quick break and water before pressing on. Bearcan was in a hurry and wanted to get north quickly so he headed off. I said I’d catch him Seiad Valley.
The trail dive bombed from the nice temps at 5000 feet down to the bomby, humid climate od Seid Valley at 1300 feet. There was smoke in the air as well. It seemed to just get thicker as I decended. The canyon I was decending was lush and green, tons of ferns, plantlife of all kinds, and of course blackberries! I found a few bushes and paused for a while stuffing the tasty sweet morsels into my mouth.
After exiting the bottom of the trail I saw Penguin and her group (Flipper, Froggy, Tiny Slice, Snacks, and TrashQueen) just getting dressed after a swim. I wished I had time to dive in, but I wanted to get to the store before they closed at 7 and there was still a 5 mile roadwalk ahead of me. We chatted for a bit and I pressed on.
Soon Froggy caught up with me and we chatted on, walking the last miles quickly into town. The store was a little beat up and there were The Great State of Jefferson signs all about the place. It was interesting, but they had food that I needed and a place to charge my battery bank. Bearcan and the rest of Penguins group all assembed outside, chatting on and getting new food stores for the days ahead. We were all buzzing about Oregon being in reach.
The group pushed out, and hoping my battery would charge more I stayed until 9 before hiking out. I hiked in the dark 2 miles up the large climb. The first camp I came to had 2 tents and not much space. The hikers were already alseep, so I decided to hike on. Just a quarter mile later I found a spring and a flat spot where I could put my tent. Bingo! Within minutes I was set up and crawling into my tent. What a good day!
Hiker Profile:
Froggy – 26, from Columbus Ohio, and most recently Denver CO. A fun loving, and very particular fella, he enjoyed history podcasts and generally just learning about theworld around him. After a breakup with a long time girlfriend, he decided to hit the trail and sort things out. A quick hiker, he speeds on the downhills and whistles as he does it.
Podcast reccomend dation: The stuff you missed in history
I didn’t sleep very well at all. Tossing and turning every 30 minutes it seemed. None the less, I woke and was off at a usual early start. I hiked on without my coffee this morning, as I was none about. There were no eggs and bacon either, so I couldn’t be comlpaining that much. I hiked up the hill from camp and soon noticed there were 3 hikers behind me.
This annoyed me. I dont like people I dont know hiking behind me, so I picked up my step and pressed on. At the time I only had 1.5 liters of water and it was a 14 miles stretch to the next source if I didnt pick up any at the next creek. Being so stubbord and annoyed by the hikers I forgot all about topping off and hiked right past the creek. I realized it by the time I got to the road.
A paved highway lead to Etna, which I had opted to skip over by grabbing a few extra days food from Mt. Shasta. It was a good thing too as the road looked like a ghost town, save a lonely hiker waiting for a car to come speeding by. I bid him good luck and pressed on, trying not to think about water.
The climb came shortly after and I tried to sip sparringly at the life fluid in my bottles. The trail was chunky granit and on a down after the climb it finally let up to a soft red dirt. It kept switching back and forth like the trail couldn’t make up its mind. I was tired from the sleepless night before and it was starting to show on me.
I mouth was dry and I was down to 0.5 liters. There was a spring just up trail, however it was 0.5 miles rount trip off trail with some gain involved. I wanted bady to skip it, but the next water was 3 miles after and I had already been rationing my water until this point. My mouth pleeded for a sip, and I allowed a small one, just enough to fight off the drymouth. Suddenly just a mile before the spring turnoff I found a very small trickling seep coing out of the wall. Most anyone would have passed it up thinking it wasnt worth the time, but I grabbed a leaf nearby and went to work. Soon after 3 minutes or so I had a full liter of water and rejoyced!
I pressed on and soon bumped into a tail crew hiking along with old school gear, obviously headed to a new camp setting up their next work spot. I passed and thanked them for their work. After a mile or so more I came to a creek, had a snack, and a much needed nap. I was starting to stumble around from exhaustion and my pace was sluggish and slow. I needed a reset button.
I woke refreshed, threw my pack on and headed up trail. Soon I bumped into Cougar and we chatted a while. The usual, fires, why we are here, where we are from, what we did before this. We chatted on until coming to the next spring where we collected water. She decided to break and I pressed on and up the next big climb. Up and down and up again.
Finally I dipped into a valley riddled with marble rock which was also lush and green. I soon found the creek that was feeding all this growth and filled my bottles. Swan came around the corner and we chatted on as we filered, watching a nearby deer munch on grass. I said my goodbyes and pushed the last 2 miles to camp. Whew, finally made it. Shoes off, tent up, food done, and lights out. A good day indeed!
Hiker Profile:
Cougar – 42, from Seattle. She graduated Mechanical Engineering, but worked for the Navy on Nuclear Power plants. She loves quilting and discovered this when she worked at a fabric shop in her teens. Always facinated by the trail, she finally said she needed a break from work and made the time to make it mappen. She usually hikes with her partner Hurricane, however he is currently a long way off trying his hand at he Ledville 100 race. If she can get to cascades locks in time, she plans to fly out and cheer him on. A very nice lady indeed!
I woke as usual and went through the morning routine. It was like breathing at this point. I could pack up everything, have breakfast and coffee in hand, trail ready in just 30 minutes now.
I hiked on and up the hill I started the nigth before. As I got close to the ridgetop, I heard a bellowing from below sounded like a cattle in distress. I listened and woundered, then started walking. Again it sounded, loud and echoing across the valley to my right. I have a wierd thing about cows. I dont like them much. That, and they kill 10x more people than sharks do per year. Im just waiting for “cow week” to start. I pressed on hoping I wouldn’t run into them.
For the next few miles, little springs and creeks popped up regularly. It was nice to see the plants clinging to the cool water. I filled my bottle and kept on trekking.
Soon, as I came into a red rock mountounous area, I noticed a trail crew working away. I said hello as I passed and thanksed each of them for their hard work. They in turn thanked me for walking the trail, which I thought was the lesser of the 2 deeds. But I guess one needs the other.
Smoke filled the valleys in the far view and I began to wounder about the wild fires in Oregon and potentially Washington. As I dropped into a valley, all my worry was wiped away with the strong smell of cows. I walked in hesitation with my head on a swivel. I could see their tracks going this way and that. I was hoping they wouldnt be gathered at the next watering hole that I was countng on to fill up. The smell dissipated bit and as I drew nearer, to my relief, no cows. I filled my bottles and plopped for a quick snack. A small mouse was running around a tree nearby, scoping me out, then as soon as seeing I was alert, went running around the other side.
I trekked on and soon ran into Brunchrunner who was my first run-in with a hiker on the day. We chatted on and on about where we were from and the wildfires ahead. Soon we came to a creek and I stopped for water as he let out.
The trail started to climb, and it was a good one. It seemed to go tirelessly up with no sign of relaxing. The only relief was a light wind blowing. I pushed myself and enjoyed the breaks as they came in dips in the trail. I could soon see far ahead into the hazy distance. The smoke made the ridgelines into silouettes, and it looked pretty cool.
I stopped for a final break and soon after made the final push. The trail went up and down skirting a ridge, and for the last 2 miles seemed to go straight up before finally letting go at a nice saddle. The views were great and I rolled through the next few miles of burn area with ease. I came to the runoff of Paynese Lake and decided I had gone on long enough for 1 day. I set up my tent, ate dinner, stretched, and crawled my tired feet inside for a much needed slumber. It was a good day!
Hiker Profile:
BrunchRunner, Mid 20 from Oakland CA. He says Oakland isn’t all that bad of a place to live, and actually really enjoys it. He was a Software Engineer, and worked in San Diego for some time. While there he would go to mountain towns where he would hike and backpack around. During these weekend excursions he would regularly meet PCT hikers on the trail. The seed was planted and now hes here to see his dream come to reality. Hes thinking of moving to Portland after the trail and still longs to see a Bear.
Be alone in the woods sometimes, it’s good for you.
I woke and went through the usual routine. I filtered water from Porcupine Lake an was surprised to find how warm it was. I packed up before the rest of the crew had even stirred, and I let out on the trail.
I would see glimpses of the morning sun, but being blocked by a ridge left me curious how it looked on the face of Mt. Shasta. As I followed the winding trail I saw quite a bit of smoke in the air. I assumed it was from the fire to the south. I even smelled the burning wood, which meant it could be close. I pressed on listening to the song birds before coming to a short rest at DeadFall Creek Spring. I filled my bottles with the cool clear liquid and scanned the surrounding ridges while eating a second breakfast. The Hobbits had it right, I though to myself.
I packed up and headed on bumping into a few day hikers as I went. A guy and his grandkids, a man by himself, and a man with two kids who were telling me to be ware of zombies. I laughed and said I would as I trekked on. It wasn’t long that I came upon the trailhead they emmerged from.
I trekked on and winded through the woods as I watched birds fly and chipmunks scatter at the sight of me on the trail. I came to yet another spring and had a small break while kicking my shoes off. A pair of blond bearded brothers, wearing almost the same thing hiked by. I said hello, but neither looked in the mood for small talk, or big talk, or any talk for that matter.
I pressed on and enjoyed the long stretch with open views. I crossed paths with a green mojave rattlesnake, who looked like he had business of his own. And a baby bird who looked as though he was too young to fly and the nearby parents were either scolding him, or me for being too close.
It wasnt until the last few miles of the day that I bumped into Anarchy from Aulstralia. We chatted on as we both hiked down towards Hwy 3. He went on about his crew he was hiking with and why he was here. He seemed to really enjoy the atmosphere on trail. As we got to the road he headed off in his own direction for camp, and I kept hiking on.
After a mile or 2 I found a nice spout trailside, just a few miles from the next spring where I steaked my claim for the night. I hadnt seen much of anyone all day long, but I wasnt complaining, sometimes its nice to have the woods all to yourself!
Hiker Profile:
Anarchy – 20s from Aulstralia. He came to the states to hike the PCT for the social experience. Trail Angels, Trail Magic, Towns easily accessible, other hikers the same age, and a while sub-culture of people just out for a long walk across the Untied States. It called to him, and he answered. After his trail friends dfound out he carried a womans deoderant that was called Anarchy for Her, he got his trailname!
I woke early and got myself moving. Tank, Dingo, and Dingos partner had already left the camp and I wasn’t far behind. As I climbed I soon found the manzanita seemed to dominate the landscape. It lined the trail and kept it company when hikers were away.
I started what others referred to as a dreaded climb. It was humid out, warm, and the air was thick with smoke from a nerby fire. No great views with the smoke, but the jetting Crags of Castle Crag could be seen through the haze as jagged teeth of the menacing mountain. It did look pretty cool and I snapped a few pictures.
The climb was long and hardy and my legs wayned under my backpack laden with 5 days of food. It was a price that sometimes you had to day! I trudged on and soon found a break in the grade and shade in some trees. I plopped for a break and soon Mouse and her friend joined me for a quick snack.
It was time to move and I pressed on and up the hill, it seemed like a forever gain until finally I came to a spring and stopped for water after the 10 mile dry stretch. The weight of the food and water made me much slower than usual. But the good news was I had fresh fruit in my bag and the thought of a nice apple or orange made me forget the weight, at least for a time.
I pressed on, and up again. I soon come to a came where at least 10 hikers had all taken a lunch break and afternoon nap. Not in the mood and needing to get some miles in, I pressed on. TreeBeard followed me out and we chatted on as we walked the ridge. He was an interesting fella, and really was glad to be out in Cali enjoying the mountains.
I slogged the next miles slowly and I felt like a slug, it was still a beautiful day. However, I had started to heard thunder in the distance, and I watched and the hug pluming clouds gathering. There was 1 more short beak at Picayune Spring before I pressed on for camp. The hope was Porcupine Lake, but the thunder continued to draw nearer.
Closer it came as I hurried on. I saw a large number of hikers setting up not too far after the spring, but I wanted to get a bit further. The light sprayed through the clouds in some areas and I could see rain falling in others across the valley. Then I felt it, the first drop of water had hit my shoulder. I hurried on faster and finally got to the lake turnoff as the rin started coming down harder. To my surprise Tank, Dingo, and her partner were there all set up, tucked away in their tents.
I set up quickly and by the time I dove in the tent the drops seemed to gain in size and fall more rapidly. It was only a short spell, but after making dinner and stretching in my tent the rain seemed to drop off. I wasn’t in the mood for a wet night, but the air up here was much cooler than down in the valley. I thought back to all the great views of the day and my favorite were of the building storms. Another good one for the books!
Hiker Profile:
TreeBeard – early 30s, from Laguna beach. Hes held quite a few odd jobs, including running a WOLFing farm in Hawaii, being a fire catcher at festivals, and a surf instructor. Super nice and friendly, we chatted on about his different jobs. His main stay is helping out his disabled dad which he has been doing for some time now. He was solid enough to be left for a few months at a time so he came out to hike! Free spirited and a hell of a good guy!
I woke up warm, just 3 miles from the road that lead to Mt. Shasta city, and I was undecided on my plan. After hiking down the hill and finding my way to the road, a lovey lady and her dog came to a hault by my side. She rolled her window down manually and asked if I needed a ride. “Heck yea!”, was my only responce.
Martha and Mo had made my choice for me between Mt. Shata and Etna for places to resupply. I was very grateful and we chatted on during the ride into town.
I thanked her as she dropped me off at a bakery which had some awesome coffee and great food! Afterwards et up will JellyBones, Trout, Ketchup, and SugarMan at their hotel where we all caught up and I returned Jelly Bones knife, which somehow ended up in my posession.
The next few hours were full of going around town and trying to see if I could find a ride to the base of Mt Shasta, the actual mountain. After hours of trying, I relized I’d have to hitch all the way to the next town, then somehow hitch up a dirt road. I decided getting back on trail and finnishing was more important.
After resupplying I went back to the Climbing gym where hikers were camping out, and met up with Tank who I hadn’t seen since Tuolumne Meadows. We chatted on about our common friend Noodles who decided to leave the trail. Its sad, but it happens. Afterwards we both caught the 6pm shuttle back to the trail.
Soon my feet were back on dirt again and I pressed on. Up and up it seemed (maybe I was just tired) until I finally found the camp just beyond the wilderness boarder. I set up, made dinner, and was soon fast alseep!
I woke to the alarm and started moving. After packing up and seeing Tank had gone, I pushed on. As soon as I did I looked over to see a deer had walked right into camp and was munching on some small plants nerby. With felt still on his horns he looked to me without a care in the world and just went on about his day. I hiked on.
The trail sweepd through the landscape with the ease of a skiier down rolling hills. It was beautiful and canopied in. It was a world of canyons and hillsides hidden away from the light and I drank it in. Moss covered treed, and rocks were everywhere. Large rock outcroppings would sometime jett out from the trees and landscape as if forced. I crossed the bridge over the McCloud River and really enjoyed its influence on the terrain it touched.
I soon came upon Disnay and we chatted a while as we both decended. We went on about why she was here, and what we both did before the PCT. We soon came to a creek and stopped for water fillup and a quick snack.
The creek gathered in pools before dropping a short 10′ over the edge to a large awaiting pool before. I filtered water as we chatted on and stuffed some Cheetoes in my mouth. After the break was done I said my goodbyes and headed out just as JustMatt arrived. “Hey man!” He exclaimed and we chatted breifly about where we camped the night before and what our plans for on the day.
I trekked on alone and twisted and winded before finding the next water source: Squaw Valley Creek. I went down to the waters edge to fill my bottle with cold water when I found myself peering down into a 6′ pool of crystal clear water. I couldnt resist, in a flash my clothes were off and I let out a loud woop as I jumped into the rejuvinating water. How invigorating and I urged a few other hikers to come as they passed the brudge below. Zero, Shlowmo, and Disney joined in just as I had my fill and started getting ready for the next stretch.
I waved on and the trail turned upwards. Pushing long and up I followed passing only Thomas who I met a few days back, who was sitting trailside waiting out the heat. I pushed to the top of the climb and plopped down for a late lunch. Soon JustMatt caught up and we hiked the next few miles together chatting on just as a beautiful view of Mt Shasta covered in clouds slapped us in the face. We staired in woulder.
Soon JustMatt was off to get to the hightway before dark and I decended the filan miles to camp. I paused for a moment, only for waterbefore bumping into Shlowmo and Zero again. We chatted on as the final bit of golden hour was upon us and we all looked at the forest in appreciation. I found my stop, set up and , ate dinner, and clambered inside my tent hiding from Mosquitoes. I instantly noticed how warm it was once I stopped moving and knew it wcould be a hard nights sleep. All the same id take as much rest as I could!
Hiker Profile:
Disney – Early 20s from Seattle. She started her journey from Kennedy Meadows south and hiked through the Sierras until Kearsarge Pass where she exited from effects of exhaustion from altitude sickness. She got back on in Mammoth and has been trekking ever since until her family picker her up at the OR/WA boader where she plans to go with her family to Disneyland for a vacation. She works in the Software tech industry and is thinking of going back to school for Law. Perhaps shell become a DA one day, changing the law for the better hopefully.
I woke early to the alarm doing its thing. I was groggy and never even heard the first one. I turned it off and sorted out that I was half way up Red Mountain where I had hiked the night before in hopes to get cell signal, but to no avaeil. I did the morning routine and was soon on my feet padding down the trail.
I was like a slug this morning. Not in any hurry, and just taking my sweet time winding through the mountains. Pretty flowers lines the trail and soon I found brigth red berries! They looked great but I dare not eat them. I was hoping for more recognizable berries in Washington to be ride and ready by time I got there!
I rounded a corner and views of Mt Shasta slapped me in the face! I expected it to be pure snowcapped, but it seemed like this season it shown some of the rock veins running all the way to its peak. I plopped for an early break and gazed on.
Once again I was up and trodding down the trail. I kept leep frogging with a tro group. Id pass them for some miles, then I would stop for a break and they would pass me right back. After the 3rd or 4th time it just became comical. I soon stopped for water and found a gang of hikers piling up. The Trio, Fuji and Jupiter, and Just Matt. I had met Just Matt the day before, but as we filtered water it was our first time to actually chat. We went n at length about work ideals and what we were doing here. He seemed to be in the same “I quite my job for the PCT” crowd as me. It felt nice to find the few kinsmen out here with me.
I pressed on and was lost in the twisting trail for the next few miles. I would pop out to a beautiful vista of peaks in the distance all covered in pines, then the next minute be walking through vined lines paths twisting through the forest.
After a final water stop, I filled up and decided I would press the remaining 9 miles to my camp and water. My feet had started to hurt, and several times in the day I forced myself to stop and tke my shoes off. I had 2 hot spots (starting of what could become a blister) on the pads of my feet. It was strange that this would happen now so far into the hike. The light began to become golden and hide in the north/south canyons.
I turned a corner and a brown deer on the trail bolted diwn just a few feet below looking at my inquisitively, not scared enough to full run. I walked on and pressed the final miles to camp at Butcher Knife Creek. Soon as I walked in I saw Tank and Opa, 2 friends I last saw in Tuolumne while waiting on 2 packages that never came. We chatted on and caught up as the light faded. I soon saif my goodnights and grabbed water and went through the nightly routine. My tent was just near the creek and I could hear the water rushing on. It really wasnt a bad spot, and definitly a good way to end a day!
Hiker Profile:
Just matt – Early 30s, from Berkley CA. He worked as a Copy writer for a marketing agency. He would help choose the words in an add, website, magazine, you name it. His girlfriend of 4 years is back home holding down the fort. His father died some years back just before retiring and he watched his unrealized dreams for retirement never given the chance to happen. He decided this wasnt goign to happen to him and you only have one file to live. He cashed in his 401k and helps pay for rent on his apartment and his trip on the PCT. Sometimes it just calls you. Tall and lanky he zooms up the trail and has dabbled in running, it seems to suite him and help his trail game!
I woke early as usual and got moving. The barking dogs of the night didnt keep me awake, but when I did get up my sleeping bag was wet. I wasnt sure if it was sweat or humidity, but its wasnt a great feeling. Coffe in one hand and a PopTart in the other I hiked the trail through the spider web of forest roads in the area.
The night before I began to feel a little heal pain right foot and it persisted today. Since pushing from Tahoe and the change of terrain, all these new little aches and pains have crept up on me. I try my best to just hike through telling myself its just adjusting to the new rythm. I be beopped through the twisting trail and I could soon hear the 18 wheelers roar on hwy 89. I was getting closer to the State Park, and the Falls.
Soon after crossing the road I entered State land and kept on trekking until I found the turnoff to the Falls. To my surprise Fugi and Jupiter were still there about to head on after checking out the natural wounder. I had a resupply box at the General Store and had to walk in. I said goodbye and headed towards the store.
Soon I saw BearCan who had already been there for an hour and told me the store was closed until their power was restored. Gah! He was on his way out and I waved on as I walked the last steps the store. I looked left and I saw n other than Ladybug himself! He was sitting with his girflriend Camiel and friend Connor. We chatted on and caught up since we hadnt seen each other since Tuolumne.
I grabbed my box from the store after sweettalking the lady glairing at me from behind the CLOSED sign. Afterwards I chilled with Ladybug and crew. Noon rolled around and I realized I had been there for 3 hours, and with a full resupply it was time to get up trail! I said my goodbyes and headed out.
Soon after winding through the woods I crossed a huge dam that was fed by Lake Britton, just north of the falls. I took in the views and pressed on. Soon I found a ridge and my next water source. There was a group of hikers hunkered down underneith, hiding from the hot sun. I grabbed water and pushed on, not wanting to waste any more time.
Soon I met Sweep, who had a harroling tale about his pack getting stolen at the Old Station Fill Up. I felt bad for the guy, and it was such a bizzar occurance, you almost dont know what to say to it. WE pressed on and chatted on for a bit about the trail and what we did in the default world. Soon we found the next water source and Thomas rolled in with a few other hikers follwing behind him.
We all chatted on and soon let out for the next water source, Thomas and I hiked together and chatted on about climbing and what life would hold post PCT. Its always interesting to hear peoples thoughts on what will happen after.
After filtering from the next stagnant pond I then pressed on alone. The golden hour was upon me and I loved this time of day. I trekked until finally emmerging to an open view clearly seeing Mt Shasta in all its glory! Pilgram, Mouse, and JustMatt were hanging out taking it in. WE chatted and I finally pressed the last 2 miles to camp that I set up as the last onces of light from the sun faded from the sky. Another great day, padding on the trail!
Hiker Profile:
Sweep, 30s, from Florida. He was a contractor working in construction before coming to the PCT. He had a Gregory pack and had everything dialed in before stopping off in Old Station. He put his pack down onthe picknick tables out back to go inside just for as minute. Soon a car with 3 people pulled up and they scoped out his pack one at a time before the last one grabbed it and they jumped back in making a speedy getaway. Sweep had missed them by moments, and when he realized what happened, was devistated. He said “I felt like I wanted to Cry and Puke at the same time” I felt for the guy. He hitched into Reading and went to an Outdoors store where he dropped 1500 getting new gear. To top it all off he had just gone through a breakup with his gf just 2 weeks ago after not being able to make the long distance work. He in the midst of trying to forgive and forget, putting the whole thing behind him and moving on.
Suppliment Suggestions: Glucosamine, glutamine, multi vitamin, branch chain amino acids.
Thomas: 20s, from Columbus Ohio. Paint cars for a living and wants to get into climbing. He hiked the AT in 2015, the PCT up to Lake Taho in 2016 (had to come off trail after a shoulder injury), and is now back in 2018 to finish the PCT from Tahoe to Canada. He feels like his people are out west and all outdoorsey. Not many people in Ohio have his lifestyle or knack for trekking, so post PCT hell be looking for a new home.
In the morning I woke and got moving. Packing up and taking in the sunrise I looked over to see BearCan also up and getting ready. After going through the morning routine I let out first and said goodbye.
The weather was perfect and the open planes were welcoming sight. The sage brush and manzanita lined the trail as it skirted the Hat Rim, just on the edge overlooking the Lava valley below. I pressed on for a few miles before BearCan came barrelling through! He was on a mission and I wasnt about to get in his way. I was easily mozing along taking in the wildflowers, the ladybug like beatles, the bugs, and of course Mount Shasta in the distance seemingly covered in smoke. It was fire season after all.
After trekking for some miles on the rim i passed a few roads. One of which was supposed to have a large water tank (Cache 22). After walking up to the large tank, I noticed it was empty. It wasnt later until I found out there was a smaller tank for hikers to use.
t had already started getting pretty warm and I started calculating the distance and time to the next creek. There was 13 miles and I had about 1.5 liters. I would have to do and I set out back hooving away at the trail. A few miles later I met a trio hiding in the shade and they got up to hike as oon as I passed by. I hadnt seen anyone all day and greeted them accordingly. A little while later I found myself a nice shady juniper tree overlooking the valley below and took a break of my own!
It was hot, around 100 degrees but I had to eat something to keep my body firing on all cylinders. I stupped some crackers and gummy worms down my gullet and sipped on the warm water in my bottles. It wouldnt be long before it felt as though it were boiling. I finish up and dropped into the valley pressing hard and trying not to theink fo the heat. Open grass meadows with yellow grass and trees springing up were all around with lava rocks to boot.
The next few miles dragged on, but funally I came to the creek I most despriratly needed to keep me goign. The water was cool and the 3 fellas I saw earlier were breaking nearby. I chatted with them again and finally pressed on. The scenery totally changed and I was in this lysh Oasis. There were lakes with life abound: birds, squirrel, geese, pelecans, it was all around!
After taking in the scenery I trekked on through the trees until coming to Berny Ranch turnoff where BearCan and myself planned to meet. I pulled in and saw Fuji and her boyfriend who had some from Holland to trel with her for some time. We caught up before I went and checked out the Ranch. There was lemonade, burritoes, showers, laundry, and a store to resuppply. I got clean, did some laundry and stuffed myself before deciding I sitll needed a few miles before sleeping.
BearCan and I pushed out tpgether after charging our battery packs as far as we could in the time we had. We trekked the next few miles as the sun set, and after I got my 30 miles done I set up camp. Bearcan had bigger plans and decided to press a few more before calling it quites. We said goodbye, hopefully ill see him again before all this is over!
Hiker Profile:
BearCan (Vincent) 22, From Montreal Canada, he is a huge foodie, even goes as far to listen to podcasts about food during the day (dangerous move out here haha). He studies Political Science and has taken a break to hike the PCT. When he goes back to Canada he plans to immerse himself in some food oriented courses which will drive him towards his passion. Hes a native French speaker, short in stature to the average, but is a ball of energy, hikes fast, and has a great sense of humor. Always cracking jokes and has a good time, but is very serious about his hiking and pushing himself to meet his finish goal date.
After the hard mental day I had the day before. I needed a win. And of course, the trail provides. The day started out simple enough and the grade was a cool rolling chillfest compared to the last few days and I really needed it.
I glided along in the morning light before finally coming to a large burn area. I am not sure why, but it seemed to be more deer travel than foot travel! I trekked on and it reminded me of some trails in arizona, a little bit of home to cheer me up. I looked up and saw a healthy deers bounding along headed away from me. I soon passed a nice big lake where I grabbed water from the next few miles.
There seemed to be almost no one out. I only ever saw 2 day hikers on the trail and bearCan was somewhere behind me enjoying a slow morning. The burn area soon turned to pines and manzanita and I plopped down for a quick break. Cool whisper of wind through the pine tops was so welcoming and I enjoyed every minute of it.
I pressed the next few miles through the froest and soon I could hear Hat Creek in the distance. I was fine on water, but for some reason the creek sounded so inviting and cool that it made my mouth dry. I soon arived at its banks and plopped down for lunch just as BearCan pulled up.
We chatted on and chilled out before pushing the last 7 miles to Old station. There we grabbed a nice lunch from JJ’s including a tasty burger and a cold beer. Grabbing some food from the gas station would hold us for the next few days and we pushed out for the next ridge.
It wasnt long before we had gained a large plateau that overlooked the valley. It seemed that as soon as we did the fireworks went on display. The sunset was incredible! We found a great spot just on the edge of the cliff and took it in as we ate dinner and watched the sun dissapear behind the moutnains. What a way to end a much needed great day!
Quite. This was the first day since I set foot on the trail that the idea entered my mind. It was like a small mouse that finally found himslef in the cleanest house on the block with an all you can eat buffet on the dining room table. It all started with a last alarm and setting off from camp half past 6am.
BearCan and I had just hit the halfway point the night before and were determined to get pretty far into the Lasson NP. The goal was 34 miles. I set out as usual, and the day before I had sent a message out to friends to send me some music (as I had none and hadnt listened to any on trail to this point) just to have some motivation when the batteries ran down. After finagling for some lengthy time, I got it to work and put on some of the new tunes. In trekking down the hill we went through a tree cutting area. I got to meet one of the guys, who asked me about the PCT in passing and he laughed when he heard about people dropping out in the first 2 weeks. His name was TearSow, and his hard working stature, face covered in sweat and wood chips made me think of what hard work it takes to do such a job. I could have put an American flag behind him and he would have been a perfect poster for some working man’s magazine. After chatting I said goodbye to him and his black and white dog and headed down the trail.
The music was nice for a bit, but I felt like my mojo had run out. I just didnt have the push, the drive as usual. I tried to call some friends when I had signal, quite a few no answers. It seemed like a lot of little things that didnt matter were adding up. Somewhere between the strange headspace and th 8 back to back long miled days my body finally said no. It didnt want to go, my legs hurt, my feet hurt (later I though of the scene in Happy Gilmore where Ben Stiller was being abusive to the grandmothers nitting blankets), and I started mulling all the reasons I was out here over in my head. I thought about being tired, and the heat, the cicadas song reminding me it was hot, and my head pounding. I thought about Arizona, and red rocks, climbing, hanging out with friends and family, cooking a real meal, ice cold drink in my hand and just relaxing in a hammock, going to spend time with my girlfriend. It was not a great place to be, and on top of it I had a splitting headache. I had been chugging water, thinking it was dehydration, but no avail. Just quite . . . I heard the whisper again.
I stopped for a break under a bridge with BearCan and 2 others. I noticed how snappy I was, just very irritable. I trekked the next 5 solo, and tried to enjoy the views. I went right back to negative town, and finally I thought about just going home. It was a wierd head space to be in, and finally after reaching the next spring, making some food and chugging water and some vitimin I, I finally started coming back to life. I then started thinking about how long I had longed for the chance to be out here on the PCT. How this was my one and only chance to complete it, how I would have to try an explain my reasons for stopping early, how I could be at work right now still just dreaming of being out here in raw gorgeous nature.
BearCan let out and I finished my break with my shoes off. Finally I got up and started trekking like normal again. My feet still hurt a bit, but appreciating the views and the privilege I had to be out here finally pulled me back in the game. I put my gameface on, trekked the last beautiful hill towards camp that awaited up by a nice creek. We got there by 8pm, first time in a while since camp came so early. We enjoyed it, and were soon fed and in our bags, getting ready for the oncoming, well needed, slumber!
I woke early and packed up. Pocket Rocket was up in her tent putting her things away as I waved goodbye and walked out of camp. Still no BearCan (Vincnet). I trekked on and enjoyed the morning hike alone. I crossed the creek that I slept next to the night before and began the long grind up the mountain.
On the way I passed a fella named Macro who was sitting by a tree enjoying some coffee and going on about hiking in really late the night before. I said hello and twisted up the gain by the winding trail. Finally I popped out on top to find 3 tents near the Butte Mountain summit with sleeping hikers. They must have had a late night too as the sun must have been shinning on them for a half hour now. I went to the true peak, plopped down on a rock and had a snack. After a nice long break hikers finally began immerging onto the peak. Pocket Rocket, Macro, Patches, and Finally BearCan!
I was glad to see he made it fine and we all chatted on as we hiked to the next spring to get some ice cold tasty water. Apparently he had hiked just before my camp figured we would meet up the next day.
The next 7 miles to the next spring was a slog! Everyone dispersed and hiked their own pace, somehow I found myself in a stooper just slugging along. My legs were tired and I had zero energy. At one point my feet hurt so bad that I had to stop for 5 minutes just to rest them. I pressed on and finally arrived at the turnoff for the next spring. I dropped my bag and began to decend the 0.3 miles to water. It seemed so far in my mind. When I finally got there BearCan has lugged his pack down and was having lunch. We chatted, I grabbed water, and headed back to my pack for lunch. Soon Patches and Macro showed up and we all chatted on before I headed out for the long push to the half way monument!
Off BearCan and I went rolling through the hills and taking in the sights. After a few miles, from the side of the trail I heard “GoatMan!” I turned to see who it was, and it was HotBunz! Him and Bones were the two hikers did the 24 challenge and I hadnt seenhim since Casa De Luna! We caught up quickly and I said goodbye as I rushed along to catch up to BearCan. We I finally caught up we were on a good climb. The last big hill of the day. It was one heck of a haul and after some good huffing and puffing we saw Pocket rocket’s camp. Of course we stopped and chatted and she told of us her horrible DEET explosion in her pack and how half the things in there were melting. Ewww
We pressed on, and after 3.5 quick miles we finally founf the MidPoint Monument! It was a really awesome moment, and with a cracking of brews and opening of Doritoes we celebrated the milestone (literally). After signing the register we walked just 0.6 miles and found camp where Navagator (from South Africa) was camped. We joined on some nearby pads and soon after food and shooting the shit we were all in bed sleeping like babies!
Ive noticed the run ins with bear and deer have most definitly spiked in northern California. After settling into my sent I could hear something in the darkness fumbling around, cracking twings, and running away once scarred off. I was silly and had my food in my vestibule. I was so tired when I came to came and there were so many other hikers camped there, that I thought no bear would come close. I was wrong and assuredly would be better in the future.
I stirred at 12 and again at 2 and 4, hikers were waking up and packing up to leave. I was pretty surprised to see the sheer number of night hikers, I guess everyone has to get their miles their own way! I packed up and was soon trekking on the trail w coffee in hand. Not 0.2 miles later I found Vincent who was just finnishing his brekfast! He told me about his run in with undoubtedly the same bear I heard the night before.
It was time to move and I boogied on up the rest of the hill. Finally the forest gave way to long vistas and I could see some granite ourcroppings with ranges of pine covered mountains in all directions! I could even see some snow on a far peak to the north, I was curious if it was shasta, then hiked on. Twisting through the open brush covered terrain I finally made it to the dropoff towards Belden and started down. I saw Vincent and a few other hikers as I decended. The heat started to rise and by the time both Vincent and I got to the bottom, it was roasting!
On the walk into town, we saw this very cool tiny house, build on the back of an old ford. Big glass windows, hardwood floores, and a huge queen sized mattress pulled the whole thing together. It was pretty cool! Once we reached the resturant nd gneral store, we re-uped on food, grabbed some lunch and a beer for the road. After a quick nap and some time with our batteries plugged up, we were ready to go!
We pressed on, it was 5pm and we hoped to get 8 miles in before camp. The heat was on, and we were both determined to make good time! We trekked on, first just skirting the trail that followed the river, then finally turning north where the trail really started gaining quickly! It was on and we both were throwing the hammer down, keeping in sink step by step. The sun bore down on us fully and the humidity of the day didnt help. After a few miles Vincent pulled over and let me take the lead. I hit the Arizona button!
I keeped on pressing our same pace the whole way up the climb, in spite of the blistering heat. Sweaty as all het out I kept pushing, passing anyone I saw on trail. And after a while I didnt see Vincent. WE had already planned on a stopping point together, and Vincent is a strong hiker, so I didnt think twice and kept going in my groove. I trekked pn and up through the heat until finally I entered the protective canopy of the forest.
The temp cooled quickly and after grabbing some cool water by a creek flowing over the trail, I felt my heat lower. It felt good to trek solo and I rambled through the pretty woods. Ferns, moss, trees of all sorts, it really was a little slice of paradise! I kept trekking until finally I had reached my camp for the evening. I set up tent and waited for my friend. One German and 2 Polocs came into came, but no Vincent. I cooked dinner, stretched, and chatted with my new friends over dinner. Still no Vincent. I hope he didnt get sick on the hike up, or worst twist an ankle. I guess no sense in worrying until I see him next. Finslly in bed I dozed off, tired to the core, looking forward to another great day!
The day before was a late one, so i decided to delay my alarm until 5:20 (Woohoo really sleeping i haha). At 5:10 I heard a twig snap near my tent. I woke thinking that Vincent was up and starting to pack up. I looked over and there was no light or movement. I looked again and saw a large dark figure about 5 feet below Vincents tent. I raised up on one elbow to get a better look. As I did I realized it was a cinnimon collered bear about the size of Vincents tent.
The bear heard thesound from my sleeping pad as I raised up and looked right at me. As soon as he noticed me he tuked tail and ran. Whew, what a close one! Once Vincent woke up I told him about what happened and he was all smiles!
After the jolt of the morning, it was time to get going and there was 1 thing on Vincent and my minds, Feather River swimming hole! We were a short 13 miles that was mostly downhill to the river and we were excited to see what was boasted as one of the bet swimming holes on the trail. I pressed on from camp having bye and started my assault on the downhill.
As I twisted and winded through the forest, I began to smell a very aromatic flower that reminded me of a magnolia. I searched to mind no tree, but ever time I smelled it, I would find a bush that looked much like an Azalea bush. I took note and some pictures before hiking on.
The heat started to rise as I decended towards the river. I could hear the Cicadas song of summer started up and I knew it was getting got. I twisted and winded and finally a large bridge spanning the river came into view and soon saw 4 or 5 hikers in the water below. I hiked over to the river bank, dropped my stuff and got in. What a treat!
This was so refreshing, the water wasnt too cold, the cliff jumping was awesome, and everyone was in high spirits! The group all hung out after the swim and had lunch. I did a little laundry, and enjoyed the break in the sun. Unfortunatly, it was time to pay the pipper.
We had decended to 2900 feet to get to the river. The climb on the other side would bring us to 5800 feet. Of course it was the hottest part of the day to boot! I finished lunch, packed up, and was soon huffing it up the trail. Big up, little down, and a big up twisted me through the woods. The humidity was up and I was sweating like no tomorrow. When I finally stopped for water it was a welcome break. Slippy (Az) and OneStep (UK) were there and we chatted on about Arizona and the AZT.
Once again I pressed on further into the pine forest, which with the gain came a little cool air for relief. The views opened up and we soon came to lookout rock. Most of the guys were headed to a trail Angels Cabin. Vincent and myself had another 10 miles to go and it was already 5pm! Although gorgeous, the miles werent going to hike themselves!
I pressed on, and after winding through the woods solo I popped out to a road wherer I had just missed some trail magic. Darn! I pressed on and soon found the Rolling Stoned group (large group of 12ish hikers that rolled together) and reunited caught up for a minute. Looking at the sky and the fading light, I said my goodbyes and pushed the last 2 miles before camp.
I was most definitly the last to roll into camp and there were not many spots. Apparently this was the most popular camp in the woods! After a good long 15 hr day, I was tired and didnt care where I slept. I found a spot, plopped down, made dinner, stretched a little, and crawled my beat butt in bed. Tomorrow is another day, and the miles can wait until then =)
I was stirred from my sleep. It ws midnight and I was warm. I tossed and turned. My head was aching and I chugged water thinking it was from dehydration. I layed back down and still, no sleep. After finally taking some IBuprofin and stairing up at te stars, I coaxed myself back to sleep. The 5am alarm blasted as if it were just 5 minutes later.
I felt grogy, but fought through to get the morning routine complete. I saw Hillbilly hike by as I was finishing up, and soon after I was on the trail. I hiked up and on, taking in the views and noticing everything was muted by a thick overcast sky. Despite this, the neon green moss popped as though the pines were wearing fancy diner jackets. I trekked on, soon finding Hillbilly, and then Vincent. Vincent was packing up and LadysFirst went zooming by with a huge smile, talking about having a record day. We waved him on and I set off after chatting.
You were either deep in the wood, or out on a hilltop. I zigzagged through the woods solo, trying to enjoy it. Somewhere in me was sluggish, either from the lack of sleep or the overcast day that begged a melloncolly attitude. I trekked on, soon after stopping for water at Little Jamison Spring I saw Vincent, 2 othersw, and finally Hillbilly. We all chated on, I complained about being a slug, then threw my pack on and hiked out after the crew.
It was a pretty solo hike from here, twisting and turning through the pine forest. Wild flowers, downed trees, birds out to play, it was all in the mix. And then . . . it rained. Or sprinkled at least! It was a welcomed change, id rather have rain then overcast all day. I hiked on pressing up the hills, it seemed to be a lot of up/down for supposedly being “easy”. I ained a big hill to find Bryan, a hiker that I met in Sierra City the day before, all set up for camp just hanging out. I said hello and we chatted a bit as I plopped down and had a final break before my last push to camp. He told me about his time in culinary school, and how he loved to cook.
After I was done with my snacks, I knew the 7 miles I had left were not going to wait on me as the light faded and I pressed on. I twisted and winded through the forest, popping out onto a large open ridge taking in the sight before being swallowed by the forest again. I padded on, feet against the nice trail until I popped out at a road, seeing a brown Jeep and Vincent sitting nearby. “Hey man!” I esclaimed, and we caught up as the 2 guys in the Jeep offered me a beer. I took it happily and we all chatted.
It wasnt long and we were off again. Vincent an I trekke the remaining 2 miles to Alder Spring, set up camp, and stretched before dinner. There was a fire going by a section hiker named Billy D and a few of us gathered around as the last spirts of light faded from the sky. I crawled into my tent, beat and tired, ready for sleep!
Hiker Profile: Bryan – Early 20s, from Salem Oregon. He got a late start in the desert and had regular 100 degree days. He decided to skip ahead to Kennedy Meadows South and has been trekking on ever since. He was trained as a cook and has been wokring his way up from the bottom, hoping to one day have his own food truck. If he were home, he would cook the following meal for his mom: Appetizer: Guac & Chips, 1st Course: Mushroom risotto and Grilled asparagus, 2nd course: BBQ ribs, Dessert: Strawberry Milkshake. It sounded like heaven on earth to me!
I woke early as usual and got moving. I loved the early morning starts. Something about being on the trail alone with little sound except the forest waking up and enjoying all the ways the suns light played off the landscape was awesome. Today was no different and i decended the large ridge I had gained the night before.
Down down down I went until I could hear the sound of a rushing river draw near. I continued to hike down and the creek just became louder. The canyon I was decending into was lush with undergrowth. Pines, bushes, ferns, the list went on and it seemed as though it was a nestled away little haven. It reminded my of Crabtree Falls VA.
As I hiked through the tranquil canyon, a hum of engine broke the peacefullness. At first I couldnt tell if it was cutting trees or clearing rocks. Once I was near enough the unmistakable sounds of a bucket grating rocks becme distinct. I trekked on quickly and was soonin the shaded veil of the mountain, listening to the road far below. I continued to decend the canyon and the canopy shaded me until I came to a bridge far above a rushing river. I could see it cascading downand a large group of hikers were by its banks hanging out. I had no time to chill, so I pressed on to the road ad was soon walking towards town with my thumb out.
A nice woman with 2 dogs picked me up and dropped me in the city center. I thanked her and soon was enveloped in having breakfast, greeting friends I hadnt seen in weeks, and finding my resupply box in the bck of the general store. I sat outside catching up and chatting on (Downward dog, Weezer, Napolean, Hillbilly, Matt (Trail Dale), The Muffin Man, both new and old friends were there) as I went through my chores. I had set a time to be leaving down . . . it expired. I set a later time . . . like hitting the snooze button I deferred it again. Once 2pm rolled around I knew that if I didnt get out I would be trapped! I gathered my bag and my Hiker 2 Trail sign and stood by the road.
I found Weezer, from the Mt Whitney day!
Soon the gal that ran the coffee shop in the summer picked me up nd dropped me at trail. It was time to move and the gain was certainly hardy! It took off up through tree covered switchbacks for some mies before opening up to a manzanita grove and switchbacked under the open sun. Soon I caught MotherHen, Calisi, and SpiritKick all trekking up the hill. We said hello and after some good sweat all met the ridge. I stopped to chat and after a short break I took off down the hill towards camp.
I paused at a creek for water and continued to pad down the beautiful hillside until a small horse camp came into sight. Hillbilly and Bearcan (as I started calling a new friend Vincient that I met in town because he still has his bear can) were set up at a table and informed me the price to stay was 24$. Holy wow! All three of us decided to push on and soon after some quarter of a mile I found a sutable spot. I was almost 9 already and I was way behind getting camp set up. Finally the tent was up, food in my belly, and soon snuggled in by bag waiting for sleep to take over!
I woke feeling pretty well despite the 3 alarms I silenced to get a little more sleep. I packed up quickly and was moving on the trail before 6. My pack was on the 3rd day of resupply, so it felt light as a feather. I cranked on, watching the golden light spill through the trees.
Birds “danced” in the trail in front of me. I say danced in the nicest way to say copulating. I chuckled a bit and kept hiking on. I could hear the roar of the interstate as I neared it. Even at this early hour, cars and 18 wheelers rumbed past. The PCT went under the Interstate through some nicely layed tunnels and I soon popped out on the other side.
The morning was my most favorite time, not many hikers out, the golden hour is on, and you can usually see some cool wildlife. I kept on trekking pausing for a moment as a guy named Goldie came walking by with his phone playing music audibly. I hiked on closer, thinking he was changing songs, before finally I recognized the tune and realized he wasnt listening to music, he was watching Star Wars. I laughed out loud and asked him. He admitted it proudly and I passed him, leaving him to his movie.
Soon after cranking down on a good pace I started decending a hill through the pine forest and I happened upon 2Plated and Condo, a british couple I hadnt seen since the desert! We chatted on and carried on down the trail to keep the mosquitoes from feasting on us. After stopping for water I bid them farewell and hiked on.
The next section was a constant swap between flower covered mountain sides, pine forest, and ridge top vistas. I couldnt be more happy and a few of the vistas reminded me of trekking on the AT in Virginia.
I rolled on through and soon stopped at a creek to fill water. There were a few other hikers around commenting about a 10 mile stretch without water. I thought back to the days of the desert and knew northern cali could be just the same. After saying goobye I pressed on through the thick green woods an again twisted and turned through the valleys and mountains.
Finally after grabbing water under a vehicle bridge near the Jackson Meadow Campground I started to gain the last ridge before my final stop. I could see Jackson Meadows Resivoir from the ridge and enjoyed the vista. I soon met a nice fella from North Carolina named Hillbilly. He was really chatty and very nice. He went on about how he had trekked the AT in ’99 and how much he has been enjoying the PCT. Especially all the great trail magic that he was so fortunate to come upon!
We pressed the final ridge together, and I soon found an overlook with the perfect pad for my tent. Hillbilly took off towards his own site and left me to set up, cook, stretch, and crawl my tired butt into my tent. What a great day! Just a few more miles to Sierra City and a whole new bag of food!
Hiker Profile: Condo (Wayne) + 2Plates (Danielle) a british couple in the mid 40s who after mutiple trips to the states doing road trips and hiking treks, they decided to set their sights a little bigger. Having been all over the west and dabbled in the east they settled on the PCT to test themselves. 2plates was an elementary school teacher, and Condo was a Controls Engineer for a contracting company. Both deciding life is to short to be wasted sitting around have made the best of it, sold their house in 2010 and have been creating experiences for themselves ever since!
The alarm blasted and it was time to move. I stood from my tent to see the first glimpses of light across Lake Tahoe. It was lite up in orange from the light and reflected it full on. An awesome view to wake up to, and I hoped the rest of the day would yield the same.
As I packed up and trekked out of camp I was greated by the flowers the seemed to follow me all day. The wildflowers, yellow, red, whoite, orange, speckled the fields through which the trail cut. The tall pines continued to tower above and I pressed on up and through the ridgeline. You could see for miles, the Lake below and the mountains ahead, it was really a sight to see.
I soon happened upon Nightwalker who was just standing after packing up his bag. I said hello recognizing him from North Kennedy Meadows and we chatted for a bit as we both let out on the ridgeline. We chatted on and took in the views. Soon I came across the first of 3 skiing areas I would find that day. The lifts stayed still in their dormant state. I trekked on and soon after plumitting down the backside of a hill I began to run into Flip Flop PCTers. I was amazed at how many I bumped into. I counted 7 in a 30 minute stretch. That coupled with all the new faces I had not yet met made an impression on the sheer number of PCTers I found on trail that day.
I kept pressing on, through the wood, and across the mountains. Soon I knew I would find Truckee and towards the end of a long day I crossed highway 40 where I met Stitches, chilling by the road waiting on friends. We chatted for a bit and I debated on going to a Ski Resort for some dinner. Deciding the mile were a little more important than more money spent on cold brew and a meal, I pressed on. The granit in this area was so interesting and I thought about climbing it. I turned a corner and saw 2 climbers, roped up and simuling a chill fun looking climb! I said my hellos and chatted in passing. How I missed pulling on rock. Besides people back home, I missed climbing most.
I pressed on soon finding a stagnant lake that I filtered from. Only a few miles left before camp I trekked on admiring the Granit faces nearby and dreamed on about climbing. I rounded a corner and soon found a nice little flat spot where I pitched my tent and started up dinner. It was a long day, but a good one. I hoped tomorrow would bring the same!
Hiker Profile:
Nightwalker, From Grass Valley CA, hiked a 160 mile section of the PCT in 2017. Now hes back to take on the full thing. Post PCT, he plans to go to Japan for a 750 mile trail. Just celebrating his birthday in South Lake Tahoe he has been enjoying seeing family and friends as this is his stomping grounds. He treks with a light pack and fast. His stride is short like mine, but he takes it on with a pizzaz that makes him fly across the landscape.
The alarm becconed, and after silencing it twice I rose. I went through the morning routine, all the while fighting off the inesscent mosquitoes. I finally stood, breakfast in had, pack on my pack, ready for trail. I waved goodbye to Dragon who I met the day before and took my leave. I started up the hill and soon found the trail gained the back side of a large ridge.
The sights were awesome from the top, I could see the mountains in the distance and all the valleys harboring their alpine lakes. I trekked on taking in the views and soon passed over Dicks Pass. Dropping like a rock I descended, until skirting Dicks Lake and soon re-entering the lush forest. The trail twisted and winded through the woods and sometimes would give way to views of granite gradure.
I only passed 2 Tahoe Rim Trail hikers in the morning, and I was happy to accept the solo hiking. I trekked on through the twisting woods before 3 ultralight guys gained and passed me. I plopped down for a nice break overlooking Velma Lakes and admired the views. Before long I pulled my shoes back on and was soon padding down the trail again.
This was the story of the day. I would trek for a few hours, until my feet cried like dtired dogs, and I would give them a break and snack on. Soon throwing my slightly lighter pack back on and padding once again down the dirt trail. At one such break I met Guru, who was from Portland OR. He was married and she came out to visit a time or two. Today was his first chance in some time to press on beyond 25 miles since the desert. He was lanky and had a bounding gate, it was easy to see he could crank out some speed if he so desired. We chatted on for a bit before finally I grabbed my bag and pressed on.
The forest began to show signs of moss as it began to appear on the huge pines. I couldnt help but admire it, and soon with the backdrop of Lake Tahoe, the views seem to demand respect! I walked in awe for the next few miles, taking in all its beauty as the sun began to drop to its golden hour. Guru’s gang seemed to stop short after finding a nice campsite, but I wanted the rudge, and pressed on for it. The gain became hardy and the switchbacks kicked my view back and forth giving ne some pretty awesome vistas. I finally gained the ridge, and tired from the long day, went through the routine of making camp, cooking, and stretching my tired body. It was a good long day, undoubtedly tomorrow woukd bring the same. Or at least I hoped!
Izzie arrived on Saturday afternoon after a long 9 hour drive from Utah. We then spent the next week trekking around the Desolation Wilderness, and the Lake Tahoe. Fireworks from Tallac, kayaking to Roubicon Point, SUPing to Fannette Island in Emerald Bay, Backpacking to Eagle Lake, Velma Lakes, and Fallen Leaf Lake, it was a good week.
I said my goodbyes as she dropped me off at the trailhead where I would once again get back onto the PCT. It had been a week since I put footsteps on the dirt trail and I greeted it like an old friend. Pack heavy with a full resupply I trekked on. Within a mile I came the the highway 50 crossing. Cars zoomed by at great spead and I bided my time until finally I found my break and soon found myself back in the protection of the forest and the padded trail.
The trees and lush brush welcomed me in open arms and after some quick work I found myself at the trailhead for Echo Lake. There was a store and an abundance of hikers and boaters. I grabbed some last minute provisions and got on my way.
There were tons of day hikers and Taho Rim Trail backpackers all on the trail. It was alarming to the point of overwhelming with the numberof people I ran into. After pressing on to some serine lake views I calmed back into the rythm of padding my feet on the trail and went to work. The views were grand and the lakes just kept on coming. Lower Echo, Upper Echo, Aloha, Heather Lake, Susie lake, and finally Gilmore Lake where I would stay for the night.
n the trail just befor Gilmore I met Dirt, who was a flip flop hiker. He bailed from the Sierras, got a hitch to Oregon, then started hiking south. Once he reaches the town of Indepandance, he plans of hitching again and finishing his hike from Oregon to the Canadian boarder. We chatted for a while and went on about northern California and what I had ahead of me.
I pressed on until seeing the golden hour begin and decided to stop at Gilmore Lake to rest for the night. I et Dragon, who was a retired Powerplant worker, was our here to enjoy the long haul. He too had a long layover in South Lake Tahoe and was excited to get his feet back on trail. I set up my tent, stretchedm, ate, sipped a beer from the Echo Lake store and setted in for the night. Its time to push some miles, only thing between me and the Canadian boarder is the limit of how fast my feet can carry me.
Hiker Profile:
Dirt: A flit flop hiker from Michigan. He has a good 1500 miles under his belt and as soon as the Sierras is done, will be headed back northbound. Very nice guy, welcoming chat and loving the trail. Were getting close to that 50% mark and its strange to chat with theoe remaining hoping to press to the finish.
I woke early, not to an alarm, but just to the sound of birds chirping away in the trees around me. I didnt have to move, but I was excited to get to town and get all my chores done. I went through the usual morning routine and was soon on my feet chatting with Quill for a moment before pressing on.
She planned on just going in to Tahoe for a day and coming right back out after resupplying and sending some food forwards. I on the other hand was meeting Izzie and some other friends through the week and wouldnt be getting back on trail for a whole 6 days. It would be a good break, and seeing I was almost 50% complete with the trail miles, I though it would be appropriate.
The morning was beautiful and the light poured through the green pines. This was one of my favorite things. The golden hour as sun rose and set, something about this time was just magical. The mornings were typically still and filled with chirping birds and the only real sound of russling was my feet on the trail. I trekked through, decending from camp towards the trailhead where I hoped to hitch.
I soon happened upon Lorax and Firefly who were on the same mission. We chatted on and I found out that they had met the year previous on the AT and were hoping to be tripple crowners . We all exited the trail and walked out to the highway where we threw out out thumbs and hoped for the best. Quill soon joined us and we all tried our best not to look too grungy.
After 20 minutes of trying, simultaneously 2 cars pulled over and we all piled in. Jason was Quill and I’s newly found friend and he chatted on about Tahoe, his work, and his return from a month long vacation in Germany. A super nice guy, he dropped us both off and waked as he took his leave. It was chore time and I sat at a Dennys recalling the last few days and making my plan for the week t come. I was pretty excited to explore the area with Izzie, and find my way into a new pair of shoes and a new sleeping pad!
We were just 12 miles from Carson Pass, and Hamms, BandiLegs, and Jelly Bones planned on stopping here for resupply and meeting up with SilverFox who offered up his cabin to a bunch of us for the night. I planned to press on an additional 13 to Hwy50 where I would hitch to Tahoe and hopefully get some much needed gear replacement.
After another chill morning Jelly Bones and I hiked out together continuing the chat from the day before about where we were from, climbing interestes, family life, and what we hoped to achieve after the PCT. It was a really nice day, and before we both knew it day hikers started to come into sight. You can tell a day hiker by how clean they look and the way they smell (So fresh and so clean clean!!)
We soon got to Carson Pass where some free snacks and sodas awaited us at the Ranger Station. Everyone was smiles and we all took turns weighing ourselves on a provided scale. Having to press on I said goodbye to the crew and hiked out as they stayed behind attempting to get hitches into town.
I pressed on up the next ridge and after some good gain found a beautiful plateau and a lush green valley greeting me. As I hiked further I found day hikers, Tahoe Rim Trailers, and PCTers alike. They were all out the enjoy what the forest had to offer. I soon saw Quill after some miles just grinding on in her own little world. “Hello!” I exclaimed and we caught up from the last time we camped together and went on about how we were both ready to get our resupply, and a good coffee.
We pressed on at our own paces until finally dive bombing off the front side of the moutain we had just climbed which gave way to granit boulders and waterfalls. It was a cool spot and we both decided to call it home for the night. There were a few other hikers who trickled into the camp and after some dinner, stretching, and watching the light fade from the sky above Lake Tahoe, it was tome for bed. I crawled in my tent, and like a tranquelized beast, fell asleep.
I woke early, yet no one in seemed to be in a mood to get going. After pulling myself from my tent I could smell a campfire nearby. Hamms and Jelly Bones had started up a small one and everyone slothed towards it with breakfast in hand. Probablly one of the most chill mornings thus far!
After sitting around and playing the “would you rather” game for a while, I threw the final effects into my bag and was standing ready to rock and roll. I headed out strolling through the trees and winding through the trails. A good gain finally brouhgt me to a saddle overlooking a lush green valley ahead. I had no idea what to expect after the Sierras, but apparently, this was it!
I trekked on bopping around snow patches before Jelly Bones caught up with me. “Hey there brother!” pulling her best Hulk Hogan/Macho Man impression. Straight cracked me up, and we rolled on chatting about the trail and life back home.
Lakes were abundant and the creeks that flowwed across the trail were perfectly clear. We stopped for a snack after another climb and a pretty sick view ovwelooking the landscape to the east. Volcanic formations, pine forest, mountain lakes, and lush valleys were abundant. Other hikers trekked on by and we chatted about the Tahoe resupply plan.
We pressed on, winding through the forest and soon saw a road in the distance. On the other side of the road was a big tent and a nice man named Chipmonk manning the griddle. “Wahhhoooo” I let out a big woop. I hadnt seen trail magic since before the Sierras and a huge group of hiker were gathered, munching down on the charitable feast laid before them. Man it was nice: eggs, chili, bananas, cereal, orange juice, and piping hot coffee. I had no complaints and we stuff ourselves before thinking Chimpmonk profusively and pressing on.
Pressing on, playing leap frog with Bandilegs and Hamms we finally found a nice spot away from the mosquito invasion that started to rear its head again. Cowboy camping on a great view, we slept like logs before the dawn of day woke.
We woke and gathered our things headed back to Kennedy Meadows North Resort for some breakfast. I threw my clothes in the washer and headed in for breakfast. Something about it was really relaxed and laid back.
Happy and Chilibin joined me for the delicious breakfast and we chatted away. Once dinner was over I was on a mission to locate the shoes and sleeing pad that had been lost in the mail. Soon after sorting out the adulting, I made my way to the back porch and we all just hung out and relaxed. I was supposed to get back on trail, but I didnt really need to be anywhere in a hurry as Izzie would be meeting me in 5 days and 75 miles. Pretty chillin.
As people rolled in, and old crew I hiked with for some time started to trickle in. Silver Fox, Jelly Bones, Photon, Cool Runnings, and quite a few others gathered in. We caught up and chatted and the longer I sat, I knew I would hae to push out that night. There was an itch to go.
A decent group of us hitched: Hamms, BandieLegs, Jelly Bones, Cool Runnings, Photon and we hiked a mile into the trail, set up camp, and eventually crashed out.
Day 75: Wolf Creek
We all woke, going through the usual routines and were soon moving on trail. The day was pretty chill and the trail rolled on through the gorgeous landscape. Mountains in the distance, jagged rocks overlooking lushgreenvalleys, and the morning light doing its thing.
Jelly Bones and I trekked on together chatting as we went, catching up since I hadnt seen her since she got off trail for a film festival. We cruised on through the forest, crossing creeks as they came and twisting and winding through the forest. It was a nice day. After a good break with BandieLegs for lunch, we got moving pushing the rest of the miles, chatting away about our time on trail.
Before we knew it we rolled into camp where Hamms was setting up. Bandilegs rolled in behind and soon the Boyscouts 1&2 joined up. With a small fire rolling we all gathered around making our dinners and chatting away. Fires on trail have been few and far between, but when they come, they are a nice treat!
Soon as the light began to fade we all crawled into our respective tents and got cozy. It had been a really nice chill day on trail.
Book Reccomendation: Switched at Birth, this American life.
We woke on the side of the trail, cowboycamped, to one of the best sunrises I have seen on trail. What a beautiful sight. Happy popped his head up just a few feet above me and Trainwreck did the same from her nearby tent. We took our time getting going and it was nice to watch the sun come up in the distance.
It would be the last time we were above 10,000 feet and we took it in, savoring the experience. Once packed up we headed out, walking tediously across the snow patches that were frozen from the night air. We worked out way over to a saddle before finally bombing down towards Sonora Pass.
The rocks here reminded me of Arizona. All the galvanic rock and treeless rock faces reminded me of Humphries or parts of the Grand Canyon. Needless to say it was gorgeous. Trainwreck and I chatted on as we decended towards the pass. The trees made their appearance and creeks gurgles, cutting the trail and the snow patches. Soon we found ourselves at the trailhead with our thumbs out hoping for a ride down the hill.
After a bit we met Papperazi’s mom and friend who gave us a ride. I had chatted with him the day before and he let me know they would be waiting on them and might give his a ride if we were there on time. We arrived to Kennedy Meadows Resort to find showers, laundry, a general store, a restuaunt, a haven for hikers! After hanging out for the day and doing chores we made our way down the road to the campground where we crashed for the night.
Paperazzi: 30s from Sacramento Ca. He attempted to hike the PCT in 2016, after meeting a gal from Canada they ended up trekking together on the regular. During this time he was drinking regularly on trail and at any stops along the way. After coming to Kennedy Meadows North, he started hitching rather than hiking to the next stop. Bernie, to Shasta, drinking frequently along the way. Finally in Shasta he got a wakeup call to sobriety and after applying himself, has been so for 2 years now. Coming back in 2018 with his dad he is coming back to go after it again. His dad originally only wanted to do the JMT, and after hiking from the Mexican boarder, he came down with a case of bursitis at Agua Dulce, and had to come off trail. Then he rejoined Paperazzi in Kennedy Meadows South and hiked until Kennedy Meadows North through the Sierras. Paperazzi is an awesome guy, always in a great mood and happy to chat, his smile alone is as accepting as his personality.
New Zealand reccomendations from ChiliBin: Te Araroa, Lord of the Rings set, The Hobbit house, Skiing, Franz Joseph glacier, ect.
We woke down in the meadow, I could still hear the river crashing just a few hundred feet away. I looked up towards the netting of my tent, it was still covered with Mosquitoes, Crap!
We had no choice but to get ourselves moving. I packed as much things into my bag befoore exiting my tent. Wrapped like a mummy in clothes I broke my tent down and hurrily got on trail. Happy had already beat me to the punch and had let out from our camp 10 minutes before.
Despite the small annoying bugs, the morning was gorgeous. The golden light played off the trees and the river rolling through the bottom of the valley through which we were hiking. Slowly and surely after a few relaxing uphills we found ourselves at the bottom of Dorthy Lake. It was a beautiful sight, the snowcovered mountains surrounding like sentinals and the green lush grass boarding the lake was very welcoming. It was a little early for a dip so we kept on pushing up to Dorthy Lake Pass. Once again we took in the sihts to the valley ahead, speakled with lakes and just as beautiful as the last.
The trail was a bit sloppy, but after some careful footwork and a few creek crossings we found ourselves at a bridge. This marked the end of the mosquito attack and I saw Papperazi and his dad Freighttrain hanging out beneith a tree. We chatted for a bit before they took off, and soon Happy came rambling through. It was lunch time and after a while Oxygen Debt came through and we all enoyed a nice break together.
We hiked on, up through the valley towards the pass before bumping into Trainwreck. I let her borrow my batt pack and we all pressed up the large mountian towards camp. As we pressed on, all of the supdden I felt an icecold streak run down my head and neack. Happy had grabbed a snowball and crushed it on my head. It was on and we reverted to children having a snowball fight.
After taking a time our, we crawled up the rest of the pass and were impressed with all the surrounding views. We could see the Sieraas to the south and the outstretched mountains before us. We were at the end of the Sierras and it was almost sad to look back at their snowcapped peaks. The three of us pushed on and finally found camp at 10,800 ft. With light fading and not much choice, Happy and I cowboy camped on the trail while trainwreck set her tent up in the wind on a small bivy pad. A really gorgeous view put us to sleep and we all bundled up in the chilly wind of our trialcamp.
Oxygen Debt: 40s – from all over really, seemed very vague on his background but very nice. He graduated from Virginia Tech with a Bachelors degree in Physics, but seemed to have most recently been bumming it around the world seeing the sights. North of the artic circle, to Alaska, Virginia, Maryland, Washington, the list goes on. He also dabbled in some Irish dancing amongst what seemed to be one of his many mysterious skills. Happy and I couldnt get a true bead on the fella, but one the less enjoyed his company just the same.
There are 2 great motivations to keep moving on the PCT: 1) Long term, winter will set in with late September. 2) Short term, if you dont keep moving, you’ll starve. (if that doesnt work the mosquitoes north of Tuolumne Meadows will eat you alive!)
I woke next to Lake Benson, sleeping in late again and started my day. Quill who warned me she usually slept late was still snoozing in her tent as I packed up. By the time I had my pack on she was up, disturbed by the loud birds and couldnt keep alseep. I said my fairwells and pressed on headed back to the trail.
It wasnt half a mile before I heard a “Baaahhhhhh” in the distance, and I looked up. It was Happy! Somehow he had gotten turned around and went to the lake by mistake as he navigated his way in the morning light. He had camped just 2 miles before the lake and I was glad to see him. We chatted on before getting moving on the trail.
The trail was lush and green here, so lush there was moss and ferns began to spring up, where I handnt seen them for miles. It reminded me of the PNW a bit. We started gaining right away and I put it in low gear as I climbed. The morning light was gorgeous and I snapped pictures left and right. Soon I popped out at a beautiful lake. I paused for a moment to take it in and snackl a bit when the mosquitoes found me, and I was hard pressed to keep moving.
Soon Happy popped up over the pass and we continued on chatting away as we went. Through the emeral forest we hiked and gazing in the distance of the towering granit moutnains we appreciated the Sierras while they still lasted. Down into a valley we crossed lakes and streams, life was abundand, and so were the mosquitoes.
We were faced with another climb and pressed on, step after grueling step. Happy was having some shin splint issues and took his time, which was just fine by me as I was in no hurry. I waited for him at the pass, and reunited we bombed down the other side chattin on about our favorite shows and things we might watch if we were home
We nosedived down into the valley that housed Wilma Lake, fed by Falls Creek via Jack Main Canyon. We followed the creek up, and noticed it seemed to become almost marshy near the rolling creek. The mosquitoes started coming out in full force. I had never seen them this bad in my entire life and they stuck to us like moths to a flame. Soon after some miles of shooing and slapping away the preditors, we found our camp.
We set up tents and dove inside. They stuck to our bug nets by what seemed, the hundreds. It was crazy how adament they were. Both Happy and I were covered in bites from the miles of walking through their territory. Everything was done from the confines of our tents, and after food and stretching night fell and soon our heads with it.
Its leather, either boot or saddle. There is no other way.
I felt like sleeping in, so I did. I was up the night before hanging out with Happy, Feather, and our new backpacking friends Lisa and Mike. I hadnt been sleeping all that well the last few nights with my ever flattening pad so I decided and extra hour of rest wouldnt kill anyone.
By the time I woke Happy and Feather were long gone, so I was back to trekking solo. I meandered through the lush green forest, enjoying the trees and gurgling creeks with high rising granit in the background. Couldnt ask for a more scerene scene to have a morning walk through, and I enjoyed all the moments. I pulled over for a moment, and Noodle came bounding up. “Hey man!” he exclaimed with a huge smile.
I had met him in Tuolomn waiting on my package to arrive and he was a new found friend. We chatted on as we hiked throught the beautiful landscape. He went on about his last day or so on trail, his hiking partner Tank, and we chatted about the difference in personality types. How the majority of people are there just to enjoy nature and all it has to offer, with a n open mind. Not only to what may come, but alos in meeting other hikers along the way.
After crossing a few creeks together with some killer leaps of faith we had a quick break snacking up before he pressed on and I went back to enjoying my solo stroll. Soon after running into Trainwreck and chatting on with her I happenned upon happy sitting in a beautiful meadow just across a nice creek. I got my feet wet attempting to ford the creek, and soon after joining Happy, pulled off my shoes and socks and layed down having a nice short nap after some muchneeded snacking.
Afterwards we both got up and started pushing on and up towards the pass. Soon as we did Quill came into view. Our 2 man conga line had turned to three. We climbed towards Benson Pass, chatting as we went. Soon after NoBo and his lady joined our 3 man conga turned to 5, and like the little engine that could we slow and steady chugged up the hill towards the pass. The views were incredile, but unlike the passes before this one was almost devoi of snow. We soon gained the highest point and to celerate we all took a nice break. It was only moments before the mosquitoe were upon us, sucking on us like vampires.
We were soon up and we all pressed on. I cstarted chatting with quill first about the statistics of the people on trail. Then we turned to phylosiphy, ideaology, religeon, movies, books, personal hostry, all sorts of subjects. She most interesting enough believed the all the decisions we make are already pre determined by our genetic makeup and environmental influences. We went back and forth debating the idea to some length before we realized we had reached te overlook of Benson Lake.
We looked back, Happy and Cashew ( a fella we picked up at he pass) were nowhere in sight. We continued on, through the gorgeous green landscape before finally coming to rest at he lakes edge. This was our camp for the evening and we chatted on after eating our dinners and watching the last light of sun leave the sky. It was a good day, and id be sure to make the next one just as good (pre-determined or not!)
Hiker Profile:
Noodle – 27, Fun loving guy with a huge smile and always ready to laugh from Montana. He went to Montana Weastern and played strong safety for the football team throughout his time there.
Montana Reccomendations: Swan Mountain Range for hiking back backpacking some beautiful lakes. Bob Marshall Wilderness, climbing at the Chinese wall. Bozeman Canyon for ice climbing, Beartooth Mountains for all around adventure.
Wyoming Reccomendations: Sinks canyon, Shashony National Forest, Popogia Wilderness
Quill: 23 From San Diego CA. An aspiring wrighter, she tried her hand at Stuctural Engineering studies and decided they werent for her. She decided to take a break from accidemics and come hike the PCT. Afterwards she has no definit plans on where she will end up, but would like to persure her studies in environmental enginering or green engineering possibly from Oregon State. PLenty of miles to go before having to decided!
Jazz Recomendations: Lester young, Django Rhinhartd. Book reccomendations: Life after Life, Gone Girl.
The waiting game was strong! A car would deliver the mail around 1pm and then after an hour of sorting I found that there was once again no packages waiting for me. The nice thing was I got to chat and meet all the hikers rolling into Tuolumne Meadows. At the end of the day I had to get out so I decided to hike Lumbert Dome and I wasnt let down.
It was a great hike and after topping out and enjoying the views I returned to my campground, just to wait the next day.
Day 69: The Naked Mile
I packed up my bag and tent. I decided I couldnt wait anymore and whether my packages came or not I would leave. Going back from breakfast and getting my ressuply together, I hung out. Happy had returned from his side trip to Half Dome and we waiting as people rolled in. Soon Happy Feet, Fuji, and Silver Fox came strolling into town! I hadnt seen them in quite a while and it was a really nice treat! We chatted on and hung out, then finally I watched as the car brining the pakcages to the post office rolled up.
No luck, no shoes, no new sleepin pad. We said our goodbyes and Happy and myself rolled out of Tolumne. About half way to camp on the Summer Soulstice, which so just happened to be naked hiking day, we got in our Naked PCT Mile. Ill be honest, it was pretty invigorating just rolling without clothes enjoying total freedom.
After thowing clothes back on we pushed the rest of the way to our camp passing rushing waterfalls and gorgeous granit sights. We soon met Lisa and Mike, a couple of backpackers out for the weekend. We decided to camp togeher and got a nice fire rolloing just as Feather rolled through and joined. It was nice to be back on the trail after so much wait!
Huarache – 29 – From Vancoover Canada. Doing a shoeless hike throughout the PCT. Has a “Zero Drop”, “Zero cushion”, “Zero Arch Support” which pretty much means you are barefoot. His sandles are homemade and only give a little protection to the ground. Has been hiking without shoes for 8 years now, and has continued to trek that way ever since. He stubbed a toe in the first 2 weeks and even though it looks gnarly but doesnt hurt a bit. Usually sheds a layer of skin every once in a while, a new calouse grows and he just keeps on trekkin. Usually wears socks in the snow, and the hot desert air on new skin has been the worst injuries for him. Hes confident in finishing and is walking home!
Frost covered my tent, it was freezing cold! I got moving and my fingers were still witht the cold. Luckily I had found my gloves the night before, and I can only imagine that without them the pain would be much worse. I worked as quickly as I could and soon had my pack on, coffee in hand.
I waved goodbye to Tornado and let out. I climbed as I went, shaking off the cold of the morning in vein. This was the first time I had hiked out of camp with my leg baselayers on, and I was pretty happy that they were cozy. The views of the forest and the running creeks diverted my attention from the cold. The morning light shown through the trees and illuminated the trail.
Soon I stopped for water and to take off my leg baselayers. Snacking up as Tornado came into view. We chatted on for a bit, just before two JMTers arrived at the creek. We chatted with them as well before finally pressing on, up towards the pass. Snock patches lined the trail and after some rock hopping and log balancing the snowey pass came into sight.
I could feel the fatigue forom the night before as I climbed. The landscape was scattered with Marmots and not much of any other wildlife. Sitting ontop of the pass Tornado soon joined me. To the north we could see the valley that lead to Tuolumne and it was filled to the brim with tons of pine trees. Looking back the snowcapped moutnains of the Sierras staired back emotionless but seeming to long for our return.
I pressed on, down the switchbacks diving into Lyell Valley. The steps became steep and I passed JMTers left and right headed south. The look on their face wasnt much of pleasure as they hiked up the trail. Soon I hit the flat and for the next 8 miles just meandered through until finally reaching the Meadow. Day hikers started to appear and I knew I was close. Step after step I finally reached the Tuolumne Meadows Store. Happy, Ladybug, Sissyphus, Cowboy, and a group of other hikers were all hanging out front, eating and being merry!
I said hello, found my way to a burger, a cold beer, and finally camp just up the road. We all bantered on, and soon after making our way back, a nice group of hikers gathered around a warm fire, chatting on about our way of life and what brought us out. Up far past hiker midnight we all retired and crashed for the night.
Day 67: Tuelumne Meadows Zero
I woke late and Tornado, Happy, and Spice all hung out at the picknick table eating our breakfast. Happy was headed to the valley, Tornado back to the trail, and Spice and I chilled at the store in the morning.
I was waiting on shoes and a sleeping pad. We sat at a picnick table bantering on as people dropped food off that they didnt want in the middle. It was like a hiker free for all. I cooked up some fresh eggs a man dropped off, and with some free cheese and tortillas I started making freebees for anyone who was hungry.
In the afternoon, to my surprise my buddy Justin James from Phoenix rolled up! He was in Tuolumne visiting his girlfriend Joy who worked in the park. He had tracked me down with my SPOT tracker and rolled right up to the General Store where I was waiting for my package out front. It was great to see him and we ended up doing a little bouldering and chilling with his gal and friends in the area. What was a wait turned out to be a good day!
Hiker Profile:
Breeze (Dylan) – From LA, wokring as a freelance photographer/cenimatographer. Has worked for nat geo, Netflix ‘The First’, and a numver of other clients. Has no real schedule, and true with his name, but breezes on through the trail enjoying it as he desires. Perhaps post PCT he will open an Outfitters near Ashville NC. A big charismatic smile and good nature towards everyone makes him easy to like and chat with.
Breezes Vegan food
IG: DylanConrad
Spice (Katharina) 22 – From the Black Forest in Germany. Found out about the PCT from a girl that did the CDT in her hometown. She became interested and thought it would be fun. So post college, she decided to go for it. She studied Math as a bachelors in Frieborg, and will go back for her Masters. She rocks approach shoes to hike in, she had them at home and decided out of convinience to go with them. The first pair lasted until Mammoth, now she just keeps up the tradtion!
We resupplied in Mamoth. It was a nice little ski town. There was enough depth to explore and with free trollies and nice Cafes, it made getting chore done quick work.
We messed around the town until the last trolly out at 4:45 and was on it headed to Horseshoe Lake. Happy, Kevin, Lush, Reaper, Ladybug, Sissyphus, Vertigo, Trainwreck, and Cowboy all hiked the 0.6 miles to McCloud Lake to sleep for the night. The lake was awesome and we all sat on the beach chatting hang hanging out w our dinners and a few brews we packed out. It was indeed, a good day!
6.17.18: The slow walk.
My sleeping pad had been recently leaking at a pretty slow rate, after which I patched 2 holes I found. Only tonight, on a particularly cold night, the pad began rapid decompression. Every 45 minutes I would wake, cold, and my body on the ground from the deflated pad.
I must have moved quickly in the night because a muscle on my left side was enflamed and irritated. It hurt to agony and ny time I tried to relax it, the muscle would send searing pains to my brain. 1:45, 2:45, 3:45, I wouldnt sleep, and when finally 4:45came round. I got up and packed up to start hiking. It was the worst sleep on trail I’ve ever had.
I pressed out of camp first, and soon Reaper, then Lush followed. Reaper caught up to me, and with coffee in hand we chatted as we padded down the forested trail. He told me about where he was from and what he did before the PCT. We chatted on about bear attacks, wildlife, post PCT life, sports, anythin under the sun really.
Soon we had already hiked the 3 miles to the PCT and soon after the 4 miles to Devils Postpile. We decided to do the small side trip and check out the awesome basalt columns and learn how they were made while taking in their beauty.
Afterwards, Reaper pressed on and I scrambed around to get more pictures. Soon Ladybug came rolling through, asking about the rest of the crew, then pressed on himself. My back was still hurting and the exhaustion of the sleepless night was getting to me. I dragged along the trail. I tried to enjoy the creeks, mountains, flora, and fauna, but I was seriously dragging butt!
I pulled over, had a snack and resigned myself to a nice nap below a tree., Just 40minutes had passed and I woke once again, ready for the trail. I grogilly got up and pressed n, up and up through th switchbacks, across the Soda Springs trailhead, and finally into the valley that would lead me to the,Thousand Island Lake, and Island Pass.
Soon Tornado popped in behind me and we chatted on and hiking up hgiher towards the lake. Soon the magnificent Mt. Davis came into view and we both paused whatever conversation we were having in awe of the massive mountain!
After stopping for pictures we chatted on and hiked up until finally reaching a sutable camp. Soon Lush rolled in, and from our slower pace i learned that the guys had already gone over the pass. I was in no shape for that tonight, so the camp we made would have to do.
Tornado – 40s, Musician, from Roanoke Va. Went to school for meteorology and then got into music, making 4 albums and touring for 40,000 people. Kevin Selfe and the Tornadoes. After finishing the AT in 2017 and a strange string of evens, he found himself single and on the PCT hiking north.
Reaper – 25, from San Francisco, went to Whitman college in Walla Walla for English. His mother was a wrighter and his father big into backpacking. Reaper was an unltarunner and a veagan. He worked in silicon valley with a startup that make plant based air cleaning devices for industrial buildings. Hes not sure what hell do with his life once finishing the PCT. One step at a time he says.
I opened my tent to the cool crisp air of the morning to find my shoes frozen solid. Welp, I guess thats how it goes sometimes, everyone seemed to be shaking off the cold. Packing up, one by one we let out of camp.
Down we dropped next to Virginia Lake and down into a swampy area where it seemed to be a challenge to stay dry. Tiptoeing with my heavy pack I made my way across the marsh, leaping from rock to rock, my right foot submerged. Dang! Not only was it cold as heck out, I now had a freezing cold foot. Sissyphus soon caught up and I warned him of the impending doom. He skipped and hopped and leaped, almost made it before leaping from a slippery log and dipped in his foot. Despite the mishap the views were gorgeous! Mirror lakes with the golden glow of the mountains in the background.
issyphus and I cranked on the new few miles chatting on about our lives, how we grew up and the decisions that brought us to the trail and hopes for the furutre. It was an amazing hike, snow covered moutnains in the distance while going through beautifully lush green forest. The trail went up and down and bobbed on. We pulled over for a break and watched the hikers coming and going. It seemed we were in the thick of it with both PCTers and JMTers on trail.
Sissyphus packed up before I did and started pressing on while I took in the view for a bit longer. I pushed the next miles alone and enjoyed the forest. Finally I found the junction to go to Mammoth and took it. Just 1 mile before reaching the trailhead I saw a familiar bearded face walking towards me. It was Smokebeard! He was in my first bubble I started hiking with and we chatted on catching up from our nearly monthseparation.
After waving goodbye I finished the trek and found a hitch into town where I met back up with Ladybug, Sissyphus, Reaper, Cowboy, Trainwreck, and Vertigo was there (Backster). Vertigo has pushed ahead of us from Tahachapi and was trekking with his Canadian high school friend Louis. He told us that Louis quite the trail and went home. A wierd feeling befell us all at the news. Sometimes people hike as much as they can, then they just cant anymore.
We got food and a hotel room. First time sleeping in a real bed in quite some time. It was a nice comfort, and I slept like a rock!!
We all slept in an extra hour after all the good food and visiting we had the night before. Now we were reunited with Cowboy, Ladybug, Sissyphus, Happy, and myself were ready to hit the trail. The big boat wasnt ready so it gave us an excuse to have a lazy morning and send more money having breakfast at VVR.
After hanging out and chatting with other hikers un the waiting area, drinking coffee, eating honeybuns, and going on about the trail, Paint finally road up on a 4Wheeler and in a loud voice announcede that we would be ready to leave in 5 minutes! A cheer came from all of the hikers and we were soon on the water buzzing across the calm lake back to the trailhead were we would “get back to work” (as Paint put it) and start hiking again.
It felt good to get my feet back on the dirt, and we were moving! We had 3000 feet inside of 6 miles before reaching Silver Pass and we really had our work cut out. We hiked on and up trying to keep our feet as dry as possible. At one creek crossing, Sissyphus did some fancy rock hopping, and I followed. My pack was much heavier with a full resupply and I barely made the jumps that Sissyphus’s long legs did with ease. Happy came up behind us and after hopping to the first rock was caight off balance tried to reverse his course but had one of the strangest falls I had ever seen. It was like the momentum of his pack sent him in 2 tumbling summersalts, into the water and back to the bankl. He was just fine and crossed the creek by fording as the rocks had won this round.
We pressed on, but not before Sissyphus found himself a nice beautful waterfall where we couldnt resist but to strip down and jump into. He was delighted, but cold as hell! Enough messing around we pressed on adn really got to work on the pass. There were onlya few snow patches and after some navigation and obstacle avoidance, we all reached the top. We sat there in the sun and had a nice lunch together att chattering on. Sissyphus equated it to the Shawshank Redemption scene where all the guys were tarring the roof and Andy Dufrain got some beer for all the guys. The sights were incredible and I couldnt agree with his analogy more.
We finally got moving again and glacaded as many snow patches as possible before all grouping back together and snaking through the lake riddled valley. We trekked on through the lush green forest chatting on about running, the Olympics, and new sports coming to the event. Before long we came to the final ascent.
I paused to filter water and Ladybug with Reaper (a newly foudn friend at Silver Pass) pressed on. I gathereed my water, chatted with Sissyphus as he passed telling him the camp plant before packing up. I had 900 feet of gain and just 1.5 miles to camp. I was like a pig in crap, I found my little zone and just hammered up the hill. Switchback after switchback I took on the gain, not falling back or giving up pace. It felt good to push, and after some good heartpumping trail with incredible views all around I reached the top of my climb and the camp for the night.
I gathered water and the crew trickled in. Ladybug, Sissyphus, Cowboy, Happy, and now Reaper joined in. It was a solid crew and we all had good fun hiking together. The sun set on the mountains in the distance and after the usual nightly routine we crawled into our tents and found restfull slumber.
We woke early, eager to gain Selden Pass and get to VVR. There was no sign of the killer mosquitoes we encountered the night before as I poked my head out of the tent in anticipation. Happy let out of camp first, then me, leaving Sissyphus and Ladybug not far behind.
We bounded up the trail in the cool morning before the sun shown down on the west side of the pass. Gorgeous mountain lakes laid dorment and we enjoyed the mirror reflections in them as we passed. Soon Ladybug and Sissyphus caught up and the we pushed up the pass together. Dodging creeks and navigating snow patches, we followed switchback after switchback until we finally topped the pass! The rolling stones (a 10-12 person group) were hanging at the top and Weezer (the girl we helped get up Mt. Whitney) was ecstatic to see us! “Hey guys!” She exlaimed and went on to say how she told her group and we had been labeled Wezzers Whitney Booys. We were glad to meet back up and we said hey to the group and snapped a few pictures over the pass.
It was time to bomb on down and Ladybug headed up the charge down the snowpatched trail, skirting beautiful lakes, doding mudd pudles, and creeks overflowing the trail. It was a cool section and we meandered on until we found a great lunch spot just before the final climb. We sat in the sun on a large granit rock eating lunch and joking on about whatever came to mind. Someone realized they had signal and a few people messaged home.
Up we were and it was time to put this baby to bed. We started up the switchbacks and really got after the gain. We chatted as we went and found out that Happy actually was the captin of the diving team in college and he went on to tell us all about his fav flips, to challenging the swim team on meets, and how he stumbled into it never diving before (a walk-on). Before we knew it we were at the top of the gain and we once again met up with the rolling stones.
We bombed down the other side together, Ladybug and Sissyphus pressed on and Happy and Myself hept witht he boys of the Stones and ripped the long downhill. It was most definity a chage in environment and it was much more like a jungle on the north side. A little humid, and so so green. We finally reached the junction to VVR, the sotnes all waited back for the rest of their group and Happy and me pressed on.
It seemed like the longest 1.5 miles of my life, I think I was just ready to be at the ferry dock. It was pretty but I was ready to be done. Finally we reached the NE end of Edison Lake were a small boat was bringing just 4 hikers at a time back and forth to the resort on the far side of the lake. We met back up w the boys, stretched together, then Happy and I jumped in the water foor a quick dip.
Chatting on in like I looked back to see that Cowboy was there! “Hey man!” He was supposed to be 2 days ahead of us when we parted ways and he continued north as Ladybug, Sissyphus, and I went out of Kearsarge to resupply. He told me his tail, he took a wrong pass at Mather and was in no mans land. Had a heck of a time getting back, took a fall, and was all beat to heck and back. “Holy crap Cowboy!” I exclaimed. After seeing he was alright for the most part the ferry had just pulled up and it was my time to go.
An older fella named Paint Your Wagon drove the boat and definitly had a funny personality. He went on about his job and how he had a heart attack last year. Soon after the small boat bobbed across the water we arrived. The next few hours were filled with setting up tents, getting a steak dinner, a few cold bears, and grabbing my reupply box from the store. The place is admittedly a little expensive, but having a place out here in the middle of nowhere isnt free to run! We settled in for the night, what a great day!
Hiker Profile:
Boyscout + Racoon
A german couple from the black forest. They love backpacking and being outdoors. After being inspired by the book and movie Wild, they decided to pack up their things and come hike the PCT. Raccoon had been dreaming of a package her sister sent her in Mammoth full of rich delicious German chocolate!
I woke in the Muir Hut surprised at the warms the 7 bodies inside managed to muster despite the cold temps at 1200 ft. Syssyphus, Ladybug, Happy, Opa, Biscuit, Shopping Cart, an myself occupied the hut on the pass. It was the second awesome camp we had made in 2 days, and I was really appreciative.
Stepping outside into the crisp air, the snow was hard from the nights temps. Postholing seemed to be a thing of yesterday as all of us but the Marmot Murderers (as we affectionatly nicknamed Shopping Cart and Buscuit) headed out facing north, racing the rising sun.
We chatted as we hiked, and I really enjoyed the freeing feeling of just following a terrain or landscape rather thn being bound to the confines of a trail. We decneded and Ladybug continued to post hole. He wasnt the happies camper by the time we reached dry land. Soon after the snow let up we found Opa chilling by a snowmelt fed lake, Happy and myself opted to take a dip. After stripping down I jumped in cannonball style, amused at the ice chunk that went floating by. After a nice sun drying, chatting with the crew, and making some nice coffee we were all less than enthused to move.
It was necessary and we pushed on, decending into the canyon that soon turned from granit walls to forest and vegitated mountainsides. We trekked on, seperating by pace, and I soon happened upon Happy about to cross the Evolution River. I opted to join him and we both waded into the icey current. The water seemed to rise as we pushed on, hobbling over the rounded creekbed stones. It wsnt until the last 20 ft that the current really became agressive, and we fought inch by inch until sucessfully standing on the other side.
After a quick break we were off again, soon decending to our lowest elevation of the day and twisting and winding following the furocious river that was made by snowmelt. After gathering water below a bridge, Lewis showed up! I hadnt seen the guy in quite a while and we caught up before pressing on.
The last hill of the day was a big boy, weighing in at 1700 lbs inside 3 miles. I pressed on, just grinding out the miles and sweating every step of the way. I could tell it was getting later and watched the sun start to show its golden stripes through the trees and leaves. Finally after a few grueling miles, I pulled into camp. I was pretty tuckered out and set up my tent as fast as I could as the mosquitoes here were absolutely terrible! Ladybug and Sissyphus warned me as soon as I walked up, but before the words got out of their mouths, I got bit 3 times. From the confines of my tent I stretched, made food, and was soon too tired to keep my eyes open.
Hiker Profile:
Opal- 25, from Buffilo NY. Very independent, hiking alone, and she waits for noone. She helped wrangle horses in Montana for the past 3 summers and finds that shes is most at home in the outdoors. PCT seemed to be a natural progression for her, so here she is, taking on the long distance trail solo!
We woke next to the Palisde Lake, what a magical place! By far the best campsite I’ve had on the PCT to date. It was chilly and pulling myself from my war sleeping bag was all the motivation I need to get my butt going on the trail.
The sun had yet to hit us as I let out. Ladybug and Sissyphus weren’t far behind and Happy and Pickle seemed to be taking their time. The trail bombed down from the lake and followed a beautiful cascading waterfall as it did. Down and down it went and it really felt good to get the legs going. I paused for a picture when Ladybug and Sissyphus rounded the corner. We bombed down the canyon as a trio and chatted on about political history.
The granit towering walls were the theme of the day and continued all the way down, even once we walked back into treeline. We all pulled over for a break to check out an old washed out footbridge and Happy and Pickle come strolling in. Pickle was getting off at Bishop pass to meet his fiance and we bid him a goodbye as he pressed on.
We had reached the bottom of the canyon and it was time to climb. We hiked up and on, checked out the roaring creek, wandering deer, and lush green meadows below the surrounding granit cliffs. It was a wounderland.
Soon after leaving tree line again our wounderland turned to winterland. Snow patches that had been feeding the roaring rivers reared their heads, but we were determined. Ladybug and I pressed on as we were seperated from Happy and Sissyphus after taking a break hidden up high from trail.
We hiked on, postholing in the snow, crossing ice bridges above raging rivers, and seldomly scampering across some exposed rock. It was pressy sweet and I was loving the trailless mountaineering approach to the ascent. We climbed up to a beautiful glacier lake half covered in ice and filtered a bit of water.
As soon as we rounded the ridge we saw Happy and Sissyphus having a break on a rock. “Whats up guys!” We were happy to find them as it woud have been a nightmare trying to manage the pass and figuring out of we should pwait or go on without them. We pressed the last snow covered slopes together. Step after atep until finally Muir Stone House came into view!
This would be our camp for the night and we were extatic to fially have arrived. We all cooked up dinner as hikers came rolling in. Opa, Shoppin Cart, Buscuit, and Feather. Feather only stayed for a moment, long enough to share some food and drink with us. Buscuit and Shopping cart seemed hell bent on catching a nearby marmot. I let them be not thinking they could do it, until my surprise they did. Something in me had to protest and I said they should prbably let the lil fella go. Once that whole ordeal was over, we all settled down and watched the sun set over the mountains. What an action packed incredile day. To top it off we wouod be sleeping in a little mountain paradise!
“Pain reatains! This is how we learn lessons” – Pickle
I woke and it was go time. Packed up, and was moving before 6am, headed towards the Pinchot Pass. Apparenly that was on everyone elses minds as well and we pushed for the sow covered pass. Up and on we went through the shaded morning. The sun finally went to work on the high cliff walls surrounding us. I hopped over a creek crossing, looked back to take a picture, and there was Ladybug headed up trail. I waved and pressed on.
Up and on we went, he caught me and we chatted for a moment before he pulled over to strip his puffy jacket. I pressed on, and as I climbed I found that the water covered trail turned to ice. I hopped and skipped rockers where I could and just kept pressing on. Then log snow patches came in, I crossed them with relative ease as they were still hard form the mornings chill. I passed a JMTer and said good morning as he muttered about Oxygen problems, but seemed fine. It was kind of like paying the lava game as a kid, but instead you were avoiding water, ice, and postholing in the snow.
After some time I finally reached the headwall of the pass and soon Ladybug joined me for the final push. Across snow patches, back onto the bare trail, and back again we climbed until we were crossing the last switchback. We stopped and took in the view taking pictues and chatting on. We stopped ontop of the pass for snacks. Soon Happy and a new friend Pickle came popping over the pass. “Where is Sissyphus?” Paul and I asked. It seemed no one had seen him for some time. Paul got up and walked down the pass until finally finding him tucked near a rock. He joined and we all joked on, and took in the views.
We pressed down the north face in the large group. I had my iceaxe out and tried to glisade wherever possible. Man it was great fun sliding down on decent ice! We reached the bottom of the pass and took a quick pause to check out a lake. A nearby marmot kept poking its head out from under a boulder. Ladybug joked on about catching it and eating it for dinner as I stripped down and made a flying leap from a lakeside boulder into the nearly freezing icey waters. Whew man that will wake you up!
We pressed on as a group and I found myself chatting with Pickle quite a lot. We went on about alcohol laws, gun laws, hunting laws, and all the differences between states. Pickle was an avid flyfisherman and hunter of water foul, that is when he isnt hiking. We went on and on and the miles mealted away. Soon we found our first big waterford and without hesitation we all just went for it, plundging in, up to our thighs in fridged waters. The next few miles were the same rythm of water crossings and beautful forests while chattin on.
We paused for a quick break until everyone but Happy (who seemed temporarily MIA) showed up. We hiked on towards Mather Pass. On and up we went hopping across snow patches until finally reaching the switchbacks and after a heardy push we all made it to the top. Breaking on a nice sitting rock we just lookedforward towards the snow covered fields ahead. Soon we pressed on and post holed, slip and slided, and glicaded when we could down the north face into the valley and finally finding once again, the PCT.
The next miles were spectactular as a mountain lake came into view. The water was perfectly clear and all around waterfalls trickled down the snowmelt to feed the thirsty lake. This is one of the most beautiful places ive ever seen. We skirted the lake and finally came down on a green grass knoll of the far side and decided there was no contest, we had to camp here. Sissyphus, Ladybug, Pickle, and myslef set up shop and just got through eating dinner as Happy came rolling into camp. “Happy!!!” everyone yelled. We were all glad to see him and he said he was tuckered out! He set up tent as well and we all receeded to our tents, getting ready for the next days haul.
Hiker Profile:
Pickle (Dillan) 36, from Pennsylvania. An avid hunter and fisherman. He seemed like a good ol boy, very friendly and had a great sense of humor. Could make just about anyone laught and fit right it in the groups smart alic attitude. Hiked the AT in 2016, and planned to do the CDT in 2020. His fiance was coming out to meet him and he would be coming off trail to hang out in Tahoefor 5 days.
We woke next to Flower Lake and started getting goign. There was something about getting off the PCT, Hiking 7miles over a pass, just to pick up 5 days of food and hike back. A necessary evil, but still something none of us enjoyed doing, fretted it actually. Our only concelation was the really cool hostel we stayed at in the town of Biship. So that was the mood as we packed up and got rolling.
It was windy on the pass as we began to climb. We were all still shaking off the morning chill and Ladybug, Sissyphus, Happy, and myself grinded out the hike. Up and up we went, and the golden morning light with the incredible views went great lengths to soften the blow of the climb. Soon we topped it, and dumped down onto the west side of Kersarge pass where the sun had yet to warm. It 6was downhill to the PCT and Bullfrog Lake was looking especially awesome!
Finally back on we headed north,up throuhg the valley snaking our way through until finally finding the switchbacks that lead to Glenn Pass. WE ran into a few other hikers as we pressed on, even met a few people hiking the JMT. The gain became hardy and the pace slowed as we climbed. Only a few patches of snow remained on the south side. Switchback after switchback we climbing until finally conquoring the beast and standing atop the pass.
The north side was covered in snow, but ot had been kicked out pretty well. We stopped for a snack as we watched a group of JMTers carefully crossing the snowpacked north face. We had already been tempered in the snow of Forester Pass and were all excited to see if we could glicade some of the patches. We hurridly hiked across, joking around in hight spirits. The snow at the top was hard and steep but as we decended we found a few nice patches to glicade and play on.We were soon at the bottom of the pass and started hiking towards Rae Lakes.
The lakes were incredible, clear as a bell and twice as cold. They still looked so inviting, and after hiking for a mile or so, we stopped for lunch and Ladybug and I did a little cliff jumping! Whew boy talk about cold. As soon as my body hit the water it took my breath away! After sufacing and grabbing some air I realized it wasnt so back, swam back and climbed the face back to the rock I leaped from. The sun went to drying us off and we all chatted and snacked.
It was time to roll and we headed north through the canyon. It sure was gorgeous, snowcovered mountains towered around us and crystal clear lakes with rumbling waterfalls feeding them. It was a mountin paradise! After trekking down the canyon for some miles we came to a full on suspension bridge that only allowed 1 hiker to dcross at a time, it was soooo cool!
After chilling for a break below the bridge, we pressed the final miles to camp. We were just 5 miles from the pass, it was the last sheltered area to camp before it, and it was like a hiker free for all. We were all spead out, so I decided to climb a little higher and found a nice little 1 man pas high on the rocks above. I plopped here for the night and snuggled in for what was sure to be a cold and windy night. Tomorrow the pass awaited, and we were ready!
Here we are at the Hotel California . . . Such a lovely place
Ladybug, Happy, Sissyphus and myself all rented a room at The Hostel California. It was such a cool place, very hiker friendly, and felt very welcoming and communal. We went down to find free fresh eggs, bread, and coffee for breakfast! There were townclothes to borrow, bikes to ride around town, free wifi, showers, a chill area to hang out, tv with a ton of movies, and games galore.
We sat at the breakfast table, most of us journaling, having breakfast and joking around and sharinf trail stories. It was pretty darn nice. Once done, we cleaned out the room, went into town, did laundry, had lunch, resupplied food, packed our bearcans to the brims and caught the 1:15pm bus back to Independance from Bishop for 6.50$
After catching an uber to the trailhead we just sat for some time and chatted. Brews from a gas station and assorted snacks made our dinner as we talked about different people we had met on the trail and our personal perspectives on what we were actually doing out here. None of us were psyched to get back on the trail right away and this was a nice way to recharge from all the stress of running around town and getting all your chores done.
It sounds silly, but getting off the trail and going into town can be stressful. It nice to have places like the hostel and good friends to help along the experience and make the resupply experience a little more livable.
We headed out, pushing up the switchbacks back towards Kearsarge Pass. It felt good to move again after the break and we miles melted away. We soon found ourselves at Flower Lake just 2.5 miles in and set up camp for the night. Even getting a few miles away from the main trailhead felt nice. We chatted and joked before tucking into our tents. We all really appreciated the chance to have a unique experience like the PCT. We all have our reasons for being here, all had different ways of arriving in Campo, sacrifices we had to make, but none the less, here we all are. Enjoying the trail and enjoying each others company.
Ladybug and Sissyphus, pretending to be stormtroopers . . . It happens
Hiker Profile:
Happy – 33, From upstate NY, but now lives in Seattle. He is well chracterized by his name, always pretty chipper and upbeat. He worked as a software designer creating tools for graphics designers for the game Halo. After a not so great breakup, he is here to explore the outdoors and do something for himself for a change. He has a great outlook on life and is a really geniune guy.
Sometimes the road to Subway seems longer than it should!
I was wet when I woke. The humidity from the nearby creek made the cold even colder but none the less, it was time to move. Packing up, Sissyphus, Ladybug, and I were all ready to roll by 6. Forester pass was on all our minds.
We trekked up and out of the valley before coming to the Tyndall river where we met Nemo considering his options to ford. A few hop, skips, and leaps of faith landed all of us safely on the other side of the river. He joined up with us and we all chatted on as we hiked towards the pass.
The snow patches started to appear and before long we found ourselves stairing up at the pass. We strapped on our microspikes and pulled out the iceaxes as we ascended. It was an arduous push, but soon we were all past the snow patches and onto the rock safely hiking up the switchbacks. The final snow traverse was across a chute would be pretty bad if you were to slip here. We carefully crossed, step after step, whew! Made it!
Finally we stood ontop of the pass at 13,200 ft, the boarder of Sequoia NP and Kings Canyon NP. The snow on the north side looked pretty nice and after a ton of pictures we started to decend. All the way down to 9500 feet we walked the beautiful canyon. My feet were wet by the time we all met up for camp. Pulled the shoes off and let them dry out as we snacked. We met a fella named Grench at our break spot. We all soon came to the same conclusion, that the guys name was well earned. The optitomy of “Keep your eyes on your own paper”, he seemed so concerned with our plans for resupply and taking in the trail. Everyone is out there on their own mission, but he seemed to be the first one I met that thought that thru hiking was dumb.
We pressed on. It was a grueling hike to the top of Kearsarge Pass. The views were incredible and the only consolation to the hard hike (or seamingly heard after the day summiting Mt Whitney and crossing the Forester Pass that morning). We were all pretty beat and for the next 4.5 miles we descended with Happy who caught up to us. We all fantasized about Subway and went on at length about what we would get on our sandwiches.
It seemed never ending, but we finally reached the trailhead. Car after car passed us with no sucess to having our thumbs stuck out. After about half an hour a fella names Jeff stopped off and opened is car to us. He was so nice of a buy, nopt only did he give us a ride down from the mountain, but also gave us a ride all the way into Bishop (a 30 mile drive). We celebrated his genorocity and chatted on the ride.
Finally we arrived at The Hostel California, an awesome spot that was only 25$ a night and was super hiker friendly. They had bikes to ride around town, hiker box, hiker food. Well worth the price. Soon after finding food in town and having a cold beer, we all passed out like a robot shutting down.
Hiker Profile:
Nemo – 22 Mars Years Old – Well read, pretty fabulous fella that Hiked the AT in 2014. He loves the America culture and the thru hiker lifestyle. Enjoys how people come to reinvent themselves and immerse in alternative lifestyles. He looks at a thru hike as playing in the woods. Exploreing and of being in small scale society is very interesting. The people are kinder, nicer, and you can feel more at home. He studied Biological and Anthropology masters at The University of Michigan and did his undergrad at UofA in Biology and Math. He is an ulstralighter and has a spriatic hiking style. Sometimes hell hike 50 miles, other times, 30, then 10, have some zeros, then do three 40 milers back to back. The definition of social butterfly, he flutters from group to group getting to know everyone and loves to chat.
Jeff – Works for LA times, gave us a ride all the way to Bishop, what an awesome guy!
You know its going to be a great day when your alarm blasts at 1am! We set up camp just 7.5 miles below the summit of Mt Whitney and we went to bed at 6pm to prepare ourselves foe the journey. Both Ladybug and Sissyphus had never been above 12000 ft and I was stokede to accompany them on their first 14er!
It was chilly and we were up and moving, not saying much as we trekked quickly through the darkness via headlamp. We could see some headlamps in the distance and knew a few people had already started up. Soon after rounding a corner we heard a voice and a headlamp shine on us “Hey! Casn I come with you guys? I got lost and seperated from my group” The voice wimpered. Ladybug pipped up, “Sure thing!” And that how we met Weezer. We sandwihed here in the group and we pressed on.
She told us she was feeling queezy from being sick the day before and she had missed her group leaving that morning. In trying to catch them, the guys had too quick of a pace and she got turned around. After hiking and chatting a bt, we started to realizr that Weezer was suffering from altitude sickness. She mentioned her stomach not feeling great and possibly puking. WE stopped and asked her to make the call. If she went to the peak we would go with her, if she turned back then she should be able to find her way easily. And if she puked . . . well there is only 1 way to go but down. After she sat for a second she decided to press on and I grabbed her pack putting it on my chest and carrying it along with mine. I was slackpacking so my weight was pretty light. We laid down a solid pace and just started marching up the switchbacks through the dark.
Patches of snow would come on and we would take our time and overcome the obstacle. Time and time againi we did until taking a break at the Whitney Trail and JMT junktion. Sissyphus brewedup some hot chocolate and we snacked down all bundles up trying to hold off the cold.
It was time to press on and as we did we could see the moon shining on the rock faces adjacent to the switchbacs we were ascending, it was gorgeous! We kept after it and the white glow from the moon started to fade and the blue of morning started wokring in. Blues turned to pinks, turned to oranges, turned to yellows. The sun was doing its thing and the light flooding onto the sentinal peaks surrounding us was one of the most beautiful sights you could see.
We trekked on skirting the ridgeline, avoiding ice, and carefully navigating fozen ice patches as we came upon them. When we finally reached the last 0.5 miles and the last patch of snow was behinf us I gave Weezer her pack back, and we all pressed for the peak! The sun had just rissen as we summited and it was one hell of a view!
After phone calls and photo shoots we made our way back down the trail. On the way I suggested we stop and summit Muir while we were at it. It was a class 3/4 scramble and the guys seemed keen. WE ascended the rocky slopes that lead to the granot blocks of the climb. One move after another we carefully climbed, and after some slab climbing, hand jamming, and all around fun scrmbling, we touched the top of Mt Muir. What a great day!!!
Wasting no time we headed back down the long switchbaks, through the glacier lake area, and finally to campo where we all crashed hard for a long hour nap.
Our work wasnt dine yet and we packed up camp and hiked another 7 gorgeous miles through some of the prettiest ladscape ive seen. Snow capped mountains, gorgeous green meadows, sequoia trees, golden light from the end of the day, every step was worth it. We settled in our camop just next to Tyndall Creek in a great position to take Forester Pass, just 4 miles away. The pass should be hiked early, before the snow losses its ridgidity and becomes less stable. At any rate, it was one hell of an awesome day!
We woke to ice on our bear canisters and on the inside of our tents. Musta got a little chilly last night! I heard Sissyphus and Ladybug stirring in their tents as I started packing up. The lake the night before was beautiful and as I hiked out of camp, the morning light did it some great justice too!
Ladybug was close behind me as I pulled out of camp and for the next few miles we just took in the views and chatted about life. We would point to twisted sequoias, then chat about lifes plans awaiting us after the trail. Its nice tto just BS and have some trail talk as you are meandering through and both getting high on the same views.
Ladybug pulled off and I pressed on in silence, watching the squirrels and chimpmunks scamper as they caught sight of me. What a gorgeous morning, the light was gleeming through the trees and before I knew it I was at a creek crossing and 9 miles behind me. Woot! I found a lare log to cross over and plopped down for nice break.
Soon after snacking down, sewing a hole in my smartwool gloves, and packing up my bag the fellas came rolling around the corner. I told them about the log and the both happily crossed. Cowboy came stomping up to the crossing, I told him about the log as well. He looked in that direction, then at the creek, and walked right in like it was nothing. Cowboy is a funny fella.
The gain was on! The 4 of us let out from the creek and it was Ladybug in the lead, myself following, Sissyphus, and lastly Cowboy. The grind up the switchback covered mountainside was grueling. It was just what I was looking for! Up and up we went twisting through the pines, breathing in calculated breaths in the higher altitude. After what seemed like an hour, Ladybug and I topped out the big up and contintue to press on towards camp.
The seqoiuas and pines were gorgeous, and like curtains, just barely covered the towering granite moutnains behind. On and on we went until we finally dumped into a meadow the would be our approach for Whitney summit. We grabbed water, and took a rest before pushing onto camp near the Ranger Station. We were positioned for a 1:30am leave time which would put us at the top of the continental US at sunrise. I was excited for the challenge, but I needed to sleep. We all did, and crawling into our beds at 6pm, we were rimed and ready!
Of the Seven Dwarves, Grumpy has the greatest jokes . . . You’d literally die if he ever told one!
I woke up on the wrong side of the sleeping pad. Ill try and make this short.
1) It was chilly, and soon after trekking my left wristband to my trekking pole break. I put it in my hipbelt pocket to find later that it fell out during a break.
2) My sleeping pad went flat in the night, which means I’d have to play Where’s Waldo with the tiny hole, or it had gotten so cold that the pressure dropped (ive yet to determine which is right answer).
3) After trekking for a few miles I heard from other hikers that there was phone signal at mile 732. I hadn’t had signal for days and I was excited to call and chat with my people . . . no signal! I climbed ontop of rock pilars, rock mounds, any highpoint I saw (an older fella Lucky looked at me like I was crazy) just to find out later that it was AT&T and not Verizon that had the tower . . . phone battery down 30%.
4) At one point I took off my backpack, and in doing so something caught my neacklace, and broke it sending the 2 rings I had on there flying. I watched helplessly as they fell into 2 different granit cracks. My heart fell and I searched frantically. After finding the first and contourting my hand to find the second. I somehow miraculously recovered the lost rings. Whew!
Alright now that we got that much of the day out of the way, lets get lunch and try to enjoy the rest! It was actually very beautiful out. The pine trees were gorgeous and the distant views of mountains were magestic. The temps were great in the sun and it was a good day for trekking.
The group seemed to keep on missing each other. First I saw Cowboy, and then Ladybug, and finally I caught up with Sissyphus and threw a snowball at him. Joking around with the fellas and the great views really turned my mood.
We trekked on and up finally finding Cottonwood Pass, which of course was gorgeous, and then Chick Spring Lake, our camp for the night. I got to borrow Sissyphus’s phone and make a call from Cottonwood Pass which made me feel btter too. By the time we got to camp, jumped in the freezing lake, and made dinner, it was only 7:30. Despite the morning upsets, I really enjoyed the day, the people, and the views the trail had to offer!
I woke in the night looking up at the clear sky through my flyless tent, it was nice. I staggered out of my tent, used the restroom and made it back through the dark to lay down just half an hour before my alarm blasted.
Up with the sun, down with the sun, its the thru hiker way. I was soon on my feet all packed up, including bear canister and ice axe, ready for the snow. Pack heavy I carried on, the guys were up and I waved bye as I pressed on.
The trail snaked through the pine forest before finally entering a large valley where we gained a saddle. Through the miles I met Data with Heaven, and saw Kathryn trailside taking a break by the creek. Data and Heaven were Ultralight boys, I could never figure out how having no hipbelt was good for your back . . .
We trekked on up and past the saddle before settling down into the open meadow beyond. It was nice trekking, we could see snowcapped mountains in the distance. Bend after turn we finally came to a foot bridge. The coolest thing about the footbridge is that its underside was infested with Swallows who were highly active! They would bob in and out of their little nests then fly off together in a big circle soon returning. It was mezmirizing to watch them work and I sat creek side. Soon Ladybug, Cowboy, and Sissyphus joined.
It was the nicest and best break ive ever taken on the PCT. I got in the water, it was invigorating but not frigid. I dried out in the sun, had a snack, chatted, and somehow managed to take a nap. I almost felt guilty there by the creekside, then looking around and seeing all the other hikers that arrived and followed suite, it made it not so much of a guilty pleasure.
None the less it was time to press on. I packed up and headed out, waving bye to the boys. The open high desert lead to a pine forest which had some nice overheade coverage which was nice because the gain started picking up. The granite boulders started showing themselves and this seemed like the Sierras I know from past trips. Tall pines, white rock and white padded trail. The gain was constant and a good 2500 feet later I found Ladybig chilling by a rock. I joined and enjoyed the chance to chill. We chatted on joking around as Cowboy and Sissyphus rolled in joining.
It was just 3.9 miles to water and we all strolled them with ease. The views were amazing and the afternoon light lit of the rocks and trees in its own special golden way. Finally we arrived and after dinner, filtering , and stretches, soon found ourselves tucked away in our tents as the sun set. A great day indeed!
Hiker Profile:
Data – 27, from Vermont. A fairweather hiker, he chose the PCT as it first his nature best. Managed a production facility that made baked goods for 5 years before deciding to do something different. An ultralight hiker, carrying very light gear and little of it. He boasted that him and heaven would do 35 miles on average and sometimes 40. They took no breaks and hiked from dawn to dusk.
Kathryn: 30s/40s very nice and well mannered gal from Portland. Always wanted to do the PCT, was actually discouraged when the book and movie Wild came out as the trail was swamped with hikers. She said it seemed like a good year, and the traffic has diminished, so it seemed right!
Kennedy Meadows is the south gate to the Sierras. We woke the next morning, ready to resupply and get after it! We grabbed some pancakes, hashbrowns, and coffee to start the morning off right.
The name of the game was go to Grumpy Bears and the Outfitters a few miles away, then come back and do laundry, take a shower, have a last real meal before hitting the road.
Cowboy stayed behind and Ladybug, Sissyphus and I hit the Outfitters and Grumpy bears for lunch. Pausing to play a few games of pool on their rockity table, then headed back to the general store.
My package hadn’t arrived yet and I was nervous that if it didnt arrive on the Saturdy (today) I’d be stranded there for 2 more days waiting on my gear and food. When I got back I found that I was in luck!
Packing the bearcan, extra clothes, 5 days of food, and iceaxe into and on the outside of my pack was a feat all in and of itself. I was ready and soon were the boys. I grabbed the last drying shirt from the clothesline and threw it in my bag as we all took off for the trail.
The feeling was that we couldnt get stuck there another night and a riverside camp was just what the doctor ordered! We let out trekking on through the open desert before finally coming to a pine forest and a sign that said Sierra South Wilderness. We had made it!
Soon afer the sign we found an awesome camp just off the river and settled in. I went flyless tonight hoping for good stars. It was a good solid day and after seeing many hikers and nice things in town, it was time to get back to the reason we are out here, the wilderness!
It was strange to think of how far I had already come. Over 25% of the trail complete and less than 2000 miles to go. I went over this in my head as I hit my alarm to a snooze. It got cold that night, just at 6800 ft, I could only think of sleeping in the Sierras above 11,000 ft and most likely on top of a patch of ice.
I was up and packed, saying by to the fellas and trodding off down the trail. The chill clung to the moring and it didnt help that I was trekking in the shadow of the moutnain all morning. I put my buff up over my face and trekked on through the pines. Down down down the trail went before I finally came across a creek for a water resupply.
I plopped down filtering a few liters as Cowboy, Sissyphus, and Ladybug came trekking in. We chatted and snacked, joking about the trail and chatting about how windy it was yesteray. Packing up once again we pushed off. Holding a good pace up the final hill of the day I smelled smoke. “Paul, do you smell that?!”. He laughed “Yup, just lit one up!” He was hiking behind me with a lit cigarette and I busted out laughing. Not only was he puffing away, but also holding pace like nobodys business!
Sissyphus pulled in behind and the 3 of us pressed the next few miles to the high point of the day where we first really got to see the snowcapped Sierras. We took it in, snapped pictures, and knew we were close to the Sierras doorstep. We trekked on, through the winding canyon that finally spit us out into the basin that lead to Kennedy Meadows. We stopped at a creek and kicked back for a nice relaxing hour break.
We got up and pushed the last 8.5 miles through the winding valley. It seemed that we were still in high desert and went in and out of patches of pines. We turned a corner and all of the sudden a gorgeous creek came audibilally and visually rushing into my life. It was crystal clear and gorgeous and accompanied the final miles in. Once I got to the road a burly man with a long white beard on a grey pickup truck answering to the name of Dave asked me if I wanted a ride. Soon Cowboy and Sissyphus came rambling in. Ladybug had already caught the last ride and was waiting for us at the general store when we arrived.
It was time for beer, burger, and rechanging the batteries. What a great day. Trekking all day just to come in and relax with friends and when you arrived everyone clapped giving you a heros reception. It wasn’t home, but it was a pretty decent concelation.
Hiker Profile:
Horseie and Rooster (Alex) 25 from LA, hiking by horseback. He bought his mustang from the BLM for 125$ at Ridgecrest. He tamed him, himself and was all set to go for the long haul. He started in January of all months and had come off the trail twice waiting for snw to met. With a big smile and his full cowboy gear on Rooster gave me the rundown on Horsie and I petted his head and neak. What a cool way to trek the PCT!
We all slept in! The alarm blasted and I slapped the snooze, a second time, and a third! Finally around 5:45 I started moving around groggily getting my things together. It was nice to lie in every once in a while and once I popped my head out of my tent I found the Sissyphus (Heddi), Ladybug (Paul), and Cowboy (Mike) had all done the same.
But none the less the miles weren’t going to walk themselves. We got rolling and headed out as a group. We soon crossed Highway 178 at Walkers Pass and started up the next large hill. It was some good gain and we got after it! Trekking on and slowly ascending the moutains in the distance and the desert to the east came into view. We soon realized that this marked the start of the foothills to the Sierra Nevada Mountains and we were almost at their doorstep!
The trail swisted and winded throught the pine covered mountains and soon skirted east allowing the expansive desert to the east to be put on display. It was might beautiful! Trekking on the trail pushed us to the backside of the moutnain, back down into the high desert. We all started leap frogging and hiking at differet paces. Back and forth we went until finding a nice spring to grab water and take in some lunch.
It had been a really nice day and the little oasis in the canopied canyon was gorgeous. Other hikers came and went, grabbing water, and the 3 of us took in a nice long break! There was only 1 climb betweeen us and camp. Six miles, 2000 feet of gain and nothing but mountain top views (we hoped)! We finished up, packed up, and headed on. Sissyphus, Ladybug, and I stuck together on the climb like a well oiled machine. Took a nice solid pace and didnt let up until the mountain did! As we gained the trsail the wind became more ands more hostile.
We kept pushing on and the wind just kept getting harder! The half bent over pines told the story that this was the norm here in this little cooridoor and it was up to us to endure as the pine did. We pressed on step after step, mile after miles, until finally we came to a windswept campsite. We ducked down on the east side of the ridge and there was practically no wind! We chose our camp and set up. The trees above still screamed from the wipping wind as if it were angry we temporarly escaped its grip! I was glad to have a nice chill spot, and soon all of us were fed, and receeding to our tents from the wind. A great day indeed!
You ever know when an angel will come and save your life!
I woke to a gorgeous sunrise! Our camp the night before was atop Skinner Peak, and when we rose we had a magnificent view as reward for climbing the mountains the night before. What a great way to start the day! I chatted with the trio who camped nearby as I started to pack up. They were a couple hiking the trail with their daughter. This was a first for me to find on the trail, I had not encountered another full on family.
After finishing up my packing I stood ready to take on the day with coffee in hand. I said fairwell to the family and walked to where Cowboy (Mike), Sissyphus (Hidde), and Ladybig (Paul) were camped. They were still packing up so I decided to press on. The golden light was still magnificent as I trekked on. The light streamed through the trees and lit the beaten trail as it winded across the mountain.
As the trail decended the forest I took in all the trees, chirping birds, and scarce squirrels I could see. The day was perfect temps and it was just a lovely trail winding through the mouanins. I soon found a nice spot break and the fellas caught up and passed me up. After I was done I pressed on and the trasil finally escped the mountainside and spit us onto an old dirt road that crossed an open high desert. The trail bumped up and down, until finally finding its way over a saddle and we started the last decent to walked pass.
Long and stretched out switchbacks skirted us on the moutnainside and we once again decended to the desert. The sun began to warm us as it did. I sipped on the last bit of water out of 1 bottle, knowing I’d have just 0.5 liters in another left to hold me over. We needed to get to the trailhead. Trekking on, trying to keep up woth Ladybugs long legs as we chatted, we decended the trail. Finally we popped out to find Garlic, a trail Angel, under a pavilion making up some guac! Man what a treat, trail magic is the best!
Couple of cold beers, guac, chips, and resfreshing water brought us all back to life. We needed to get to Lake Isabella and hitching was the first mode on all our minds. We walked towards the road we saw a lady dropping off a hiker (Happy) and we flagged her down. She said to jump on in and we threw our packs in her hatch. Her name was Lisa and was in town visiting her father on a break from teaching and going to school (for her teaching degree).
She was great! She drove us the 1 miles to Onyx so Sissyphus could pick up a package at the post office, then waited on us and drove us all the way into town. We stopped at a place called the Shadys Bar and got food and a beer to recharge our sprits. There was a pool table nearby and we all had a go at playing. Afterwards Lisa offered to give us a ride 0.5 miles down the road to the Vons (grocery store) we were so glad. Upon arrival, she said she enjoyed hanging out with us and didnt have much to do that day so she was going to give us a ride back to the trailhead after we finished shopping. What a true angel all the way! We quickly shopped and chatted in the car on the ride back. Once there we cooked up smores for all the hikers camping nearby before finally crashing out. Lisa made our days, its always nice to find kindess in places you never expect it!
Trail Angel:
Lisa – 32, An elementary school teacher, living in Berkeley. Her father lives in Lake Isabella, a truck driver, whom she learned her sharp whit and can-do attitude from. She aspires to hike the PCT herself once her school is completed.
I woke and after the mourning routine was ready for the trail. Sissyphus, Paul, and Mike were all packing up and getting ready as well as the usual banter started on. Mike piped up, pointing to the outhouse, “Someone left a huge mess in the basement of that playhouse!” We all roared in a laugh and finished up our packing before heading out.
I pushed on first, hiking out of the awesome camp into the pine forest. Over the next few miles the forest spit us out back into the desert below as we decended the trail. We trekked on and soon found a water cashe at 7 miles. Thankt the lord for trail angels in this dry section of trail! Without some of the strategically placed caches I could see this being a very hard stretch.
The gang all rejoined at the cache, then we pushed out together across the vast desert landscape. We could see it changing, the mountains were half desert, half grante, givinmg prelude to the Sierras to come. We took in the sights before another nice break 6 miles later.
The push t the next cache was a warm one and I pressed on first. The trail had become sany and I watched the lizards scamper at the sight of my approach. Twisting and turning I pressed on up through the moutains and finally over a last long hill to the next cache. It was like we had hiked into a new bubble of hikers, most of the people here I had never seen or met, We said hi and cameled up.
There was 3miles between us and camp and they, of course, were all up hill. I took it on in ernest and before I knew it, sweating, panting, heart racing, I gained the 1700 feet to the top where camp awaited. The fellas trickled in and soon diner was made and we were als linking off to our tents. What a great day!
Hiker Profile:
1liner – 32, from Ohio Originally, he went to school in Wisconsin for Physics and Math. Them after having trouble finding a job after the 2008 crash he went to a tech school and learned to be a machinist. He settles in Seattle and worked there for quite a few years. He wants to have his own machine shop and has started purchasing tools. He attempted the PCT in 2007, but after contracting a neuroviris and puking and deficating for 3 days straight every 3 hours, he decided to leave the trail and come back this year to try again.
Paul – 23, From Davis, he studies Political Science at UCSantaBarbara. He really went there to run and standing at 6’3, 160 at the time, he was quick. Unfortunatly a sting of injury stunted his career. His girlfriend is in San Francisco working with foster kids. She is scheduled to come in 1 month to hike with him. After the trail they will figure the rest out together.
The alarm becconed and I unwantingly answered. After the usual morning routine I immerged from my secluded campsite made for 1 and headed down to the spring below where Sissyphus and Paul were packing up. We chatted for a bit, but with coffee in hand I was ready to get going.
The morning was pretty chill. The trail meandered up and down, on the side of ridges covered in windmills until finally resing on a saddle. I stopped after craning out 7 and had a nice morning chicken and pepperoni burrito and looking at the views. Of all the things that ran in and out of my head (as lots of things do when all you have is time to think or observe the trail around you) I began woundering about what life would be like after the trail. Just then Sissyphus and Paul came rounding the corner, easily bounding with their long strides. We chatted for a few and they pressed on leaving me to the views.
I packed up and pressed on twisting and turning through the open landscape, spotted with canopied scrub oaks. I was enjoying the stroll when suddenly I heard a rattle! I instantly knew what it was and scanned the yellow field to find a curiously colored rattler sounding off. He was yellowish green, a Mojave Green. He carried a serious reputation and after looking at him, I carried on.
By the time I got to the spring there was a group of hikers just handing out. Sissyphus amd Paul, including Mike were among them and I took one of the longest rests of my time on the trail.
Sissyphus and I walked the remaining 7 miles together from camp. We were talking about US history, as well as Holland war history. It was always intertestung to me to get someone elses viewpoint, especially when they arent from the US (his from Holland). We chatted on and the miles melted below the beautiful pines.
We finally made camp and filtered from an awesome spring tub nearby. There we met Burn who was from Iowa, claimed Austin TX, but now lives in orange county. She was a nice girl with pink and green hair. We all filtered water in prep for the push thew next day (42 dry miles!). Both Paul and Sissyphus took a dip. I just went for the hair and a few pairs of socks that needed some TLC. It was food, stretches, and fire before finally subdues by the becconing of the tent that we all crashed out.
Hiker Profile:
Spirit kick (Ethan) – From Phoenix, lives in Anthem. He came out to hike the trail while his two sisters stayed back and help take care of his house and send him packages. He had shin splints for some time and actually came off trail for a week to rest up before resuming and pressing on. Not a fan of people rambling on about all the snow in the Sierras, hes just ready to get there and see whats its like for himself!
Trench foot. I lost a sock just 2 days before, so the third day of wearing the same dirty socks was getting to my feet. Coming into Tehachapi we hiked 30 miles and my foot was fed up. It felt like irritated skin on the underside of my right toes. After inspection, I concluded that something had to be done. Two pair of socks for Big 5 and some Tanactin cream later and I was on my way to being right as rain!
We took a zero to get a good full rest. We camped in the back of the Red House BBQ place and tooled around the western town. There was a Memorial Day celebration, and all kinds of cowboys and cowgirls decended ln the town for music, 2step, and good food. After resupplying and enjoying the best food in town, we crashed out ready for the next day!
Day 44:
Louis, Mike, Baxter, Sisyphus, Paul, and myself woke early in the back yard of the Red House BBQ. Conviniently next door there was a diner that opened at 5:30am and after some of us packed our bags we headed over. It was a nice sendoff before getting back on trail. Pancakes, bacon, eggs, good hot coffee, anything your heart desired!
We debated back and forth after no Trail Angels, No Uber Drivers, or Lyft drivers answered our need for a ride. The guys were still sorting it out when I decided just to start walking and put my thumb out. Just a quarter mile later Jeff (trail angel) and 3 other hikers stopped and picked me up in a big diesel truck. I was on my way to the trailhead!
I was excited to start again, the temps were great and the wind was blowing. Nothing like the nightmare heat it could be. I trekked on, through the rolling hills between the wind turbines, just enjoying the vast views. I took a break after reaching a road walk and stopped for a snack.
Soon Paul and Sissyphus came rolling up with big smiles on “Hey man!” we both exclaimed! The three of us trekked on together as the other fellas decided to skip the “boring” mile section. By then the heat started coming on and we echanged stories about back home as we walked along the interstate. After a mile or so, the trail turned towards the moutnain on single track and it was time to get after it. Up and up we went. About half way the boys took a break from the heat and I kept kicking for the top. After about 3 miles of nice uphill grade and a cool advantaging wind I found the top. The wind seemed to gather the perfume from all the purple lupin in an entire field and brought the scent to our noses. It was a nice change to the usual hiker funk! Soon after I stopped, the fellas joined me in a nice break!
We rolled through the rest of the terrain on our own. Up dirt roads, twisting through songle track. At one point I met a cool couple on their honeymoon. It sure was nice to meet all the interesting people out here!
The miles melted away and finally I was on the last descent of the day as the golden hour took over. Views were incredible and expansive, and I just took them in as I rolled the remaining trail to camp. There I found a whole load of hikers along whith Paul and Sissyphus. We greated, filtered water, cooked, stretched, and were in our beds in under an hour. Hikers live by the sun, in bed at sundown, up and moving at sunup. What a great day!
Hiker Profile:
Queso and Husk: A couple of thru hikers just slackpacking on a nice section of trail. I met them, sitting on the bench, in no hurry to go anywhere, taking in the views and enjoying the weather while it lasts. Its hard not to smile out here!
Popeye and Trex: On their Honeymoon after a recent marriage. They were both from Oklahoma to begin with. Trex moved to LA where she lived for 29 years. They met and held a long distance relationship for 6 years. Once Popeye retured and the kids moved out, Trex moved back home and they were now married. Taking on the PCT with big smiles and hopes for the future!
The wind lightly caressed my tent all night. Not sure why, but I woke without being fully rested. It was time to move and I had light hopes of making it to Tehachepi by the end of the day. Just a cool 29 miles away.
In the middle of the night at 9:45pm and again at 1:15am I heard people passing my tent, nighthiking the flat open desert section afraid of the heat (which was nonexistant). I chose to hike it in the day and packed up and rolled out with a surprisingly light pack as I was working on my last day of food.
I soon met Poke and Spicy from South Africa. We chatted as we hiked town the flat trail with windmills towering above. They had been all over the world, trekking together and this was just another trip for them. We came across Fairweather, hiking on with some hurt feet just before the first water resupply.
We all topped up on water and I stopped for a snack. They pressed on and I got in the solo mood and started hammering. I passed the new friends and trekked through the hills making it to the next water resupply where I found a few other hikers gatheringwater from the shallow creek. The next few miles twisted and winded through the mountains, until I came to a large dropoff preceeding the last big gain of the day.
Up and on I went, my favortie kind of trail. The gain was good, the views incredible, and I soon came upon Fig Papa having a tough time heading up the grade. He was distraught about his bother forgetting to send him a new pair of shoes to Tehachapi Post Office and the ones on his feet were well beyond their life. His feet were pretty done, but grin and bearing it, he knew there was 10 more miles to go to the road. We stopped briefly at a trail magic oasis at mile 549 to rest the feet and chat with other hikers. I then pressed on the next 10 miles alone.
It was all down hill and my feet were pretty beat, but the scenery made up for it. Wild flowers came out to play and the cool weather made it all worth while. I finally reached the trailhead where Happy Feet was hanging out in his FJ with a huge smile on his face. We chatted and he gave Mike, Paul, Sisyphus, and myself a ride to Tehachapi. We stopped at the Red BBQ place and gorged on some incredibly good food. Wow is all I can say, if you are ever in town, make the stop! The owner Mimi let us camp out back for free and we took full advantage. What a great day!
Hiker Profile:
Spicy & Poke: From South Africa, a married couple that traveled the world together. They were both climbers, hikers, and all around adventurers. They had recently sold their house and bought a new one in Capetown which they rented out for this trip. Leavin their cat to their brother and their computer programming jobs behind. They hit the trail excited to see what the PCT had to offer. They were taken it back by the beauty and diversity of the desert thus far, every day brought something new to the table. They were both eager for the Sierras although a little unsure of the snow as they had not much experience with it. Both out there, smiling, enjoying the journey as it came!
Alarm blasting, waking up with a wet bag, and going through the motions. It was 41 days in and I most definitly wasn’t tired of waking up and getting the chance of walking all day and taking in the views.
I headed out, soon stopping at a dirt road that lead to a cistern. It was said there was a dead snake in the water, at this point I was going for it. Sticks and bottles with their tops cut off laid near the opening. Apparently the method was to tape a bottle on a stick dipping it in the water to extraxt your portion.
Soon Sisyphus and the boys came walking down the hill after I was nearly done. Sisyphus employed a new method, he bent down sticking his whole body into the opening of the cistern and dipped out water by hand. He also went as far to pull the snake out, what a guy! I thought it was funny that is was him (Sisyphus) to pull out the snake that died obviously by drowning after attempting frutaly to escape it’s inevitable death. . .
After, we all trekked on, and what a beautiful trek! We rolled through the hills and the light shone through, soon the hills opened up and I could see the dry desert below. “Bring on the heat”, I thought! The beautiful meadow I was strolling through reminded me of walking down an Alabama country road. Birds chirping, golden light shining through, it was pretty serene.
Snaking through the next few miles I finally exited at a place called HikerTown where a bunch of other hikers were hanging out. We caught a lift to the diner 4 miles away where I ordered some food and recharged the batteries.
After betting back, chilling, and filling up on water I took off into the flat open desert. After a few miles walking by farm houses and plots of land I found the LA aquaduct, and eventually a huge pipe that feeds it. As I walked along its top I thought of all the peoples water below my feet, looking around seeing not a drop to drink. I bet some never even think of how far their water traveled just to be at the convinience of the flick of a wrist at the kitchen sink.
I trekked a few more miles, enjoying the cool temps and the joshua trees all around. My feet were tired and I found a nice spot to hunker down. Tent up, food in my belly, I layed down to rest, pretty happy with the days work behind me!
Hiker Profile:
Snake Patrol – From Saskatchewan Canada, hee had just graduated college and never had gone backpacking before in his life, before the PCT. He graduated in Mechanical Engineering and did some interships in his home city. Hopefully hell get a fulltime job post PCT where his gilfriend lives. Hes always been into some kind of sports, and played american football for all 4 years in high school as a tight end. He plans to get back onto his hockey team as soon as he gets back, and has really enjoyed hiking it with his best mate from school, Bakster.
I woke a little later than usual. I still felt the stickiness from dew or moisture from a fog that rolled through the night before and expected it on the hike that day. After packing up and walking to the front, breakfast was served! Pancakes and coffee waited anyone who desired them. I was elated and brabbed a plate, ready and hungry.
Knowing a needed to get moving, I said goodbye to the other hikers and grabbed my bag starting the 2 mile road walk back to the trail. Before I got tot the first stop sign, Terri and 2 other hikers pulled up asking if I wanted a ride. “Hell yes” came out of me involuntarily. I hopped in, and minutes later was setting foot on trail. I thanked her for the ride and got moving.
The foggy cloud of course awaited me and I welcomed it with open arms. I snaked through the manzanita as the trail gided me through the mountains. Finally after quite a few miles the fog burned off and I could see the views in the distance. Soon Sisiphus caught up to me and we chatted for bit as we trekked on. He was from Holland, and after visiting Californis in his teens, he came back with a bigger adventure in mind.
I waved him on and took a break in the sun, it was snack time and a nice chicken burrito satisfied my desire. I looked north, to the desert, knowing full well that i would be down in the furnace the next day. Enduring the heat, and hopefully fairing well. The open high desert turned to a canopied forest. It was beautiful with little strands of light finding their way through the leaves of the trees. I snaked my way though.
After playing a game of treasure hunt for a water cistern at Sawmill Camp I got back on the trail and headed on. The miles at the end of the day sometime seem hardest. I think its mainly for the bloode gorged feet that have been pounded for the last 20+ miles that are pleading for help. I gave them no relief, and kept hiking. I soon found Sisyphus, Paul, and Mike, setting up camp for the night. I paused and we chatted before I pushed the last mile and a half to Bear Trail Camp. I was tired, and glad to be there. So were my feet, especially when I finally released them from their shoe prison. Whew man, a big fbut fun one!
Hiker Profile:
Fig Papa (John): From Rhode Island, he pressionally sails boats for a living. Everwhere from 10 foot skippers to 100 foot yachts, he serves clients by racing their beastly masterpieces all over the world. He loves that fact that he is land locked on trail. Here on the PCT he is as far as could be from any boat or boat talk. Really taking a break from it all!
All eyes were set on Casa De Luna. A group of us wanted to get there and my 2 buddies Lucas and Bones wanted to attempt the 24-24-24 Challenge. Like most challenges, they made no sence and you were required to make an ass of yourself and prove your worth as a hiker, or a man, or something like that. The test was to walk from Hiker Heaven to Casa De Luna, a distance of 24 miles, while consuming 24 beers, and completing this feat within 24 hours. Did I mention this is all on the DL?!
I of course agreed to go along and babysit as the voice of reason. Honestly to get some good pics and video of the whole thing! We set out, stopping at the grocery store where both fellas loaded up with 24 beers and we were off. They cracked the first beer where Section D started, and we were off. We chatted as they went, took the pictures, video interviews of course. Both seemed pretty confident and dedicated, only 2 beers in of course.
We finally got off the road and back onto dirt trails. WE rekked on with a good pace. Bones had sent his food forward to Casa De Luna, Lucas decided to carry everything. I was surprised at how quick they still moved. The fog was waiting in the moutins for us and soon engufed us as it did me the day before.
They drank on and we chatted about all kinds of subjects. Eight miles in we took our first break and it seemed like a huge portion of hiker heaven had been released. WE saw at least 20 peopel come through all buzzing about the challenge, everyone in good spirits. They had drank 10 beers before 10 am and were pretty proud. The fog burned off and I new the hardest part of the day awaited us.
The sun started beaming down and we walked on. The laughter and chattiness wore off as they approached beer #16, and I knew they both needed to drinlk wter, I forced them both the chug half a liter. WE hiked on and the gain stared to pick up as we did. Lucas got this idea in his head about the perfect place to hang out and relax for a few hours while trying to have a few more beers from the sun. Ever tried to be the voice of reason to a guy 16 beers in? Let me save you the time, dont try!
It became pretty obessed in his mission, and after me asking him to take a 5 minute break while I take care of busniness of my own, he delaired it wasn’t personal and pressed on. At this point I deemed they were on their own. I found them a few miles later, huddles up in the spot he recalled. Crushed beer cans and a look of relaxed pride after finding his paradise was across Lucases face, Bones was indinfferent. I walked in chatting for a few and finally said y goodbyes to finsih out the last 7 miles of the day.
By the end I caught up to Fugi and Dino (Silver Fox), and I could feel the miles in the bulding of my feet. I was ready to be done. We walked out of the trail, surprosed to find Nancy Pants, a trail Angel, waiting to give us a ride to Casa De Luna! What a treat!
We arrived, and there were tons of hikers. The manaznita forest out back where we all camped was the most impressive bit. After a hug to Terri (she owned the place), a borrowed hawaiian shirt, and some free taco salad dinner I was set. It ws such a nice positive vibe and everyone was happy to be there, a great day indeed!
Trail Angel: Nancy Pants – lived in the town and loved hikers, being one herself. She enjoyed being recieved as someone’s joy at the end of a long day with a free ride and a smile!
I woke wet and damp. It wasnt dew, but something finer, and once I got out of my tent I could see what it was. A fog had covered the surrounding mountains and its humidity must be the cause of the wetness. I got up, packed up, and hiked out of the KOA.
I hiked up and into the fog and it was delightful! At first I thought it would be irritating, but it wasnt cold and the wind wasnt howling. I hiked on and up into a landscape that held large rocks with formations that reminded me of a creek bed.
I saw a coyote stop me, leap from his morning rest spot and take off, tearing up the hill. It was some of the better wildlife I had seen so far! I kept snaking through the mountains. Up and up I went until I was fully engulphed by the cloud. Once I peaked the ridge, I could hear a roar from a road below. I wasnt exactly sure what highway it was, and I couldnt see it, but I could hear it through the thick blanket.
I decended further until I could make out the road and the valley below with the trail leading to it. Soon I met Apineglo, a bearded man in a kilt, from Canada. He was a funny guy and didnt have trouble pirting out obsenities, like water from a spigot. WE trekked on, chatting together and soon safter hiking through a tunnnel, beneath the road we saw incredibe area of rocks that were molded by water and air.
We kept treking in snapping pictures left and right before climbing up the hill on the other side and heading further towards Auga Dulce. WE passed Vasquez Rocks, a pklace with incredible formations. It so happen to also be a site where part of Blazing Sadles was filmed!
After the rocks, we walked a few miles by road into town. WE sat together chatting on while eating breakfast at an open diner. I headed over to the grocery, grabbed my resupply, and headed towards hiker heaven. Once there Sidetrail gave me the rundown of the place. They had laundry, shower, charging stations, computer to use, tv and a ton of movis, plenty of space to camp, and even trimmers to cut your hair if you needed! It was pretty awesome!
After making a quick Lyft run to REI, I returned triumphant with a new pair of shoes, new baselayer, and new sox! Fresh clothes and a shower, it really is the little things in life! Later that night I grabbed some wood and a bunch of us started a fire in the pit. One of the guys who volunteed at the place came over asking if we had asked for permission. The logs and an empty pit was more than permission for me, but then and there I was named Fire Marshall. Apparently I was in charge of extingushing the flame at the end of the night and I could tell anyone to go to bed. Hahha, laughs ensued and people joked about making it my trail name. It wouldnt be the first, and im certain not the last.
I woke to the sound of electricity buzzing in the air above the camground. The large powelines that rose overhead ran from the Fire House too the street below. Like every morning, it was time to move. I hiked on and up the hill on my own leaving the group behind. The rolling hills before me were nice and I enjoyed the gain.
On I pushed until finding a beautiful cloud covering the entire valley below and the moutain tops were the only things that poked through. It was like looking at huge sea monsters moving through the deep sea. I hiked on greeting the Gazel Boys (4 guys who grouped together from the first day at Scout and Frotoes) and soon after Cricket. We chatted for a bit for a while as we hiked.
I told her about phoenix and why my shirt was all tattered and torn. We hiked on and further, and the gain started to pick up and I pressed on. Finally I came across an awesome overlook from a saddle. One thing I could say is that almost every day seems like a post card on the trail. I soaked it in.
After having a snack I pressed on the next miles and kind of floated as I did. Soon I pulled into the Ranger station where I stopped for water. There were free hotdogs up for grabs. Man we are getting treated so well here! After pressing on I had just 8 miles to the KOA for camp and I seemed to just go into my own head. Taking the gains on as fast as I wanted, and zooming on the downs where my feet would let me.
Finally I came upon the road that lead to the KOA. Coppertone, a trail angel was propped up at the trailhead, but I was too much in a hurry to get to the KOA before it closed at 5pm. Ice cream, a hot shower, and a jacuzzi awaited me after the quick 0.2 mile walk. I posted up, and was pretty content overall. The group started trickling in slowly and I slipped away to check email and do some administrative work before settling in for the night. Another great day!
Hiker Profile:
Cricket – Early 20’s from Houston Texas who moved to Readding CA. She Trail Angeled for PCT hikers in northern Cali from time to time before finally deciding to make the move herself to take on the huge adventure. She had ripped her first shirt, lost her Anker charger in the first week, and seemed to be taking it all in stride. Her shoulders were burnt from the new dress she baught to maek up for the shirt. She enjoyed trekking outdoors and was very interested in Wildlife Biology. Perhaps she’ll persure it after Canada.
The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire . . . – Rock Master Scott & the Dynamic Three
I woke, early as usual. I could still hear the creek just campside gurgling away. It was time to move! I went through the morning routine and was soon standing with my coffee, leaving camp, waving bye to those who were up, and woundering if those still snuggled in their bags were going to sleep in.
I pressed on, after stopping to put my hoody away when Amanda caught up to me. I had met her briefly in Wrightwood and again the night before, but this was the first time we ever actually got to chat. We rambled on as we walked and I asked about where she came from, which I was happy to sit back and listen to as we hiked up and out of the valley.
The views were gorgeous, and we took in the morning light. Soon we came upon Camp Glenwood where we stopped to rest and grab water. Soon the rest of the gang showed up! There were free post cards including postage on a post board nearby and I grabbed one to send out (you’ll find out who you are soon enough). We chatted and snacked before leaving the nice small camp.
I trekked out with Lucas and we chatted as we went rolling through the hills, heading up through the high desert and the pines. It was a really nice day and we bobbed from road crossing to road crossing. Finally we all started to split off into our little bubbles trekking through the landscape. Cool Runnings caught up to me on the downhill and we chatted as we went. He told me about his service in the military and his maintenance on Helos. I told him about my time as an Engineer in the repair and overhall plant in Phoenix I had done. We laughed at the small connection you find in unexpected places.
Cool Runnings
We came upon Lucas chilling under a tree, and soon took a quick break before pushing on and up through the brush laced trail to the pines above and eventually a beauful saddle that overlooked the valley west. We all took a break, eating lunch and enjoying a little down time.
Ready to press on after some good snack, we hiked down the last few miles to the Fire House. The words Beer and Pizza were all it took to bring most of us running! Doug, a hiker, was there just handing out free food to anyone interested, asking no thanks in return. We thanks him anyway. We mashed down and hiking just a little further down to camp. There we stretched, ate, joked on about thai ramen, and the 24-24-24 challenge (more info to come), and things we had seen on trail. It was a solid day, everyone was in good spirits and the views of course were incredible.
Hiker Profile:
Amanda – 33, from Portland, hiking with her dad who just so happened to qualify for the Boston Marathon. She has her Bachelors from Portland State in Hearing and Speech Therapy and did some shadowing all while working as a waitress as Ruth Criss. She loves helping those in need and is excited to go back to grad school once completing the PCT.
Lucas – 20s, Lucas is a funny character. Funny in that he always seems to have a look on his face that he is pondering something deep written across his face if you aren’t speaking to him directly. When you do speak with him he is funny, chatty, and on a mission of his own. He can trek fast and hard. He attempted the PCT in 2017 which was brought to a hault by fired in Oregon and Washington. After coming off trail he found it hard to readust coming so close to finishing. He’s back this year with a lot of energy and vigor for cleaning up the unfinished business he has.
Cool Runnings, Madalyn, Lucas, and myself woke early in the morning to meet Madalyn’s Uncle Matt, who lived intown and offered to give us a ride at 6am. The day before (Day 34), we all decided to take a full zero and recover. It was well needed. Plus we watched Cool Runnigs and Austin Powers (lil throw back 90s action). So once matt arrived we all piled into the truck and we were off.
The morning was chilly and getting going was like brushing dust off an old tractor that had been sitting in a field for 10 years. The views were great though and we snaked through the landscape quicky until finally finding the start of the uphill to Mt Baden Powell. It wasn’t killer gain, but with 4 days food resupply and water to get me and ther 10 miles, it was energy draining!
It wasn’t as steep as the push to Mt. Baldy just 2 days before, but for some reason my body was still trying to shake off the dust. I pressed on, up the switchbacks one by one. About 3/4 of the way up, I ran out of gas and had to start pushing will my will alone. After some good grunts and groans, I topped the windy peek to find and american flag, gorgeous views, and Luke playing the Ukulele.
I sat and took it in, looking back to where we were days before. Really stellar views! We chatted on as everyone arrived, and dispersed just the same. It seemed it was a day of every man for himself, and I was alright with that.
I hiked the next miles through the landscape, glacing on to the distance and really enjoying it. At one point I met Luke on a stellar trailside rest stop overlooking a cloud covered valley. I joined him, and we chatted about all kinds of things.
It was time to push on, and the next few miles melted away. I finally was stopped when we came to an endagered species trail closure and had to road walk. Bones joined me for a bit and we chatted before making it to Buckhorn Campground where there was a big group of PCTers and a couple of trail angels cooking up hotdogs for everyone. Man what a nice treat!
We chowed down and decided to walk on a bit further down the trail and not to get sucked into the camp. Sometimes its nice to be in a big group, but sometimes a smaller group on a backcountry campsite with a gurgling creek is whats needed. Thats just what we found, just 2 miles ahead. Luke was sitting in camp, chilling. Bones and I, and eventually Amanda, Hannah, Cameron, Madalyn, and Cool Runnings trickled in. We all hung out, ate dinner, did stretches, and hit the bed. A good day indeed!
I woke up early, packed up, and got my butt moving, I was hoping to hike from our camp to Hwy 2 and catch a hitch into Wrightwood before everything closed down at 5pm. It was only 13 miles away, but the challenge was doing the 7.5 side trip to the top of Mt Baldy and back and also finishing the 13. Needless to say I was moving.
There was and awesome cloud looming over the San Bernadino Mountains to the East. I snapped pictures as I trekked on. The only person I saw that morning was Eagle, he was doing his thing solo and I wasnt about to disturb him. A dull pain started up in my left knee as I hiked through the morning. I told myself that it would go away, but it persisted. It would start up like an orchestra tuning a D string, and fade as they found the note. It wasn’t sharp, or quick, just a dull roar. I trekked on until finding my tunoff.
I dropped down onto the road below, set up my tent, stashed all my gear except my bag, some water, and a snack. I started hiking down further to the saddle just before the trail took off, upwards, towards Pine Mountain (first of 2 summits before baldy). The gain was unforgiving and hardy.
Up and up I went , until finally finding the top of Pine and I could see all the way to Mt Baldy, and I understood the full extent of the trek I bit off. The trail dipped far down between the saddles of the peaks and I would have to regain all I lost just to get to the next. There was no other way, I was commited. Off I went.
Finally I reached the 2nd peak, Dawsons Peak. It had a register and I saw someone comment “now to regain 1200 ft to Mt Baldy”. “Oh goody”, I said. I thought back to Phoenix and Squaw peak having similar gain and how every Friday Pete Kennedy, Dane Butow, and I would meet and race each other to the top after work. Shoving elbows and talking trash, we would edge each other on, until redlining the heartbeat and leaving it pinned there until finally we reached summit and gasped for air.
Dane and Pete weren’t physically there that day, but they hiked that last hard push with me. I pressed hard, sweating, heart pumping, until finally by almost some miricle the gain stopped and I reached the top.
The views were great! I met Zack and John at the top and we chatted for a bit. After snacks and a break I said goodbye and headed back. Finally after a few grueling hours I had returned to my trail stash. Once back, Kevin, a day hiker, seemed to appear from nowhere. We chatted for a bit before he took off up the hard gain to Pine Mountain.
I hiked the final miles to the highway exhausted for the most part. I walked to the road and stuck my thumb out. Not but 5 minutes and a black SUV pulled to the side of the road and opened a door for me. Zack, his gilfriend and 2 dogs greeted me and we chatted as we drove to Wrightwood.
I had finally arrived, soon found the Moutnain Hardware store, food, and a group of PCTers that I ended up staying with in town. It was a good long day and I was beat. Not too beat to go out for a 2nd dinner and some beers in town with the guys, but definitly beat.
Day Hiker Profile:
Zack, John – I met these guys at the top of Baldy. Super nice and hooked me up with a little extra water so I could get back to my trail stash (I had slightly underestimated the gain and wanted a lil extra as backup).
Kevin – Nice guy from LA, clean cut, instagramer that liked to bag peaks from different trailheads.
Trail Angel:
Travis – Super nice guy with his girlfriend, puffing on some grape flavored vape, and sporting a shaggy curly yellow mane. They were locals and worked at the zip line place in town.
I woke up to a very wet tent. The condensation from my breath and the dew of the morning settled on my fly. It made putting my tent away feel like putting on wet underwear. Not very fun!
Never the less, I was up and moving down the trail taking in the views. I had little expectations as we neared interstate 15. I thought we would be just looking at and listening to a roaring highway the whole time. Instead the trail decended a beautiful flowing rollercoaster through the landscape, and it was so awesome!
The views were stellar and we dropped further down into a small canyon until finally just before being spit out on the side of the I15. There was a McDonolds just 0.4 miles away and we had all (there was a group of 15 PCT hikers all camped together) chatted about meeting up there for breakfast. We were all eager to see who woud take on the McDonald’s Challenge. It was Sean who stepped up to the plate.
The McDonalds Challenge was born when a guy resupplied his food with soley McDoubles for 90 miles. Since then its been modified a bit here and there. For the most part people try to make it to Wrightwood, just 28 miles away (and a lot of uphill) only on the fast food gooodness. Sean was stepping up to the plate with 10 cheese burgers and 2 McChickens. He ordered them all without condiments so that he could add his own later in hopes that the burgers would keep longer.
After bidding him good luck I headed back out to the trail. The sun was up, and after cresting a nice ridge I met Dino who sported a big smile and a salt and pepper beard. He was packing out a few burgers himself. I had too much food as it was and didnt want to risk the stomache issues. I pressed on up and over the ridge coming down the other side to a nice water cash. I sat down, pulled off my shoes, performed surgery on a thorn that had been in my foot from the day before, grabbed some grub, and grabbed an extra liter of water. The next push up the hill to come was going to be a good one.
As soon as I stood to leave, Dino and Jenn (the woman I met in Mission Springs a week back) walked up. We chatted about the lack of water in the miles to come and how it wasnt going to be easy. I said goodbye and pressed on.
The next few miles were great! All uphill and on a perfect grade. Up and up I went. Fueled by ramen, pringles, and gushers I hiked to my hearts content. The trail snaked and swirled and I took in the views and enjoyed every step.
inally around the 9th mile of the consistant gain, I met back up with Jelly Bones, Madalyn, and Fuji (a new friend I just met). We chatted and laughed about the McDonald’s episode and about Wrightwood to come. I pressed on just 1/2 mile more to a nice flat camp. Eagle, Jelly Bones, Madalyn, Windbreaker, and a few others rolled into camp. Food, stretches, bed, and lights out for me. What a nice day, beautiful views, great trail, and lots of laughs.
Hiker Profile:
Sean – Early 30s, from Seattle. Chose to take on the McDonald’s Challenge with 10 cheese burgers and 2 McChickens. A true legend of the day!
Alex and Michael – 28, best friends for 22 years. Roommates, not only in life, just also on the trail. 2 bros, hiking it out, sharing a tent.
Fuji – 30s, From Holland, working at a travel company designing pamphlet porfolios. She coordinated, selected, and refined photoes for places of interest. Ever seen a pamphlet for a city or vacation destination? She was the lady behind the scenes, working hard to bring you the product. After have lived in California for a year or so as a teenager, she decided it was the PCT to bring her back and really explore the state.
The best surprises are the ones you never see coming.
I woke early, went through the routine, and before long I was standing, admiring the sunrise with my pack on my back and a cup of coffee in my hand. Not a bad way to start the day.
Jelly Bones and Madalyn had just rolled out of their tents and I waved goodbye as I headed down the trail. The morning was cool, but not cold, and I figured the today would be a bit warm. I headed down the switchbacks and across the open lot before coming face with my first fording oppertunity. It wasnt bad, pulled my shoes off and filtered water as I crossed. Before long I was hiking back up into the mountians.
The trail skirted the west side of the San Bernadino Mountains and the views over the valley inundated with farms was pretty nice. I soon came up on Eagle, a German, chilling next to a small creek. I stopped, chatted, gathered water before Madalyn and Jelly Bones came rolling through.
It was time to trek, we three got back to the usual froghopping theme and pushed the next miles quickly. Just before the Silverwood Lake dam Madalyn pulled off to wait for Bones, I pressed on. The temps started getting warmer as I climbed until finally cresting over the hill and getting slapped in the face with views of Silverwood Lake.
What a paradise in the desert! I skirted the lake taking in the views until finally pulling into a pavilion at the far end of the lake. Some other hikers had ordered beer and pizza!!! What a treat! I grubbed down, gathered water and took a quick swim before getting moving again.
We all (there were at least 10 or so hikers) pressed on in tiers, taking the next 7 miles in stride as they meandered through the manzanita and sage brush maze. I finally reached camp, scouted a decent spot and set up. Soon the other hikers trickled in, plenty of room for all! After a good meal and stretching I found myself in the tent chilling out after another great day!
Hiker Profile:
Eagle – From Berlin, Germany. He has done a few long distance trails in the Germany, including the circumference around Berlin and a trail through the Alps. He loved the huge size of the US and wanted to try a big thru hike.
There was frost covering my tent. I woke cold and with the hood of my sleeping bag sintched down around my face. It was time to move. I kicked my Jetboil on, boiling water for coffee and started packing up.
I was soon on my feet trekking down the trail, blowing into my hands, hoping that the feeling would return to my numb fingers. Finally the sunlight warmed me and thawed me out as I winded through the pines.
I came to the Holcomb creek and took a break, snacking and filtering water. Soon, to my surprise, Madalyn and Jelly Bones rounded the corner. We chatted about the miles to come and the water resupply. Soon I was back on my feet saying goodbye.
Coulter pinecone
After a few miles I came across a Canadian couple who I had met the day before. Soon madalyn came screaming by, she had a good pace! I said goodbye after snapping their picture and took off. For the next miles Madalyn, Jelly Bones, and I leap frogged as we hiked out of the pines into the granite boulder speckled landscape.
We pressed on together until finding a bridge with a nice creek below. I walked down, pulled off my shoes, and sat on a log in the middle of the creek, feet plunged in. Once lunch and the break was over, I said goodbye to the girls and headed out.
The trail hugged the side of a canyon with Deep Creek at the bottom cascading down as it dropped. After snaking through the valley I took another break. The girls soon turned the corner and we resumed the leapfrogging.
We hiked past the hot springs, where there was an overwhelming crowd of nude guys hanging out in the pools. Welp I could have done without that mental image!
We trekked further down the canyon, until finally, as the sun set, we came to a trailside camp.
Hiker Profile:
Madalyn & Jelly Bones
They met in Frezno, both from Santa Cruz. Madalyn went to college at NYU for Environmental Science and Jelly Bones went to a college in Vermont studying Film and Biology. They both dabbled in climbing and hiking. They had both recently graduated and saved up deciding to hike the PCT together.
The alarm blasted, it was time to go. Izzie had been trekking with me for the last week, the time seemed to fly by. So fast that it seemed as though the day for her to head home had come way too soon. None the less, she gathered her things and we were soon both walking towards the bus stop just behind Vons.
Coffee in hand, it seemed as though we perfectly timed it. Not but a few minutes after arriving, the bus pulled up. We said our goodbyes and she boarded. I wasnt ready for her to go, but I knew I had a lot of miles ahead of me that weren’t going to walk themselves. I waved bye through the bus window as it pulled away. Turning, I headed to Vons to grab a food resupply.
After stocking up I headed back to the hotel, finished some administrative work, and packed up. I was ready to hit the trail. All morning my head seemed to be in a fog, perhaps it was too much coffee, perhaps it was not being used to beer I drank the night before. I sluggishly walked across town, back to he north side of Big Bear Lake arriving at the Couger Crest Trailhead.
Nauseated, I started to climb. The only thing I could think to do was just keep moving. I ascended, half in a daze. I soon reached my tent stash and packed it all up. After forcing a quick snack down my throat I just started walking. I feared that if I stop I might yak, and I didn’t have the time or the water to deal with that.
I walked the ridgeline, taking in the views when I could. It wasn’t until a few hours of dazed walking that the lathergic feeling finally faded. Somehow I had already walked 5 PCT miles and my stomache began to come back to life. I stopped and ate, chugged water, and tried to shake off the queeziness.
The next few miles were better. An awesome could inversion hung over the valley to the west, and I could finally appreciate the expansive views. I trekked on, soon finding myself at Little Bear Trail Camp. Shadow was there, already setting up camp. He had a bit of a belly that you could see under his black shirt. He had a few seemingly random tatoos on this forearms and legs. He had a small blue moon tattoed jut below his left eye and seemed to be missing his left front tooth. He seemed to train himself to try and cover it up by not smiling too big or pronouncing certain words. He seemed nice enough chatting as I walked up. I said hello, set up my tent, and went through the nightly routine. My stomach had settled, thank god!
Madelyn, Jelly Bones, Shadow, Greg joined the ranks of Little Bear Trail Camp as I sat and cooked my dinner of Knorr and mashed potatoes. We all chatted and ate dinner until 7, when we all retired to our tents. I was ready for a good night’s sleep!
It was time to go into town! There was no real rush as Izzie and I couldn’t check into the hotel until 3pm. I figured we would mosey on down just in time to grab a burger for lunch. We got moving, in no hurry, packing up camp and making coffee.
We easily trekked the 1 mile to the cutoff for Big Bear Lake and I stashed my 1 man tent, along with my sleeping bag, sleeping pad, and 4 liters of water up on the ridge. This would save me from carying a good 13 pounds of weight back up to the ridgeline. Slackpakcing? Maybe, but it was just more efficient than lugging all the stuff down and back up.
After dropping the ridge and cicling the lake we came into town. We stopped off at Get The Burger for a tasty burger, fries, and cold beer. It was a little pricey, but was just the thing needed to hit the spot!
We headed to the hotel, checked in, got clean, and scrubbed our clothes in the sink. After hanging out to dry for a bit, we were ready to hit the town! We headed towards Big Bear Village, where we ended up stopping at the Social Bar & Grill. They had some pretty good live music and we hung out for a bit. So long in fact that we ended up staying for dinner!
We headed back to the hotel. The next day Izzie was to get on a bus headed to town so she could catch a flight bound for Washington. I would once again be hiking on solo. It was a good day, nice to finally get clean for once, and really enjoy the small things Big Bear had to offer.
Life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.– Ferris Bueller’s Day Off
The day before was a nice big one, Izzie and I didn’t plan to but ended up hiking 19 miles to camp. So this morning we both moved like slugs and with all the additional miles we were only 6 miles from our dropoff into Big Bear so there was no rush.
It became a Lake day! We got up, packed up camp, and hiked down the trail through the wandering pines. Just 5 miles later we found a nice camp spot and set up for the night to come. Packing only food and water for the day we day hiked down towards the Lake for a nice lazy day (and much needed lake bath)!
We didn’t see many people until heading down the Cougar Crest Ridge Trail. Until then all we saw were lizards and a few red breasted woodpeckers. Pretty sweet seeing the wildlife. Once we hit the junction we started to see day hikers and PCTers.
We happily headed down the trail, taking in the sights of Big Bear Lake ahead. Before heading for our destination we stopped by the discovery center, filled up water and learned about the local wildlife.
After the center we finally arrived at the lake and the wind was blowing pretty good. It wasn’t cold, but with the wind you needed a jacket. We both braved the water and after acclimating to its temps we were grateful.
Chilling out and relaxing to appreciate small things off the trail is just as important as the PCT itself. We packed up, and hiked back up the hill to camp. Another great day! Tomorrow, Big Bear to resupply! I can taste the burgers already!
The human’s best survival quality is his ability to adapt.
The alarm blasted its insistent ring, letting us know it was time to start the day. We started the day without big expectations really, we figured we would just hike and see how far we got.
The first miles of the day were relaxed compared to the day before. Nice settle downhill through a pine valley all the way to a cool creek at mile 258. All the pain in my hips from the day before was totally gone. Maybe I just needed to break back into the backpacking groove!
On our way to the spring we kept leap frogging some of our camping neighbors from the night before. That’s when we met Kevin and Trout. Kevin went to school in Birmingham AL, an area where I had actually spent some time. Soon after meeting Kevin, Trout ran up and without introducing himself began to regale us all the tale of his runin with a scorpion . . . I’ll let his Hiker Profile tell the rest.
Once arriving at the 258 creek we ran into Mayo and Greyscale who we happily chatted with and learned they were both doctors and asked quite a few more questions about Sweden and how they came to meet. We sat by the trickling cool creek and enjoyed the break in the pines.
After filling up on water we pressed on, the gain became hardy again and it finally eased up once in the wide open high desert area where Joshua Trees started to appear. After trekking in the open desert for a bit we finally stopped to rest below a nice pine for a lunch break. A little Tanager bird chirped away in the branches above.
We pressed on further skirting the mountian and finally getting expansive views of the Lucerene Valley and a piece of the Mojave Desert. Finally we came to Highway 18 where we enjoyed a cool drink from some trail magic and a rest where we met Raider from Austria. He happily chatted, and was super friendly talking about the miles to come and the PCT McDonalds challenge (more to comb on this in future post)!
We said our goodbyes and Izzie and I pressed on, snaking through the hills enjoying the views of the desert and Lake Baldwin. We were halted by the Holcomb Fire closure at Mile 268. Talk about a burn, that area was scorched!We slogged the dirt road climb to bypass, man what a push! We finally met back up with the PCT and started desperately to find a flat spot to camp. After a few miles we finally found camp, a beer that we lugged from the trail magic cooler (thanks to Raider!), and incredible views of the setting sun.
What an unexpectedly nice big day!
Hiker Profile:
Trout – 20s, told us of the tale (from a few days before) where he was stung in the penis by a scorpion. He was filtering water 3 miles into his hike, when the arthropod crawled into his shorts and stung him. Only 15 miles later with a swollen situation, he exited the trail to get assistance.
Kevin – 30s/40s, grew up in ATL, went to UAB at Birmingham for Engineering. He moved to San Diego where he worked as a quality engineer for a small production plant. He saw the movie Wild and figured “I can’t let that bitch Reese Witherspoon show me up”. He took a leave of absence and started hiking!
It’s a funny thing to think about cutting your toothbrush in half, or only carrying 2 pairs of underwear . . . but all those little things start to add up.
I realized it when Nick accidentally brought a car camping tent instead of my 2 man backpacking tent for Izzie and I to use. Honest and easy mistake, especially when so many other things were being stuffed in the car (and the tents are the same color). My point is simply the weight difference in the tents (I ended up borrowing Sam’s car camping tent) really seemed to make an impact. I felt the weight on my back, so bad it started to cut into my hipbones. First time I had that issue in 240 miles.
Aside from me crying about gear weight, it was an awesome day! We woke, and had a pretty lax morning, getting on the trail after 8. I was happy to get moving and we pushed over the first hill. We wandered through the San Bernadino Mountains switchbacking up a ridge and down the other side. Every time we came close to the west end of a ridge we could see the snow capped San Gorgonio staring at us. As we neared the east side of the ridge, Palm Springs and the desert to its north came into view. Happy we weren’t down in the 100 degree desert heat, we hiked on.
San Gorgonio
Izzie trekking on, the desert in the distance.
After a few miles of beautiful mountains we came across an animal cage. It house 2 grizzly bears and a tiger. It stated on the map notes that they were used for films. A strange find in the middle of nowhere. We peered in, the 2 grizz paced back and forth, needing a larger space. The tiger lounged around, not looking too bothered.
Yup, that’s a grizz!
Tiger sniffing the air
We pressed on, up the next ridge, and the pines began to change. Huge Junipers began to come into view, they were great and massive with red shredded bark and dark green leaves. Then we started to notice the mistletoe in the branches. Izzie told me it was a parasitic plant and that it would take over the tree by transferring its seeds through an explosive expulsion which just spread to other surrounding trees. I could imagine it eventually taking over.
Twisted junipers
Mistletoe taking over
Finally after a long day carrying a full resupply and a little extra weight we found ourselves at camp. We set up, and enjoyed the remaining sunlight before crashing out like tranquelized wildebeests. A really good but tiring day.
Hiker Profile:
Greyscale (Walter) & Mayo (Emily): A couple who lived in Sweden, but came out for the PCT. Mayo was originially from Cali, but now lives in Sweden happily with Greyscale. It was her dream to trek the trail, and Greyscale came for support. He started with her in Campo Ca and would continue until Big Bear where he would fly home and Mayo would continue on to hopefully finish the trail.
Izzie and I woke early, made coffee, and hit the trail before the sun hit us. Our aim for the day was to top Mount San Gorgonio standing at 11,503 ft.
We pressed on in the early morning glow with just day packs that were light as a feather compared to the usual boulstering backpacks. We found ourselves at the traihead and started out.
The trail was faint at best to start and several times we got off track, on a wash that looked like a trail until we realized it went nowhere. I pulled out my phone and checked the GPX, we were way off! We circled around and finally found ourselves on an established trail and started trekking. Rounding a bend we saw a nice large meadow lay off to the right and a small creek trickled trailside. Suddenly, three deer, startled by us, headed up towards the top of the hill far from sight.
Perfectly good signage!
We pressed on, finding Fish Creek just before slathering on sunscreen and leaving the protection of the trees into the sun drenched hillside. The gain was on! We headed up and on switchback after switchback until finally seeing the snow covered Gorgonio, standing proud.
After a quick break we climbed further up the side of Gorgonio and finally into some heavy switchbacks. Snow caked the trail and we kicked in steps as we went. After rounding the south side of the mountain we reached the final switchback! The end was near and we were both a little tired from the push. By this point the trees were now shrubs, and nothing but large granite boulders and chipmunks lived up here. The constant gain finally let up to the summit, we rejoiced and celebrated with a much deserved snack and rest!
The views all around were awesome, San Jacinto to the south, Mount Baldy to the west, the Mojave desert to the northeast and Palm Springs to the east. Satisfied with our feat we packed up and headed back down the trail we came, until finally after 20 good miles we arrived at camp ravenous for food and the remaining 2 beers we stashed. Another great day outside!
I was woken up at midnight with Nick, Sam, an Izzie shinning their lights into my tent. I expected them to be in a car, but instead they were on foot. The night before Izzie (girlfriend) flew into Ontario CA, and Nick and Sam (buddies from Phoenix) picked her up from the airport. They drove towards the camp I was staying at just to find a locked gate that stopped their progress and forced them to walk on foot. Six miles and nearly 2000 foot accumilated gain they they found theirselves at the doorstep of my tent.
I was pretty happy to see everyone and we quickly set up camp and crashed out in the chilly 30 degree weather. The next morning we woke late and decided that with most of the supplies back at the car that instead of summiting San Gorgonio, the best plan, was to walk down the mountain back to the car and find a camp for the night. We set up, dropped most of our gear off, and went into Big Bear to be tourists for the afternoon.
I felt like a king, eating, sleeping, and actually bathing, it was a nice experience. After getting back to camp and making a steak and potato dinner I went to bed happy as a clam.
The next day we got up slowly and had an awesome steak, egg, cheese, and potatoe burrito. After handing out for a bit we headed back up the moutnain where Sam and Nick left Izzie and I to fend for ourselves for the rest of the afternoon. We snacked, day hiked, and relaxed, getting ready for the next day attempting a summit bid on Gorgonio.
Resupply time!
Hiker Profile:
Jenn – 60s, Wanted to walk cross country after seeing Forest Gump. It wasnt until she worked in Yellowstone for 4 seasons, that she realized you could cross the country on a trail and not just on roads. She was a retired corrections officer, as was her husband. Once she stated that she wanted to hike the trail, her dusband told her she needs to act her age. After working in Alaska a few seasons her husband started becoming more interested in hiking but still not too keen on her hiking the trail. Despite her insistence, her husband faught her up to the day she left for the PCT, planning was difficult. Husband drop her off at Scissors Crossing, and met her down the trail at Warner Springs. Every time he sees her, he tells her she can leave any time. Finally he started to support, sending food and packages. Shes plans on only hiking to Northern California, taking her time as she goes. Avergaing just 10 miles a day, shes taking her time and enjoying every minute of it!
Whew it was cold last night! Camping at 8000 feet brought on the 30 degree nights. I woke several times, I wasnt sure if it was the cold, my need to go to the bathroom, or my excitement to see my friends Nick,Sam, and girlfriend Izzie who planned on meeting me on the trail later today.
I tossed and turned sintching my bag down around my face so you could only see my mouth and nose. I could lay there any longer as I felt the warm from the sun beaming on my tent walls. I got up and did the usual routine to get paked and eat breakfast.
I was soon walking back down the old logging road towards Mission Spring Trail Camp taking in the expansive views, and for once taking my sweet time strolling along. They were to meet me at the camp 12 hours later just 4 miles away, so I had no hurry. I checked out the Fish Creek trailhead we planned to ascend the next day to the summit of San Gorgonio.
I walked the dirt road back to the camp, chatted with a few passing PCTers. I reached the camp where I met an older fella Walk about Jim. He had 2 dogs with him and was pretty friendly. His cowboy hat had the PCT emblem on the front. I could see some old faded tattoos on his forearms. He sported a few bracelets and a leather pouch around his neck. He was from Tennessee, was out to hike the trail and just taking his time to enjoy it. He didnt seem to have the urgency to hall butt up the trail like some of the younger thru hikers, just seemed to really be taking it all in.
I set up my tent as we chatted for a bit. He packed up and pressed on with his little 2 dogs and his walking stick. Super nice guy! I continued on with my chores: gathering water, getting an ice cold spring bath, gathering wood for the nearby fire pits, and having a little lunch. Now all was left to do was wait, and enjoy the surroundings!
Hiker Profile:
Walk about Jim – 70s? From Tennessee, moved to the suburbs of Chicago for about 20 years before finally coming back to Tenn after his parents heath started to fail them. Before leaving Chicago he hiked and biked the length of the American Discovery trail from Chicago to Venice Beach, which I would imagine planted the seed of long distance adventures. After finally having a heart attack and triple bypass surgery to save his life, he decided it was time to focus on himself for a bit. He planned to hike PCT, CDT, AT (tripple crown). Not an easy undertaking, but with his 2 dogs by his side, he seemed determined. If all else I could tell he just loved being out in nature.
I woke early and got moving! The late start the day before had me a little groggy and unmotivated to press down on the miles, so I figured a presunrise start would do me some good. It was such a nice morning! I was protected down in the canyon from any weather and my only accompanyment was the gurgle from the trailside creek.
I trekked on, passing tent after tent where other PCTers slumbered, it felt really nice to be moving early. Something about watching the golden hour of the sunrise was magical. I rounded a courner and saw Matt, just getting up and starting his coffee. I was in such a good moving mood that I only stayed for a moment before pressing on.
Surprise note from my friend Marcella, what a nice find!!!
The views were awesome, the higher I hiked, the more I could see. Snowcapped hillsides came into view and finally so did a burn area. It had already started to recover, shrubs and low plants were coming through popping with fresh green. A few of the old soldier pines still stood, half burnt, yet keeping the green of their needles, standing big and strong. Most of the other strees were fully burnt, leaving only a hard white skeleton standing upright. A few trees had fallen obstructing the trail and I carefully stepped over the obstacles.
Soon coming into a clearing I saw Jason again. “Hey man!!” He exclaimed when he saw me. We caught up for a few minutes as I gathered some water. After a bit we said farewell and I pressed the final miles up to Mission Springs Trail Camp. What a nice place, a cool spring flowed nearby and pines shaded the area.
I decided to hike up an old logging road to higher ground so perhaps I could get signal and call Nick, who was driving out the next day to meet me. With little luck I had success and got through. After making one or two other calls I pitched my tent and set up for the night. The views from the mount were awesome, I could see San Jacinto, and all the way down into Palm Springs. Another great day!
Hiker Profile:
Pitch & Mustang – A father daughter team coming out of Alberta Canada. Yes, they had an accent, and were super friendly. They told me about the crap winters they have had this season and how it was unseasonably cold and snowey. Mustang had completed a bunch of research on the long distance trails in the US and after seeing that the PCT had the much less rainfall than the AT, she convinced her dad that this was the one. Hiking home, thats gotta be a good feeling and a good motivator to just keep on moving!
I woke and there was only little spurts of wind as opposed to gusts the night before. I was still tucked back in the meadow of the Whitewater Preserve and I wanted to make it a late morning to try and wait out the weather.
I had another small ant catastrophe, I think they got attracted to an empty coffee mug that I used to make Gatorade in. That’s how it goes sometimes. I packed up and did the morning routine, Matt was hanging back too and we hiked out of the Preserve together.
It was hard to get moving this morning for some reason, perhaps it was the lie in I had, or the 5 days of food I was carting around, at any rate the start was slow and sluggish.
The skies were still grey to the north and threatened rain, small spurts splashed us as we hiked across the flat of the Mission Creek floodplain. The trail finally started up a ridge and I was happy to get some gain and a higher view.
The mountains to the north were snowcapped and looking south, San Jacinto was also dusted with snow and shrouded in a thick cloud. We pressed on, taking in the views. I stopped for a moment to hang out on the ridge, Matt pressed on and soon Peanutbutter came hiking up the trail. I said hello and I had just finished my break so I decided to walk with him for a bit.
We chatted as we went up and down the hills, finally peeling off into the valley of Mission Creek which we would meander up until finally coming out at the headwaters, Mission Springs.
Peanutbutter pulled over and I kept on, catching back up to Matt. The valley was beautiful, brought to life by the creek, and guarded on both sides by large ridges, rising up nearly 1000 feet. The green plants and trees clung to the creekside, making a little oasis in the otherwise dry desert.
We kept on, hiking a few more miles, meandering up the canyon before finally finding a nice spot creekside with a big sandy pad. I plopped my stuff down, set up my tent, and got ready for dinner. I couldn’t think of a better place, the creek was gurgling, the temps were nice, and the site was flat, like it was made for a tent. Satisfied, I crawled into my tent and relaxed, calling it another good day!
Hiker Profile:
Peanutbutter – mid 20s, from Massachusetts, completed his undergraduate degree in Environmental Science, worked at seasonal jobs since he graduated and leveraged the temporary employment time period to complete the AT and now recently free of a relationship, looking for a new adventure found himself on the PCT.
I woke to the sound of a train in the middle of the night. Clicked play on my music and dozed back off. By daybreak I was up, packing things away and getting ready to head out. The other hikers that camped under the overpass were following suit.
In the distance I saw a woman walking up with 2 bags in her hands towards the group. “Who was this?”, I thought. I soon found out it was Deborah, a trail angel that lived in the neighborhood nearby.
She greeted us with a smile and brought breakfast and coffee, what a treat! I scarfed down a donut and said my goodbyes to the group. I hiked into the desert and the blustering wind.
Jacket on, buff pulled up, I was decently warm, and mostly glad that it wasn’t raining! I hiked in the foothills towards a dark grey cloud with windmills lining the ridgeline. I pressed on, past the neighborhood just north of the I-10, and soon hidden into the mountains to the north.
How far again??
Don’t mind the power poles!
The duality of the old broken down ranch pen (on the left) to the new modern transformer plant for the wind turbines (on the right) was a mark of the times.
I trekked through the valleys and up the sidehills chatting to hikers as we met. Marie, from France, was welcoming with a smile and wave. Her blue hat was capped over her red hair and jacket zipped up to warm her. She deliberated on stopping at a windmill Trail Angel stop that was supposed to have coffee, I pressed on.
Up and over a pass I went meeting both Nocoat and Jaime as I did. The views were great! Thunderheads grew in the distance to the north and the wind just seemed to blow harder. I hurried along, chatting as we went until finally dropping off the last ridge into the valley that housed the Whitewater Preserve, my home for the night.
Thunderheads forming
Bridges at the preserve
The preserve was pretty cool, it was an old trout hatchery that was converted to a wildlife preserve. Mountain lions, bobcats, lynx, bighorn sheep, roadrunners, lizards, dirty thu hikers, all the animals of the desert were welcome here. It was a nice place to rest, and I set my tent up for another windy night.
Map of San Gorgonio, w the PCT
Nice pool out back
Hiker Profile:
Jaime – From Minnesota, got his undergraduate and graduate degree studying insects, focusing on bees and their interactions with pesticides. Moved to SoCal with his now wife who works for the forest service monitoring bee habits. After working for the department of agriculture, decided to take a break, move in w his partner and trek the PCT.
Jaime on left, Nocoat on right
Marie – 20s very nice but shy and polite red headed hiker from France. We chatted a bit but never got past the formalities before she pulled off for a break and bid her well.
Trail Angel Profile:
Deborah – Awesome, nice, goodhearted woman rockin some trifocals and a huge smile. Came and dropped off fresh coffee, including cream and sugar with a side of donuts for the crew under the bridge!
The wind was really kicking. Felt like my tent was in a mosh pit and the heavy part of the song just hit. Finally at day break, it calmed long enough for me to pack my tent and bag up and get back on the trail.
Dana was up and ready as she seemed like an early morning gal, I said goodbye, took a picture, and headed out onto the trail.
Whatever the wind held back in that morning, it made up for over the rest of the day. I pinned my hat down and covered it with my buff to make sure it didn’t take flight as I walked through the flat desert after Snow Creek towards the I-10.
I could hear the roar of the highway grow closer, and soon found myself on a service road, walking with my thumb out. The Post Office didn’t open until 8:30, but surely someone would pick me up. . . . not a soul on the road headed my way until finally Jose, from Mexico in his little blue Nissan picked me up.
I thanked him, and grabbed my resupply box (Thanks Mark!) from the Post Office. Then after some administrative work at the town library, I headed to In and Out for a burger and fries that I had been craving all day.
Stuffed to the gills, pack heavy with 6 days of food, I set back out on the road towards the junction where the I-10 met the PCT. It was still chilly from the wind gusting and the 60 degree weather. It wasn’t until the last 2 miles of my 7 mile walk from In and Out that Dave, a Marlboro smoking white bearded fella pulled over and gave me a lift.
I thanked him, we fist bumped, then I went under the overpass. To my surprise Matt (guy I hiked with day 1) showed up not long after I did! We caught up sharing stories from the last few days over dinner. It was 8.5 miles to the next camp and it was too late to start that push. Seeing as I had almost walked 17 getting around town, I decided to stay . . . under an overpass (can’t get much more homeless than this!). I pitched my tent, grabbed my headphones, and prayed for at least a little sleep.
Trail Angel:
Dave – 60s, Marlboro smoking, truck driving, kind fella that hooked me up with a ride to my home under the overpass.
If you give a mouse a cookie, he’ll ask for a glass of milk . . .
The wind had somehow found its way back to me again! In the middle of the night it started up, and didn’t give up. I threw my headphones in and played some music to fall back to sleep. It was unusually cold on top of the wind factor, so I was less than anxious to get moving. Once I got up and packed up, I looked through the trees to see a cloud blanketing the valley below.
I hurried down the trail to see if I could grab a shot in a clearing before the cloud dissipated. I was ecstatic to find the the cloud not only stayed, but covered the skyline around altitude of 5000 feet end to end along the horizon. You could see the cloud flow as it moved over the terrain below, how cool! I snapped picture after picture as I walked down the ridgeline.
I kept hiking on, taking admiring glances at the view every chance I got, until I came across Carlie. I said hello and we chatted as we hiked down about her experience thus far and what she thought of America as she was fresh from the UK. We both agreed that the PCT had incredible scenery and she told me a few places in the UK I should visit. I decided to pull off for a break and she headed on.
I just sat in awe as I snacked at the views I had. I packed up and headed on, and soon found Carlie trailside for her own break after a few miles. I kept diving down into the desert and as I descended, the landscape began to subtly, then dramatically, change. The wind was still all about blowing, but the cool temps just made the desert more enjoyable. I soon met Dana, a woman in her 60s, boldy trekking solo, and easily holding her own.
We chatted as we dropped further into the desert, she told me about where she was from, and some of the great experiences, lifestyle really, that brought her to attempting the thru hike. We soon came across Jason, giving his feet a rest and we decided to join him. Soon after, Carlie came and joined as well. From here on we leapfrogged each other, taking breaks, trekking on, all the while admiring the boulders that began to dominate the desert landscape.
Mile 200!!
Finally after a good long day we found a dirt road with a spigot installed for hikers to grab water. We set up tents, stretched, ate together, then chatted on about where we were all from and the day we were about to put to bed. The views were spectacular, the landscape incredible, just a really solid good day.
Hiker Profile:
Carlie – 35, from Salisbury England. Before starting the hike she worked for a travel agency selling vacations to Africa. Her boyfriend of 16 years (an outdoorsman) became her advocate to take a break from her office job, get outside and push her limits on a long distance trail. After some research for good treks, she settled on the PCT to test herself. One night over dinner she mentioned she had horrible shoulder pain while working at her job, but since she started hiking, all that pain went away. A little escape from a desk can really make a difference, she said!
Dana – 60s, Grew up in the Bay area, went to undergraduate at UC Santa Barbara, where she studied biology. In her senior year she was in a library and saw a picture of Half Dome in Yosemite California, which not only drove her to pursue a graduate degree in geology, but also made her into a climber. She climbed near Santa Barbara, but would also frequent Tahquites, Joshua Tree, Yosemite, and other climbing Mecas around the States. Once she graduated she taught at University of Wisconsin for 30 years and after retired with her husband to Boulder CO. She has 2 daughters in their 20s, one of which is following her footsteps with biology. Loves climbing but hasn’t done it for years. Likes to hike, really likes to section hike, and really really likes to look back after 3 days of backpacking in admiration of how far you’ve come.
There is something about standing on top of a mountain that gives you real perspective on the world.
I woke just before sunup, and went through my morning routine. I was too low on water to make coffee, but the spring just 0.7 miles north would afford me all I needed. I trekked on in the morning light, fighting off the nipping from the mornings cool breeze.
Soon I found the spring in a nice open meadow and filled up. Without sparing any time I kept pushing on, taking in the landscape as I went. I didnt see anyone as I ascedned a large plateau and started up the long switchbacks to the peak. Was everyone still in bed? No summitters today? Abducted by Aliens?! I thought for sure I would see someone, and it wasnt until a good hour or so before I finally saw 2 day hikers.
I said hello, and pressed on my way, as soon as I got to the junction to the summit, I bumped into Oz, CrisAnn, and Jason! What a treat! I said hello, they stopped for a quick rest and I pressed on, up the trail, past the emergency hut, all the way to the peak where the 360 views were magnificent! A hazy smog hovered over San Bernadino city, but the mountains beyond were magnificent!
Soon the gang joined, and the longer we sat at the peak, the more people started showing up. I snacked, chatted, and soon headed down, back to the trail to head down the mountain. The day hikers were out in droves, I must have counted 4 dozen or more! Finally after bombing down the backside I met the gang again for a quick break before heading to mile 186 for a much needed water refill. There wouldnt be any water for the next 20 miles so loading up was key.
This guys seen better days!
The next section of trail was gorgeous, pines lined the trail that bumped and dipped on the Fuller Ridge down the huge mountain. You could see for miles in the clearing, all the way down to Palm Springs and beyond. I could see the wind farms, the airid desert, and the mountains to the north.
Granite boulders and pines lined the landscape. At one point I found a huge boulder with multiple splitter cracks going up the face. I threw a handjam in one, and it was perfect fit for my hand. I wished I had some climbing shoes to boulder around, but now wasnt the time. I marked it down, and hiked on!
Finally I pulled in to camp at the Fuller Ridge trailhead. Quite a few others joined and we all chatted as we made dinner and set up tents. Another great day on the trail!
I called Grumpy, a trail Angel whos number I grabbed from Claire before she decided to leave the PCT for a cross country road trip. He answered, his quirky voice said hed be there in 50 minutes and that he would be right on time. I had told Dom and Celia the night before they could catch a ride with me, and Grumpy’s charge to ride was nothing more than a good old fist bump. Very excentric fella, but funny to chat with headed to South Ridge trailhead.
I wanted to touch as much of the PCT as possible so I decided to go up South Ridge to tie in at Mile 178 just after the fire closure. After dropping us as the trailhead he took off. I chatted with Dom and Celia just for a few minutes before they pulled off, I pressed on. The ridge was aweomse and the views were fantastic!
As I rose from the valley, the cross country views just continued to get better! Granite rock faces began to rise and I could see some good areas for climbing potential. Taquiets large grey granite face stood proud from the surrounding pines and I knew there was some good climbing history there. I pressed on firther up the ridge bumping into a few day hikers. Super nice and polite, as everyone in the area seemed to be.
I crossed the plateau, through the pines and found my camp for the night at mile 181. It was only noon, and I wanted to do an alternate route to the peak, so I decided to day hike the 4.5 miles (then back) I would miss by hiking the alternate. What a beautiful route! To my surprise I ran into CrisAnn and Oz, they had pushed up from Idyllwild early in the morning and looked a little frazzled from the push. They delibereated on their plan, so I pressed on with mine.
The trail dipped and twisted around the moutnain with picturesk view after view. At one point it seemed as though I could see LA, if only there was a little less fog!
I pressed on and shortly after seeing a few other PCTers and gathering water, I found the turnoff to San Jacinto Peak, and the turnaround point for my day hike! Whew my feet actually were a little beat. I rested up and headed back to camp. Cooked dinner, stretched out, set up the sleeping bag and clawled inside. Another great day!
Hiker Profle:
Celia + Dom
Dom worked as a software developer, and Celia went to UW for computer science. They decided to take a break and come out for an adventure. When U furst met them in Mount Laguna, they were complaining about too much weight and having troubles on the uphills. Now, after cutting down on uneeded gear, they seem to have found heir rythm, walking together on the trail!
Day Hiker Profile
Pete: 50/60s, trail runner, retired Idyllwild. Cool guy, just out there loving life!
Just because it looks like a rabbit, hops like a rabbit, doesn’t always mean it is one.
My plan is to meet my gilfriend Izzie and buddies Nick and Sam in 7 days, just 60 trail miles away. Needless to say, I either needed to slow down or burn some zero mile days. So I found myself taking a rest in the small mountain town of Idyllwild. I wont bore you with the details of running around in my rain gear to do laundry, or raiding hiker boxes around town, or even using the piblic library to get some administrative work done. But what I will tell you, is that you should definitly make a trip there to check the place out. Maybe do some hiking, mountainbiking, or even rock climbing in the muntains nearby.
Awesome wood statue in town
Full statue, thing is huge
Sweet little theater
Cool mosaic for the town
Metal Statues
Awesome cabin town
Hiker Profile:
Vagabond- Phx AZ, 50s, served in the military as infantry. Was hit by a truck few years back, and was told he’d never walk again. After reconstructive surgery and a few pins and plates later, he worked his way back to his feet. He decided to show the doctors wrong by walking across America. He was in Idyllwild taking some rest days, attempting to recover from double pneumonia. Of course his chain smoking ways wasnt helping much. I though the guy was homeless at first, but after hearing his story, I undestood a little better where he was coming from. Kind eyes from a rough road.
Woke up late (late in hiker terms) 6:30 and sluggishly got moving. I only had 7 miles to push the back way to Idyllwild from Hurkey Campground and I was in no hurry to get goign.
Smokebeard was already up and gone, Darin, Oz, and ChrisAnn were hanging out and playing it slow as they were hoping to catch a hitch into town. I was trying to slow play the day so I packed up and got on trail a little after 8.
Strolling on, it was nice to have a bit of change. I had the trail all to myself and the trail went from nice and prime to rutted out and unclear. It reminded me of being back home, on backcountry trails.
I used the chance of being off the PCT to call home as I walked. Taking in the views as I hiked, 1 headphone in, without another soul in sight. Thats alright by me!
Finally after a few miles I entered the city limits of Idyllwild. What a sweet town! There were quant little cottages, and a small down home feel to the moutnain town. The small comunity continued on as I hiked down into the town center. I peered into side yards and admired the houses and cool decorations.
Finally I pulled into town where I was surprised to find such a high amount of traffic. The town was buzzing with locals, hikers, and tourists looking to get a taste of the vibe in the town. It was small, but not too small to get bored. Plenty of cool little shops, art galleries, cafes, resturants, post office, outfitters. If you have never been, take a little time and visit this remote, yet accessible sweet town!
I found my way to the state park where I would call home for the night, set up my tent, and rand some erronds in town. Although no true PCT miles, it was still a great day exploring a new place.
Hiker Profile:
CrisAnn + Oz
The 2 teachers met in Indonesia while teaching English to children. They became great friends and soon after decided to try to find out what they wanted to do with their lives, out on the PCT. CrisAnn (from Houston TX) sports a hefty DSLR camera, and Oz has bright red shiny gaiters which earned her the trailname she reps . . . . She also goes by bun bun . . . Because she has a niece and nefew who she babysits . . . and apparenty when she sees a bunny on the tail, she reverts to speaking like she would with them =)
I woke up without an alarmhi and started the morning routine. About half way through putting on my shirt I felt a bite on my leg. I instinctually slapped my leg, and thought nothing of it. Then bam, I got hit again. I looked up and the morning light started to shine though, I could see in the silloette 6 or 7 ants, CRAP!
I grabbed my headlamp and shined it, there were ants everywhere! Let the war begin! The ants must have got on my backpack in the night and when I went to grab my clothes out the were distributed inside my tent. I shook them off me, grabbed my stuff and undoubtedly looking like a mad man shook off my clothes and my sleeping bag. When the dust settled, I made it out alive andI felt really bad about the holocaust of ants I left behind =(
Finally after the tragic event, I packed up and got on the trail a few minutes after I saw another couple of hikers pass by. It was all uphill first thing with killer views all around! I pushed up and on, to the next campsite where I found Catfish and Rose hanging out and chillin out on a break. We chatted for a minute before pressing on up the ridge.
After a few miles, I took a break making a tasty chicken and pepperonni burrito. Ohhh it was tasty and I took in the views! Soon Lewis, Janet, and Darren showed up. We chatted for a moment before dropping off the topout and headed towards Forbes saddle.
Once at the saddle, we chatted for a bit and then looked at each other before makiing the decision t press up the ridge and touch every bit of trail we can or drop down early. Darren and I decided to press on where Lewis and Janet decided to drop early. The push was hearty, I headed up alone, heart pumping and sweat dripping up the good grind until finally I got the Spitler trail where the official PCT alternate trail started. Smokebeard, Oz, and CrisAnn were hanging out, Darren soon showed up.
Darren and Lewis
Finally we dropped off together, gathering water at 1.2 miles, and pressed the final 4.5 miles to the road. Man what a push, although it was downhill, it was a long long stretch. We went down the burn area and I could imagine how beautiful it was before the burn. Birds chirped and squirrels skampered. Finally we found ourselves hot, tired, and at the road, woundering if the last stretch was only 4.5?!
An awesome trail angel couple showered up and shuttled 6 of us to the Hurkey Creek campground where 5 of us found our home for the night. What a great day! We pitched tents, grabbed a coin shower, and cooked dinner for the night. What a great day!
Trail Angel’s for the win!!
Hiker Profile:
Janet: UCSantaCruise Feminist studies (law, policy, history) and psychology. Felt a little outside the group in her study but enjoyed learning how to have a strong opinion to not be so influenced by social media and other social pressures. Worked at a law firm in accounting, went back to school for accounting at UCBerkly. Now decided to quote and do the PCT while her body still can.
Catfish + Rose: kingman az, both completed the AT last now trying PCT. Rose is on the wildlife fire crew, seasonally, and catfish works as an xray tech.
I woke early as usual, just as twilight began. I started the daily routine of packing away my tent, pulling out breakfast, and getting everything I needed to survive into a little backpack.
Once the first rays of the sun hit me, I was already on trail pressing north. After just a few miles wandering through the manzanita I came upon Muir Woods. It was a small private property area that the owner set up a water cache, bathroom, mini shower, small camp area, and book exchange cabinet. It was so cool!! Lewis, Tori, Janette, Smokebeard, and Chunky Monkey were all there hanginging out before pressing on.
Chunky Monkey (from Austria) submitting a book for exchange
We chatted for a bit and the most anyone could talk about was Paradise Cafe, a 1 mile hitch into town from a rod just 8 miles away. Chunkey Monkey had set his last 3 days of hiking so he would get there just as they served lunch. All that talk was getting me hungry!
We pressed on through the mananita maze, twisting back and forth up and down unil we popped out just west of Lookout Moutnain and really got some stellar views! Mountains for miles and really cool rock formations everywhere.
We pressed the remaining miles to the road, and as soon as Lewis put his thumb out a car came sliding in to pick us up. 3 of of jumped in and Richard (and his dog Jano) was just passing through was nice enough to give us a ride to the cafe!
He screetched off, and in jus a few miles pulled up to the cafe, we were all in high spirits, chatting back and forth about what to get. I had Biscutes and Gravy with an ice cold IPA. After scarfong down breakfast like tiny Tim, we were back on the road and hitched back to the PCT where we left.
It was warm now, but we had miles to make. Smokebeard, Michal, Lewis, Janette, Kim, Ryan, and I (quite the gang) pressed on and up the trail as the scenery began to change. Pines came into view and huge ranite boulders lined the trail. After some miles we finally came to out water resupply cutoff. We hiked down the 0.3 miles to a cool spring emptying into a trough of water, what heven!
After restocking we pressed up the hills and the final miles through some gorgeous oak trees to a beautiful shadded campsite. We set up tents, made dinner and joked together before finally calling it a night. Just a few more miles to Idyllwild!
Hiker Profile:
Smokebeard – Ed, 46, vegetarian, from Rhode Island, with 5 acres in the sticks where him and his wife reside. They have 2 goats, 3 sheep, and a few chickens. With a Mechanical Engineering degree, he works on software from home and every once in a while saves up and takes off to the woods for a thru hike.
Smokebeard, holding what we have dubbed, the deathcone!
“Here comes the sun” . . . . De doo de dee – The Beetles
I woke before the sun rose and I could tell it had been much warmer than any other night thus far on the trail. I could actually get up and out of my tent without putting on all my layers including my hoody, while shivering myself to death. I went through the morning routine, and was soon feet on the trail headed north.
The trail meandered, there was thick brush on either side and it seemed to snake around, turn after turn. At mile 5.5, I plopped for a usual morning snack break and took a load off my feet. The terrain in this section was pretty similar, green bushes covered the hillside and the trail was brown and bouldery.
I pressed on and finally the scenery started to change, more cactus and less bushes. In the distance I could see a big white tent. I thought nothing of it at first but as I neared it, I woundered if it were just off the trail. I rounded the bend and there was a large tent and Niko the trail angel chilling inside.
Along with him was Mike from Ireland and his gilfriend from France. Niko, who looked a bit like a surfer with shoulder length dirty blond hair and red reflective Okleys on, invited me in and offered up some oranges, water, chips. Whatever I felt like grabbing. It was a cool setup, definitly a car camping palace for sure.
All of the sudden it was like the Truman show, pepole were coming out of the woodworks left and right! Tori, Smokebeard, Lewis, Kim, Ryan, and a few others just started rolling in. We all hung out and chatted for a bit, resting our feel and rehydrating.
I knew I couldnt stay all day and although the company was great, the trail wasnt going to hike itself. I pressed on and so did the sun! The terrain turned more hilly and some of the flats that we had turned to climbs. The sun began beating on me head, and it reminded me of trekking in AZ, I smiled and pressed on. After passing a water cistern that had some pretty bleak looking water in it. I was thought back and was pretty thankful we happened upon Niko.
Cistern with questionable water
Soon after the cistern I met up with Kim and Ryan again, just chilling under a tree. I chatted for a moment, and then we got around to recalling out top 5 favorite films, and all kinds of other silly trail banter. We pressed on together for a bit, then I pushed up a nice hill into the heat ahead. Finally after some good miles I found the water cache at Table Mountain Truck trail, just 19 gallons left. I filled 2 liters up. Soon Kim and Ryan rounded the corner pretty happy to find me standing on top of the water cashe singing the Lion King theme song where Simba is being held up on the rock! “Nants ingonyama bagithi baba / Sithi uhhmm ingonyama”
We all preesed the last mile together and grabbed a camp among some pretty sweet boulders. I had no climbing shoes, but felt a few out. There were doable lines on the highballs, but getting down would be another story all together. I played around a bit on the smaller ones before setting up my tent and settling in. Another great day on the trail!
Hiker Profile:
Michael – 23, from Seattle, just applied for med school after graduating in biology from Virginia where he played college football as a tight end. Figured while his girlfriend is in Nicaragua, and hes waiting for acceptance to med school, he would come try his hand at the PCT. Hes rockin a bear canister from the start . . . Everones been giving him shit for carrying the weight when he doesn’t need it for another 600 miles 🙂
Michael, stretching and being goofy!
Trail Angel Profile:
Niko – Trail Angel, looking for friends. He was part owner in a production company and dabbled in art. He used to surf, but like to go sailing now. After his mom bought him a Costco membership he started bringing some good trail magic to different areas because he loved camping and meeting new people.
I woke early, went through the usual routine. I wasnt in a large hurry this morning so I made coffee and sipped it as I broke down my tent. It was a pretty nice campsite, not far from a gugling creek, tucked back under a nice strong tree.
Found surprise messages in my TP 🙂 You rock Chris!
Pack strapped on, I let out on the trail. As soon as I did I ran into Ryan and Snake-eyes (Kim) who I had bumped into the night before brefly just before camp. They were all smiles and we chatted for a bit as the three of us gained the mananita covered hillsides, leaving the safety of the tree covered creek bed.
They were from North Carolina, and wanted to try their hand at the PCT. They stopped to pull off layers and I pressed on. It wasnt too long winding up the switchbacks before I ran into a trail Angel with her 2 dogs! Topaz was there handing out ornages, capree suns, bananas, and other snacks. Trail Angels go out of there way just to support the hiking community and leave goddies for them to grab.
There was lots of granite faces and boulders NE of Pine Mountain near Indian water flats, could there be climbing there?
I pressed on winding up the hill before spotting a granit boulder jetting up from the surrounding shrubs. I thought that would be a great spot to take a rest, so I walked over and scrambed up the fun ascent to the top! What a view!!
After a much needed rest I pressed on the next few miles until happening upon Mikes Place. Another trail Angel, he lets hikers camp in his yard, sometimes makes pizza and burritoes for them. I walked in and hung around in the hammock for a while chattin with Breeze, ki, Rryan, Offtrail, and Scott. Burrito in hand and a nice breeze, I couldnt ask for more!
Chilling at Mike’s Place
Knowing I needed to press on I filtered 4 liters, packed my bag and rolled out hiking another 2.5 miles before finding my camo for the night. It was still early so I scrambled up Comb Peak, right next to camp for fun. I retuned, finsh getting setup and broke out som Turkey Mac + Cheese, compliments of Nick Norwood. Spicy and deliecious! Another great day on the trail =)
This ain’t your ma’s Turkey Mac-n-Cheese
Hiker Profile:
Kim + Ryan
AT completion last year, from Charlotte NC, coming to check out the pct.
Trail Angel – Topaz: 49, originally from Washington, moved to Texas with her sister then came to cali for work. She lives in an 84 motorhome, enjoying her work, living just off Lake Henshaw, and she planned to hiking the full PCT next year.
All work an no play makes Jack a dull boy! – 1659 proverb
The Nero Day . . . Nearly Zero. Its good to have a rest. I used the hiker friendly Civic Center as a place to rest, chill, and get the engines back to neutral. You cant crank all day every day, so a good break once a week on the trail is great for your body to recover.
Yup, that’s a bunny, at the civic center.
I woke without an alarm set, there was no rush to breakfast, no tent to break down as myself and a few other PCTers crashed in the hiker hut. Tori, Claire, and I sluggishly made our way into town by 8am (late by hiker standards) and grabbed breakfast at the golf country club (the only grill in town) and had a really relaxed morning.
I grabbed my resupply box from the post office next door, where I met Ghost. He was a trail angel that gave rides to people from town to the civic center, and all over really.
I got back, washed my clothes in a provided bucket, took a bucket shower, reorganized my pack, and hung out with other hikers chatting. I got my pack ready, out with the old and in with the new. After some much needed administrative work, I gathered my things and started back on the trail at 4pm.
I wanted to take it easy but still make forward progress. I started getting antsy at the Civic Center. Walking again felt so nice, and I took the view in stride.
Moooooo
The open planes called my name and the walking was relatively relaxed. The temperature was perfect, and the open landscape was followed by a small forest with some of the most awesome trees. It was so nice.
When is the last time you got on a tire swing?!
The afternoon was so delightful. After a quick 5 miles, I grabbed water from the creek, set up camp, and ate dinner with a few other hikers camping nearby. Such a simple, chill, and fullfilling day.
“The hills are alive with the sound of music.” – Sound of Music
I woke in the middle of the night to the sound of wind beating on the side of my tent like it wanted in. The wind that plagued me 2 nights before had found me again! I tried to close my eyes and ignore it, but it just came knocking again. I then reached for my headphones, hit play on my favorite sleeping soundtrack and went right back to sleep, drowning out the noise.
I finally got moving around 5:30 after turning my music on again a time or two in the night. The sky was on fire and an ominous cloud moved in as the wind howled.
“Red sky at night, shepherd delight. Red sky in the morning, shepherds warning” – old Scottish saying
I didnt have time to hunker down, so i packed up and let out on the trail. It was cold, and the wind didnt help, I had my jacket on, hood up, buff covering my face and I was still shivering.
I trekked on in the shadow of the mountain and saw a few hikers, trailside, taking down their tents and getting ready to let out. I trekked these miles alone and they went pretty fast. Just before my first break I passed Claire from Scottland who was also all bundled up. After a nice break in a little nestled area I let out and pushed for the next 5. I caught up to Claire and we chatted again in passing as the rain begain to drizzleon us. I mentioned we were about to hit 100 miles, and we were both excited to hit the milestone (despite the rain). Afterward I breaked and we chatted about what she was doing so far from home and what brought me to the PCT.
3rd Gate Water Cache
We first bumped and I headed out, along chatting as we went. She mentioned her front Tori was ahead and we trekked on through the wind and rain. Sometimes its nice to have someone to chat with, it makes the hard miles a little easier to bear.
100 baby!
Finally the sun came out and we found ourselves bombing down through a forested area and soon a road materialized! We hopped a chained fence and continued trekking on through the fields until finally we found the open praries. How beautiful, I didnt expect such a dramatic change. Claire had pulled back by now and i pushed on. Trekking until mile 105 where I found a nice creek to rest by.
After a few both Claire and Tori pulled up, ready to trek the last 4.5. I packed up, pulling myself from the serence creekside rock lounge chair, and pressed on towards eagle rock! It was such a cool formation when we finally reached it. We took turn snapping pictures, and climbing around on it. What a cool find!
We pushed the last 3.5 together very quickly, chatting as we went. Tori was half sweedish and was here between her masters and PHD in biological medicin. She wanted to study infectious diseases and make a difference in healthcare system. Really cool stuff. Pasture after pasture we pressed on, until dumping into a small wooded area and finally popping out at Warner Springs Civic Center!
What a cool place, free camping, wifi, showers, laundry, to all PCT hikers! We checked in, grabbed a spot to sleep, and headed into town for some food. After dinner and chatting it up w other hikers we road walked back to the camp. Tired but satusfied we made it back. What a great way to end a great day!
Hiker Profile:
Claire + Tori:
Claire – 33 from Glascow Scottland, came to America to NY, then drove route 66 fell in love with classic cars and motorcycles, now got inspired and wanted to try this hike despite never been camping before.
Tori – 24, Half swedish, half American just finished her Masters in Sweden getting ready to start a PHD in infectious diseases at University of Pennsylvania. Lived in Sweden for 3 years before coming to the west to hopefully complete her PCT hike before starting school in August.
I listened to the water crash like waves on a beach with the rhythm of my steps.
I woke up from a real full nights rest. After pushing 22 miles plus an extra 2.2 for water I was pretty beat. I dont think I didnt moved an inch all night! I woke up, packed up and walked out to the trail to see Matt, the guy I trekked with on day 1! “Hey Mike, Whats up dude, I didnt think I was going to see you again!” He said. It was good to see him, Steve and Raj also rolled in with him and camped out.
Seemed like there was a pack of 7 of us total in the area and we were all headed for Scissor Crossings, our next water resupply (water cache). Water is life out here and being efficient but not too risky is key. I had 6 liters on me and didnt meee it all so offered the fellas some before I dumped it. They all divided it up, and I said fairwell and struck out on the trail.
These mountains reminded me of AZ. The cactus, the brown rock, ocotillo, buckhorn cholla, agave, it was all here except for the sugaros. As I trekked on I forgot to take the air out of my Sawyer Squeeze bladder, and I could hear the sloshing as I walked, it reminded me of the ocean. I trekked on until finding a nice spot at mile 5 to rest. Soon Bristlecone popped up to my surprise and we chatted for a minute about a recent Boeing tragedy . . . sad stuff. Done with my break I got up to leave just as Raj came rounded the corner. He was amed up and ready to trek. We pushed the next few miles to the crossing together chatting as we went. As soon as we got to the crossing booth Matt and Steve caught up. Just at that moment a hitch to Julian came availible and they all lept at the chance. I had other plans!
Raj, being silly
Scissor Crossing Water cache
I trekked the next miles alone, happy to do so as they were warm and the sun beaded down on me. I meandered in and out, seeing hikers and chatting as I went. Finally with my feet calling to me, I found a nice little pad to call home for the night. I had pushed 20, and my body knew it. Time to rest, another awesome day!
Hiker Profile:
Steven and Raj: UCSD graduates coming out to the PCT for a nice break after school. Steve was from NY and Raj Cali. Raj studies Human Biology and hoped to go back for pre-med and hopefully become a surgeon.
Bristlecone + Uber Bitch: A couple that had hiked the PCT twice together, once as a section, once as a thru hike. Now Uber Bitch (Emily) was helping to support Bristlecone do it as a thru hike at the ripe old age of 80. Dont let the age fool you, the guy can move!!
Paint the landscape. Do it with words do it with oil, but you’ll never capture it’s true beauty.
In the morning the wind had finally died down. I had woke several times in the night to the howling wind and shivering cold, I sintched the hood of my sleeping bag down.
When my alarm blasted, I started moving with a purpose. To my surprise my tent was covered in a thin sheet of ice, my almost empty bottles had ice in them. Wow! It must have got into the 20s.
I packed up, shivering, and finally found sunlight as I walked the road from the campground back to the trail. I trekked on, taking in the views as i did. Finally I caught a full glimpse of the desert below. It reminded me of AZ. Soon i happened upon Dillan, sitting trailside painting, in oils of all things. We chatted for a bit and I pressed on.
I would trek for 5 miles then have a rest, rummaging through my bag for snacks, pulling my shoes off. I looked like a hobo no doubt. Turn after turn the trail gave me spectacular views.
Trail Magic!!!
Towards the end of the long day I came into camp, at Rodriguez’s fire tank, no water at the spigot, darn. My alternative water source was 1.1 miles downhill, I trekked it pretty tired already. I schleped 5 liters of clean water back to camp. Made dinner, put up the tent.
An older fella (80 years) came up to chat. His name was bristlecone, like the oldest pines. Apparently because he is the oldest thing on the trail. He was doing the full push to my amazement! Man what a day, never know who you’ll meet!
Hiker Profile:
The Painter – Dillian, 24, from Orange County New York, went to florence Italy for art school. He was a scenic painter for Jimmy Fallon, saved up to paint the PCT. Will be completing 6 oil paintings per week. If he has to skip sections he will, it’s mostly about the painting for him!
Holy crap it was windy today! I woke several times in the night to a few gusts of wind. The camp I chose below the oak tree was nestled in a small valley that was somewhat shielded by the winds. I got up and started the morning regiment before standing ready to start the day with my pack strapped on my back.
it was chilly to start and I left my hoody on. I trekked on through the high deser shub lined trail headed up towards MounLaguna, my next resupply. As I trekked I happened upon Jenn who was grabbing water from Long Canyon Creek, and joining in I chatted for a few. She was from Florida, and was happyto be back west in the mountains again. After gathering my water, I said goodbye and headed on. Trekking up and through the hills until right at mile 39 where I found the first pine of the day!
I was getting closer to the little Mountain community as soon enterered through Burn Rancheria Campground. To my surprise The Three Amigoes (As I started to call them) were hanging out by a bathroom resting for a quick break. I chatted with them as well and found that they came from Spain and had only been in the country a few days. Attempting the full push withh only 1 tent between the three of them!
Once again I pressed on and made it to Laguna Lodge where I resupplied my food in the store there. A decent selection but a little pricey. After chatting with a few other hikers on the porch I went back the way I came, started back on the PCT and pressed on. The wind began to build . . .
It was like a middle school bully trying to grab your hat by the bill because he wanted to play keepaway with it. The wind gusted. As I neared the edge of a dropoff it pushed even harder. My head down I forded my way up the trail shivering through until finally taking an exit on Sunrise Highway. I walked up to Laguna Mountain Campground where pleasenetly I found a shower and a wall outlet in the bathroom to charge my phone =)
Now im hunkered down, the wind continuing to gust beating on my tent walls, hoping that the 21 deg forecast for tonight is just a joke. Well see!!
Hiker Profile:
Jenn,Florida, early 20s after grandparents passed and moved way, came to hike. Used to live in Tucson Az where she learned to backpack.
The three amigos: John, Sich, Nerea. From barsalona Spain, hiking together, sleeping in 1 tent, seem to be good pals, mid 20s
Mountain House was kind enough to send me one of their dinners about to come out for me to test and review. Ill be straight up, I have never been a fan of casserole anything (I didnt have a choice in the meal they sent). However, this meal wasnt that bad.
When I first opened it, it smelled like thankgiving. I peered in, chunks of celery, chicken, stuffing. I was excitited, and as I began stirring I licked the spoon and was ready for it to be done so I could devour it!
When it was ready, I dove in: The taste was good, but what I think threw me off was that the bread pieces had turned to a mush, I guess in a way making it a casserole. It was good, not my favorite. If the beading didnt run to mush I think i would have gone bonkers for it.
Overall: 6/10 – Would eat it again to mix things up, but would’nt be my first or even third pick. Give it a go, especially if you are a casserole lover!
I woke early, at Lake Morena to the sound of my alam as usual. I wasnt ready to get up to the 35 degree morning and I could feel damage in my legs from the day before, but I knew it was time to move.
Mark stoked a fire and we got breakfast rolling! Bacon, hashbrowns, corn beef hash. A final feast before I set out on my own for the rest of the journey.
I soon packed up, belly full, said my goodbyes and start back on the the trail touching off where I had left before. The first section was open, high desert and wounded through. Every one in a while I would dive into a green glassland area with large cottonwoods suckling at a nearby creek. But then, back out to the high desert.
Vista after vista I kept on, breaking when I was ready, eating as much as I could. I stopped off at Kitchen Creek Falls for a nice dip and a awesome water resupply. The water was so freaking nice!
With spirits lifted, I trekked on, pushing up and through the sage and manzabita. In the final stretch to camp my legs began to tire. I could tell my calves were pretty beat. I pushed myself through the final miles to find a nice camp below a large Oak tree. Tent erected, food cooked and devoured, nothing left but a little shut eye to recover the old body. An awesome day!
It was surprisingly windy and in the 60s in the desert. Somehow I found myself standing on the boarder of Mexico and the US looking north towards Canada, only 2650 miles to go! . . . . Who thought this was a good idea?! My buddy Mark and his brother Michael offered to send me off. It had been 4 weeks since I put my 2 weeks notice in at my job, and everything seemed so scream by getting prepared. It just felt like starting a day hike, didnt seem real. There were 20 Miles between me and my next camp. Time to roll on!
Mark joined, Michael shuttled, met Matt another thru hiker keeping a similar pace. He was skinny, 25, from Peoria Il and strapped a bolstering pack. The landscape was surprisingly green down here and the temps and views were pretty stellar the whole first section. We strolled through open high desert to lush green tunnels and seeing water twice. It was undoubtedly beautiful. There were 19, count them 19 other thru hikers we saw that day, I’d never seen so many people backpacking within a 20 mile stretch.
We pulled into camp as the sun set at Lake Morena. Michael and his girlfriend were waiting. We stoked a fire, threw a final meal on and before long I was in my tent nuzzled up with the first day behind me. Crazy . . . But a really great day!
Hiker Profile: Matt
Matt – 25, skinny guy from Peoria Il and strapped a bolstering pack. He guided at a ranch in Wyoming and was pretty experienced with the outdoors. Also worked at Lego before he decided to leave the long hours to the outdoors!
Day 2 (Part 2): P5 to Summit and out via Bright Angel
Traverse pitch from the horn, about to climb the face (have a change of pants ready!) Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
P5: From the horn belay I down climbed 15’ to a ledge. Slowly and meticulously I moved climber’s right and headed out into a 40’ airy traverse and finally clipped an old school rusty hanger. From here I had 2 options, get into a rated R chimney on the right and ascend the 20’ up until the first piece of pro, or take the rated R face directly above me and ascend to that same place. I chose the face. I explored the small nubbins with my hands, I chalked up as I planned my line. I started up on the small foot holds and was instantly searching for the next small rock nub that I could use for a hand or a foot. I slowly moved out left before finding a decent line that went back right towards slab paradise. I climbed slowly and very carefully, a fall here would certainly be a huge whipper on a questionable old school anchor. Rock nub after rock nub I moved up and right until finally the angle relaxed and the slab climbing began. Used the dished face until I finally straddled the R rated chute that dropped into nowhere. I slung a large column and finally clipped in, feeling a little more relaxed as I did. I mantled over the chimney chute to nowhere onto a large ledge. I walked around a large boulder and climbed up until I found the base of P6 and set a bomber anchor for Kari. “Climb On!” I yelled down. Following the lead with essentially 2 pieces of protection in 80’ is not fun, especially when you could swing out and seriously get hurt. So the pressure of following was not as relaxed as one may think. I couldn’t see Kari at all as I belayed. All I could is reel the rope in as he climbed. I listened for any noise in the wind and finally it came as he mantled over onto the ledge: “Woop!” letting me know he made it past the chimney. Soon he joined me w a big hi-5 and an exhausted smile. We were both tired, but still had 1 more pitch left.
Time lapse, bottom to top, fun and rated R! Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
P6: I regathered the gear and grabbed the #4 Kari had been hauling up the whole time. I held onto a 0.75 Camelot (was so happy I had this later) and doubles from #1’s to #4’s. I once again started up, pulling a small roof before finding the off width pitch everyone boasted about. The corner facing wall to my left was blank and featureless and the bulge to my right was smooth and round. Nothing but the crack in front of me and smearing feat were there to aid my ascent. I worked at it, inch by inch, using the back of the crack with hand jams and used my gear as efficient as I could as I climbed. Once or twice I reclaimed a piece from below that I could use again higher up after placing. This pitch was the toughest and most painful! I fought for it, inch by inch, grunting, groaning through the pain. The flared wide crack finally started thinning up and I was so glad to have my 0.75 as it was perfect for the cracks exit. I placed my piece, took a rest, and finally reaching high and left for a really nice rail on the left wall. I knew I had it from there, even though the climbing wasn’t done. I kept fighting, up and on until Zoro finally seemed to give up a little. The pitch angle relaxed, my heart was thumping and the adrenaline was pumping through my veins. I kept fighting, and finally after 6 pitches of grueling technical climbing I topped out and slung a juniper pine at the top of the chossey exit. I set the belay and yelled down to Kari “Climb on!” Soon, after grunting and groaning, pulling hard for it, I saw Kari’s orange and red helmet come into view. I was overwhelmed with what we just did. I slapped his helmet, and the two of us, tired and ready to finish stood on the plateau just below the summit, knowing the technical climbing was done.
Dont mind the butt shot! Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
Looking up P6, the offwidth. Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
Kari's reaction to P6! This is my favorite picture of the trek, pretty much says it all! Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
The Summit Plateau: We stood, beaten and bruised, looking towards the setting sun and the huge summit block that stood in front of us. We dropped our gear and brought just a pack as we walked in our climbing shoes towards the summit. The earth here was fresh and virtually untouched, we did surprisingly find a few footprints. As we neared the summit, the block just continued to grow and we started to wonder if we should have brought gear. We skirted south west of the block poking for weak spots until finally we found a route that went up. We scrambled the C4 route up a chimney crack up the sharp rock until finally we popped out into a large open plateau. The top was huge! We walked towards the south end and found a large cairn with a summit registry hidden below. The views were incredible, we could see the whole of the south rim and a lot of the Colorado River from here. We peered back to the approach we ascended, throughout the day and stood in pure amazement of the Grand Canyon’s beauty.
Summit block!
The closer we come the larger it grows!
Picking out way around (headed back after summit)
Skirting the summit block
Finding the summit block's weakness and heading for the top!
Last obstacle baby!
Kari loving every minute!
SUMMIT!!!!!
1st Icelander on ZORO!
We wrote our names in the book, so stoked to finally be standing on top after dreaming of this moment for so long. Kari claimed first Icelandic ascent, and it was nice to thinking that the only way to the top was real climbing. The sights, the air, the feeling, the thrill, made every step worth it. We turned knowing our time was limited as the sun threatened to leave us, and walked towards the north end to find the rappel route down to the base where we started.
Rap Route: The chains were at the top out just to the climber’s right of screaming sky crack, a 5.11 trad route to the climbers left of the NE Arete.
Rap1!
R1: The first rap was a nice 100’ long free hanging which ended in another set of nice shiny bolts. We stopped at each station, replacing the webbing for the rap rings so fresh stuff could be used by the next climbers.
Coming down Rap1, looking left to Screaming Sky Crack 5.11!
R2: A 60’ rap towards climbers left lead to a ledge with a nice tree and a couple more bolts, ready for fresh webbing on the rap ring awaited.
Setting up Rap 2! Kari works in the golden light
R3: A pretty straight forward 100’ rap down the face led to a large ledge. We worked to climbers left dropping another 10’ to another set of shiny bolts. R4: By this point we were pretty quick about replacing webbing, setting up and rapping down, I would keep my hand on the rope until I felt Kari’s tension release, then I’d start setting up. This time was no different I stood there waiting, hand on the rope, when all the sudden I felt a jerk of the rope and instantaneous slack on the rope. I though What the hell just happened, and I called down to Kari with no answer! There was only 1 way to find out and I set up the rap and had an ascender prussic ready in case I had to re-ascend the rope. I began rapping down, and finally about 60’ down the face Kari’s helmet came into view. “Kari!” I yelled. He answered back saying everything was fine and just come down slowly. Once I reached him I realized I was at the end of the 70m rope, but I was still dangling about 8’ above the ledge. I held onto the rock in front of my face, untied 1 knot out of the end of the rope, and repelled off the end of 1 side of the rope, and safely landed on the ledge. “Whewww!” I exclaimed, happy to be on the ground. Do not try this at home! I did see a set of bolts half way down the rap route that we could have used, but this turned out okay. R5: We found ourselves at the bolts at the top of P1 and relieved there was just a short 50’ rap left as the sun gave off its final rays of light for the day.
Goodnight fella!
We were finally back on the ground, realizing we were on rock for a good 8 hours, between the climb, the summit block scramble, and rappelling with replacing all the webbing as we went. Tired, beaten, but happy to have accomplished out goal, we headed back towards camp the way we came. We hiked through the night reversing every obstacle we ascended, rapping where it seemed logical until reaching camp. We were both beat as we packed up camp and headed back down the red wall, how do people do this in under 24 hours?!
Zoro, still staring us down in the moonlight!
Kari, heading down the slot! Towards the cliff bands!
We descended Sumner Wash and finally found feet back on Clear Creek trail. With our slightly lighter packs we headed back towards Phantom Ranch totally beat. We reached the ranch overlook at about 1am and both looked at each other knowing there was so much more trail before we exited via Bright Angel . . . “let’s have a quick nap”, I said. We pulled out a tarp and our sleeping bags and laid in a pullout of the trail and crashed until 5am. A ringtail visited us in the night attempting to “borrow” a few snacks, probing our bags for weakness. I heard some stirring, woke up and scared the little fella off. By the next morning our packs were covered with his prints.
Ringtail prints =)
We woke, and packed our bags once again and were soon descending into Phantom Ranch. We took a quick pause to re-up on our almost depleted water supply. We snacked up, watered up, and chatted with other trekkers at the ranch with big smiles on our faces. It was only about 9 more miles out via Bright Angel trail. We walked those miles feeling pretty light despite our load. We had somehow accomplished the goal we set out to achieve. The entire day before seemed like a dream as we ascended to the south rim. We glanced back when we could, thinking about the day before and how rare of a chance we had to stand among the few who have summited. What a great feeling, another awesome trek in the Grandest of Canyons!
Almost to Phantom!
Phantom Ranch
Looking back towards Zoro, how gorgeous!
Heading out Bright Angel
The corkscrew, beloved in my mind!
Looking back at what we did
Almost out, how gorgeous his place is!
Heading back towards Phantom Ranch
Almost back to the Colorado!
Heading up Bright Angel
Time to push out the last leg!
Gotta love the green goodness here! Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
Gorgeous light!
Almost to Indian Creek! Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
Just below Indian Creek
Trekkin on!
The final bridge before the exit!
HIKE/CLIMB INFORMATION:
Approach: South Kaiab to Clear Creek to Sumner Wash to Zoroaster Temple via NE Arete, return via Bright Angel: https://hikearizona.com/gps=39407
The wind screamed by our tent most of the night, waking us every 15 minutes it seemed. Finally, after midnight, I remember it dying down and getting some solid sleep. The alarm blasted, Bzzzz Bzzz Bzz, man was it time to get up already?! We woke, staying still for a moment checking the time. Sure enough, it was time to start our haul to the base of Zoroaster and hopefully attempt our bid on the summit.
Good morning!
We ate breakfast, packed up camp, and before we knew it, Kari and I were taking our first steps towards the monstrous beast that loomed over our camp just as day began to break. Feet in red dirt we ascended Zoroaster’s arm, chimneying up a small obstacle and soon the next cliff bands stared us in the face. We picked our way through, shimmying up some low class 5 (C5) chimneys, handing packs as we ascended. We moved as quickly and safely as we could. A slip or mistake here would not only cost an injury, but also the goal, and not to mention the excruciatingly long rescue effort. Cliff band after cliff band we somehow found our way through. We pushed further up the arm, and finally after a long slot ascent and a large boulder shuffle, we skirted to the north and headed towards the saddle of Zoroaster and Brahma temples.
The overscast morning seemed to start slowly
Kari, inspecting a rap station above the cliff bands we ascended ropeless
Morning light finally beaming through
Morning light finally beaming through
Looking back as we skirted east
The Brahma/Zoro saddle!
Cliff Band obstacles
Looking down one of the chimneys as Kari gets ready to ascend
Oh hello there!
Kari, taking on the long slot towards the top of the cliff bands
Boulder stemming fun
Skirting north east towards the saddle
The footpath grew very narrow, vertical rockface to the right, and sloped dirt leading to a 400 foot drop to the left . . . better keep our heads on in this section! We carefully picked our way through following the footpath, cairn after cairn guided our way. Finally we found the weak spot in the headwall and started to ascend. The first obstacle was a chill class 3 scramble up to a ledge where we found a fixed rope for the next obstacle. We bat-manned up and sere soon past the next C4/C5 section. We followed the cairns as we went, across another rope less climb, up a slab, and finally to the spiciest of the obstacles. It was a good 20’ C5 climb with a fixed rope to guide us up! “How nice of someone!” I thought as we exited the obstacle.
Kari squeezes on the small footpath between the rock face and the dropoff
Obstacle 1
Just below Obstacle 3
Obstacle 3 - Spicy fun!
We kept pushing our way up the steep faint trail, following cairns until finally we were face to face with the sheer walls of Zoroaster. None of the faces we could see looked like our climb, so we continued to skirt east across the north face of Zoro. Walking on and on, when all of the sudden we turned right at the arête and stared at the 5.9+ NE Arete route. It was time to go to work! We racked up and Kari put me on belay as I stepped towards the start of the climb.
Skirting east along the north face of Zoroaster towards the Arete
Pitch 1 (P1): My hands were sweaty as I made my first step towards the start. I plunged them into my chalk bag shaking off the jitters and stared at a large triangle roof a good 25’ up a face. I started up the sandy sandstone face reaching the clearly clean roof. I threw a #3 Camelot on the crack and inspected the face wondering how I would pull the first obstacle. I reached high, and using a nice foothold on the left face I pulled myself over the roof and was soon clipping chains just 50’ off the ground.
Taking on P1, trying to shake out the jitters! Thanks for the pic: Kari Hreinsson
P2: The crack went up and climbers right from here and I followed. There were some fun moves, I stepped up, finding the next hold, repositioning and finding good gear placement. The long pitch meandered up right through the crack around some small trees. Move after move I ascended, sometimes being pushing onto some short slab climbs until finally I reached a tree covered in slings signifying the end of P2. Whew, made it! I threw Kari on belay and he soon followed. Trying to move quickly we spared no time exchanging gear and I set off again!
Top of P2 - Tree belay (don't mind the guy thigh). Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
Top of P2 Tree belay! Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
P3: The infamous “Crux Pitch”. I move up and climbers right towards a fresh rock scar where a pinnacle used to hold on, creating a chimney for the next pitch (it fell in 2004). There were now 2 options for this pitch: ascend a section of runout slab face climbing with no protection, or a vertical sandstone slopper hold climb. I chose the sandstone, heading almost vertical and slightly climbers left from the tree below. I placed a Camelot #3 deep in a hole/crack with soft sandstone edges and prayed it would hold. I moved up and left, finding a good left foot, dropped knee, intermediate sloper with my left hand, pinching a sandy sandstone shelf with my right hand . . . needless to say it was awkward . . . all of the sudden I was out of position. “Falling!” I yelled down to Kari as I blew off the face! Gravity took over and I fell for a good 20’ whipper before my #3 dug in and held me. Whew!!!! I thought to myself and let out a loud happy yelp “Wooooooo!” I grabbed my composure . . . this climb could end here. I stood back up and headed back for the same move. “Falling!!!” Boop, once again I was thrown from the face, the # 3 held, my hero!!!! I dusted myself off and looked upwards woundering if this was the end for us. I got back into the same position a 3rd time, only this attempt I threw my right hand up, blind, above the huge sloped rock in my face. To my surprise a bomber hourglass shaped hold!! I grabbed in and rejoiced as I made my next move to climbers left and safety of the next anchor. Sweat dripped from my body and I put Kari on belay.
Looking down the P3 crux (you can see the hour glass bomber hold here at the right hand). I shamelessly “borrowed” this picture from B Kiessel (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcGlIpfjoaI)
P4: I stood on a huge ledge and soon Kari joined me after enjoying the same interesting crux as I. We had no time to waste, so I geared up and headed to a crack that was just above the fresh rockscar that moved climber’s right. I continued up this chimney running it out a bit, placing gear only where I had a nice stance. Even with all the runout, I started running low on gear! I found a small tree and looked up past the next chimney and there was still about 30’ above to the infamous horn belay. I decided to just build an anchor here and belay Kari up, breaking this pitch into 2. After some “fun” chimney Kari appeared at the belay, looking a bit tired and ready to be on the horn. I collected the gear he cleaned and headed up the final section of chimney towards the horn. I popped out of the chimney only an arête that ended into a loose slab section. The next place I could throw gear in was a good 20’ away, so I carefully climbed. Smearing my feet and slowly controlling my weight. I worked my way up until I found myself grabbing a bomber hold!! I quickly pulled myself up onto the infamous horn belay with a nice set of anchors. I set the belay, and Kari began to climb, cleaning gear as he went. As he popped out onto the loose slab section, he had the same impression as me: “What is this crap?!” Kari exclaimed!
Which way do we go?? Oh yea, up! Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
Looking up the first half of P4! Fun fun. Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
Looking up Second half of P4 (after the tree break), interesting chimney style climbing! Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
Kari joined me, as I sat straddling the horn, chilly, fully zipped up in my hoody. We had just 2 pitches left before the technical climbing was over. Although nervous, I was excited to take them on. The traverse was up next and after that the off width pitch. The traverse boasted almost no choices for protection and the offwidth pitch was some hard technical climbing. Kari but me on belay again . . . “Climb on!” he said. It wasn’t over yet!
Sitting on the Horn Belay top of P4, you can see the down climb and the sheer exposure! Photo Credit: Kari Hreinsson
HIKE/CLIMB INFORMATION:
Approach: South Kaiab to Clear Creek to Sumner Wash to Zoroaster Temple via NE Arete, return via Bright Angel: https://hikearizona.com/gps=39407
Food: 1 Cliff Builder bar, 1 protein bar, 1 Nature Valley granola bar, bag of salt & vinegar, beef jerky, bag of pizza Pringles, gummy worms, orange, chicken and mashed potato MountainHouse
Time: (Day 2) 20 hours
Distance: (Day 2) 7 miles
Accumulated Gain: (Day 2) 1,700 feet
Climbing Rating: 5.9+ Trad
Number of Pitches: 6
GEAR:
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
I stood there, palms sweaty, weighed down by the gear on my climbing harness, looking up at the start of a climb that took us 15 miles to approach, countless hours of training, and almost 2 years of dreaming to bring me face to face with the start of the route. My hoody was zipped up, and I could feel the chilled wind on my legs whipping by on the North face of Zoroaster Temple, deep in the belly of the Grand Canyon. I had plunged my hand into my chalk bag and took my first step towards a climb of a lifetime, and it all became real when Kari called out “Climb On!”
North East Arete: 6 pitches – 5.9+ Trad (click to enlarge)
I started this climbing thing after setting my eyes on the Grand Canyon summit Zoroaster Temple. Its a magnificent formation that stands tall, guarding the Colorado River, just northeast of Phantom Ranch. All I knew at the time was that it was a technical climb. As my climbing experience increased, I found out that summiting came at the price of 6 pitches of 5.9+ trad climb; that was nothing to shake a stick at. In the Grand Canyon it’s the king of the back country rock climbs, in that to get to the top the easiest route up (NE Arete) boasts this stiff ante. After talking about this thing at nauseam to my friends for almost 2 years, finally my climbing partner Kari was available, my training seemed right, and the weather window opened for a summit attempt. This is my account of our summit attempt:
Day 1:
Kari and I pulled ourselves from the van, groggy and disoriented from the long drive the night before, the short sleep, and the frantic packing, before the bus came hissing to a stop just in front of the Bright Angel Lodge. We scrambled on board, and we were off! After the short bus ride to the trailhead we were finally feet on trail looking down South Kaibab trail and across the canyon to the base of the beast.
Ohh Ahh Point!
The Grandest of Canyons!
Even from Ohh Ahh point Zoroaster stood proud and bold just tempting anyone to attempt a summit bid. We kept on trekking down towards the bottom of the canyon chatting with people and taking in the views as we went. Before we knew it, 8 miles later and 4500 ft of elevation drop, we found ourselves at the doorstop of Phantom Ranch. We threw our heavy packs onto the picnic tables and headed inside to grab some postcards to send home. After a quick rest we loaded up on the 5 liters of water that would last us through the night and the entire next day.
Kari, leading the charge, O'Nielle Butte in view, Zoro looming
What a beautiful sight, one of my favorite view of the GC!
Onward!
Onielle, we topped this one in prep for Zoro just a month prior
Zoro ever watching
Zoro ever watching
Down into the inner gorge
Well hello there old friend!
Just above the Colorado on South Kaibab, gorgeous views
Our packs were heavier than ever, weighing in at a bolstering 53lbs each. The rope, trad rack, camping gear, food, clothes, and finally water was a tough but necessary in order to pull off our goal. We headed up the trail wincing at the weight as it cut into our shoulders. About ½ mile north of Phantom Ranch the Clear Creek trail took off right, east towards Sumner Wash where the “real adventure” began!
53 lbs? Think I need a diet!
We pushed up and on as the two grueling miles gained 1500 feet towards the wash, Kari seemed un-phased by the weight. For some reason that day, it weighed heavy on me. I am not sure if I had met a weight limit that stunted my push, or if I hadn’t trained my legs enough, but I was definitely feeling it as we pressed on. Finally we reached Sumner Wash and diverged from Clear Creek trail. We headed north for the Redwall Notch which gave us access to the Lower Supai Layer and Zoroaster’s arm.
The inner gorge from Clear Creek trail
Popping out to see the Colorado after some nice gain on Clear Creek trail
Turn the corner to finally see Zoro, standing proud as always!
The 2 cairns that mark the start of sparse camping allowance
The notch up the red wall awaiting our arrival
Ascending towards the red wall notch
We grunted on finally reaching the base of the notch and threw packs down for a quick break. We each dropped a liter of water and stashed a little food in a tree to save weight. Soon we were on our feet again, racing against the sun, and heading out climbers right to a nice exposed class 4 climb that would circumvent a 5.7 technical climb (aint nobody got time for that!). We ascended carefully on the sharp rock, looking for the path of least resistance. Soon standing high over a sketchy down climb we looked at our options. There wasn’t much time for debate, so we de-packed and I down climbed as Kari got the packs ready to be handed down by rope.
Grinding on! (photo credit Kari Hreinsson)
Looking up the notch
Bypassing the 5.7 route w some fun class 4 action
Upward!
Climb on, full 50 lb pack on of course
Nice step over the last sketch C4 move
Up the class 3
I can see the notch exit from here!!
Soon after some questionable exposure we were both safe past the obstacle. We looked up the notch to see our next class 4 obstacle to navigate past. Sweaty palms, and labored backs, we carefully ascended a crack, going behind a short stubby bush, and finally taking an airy step across a death defying drop to safety. Whew! We both made it and were definite ready for safe ground. We continued up the class 3 notch towards the top out which was surprisingly tame.
Camp baby!
The sun set as we finished setting up and cooking food, an early bedtime was most definitely warranted!
Finally we popped out and eyeballed a juniper tree with a large flat spot for a nice camp spot. We had made it safely to camp!!! I dropped my pack that had been cutting into my shoulders, with a gasp of relief! We began to set up the tent and looked south to enjoy the beautiful sunset over the Grand Canyon. Zoroaster stared down at us, and we stared back knowing the next day would hold some of the hardest trad climbing (well my limit at least) with no true promise of a summit in sight. Our work was cut out for us and we tucked into bed, trying to get as much rest as possible.
Goodnight old friend
HIKE/CLIMB INFORMATION:
Approach: South Kaiab to Clear Creek to Sumner Wash to Zoroaster Temple via NE Arete, return via Bright Angel: https://hikearizona.com/gps=39407
Food: 1 Cliff Builder bar, 1 protein bar, 1 Nature Valley granola bar, bag of salt & vinegar, beef jerky, bag of pizza Pringles, gummy worms, orange, chicken and mashed potato MountainHouse
Time: (Day 1) 10 hours
Distance: (Day 1) 12 miles
Accumulated Gain: (Day 1) 3,000 feet
Climbing Rating: 5.9+ Trad
Number of Pitches: 6
GEAR:
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
I smiles as we (Kari, Mahdi, Ethan, Tyler, and I) took the first steps down South Kaibab trail, headed into the Grand Canyon. I’m always get a little giddy going here, no matter how many times I drop in, I always feel like a kid on Christmas morning! Our target for the day was to reach O’Neill Butte, just beyond Cedar Point 2.5 miles down South Kaibab trail and 1600 feet below the rim. Everyone was all smiles, and excited as ever for the day ahead!
View of O’Niell from Ohh Ahh Point!
O’niell Butte, finally coming into view!
Packs heavy with climbing gear and provisions for the day, we trekked in taking in the sights of the vast canyon. We paused briefly at Ohh Ahh point for some pics and pointed out the buttes and temples across the canyon. What a nice day, perfect weather, great views, great company! Finally the butte came into sight. I never thought about it much before, until I started researching and found there was a 5.8 trad route on the east side that could put us ontop! It looked a bit more beastly than I remembered as we neared the base of the large formation.
There it is!
Little closer now
A little bit closer now!
ooOoooo just a little bit closer now
Come on closer now
Just a little bit closer now
OOOOOoooOOooo closer now!
A little bit closer now!
Just a little bit closer now!
Mmmmmmm closer now
Yesssss just closer now!
And here we are, just follow that beautiful line to the top!
The off trailed a bit and soon found ourselves at the base of the story book crack climb and began to gear up. We brought two 60 meter ropes and a double rack, just to account for the unknown above. There wasn’t much information on the ascent in research we did prepping for the ascent. I racked up and started to tape my hands (taping your hands helps cut down on abrasions while crack climbing), and Kari began to flake (lay out) the rope and set up to belay me. I looked up at the first 10 foot climb to a ledge which would mark the real start of the climb, it was time to get moving!
Welp, looks like we found the route!
I reached up high and placed a small cam in a nice crack to get the mojo going, and I pulled a large horn to take the first ledge. As soon as I pulled up on the horn and could get eyes on the back of it, I noticed a large crack at the base of the horn. I backed off immediately! Standing back on the ground I banged on the sides of the rock again, making sure it was sold (well kind of). I once again pulled the horn and was soon standing at the base of the real climb, looking up at a 120’ crack system leading to the summit plateau just below the summit block. It was time to go to work and I jammed my fingers into the crack.
Not sure that skirt is high school legal Mr! (Photo Credit: Tyler Eglen)
Move after move, I worked my way up the crack system. I was stitching up the line pretty good, and I could feel the weight of the double rack on my belt pulling me down. It seemed that the climb consisted of a big move across small face holds/feet with the crack to assist before you reached another good ledge and a rest. I placed a nut, and grabbing the carabiner open to release the single nut but somehow I dropped 3 other nuts!!!! They went plummeting down to the starting ledge below. I scoffed at the silly mistake, and had to choice but to keep on moving.
Getting after it, leading on! Just about to reach the bulge the crux of the route! (Photo Credit: Tyler Eglen)
Finally after 60’ of good crack/face climbing (without knowing it) I found the crux of the climb, a bulge offwidth section that wanted a #4 Camelot. I looked gown and all I had was small stuff up #0.1 to a #3 on me (as research failed me). I reached far far back into the crack and placed my #3 (as it was the only place it would hold), and clipped it in. The move (“The whale move” as it jokingly became known) was to stick a right fist far far back into the crack just where the offwidth became a hand jam, get a high left foot on a small chip at shoulder height on climbers left, and flop like a freaking whale to get up and over the bulge! I let out a loud laboring yell as I grabbed my left foot, helping it high (almost shoulder height) onto the small chip and pulling with my right hand to flop myself beyond the obstacle. It was like the rocks sole job was to throw me off, and it was everything I had to hold onto it . . . this was “fun” on lead!
Running out of gear, just past the crux, about to set up an anchor and break the climb into 2 pitches. (Photo Credit: Tyler Eglen)
Finally I was up and through, and after a few other awkward moves I reached the base of a 15 foot crack with beautiful hand jams. I looked down and only had one more #3, there was no way I could protect the next section. The only choice I had was to build an anchor and break the long 120 pitch up into two. I was soon ready and yelled down to Kari “on belay, climb on!” He started climbing up, I couldn’t see where he was until finally I heard him grunting through the “whale move”. I chuckled to myself knowing he was having “fun”. He soon reached the anchors, gasping for air and clipping in. “Fun Right?!” I asked with a big smile!
View from the top of pitch 1 (P1). Kari and I getting ready to swap over, take on P2!
There was no time to loose and we swapped over and I began leading the next section. There was a 15 foot nice hand crack to an awkward transition that spit you onto a ledge that circled climbers left (south) to the actual east face. There was still a good 30’ to climb. I kept after it, climbing on placing piece after piece and after a double gaston move at the end, I topped out and let out a loud “Woop!!!!” I set up an anchor on a large sandstone boulder towards the top and let Kari know I was safe. We then began a centipede climbing/belay style (one person belay from the top of pitch 1 (P1), then when they get there, the top belayer, belay the next climber to the top of P2) to get each climber up to the summit plateau. Tyler popped over the edge all smiles, and soon Ethan did too. Mahdi chose to take it easy and chill at the base for a nice afternoon nap.
The end of the tech climbing, looking towards the summit block!
Followers come one come all!
Tyler, cursing up the pitches
Making it look easy!
Top out!
Smiles is what we came for =)
Ethan, takin in the view and enjoying the climb!
Summit baby!
Gorgeous views all around!
Kari, excited to be on the topout!
Kari, enjoying the perch on which I belayed him up on hahaha
Tyler and Ethan on the traverse along the summit block
Kari, taking in the views!
Almost to the top!
Once the four of us were up, we headed to the north side of the plateau to reach the summit for the easy Class 3 scramble! Not too long after we were all simultaneously touching the highest rock on O’Neill Butte! With our summit complete we headed back down with hast and found a large tree to rap off of. Tying the two 60m ropes together we rappelled one at a time, quickly down almost the full length once again reaching the base of the formation. Mahdi was waiting with smiles and that fresh nap look! We threw on our packs and headed back up the South Kaibab trail for a nice sunset hike to the rim. What a gorgeous day, I couldn’t believe it, but we just finished all of our first technical summit ascent within the Grandest of Canyons!
Rap battle!
Tyle chill out after the descent, taking in the views!
South Kaibab, our route out!
Looking back to good ol Oniell
Time to get moving!
Oh GC, how much you rock!
Maudi rockin out
Puttin down a good pace!
Almost there!
Well hello guys! No fear here in the GC
Kari rapping down the 120' face
Kari, looking a little tired, but ready to finish the push out of the canyon!
Food: 2 Cliff bar, 1 Nature Valley Granola bars, bag of salt and vinegar, gummy worms
Time: 6 hours (we had 4 climbers)
Distance: 5 mile RT
Accumulated Gain: 120 feet
Climbing Rating: 5.8 Trad
Number of Pitches: 2
GEAR:
Don Camelback backpack (3 liter bladder)
Black Diamond Helmet
Petzl Corax Climbing Harness
2 Black Diamond screw carabiner
4 Phantom DMM screw carabiner
6mm Accessory Chord – Anchor
Black Diamond Camelot X4+C4 Cams – Double Rack – (2x), 0.1, 0.2, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3, 4 [in hein sight I would have ditched smaller stuff (0.4 and below) as most of the cams were 0.75 – 4]
We woke up, and started the morning ritual as usual: coffee, breakfast, packing up. We had a gorgeous view of both Eagle Cap and Moccasin Lake from our camp, and really had a nice time taking it all in as we got ready. Soon after filtering water and packing up, we headed towards the crosscut that would take us to the base of Eagle Cap. We pulled off our backpacks, stashed them, and I grabbed my day pack and filled it with supplies for the quick 4.2 mile round trip haul to the peak.
Which way? Oh yeah, up!
We started up from the base and all of a sudden the light changed. It was strange, the temperature dropped, and the normally bright day turned to a strange dimmed white light. Almost as if you were looking at artificial white light, it made all the colors of the surroundings mute. I looked at the time and it was right at 10:20. Both Izzie and I had read that the eclipse wasn’t going to start until 1pm, and because we hadn’t grabbed Eclipse glasses, there was almost no way to confirm. At first we thought maybe it would take an hour for the moon to cross.
Looking down on our ascent of Eagle
Light got a little weird and the temps dropped 10 deg!
We trekked on up the mountain hoping that this was only the start of the eclipse. We hurried on, headed up switchback after switchback, really keeping up a good pace. We ran into a group of people heading down and we wondered if they were just heading down and didn’t care much about the eclipse. We headed on, up and up, until we ran into another group, then a third. I feared we missed it and we stopped to chat with one of the hikers. “Oh you guys just missed it, it was at 10:20 this morning!” They were kind enough to hand us their Eclipse glasses and we looked up to see the moon covering about 70% of the sun. Little did we know, the surge of light that we saw was the closest to totality that we would see. We later realized that the eclipse had been posted in Eastern Time since NASA is based out of Houston Texas, and so our timings were three hours behind! Ooops!
Sick views on the ascent (Click to enlarge)
Snow!!!!!
What a great view!
Izzie, taking in the valley views 🙂
There is the peak!!!
Gorgeous views abound!
Looking back to the Lostine Valley
Using the 'Merica Glasses to check out the eclipse
It was alright though, we still experienced it in our own way. And besides, we were here in the middle of the beautiful Wallowas enjoying everything it had to offer. We trekked on towards the peak. Group after group passed us heading down before we finally reached the peak at 9572 feet. The snow-capped peaks in the distance and the glacier lakes at their feet were so awesome to see! We could see Razzberry Mountain from Eagle Cap, the Matterhorn in the distance, and all the way down the valley we had trekked in on, as well as the valley we planned to leave on.
Summit views! (Click to Enlarge)
More views from the top! (Click to Enlarge)
We took it all in, chilled for a snack, and chatted with other hikers before watching the last of the moon disappear from the path of the sun. We gathered our things once again and headed down to grab our packs. Reaching the base of Eagle, we strapped our backpacks back on and debated on which trail to lead out on.
Lil glassading action on the way down!
East Fork Lostine Trail 1662 (the trail we came in on) would save us some gain and a few miles, but we would see a whole different part of the valley by going over a pass to Minam Lake Trail 1670. I made the call and we started huffing up the crosscut trail to the pass that would drop us next to Minam Lake. I love me some gain! A few hikers we passed going up the pass saw us coming down from Eagle Cap just before and stopped us to make sure we knew we were silly for deciding to gain another 1000 ft for the pass after already hiking Eagle Cap. I smiled as Izzie and I passed them with full packs, sweating and huffing, but it was all worth it!
Back down from the peak, time to grab packs and head for the exit!
On we go towards the next pass!
Awesome lake views as we gained, looking back to Eagle Cap.
Saddle!
Pushing on!
Man, really padded out here, but really cool!
Well hello there little fella, you look like Dr. Seuss
Nice trickle form a small fall
Izzie, still smiles after a good push!
We finally dropped into the next valley to the west and after a few miles we reached the edge of Minam Lake. We were both pretty tired and needed a break so it wasn’t long before packs were dropped, and we were in the water! Any chance to get a little clean on a backpacking trek is well worth it! The lake was just as cold as Razz but we stayed in this one a bit longer just enjoying the views and paddling around a bit. Afterwards we posted up on a nice big rock and traded food for lunch, stuffing ourselves with the last of the crackers and cheese, chips, apples, and PB&J we had. We only had a few bars to get us out, but that was more than enough to push the 7 miles!
Minam Lake, what a nice place to chill and take a dip!
Trekkin on =)
We once again packed up after recharging our batteries lakeside and headed towards the trailhead. We chatted as we trekked about how funny families can be, and the quirky dynamics that make them unique. The trek out was just as beautiful as the rest of the trip. Everything was so green, and we were accompanied by the sounds of the Lostine River most of the way. Once again we watched the sun set as we trekked towards the end of our hike.
Minam Lake
Trekking back towards the car, last sights of the lake
Hello there, decisions decisions . . .
Just a bit further =)
Rock on!
Gotta love the pines here!
Sun starts to lower giving us some good light
Mmm perfect temps
Slowly the light fades
Golden hour has found us!
Down trees towards the end of the trek
Golden light everywhere
Final push!
Made it!
After some miles we made it back to the car, dropped our stuff, stretched out the best we could before throwing our packs in and hopping in Old Red headed to town for Mexican food! What a really awesome trek! Three days in the backcountry, awesome peaks, awesome lakes, awesome views, and awesome company! I can’t wait to come back and explore more!
Food: Instant Coffee, bagel, Triscutes and hummus, 1 PBJ, Orange, Apple, 2 Clif Builder Bar, 2 protein Bars, 1 Bag of Salt and Vinegar Chips, Gummy Worms.
Time: 11 hours
Distance: 13.7 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~2800 accumulated
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
The sun shone on the side of the tent warming it and waking us. I unzipped the tent and found, to my surprise, a thick layer of frost on the tent fly and everything else for that matter. It was most certainly cold the night before, but I never thought there would be ice! We got moving, starting the morning ritual of coffee, breakfast, and packing up camp. Soon we were back on our feet, feeling so much more refreshed from the night before.
On our feet again, Trip leader Tween heads out
What a beautiful day!
Trekkin further in
A network of trails spiders out from the valley
Everything was so green and Eagle Cap (9572ft), our target for the next day, stared us right in the face and was perfectly framed by the two ridges that made East Lostline River Valley. We were soon back on the trail headed further into the valley, searching for our next camp. After running into a few other backpackers and hikers we made our way from trail 1662 towards Mirror Lake. What a view, everything was just so gorgeous. It was a bluebird day, the mountains were high, the weather was perfect, and the alpine lakes were calm and serene. After pausing at Mirror Lake to take in the views, we headed east to the far end of the lake were we found a sweet spot to set up camp for the night.
Mirror Lake!
Camp! Moccasin Lake in the distance
Moccasin Lake
Once we had camp all set up, I grabbed my day pack, loaded it with water and snacks, then we headed out in search of Razz Lake, and hopefully Razzberry Mountain (9314 ft) for a good view of Matterhorn and the mountains beyond. The area was like a backpackers dream, it seemed like once you paid the price of the 7ish mile approach hike you could camp just about anywhere and have an incredible glacier lake view with mountains all around! The breathtaking views didn’t stop as we made our way towards the approach to Razz Lake and eventually Razzberry Mountain! We passed Moccasin Lake just below our camp and trekked on passing Douglas Lake, Lee Lake, and just to the north of Horseshoe where the creek runoff from Razz thundered across the trail.
Down towards Moccasin
Well hello there Eagle Cap
Trek on towards Razz Lake
White rocks guarding Razz lake
Up we go!
It was time to leave the well-trodden trail and blaze our way up. Izzie was game, with the promise of a lake to swim in just below the peak, she was just as motivated as I to get up the runoff through the steep trail-less woods. We pressed on, tromping through thick underbrush, downed trees and a few creek crossing before, out of nowhere, a trail appeared! “What was this?!” I thought as we trekked on along the faint trail. It seemed to be going the right way and before long we realized it was a small hikers’ trail heading through the beautiful woods and flower covered meadows headed up, towards the lake. Man what luck!
Razz lake! How beautiful!
Looking at the ridge line from Razz Lake, Razz Mountain looming just above!
We trekked on up, and up, until finally we popped out at the end of a large crystal calm lake. We had the place to ourselves, not a person in sight, and we decided to get in Razz Lake for a quick swim! Wheewwwww talk about cold! We were both shivering, but it was still a nice refreshing 40ish degrees! After a few minutes of trying to ignore how cold the water was, we both decided to get out and warm up on the lakeside rocks. What a beautiful day, I looked up towards the peak and the gnarly ridgeline we would need to cross in order to summit. I was curious what it would be like, and we chatted about the approach as we snacked drying in the sun. What a beautiful day, so perfect!
Ridge of white rock in the distance calling our name!
Izzie enjoying the climb!
Such beautiful, surprising creeks
Heading up
Nice loose scree to ascend!
The ridge is just at the top of this push!
Well hello there =)
Taking the path less traveled
Into the white rocks we go, such a colorful beautiful landscape!
Crushing it! Gorgeous views!
Onwards!
The peak is slowly coming into view
Still trekkin on
Tween, just enjoying the Expansive Washington views
Looking down the east side of the ridge line dropoff
We packed up and started up the approach towards the ridgeline. The granite white/grey rock reminded me so much of Yosemite as we ascended. It wasn’t long before we were far above the lake we just swam in and seeing gorgeous views of the Wallowas in the distance. We reached the ridge after a loose steep chossey approach (2 steps forward 1 step back) and began to pick our way across the ridge. Move after slowly calculated move we made our way towards Razzberry Mountain. We clung to the rocks, sometimes Class 2, lots of Class 3, and a few Class 4 spots, the climb was a lot of fun! Junipers were the biggest pain, they tried their best to hold us back, guarding the peak like little soldiers. After an hour or more picking our way across the ridge, we finally made the last few moves and simultaneously touched the highest point on the mountain to gain the peak!!! Once again, we tuckered down and had a nice snack, taking in views of all the gorgeous mountains in the distance. How incredible this areas was, and it was so nice to be far from anyone else on a backcountry peak!
Scramble city!
Ridgeline
Trekkin on, beautiful views abound
Scramble on!
The peak coming closer into view
Mind your step!
Views from Razzberry Mountain!
After basking in the views, we headed down, back towards a saddle where it seemed the path of least resistance to Razz Lake (which of course is straight down!). It was a chossboss scree surf down some really nice sand/rock back to the trail below. Izzie was all smiles when we finally got down and we chilled by the lake one last time before heading back. We said goodbye to Razz, turned back, and headed back to camp the way we came. We enjoyed the sunset and views of Eagle Cap as we trekked on towards camp. After a few miles, we reached camp, cooked up dinner, and were soon crashed for the night ready to take on Eagle Cap to see the Eclipse!
Down we go, scree surfing!
Views of the steep descent
Surf on Izzie!
Woot
Down down down
Finally found the lake once again after a nice long day of trekkin . . .still a few miles back to camp though!
Heading back
Lush green everything!
Trekkin on
The sun begins to go to sleep
Just a few more miles on this lovely single track
Single track love
Eagle Cap, looming over us in the twilight of night
Food: Instant Coffee, bagel, Triscutes and hummus, 1 PBJ, Orange, Apple, 2 Clif Builder Bar, 2 protein Bars, 1 Bag of Salt and Vinegar Chips, Gummy Worms, 1 Mountain House: Chicken and Mashed Potatoes.
Time: 12 hours
Distance: 12 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~2500 accumulated
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Izzie and I set out for the Wallowa Mountains in Oregon, in hopes for some good adventure and a good viewing of the eclipse. We had a pretty late start from Pullman headed south, and by the time we hit the trailhead it was 7:30pm (this has been a trend in our recent adventures). None the less, we arrived, ready for anything that was to come! We grabbed our bags from the car, already tired from the drive to get there, both ready to get out of the car and see what the area was all about.
The entrance to the East Lostine valley was from the north end, and from first glance, the approach looked relatively flat . . . at first glance. Within the first ½ mile we were already sweating and panting from the quick unexpected gain and switchbacks we needed to gain to get into the valley proper. The area was gorgeous though, pines everywhere, nice crisp air nipping at us as we pressed on, fighting against the last glimpse day light. We admired what we could see before we were benighted and it became that character building part of the day!
We trekked on, further inward, by headlamp. As we hiked on, the stars finally came out to play and we found large toads scattered on the trail. Perhaps it was mating season? We speculated to why they were right on the trail, as well as debated whether we were trying to dodge toads or horse poop (this was a highly used equestrian area). My headlamp began to die, but I wanted to push as far as we could get into the valley before stopping for the night. I swapped the batteries with another set that I had, but unfortunately it seemed as though they were on the way out too. I hiked by Izzie’s light as she led on, illuminating the toad speckled dusty trail.
Finally my headlamp died all together, luckily we were close to a nice flat area, and it was getting late so decided to set up camp and wait to get after it in the morning. Some good food and sleep would surely do us some good. Man I was tired and so was Izzie, not long after we had the tent setup in the crisp Oregon air, we were both crashed like tranquilized star fishes.
Brendan and I woke to the sound of rain hitting the tent. The rain started the night before as soon as we zipped the tent closed. Unfortunately there was no sign of it giving up. We poked our heads outside to see a low looming cloud near the surrounding peaks and a grayed out sky slowly drizzling down its rain on us. Gah, I didn’t want to move, I had slept so well that I didn’t move an inch all night. Regardless we had no choice but to get moving, trying to find our way out of the Chugach.
Welp, time to get moving!
We packed up camp, pulled on our rain gear, and soon stood ready to let out from the no name lake we found the night before. I bought Frog Togs on the way to the trail head as I neglected to bring my rain pants with me . . . . . they ripped in the first 2 minutes, right up the crotch . . . hahaha! I could tell it was going to be a good day!
Nice and soppy
The rain drizzled on as we began to skirt north, across the wide open side draws that fed the North Fork of Ship Creek valley. The ground was covered in a cushy nice moss and speckled with jetting rocks here and there. We gained a small ridge and we could see the whole valley including the contributing side canyon that we oringinally intended to use to approach Organ Mountain and Synthesizer Peak. All we could do was speculate from a far, as the weather, snow in the shoot, and whiteout conditions made us call for a “raincheck” on the peak attempt.
Beautiful, even with the fog
Damn bro, couldnt you hold it?! Hahaha little Grizzly sign
With bluebird dreams in our heads we dropped into the next valley, crossing a stream were the open draw headed up canyon via Ship Creek towards Moraine Pass. We saw a nice big pile of fresh bear skat in this valley, we kept our heads on a swivel in this grizz filled country. No one wants to accidentally come face to face with a bear, especially way out here in the heart of the Chugach. We kept skirting the south side of the valley headed east, and soon Grizzly Bear Lake came into view.
Further up Ships Creek
Choss and snow be darned, up we go!
Even with the clouds looming and the rain drizzling it was still gorgeous out here. Gnarly looking raw peaks jetted up on either side of the valley loomed in clouds with lush green bases, touting huge vertical gains, just daring to be summited. We stopped for a nice snack break. Grubbing down on PBJs and chips we looked in the distance to the snow covered Paradise Pass that we had to gain for our exit. We planned to dump down into Paradise Valley which would connect us back into the trail to Crows Pass. Brendan pointed “When you see this thing up close you are going to be like “why the heck did they name it paradise pass?!””. We chuckled at we snacked on taking in the incredible views.
Let the snowfield begin as we ascend Moraine Pass
Still a long way off to go, we pressed up a steep snow covered hill to enter the open Moraine Pass. Brendan took off up the snow like a Polar Bear, walking straight up and soon kicking in steps as the incline became almost vertical. I followed suite, and after a nice steep push we could see the next obstacle. Snow patch after snow patch, we hopped between the good snow and rocks avoiding the rotten snow pack. When you stepped on it, it would just give way, letting you sink like a brick.
The long steep slope up towards Paradise Pass
Looking back down towards Moraine Pass
A snow patch just below Paradise Pass was particularly rotten, so we decided to use a snow ramp to climber’s right to gain a rock traverse that would eventually bring us to the thin knife-edge pass. We kicked in snow steps once again. High on the ramp I looked down as the snow started to rot out just before reaching the rocks. This is the last place I wanted to fall I though to myself . . . one careful step after the next I finally grabbed chossey crumbly crap rock on the other side, whew!! Relatively safe?! We skirted the chossfest rock face until just before the pass when the great Chugach gave us one last nice class 4 step across crumbly rock. Not one hold was good, and the price of a mistake here would send you a few hundred feet below. You probably wouldn’t die . . . but it would definitely hurt. Everything was coming apart like trying to rock climb a sandcastle . . . with a nice big pack on. Brendan moved past it and was chilling on the pass I went for the move. Not one good hold, I just tried to distribute my weight out to 3 points as I moved. I stepped across as lightly as I could . . . and to my relief, soon standing on the knife-edge Paradise Pass with Brendan. Gotta love the spice level . . . Spice Word! The rain stopped and the clouds rose just momentarily enough for us to cook some lunch and take in the sights.
Its Paradise Boys! Count Chossula has definitely been here!
This looks like a good place for some Maruchan Chicken!
The fog moves in and out, giving us glimpses of the land below
We packed up once again and got going. We dove the scree field into Paradise pass, pushing quickly, surfing rocks and snow when there were good patches. We soon found ourselves at the mouth of Paradise Pass side hilling on a small goats path towards Clear Creek valley. We dumped down into Clear Creek valley and searched for a good crossing, I went high and Brendan went low. Soon, after some careful navigation and wet feet, we were on the other side of the creek. We pressed on, finishing out the side hilling and tied back into the trail to Crow Pass.
Dropping over the pass, we pressed further towards the trail
Lush, green, and beautiful
We gained Crow Pass, meeting a few day hikers and backpackers for the weekend. The rain kept coming down and the clouds closed us back up. As we descended the path headed towards the truck, I thought about how I wasn’t ready for the trip to end, and how special Alaska really is. Then all the sudden a white mountain goat appeared on the trail headed directly for us! The huge beast just walked towards us without a care in the word. We went high standing on a slope just 15 feet above him. He trotted by grazing on grass and flowers as he went, not caring that we were standing just feet away.
Almost back to Crow Pass
Look at this huge fella!
GOAT!!!! Photo Credit: Brendan Lee IG: alaskan_bren
Excited we snapped pictures and watched him closely pass. Awesome!!!!! I had been hoping for this the whole trip, and just feet away I finally got a close encounter with a mountain goat in Alaska. We trekked the final miles to the truck high on the experience and were soon throwing out packs in and pulling off our wet clothes for dry ones. Alaska is a beautiful raw place, and I was so happy to see it.
And there he goes, trotting up the trail like he owns it
One last glimpse up valley before finishing off the last 1/2 mile
ADDITIONAL PICTURES:
Cool plants right where we camped, no idea what they were, some kind of lichen perhaps
Weather: Hi in mid 50s, Low in upper 40s, Foggy, Rainy, Socked-in
Water: 4 Liters
Food: 1 Bagel, 2 Protien bars, 2 Cliff Protien Bars, 2 granola bar, 1/2 bag of gummyworms, Apple, 1 Mountain House: Chicken and Mashed Potatoes, 1/2 bag of Salt and Vinegar Chips, 1/2 bag of trailmix, 1 PB&J sandwich, Maruchan Chicken Ramen, Snickers.
Time: 7 hours
Distance: 11 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~3100 accumulated
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Alaska is a hard place. It’s a different kind of hard than New York City, but it can toughen you up and man out of you just the same. There is no trail to 95% of the peaks here. You get a nice approach trail to the base of the peak, then the rest is up to you! Grind on, through the chossfest, up the very steep scree, onto some nice rotten exposed scrambling, and finally to the top where you get slapped in the face by breathtaking views. This was pretty much the story of our trek, except much more choss, rain, and silly jokes about made up characters like Count Chossula and BooBoo Johnson (to keep us going) than I’d like to admit!
Lets get going! Starting in, headed up to Crow Pass
Brendan and I pulled our packs from the truck and strapped them on, ready to head deep into the Chugach State Park. We put feet on trial headed up Crows Pass where we would start our journey. The country here was beautiful! The trail meandered through a valley surrounded by lush, green, steep mountains that jetted almost straight up from the valley floor shrouded in clouds. I grinned from ear to ear, so happy to be on the trail. As we trekked further up the trail Brendan would point in the distance, calling out peak names and telling me stories of past treks.
Nice 180 view from the trail, awesome views everywhere! (Click to Enlarge)
Crow Pass!
We finally reached crows pass where there was a nice cabin, settled in the middle of the long meadow. What a nice place to spend the weekend and chill, but we had other plans in mind. The sky was still grey from the passing fog which would fade in and out, covering the mountains, and then opening up momentarily to give us incredible views. Just past Crow Pass we got a great view of Ravens Glacier to the east. Its ice cold blue core melted down creating incredible huge waterfalls at the headwaters of Raven Creek that eventually fed Eagle River.
Ravens Glacier
We trekked on down the trail until just before Clear Creek canyon, where Brendan stepped off the trail saying “whelp here is our exit!” We skirted the grassy hillside avoiding cliff outs before finally dumping into Clear Creek canyon. Let the boulder creek hopping begin! We made our way up the valley, back and forth across the creek until finally reaching the base of Steamroller pass. It was time to go to work and we slogged our way up the steep chossfest. Step after step through loose rock and finally a long patch of snow, we finally gained the top of the pass. As soon as we hit the saddle, fog rolled in, giving us whiteout conditions and it began to rain . . . time to dawn the rain jackets, frog-togs, and pack covers!
Clear Creek Canyon
Steemroller pass!
Little snow action!
Into the fog we go!
From here we ditched our packs and headed up the knife-edge ridge through the white-out conditions towards Camp Robbers Peak standing at 5855 ft. picking our way through the exposed class 3/4 ridge finally found the final approach to Robbers. We made our way up the rotten final push false summit after false summit. Each handhold or foothold had to be inspected, and even it was never to be fully trusted as it could easily give way and send you hurdling down a never-ending gully. Gotta love the Chugach choss!
Brendan, looking like a champion on the ridge to Camp Robbers Peak
Camp Robbers Peak (5855)!
After summiting we headed back to the pass that was still socked in, no visibility. We found the path of least resistance and scree surfed our way into the Arch Angel lakes valley. As soon as we dropped into the valley, all the rain, clouds, and cold wind died off and let way to beautiful bluebird skies. We trekked over to one of the lakes and took ourselves a nice lunch of Maruchan Chicken soup and PBJs. It was a nice change of pace from the morning and we hoped the rest of the day followed suite.
Headed over Steamroller pass, further into the Chugach!
Cool little lake below the Kinglet Traverse we decided to have lunch at
We packed back up and trekked on towards Arch Angel Pass it see a white mountain goat standing just before the pass checking us out, until he spotted us, and turned slowly walking out of sight. We pressed on, eyeballing the Kings traverse as we went, until finally reaching the pass to be blasted by incredible clear views of the Chugach State Park. What a gorgeous moment! Looking north we saw the Organ Mountain’s approach chute was totally caked in snow and we didn’t have the right gear to ascend, so we decided to take the Kinglet Traverse instead and were afforded some great views.
Looking over the edge of Arch Angels Pass
Alaska and Brendan in all their glory! (Click to enlarge)
Looking north from the Kinglet Traverse
We pressed on and up the good grind to East Kinglet peak (5190). We finally reached the summit and once again were taken back by some incredible views. We could see Paradise Pass, Arch Angel valley, Camp Robbers peak where we came, and north into Ship Creek valley guarded by Organ Mountain and Synthesizer peak. We felt like we could see all of the heart of the Chugach. We kept trekking on the ridgeline touching off on Middle Kinglet and soon West Kinglet (5175). The views from the ridgeline were something of a dream.
West Kinglet
Brendan, looking down, finding a way into the valley where we planned to camp.
Little accessory cord assist to get us through the ballbearing downclimb!
Finally we decided to drop into Ship Creek and find a nice camp for the night. We continued to skirt the ridge until we found a weak spot in the ridge, leading to the valley below. Using a 7mm hand line we lowered ourselves across the ball bearing entrance until sure footing was found. One more hand line drop got us to a scree route that went. We scree surfed our way down into a no name lake where we pitched out tent, filtered water, ate dinner, and finally zipped down our tent before crashing like tranquilized beasts.
Looking down into the valley
Dropping in
Closer to the no name lake where we planned to camp
Camp baby!
Campside lake
What an incredible day! Just think we still had another full day before leaving this paradise!
ADDITIONAL PICTURES:
Coming down off of Crow Pass
Taking the fun ridge to Robbers Peak
Kinglet Traverse!
Kinglet East
Looking back at Brendan in his natural environment!
Weather: Hi in mid 60s, Low in upper 40s, Foggy, Rainy, Sockedin
Water: 4 Liters (including dinner)
Food: 1 Bagel, 2 Protien bars, 2 Cliff Protien Bars, 2 granola bar, 1/2 bag of gummyworms, Apple, 1 Mountain House: Chicken and Mashed Potatoes, 1/2 bag of Salt and Vinegar Chips, 1/2 bag of trailmix, 1 PB&J sandwich, Maruchan Chicken Ramen, Snickers.
Time: 10 hours
Distance: 12 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~6100 accumulated
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Beautiful Views of Yosemite mid route on SuperSlide
Justin and I pulled into the last open parking spot in the Ahwahnee Hotel parking lot ready to start the day in search for a climb called SuperSlide on the Royal Arches wall in Yosemite National Park. A true search it was! Not totally sure where the beginning of the climb started, we stared at the Royal Arch Cascade and began hiking east along the base of the rockface. We found lines of bolts and climbs that looked similar, but it wasn’t until about ½ mile of route inspection and almost 30 mins later that realized we went the wrong way at the cascades, and had to turn around.
Let the search begin!
Arriving back at the cascades, nice and warm from the search hike, we headed west soon taking a climbers trail to the base of the wall and coming face to face with “Trail By Fire” a 5.8 Offwidth crack. The low angle line looked good, but offwidth being what it is, we were sure in for a struggle! Justin racked up and started off the ground making the first few moves rather quickly. The crack was wide, fist stacks, hand fist stacks, and chickenwings were welcome in this flared beast. Justin kept pushing on up the line making some good grunts along the way.
View from the base of “Trial By Fire” (5.8) Offwidth
Offwidth (if you are unfamiliar) is that special kind of climbing where the crack is too big for fingers or single hand jams and usually takes awkward body manipulation movements to ascend the crack, resulting in blood, sweat, grunts, and typically a full body pump afterward. Justin bumped his #5 cam higher as he climbed and kept moving. After the middle section he through the upper relatively quickly, popped on top of a large chalkstone clipped chains, set up an anchor and soon was ready for me to climb on.
Starting out
Moving and a groovin
let the grunts continue
lil closer
crakc going to work to Justin
boooya just below the chalkstone
Me, swimming in a sea of rock that is Trail By Fire, trying not to get swallowed whole!
At first glance the crack look pretty simple and straightforward. I started in, hand jams just at the limit of my hands were found but I could still manage. About 10 feet or so off the ground the crack began to swallow me whole. The hand jams turned to chicken wings and the features on the face turned from edges to smears. The middle section proved most challenging for me. I started to sweat and give off a lot of heat with the amount of energy I was putting off just to inch my way up the flared crack. Both feet in, I inched on. Even with the cool air, the rock just radiated the heat I was producing right back onto me. I left like I was in a sauna! After a lot of grunts, groans, and a few rally yells I reached the chains covered in sweat.
Linkup Pitch from top pf Trial By Fire to base of P2 of SuperSlide (the chossfest)
This thing goes right?
Looking back down the connector pitch
Justin jokingly asked if I wanted the next lead, I was so worked I had to rest! Justin led on the next “pitch” connecting Trail by Fire with the start of P2 of SuperSlide (5.9). Justin climbed on into the unknown as the two climbs were not traditionally linked. The next connector pitch was a chossfest. The rock quality was not great and it seemed like everything was covered in moss, plants, or crumbing rock. After some questionable climbing I met Justin at a smile and a hi-5 for the effort leading such a crap pitch! We swapped over leads, I headed up P2. The start was a nice high foot and being weighed down by a doublerack it seemed cumbersome at first. Once I placed my first cam and shook out it got a lot better. The face climbing was chill and soon I was into a beautiful crack and it was time to work! I lead on placing piece after piece, but was soon forced out of the crack just under a small roof. I placed a protection piece, and soon pulled the nice roof onto a ledge that walked left to a tree at the base of P3.
I set up my anchor and belayed Justin up as the rope drag would have become too much to climb further. We swapped leads once again and Justin headed up the clean line with some nice mixed face/crack to link both P3 and P4. Oh the climbing was nice! If there was a questionable hold, there would be a bomber one just next to it or a great handjam to make up for it. I followed on and cleaned the gear as I went. P3 and P4 were really fun, handjam after handjam to bomber facehold and back I ascended the 2 pitches. There was a nice traverse about half way up P3, that seemed sketch at first, then you grabbed a bomb hold and realized the worry was for nothing. The pitches were really fun!
Starting up P3
Going to work
Linking up P4
Topping out on P4
These goofy guys!
At the base of P5 we meet up again and looked up at the line. Research stated that this supposed to be the crux of the climb. The nice Yosemite 5.9 crack ran out and you were faced with some thin face holds to make the final move to the chains. We debated for a bit, and in the end I decided to let Justin take the lead. Looking back I really wish I would have led out, but such is life, the climb was beautiful! Justin led on and was soon at the anchors, putting me on belay. I soon followed switching between a fun 2 crack system, collecting gear as I went. The second crack finally petered out and the hand jams turned to a thinner finger crack. The climbing was awesome! Full toe engagement and nice solid finger placement all the way to the knuckle were found all the way up the crack to a face, forcing the route left. I swapped to a right foot in the crack and with a solid right hand, moved for a large sloper and a thin left foothold. I stood on the foot, manteling on the sloper and once again was standing side by side with Justin. What an awesome climb!
Start of P5
Lets get to it!
Thin fingers towards the top, such a fun route!
Looking back down at P3/P4 from start of P5
180 View from the top of Superslide
We rapped pitch after pitch as quickly as we could as we watched a storm start moving in from the West. We wrapped P4 and went to pull the rope. Of course, as whenever you are in a hurry, it got stuck on a small flake. James scoffed at the rope and flipped it vigorously to get the fella out. We are about to gear up and re-ascend, when I gave it one last fleeting try. Boop!!!! The rope come free and falling towards us. We hi-5ed and wooped in excitement! With the rap crux behind us we quickly descended to the ground and got back to the car. What an awesome day, one of the best climbs I’ve done to date!
I met my buddy Chris in the parking lot just near Yosemite Falls, waiting with a big smile! There I met Jeff, a new friend, as we gathered our gear. We initially planned to climb a fun multi-pitch traditional (trad) route called Sunnyside Bench near Yosemite Falls. We racked up in the parking lot, grabbed our ropes and packs and headed for the base of the climb. As we approached the falls we noticed the water was raging! This was a record year for snow and thus the flow was on epic proportions. The huge waterfall thundered down before us and its spray covered a huge area around the base. We walked across the bridge, getting wet as we did, towards the base of the climb.
Crossing the bridge, the falls were raging!
We reached the start and noticed the entire first pitch was drenched in water. Let down, but not beat, we went for plan B just on the other side of the falls, called Munginella. It was a fun trad route (5.6), and a good introduction to Yosemite multi-pitch climbs – and a chance to get my feet wet on Yosemite granite rock. We took off up the climber trail and soon found ourselves at the base of the first pitch zero (P0 – scramble pitch) of the climb. We tossed anything we didn’t plan on carrying with us in the nearby trees, threw our helmets and climbing shoes on and headed up the chill class 3 scramble to the base of P1, signified by a nice large tree.
Start of climbers trail
Munginella Topo
Chris, starting up P0 scramble to start of P1
Chris at the base of P1
Setting up getting ready for some fun!
The sun was already beating the climb as we sorted the rope in the shade of the base of P1. Chris was first up to lead, I would belay him from below and once Chris reached the top of P1 he would belay both Jeff and myself as we simul-followed, leaving me to clean all the trad gear from the route and take the next two leads. We double checked each other’s knots and gear before Chris took off on the first pitch!
Chris starting Up P1
and Up
and Up
and Up some more!
Methodically and quickly moving up and over the rock, Chris climbed on. He would pause every few feet to place a solid piece of protection (pro), clip in an alpine draw and then his rope, before moving on and up the route. Making it look like cake as he took down the first pitch, me and Jeff chatted on about what we did and what brought us to the valley. To ensure we wouldn’t run out of gear, we were carrying a double-rack. It was a bit heavier but we just rainbowed up the route, practicing good placement on the fun climb. It wasn’t long before Chris was at the top of P1, anchor set up, hanging from his belay, with both ropes through his ATC guide, calling down for Jeff and myself to start climbing.
Here we go! The first pitch was fun, the rock was warm form the sun but it was cool to the touch in the shade. It seemed very porous, ready to suck up any drop of sweat from your hands, so we chalked well as we climbed. I paused at each piece of pro, retrieving it from the rock and clipping it to my harness. It just kept getting heavier as I climbed. I grabbed the tree and climbed up to the right of Chris, clipped into the anchor and took the sights in. As soon as I got there we began the changeover and Chris started loading me down with the doublerack. I tightened my harness tighter as the weight started pulling down on me.
Looking up at P2
Chris ascending P2
It was time to roll, I lead out trailing a second rope behind me to belay Jeff once I reached the top of P2. The handholds were great and movement over the rock was really fun! I reached the first crux and placed a solid piece below a first baby V notch roof and moved under it. A crack ran through the small roof, just perfect for a handjam. I reached up with my chalk-covered right hand and slid it into the crack. Man it was bomber! I wedged it in further, flexed my hand, pulled my feet up and pulled up and over the roof. I placed my next piece around a nice bomber tree and continued up the face, moving left before the next crux – a larger slippery roof.
Chris on the crux roof on P2
Spice Girls!!!!
I placed pro, moved my hands up, and finally found a nice chip out right to place my foot. I pulled my weight out right and stood on the foot to find some nice jugs. Past the roof was a nice wide ledge just below an old beat up piton that had been hammered in years ago. I threw in a cam, nut and slung the piton to create an anchor. Soon I had Jeff and Chris set up on top belay and they began to climb up the face. We were soon all smiles at the top of P2. I snapped pictures of Chris just below the roof making it look bit spicier than it was just for fun. I was thirsty form belaying in the sun drenched anchor, so as soon as Jeff reached the P2 topout I chugged water from my bag he was carrying for me. Wasting no time, I set lead out on P3.
Looking down from the belay station at the top of P3
P3 was an interesting, short climb. I moved up the face and left into a protectable corner and placed a large #4 half way up the corner. This area got a bit funky and the body movement seemed a little awkward. Like anything, working one bit at a time, soon had me pulling the top pf P3 and setting up a belay. Jeff and Chris warned me that there was a bunch of loose stuff at the top of the climb and to be especially careful. The head-sized boulders teetering on the top of the pitch were a menacing bunch. I belayed from a solid tree and soon both Jeff and Chris were above the final corner, all smiles about the warm climb.
Nasty loose rocks at the top of P3
Jeff on the walkoff
Chris hiding in the weeds!
Jeff, makin moves!
Walkoff time, gorgeous views all around
Man, what a good initiation to Yosemite! We soon cleaned up all our gear and took a nice walkoff/rap to get back to the start of P0 and retrieve all our gear that we left behind. I was so happy to be there, in the climbing Mecca of the US, where it all started. So excited for the climb we just finished and all the climbs to come this week, this was just the beginning! Thanks Chris and Jeff for my first taste of trad-multipitch in the valley!
South Mountain (SoMo) is one of the most underutilized places for training hikes in Phoenix (with respect to Squaw Peak and Camelback Mountain) and there are plenty of opportunities for good mileage and gain (despite most Phoenicians predisposition against SoMo).
To solved the issue that SoMo isn’t very tall, I like to do “Over and Back” hikes. One great training hike is as follows: Start at Kiwanis Trail (TH), gain National Trail, drop down Pyramid Trail (to the flat), and return.
Not only is the trail really good for mileage and gain, it also has some very gorgeous views!
Heading up Kiwanis
On National Just below the Stone Pavilion
Up on Pyramid Ridge
On pyramid, just cruising along
Coming down Pyramid
Coming back up Pyramid, looking towards the TV towers
Coming back up Pyramid, looking towards the TV towers
Looking back west towards the Estrella Mountains beyond South Mountain
Stone Pavilion
Crossing the summit road from National Trail, getting back onto Kiwanis for the final descent
A saxophone blasted “Careless Whisper” by George Michael at 4:00 am AZ time . . . I’m up, I’m up! My buddy Andrew silenced the saxophone on his phone just before my watch blasted off the wake up alarm. Man, looks like it’s time to move! That night the temp had dropped into the 30s and the other fellas in the tent (Andrew, Larry, and Eric) weren’t exactly ready that kind of chill. As we packed up the camp they complained about getting only four or so hours of sleep. I was alright, but didn’t want to just come out and say I slept like an angel! Soon after packing up camp, an older fella in his 60s pulled up to the Whitehouse Trailhead ready to pick us up for the shuttle to Wirepass trailhead down House Rock Road in southern Utah.
Up the sandy wash we go!
Out target for the day was Buckskin Gulch. We aimed to complete the 21 mile trek from Wirepass back to Whitehouse trailhead via a 13.7 mile trek down a portion of the longest slot canyon in the world (Buckskin Gulch), finishing with a 7.1 mile trek along the Paria River to our base camp. We were dropped at the trailhead and hit the bathroom for one last stop before the long push.
The four of us trekked down the open sandy wash that lead to Wirepass, chatting about future trekking goals and fretting on the onset of the cold water and deep mud that was undoubtedly ahead. Before we knew it the wash narrowed, squeezing into the first section of the close-walled canyon. We shimmied our way down into the gap, surrounded by incredibly tall and beautiful sandstone walls shaped by water over thousands of years. Soon we came to our first obstacle, a nice little 7-foot down climb. I dropped down first and gave the other guys a hand one by one until we were all safely on the ground.
First little obstacle
We pressed on until finally opening up into a large confluence between Wirepass and the Buckskin Gulch…it was game time! On the right wall a collection of glyphs were etched into the rock, still bright, standing the test of time. Knowing we didn’t have all day to hang around we pressed on down the gulch.
Bighorn Sheep Petroglyph
Bighorn Sheep Petroglyph
Bighorn Sheep Petroglyph
Bighorn Sheep Petroglyph
Bighorn Sheep Petroglyph
Petroglyph
Bighorn Sheep Petroglyph
Looking upstream of buckskin
Downstream of Buckskin, further into the belly of the beast!
The huge walls rose higher and higher around us. The light touched the tops of the canyon, but only in certain places and at just the right time did it reach the canyon floor. We made our way through the muddy canyon floor, moving quick on anything dry and watching our steps on all the boulders so as not to twist an ankle. Before long we were to the cesspool, a one mile section of deep dark pools that hardly ever see light. I watched Larry, who was leading, as he pushed in the nearest pool and the water went higher and higher around his legs. Whew man it looked cold! Soon after Larry, I plunged in as well. Luckily my neoprene socks aided in warding off the chill of the 40 degree water temps.
Here comes the mud!
Andrew walking on water!
Logs . . . just a little high up
Whats that in the distance?
Oh . . . Its Bees
Who planted stuff down here?!
What that?
Another Bees nest
Tall and beautiful
Opening up a bit
Andrew tackles another small obstacle
VW sized boulders
Slot it up!
Gotta love the colors
and the walls
Watch your head!
Andrew and Erix trek on
Larry leading the pack into the Cesspool
Larry getting after it!
Mmmm cold and deep
Logs logs everywhere!
We exited the cesspool and found ourselves at the middle trail, signified by 2 bighorn sheep on the north wall at the base of the escape route. It was steep and sandy, not the kind of place you wanted slip on! I backed away to look high above for a hidden petroglyph panel that was supposed to be 100 ft off the deck. I climbed some cool moki steps on the south side of the gulch and finally found them. How cool! I still have no idea how they got that high to etch the symbols.
Two bighorn sheep petroglyphs at Middle Trail
Moki steps opposing middle trail
Looking up on the North face hidden above a ledge is a killer petroglyph panel
Closer
and Closer still
After checking out the area it was time to press on. From there the trail was relatively dry, no more pool wading and the mud was at a minimum. We couldn’t have prayed for better conditions! The gulch opened wider in sections, and cottonwoods grew out at the edges on sand bars. After a large opening in the gulch it would constrict back down, twisting and turning the further we trekked. Soon we reached the “Rockfall” which required decent by using a good fixed rope. One at a time we slid down and were soon safely on the bottom. I looked to the right and re-climbed some moki steps, just for fun!
Moki steps!
Moki
Past middle trail!
Nice formaitons
How low can you go?
Never knew it would be so green down here
Nice Cairn
Another!
cool light on the rocks
Uhhh someone loose their oil drum?
Larry gracefully down climbing the rockfall w a handline
Dont mind the Logs
From there we knew we weren’t far from the designated camping area at Wolf’s Knoll near the confluence. Sure enough the canyon soon opened wide to two large vegetated dirt mounds on both sides which served as the campsites, high up and safe from flash floods. We took in the beautiful sights of the walls stretching up all around us and kept on pressing until finally finding the confluence of the Buckskin Gulch and Paria River. What a beautiful sight! The Paria was flowing gently, brown yet beautiful, through the gulch.
Eric pushes further on
Beautiful colors just before wolfs knoll
Paria River!
Up the Paria Cant make this stuff up!
Awesome formations on the sides of the canyon
Trekking on!
Low but good warm flow
twists and turns
interesting cocoon!
Andrew trekking up the Paria
We turned upstream and finished pushing the 7.1 miles up towards the Whitehouse Rock trailhead. For the first few miles we were still constricted in a gulch, but then finally the walls opened up to wide views of the sandstone hills of the Utah upper desert. I searched for more petroglyphs along the way as we made our way back and forth across the river. Finally our trek ended where it started, everyone in pretty good spirits and ready for dinner. Another incredible day spent outside!
ADDITIONAL PICTURES:
Enter the Gulch! (Wire Pass)
Petroglyphs on the side of the Paria River
Pushing up the Paria
Closer!
The gulched walls open up to desert goodness
birdsnests?
Hidden Panel at Whitehouse Trailhead . . . id tell you where this is, but id have to kill you hahaha
Rockface @ confluence of Wire Pass and Buckskin Gulch
Slot goodness
Looks like the start of an arch
Dark and awesome
Just little mud!
Dont mind the Logs . . . cause that how high the water gets in here!
Paria River Confluence to White House Campground: http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=391 (obviously we won’t be doing the whole Paria, just the section from the confluence of buckskin north to White House (right at UT/AZ boarder))
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 60s, Low 40s, Sunny
Water: 3 liters
Food: 2 Protien Bars, 2 granola bars, 1 Cliff Bar, 1 apple, 1 bag of jerky, bag of salt and vinegar chips, PB&J (thanks for the bite Andrew), gummy worms
Woken once again by a Saxophone blasting “Careless Whisper” by George Michael Blasts at 4:00 am, I shifted in my bag. Déjà vu from the Buckskin trek the morning before? Nope! Now it was time to pack our things up and head into Zion to grab our permits for the top down canyoneering route called The Subway! Once again Andrew, Larry, Eric, and I woke, packed up, and got ready for the day to come.
Piling into the truck with Larry behind the wheel, we headed for Zion. The miles faded pretty quickly despite a rock fall on the east side reverting us to enter instead via Hurricane UT from the west side. We soon found ourselves at the visitor center, running in and grabbing our permits before driving to the lower left fork trailhead and dropping my bike off to complete the shuttle to the start at Wildcat Canyon trailhead. The plan was to start up top, push the 9.5 miles down the technical canyon and pop out at the trailhead where, to add insult to injury, I would ride back up on my bike and grab the truck to finish the loop.
We had our work cut out for us so we stepped out of the truck and gathered our packs together. With everything in order at about 11am we set out on the wide open pine-ridden prairie down Wildcat Trail to the southeast. The bluebird skies only had a few clouds and the temps were perfect… couldn’t have picked a better day!
Lets get moving!
Wildcat Canyon Trail
Northgate Peaks trail
The Subway!
Ohhhh I see the dropoff!
Here we go!
Nice, found a few aspen
After a mile down trail, we met the Northgate Peaks Trail and turned right headed towards the lip of the dropoff. The blue sky shone through as we edged closer to the sign that was marked “The Subway Trailhead”. We were all excited and clambered on, down a cairned sandstone rock. We were spit onto a well-cairned and traveled foot trail that headed through the woods and down the slick rock. After many gorgeous open views, we found ourselves at the top of the final steep descent into the bottom of the Russel Gulch.
Slickrock action
Dome at the Saddle (see the cairn?)
Looking back for a moment to take it all in
Rocks already showing a Subway like formaiton
Down down we go
Cairns are quite the help here
Just over the saddle
Hello flowers =)
descending
I can finally see the tall walls of the canyon below
Nice steep downclimb into Russells Gulch
Finally in the canyon!
Large pool at the bottom if Russel’s Gulch
We turned southwest into the Left Fork Creek, and right away we could see the water carved walls that were reminiscent of “The Subway” formation. The canyon was gorgeous, covered in lush green foliage, cool from the shade, and stunning rocks all around. We trekked down the creek until coming upon our first rappel off a Huge VW sized boulder. When we arrived, one group ahead of us was in the middle of rappelling and another was waiting so we took a break for lunch.
At the bottom finally
Found a group rapping the first Obstacle
Rap Eric Rap!
Lets roll on!
Looks like a swimmer coming up!
Larry, Andrew, and Eric had little rappelling experience but I walked them through the procedure. Soon we were all down safely on the ground past the first 25’ section. We once again turned downstream and after just a hop skip and a jump, we were faced with a large pool . . . welp, no more holding off the wetsuits, it was time to dawn them! We all zipped ourselves up, looking like tadpoles getting ready for our first swim, and walked into the depths of the cool, shallow pool that was only stomach deep. Not but 30 yards later we overlooked a large chalkstone into a small waterfall and our first swimmer… we didn’t put these things on for nothing!
First swimmer
Downclimb babay, suite up!
Exit
swim swim swim
Wheewww nice and cold
Get em!!!
Beautiful canyon
Pushing onto the next obstacle
I was first to plunge in, and like a dog getting into a pool for the first time I paddled to the other side of the long slotted swimmer. Whew! Larry, then Andrew, and finally Eric all safely dropped in and were following close behind. We all laughed as we exited the pool, happy for the warm sun shining on us. It didn’t take long before we found our next obstacle, a double chalkstone drop each into swimmers. No need for a rope on these, we just slinked off the chalkstones into the cold dark water below. The second drop had a large log stuck under it which was a nice support for our feet as we got ready to plunge into the deepest, darkest pool of the day. Wheewwww if I wasn’t already awake, that pool sure did the trick! The cold swimmer began to pull my core temps down and I quickly looked for sun to snap pictures of the crew as they followed on.
Double chalkstone Obstacle ahead!
More downclimb goodness
This one was dark, deep, and cold!
This one was dark, deep, and cold!
Where did the sun go?!
Plopping with style
Oh need some of that warmth!
Pushing on
How gorgeous
Could stay here all day!
Keyhole waterfall aheaD?
Why yes, yes it is!
Closer
Downclimbing, no rap needed
Eric checking out a hole warn from water
Just above the Keyhole Waterfall
We kept trekking through the beautiful canyon and soon found ourselves at the keyhole waterfall. The keyhole waterfall is signified by a large hole that had been drilled through the sandstone by water just to the left of the waterfall. This was supposed to be the next rap, however a large log had fallen below the drop creating an easy to walk ramp. We just used the rap bolts as an anchor for a hand line and walked down. Once at the bottom we walked through a small corridor shaped like a mini subway. Logs and debris were all over the place, but they just added to the aesthetic.
Coming down the keyhole hallway
lil debris, no big deal
Gorgeous . . . just dont fall on us!
Looking back up the corridor
Press on
Man what a beautiful place!
gotting closer to the final upper subway section
turn after turn of gorgeous canyon
Finally we walked out into a nice open area with a vertical log wedged between the floor and the canyon wall. This was the upper subway just before the final rap into the lower subway. How nice it was to see this famously photographed sight in person. We took a final break before the long slog out, basking in the sun like lizards still trying to shake off the chill from the double chalkstone swimmer earlier in the canyon.
Upper Subway – Famous vertical log!
Catching some sun before the final rap
It was time to get moving again as I stuffed the final crumbs of salt and vinegar chips I had into my mouth. After a turn or two we found the final rap on canyon right to the side of a waterfall into the lower subway. We could hear a large group of “bottom up” hikers below in the pools taking in the sights of famed formation. We set up our rope and rapped the final drop and were soon stripping wetsuits. It was nice not to need the suits any further. The rest of the hike was gorgeous… beautiful slick rock, cascading waterfalls, and lush green foliage everywhere complimenting the red rocks. After a few miles we finally reached the exit canyon right. I took the keys to the truck and took off up the Cliffside.
Pushing on
Looking down into the Lower Subway
Oooh nice formation
Almost time to peel off those wetsuites
Final Rap into the Lower Subway
Looking downstream into the Lower Subway
Little closer
Looking back up steam into the Lower Subway
Bye bye, I miss you already!
I grabbed my bike from the trees where I stowed it and began to ride back to the upper trailhead. I had originally thought it was just a few hundred feet of gain in a few miles, but later research let me know that it was 7.5 mile ride with 1900 feet of gain. Let’s just say when the quad burning, calf aching, sweat pouring, beautiful view having grind was over, I was pretty happy! I drove back down, grabbed the guys and we headed back to Springdale for much deserved pizza and beer. What an awesome day enjoying Zion national park!!!
Mike, Meg, and myself strapped on our packs and headed out on a warm afternoon search of adventure up Longs Canyon in Sedona AZ. The trail itself was 3.5 miles and 800 feet up the canyon before its terminates. I looked at the map and it seemed as though there was a possibility to push up the rest of the canyon to its top and tie into the peak Secret Mountain and hopefully a walkover down the backside of the mountain.
Longs Canyon tailhead!
The trail was warm and open as we let out high desert with small to mid shrubs, plenty of cacti, and a few juniper in the distance, and red rocks all-around of course! We trekked on, only seeing a few people towards the trailhead and soon we were off on our own trekking the red dirt of Sedona canyons. What a beautiful place, you could see all the red and white sandstone rocks in the distance covered at the base by pine and juniper.
Open desert still
Getting more into the woods and away from the open desert
Scrambling for fun off the trial
Mike, getting after it on a small sidetrek
Back to the woods!
We trekked on further into the trail and soon the low brush gave way to taller trees and we found many traces of old creek beds as we followed the wandering trail deeper into the canyon. We only passed a few people as we trekked further. The further we pushed the more green and lush the woods around us became. We kept on trekking and soon found a nice brown sign that stated “End of Trail”. I was thinking . . . not just yet, as we sat down and took a nice lunchbreak.
Technically the “End” of the trail
I checked the map and saw that it gained about 500 feet in a quarter mile, and I though, whelp that could be just a scramble or a rock climb . . . only one way to find out. Mike bridged the question “Do you guys want to head up the canyon and check it out?” Mike already knew where my head was, with a big grin on my face, and I think it was more to gage Meg’s interest. She seemed keen on the idea and we blew past the brown sign heading up into the unknown.
Hmm looks like we are in for some fun bushwhacking!
The canyon was trail-less as we ascended. One in a while we would see a random cairn, but for the most part, not much sign of others traveling here. It wasn’t long before we came our first small obstacle: a short climb. I headed up first, and to my surprise Meg was on it without question soon pulling the lip and trekking on. “Alright!” I thought hopeful that we could all push up the canyon without turning back. We bushwhacked, rock hopped, and climbed our way further and further into the canyon. The weeds and thicket would become thicker and then all the sudden let up, giving way to easy trial, then back to thicket again.
Bushes abound!
Trek on!
Gettin thick!
Nice rock obstacles
More rock hopping
Well hello there strange cool lookingplant
Pushing on and up the canyon
Get it Mike!
There is light at the end of the tunnel!
Teamwork baby!
Looking back at the canyon behind us, how beautiful!
We pressed further and further, until finally 600 vertical feet from our top-out we came to a dry fall. This is where it started getting fun! Mike searched for his own route to scout ahead, as I poked and prodded finding the chilliest route to ascend. The rocks were loose and the climb became pretty steep. Seeing that Meg didn’t look super comfortable I pulled out a 25’ purple 6mm cord form my pack (I brought it just in case). I tied one end around my waste and would climb until she was holding the end of the rope. At the end of the rope, I would lay down, grabbing onto the closest large boulder or tree creating a human anchor and she used the rope as a guideline to climb up to where I was. Pretty much like a poor man’s climbing belay.
Welp that’s a class 5 climb . . . lets see what else we can find!
We ascended the canyon like this for some time overcoming some seriously steep, brush covered, chossy crumbing inclines. At one point we passed near a rattler that sounded off, and we traversed to the other side of the canyon giving it some room (we had better things to do than play with a snake). We kept ascending, taking obstacle after loose obstacle on. At the top of one scramble there were huge teetering boulders just waiting to be released. With all of us in a safe spot I kicked one sending the whole pile down the canyon yelling “ROCK!!!!” as I did. I figured this was best as to dismantle the potentially hazardous rock pile for the next adventurers to ascend the route. The rocks all soon came to a sliding halt and we pressed on.
Popping out of the shrubbed canyon into unobstructed views!
Mike and Meg making their way across the traverse
It still bushwhackin time!
Survived the Canyon ascent! . . . now just the 10 mile walk back to the closest trailhead hhaha
Looking back over Longs Canyon we ascended, how gorgeous!
We soon popped out of the canopy cover of the canyon and could see across beautiful Sedona. We were still 200 feet shy of standing on top of Secret Mountain, and the search for a clear path began. Eventually we skirted north, finding a nice shrub covered ramp that was the most affordable gain to the top. We took it, moving carefully as we did. Finally after some nice manzanita and pine tree bushwhacking, we reached the top and started looking for the Secret Mountain trail . . . . of course like any adventure . . . there was no trail.
Views are killin it!
Traversing north towards a nice bushwhack ramp, stellar views!
We kept walking in the direction where we trail should have been . . . still nothing. I was ready to turn and burn, the shortest distance back to the truck because I knew the route went. Mike on the other hand was still optimistic and said we should press a bit further before calling it. We trekked on, just another 5 minutes and like magic the trail appeared. A chunky, but nice footpath bringing us all the way across Secret Mountain to the top of Loy Canyon were we would walk out.
On top of Secret Mountain
Hey look a holding pen at the cabin ruins we found
Sunset looking great as we descended!
Awesome sick views!
Mike - Lookin classy as always
Pooping out up top, oh the bushwhacking aint done yet!
Trek on!
Pushing further across the moutnaintop into the sunset
beautiful pines and cool breeze greeted us
More pines, so nice up here!
Getting a glimps of Sedona below
Oh hello there friend!
Found a Cabin up ontop of Secret Mountain!
Gorgeous Sunset views as we started down Loy Canyon
Mike checkin out some rocks in the last few miles
It was a beautiful descent, incredible views across Sedona, through the cool pines, and switchbacks of Loy. After 10 miles we reached the mouth of the canyon to a trailhead where our friend Adrian soon arrived to pick us up and bring us back to base camp. Another awesome adventure, safely executed with good people in a beautiful place. Get out and make adventure dreams a reality!
The alarm blasted once again. This morning was much cooler than the last. The cold air was pouring in off the Colorado River, and with nothing but silk liners for summer bags, both Mark and I were chilled. In the middle of the night I had put every piece of clothing on I had, attempting to ward off the nipping cold. It was no matter, I still woke several times in the night and was once again robbed of precious sleep. Sam was huddled up in his warm bag inside his one man, sleeping like a champ as we poured out of the tents to get moving in the twilight hour.
180 view of CO River from Bass Beach (click to enlarge)
Today we planned to not only ascend to the south rim, but we also planned to bag Mount Huethewali, a quick side trek right off the trail! We stirred up breakfast and once again strapped on our bags for the haul out of the canyon. They were lighter than the days before but, still weighed heavy on your shoulders knowing the hard push we had ahead of us. Secretly the ascents out of the canyon are always my favorite, and I smiled as we let out from the beautiful secluded Bass Beach!
Crawling out of the route to Bass Beach
We trekked up, gaining quickly and we were soon skirting east along the inner gorge trail headed for Bass Canyon. The River Runners were leisurely having breakfast in the morning and we waved from high above the Colorado down to their position. The morning light bathed the canyon as we ascended and soon the sun once again shined on our faces. We turned up South into Bass canyon, hiding from the light as long as we could before the bake was on.
Morning light looking west
Looking east towards Bass Canyon
Bass canyon!
We snaked our way back up the trail we had trekked on the day before. At almost every turn there was another breathtaking view of the canyon riddled in spring flowers. We soon reached the confluence of the Bass and Tonto trail, we had actually planned to camp here the night before but had decided to push all the way to the river. By this time we were all in our own heads, just taking in the sights, and pressing up the ascending trail. As we gained up further, the canyon once again gave us a break and shaded our trail. We knew this wouldn’t last long.
Bighorn sheep horn on the Cowboy fireplace we passed the day before . . . sooo cooolllll
Bass Canyon
Time to go to work!
Yucca's doing their thing!
Press into the morning light
Yucca closeup, look soo nice!
Time for the sun to go to work on us
Hello there purple fella!
Suddenly a patch of trees popped up almost out of nowhere. This signified the hard push up the switchbacks through the bush towards the sundrenched Darwin’s Plateau. Once we pushed through the trees the baking sun was on full blast, and so was the grueling ascent to the plateau. Switchback after switchback we ascended, taking in the glorious expansive views as we did. Towards the top of the climb we found a nice large boulder to have a quick rest under and replenished our tired bodies. We ran into two other backpackers going in for an eight day trek hoping to get a ride to the other side of the canyon for some cave exploration. We wished them luck and were soon strapping our bags back on and headed up.
Girnding up the Bass Canyon
Hello random trees!
Pushing through the brush
Getting closer, time to really get after the gain!
Looking back down the canyon as we ascended
Closer!
Finally being spit out the last 2 long switchbacks of Bass Canyon
Looking back down towards the trail
Sam, pressing on
Finally after a good long push, we reached the plateau and were faced with the intimidating massive beast that was Mount Huethewali. It stood far above the plateau, looking as though there were only a few class 3 lines that would go. Sam was pretty worked and decided to stay behind as Mark and myself made the push for the peak. We dropped everything except one pack with some water and let out up the steep sandstone slopes. We trekked up quickly and found a few sparse cairns. We picked our way through as we went, every time the route looked as though it were to end, we found another cairn hiding around a corner. Before we knew it we were standing atop the huge mountain whooping and hollering and taking in the 360 incredible views!
There she is, Mount Huethawali!
Closer
Closer Still
Man this thing is getting steep
closer still
lil scramble action
push on
we can do it!
sooo close
blocks towards the top!
Cairned route
Sam, doing his thing, readin a book chillin
Up up and away
fun exposure
scramble on
Mark makin moves
Blocks just before summit
Just before summit!
360 views from the top of Huethewali! Can you see Mark?(click to enlarge)
After claiming the peak, we headed back down, grabbed Sam along the way and slowly trekked our way up the remaining switchbacks to the rim of the canyon. Everyone was smiles and we stopped at the trailhead for pictures and a quick snack of whatever we had left in our packs before heading back the 3.5 mile walk on a dirt road to the car.
360 from the bottom of Heuthewali (click to enlarge)
Looking towards the final ascent
Nice trail action!
Just before reaching our truck a wild stallion quickly crossed the road. In the distance, his mare and foal were in the field across the road. He noticed us walking and neighed back to his family who quickly trotted away from us. The stallion came blistering back to the road, looked straight at us, and took a few steps towards us as if he were going to charge. Then stopped, turned, and hauled butt towards his family. Whewwww, what an awesome finish to another crazy trek in the canyon! We soon found our way back to the truck, piled in, and drove home.
Lets get moving up the final push!
Beautiful reds in the dirt, I love watching the rock change as we ascend
Food: 1 Power Bar, 1 Kroger Protien bars, 1 Cliff Protien Bars, 1 granola bar, 1/2 bag of gummyworms, Apple, 1 Mountain House: Chicken and Mashed Potatoes, 1/2 bag of Salt and Veinagr Chips, 1/2 bag of Pizza Pringles, 1/2 bag of trailmix, 1/2 bag Boston baked beans, 1 PB&J sandwich, 1/2 bag of Quinoa.
Time: 8 hours
Distance: 13 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~4354 accumulated
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Mark, ready in the morning, just thinking about the 20 miles to come!
The alarm blasted, waking me from my deep slumber. The roaring of the Colorado had actually been a soothing sound for the night, the tumultuous rush of the rapids faded into a gentle roar that eased us to sleep. I was covered in the rain fly of the tent that I decided to grab around 2am once the temps decided to plummet. The clear beaming stars were starting to fade as twilight made way for the glorious impending sunrise that would drape the canyon walls in golden sunlight. It was time to move! I pulled myself from my sleeping bag and started the morning ritual of hot coffee, breakfast and packing. This morning I had both my hoodies on as it was surprisingly brisk!
Hello there spiked friend . . . no hugs please
The grand canyon kills it every time!
The confluence of the foot trail to Elves Chasm and the route (w the 20' rap) down from Royal Arch
Light is no nice
Golden goodness!
We really had our work cut out for us as the limiter on this entire trip was the availability of water sources. We chose to camp at the CO River both night 1 and 2 to make it easy for filtering. Unfortunately this plan required a 20 mile push across the Tonto on Day 2 until we finally reached the cool and refreshing Bass Beach. The second day was forecasted to be a warm 94 degrees and we had no choice but to push through it to reach the sweet murky water of the mighty Colorado. Heat was far from our minds as Mark, Sam, and I packed up camp in the cool shade of the canyon.
Looking back west, can you see Mark and Sam?
We were soon strapping on our bags and making our last touch of the Colorado for the next 20 miles before we set out from camp. We started gaining right away climbing over sharp boulders and skirting the river on a small footpath. With a backpack on, maneuvering the trail was a bit precarious, but not too bad. Scrambling up rocks, being dumped into sandy beaches, and cairn finding seemed to be the name of the game. We trekked on, racing the sun and trying to stay in the shade as much as possible, this goal would shortly be proved near impossible however. The cactus that were trailside bloomed incredible pink and yellow colors. The flowers were out and showing their stuff!
Dry fall and Sam haha
The trail wrapped the inner basin and skirted a few unnamed canyons under large dry waterfalls. In one of the washes below the dry fall, deposits of minerals and salt pooled up where the water once stood. Mark and myself threw a finger in and tasted it! Mmmm delicious, salt, I spit the rest out not knowing what was in it. We trekked on enjoying the vast and beautiful views a few hundred feet above the river. The sun had yet to start blazing on us and we were more than grateful.
Garnette Canyon shadowed by Fiske Butte!
We trekked on, finally reaching Garnet Wash which signified the end of the Royal Arch Route and the start of the Tonto trail at its most westerly termis. After a short break in the last shade we knew we would have for a while, we pressed on. The canyon was large and open, we tracked cairns across its wash. The cairns led us to a fin ledge scramble out onto the tonto where we would be baked by the sun the rest of the day. The scrambles were chill, but fun, and we were soon blasted with both the full sun as well as gorgeous views of the powerful canyon in front of us.
Approaching the scramble up to the Tonto trail
Closer
Closer still
There the blows!
Scramble to the Tonto
We trekked on pushing through the heat for a few miles, taking in the sights as they came until finally reaching the skirt of Copper Canyon. This deep and long canyon was riddled with green rocks (oxidized copper), and green scrub everywhere. It was, of course, also a nice treat to our day. We pulled over for some much needed shade behind a boulder before pressing on once again.
Edge of Copper Canyon (click to enlarge)
Mouth of copper canyon, in we go!
Once we were spit from the mouth of copper canyon after a long skirt, we could finally see the edge of the turnoff to Bass canyon and potentially the portion of the river where we would lay our beaten feet for the night. We trekked on, under the hot sun and the miles were beginning to add up on our plumped and swollen feet. We still had work to do, so no need to complain. We pressed on trying to enjoy the views until finally we reached the cutoff for Bass Canyon. We trekked down the steep trail and were pleasantly surprised to find shade which would last the rest of the day. Whew, what a relief.
Skirting the Tonto
more skirting
and more . . . skirting . . .
Yup, thats right . . . more skirting . . . its getting a lil warm up here!
SHADE!!!! Precious shade and Bass Canyon!
Bottom of Bass Canyon!
Push north up Bass Canyon towards the CO river!
We continued to pick our way down the rough and rugged use trail until we were finally dumped into the bottom of Bass canyon. Only another 2 miles to the beach! We turned North down the canyon and the views were very different from the majority of the day. Interesting black, white, grey, red rocks were all around us. We snaked down the creek bed until finally once again we were skirting the Colorado river, only this time much lower! We saw river runners camped on a beach across the river and knew we couldn’t be far.
Bass Canyon!
Closer and Closer to the CO we come
Is that a BigHorn Sheeps horn? and Horseshoe, and old nails on a random cowboy fireplace in the middle of the canyon?! Why yes it is!
We walked the final leg of the day, tired and weary. But finally, after a short and steep switchback use trail we found ourselves at Bass beach. I could have bent down and kissed it like a lost sailor that finally reached land! We plunged ourselves in the frigid cold of the Colorado which totally revitalized our beaten feet. As the day came to a close, as we shoveled MountainHouse’s into our gullets, and thought about the next day to come. Beats being stuck at work! Another beautiful and incredible day in the Grandest of Canyons!
The sunset just before the final descent to Bass beach
Food: 1 Power Bar, 1 Kroger Protien bars, 1 Cliff Protien Bars, 1 granola bar, 1/2 bag of gummyworms, Apple, 1 Mountain House: Chicken and Mashed Potatoes, 1/2 bag of Salt and Veinagr Chips, 1/2 bag of Pizza Pringles, 1/2 bag of trailmix, 1/2 bag Boston baked beans, 1 PB&J sandwich, 1/2 bag of Quinoa.
Time: 11 hours
Distance: 20 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~1500 accumulated
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Eyes cracked open. It was cold, chilly. In a sleeping bag with a broken zipper. Alarm blasting from my phone, feeling tired after just 4.5 hrs of sleep, staring at the ceiling of a tent. Rubbing my eyes half exhausted half excited about the day to come . . . Looks like we are all set up for another sufferfest at the Grandest of Canyons! This trek brought Sam, Mark, and myself to the doorstep of the old Ranger Station above the drop-in to Royal Arch Creek via Point Huitzil. We planned to drop in, canyoneer all the way to the Colorado River at Elves Chasm, camp, traverse the Tonto trail to Bass Beach, camp, and finally hike out via Bass trail; finishing the trip off with a side trek to Mount Huethawali before closing out the loop with a nice road walk on the rim.
Old Ranger Station
I shivered in the morning, throwing all my gear in the pack, making sure all the food, water and rappelling equipment was accounted for before strapping up and standing, ready to roll. I knew that once we got moving I would warm, so I stubbornly refused to put a jacket on. We let out from the old ranger station headed on an old 4×4 “road” (more like a foot trail) in the northwest direction. After the “road” ended we found an old telegraph line which would lead us to the start of the wash that would eventually dump us into the canyon (according to research). We trekked on through a juniper speckled field which made it seem like we weren’t even hiking to the canyon. Finally the route dumped us into a wash and slowly we made our way to the edge of the rim and were blasted with a gorgeous grand view of the canyon.
Old 4×4 “road” walk
Hello there old friend! Dump into the canyon, just South of Huitzil Point
We started our way down the loose steep route, descending ledge after ledge looking for cairns as we went. The sandstone made our shoes stick like spiderman to the slanted ledges of the route. We found our first obstacle and quickly down climbed. I was fully extended in a hang when the tops of my toes landed on the stepping stone below. Whew! One down, only a ton to go! Sam and Mark quickly down climbed and we were off again. The route finding was tedious, we were skirting ledges with a beefy penalty for error. We walked toward a cairn that looked like it would lead us right off the end of a ledge. We looked right and tucked away was the crescent moon shaped rock that hid away the famous ladder climb. It was really cool, an old dead tree with branches cut for feet and handholds. I dropped down first, no issues, Sam and Mark soon followed. Just around the corner from the ladder, skirting north, we were treated with a huge panel of petroglyphs! How cool it was to be there and see something that had been there for hundreds of years!
Cairn leading right off the edge?
Ooooo whats this?
Under the crescent moon rock formation just above the ladder
Oh hello there 600 year old ladder =)
Downclimbing
Looking back at the cool crack and ladder
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
petroglyphs
We kept trekking, descending ledges, and finally found the Moki steps on a sandstone slab. The natives cut small ledges into the sandstone making some nice steps for your feet to climb up and down the slope. A little butt skirting and de-packing got us down swiftly. We continued to pick our way down the ledges and skirt across a number of exposed, but not too difficult obstacles, until finally exiting the face via an arm that dumped us into the top of the wash to Royal Arch Creek.
Moki steps (click to enlarge)
Downclimbing the Moki Steps (click to enlarge)
Let the boulder hopping begin! For the next few miles the sun went to work on us as we hopped, jumped, and scurried our way down the creek bed. Finally we came to a large pour-off (dry waterfall) which had 2 options, left to the “ledge of death”, right to the “rabbit hole” . . . “rabbit hole” just sounded too cutesy! We headed left all too curious about what this infamous obstacle had to offer. After a few minutes of skirting the side trail we finally came to the ledge. It had a nice 20 foot exposed traverse with some teared drops below that. What fun! I was first up and found that the grippy rock had some great holds and the feet weren’t that bad either! Keeping the packs on, we all traversed the obstacle with no issue! Just after the ledge, there were a few other small exposed traverses where we had to circumvent large boulders trying to push us into the canyon below. It wasn’t horrible, but deff warranted concentration with a 40lb pack on your back!
Enter the wash!
Left to “Ledge of Death” – Right to “Rabbit Hole” (click to enlarge)
Ahead is the "Ledge of Death"!
Sam found it! "Ledge of Death"
A few other butt out moments
Sam Sqqquuueeeeekkkking by!
We continued downstream, boulder hopping once again until finally the dry creek bed was wet with a beautiful spring and a small ledgy down climb. The water looked so tasty and our parched mouths were ready for a break. As we pushed further, we turned a corner, and there, standing high above our heads was the Royal Arch. What a beautiful sight, it was enormous and demanded respect! We had a nice break in the shade under the arch, next to the creek running just below the massive rock. Just taking in the sights and replenishing our grumbling stomachs.
Beautiful cool spring pool
Time lapse - Ledge downclimb past the spring
Looking back up at the spring
More beautiful runoff downstream
THE ROYAL ARCCCHHHHH!!!!
No nice and shaded creek running below the arch
OOooOOoo nice spire!
Royal Arch
Royal Arch
Royal Arch
Fed and ready for more, we walked downstream from the arch and peered over the huge cliff into the canyon below. What a drop! We were standing 170 feet above a tiered drop-off and the bed of a nice waterfall that trickled down just next to where we planned to rappel from. We found some good webbing and a quicklink that looked solid. I put up the biner block rappel setup using Sam’s 60 meter 9.8 mil rope to a carabiner with a constrictor knot. I backed it up with a figure 8 and tied on the 200 ft 6mm pulldown cord to the biner block. We were all set to go so I threw both ropes off the cliff and they fell to the second ledge. Time to go to work! I rapped first taking on the task of rope management as the small pulldown cord got quite tangled. I threw it from the first ledge down, then the next. To my relief the main rope reached the ground, and soon after, so did I! Whew, made it!
I stopped half way down the first rap to take a pic =)
Mark and Sam soon followed and we were all safely on the ground when I went to pull the pull cord I had set up. *Yank* nothing . . . *Yank* nothing . . . I started to get serious when I realized the rope could be stuck which would require me to either re-ascend the rope or we would be stuck in the canyon between two 100+ foot rappels. I reached high, grabbed a bite on the 6mm rope, tied an overhand knot, and clipped it into my harness. I sat my full weight on the rope and once I did it finally budged. I quickly walked back away from the cliff pulling the rope as I did to make sure it didn’t get hung again. LUCKY!!!!! I was so relieved!
Timelapse of Mark rappelling down the 170 ft waterfall
Once we retrieved both ropes and recollected our wits we headed downstream to find the second of the big rappels, a 135 foot cliff. This time our anchor was a nice tree with 3 sets of webbing wrapped around it. Another nice anchor that we could use! This rap went much smoother and was almost completely free hanging. We each made our way down the rope and into the next section of the beautiful canyon. Waterfalls and lush green plants were abound. Frogs darted this way and that in the pools as we trekked through, it was truly a hidden paradise!
The 2nd rappel – 135 foot
Soon after the second rappel we found a nice 8-10 foot downclimb. We pulled our packs off and hurdled the obstacle before strapping up once again and letting out further down the canyon. We dodged boulders, down climbed ledges picked our way slowly down. I popped my head over a huge boulder, the only down climb led to water . . . “that can’t be right”, I thought. I poked left, poked right and finally found a small tree on canyon right with a small 20ft rap. In hindsight, we found that we were on the wrong side of the canyon and should have belly crawled a ledge on the the west side of the canyon . . . Oh well! After placing some new webbing and breaking our rope and harnesses out once again, we made the last rap of the day.
Donw the canyon we go!
Waterfalls galore!
Another beautiful section of canyon
Downclimb city!
Lush, green, cool, crisp, crystal pool of goodness
Another downclimb
Over Elves
The River, finally!
Oh the ledgy downclimbs arent done yet!
Ledges!
Elves Chasm!
Elves Chasm!! Jumped into the cool pools here, how refreshing and cold as hell!
We enjoyed the rest of the canyon as we trekked on. Down climbing, shimmying over boulders and down ledges, using cairns to guide our way, until we finally reached Elves Chasm. It was a tiered waterfall with a deep crystal clear pool at the bottom. We decided to strip down and jump in; after the long exhausting day we had, it seemed like the right thing to do! After jumping from the waterfall and pulling ourselves from the cold water we trekked the rest of the way to a permissible beach where we set up camp, grubbed down, and finally, under the star lite sky, crashed out in our flyless tents. What an epic day, man I love the Grand Canyon!
ADDITIONAL PICTURES:
Enter the petroglyph panel!
Sandstone formaitons
OOoooo looks green and juicy!
Sandstone transverse
Wash!
More Wash
Tadpoles in the wash
More wash
dragonflys getting it on in the wash
peering down the ladder hole under the crescent moon
Food: 1 Power Bar, 1 Kroger Protien bars, 1 Cliff Protien Bars, 1 granola bar, 1/2 bag of gummyworms, Apple, 1 Mountain House: Chicken and Mashed Potatoes, 1/2 bag of Salt and Veinagr Chips, 1/2 bag of Pizza Pringles, 1/2 bag of trailmix, 1/2 bag Boston baked beans, 1 PB&J sandwich, 1/2 bag of Quinoa.
Time: 12 hours
Distance: 11 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~ Drop 4000 feet
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Alarm blasting, gahhh! We almost slept nine glorious hours in our fly-less tents. The temps were perfect for camping and star gazing. However, even nine hours of sleep didn’t seem like enough time to fully recover from our exhaustion the day prior. With a whole lot of work to go, we peeled ourselves from our sleeping bags and got breakfast rolling. Within an hour, we were all upright with packs on, ready to take on Cheops Pyramid. Even though it looked sketchier than the plateau, trip reports said it was supposed to be pretty chill Class 3 climbing.
Side view of Cheops Pyramid and Plateau
We trekked out from camp once again, and we all knew it was going to be one long day, but hopefully a good one! We picked up the Utah Flats use trail and began hiking north once again. However, after a quarter mile or so, we left the trail and made a B line across the open desert towards the eastern wall of the Cheops Plateau. Looking like a battleship in ram mode, we covered the terrain, boulder hopping, kicking up off camber dust, and slowly picking our way towards the huge face in front of us.
Skirting towards the pyramid
We had to circumvent large sandstone dry waterfalls that would easily spell utter tragedy with one misstep. We hiked on, splitting up and rejoining, all trying to find the best way across the steep slopes on the eastern side of Cheops Plateau. Rene and myself went high while Mark and Kari stayed low. We continued to skirt the slopes and we all met up at the start of the Cheops Pyramid scramble searching for any sign of shade we could find. The sun had already started to go to work on us, warming our hat shaded faces. We sat down at the base of the climb for a quick snack and water break.
perfect little triangle rock =)
We chatted about the climb the day before and we were all curious as to what was in store for us. Soon we picked up our packs and set off again, headed up and left to circumvent a small vertical face. We encountered our first climb, which seemed a bit more difficult than described, but it went quickly. Route finding and cairn searching were back in full swing as we pressed up the face attempting to find the best way up. Some of the ledges ahead looked impossible without rope at first glance, but with a closer look we found the line, and a few faint cairns.
Rene scopes the climb
Push on!
Another ledge
Team pushes on
Push on!
Rene trekkin out front
Ledges
Ledges
Getting closer
Almost there
We ascended the next ledge and headed up and out left towards a small exposed arête. “This thing was supposed to be all chill Class 3, right?!” I thought to myself. I got on another small climb with questionable rock towards the top and just made it happen. The down climb was future Mike’s problem! We all took a quick breather and looked towards the peak, it was only 50 feet away, and once we noticed it there was no more need to break! We moved swiftly up the chossy rock and soon we were all, once again, simultaneously touching the top of Cheops Pyramid!
There is the peak!
Summit! (click to enlarge)
Man what a view! The Grand Canyon is such a beautiful place, the 360 degree view that we had the privilege of enjoying was nothing less than spectacular! I once again walked towards the bridge that connects Cheops Pyramid to Cheops Plateau to have a look, and once again it seemed like such a tough undertaking. All of the rock on the bridge looked chossy and the route looked hard to protect with gear; not undoable, but it would require a full level of commitment to a climb of questionable quality.
Looking towards the Cheops Plateau from Cheops Pyramid
After signing the registry, we regrouped and picked our way back to camp. It always seems to be easier on the down climb, you see a line you didn’t before, or an easier way to take on the obstacles. This climb was no different, the seemingly tough Class 3 climbs lost their bite (except for the rocks, they were sharp as hell!) as we descended. The slog back to camp was a good long one. We finally got back to Utah Flats, packed things up, and divvied up our remaining water to get ready for the steep and loose descent back to Phantom Ranch.
staking his claim!
After descending the sun baked steep and loose Utah Flats trail, we were soon sitting at the Phantom Ranch cantina with a cool Arnold Palmer in hand. We were all trying not to think about the nine miles and 4600 feet of elevation gain that stood between us and Bright Angel Lodge.
Coming back down from Cheops
Old school bottle we found on the traverse back from Cheops, we aren't the first explorers here that's for sure!
High tailing it our of Phantom Ranch
Oooo look the beach!
Skirting riverside up Bright Angel trail from the Silver Bridge
Looking up the canyon heading up Bright Angel
A spring feeds some gorgeous lush green plants at this small waterfall
Time to get some gain!
Press on baby!
Breaking right at Indian Gardens before the final push out
Found a Tick on me!!! Holy wow, first time ive seen one in the desert, weird lookin guy!
Half way out the Bright Angel trail as the sun set, how beautiful it is here!
Finally, around 2:30pm, we geared up, threw our packs on, and started our walk out on Bright Angel Trail. On every switchback that turned our gaze back to the North Rim I took a moment to look at all of the buttes, temples, and massive formations sticking above the canyon floor. It’s like inception; you may never have noticed them before, but once you know them by name, and attempt to climb them, you can never forget their existence. The Grand Canyon is an incredible place. I love it here.
Skirting towards the pyramid
Turning the corner before the ascent of the pyramid from the south
Oooo look a bottle!
Found a the only watering hole in the area!
Cool small throughhole
Well hello there fella
Skirt skirt skirt
Kari, contemplating the Canyon and why he hadnt been here sooner hahahaha
Weather: Hi in upper 80s, Low in upper 40s, Sunny/Partially Cloudy
Water: 4.5 Liters
Food: 1/2 avocado, 1 Power Bar, 1 Kroger Protien bars, 1 Cliff Protien Bars, 1 granola bar, 1/2 bag of gummyworms, Orange, 1 Mountain House: biscuites and Gravy, 1/2 bag of Salt and Veinagr Chips, 1/2 bag of Pizza Pringles, 1/2 bag of trailmix.
Time: 12 hours
Distance: 14 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~6500 feet
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Looking down South Kaibab at O’neill Butte (click to enlarge)
We woke to 30°F temps on the South Rim. Mark, Kari and I were stuffed into Mark’s tent and Rene was cozy in the bed of his truck. We had another “bum rush” weekend on our hands; we drove up the night before the trek, camped for the night, and would catch the 8 a.m. bus from the Bright Angel lodge to the South Kaibab Trailhead where we would dump into the Grand Canyon to start our weekend adventure. The target was Cheops Pyramid and Cheops Plateau, both standing over 5000 feet in elevation and located in the heart of the Grand Canyon. We would trek in, camp at the base of Cheops Plateau, summit the Plateau on the first day and summit the pyramid on the second day. After summiting Cheops Pyramid, we would then hike out of the Grand Canyon for the long car ride home on Sunday night. Needless to say we had our work cut out for us!
O’neill Butte
Looking at the confluence of the CO river and the canyon that houses Bright Angel Creek, Phantom Ranch, and of course the North Kaibab trail
After getting our gear together, we parked the truck and caught the Hiker Express shuttle bus to the South Kaibab Trailhead. Next thing you know it, we were standing on the edge of the south rim looking at the daunting task we signed ourselves up for. Everyone was excited and in high spirits and we took off down the South Kaibab trail. There were quite a few people already trekking down the trail. We pressed on, pausing briefly for pictures and to peel off jackets as the sun hit us and temperatures began to rise. By the time we got down to Phantom Ranch, it was nice and toasty outside. We hit the water supply there and gained a good 16 pounds from loading up on 6-8 liters a piece. Weighted down and ready for the grind out of Phantom Ranch we headed back towards the small aluminum footbridge that brought us to the start of the Utah Flats Route.
Pushing up Utah Flats out of Phantom Ranch
The route was rarely traveled and started out with some wicked elevation gain. Full 40 pound packs pulled us down and wrenched on our backs as we gained elevation in the hottest part of the day. Pushing on and up the loose trail we were all breathing hard, dripping sweat, redlining our pumping hearts, and just trying to hold on under the blazing suns heat. We found a nice shaded boulder on the way up and decided to pull off for a quick rest. Mark piped up “Man, I’m getting hammered dude!”. We were all pretty fried from the quick ascent, but after some much needed shade and rest, we regained our spirits and pushed on. Soon we were out on the Utah Flats plateau above looking at the east side cliff faces of our targets; Cheops Pyramid and Cheops Plateau. Both magnificent Cheops landmarks looked beastly and dicey.
The notch to the mesa above awaits!
Looking back down Piano Alley, the bouldery crack just below the mesa where we planned to camp
After searching around for quite a while, we found one of the few flat spots that wasn’t infested with cacti and threw our gear down. After setting up the tents and whittling down our packs to just day hike mode, we took off towards the North Ridge of the Cheops Plateau. We picked up a small use trail that skirted the north side of the huge plateau. We could see bright green trees drinking from the cool waters of Phantom Creek which we heard flowing in the distance. The wind finally picked up and we got our first taste of cool air for the day. What a relief!
Finally up on top of the mesa! Temples: Cheops, Isis, Budda, Brahma, and Zoroaster in sight (click to enlarge)
Approaching the north side of Cheops (click to enlarge)
Approaching the north side of Cheops (click to enlarge)
We kept trekking on the Utah Flats Route until the North Ridge of Cheops came into view. It looked pretty intimidating from below, but like many daunting obstacles, things seem to become more doable the closer you get. We pressed up the steep loose slopes on the northeast side of Cheops until finally reaching the vertical cliff face of the plateau. Paralleling the cliff wall, we headed North along a faint use trail at a much faster pace than we had on the unforgiving slopes below. Finally, we reached the toe in point on the North Ridge of Cheops. I was excited to start climbing straight up! From our research, it seemed as though it was pretty chill except for one exposed Class 4 move just below the top of the plateau. Looking up at the rock face in front of us, the terrain looked anything but trivial. In usual fashion we slowly began picking away at it.
Ascenting the north side of Cheops, getting close to the wall before the skirt northwest to along the rockface face to the tail of Cheops (most northern arete of Cheops)
lets go to work!
lets go to work!
another ledgy ascent
more ledges
Kari coming over a lip, Isis Temple in the backdrop
Mark coming over a lip, Isis Temple in the backdrop
Work still isnt done!
getting closer
Mark, Kari, Rene Scramble on!
Seeing the exposed C3/4 crux from a far
C3/4 exposed crux up on the left
Just past the crux, just the bridge remaining
the bridge!
finally plateau topout!!
I headed up and soon Kari, Mark, and Rene followed. It was time to turn the lizard brain on. Our focus shifted solely to the hands, feet, and the best holds we could find. We cruised up the first few ledges. I poked my head around the face on both sides of the ridge to find the best line and took the path of least resistance. There was a small climb over black rock that I actually had to use a little body manipulation to get up. So much for the route being Class 3! We continued on. Mark, who was following closely behind me nervously awaited the moment when we would come face to face with the crux of the route. Soon I found the spot that most trip logs mention. There was a significant dropoff to the left, but the hand holds were great. The feet placements weren’t as good but they were a heck of a lot better than I thought they would be. Lets go! All four of us cruised through the crux with zero issues! “Hell yes!” I patted Mark on the back who out of the group said he was the most nervous about the route (He cruised it like a champ). We pushed on, carefully up and over a natural arch (which was a bit delicate to say the least) until finally we were standing on the much more tame and stable Cheops Plateau!
Looking down on the Cheops Pyramid from the plateau (click to enlarge)
We all took the opportunity to relax knowing we would have a little time before having to head back down. We all walked to the highest point on the plateau and simultaneously touched the top before signing the summit registry in the ammo box with huge grins on our faces. Man what a day, but it was far from over! We walked to the southern end of the plateau to check out the crumbling bridge connecting the Cheops Plateau and the Cheops Pyramid that we had plans to summit the next day. I scrambled down to get a closer look at the rotten beast of a bridge. There were two large discontinuities in the knife-edge bridge and the rock quality was absolute crap. It’s not that it couldn’t be done, it would just require adequate gear, willingness to assume a great deal of risk, and nerves of steel to complete the task.
Kari, Mark, and Rene walking the bridge! (click to enlarge)
Looking back down into Phantom Canyon as the sun sets (click to enlarge)
Watching the sun dip below the horizon as we descended the Cheops plateau climb
After taking it all in we turned back, retraced our steps and soon found ourselves back at camp licking our wounds. We made dinner, and prepared to crash for the night before waking up to have a go at Cheops Pyramid the next day!
Dropping down South Kaibab
Descending South Kaibab
Phantom Ranch!
Crossing the footbridge to the start of Utah Flats
Exceeding Utah Flats
Keep pushing!
Ascending Utah Flats, looking back at Phantom Ranch South
Ascending Utah Flats, looking back at Phantom Ranch North
Ascending Utah Flats, looking back at Phantom Ranch West
Ascending the north side of Cheops Plateau (can you see Kari?!)
Food: 1 Power Bar, 1 Kroger Protien bars, 1 Cliff Protien Bars, 1 granola bar, 1/2 bag of gummyworms, Orange, 1 Mountain House: Chicken and Mashed Potatoes, 1/2 bag of Salt and Veinagr Chips, 1/2 bag of Pizza Pringles, 1/2 bag of trailmix.
Time: 12 hours
Distance: 14 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~3200 feet
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
My eyes popped open. No alarm had sounded, the twilight was starting to open up in the sky. I jumped up frantically searching for my phone; it was dead as a doornail. The 10 degree temps had helped to suck whatever battery I had left and I had overslept almost an hour. I jumped up, threw on my hiking clothes, and stuffed my bag with food for the day. There was no time for coffee or a warm breakfast…I needed to finish my hike and drive back to Phoenix for work the next day. I pulled on my jacket and ski mask and let out on the trail.
The air was chilly and a few people hung about at the start of the hike, taking pictures of the sunrise. Once I passed them, there was no one else. No birds, no people, no sounds… just me and the canyon and the snow. The snow was a good 12 inches deep at the beginning of the trail. I had my microspikes on, so I trudged through the snow knowing that once I dropped low enough, it would give way to rocks and dirt again. What a peaceful sight, the canyon undisturbed in the fresh fallen snow.
mmmm snow baby!
leaving the switchbacks and heading out on the skirting arm that would lead me to Horseshoe Mesa
The trail was steep and I quickly descended through the switchbacks on the south rim cliff. I soon skirted the arm that jetted out to meet horseshoe mesa where the most padded part of Grandview trail ended. I broke out of the shade and the sun warmed me, so I pulled off the ski mask and hoody and trekked the bridge to the mesa. As I neared the Horseshoe I noticed a sign to the right that stated that there was radioactive area nearby, the sign read “Do not enter”. Hmmm . . . I highly doubted there was actually radioactive material in there, but I knew the sign served as a deterrent to keep people out of the Last Chance Mine (founded in 1890 by Pete Berry when copper was discovered there) and it was not on my list of things to do so I trekked on.
The snow finally gave up!
uhhhhhh where my geiger counter?
Foundation of an old miners house
I found the mesa and the remaining foundation of what I could only imagine was a miner’s house. After a short pause and some pictures I kept trekking north. Eventually I came to a seldom used trail that went directly west. I heard that the only cave in the canyon that didn’t require a special permit was located there. I figured “why not, let’s check it out” and took the trail. Soon after the trail had walked all the way to the edge and off the west side of the cliff I found Cave of the Domes.
Rounding the corner to the Cave of the Domes
Entrance to Cave of the Domes
Cove of the Domes Registry
Looking back at the entrance
MMMmmm how cool are rocks?!
Like Rome, columns out front!
Looking up at bacon and curtains
More columns!
Popcorn stalagtites anyone?!
There I found a small entry to the cave. Sporting my headlamp and camera, I entered. The cave was much warmer, probably mid 50’s compared to low 40’s outside. It was also dusty and the air was a bit stagnant. I searched around and found the typical formations, stalactite and stalagmites, but also found some bacon, popcorn…a little bit of everything. I poked around the main chamber of the cove, trying to look down all the legs of the cave. I found quite a few that undoubtedly went further into the ground, warranting further exploration. Curiosity began to rear its head, but I quickly squashed the idea. I didn’t have much time, and the cave was not my primary goal of the trek. I was already breaking quite a few caving rules (running solo, with only 2 sources of light, and no helmet), so I thought it best to move on and come back another time. I emerged from the cave the same way I entered and was soon back on the trail headed towards the river.
Looking back towards the rim from Horseshoe Mesa
Getting closer to Tonto Trail, dumping off Horseshoe Mesa
I dumped off the front side of the Horseshoe Mesa, tying into the Tonto trail skirting west towards the Old Grandview trail. The trail down from the mesa was quite different that the beaten trail above. It was much more sparse and I had to follow cairns until finally reaching Tonto. By this time the temps were perfect… still chilly, but just right while moving with some sun on me. I rounded a corner and saw my first sign of life. A pack of small brown birds erupted in flight, all chirping and fluttering. It was such a nice day. The Tonto trail moved quickly and I pushed on passing Cottonwood creek, which to my surprise was running. It seemed like a little oasis. I could see some lush green foliage clinging to life near the small creek.
Turning the bend, skirting on the Tonto Trail
Cottonwood creek, slightly flowing
The Tonto snaked back and forth in and out of canyons until I finally reached a large cairn signifying the Old Grandview Trail. I looked down at the inner gorge in awe. The rock here was hard and impenetrable, which is why there are only a very few trails that lead all the way to the river as the rocks offered a type of protection. Skeptical of the difficulty, I cautiously proceeded down the steep embankment which dropped down to the river with 1,200 foot drop in just under half a mile. “Oh look a cairn!” I thought as I descended, and I was very surprised how good the trail was. Another cairn, and another, “Man this isn’t nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be” I thought as I pushed on. I found myself climbing over the first notch into a shadowed wash, everything was pretty smooth. I passed the second notch and entered the final wash which would take me all the way to the river. A little loose but very doable, and I hardly had to use my hand.
Inner gorge, man I have so much further to drop, it looked impenetrable from where I stood!
River and the inner gorge
Pushing down the slot that would lead me to the river
Soon enough I found myself sitting on the beach of the Colorado River. The water was murky, but powerful and cold as hell! The Colorado is always an impressive sight. I sat, ate a snack and had a nice break before finally packing up and heading back out. On the trek out I decided to take the Cottonwood Creek trail and I wasn’t disappointed. There weren ample opportunities to camp creekside, which was shaded by the namesake cottonwood trees that lined the edge. The gain was good, but it secretly became my favorite part of any trip. I pushed hard and trekked at a good clip. It was just me, so no one to catch up to or wait on. Sometimes it’s nice to have a little 1-on-1 time with the canyon. I finally pushed out and ascended the last snowy switches to find a few people at the trailhead taking in the view and taking pictures with their families. Another trek successfully completed. Man I love the canyon! I hope you will get the chance to see it too, trek on!
Sitting on the beach at the Colorado river (180 degree view)
Heading up Cottonwood Creek
Snow?! Heck yes, gotta love that golden light!
Down Dow down we go!
Walk the plank?!
Cottonwood cutoff
Looking out from one of the washes leading to the CO river
We got this!
Oh thats a long way down!
Heading out the cottonwood canyon looking up at the Cave of the DOmes entrance from below
Coming out of the cottonwook canyon, linking back up to Horseshoe Mesa
Food: Snickers, 2 Cliff Builder Protien Bars, 2 Kroger Protien Bars, 1 apple, 1 bag of jerky, bag of salt and vennigar chips, 1 bag of cheetos, 2 granola bars, 1 bag of neon sour gummy worms
The morning light shined through the windows as Kari and I stirred in our sleeping bags in the back of the van. There were no signs of life from Sam and Sri in the tent outside, and after the long drive the night before, no one seemed to be in the mood to get going. I sat up and looked to the west to see a massive beast staring back at me. Baboquivari is an iconic feature in Southern Arizona, and it has a lot of history for the Tohono O’odam people. They believed that their creator, I’itoi, lives in a cave beneath the mountain and that this place was the origin of all people in the world after the Great Flood.
Welp we came this far, miles well pack up and go for it!
The beastly intimidating mountain had been on my radar for some time and despite my laziness to get moving, I was eager to take on this awesome backcountry climb. We finally peeled ourselves from our sleeping bags, got ready for the day. Cooking breakfast and going through the gear was the normal ritual as we got ready to roll. We took a short creek-covered drive to a metal gate that marked where the adventure began.
Lets get moving!
Well hello there ranch!
We let out on the dirt road headed towards the saddle on the north side of Baboquivari. We approached an old house that looked decently maintained, which marked the end of the dirt road and the start of the single track. We pressed on, following the sparse trail until it disappeared. We backtracked slightly, found a cairn and continued to hop back and forth across a creek headed upstream. The bushwhack became hardy. On the edges of the creek awaited catclaw and for Sam and myself, who chose to wear shorts, we were in for some “fun”! We pressed on, reading the land and picking up a sporadic trail, until finally we finally reached the saddle. What a push!
Just a small taste of the bushwhack
Looking back at Babo from the saddle to the North/east
We took a nice, good break here where we decided to drop some packs and get partially geared up. We were all tired form the push and with the late start I began to question whether we would finish the climb before nightfall. Little did we know, we would not get back to the van until almost midnight. Following the description in the guide, we began skirting the east face of Babo. From the slopes below it was very unclear how we would traverse to the start of the climb. We hugged the rockface away from the exposed cliffs below, until finally the rock give way to the Lions Ledge, which was our gateway to the base of the climb. We skirted the vegetated ledge, where we once again found ourselves bushwhacking. This time not against catclaw, but now against pine and holly bush.
Lions Ledge skirt
Lions Ledge skirt
Lions Ledge skirt
Lions Ledge skirt
Lions Ledge skirt
Lions Ledge skirt
Lions Ledge crawl
Looking at the traverse of the Lions ledge as we get closer, Just follow the vegetation!!
Kari, scoping a dropoff below as we came around an arete to actually get on the Lions Ledge. Follow the vegetation!
Finally, like being birthed from a thorn-filled tunnel, we popped out at the base of the 6-pitch Southeast arête (5.6)that we planned for the day. Finally! We made the short scramble up the low Class 4 chimney and geared up at the base of the first pitch (P1). We would climb in pairs of 2. I would lead, while Sri would clean. Afterward Kari would lead, while Sam followed him up the rear to clean the gear. The first pitch was pretty straight forward, but I quickly noticed the quality of the rock wasn’t the best (typical of many backcountry climbs). I banged on the holds to make sure they would hold my weight, and I only had to throw a few pieces of protection (pro) in before reaching the top of P1.
180 View to the south from the start of the class 4 scramble to the start of pitch 1 (P1)
Kari and Sam starting up the Class 4 section to the start of Pitch 1 (P1)
After setting up the anchor, I belayed Sri up P1 and soon saw his gleaming grin as he reached the top. What a fun climb! We swapped gear and I started off on P2 soon after Kari arrived to belay. The first move was an awkward high foot with decent holds, but full-on commit. After the move I quickly found good pro placement and cruised the rest. I was tossed out into a Class 4 scramble and pushed up through a shady tree through a “V” past a cactus (watch you hand!), where I combined both P2 and P3 and set up the anchor for the next push. Here I greeted a group climbing ahead of us, and we chatted for a bit. Apparently (as the other team informed me) the west approach had a much better road and hike to get to the base of the climb (hindsight is 20/20!).
Sri, grinning as he ascends Pitch 1 (P1)
Start of Pitch 2 (P2)
Once Sri ascended P2 and P3, again with a big grin on his face, I set out on P4 all geared up to go for it. I started up the left crack system then realized I needed to be in the right, I down-climbed a few feet and went climber’s right into the correct crack system. On the way up I encountered another strange move – a high right hand and solid right foot. I threw a high left foot onto a small ledge and went to stand for a left hand. Once I put full weight onto the left foot, it blew off the rock. All my weight, including the weight of the backpack and gear I was wearing went onto my right arm. I heard the sound of velcro in my right shoulder and the instant pain, I knew right then I was hurt.
Looking up at P3 as the last climber of the group ahead of us ascended
I was still hanging by my right hand while I managed to get a cam in. I rested for a moment, but decided to finish what I started in leading P4 of the climb. Once I reached the top, I belayed Sri in pain and tried to minimize the use of my right arm until he once again reached me. No one really knew the extent of the damage I had done, not even me. I decided to switch it up, ask Kari to lead on, then I would follow. He left the safety of the ledge where I belayed him traversing climbers left to find an old rusty bolt, and the start of P5.
Looking out as I belayed from the top of P4 start of P5
Looking up the fun layback of P5
We cleaned the layback P5 quickly, which everyone agreed was a lot of fun. I was just wanting to make sure I could still finish the climb, so I had to be as safe as possible as I climbed up. Kari grinned as I popped over the ledge while he was sitting under a nice pine belaying me. Sam was soon to follow, and finally we all met at the belay station. I decided to press on, finding the small notch to down-climb, before starting the final pitch (P6), which comprised a small 20 foot face climb and scrambling to the peak.
Sam ascending P5, crushing!
Looking up the 20′ climb of P6 to the short scramble to the summit
Looking down P6 as Kari, Sam, and Sri ascended and the sun fell
I felt like everyone was in pretty good spirits, and after some quick scrambling, we simultaneously touched the highest rock on the mountain! Finally!!! The sun was setting in the distance and the views of the desert below were absolutely incredible! We were far from done for the day, and had to do our best to find the descent route before all the light of the day disappeared. Attempting to find bolts in the dark on slabby slopes, where one false move means death, is never easy. We all left our offerings to I’itoi as it is tradition to bring an offering to the peak for the Tohono’s creator.
SUMMIT!!!!
Gorgeous sunset views!
360 view
Smiling and dirty we pushed down the north side of the mountain to find 3 rappels in the dark and a long bushwhack-filled walk/scramble back to the van. We reached the van around 11:20pm, and were glad that we all came back safe. We set up, grubbed down, and were soon all back in our sleeping bags, where we started the morning. Even with the shoulder pain and the worsening swirling thoughts of possibly never being able to regain full functionality, I decided to just let it be, hope for the best, and go to sleep. I will never give up the mountains, even if I’m reduced to painting them in a wheelchair one day, I will still be drawn to these places. Craving the experience and the adventure. What another great adventure!
Descending the North side of Babo, one small patch of ice remains in the route
Looking down at the fields of grass on our bushwhack ascent
Babo as we climbed up the bushwhack slopes from the East
Looking up P6 from the scramble after P5
Kari, crawling his way into a cave to avoid the brush on the Lions ledge
Spring about half way up the Lions Ledge, thirsty?!
Babo the next morning after we summited, looking ominous and angry!
beautiful cool creek on the ascent
Well hello there little fella
Snake in the grass, can you see him?!
The boys grinding up the approach slog
Snail shell! So cool! (dont mind my ash covered hobbit hands)
Kari looking up at P6 from the downclimb after P5.
Food: 2 Cliff bar, 1 orange, 2 Cliff builder bars, 2 Kroger protien bars, 2 Nature Valley Granola bars, 1 bag of gummy worms, 1 bag of mediterranian chips, 1 bag trialmix
Time: 14 hours
Distance: 8 miles RT
Accumulated Gain: 3,500 feet ( 700 feet of gain on the Climb)
Pie Rock up on the ridgeline, a little preview of whats to come!
The Phoenix air was cool and brisk as I walked out the front door to meet Sam, Matt, and Mark to start the days trek. We threw our gear and ourselves into Sam’s 4Runner, ready to head towards the Supes in search for another adventure. It had been raining the last few weekends, which cut the option of rock climbing out, so instead we decided to do a nice hike/scramble to make up for it. The target for the day was Battleship Mountain in the Superstition Mountains. This route had been on my ‘to do’ list for quite some time, due to its “scramble” and position as a prominent feature of the Superstitions wilderness.
Trailhead! Time to get moving!
Watching the sun rise over standing water, man I love the Supes
We headed to the trail-head, coffee in hands, chatting about the previous treks and what brought us all to Phoenix. The drive flew by and before we knew it, the car doors swung open, hoodies were zipped up, we were ready to put feet to trail. The sun was rising as we set out, but not quite over the mountains to our east yet. The golden haze filled the valley as we trekked forward. With all the rain, the Supes were alive with lush green color. We trekked the relatively easy rolling trail 236 through the Garden Valley. Golden sun, great views of the snow covered Tonto Mountains to the north, and the live breathing desert around us. What more could you want?!
Agua in the desert, that’s right!
The trail was muddy in places, but as we hiked on the padded trail went from smooth to baby ankle buster boulders. We continued downhill until finally reaching the junction with trail 103 which wasn’t a trail at all, it was a raging creek! Undoubtedly, this was a byproduct of the weeks’ worth of rain. Green grass on the creek edge laid flat as a pancake as a tribute to the powerful flows rolling through just days before. We followed the trail to the southeast. Hopping from boulder to boulder, we attempted to stay dry.
So much water here, this small creek was a tributary to the Boulder Creek raging below
The creek was raging, covering the trail, along Boulder Canyon
The temps were still cold, so I was like a cat on the edge of a pool, using all my will to stay dry. Mark and I crossed the river early where Sam and Matt decided to stay on the west side for some time. Almost to the other side I heard a large plop behind me. I turn to find Mark with his leg in a cascading waterfall up to his knee. A large rock had shifted (and not in his favor) plunging him into the creek. “Whelp there went that!” He trudged the rest of the creek without a care of being wet anymore. We made it to the other side and continued to find our way up the bank. Sam and Matt did the same, hopping from rock to rock until we all finally met back up further upstream. There was a good half mile of this silliness before we finally reached our turnoff: the end of the spine of Battleship Mountain.
Neon green padded goodness, trialside near the running creek
Happy to see a cairn or two headed uphill, and we got after it. We split from the creek and started to gain the ridgeline. I was tired of boulder hopping, and looked forward to the view of the surrounding area so the climb was much welcomed. We got made our way up the rock, and soon with hearts pumping and heavy breaths we gained the spine. We followed the cairns towards the head of the ridge-line and the summit. We would walk the ridge in some places, then get kicked off to the west in a small goat trail that bypassed a cliffed out ridge walk.
180 view from the ridgeline (click to enlarge)
One of the small climbs
We pressed on to the first of three small climbs. After a short deliberation, we gained the face quickly and kept trekking towards the peak. The views were fantastic! The Supes were so green and alive. From the ridge of Battleship, you could see for miles, including the water that was everywhere. Canyon Lake, Weavers Needle, Flatiron, the Superstitions in all their glory! We paused looking at all the different formations surrounding us. The sights inspired fascination as to how they were formed and changed over time. Everyone was in good spirits and even some of the exposed scrambles didn’t seem to faze anyone in the group. Perhaps we were all too busy chatting and taking in the sights to notice.
Peak is in sight, Matt leads on
After some good trail finding and a few scrambles, we found ourselves standing at the peak, simultaneously touching the highest rock with grins on our faces. We signed the registry, had a snack, and chilled for a while just taking it all in. It was so nice to be out there, amongst the rocks with some good dudes on a beautiful Saturday.
View from the summit, across the ridge back towards Weavers Needle
We turned back towards the trail-head and marched back the way we came. This time we had a little less regard for the cold of the creek and a few of us trudged right through. Mark and I couldn’t resist the 40 degree temptation at a neck deep pool on the trek back, so decided to get our Polar Plunge on. It’s definitely one way to wake up! Afterwards, we trekked our soggy selves back to the trail-head. Dried by arrival, we jumped in Sam’s 4Runner and headed back to Phoenix with another good story to tell in our pockets!
Lets get moving!
Hello green goodness!!
First views of Battleship Mountian
Oh look there is Weavers!
Small cave at the base of the start pf the first climb on the ridge
Summit in sight!
Looking back towards the towering beasts!
There she is!
Look what I found (Matt)
Morning View
Wet Boulder Canyon baby!
So nice out here!
Well hello there little fuzzy hugable friend . . . oh wait you don't wanna be friends after all
Mist covered road in the thick woods headed towards the trailhead
Alarm blasting, the sun was just beginning to rise and I was shivering in my sleeping bag. I put on my sweatpants and tried to get warm. I was parked up on Bald Hills Road, a ridgeline overlooking the Redwood National Park. Down in the bottom of the valley below, far from my eyes or ears, the Redwood Creek raged, giving much needed nourishment to the tallest trees in the world. The sun rose over the valley which was soaked in a fog that sat like a blanket over the riverbed. It was an incredible sight to see.
Morning fog rolling over the road headed towards the trailhead
Despite the cold, I grabbed my things and started moving. I suited up with the normal cold weather gear…wool socks, pants, boots, and a wool long sleeve shirt. After layering up and kicking my stove on to cook a little oatmeal and coffee, I finally started to thaw. I had never been to this part of CA before, but shooting from the hip with what limited information I had and a little luck I found one of the best hikes in the entire park! I finished packing and, with the van warm, headed down the road a few miles from where I camped to the actual trailhead.
View of the valley below from the trailhead
More views of the sunrise and fog in the valley below
The air was brisk. I strapped up and took a few shots of the sunrise and the valley below, still in awe as I stepped foot onto the trail. An open prairie led me to a small thicket of trees. I noshed on my Cliff bar as I trekked, amazed how green everything was. High on the ridge there weren’t any redwoods yet, only a few pines and firs. I dove down through the thicket of trees before getting spit back onto the prairie and eventually onto a forest road. I followed the forest road for a short jaunt before once again being tossed downward into another thicket of trees towards the bottom of the valley. Gorgeous view after gorgeous view rolled by and I hadn’t even reached a mile in.
OOoooooo whats that?!
View inside the 100 year old barn
Open prairie, barn on the felt, foggy valley below all bathed in the sunlight
The trees themselves had their own beauty. The canopy was so thick I couldn’t see through in some areas, and only small beams of light would snake through to make it through to the forest floor… it was magnificent. At the end of the next thicket I emerged to an open field faced with a 100 year old barn. It was called the Dolason barn, built in 1914 on the Sherman Lyons-Ranch where sheep were herded to feed on the surrounding hayfield meadows. After all the years of battling the elements, it still stood strong as an ox. I paused to take it in with the sun rising over the foggy valley below.
Pushing through the woods back into the prairie
The trail once again entered the woods, and dark and deep it was. The high canopies blocked out all sunlight, with only a faint glow coming through to guide me down the trail. I pushed along the vacant trail…it was just me and the woods, the ferns, and the dew. The tall redwoods finally came into sight, littered amongst the others, and I was really into the tall beasts. The woods were eerily quiet as I hiked further down, and I realized after some time that I was down in the fog I had admired that morning. I pressed on until I came across a bridge not far from the Tall Trees trailhead which would lead me to the river. The sign read “Emerald Creek”, and immediately the song “10,000 Emerald Pools” popped into my head. Why not, it accompanied me the rest of the way to the Tall Trees trail head.
Nice sign!
Looking up at giants!
Emerald Creek bridge
There was only one car in the parking lot and an older fella with a handlebar mustache was sitting in the front seat getting his things together. I waved and headed down the trail. Although the trail was only one canyon over from Emerald Creek, it seemed much wetter. Everything had dew on it, which only amplified how lush and green it all looked. Small creeks trickled across the trail, moss clung to everything from rocks to trees, and ferns covered the forest floor…it was truly a different kind of paradise.
lush, green, and covered in ferns!
The trail cuts through a fallen tree
The Redwoods sometimes in groups sharing 1 base, but having many trunks, I am standing in the middle of one of these looking up!
About half a mile in a huge tree lay across the trail, but luckily a nice symmetric hole had been cut directly through the middle for hikers to pass. I took time to admire it all and continued to hike on. Finally I reached the loop at the bottom of the bank that circled the tallest trees in the world. This was The Grove of the Giants, I was excited! I had expected to see signs at the bases of the trees with their names and heights but there was nothing. Only the one sign in front of “The Tall Tree” (Howard Libby Tree), which was the tallest tree in the world until overgrown by Hyperion (current tallest tree in the world at 380.3 ft) in 1988.
Misty, green, and beautiful
The split for the Tall Trees loop
Looking up the 11th tallest in the world, 3rd tallest in the Grove of the Giants the Howard Libby Tree (Tall Tree)
I took a moment to walk around and appreciate the massive tree. Far up into the sky it reached, so high I couldn’t see the very top where it was 350+ feet, but I could see the branches at the top being bathed in the sunlight. It was incredible! I kept trekking along and finished the loop. Of course my curiously had gotten the best of me, and I still had to reach the tallest tree which resided on the other side of Redwood Creek. I walked out onto the stone beach to find a raging river. The water was cold and quick, and there was no rock jump or downed tree where I could safely cross. Regrettably I realized this was most definitely a summer hike, so I snapped some pictures and turned back to the trail.
Looking upstream from the impassable creek
The trek out was quite different than the way in. I started running into other hikers taking on the Tall Trees trail, but once I got back onto the Dolason Prairie trail there was no one. The woods were quiet, I had expected by this time of day that they would be more awake with birds, bugs, and other sounds… but there was nothing. I whistled to myself to fill the silence and pushed back up the large hill I had descended that morning.
Grey skys over the Dolason barn
Sky threatens rain on the hike out
I hiked on through with ease all the way up past the old sheep barn to find cold overcast skies greeting me. I finally reached the van, ready to be fed and get back on the road headed south. What an incredible day, the hike was like nothing I had ever seen and all it took was a little curiosity to get me there. I will definitely be returning to touch the tallest tree… until then redwoods!
Morning light in the woods
Soooo greeeennnn
Lush moss
Moss, mushrooms, fungi, what more could you want?!
Looking up into the treetops
a few downed reds
Such massive powerful bark
Well hello there firend
Looking up into another redwood cluster
Down near the creek, amongst the tallest trees in the world
The wet and humid environment here is a moss's playground!
Rock on!
Spectacular!
Big boys
Tall, dark, and handsome
Now were getting there!
Just near the bridge
Some of the group has fallen, but the rest thrive on
We started the day early, hopeful for a top out of the trek we had mapped out. It was a climbing route Johnny Vegas with a link up to Solar Slab in Red Rocks National Park, Nevada. The entire push would be 13 pitches of trad…no easy undertaking. Sitting up in the back of the van, we attempted to shake off the morning chill while the alarms were blasting. We had slept just 5 hours after leaving work and driving from Phoenix to a campsite just outside of the park. Fresh as daisies! After stirring a few times, we finally got going and were one of the first ones in the park at 6 am. Unfortunately we hadn’t packed our gear or eaten breakfast, costing us some precious time, so we watched climbers pull in and head off to their respective routes as we labored on. Finally ready, we did a full gear check and set out on the trail.
Lets get going!
All geared up, fed, and finally moving! (Kari leads out)
At first it was unclear which canyon we should enter. We pressed on until finally the solar slab came into view. “There it is!” announced Kari and we were soon hiking up the final approach to the base of the climb. We made the base of Johnny Vegas and noticed one group was already ascending with a 2nd group setting up for their climb. We waited patiently, prepping our gear and ourselves for the climb. I was first up to lead and I threw the trad rack over my neck prepping to leave the safety of the first ledge. I would be sharing the next small belay with the team ahead of me so I gave them some space.
2 climbers on Johnny Vegas (can you make them out?)
Before I knew it my hands were on the wall covered in chalk. After taking a deep breath, my feet followed suit. The holds were great and finding gear placements wasn’t too bad so I sailed my way through the first pitch. I call it “turning the lizard brain on”…focusing solely on the holds and pushing any fear far away from my climbing confidence. I felt really solid and was soon clipping into the bolts at the top of the pitch trying to share a tiny ledge with Mike and Elaine, the Canadian climbers from the group ascending ahead of us. They were very nice and patiently waited as their lead climber pushed through the 2ndpitch above. Kari and the crowd of waiting climbers that gathered below were out of sight by the time I reached the anchor. I clipped in with a 4 foot long personal anchor and stood on the ledge below as I waited for the climbers ahead of me to move forward. Once they did I set my anchor in the bolts, pulled up the remaining rope, put Kari on belay, and yelled “Climb On!” after tugging the rope 3 times. He also sailed right through the first pitch; it was a fun and easy route.
Looking down pitch 1 of Johnny Vegas
We decided to swap lead up the 2nd route so we traded gear and soon enough Kari was off, up a corner onto the white and brown stained sandstone face above. I sat below belaying as Kari climbed when all of a sudden the lead climber of the next team behind us came into view and then climbed onto the ledge next to me. We chatted for a bit talking about adventures and climbing, as well as how unique of a place Red Rocks is. In the middle of chatting I felt 3 long tugs on the rope… it was time to go! I took Kari off belay, cleaned the anchor off the bolts, gathered all my gear, chalked up, and took off. The second pitch was a little trickier than the first, but after finding some really solid holds it was another cruiser. I reached Kari belaying from a large ledge with a smile on his face. “What’s uppppp!” he said smiling, really enjoying the climb.
Start of Pitch 2, Johnny Vegas, Kari leading on
I got to the bolts, threw my personal anchor on, as swapped all the gear over again… I was back to leading. We checked the time and realized we were running against the clock. Not only was there a team right behind us, but other teams were climbing up an easier 5.3 gully to the east that could get to the base of the Solar Slab route quicker. This would leave us once again waiting on another team and potentially killing our chances of ascending to the top of Solar Slab. Hurrying on, I led out into pitch three which turned out to be a bit different than the first two. It became more slab-like with nice features to grab and seemed to go around a corner and on beyond our sight. This section ran a good 20 foot until I could finally place my first piece. “Whew!” I thought. The climbing wasn’t hard but slab with a little exposure always makes you put yourself in check. I gained the corner and slung a small chicken head just before clipping in my rope. Safe again! The next part of the route was just as tricky as there were no good pictures in the research and it wasn’t clear from just looking at the face where to go. I pushed up and over a corner to the left face right into more slab territory. With all the zigzag gear placements and movements of the route, the rope started to have a lot of friction and became hard to pull up as I climbed.
Valley below (this picture is actually from up on Solar Slab, but I figured why not throw it in for fun as I didn’t get much of any pics from Pitch 3/4 on Johnny Vegas)
I looked left…I looked right… no clear path. I turned my gaze upward, the only way left that made sense, and pushed on. At this point I realized I hadn’t placed a piece in a while and the resistance from the rope drag had started to affect my climbing. I became worried that I was off route, not sure if I could make it to the next set of anchors above. On and on up the whitewash sandstone slab, I finally I found placement for a cam in a small crevice. I clipped in and look around, still with no idea where the route was supposed to go. I called down to Kari to let him know what was going on but he couldn’t do anything to help me at this point. I had no choice but to keep grinding up the face and try to find a good place to belay him, knowing the other team behind us was waiting. I got to a point where I couldn’t move because of the rope drag on me, so like tug of war with a bull I pulled about 8 feet of slack up allowing me to climb up and over the face. With this much slack and the amount of rope drag, if I were to fall it wouldn’t be pretty. I pushed the issue far from my mind and topped the slab dome in front of me. BOLTS!!!!!! Boy was I happy to reach the end of that pitch. I anchored in and set up to belay Kari below. “Climb on!” I yelled after taking all the slack. The amount of friction on the rope was intense and made the belay utterly exhausting. After Kari reached the anchor, we looked back and realized that I had linked pitch 3 and 4 into one long pitch, making it much more difficult than it should have been. Nevertheless, we had ascended Johnny Vegas and it was time to push on to Solar Slab.
Kari, killin it on pitch 1 of Solar Slab, Hes right at home here in Kari natural slab environment!
We barely beat another team ascending the 5.3 gully below and got on Solar Slab quickly. Kari took the first pitch which started as a low angle class 4 then slabbed into a class 5 crack with some fun body movement. Kari always makes slab look so easy to me…he breezed through the pitch, stitching it up with trad gear easily. Soon he was at the top of the pitch, all set up to belay me. I stuffed a Cliff Bar down my gullet and put my shoes back on that I had taken off for a quick breather. It was time to climb again! This pitch was quite fun, it wasn’t straightforward and you really had to search for the right solution to ascend the climb. I gained the crack and before long was next to Kari on the ledge ready to once again lead the next pitch.
Climbing pitch 1 of Solar Slab, a second team sets up below us and far below on the nub you can see a team topping out Johnny Vegas
Flake system on pitch 2 of Solar Slab, nice and run out to the first piece =)
Pitches 3 and 4 of Solar Slab were recommended to be linked together, I looked up the first section and the runout was quite long. Kari chimes in, “Do you want me to lead it?” “Nah, I got it”, I replied. I felt good, even with the runout and the rope drag, and my head was on straight. I roped in, geared up, and set off across the ledge to the west and up a fat attached flake system. There were small pockets, but nothing deep enough to place gear so I climbed on. Once again I found myself with about 25 foot runout from Kari but I had no choice but to climb further until I found a good spot to place a cam or nut. After about another 5 feet I found the spot, placed a piece, and clipped the rope to it. I breathed another sigh of relief but still felt really good. I climbed on, ascending the flake, and found the top of pitch 3. After clipping the rope into a draw at the bolts, I decided to push for the link up and began traversing a long ledge. Finding myself with a face climb and a crack to the left where I should ascend, I started up. It was a tough slab with small feet, but I spotted a bomber left handhold about 10 feet up. I climbed, set my left foot, and just as I reached for the hold my foot slipped off the face! Down I slid, down onto the ledge below. “Ugghhh” I sounded as I landed. “What was that?!” Kari shouted up from the belay below, out of sight. “I took a small fall” I yelled back, “But I’m safe!” I got right back on the face, making the same move, only this time I landed the bomber hold, made my way to the crack and placed a piece. I kept up the good progress, laying gear as I went. The rope drag once again became enormous to the point of hindering my climbing. I started pulling up a few feet of slack, making a climb, placing an piece of gear, and repeating until finally I reached the top of the 3rdpitch and its anchors.
Top of pitch 3 looking back down the crack. the rope drag from linking pitch 2/3 was enormous!
I set up and belayed Kari, who (of course) climbed up the pitch with ease. He later told me he was glad he wasn’t the one that led the start of the runout, and that the face climb where I had so much trouble was a much harder route (I should have stuck to the corner crack the whole way up). We looked up at climbers beginning to repel the route and checked the time. We were running out of daylight with only about an hour left. Between the late start and waiting on the other climbing teams, it became apparent that the only way we were going to finish the route was in the dark. If we pushed for a top out it would be difficult to find the repel bolts in the dark, and we could put ourselves out of position to climb early the next day. “Let’s push one more pitch, then bail” I suggested. Kari agreed and began the climb of our last pitch of the day. The sun dipped below the mountains to the west and I was left shivering in my shorts as Kari climbed. Kari is from Iceland and loves cool weather…I on the other hand, not so much. When it came to my turn to climb I rejoiced! After reaching the anchors, we hung there for some time, taking in the sights and snapping pictures of the route and the valley below. Man what a day!
Night night sun! Sleep well!
Rapping down from Solar
We began repelling the route, pitch after pitch until reaching the base of Solar Slab. We worked our way over to the 5.3 Gulley, which was notorious for hanging up ropes, but it was easier to decend in the dark than coming directly down Johnny Vegas (which may have had other climbers on it). Kari repelled first, and then I would follow. Bolts, bolts, bol . . . . wait no bolts, what the heck!
Rapping 5.3 gulley
Some “questionable” webbing left behind . . . not too sure about that rock. We left our own.
We found some old webbing slung around a nearby “questionable” rock and decided to set our own and continue the repel. At the base of each repel we would pull one half of the rope down from the anchor above which would slide freely and we could retrieve it to set up for the next repel below. After repelling from the webbing, we went to pull the rope and it started to come down. Just before the end of the rope let free, it became lodged in something above. Kari and I pulled and pulled on the rope, no luck. We pulled again, simultaneously putting our whole weight on the rope, still nothing! Without the rope we could no longer climb the next day. We tried again without success. It was either cut the rope, leave it behind, and use the remaining rope to repel or re-climb a pitch to manually free the rope so we could go home… climb it was. Kari tied in and I belayed him from below. He ascended the awkward 5.3 in the dark and soon found the rope bound up behind a boulder. He freed it and soon came repelling down, tired and exhausted ready to be back at the van. We gathered our gear and slowly hiked out through the dark climber’s path, back to the parking lot where food and rest awaited. Despite the trials and tribulations, it was an incredibly beautiful climb and great day to be outside!
Rapping the 5.3 Gulley
Looking up from Pitch 2 on Solar Slab
pack it up!
Night before cram session
Still got a ways to go!
Gotta love this place, best views are form the wall!
Beautiful flake system
Top of pitch 3 on Solar Slab (I promise there is a 2nd bolt under there)
Rogers Canyon, from the cave that was home to the Salado Indians 600 years ago
The Superstitions is such a special place. It is so rugged, raw, and the depths of which are hardly explored! My buddy Jason and I decided to do a nice day hike and hopefully see some Indian ruins in the process. The road to Rodgers Trough trailhead is an adventure all in its own. We headed out the night before in hopes to reach the trailhead, but we were thwarted by the Queen Creek running pretty deep from all the recent rain we had been getting.
The foggy drive in
We decided to camp for the night and wake in the morning in hopes that the creek would have gone down a bit, and the dirt road (which was undoubtedly a sloppy soup) could dry out a bit. We woke early, fired up the van, and headed back to the crossing. It was much better at this point and the rest of the drive to the trailhead went smoothly (although the road is anything but).
Wilderness baby! Just like home, time to get moving!
The sky threatened rain, and the clouds looked unwelcoming as we drove further into the heart of the Superstitions. After an hour or more we finally arrived at the trailhead. W grabbed our packs and rain gear and set out on the trail. Although it was sprinkling slightly it was a pretty nice day to hike. It didn’t take long before the dew covered trail side plants soaked our legs and pants. We trekked on further into the canyon until being dumped in the bottom where a small creek was running. We followed the trail, hopping back and forth until the canyon headed up and over the next hill. We made the junction for Rodger Canyon and we paused to admire the sign before headed west away from the AZT.
Look at those fresh signs, Rogers Canyon and Reavis Ranch trail 109 junction
Where are we going again?!
The trail was in pretty good condition despite the rain. We trekked on startling up a few deer and birds as we hiked. What a nice day, the overcast and cool temps were welcome as we pushed further. Finally after about 5 miles we reached our destination, the Salado Indian Ruins. I had been to this site before, but it was a bit of a surprise for Jason. We checked out the structures that stood for 600 years in total awe. We imagined what it was like to live in that time, what it took to survive there, how many people were in that small cliff dwelling, and of course, what actually happened to them.
Jason making the scramble to the first glimpse of the large ruin up top
Ruin from the back of the cave
picture stitching wasn’t perfect, but hey here is 1 more view
We hung out in the dwellings for some time, had a snack, enjoyed the views, and finally the fog and the gloomy clouds began to give way to bluebird skies. The structures themselves were increduble. How the indians lugged that much rock, logs, and dirt up into the high cave was beyond me. I wondered how long it took them to complete just 1 room of the structure. How much food they would have had to gather just to feed the workers that labored on for days on end, perhaps months, to complete it. Thier fingerprints were frozen in time with the mud caked walls of the ruin. We could have stayed in the canyon forever, but we decided to get moving, back the way we came, towards the trailhead.
Finger prints frozen in time
Still holding strong 600 years later!
Back to creek hopping we went following the twisting trail back and forth heading out of the canyon. We turned a corner and 30 feet from us stood a huge 8 point buck. As soon as he saw us come into view, he and the doe with him turned and like lighting bolted up the canyon walls. It is always awesome to have that chance with nature encounters in the wild.
Once the fog and rain cleared it made way for a beautiful drive out
Who wants to go splashing?!
We pushed back to the trailhead, loaded back up in the van and drove back up the muddy dirt road towards phoenix. The sunset and the views on the way back were so incredible; pictures can hardly do it justice. Sometimes its hard to imagine a life without the amenities of the modern world: cars, smartphones, grocery stores. Its nice to come to places like this and be reminded to stay humble and grateful for what you have. Another awesome trek in the beautiful Superstitions was safely complete.
Sky of fire!
ruin roof assembly, Large beams, small support, hay covering, mud and rock on top
hello fungi
wet and wild!
beautiful drive out
AZ skies you are the best!
looking back at the canyon from the ruin cave
the cave housing the ruins from the canyon below
they dont make em like they used to
same for for hundreds of years!
AZT baby!
Oh, hello there fella!
From inside the ruin
Oh waterfalls in the supes, how awesome you are
manzanita . . . . and Jason =)
Beautiful views on the drive out!
HIKE INFO:
Rodgers Canyon, Superstition Moutnains
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 60s, Low 40s, Cloudy, Rainy
Water: 2.0 liters
Food: 1 Cliff Builders Bar, 1 Cliff Bar, 1 apple, 1 powerbar, bag of Mediterranean vegitable chips
We woke as the sun glared down on the side of the tent. I was excited to start the day but was a little sluggish starting out as I slowly pulled myself from the tent and gathered my gear together for the day’s trek. I had put in for permits to The Wave and was finally lucky enough (after several months of trying) to pull 4 of them. Nestled away in the North Coyote Buttes area of northern Arizona, some people wait upwards of 10 years to get pulled from the online lottery system and come from every corner of the world to see this one place. I waited until after our trip to the Buckskin Gulch the day before springing the news to the crew (I was keeping the permits a secret as it was icing on the cake for the weekend). Unfortunately there were about 12 of us, and I’m not one to choose one friend over another, so we drew for it using paper out of a hat. Fair is fair!
Gaining the top of the first hill on the hike into the North Coyote Buttes
Water impacts this place so much, such a powerful force!
It ended up being Craig, Eva, Mikhaila, and I that piled into Craig’s 4Runner and dashed off towards the Wire Pass trailhead. Mikhaila told me she had been trying for years to get there and looked more like a kid on Christmas morning than I did! She was smiling from ear to ear ready to see this special place. We drove down the dirt road, crossing a running wash just above Buckskin Gulch trailhead, until we reached our destination. As soon as we stepped out of the car a Ranger called out “Michael?!” Talk about being on their game…the guy had my name, number, permit number, and group number hand written on a clipboard. After giving us the rundown and chatting with us for 20 minutes, filling us in on the best places to check out and where to take good pictures, he moved onto the next group of people pulling up. We took our opportunity and jetted for the trail… I was anxious to get going!
Lets push on, colors are really starting to pop!
The trail for The Wave diverged from Wire Pass trail just a half mile in, climbing up a good incline and turning south. Once among the sandstone formations of the hike, there is no trail. I could easily see how people could get lost, run out of water, and not make it back in the summer months. The permits came with a pictorial step-by-step map to get us there which proved to be immensely helpful. We trekked on with virtually no cairns and few markers across the open desert, giant formations popping up around us, hoping we were on the right track. The ground gripped the soles of our boots like sandpaper, helping to drive a good pace. The colors of the formations were absolutely incredible…it looked like an artist had created the scenery with a carving knife and paintbrush, a palette of orange, reds, and yellows coming through, to make their masterpiece. I guess you could also say it looked like a kid sitting on porch steps in summer, cream sickle dripping down his shirt onto his converse kicks. You know, whatever analogy grabs ya!
Across the open desert
Sandstone flakes of goodness
Getting closer!
Charging the last hill before The Wave
We pushed forward through the formations until entering the final ascent into the section that gives the trail its namesake. We had been in such awe the entire hike it was hard to see how it could get any better, but when we finally reached what we had come so far to see we weren’t disappointed. It was kind of like walking on Mars. It’s difficult to comprehend how rocks and hills and mountains could be shaped in such a way, or imagine even then they were continuing to erode away as the wind whipped through the canyon.
Hmm . . . whats over here . . .
Side entrance to The Wave 1
Side entrance to The Wave 2
Side entrance to The Wave 3
Anyone bring their swim trunks?!
Like kids in a candy store we snapped pictures left and right. There was water at the base of The Wave where a small group of frogs had made their temporary home. We hiked on up, south of the formation in search of Melody Arch, a naturally formed widow that the Ranger mentioned. The climb to the slopes above was steep, but our shoes stuck like lizards to the rough surface. A chilly wind whipped across the North Coyote Buttes something fierce, but the sun beamed down and provided some warmth. We pulled our hoods up and pushed further up the rock face around the bend until finally spotting the arch from above. “There it is!” called Craig, who then proceeded to climb down and find the best path towards the base. Even though the rock itself was rough, the face of the formation was smooth with few good handholds to grab onto. This made any traversing tedious, but with care we found ourselves staring through Melody Arch and the window beyond. We paused for pictures and a breather to take it all in.
Found the Arch and the window!
Just for fun!
View from the window
There was so much to see here but so little time. We were all due back in Phoenix the next day for those pesky things called jobs and still had a long drive to go, so after exploring what we could, we turned back and retraced our steps to the parking lot. We left the cream sickle colored paradise behind us, taking only the great memories and few pictures of that beautiful place, but it was well worth it. Until next time!
I am launching a new project called Trail Post. Details can be found here: Trail Post Project
What Is this about? As a part of the project launch, I am instituting a challenge to my friends, family, and local outdoor enthusiasts for a fun outdoor activity to encourage hiking, a little mischief, and prize-winning!
How to play? Your job as hikers will be to come find me. My job will be to provide prizes to the first 20 people who find me using the spot tracker (link provided below).
As most of you do not know what I look like, I will be wearing all green head to toe. Trust me, you will NOT miss me!
What happens when you find me?
Call me out by name: “GoatManMike” and tell me you are playing “Hike and Seek” that’s it! I will be hiking several places throughout the day, so don’t expect me to stay in one spot. The first person to find me at each location gets a bigger prize (of course), and then each seeker after will get smaller subsequent prizes.
I hope to see you all out there on the trail and I look forward to seeing you participate in the Trail Post Project!
Selecting hiking shoes/boots is as sacred to each hiker as his or her own religion. No pair of feet and no pair of shoes are exactly alike, so finding the right match is paramount to making yourself comfortable on the trail. I’ve tried many different companies and styles, and I’ve found Merrell boots have always worked well for me. They’re ready to go straight out of the box with little to no break-in time and you can put a good 500 miles on them before they wear out (once they fall apart I usually glue them back together and take them another 100 just for good measure). Five years ago a co-worker handed me a pair of Merrel Moabs for $20 and I have been hooked ever since.
These boots are optimal for desert hiking. They’re lightweight at just under 2 lbs., key on those long 10+ mile days where every pound you’re carrying counts. They’re breathable and dry out quickly when wet, ensuring your feet stay dry even on those hot and humid days (or if you have to cross a creek you weren’t expecting). They’re very durable and a great value for the cost. As mentioned, there’s little to no break-in time, so no worries about blisters or fatigue when your buddy calls you up last minute for a hike you just can’t miss. The only cons are they aren’t waterproof and don’t stand up to cold weather, so you have to plan your hikes accordingly. I’ve heard that some hikers complain that they can feel the rocks under their feet through their boots. Towards the end of the shoe’s life they become like slippers, very comfortable but you can indeed feel the terrain beneath your feet. I wouldn’t call it a con as I personally like this feeling, I mean why wouldn’t you? All things considered, these are great hiking boots for many terrain types and conditions and something I’d recommend for any level hiker whether they are a beginner or seasoned veteran with a lot of miles under their feet.
Pros:
Light weight
Breathable
Low cost
Durable
Dry quickly if wet
Low to no break-in time
Cons:
Non waterproof
Not great in cold temps
Some say they can feel rocks on the trail through their soles (I personally like this)
Full disclosure:
Merrell contacted me a few months back looking for a blurb on Buckskin Gulch. I still have no idea how they found me, but I have always been happy with their products. I didn’t think much would come of it, so I shot them a small excerpt and a link to my post on the hike. Just the other day they got back to me saying I was featured in their 40 Extreme Treks site where they highlighted some good tough treks around the world. Check out the site, they have some great bucket list treks on there and I think I will try and make some a reality.
The alarm went off blasting at 3:45am, demanding we get up and get moving. The sun was far from ready to greet us and darkness didn’t provide much encouragement. Stevo was already sitting up in a crouched position gathering his thoughts and gear. “I didn’t sleep too well last night” was about the only thing he said the first 20 minutes. I don’t think any of us did…the night was warm, almost too warm for sleeping bags, and I tossed and turned several times through the night. It was tough getting going and none of us really wanted to leave yet, but there was nothing else to do but suck it up.
We went through the morning ritual of cooking breakfast and packing for the day. Night hiking is one of things you just get used to out of necessity…getting up for an early hike out, beating the heat, and getting back to Phoenix before midnight was the name of the game. We strapped on our headlamps, packs, and trekking poles and set out. I looked back one last time to admire our vacant camp and reminisced of the last time I had been here the previous year. After taking a moment, I turned and headed up the trail.
Mark hiking through the night
We pushed up the trail hugging the west side of the creek until finally being forced to cross over to the east. From there the trail turned away from the creek and began to climb. We pushed through reeds of the lush foliage lining the creek and were soon back in open desert with cat claw acacia and cactus pleading for us to give them a hug. Pushing on and up through the darkness we ascended the switchbacks and I really started generating heat as we climbed. Soon we hit a switchback, turned right, and began descending across a small wash. “This is strange” I thought as we descended a few more feet. We kept pushing and the hit a rock wall… no way up. We turned and pushed further down . . . cliff. “Something is wrong”, I thought as we continued walking the trail. After some searching, I realized we were at Deer Spring and had taken a wrong turn. We about-faced and headed back the way we came until we found the missing switchback. We were back on pace and back to sweating out the climb.
Thin trail, skirting the rock face, 300 ft dropoff to the right, rock face to the left . . . . good thing we cant see much!
We were soon above the spring, skirting the wall across a narrow trail headed east to Surprise Valley. Our goal was to get out of the valley and atop the red wall before the sun peaked and turned the heat on high. We pushed up and on, hard and fast as the morning’s twilight began. Sweaty and still tired from the restless night we reached the saddle at Surprise Valley and stopped to take in the views. Pulling off our headlamps and prepping for the climb ahead, we looked up at the large amount of gain left in the day. Press on guys! Taking on big gain is almost as enjoyable to me as seeing the views at the top of a climb. We let out, switch backing up the red wall, until finally reaching the head. Out in the open the wind was whipping and as soon as I stopped I pulled my jacket out to keep warm.
We3 reached Surprise Valley, just as the sun started peaking at us
We looked over the valley below, back to the canyon where we slept, and attempted to see the Colorado River with no luck. We had a nice jump on the day by making it to the red wall before the sunlight hit us and the temperatures were good for climbing. We finished our snack break, pulled off our jackets, lathered up with sunscreen, and continued our push across the Escalante and the final ascent towards the rim.
Hiking up the Red Wall as the sun rises (click to enlarge)
Almost to the top of the redwall (click to enlarge)
The top of the redwall! (click to enlarge)
The traverse of the flat Escalante was rather quick and soon it was a trek across the open desert, checking out the sandstone formations as we went. We turned another corner on the trail and the large formation where we stashed water came into view. Breaktime! We had been pushing hard since the top of the red wall at a good clip, so everyone peeled off their bags and tossed them aside for a quick rest. Our water supply of 2 liters from Deer Creek was still going strong so we took a few swigs of our stashed water and dumped the rest. Stevo was still tired from the intermittent night’s sleep and Mark’s shoulders were rubbed red from the older Osprey pack he had packed to the gills for this trip. It seemed as if everyone was ready to just get back to the truck, but a nice 1800 foot climb up the white rocks of Monument Point up Bill Hall Trail and the final decent to the trailhead still stood in the way. We strapped up once again and headed for the final push.
Quick rest before pushing on
Stevo took lead and started the push up to the white rock faces ahead. This was where everyone went into their suffer cave and huddled in the corner for a while until it was all over. To pass the time I started a conversation about how people have limited time on the earth and how interesting it is that some people work all week just to come outside on the weekend and suffer. There is a price for getting to see cool things like the bottom of the Grand Canyon, mainly 4500 feet of elevation gain inside 10 miles or less. We labored on, pushing hard up the switchbacks until finally reaching the face and plopped down for another quick rest. The views of course were incredible and well worth it. You could hardly make out the canyon where we had started from just hours before.
Stevo leads out towards the last ascent
Mark skirts the last section before the top out just before Monument Point
Views from the skirt (click to enlarge)
Once again we saddled up after taking in the views and completed the final push out. We skirted the thin trail on the face until finally pushing up the last set of ascending switchbacks. It was nearly 1pm when we topped Monument Point and we slowly made our way back to the truck. Packs on the ground, shoes off, water in hand, smelly, and tired, we finally made it! I looked back to the rim where we had just come to contemplate the journey we had just completed. Man I wish I had more time out there . . .
Stevo and Mark, taking the final steps up to Monument Point
Morning light
pushing across the Escalate
Finally the trailhead comes into sight from Monument Point!
My eyes popped open and I looked up at the roof of my orange tent. I moved slowly and pulled myself into a sitting position to unzip my vestibule, and remembered I was in the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Golden light kissed the red walls, always a welcome reminder that I am somewhere special. It was time, yet again to get going. We emerged, and slowly gained motivation: boiled water for breakfast, broke down the tents, and packed the bags. Our goal for the day was to make it from Upper Tepeats camp to the Colorado River, where we would take a crosscut to Deer Creek campsite.
My legs actually took a bit of damage from the day before; it was a big 16 mile day. I stretched them out in between stuffing things in my pack and sipping on instant coffee. When we departed camp it was a late 8am. This would be our lightest day of the trip, but we wanted to make some good pace to spend as much time in the narrows of Deer Creek as possible. We headed south, towards the Colorado after finding a good creek crossing that took us to the east side of the canyon. With the water flowing through the bottom of the canyon, it was like a small oasis. Green lush plants clung to the creek’s side, hiding away from the heat of the desert in the open canyon. The huge cottonwoods, which had luckily survived monsoons and flash floods, stood tall and proud. We kept trekking until finally crossing back over to the west side of the canyon. From here the trail took to the cliff sides, quickly gaining elevation. The creek continued to drop below, as we skirted the impending drop-offs.
Trees suckle at the waters of Tepeats Creek
Onward we go towards the mighty Colorado
As we continued to rise out of the creek bed, the sun began going to work on us. The trail was slim and slender with a rolling drop-off at first, then to sheer cliffs which would drop you to the narrows of the creekbelow. We kept trekking, shading our eyes from the beating sun.
The trail begain to rise above the creekbed
“Did you hear that?!” Stevo piped up. We all paused for a moment to listen. There were voices in the narrows, and it sounded like people were playing in the creek. Not long after hearing voices, we ran into two river rafters coming up from the Colorado. They were red from the sun and had some colorful hats, squirrely beards, sandals, and smiles. We stopped for a quick chat. They were on a 25 day self-guided rafting tour and they would stop off on side canyons on their way down the Colorado for day hikes. Their sights were set for Tepeats Cave. We warned them of the bushwhack ahead and wished them luck!
First sight of the Colorado!
As we pushed on, we bumped into more and more rafters on their way up the Thunder River trail from the Colorado. They were all from the same crew, smiles all around. Finally we rounded the bend as saw the mouth of the canyon and the great Colorado River! We dove down the switchbacks, and before we knew it, we were slipping and sliding on the boulders leading us to the cold brown waters of the river. After resting for just a moment, one of the rafters that were ported at the confluence of Thunder River and the Colorado, headed our way. It was like some kind of dream: the gal brought us 3 fresh cold beers and we sat on the rocks in the sun by the river and enjoyed them. She let us know her husband was one of the guys headed for the cave while the rest of the group was doing a little less of an adventure day trek. We chatted for a bit, they were from an Alaskan river guide group and came to the canyon once a year for an annual rafting trip.
Feet in the chilling waters we soaked in the views and the sun
After sipping on the cool brews, we had to once again shoulder our bags and push towards Deer Creek. The 3 rafters that decided to tend to the boats offered to give us a small raft to ride it down to DeerCreek. It was an incredibly enticing offer as it would take us minutes to traverse the miles as opposed to hours. “We have to suffer!” I said as we all strapped on our gear and stood ready to traverse the miles to our next destination. They waved goodbye and we once again set out.
traversing the cross cut river trail
The Traverse Trail started out sandy- and wasn’t much of a clear trail at all. We bobbed in and out, high and low, following cairns and footprints further down the path. The sun was in full bear-down at this point and we felt it at the low elevation of the river. We kept trekking until finally coming to “The Notch” that everyone we chatted with mentioned being the only tricky part of the Traverse. The climb up the rock formation wasn’t too bad, down climbing, however, was loose and tedious. We blew past this obstacle and pushed on.
Views of the Notch headed west along the river trail
Marko down climbing the other side of the notch, pretty straight forward
We came to a small ‘Y’ in the trail and decided to go high early. Go ahead and get the gain out of the way! It would bring us to higher elevations and slightly cooler temps (and maybe a breeze!). Up and up the warm trail we went, until we were finally a few hundred feet above the river again with great, expansive views of the canyon in the distance. The final push over to a saddle brought us just over the top of the Deer Creek campsite. We looked down at the inviting lush green oasis with relief that we were almost to camp and cool waters. “Man that looks delicious” Stevo exclaimed as he saw Deer Creek for the first time. We pushed on, found camp, set up our tent, and proceeded to sit in the creek for a half hour just to cool off and regenerate our spirits from the traverse.
Looking back east as we gained the trail
Good push up to the saddle before dumping into the canyon that housed Deer Creek (click to enlarge) Stevo is so fast he made the pic twice!
Camp baby!
After some snacks and a good creek soak, we once again gathered our daypacks together and headed down to The Narrows. This place is absolutely incredible. Pictures don’t do it justice, words cannot describe it. It is something you must see for yourself to fully understand what it’s like. We bumped into the river rafters once again as we entered “The Patio” area (the mouth of The Narrows). The creek opened up wide, bounded by the rock faces on either side, and soon began funneling down into multiple cascading waterfalls as it descended towards the Colorado. The water had done some good work here and it was written on the faces of the canyon walls. Smooth and ribbed it looked like something from another world. We trekked on, skirting a small shelf on the west wall of the canyon headed south. When we finally reached the end of the skirt a large open area gave way to beautiful full views of the Colorado in either direction.
Just beyond the patio area, so beautiful the Narrows were
Narrows, I can only imagine how you formed! Or how long it took . . .
The river dropped below almost out of sight as we headed towards the Colorado River
Awesome views as we descended the trail towards the Colorado
We bombed down the trail to the west switchbacking all the way until finally reaching the exit of DeerCreek, where the Narrows emptied into the Colorado. An 80 foot waterfall stood before us. It was powerful! The wind, from the water falling and colliding with the small pool below, pushed you back as you came closer. The water was brisk, cool, and clean. The mist from the waterfall covered our faces; we were so psyched, we barely noticed how cold the water was. After hanging out here for a bit and playing in the pools, we decided to push back up the narrows to camp.
Awesome views of the waterfall of Deer Creek as it exits the Narrows
Returning to the Patio area from the Narrows
As any good backpack, we ended the day tired and ready for bed just as the sun slipped away. We filtered water and grubbed down on a few Mountain Houses before finally crawling into our sleeping bags. Moments later, we crashed out for the night. It was another great day on the trail.
Headed south baby!
Hello there fella! Lil bee action
Push the cross cut
Looking West
Looking East
You can faintly make out the trail skirting the cliff edges towards Deer Creek
Lets go check out the narrows!
Looking back up towards the red wall on the morning of day 2
The trail creeping up the side of the canyon
nice little 8 ft downclimb
lets go! Gain that river train cross cut
headed towards the mouth of the Narrows
Getting closer!
Meeting the rafters on the Patio (mouth of the narrows)
Push on!
Looking west down the Colorado, so beautiful!
Narrows!!
And more Narrows!
you guessed it, more! Such incredible views!
Getting closer to the Colorado
small downclimb on the trail to the Colorado River
Waterfall goodness!
Headed back up the narrows towards camp
Millions of years of erosion
Beautiful waterfalls , this place can cleans your soul!
Food: 2 Power Bar, 2 Granola Bar, 2 Protien bars, 2 Clif Bars, 1/2 bag of Mediterranian Chips, 1/2 bag of trail mix, 1 apple, 4 bgas of Welches gummys, 1/2 bag of jerky, 1 Mountain House.
Time: 10 hours
Distance: Approx 8 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~800 feet
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Stevo, Mark, and I stood on the edge of the enormous cliff next to a brown wooden sign that said “Bill Hall Trailhead”. We had made the long drive from Phoenix out to the west side of the North Kaibab the night before in search of adventure and a tough challenge. This Grand Canyon goal was to complete the Thunder River/DeerCreek trail with a side trek aimed for the Tepeats Cave up on the Tepeats Spring Canyon.
View over the edge heading towards Monument Point (click to enlarge)
Just a few feet into the dropoff from Monument Point (click to enlarge)
Packs were heavy on our backs, loaded down with supplies for the three day journey. Being as ready as we were going to be, we took our first steps towards Monument Point as the sun was rising just before bombing into the abyss of the Grand Canyon. From the top we could see Bridger’s Knoll sticking up out of the esplanade plateau like the razorback of an old dinosaur. From there, we bombed down and let me tell you, with a 30 lb pack on your back pushing you down, it wasn’t easy. The trail was loose and steep, and with trekking poles in hand we picked our way down the first set of switchbacks. Before long we were skirting the trail westward in the shade, and as we rounded the bend we found ourselves at a beautiful open vista of the canyon beyond . . . and a nice 15 foot down climb. Stevo was first up and took it in stride while Marko and I adjusted our packs. With handholds aplenty, we made quick work of the short climb and pushed on.
Dropping elevation quickly!
More beautiful canyon, just after the 10- 15 foot downclimb
Skirt on! (Click to enlarge)
We finished the skirt and the many short, fast switchbacks which plopped us down on the esplanade plateau where the Indian Hollow trail met up with us. We strode forward amongst the sandstone formations and washed out cracks taking everything in, joking about current events, and talking about the dinners we would be downing that night. Just a few miles in, we took a quick rest and completed our water drop next to a huge sandstone formation. Knowing we had many more miles ahead we pushed on, over the open planes until finally we reached the head of the redwall. We looked down at the tiny trail below which we knew would be our ticket to Thunder river and eventually Tepeats Creek. Man what a view!
Down the switchbacks to the esplanade plateau below (Click to enlarge)
Pushing across the flat esplanade (Click to enlarge)
Oh hello there formations!
Walking to the head of the redwall, looking down into Surprise Valley
With no time to waste we bombed off again down the next dropoff. The sun had been creeping its way above our heads and as we dropped in elevation the temps began to rise. We hit the base of the redwall in a place called Surprise Valley. We joked “Surprise! It’s hot as hell!” After a short breather and a huge chug of water we headed east across the valley towards Thunder River. Up and down the small hills we climbed, the gorgeous canyon walls all around us, until finally we heard a fierce rumbling in the distance. We kept trekking closer and closer until reached the top of the canyon that fed Thunder River. A huge waterfall was just rapidly spewing gallons of water per minute from the rock face. It was hard to fathom where all the flow was coming from. An underground river riding a water table out of the wall? It’s hard to know. Like a pack of kids finding an X on a treasure map we scurried down the switchbacks and soon found ourselves at the base of the falls. The water was a crisp, clean, and cool and though we were star stuck admiring the falls, we knew we had to move on.
Exiting Surprise Valley and entering the canyon that houses Thunder River
The waterfall feeding Thunder River coming straight out of the wall
Base of Thunder River Falls
We dropped down further, skirting the canyons narrow west side trail until we reached Upper Tepeats camp where we would stay for the night. It was only noon, but we knew if we had any chance of getting to the Tepeats cave we would have to get a move on. We setup our tents, staking our claim, and strapped on day packs to once again hit the trail with our eyes set on the cave, 1500 feet of gain and 3 miles of a bushwhack away.
Pushing further down the skirt of the canyon towards camp
Is it time to cross yet?!
Crossing the river to the east side of the canyon we soon met the confluence of Thunder River and Tepeats Creek. Heading east, we stayed on the south bank until forced across the creekagain. Thick reeds, cat law acacia, and other brush did its best to thwart our efforts. We pushed further up the creek, hopping back and forth before finally coming to a mini-subway (rock formation in Zion). Soon after we pushed up past the mini-subway we found the mini-narrows, another formation resembling a Zion-like staple. The creek was wall-to-wall here and there was no other choice but to push up through the 50 degree waters. After 50 yeards or so we spotted a cairn sitting on a wall to the right of the creek. We decided to take that option, anything to get us out of the water for a while. We climbed up out of the riverbed to the south bank which took us skirting far above the rushing waters of the creek. This was the easiest terrain of the whole side trek to the cave, so we enjoyed it!
Mini Subway (Zion like formation)
Mini Narrows (Zion like formation)
Up top, open fields were a bit easier than boulder hopping of the creek
All good things come to an end, and so did our dry wall skirt as the trail dumped us back into the creek and pushed us north up the final canyon that held the cave. We were all tired by this point, but there was work yet to be done. We found a small use trail and continued to push forward, hopping rock to rock, pushing through thick brush, and skirting exposed rock faces before the mouth of the cave finally came into sight. It was on the east wall, just below the last cottonwood we could see in the canyon. We had expected the trial to become a little easier from here, but it only became harder. Marko, exhausted form the journey and coming in cold, decided to sit out the last push and replenish his batteries creekside with a water filter and a good snack. Stevo and I pushed on up the loose rock hopping back and forth the final quarter mile before reaching our goal.
Up Tepeats Creek we go!
Let the bushwhack continue!
Oh beautiful light on the trees
A tough grind up the final push to the cave
looking up the canyon, the cave is just to the right of the last cottonwoods
looking back the way we came
Pushing up Tepeats creek
Tepeats cave entrance
We stood at the mouth of the cave, headlamps on, uncertain of what we’d find. The air was dry and dusty as we stepped inside. Moving quickly, we pushed down the corridors and took mental notes of the rooms as we went. A beautiful stalactite and stalagmite had formed in the middle of one particular room and we paused to appreciate it. We followed a corridor to the right, up a small wall climb, and finally into a huge room with 50 foot ceilings. There was an NPS water flow sensor just across the room and at either end stood crystal clear pools of water. A few formations lined the walls and the underground river flowed in the rocks below our feet. Stevo looked at me mischievously and asked “Do you remember how to get out?!” I smiled and replied “Let’s hope so!”
The entrance
another corridor
The rooms are massive
Just taking it in
stalagtites over a cave lake
Awesome formations over the running lake
popcorn!
Stalagtites with popcorn
We turned around knowing time was running short and headed back the way we came. Through the maze of the cave, out the mouth, and back across the skirting exposed faces of the trail, we made our way until finally meeting back up with Mark. We could have easily spent hours in the cave checking out every crack, every room, nook and cranny. There is no telling how big the place was as some rooms were inaccessible without the proper gear. Satisfied with our journey for the day, though, we slogged back to camp tired but in good spirits. To our surprise we arrived just before the last bit of light slipped out of the canyon. As we cooked our Mountain House meals we exhaustedly reflected on the trek behind us and what was yet to come. What a great day it was, there’s nothing I love more than being outdoors.
Headed back to camp, the sun running from us in the process
Bill Hall tribute near the trailhead
Tarantula friends!
Formation where we dropped water
pushing across the esplanade
Dumping down the redwall towards surprise valley
cutting across surprise valley
skirting towards camp
up the canyon just before heading north for Tepeats cave
more cave corridors
cave lake, so clear and clean!
Bill Hall meets Thunder River Trail (starts at Indian Hallow TH)
Hello beatious lighted tree
Down into surprise valley
More of Thunder River Falls
so powerful!
Gott love the lush green clinging to the side of the creek
Food: 2 Power Bar, 2 Granola Bar, 2 Protien bars, 2 Clif Bars, 1/2 bag of Mediterranian Chips, 1/2 bag of trail mix, 1 apple, 4 bgas of Welches gummys, 1/2 bag of jerky, 1 Mountain House.
Time: 12 hours
Distance: Approx 16 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~1500 feet (loss of 6,100 accumilated feet)
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent
Big Agnes QCORE SLX sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
View of the valley below from the climb (picture credit to Kari)
Kari and I set out from Phoenix on a Saturday night in great spirits, our sights set on Mount Lemon for some trad climbing. Located just outside of Tucson, AZ, Mount Lemon is a “sky island” where the base rises rapidly from the surrounding desert to a good 7000 feet in prominence. Along the road that would lead us to the top, characterized by hairpin turn after hairpin turn, was a different climbing crag. We were aiming for a trad route called Standard Route with the Black Quacker linkup just off of Rap Rock near the summit. After the long drive up the mountain, we found a nice spot on incinerator ridge where sparse camping is welcome and plopped down for the night. As an added bonus we got to watch a killer lighting storm from afar as it lit up the night sky just before crashing out.
Storm was dropping lighting in the mountains across the valley, we watched just before crashing out. (picture credit to Kari)
The next morning the sun rose far too early. Rustling like a couple of lazy bears we finally got up, got breakfast rolling, and packed everything up for the day’s trek. The engine vroomed as I started my van and before long were off once again, headed for the summit parking lot. We pulled in to see a few other climbers getting ready to set off for their intended routes. We grabbed our gear and the route description and headed down Mount Lemon Trail #5 towards Rap Rock. We passed a small metal shack next to Quartzite Spring, and just 100 yards later the climber’s trail bombed down a drop-off headed to the saddle just behind Rap Rock.
Shed just above the Quartzite Spring (picture credit to Kari)
Down, down, down per usual, we hit the saddle and found the trail split, heading both east and west. Following the route description we took the trail to the east and it was bushwhacking time! The “trail” was tight and overgrown so we stumbled our way through it, trying to find the path of least resistance, until finally circling the southern face of the wall and the base of our climb. We started pulling gear from our packs and prepared for the ascent. Rope? Check. Harness? Check. Shoes, helmet, trad rack? Check, check, check. Quick draws? …silence… Quick draws? Kari looked up at me with an ‘Oh crap!’ look and I knew there was something wrong. We pulled our bags apart, double and triple checking, but it soon set in that the quick draws were still sitting in the van, doing nobody any good.
Rock faces to the west of Rap Rock
Such is life, I guess. We were outdoors with some awesome weather…I could think of worse places to be! We stashed our gear, I stuffed my daypack with water for two, and we took off to the west of the rock thinking it looked like a better trail to get back to the saddle. This proved to be our second mistake of the day! Skirting the base of Rap Rock was easy enough at first, but soon we were pushed into a nasty, thick bushwhack with no clear trail to the saddle. We had already lost too much time as it was, so we had no other choice but to keep pushing up through the enclosing brush.
Bushwhacking! Climbing back up to gather our quick draws, little log balance action!
Hopping boulders, dodging sharp thorns, and pushing up some unforgiving gain we finally reached the saddle. I looked to Kari, who was a bit flustered, and asked “Just like home, huh?!” Being from Iceland, Kari was used to the off-trail bushwhack and we were both determined to get a good climb in for the day. We reached the van and found the quick draws hidden away in the bottom of his gear bag. We laughed at the silly mistake, at that point it was all we could do, and headed back down to where we had left our gear at the base of the climb.
Coming back down the east side of Rap Rock
Bushwhack on!
No one else had been in the area so our gear was undisturbed. We strapped all our gear on and got ready for the climb. Quick draws?! Check! The climb was a 4 pitch and Kari opted to take the first. Reaching the first gear placement is always the hardest climb for lead climbers, and the hardest part to watch for lead belayers. Kari was up on the wall just 5 or 6 feet off the ground but began to skirt toward a crack off to the right. As he traversed, the ground below dropped off making the penalty for a fall even more severe. Until he placed his first piece, the only support he had was being tied to a rope, which in turn was tied to me 15 feet below. He finally reached the crack, looking (from my perspective) like a sticky tree frog, where he placed his first piece and clipped the rope in without breaking a sweat. “On belay” I hollered, letting him know I had him if a fall were to occur.
Pitch 1 of the climb, pictures never do it justice, the exposure below the crack can be unnerving (picture credit to Kari)
Kari pushed on, up the crack until finally reaching a nice pine on the ledge above. He set the anchor, pulled the slack out of the rope, and hollered back “On belay!” I was technically on ‘top rope’ at this point, the safest kind of climb you can have, especially with a bomber tree to hold my weight if I were to fall. I threw my pack on and plunged my hands into my chalk bag… it was finally time to climb! Up the tiny holds on the slab I went, finding the traverse, and like a silly climber I gave the drop below me a good gander. My fingers beaded with sweat as I continued to traverse toward the crack. I finally reached it, throwing my hands inside the negative crack and using friction to hold myself in place until I could grab a good hold higher up. I collected the gear and slowly picked my way upwards to the tree where Kari waited. I clipped into the anchor, relieved to have the first section done.
Second pitch, that was some “fun” runout to the first nut! (picture credit to Kari)
After a short break, I began to gather the gear and prepped for my first trad lead up the second pitch. The full trad rack weighed on my neak, dangling over my chest, obstructing my clear view of footholds below me. “This is going to be fun” I thought to myself as I reviewed the pictures of the route ahead. The runout to the first gear placement was pretty substantial, at least in my mind, at maybe 20-30 feet (I could easily be exaggerating) and the description read “PG13”. I started the climb, slowly making my way up the slab. It wasn’t a very technical start, but the next safe rock seemed to be miles away. I looked back down to Kari 15 feet below and thought “I can’t downclimb this, I have no choice but up”. This was about the time that I noticed Kari was looking away from me, and I knew it couldn’t be a good sign. He later told me that he had looked at me half way up the pitch and thought “What have I gotten Mike into?” It was time to turn the lizard climbing brain on and push all the negative thoughts out. I concentrated only on the holds and feel in front of me, and before I knew it I had worked my way into the first usable crack and was searching for a good placement for my first nut.
Grippy decent holds on most of the route
Finally I stuck it, threw a quick draw on the end of the nut leadwire, and yelled “clipping” as I pulled the rope up to clip in. A huge weight lifted off my shoulders and I sighed as I finally felt relatively safe. Leading is a total mind game. Sure there is danger, but if you can keep it together you’ll be just fine. I kept pushing up, placing piece after piece as I shouted “Clipping! Clipping!” Feeling focused, I spanned from one high left to a crack on the right into a layback which felt good. Inch by inch, I scampered up the pitch until I finally made it to the next belay station. I set up a good anchor and put Kari on top rope. The friction was high from the second pitch; I was pulling with each arm independently to take the slack out as he climbed, coiling the rope at my feet until finally Kari popped over the ledge as well. “Nice lead man!” He exclaimed as he clipped into the anchor. It was my first true trad lead and I was happy everything went as “smoothly” as it did.
Pitch 3, an interesting combination of crack and tree limbs haha (can you see Kari up at the next anchor?)
Kari lead the third pitch, making it look easy as always, even through some tough overhang spots and questionable crack traverses. He stopped at the top of the third pitch at a hanging belay and once again I was ready to climb. I clung to the rock, pulling gear as I went up and over the tough overhang start to a traverse with a foot on a convenient tree limb (I counted on it, why not?!). I tried to climb quickly as I knew Kari wasn’t a fan of the hanging belay. I finally reached Kari at the belay. My feet were on fire from being stuffed in aggressive shoes, it didn’t help that the sun was beaming on my already pressured feet. We swapped lead for just the first section of the pitch as I needed a break and Kari wanted to take on some exposed chicken head work (small rock formations that were great holds and almost looked like little deformed mushrooms which stood proud above the surrounding surface). He quickly reached a good belay spot and I was off again. Chicken heads are great for climbing but labor intensive on the rope as they cause quite a bit of friction, so Kari stopped short and I finished the final pitch onto the summit and into the dark. The sun had long since forgotten us and the moon came out to help light Kari’s final ascent up the 4th pitch.
Chicken head anchor! (picture credit to Kari)
The light was running from us as we finished the 4th pitch
Summit! We finally made it! Exhausted form the day’s climb we gathered our gear and prepped for the hike out. We slowly made our way down the backside of Rap Rock down a class 3 scramble and back to the saddle that would eventually lead to the van. It was a full day and we were both ready for it to be over, but we still had the “short” 25 mile drive down the mountain and the two hour road trip back to Phoenix ahead of us. What another awesome day, I’d take an exhausted moonlit walk back to the truck any day over being stuck inside an office. Get out there and push your own limits, you never know what new experience you’ll have and I can guarantee you won’t regret it!
On belay?
Looking up the 4th pitch (exposed and spicy but good holds) towards chicken head central!
Looking towards the setting sun
Down the east side bushwhack of rap rock
Oh look there is the trail!!! Ha I love a good bushwhack
I pulled up to the trailhead expecting my friends to be there, only to discover no one in sight. I looked down at my phone . . . no signal… “Welp this could be fun” I thought. I was at the Metate trailhead of Granite Mountain, ready to take on a trek to a multi-pitch traditional (trad) route on one of the mountain’s slab granite faces. I took another circle around the park to check the other trailheads, just in case they had parked elsewhere, but no luck. It was a 10 minute drive out to catch a signal, but I figured they would have to show up sometime so I got on my mountain bike and tooled around on the road until their Toyota came bounding into sight. I was all smiles, excited to start the day!
Craig, Eva, and Kari piled out of a 4Runner, bags in hand that were filled to the brim with harnesses, climbing shoes, helmets, a few ropes, quick draws, and of course Kari’s trad rack. We had a late start just around 11am, and as we let out Craig commented “as many times as I’ve gone trad climbing, I have never made it back to the trailhead before dark.” Well, it wouldn’t be my first night hike, and I could think of a lot worst places to be.
Craig and Eva pushing the approach hike
We headed out with Eva claiming lead and the trail taking off in a north westerly direction. At first the trail dropped down into a canopy covered canyon, lush with green, and weaved in and out on the canyon floor. After a quick jaunt the canopy began to fade as we entered a large open burn area. This time of year the brush and flower were celebrating the break of summer and covering the ground beneath the blackened and burned remains of the old trees. We finally reached Blair Pass, and beautiful views of the valley beyond and the rock face overhead where we intended to climb were in plain view.
First clear view of the Swamp Slabs! Whew getting excited!
We headed north from there, taking on the switchbacks of the trail and finally finding our first bit of gain. At the third switchback heading up the mountain our guide book instructed us to take the “climbers trail” east to the base of the Swamp Slabs where we would begin our climb. Let’s just say there wasn’t much of a “route” here. Accustomed to bushwhacking, we prepped and pushed forward, up the side of the mountain through brush, bush, cactus, and rocks until finally (with some sweat and scratches) made it to the base of the slab.
Craig belaying Kari from below on Dislocation Buttress (5.4)
Kari has been climbing trad for years and would lead. I could tell by a smirk on his face as he looked at the wall in front of us that he was ready to get started. Dislocation Direct was a 4 pitch 5.6 route (according to the book). We decided to go up the first pitch of Dislocation Buttress (5.4) and then skirt a ledge to start the climb just to warm up. We were told that many of the ratings here were sandbagged and not to be fooled by a low rating.
At first Kari led while I followed, leaving all the tread gear in place. Then immediately after I began climbing, Craig would begin climbing and take lead on a rope tied to himself while Eva belayed from below. The first pitch was deceptively long and tougher than a 5.4 (in my opinion…but what do I know). Once getting off the ground and onto the face my hands were sweaty from searching for holds. I stuffed my feet into cracks when I could to cling to the rock like a lizard. Halfway up the pitch Kari’s trad was 3 feet to the right, far from the crack I was climbing. I re-positioned my feet, one in a crack and the other on the face, and stood. My right foot began to slip so I backed off. I took a second look to figure out what the heck he did and finally found a solution that worked, moving past the obstacle. Before long, after climbing through a few bushes and finally up and over an awkward headstone to a face, I reached the exposed ledge where Kari was waiting as my belay.
View form one of the belay station ledges
Happy to see him, I clipped into the anchor he had created and took a nice rest while we waited for the others to join us. Soon Craig popped up right behind me, but after a few minutes he noticed Eva wasn’t climbing anymore and could have only been 15 feet off the ground. The cliffs had many ledges and crevices, restricting the line of sight to the climbers below from the belay station. We waited another minute, no movement . . . Worried something was wrong, Kari came off the anchor and went to the top of the pitch to repel down. It turned out a piece of gear had walked its way into a crack so far that Eva couldn’t retrieve it by hand and, not wanting to leave it behind, she was working to remove it. With a special tool, Kari removed the lodged gear and minutes later we were all at the anchor safe and sound.
Kari, getting to work!
Due to the difficulty I volunteered to climb last, swapping out with Eva as I felt confident I could get anything loose if it were to get stuck again (I wanted to get some experience cleaning gear to see the placement). We climbed on, Kari leading and soon disappearing into the rock above. A few minutes later he called down that we were set having reached the next belay point, and Craig and Eva took off as I belayed Craig from below. It’s a strange feeling standing on a ledge while everyone else climbs above knowing that you have no other choice but to follow. Waiting, I listened for muffled yells from above that I was set to climb.
Kari belaying from above, Craig following as I belay from below (Craig was paused so I could snap this pic)
The signal came at last; I threw on my pack and shoes, eager to get back at it. I began to climb and found that each pitch had a crux, a tough spot which took some extra effort to get by. The first pitch’s crux was just before the top, and there was a huge fin to the right which would have been a great hand hold. Kari said to heck with that easiness and went straight up a crack just to the left of the fin. The hand holds were small, the feet were smaller, and it took just the right balance to keep from falling. This was slab climbing, Kari’s favorite! I watched Eva and soon Craig pass on up to the belay station. I was could hear a grunt or two from Craig as he passed the crux, never a good sign as he is a much more skilled climber than me. I was up next, and it was time to shine (or crash and burn, whatever). I got to the crux quickly and taking great care to maneuver the tight, small holds managed to surpass it and get to the ledge. “Whew!” I exclaimed at I clipped into the anchor.
Base of Pitch 3
The sun was beaming down on us pretty good this late in the afternoon. We still had 3 more pitches to go and the sun wasn’t doing us any favors. This time Kari took on 2 pitches at once to make up for time and disappeared in the rock above. Soon Eva and Craig were gone too and once again it was my go. The first section was pretty straightforward and had some great holds. Just after clearing it I was staring at what seemed like a blank face, a huge left foot, and a large rock jutting out to create a small crack where Kari had left his gear. I approached and tried to orient my body for the high left . . . my foot began to slip and I backed off, grabbing for the jutting rock to hold me on the face. I tried again, nothing. And again, no success. I was starting to get frustrated looking at the face. I took a deep breath and approached one last time, hand on the jutting rock, fingers in the crack, right foot on a smear, and I pulled my left leg up from my crouched position for the big felt foot. Booya! Got it, but just barely! The rest of the climb on that pitch went smoothly from there. Climbing slab, cracks, and fins, grabbing trad gear as I went until I finally reached the ledge where everyone else was waiting. “That was spicy!” I exclaimed when I finally anchored in.
Nice rack Kari!!!
We looked to the west, the sun was setting and we were still on the wall with just one pitch left. Kari, with gear over his shoulder looking like Rambo with ammo belts, headed up the last climb. He once again disappeared in the rocks above. Pushing up, up, up we all soon reached the top of the climb. No chains to repel from here…nothing but you, the rock, and some trad gear. That’s pretty cool.
Sunset glow from the top, find waldo . . i mean kari!
The sunset was absolutely gorgeous. As we topped our climb, the sun was just dipping below the horizon. We all were happy to have finished and walked off the backside down a bushwhack gully back to our gear waiting below. By then it was time for headlamps, and we trekked down the climber “trail” in the dark until finally reaching the main trail again. I won’t name names, but there were a few cactus encounters the definitely kept us alive and on our toes. We walked back down the trail by headlamp, all tired and happy to complete another journey. Of course Craig was right, it was long dark before we got back to the car, but aren’t those some of the best kinds of trips?!
I woke early, before the sun was up, and my eyes cracked open from my 10 hour slumber like Sleeping Beauty ready to start the day! There’s something about backpacking…the sun goes down, you crawl in your tent after a long day and try to read and be productive, but instead you’re instantly drowsy and sleep seems to strike before your head even hits the pillow (for me at least).
I went through the motions, making breakfast, packing up, and getting everything in my bag, before finally standing. I was in a personal race with the sun as some of my favorite times on the trail are just as it peeks over the horizon. The golden light bathes everything around you, illuminating rock faces making cool shadows, and snakes through the trees, giving some beautiful views that you can only capture for that brief moment before it’s gone. Sunrise and sunset are some of my favorite views on a trail.
Pushing out on the trail as the sun greeted me over Roosevelt Lake in the distance
Strapped up, I stepped onto the dirt road where the AZT would wind and rise and fall for the next 11 miles before I would reach the trail cutoff to Kitty Joe Canyon and eventually my truck (hopefully still waiting for me un-vandalized and un-ticketed in the parking lot). With no idea what the day would hold for me, I headed out on my road walk. Not a soul was in sight, it was like the zombie apocalypse had happened while I was away and I was the last to know. Road walking gives you an opportunity to crank the pace wide open without worry, but it’s also one of my least favorite ways to hike. After 7 miles I took a break and had a quick snack on a rock, looking out the valley below. Just then I heard voices behind me…I turned quickly to see two hikers with big bags on their backs trudging my way. I stood on the rock, waved to the couple, and soon discovered that “Barking Spider” and “Stretch” were taking on the AZT in its entirety before continuing on to the PCT. Having not seen anyone for more than a day, I was glad for the company.
Morning glow on the mountains in the distance, so beautiful
It was both of their first times visiting AZ and they mentioned that they were blown away by the state’s diversity. They were on Day 21 of their trek and making great time. There are 43 sections for the AZT, each about 20 miles long, and their pace showed they could easily keep a solid 20 mile per day average going. We chatted about through hikes, saving up for the treks, working seasonal jobs, and of course AZ. “How about that water at Pigeon Springs?” Barking Spider asked. “Oh yeah, it wasn’t horrible, but I’ll take what I can get out here!” I responded. Apparently they had chosen the worse of the two troughs, not seeing the other, and got the blunt of the funk.
Vast wilderness!
All in good spirits, we kept trekking and the 11 mile slog quickly melted away. We made it to the cutoff and bombed down the canyon. I could see some old remains of a farm’s cattle watering trough in the distance. I snapped pictures as often as I could while trying to keep the pace going. Stretch held true to her name, man she could really move! At first glance you wouldn’t think it to look at her, but she took the lead and was quick as lightning, pushing a good 3.5 to 4 mph pace (this of course with a 20-30 lb pack on her back). We kept trekking until finally crossing a tributary to Boulder Creek. Here we parted ways as Stretch and Spider decided to take lunch and I pushed on. The cool creek was calling my name, but I wasn’t ready to rest yet, I wanted a few more miles under my belt.
Barking Spider and Stretch
I kept pushing onward, up over into open plains. The sun once again began to beat on my head as I approached Boulder Creek, and this time I was ready to hang out for a few minutes. I pulled my bag off and plopped down on a nice big grey rock next to a deep pool in the sluggish creek. The longer I looked at it the more inviting it became. I was making great time and I figured what the heck, a little dip after 2 days in the middle of nowhere would do me some good. I stripped (almost) all the way down and jumped in. Whheeeewwww boy was it cold! Springs from snowmelt were undoubtedly feeding the creek and it was exactly what I needed to rejuvenate my spirits, cool off, and have a minute to soak the feet.
This pool regenerated my soul!
I pulled myself from the creek, threw my cloths and boots back on, and strapped up my bag again and before long was back on the trail. I was all smiles at this point, feeling refreshed and ready to close out the journey. I trekked on until I saw a figure in the distance. I figured it was one of the through hikers, but began to second-guess that conclusion as the hiker was alone. Catching up, it turned out to be another section hiker named Stephen Cox from Phoenix. He was a firefighter and was out for an extended weekend to take in the sights and make some nature videos. He was loaded down with gear, which all in all he told me he probably weighed 300 lbs between his own weight, the camera gear, and his backpacking gear. What a trooper! With my small frame I couldn’t imagine holding that much weight. We chatted for a while before I headed on, towards Sycamore creek and further on Highway 87 where my truck waited on me. I wasn’t in a hurry to finish but matching the pace of the two through hikers had gotten me into a rhythm. I crossed Sycamore Creek, lined with cottonwoods, and before I knew it the highway came into view. The end was within sight! I wasn’t ready for the day to be done, but I had already pushed this far and figured I might as well finish strong.
Stephen Cox! @mrsteohencox – Here is his Vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1mm-eMSoPM
I hiked on until finally passing under the highway which marked the official finish to my Section of the AZT. I had recently completed Section 22 last year, and it was nice to be able to connect the two. I was dirty, smelly, and tired from the two day trek, but otherwise felt great as I approached my truck. Arizona is such a diverse and gorgeous place. There is so much to see and experience out there, and there is no better way to see it than walking every inch on the AZT (even if you have to section hike it)!
Food: 1 Power Bar, 1 Clif Builder Bar, 1 Granola Bar, 1 Protien bars, 1 Clif Bars, 1 Kind Bars, 1/2 bag of pringles, 1/2 bag of trail mix, 1 bag of Quinoa, 1 Oatmeal, 1/2 Avocado, 1 Pear, 1/2 bag of gummy worms, 2 bgas of Welches gummys, 1/2 bag of jerky, 1 Mountain House.
Time: 8 hours
Distance: 19.8 miles
Accumulated Gain: ~700 feet (loss of 2,200 feet)
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges Copper Spur UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Once again I found myself on a Friday post-work drive to a trailhead. This time my buddy Stevo was gracious enough to help me set up the shuttle trek which put me in position to take down two sections of the AZT in one weekend! The plan was to drive to Sunflower first and dump my truck. I would then hop in his car and we would circumvent the Four Peaks Wilderness back to “the Bridge” on the west side of Roosevelt Lake, where it feeds the Apache, Canyon, and Saguaro Lakes via the Salt River.
View over Roosevelt from the trail (Click to enlarge)
All was going to plan as we pulled up to the trailhead just an hour before sunset. We said our farewells and I stood there, backpack heavy and trekking poles in hand, knowing I had no other choice but to trek 40 miles on the AZT back to my truck. It’s a funny feeling sometimes when you go backpacking, knowing you have to survive with only what is on your back. Funny, but also liberating!
Vinyard 131, lets get to work!
I took my first steps on the AZT at Vineyard Trail #131, anxious to get started. The trail took no time at all getting some quick gain up over the lake for some gorgeous sunset views. I pushed in just over a mile before I found a relatively flat spot just west of Vineyard Mountain (not much to choose from out here) to camp and plopped for the night. On the way I figured I would touch off on Inspiration Point to get a nice 360 degree view of the lake and mountains to come, totally worth the side trip! With the tent set up and camp made for the night, I watched the sun set over the lake. What a view!
Sunset from Inspiration Point (Click to enlarge)
Sunrise, from camp overlooking Roosevelt Lake
The alarm blasted in my ear, as usual, waking me from my peaceful slumber signaling the time to get moving! Packing up camp in a zombie-like state (its pretty much a brainless task from continued repetition at this point), before I knew it I was already throwing my pack on my back, ready to start the first of two 20 mile days. I pushed out and up a hill as the sun rose, and once again in regular fashion, it took no time to hit some good gain!
Getting moving, looking back at the sunrise
The trail was lined with freshly blooming yellow flowers, and for a moment I started singing in my head “follow the yellow brick r….” Nope! I’m not going to have that song stuck in my head the rest of the day! I kept tracking on the Vineyard Trail not really knowing what to expect. At first, the trail paralleled the Salt River, high above in the morning before taking a northerly sweep, until finally finding its way through the saguaros jetting up from the grass-fed landscape surrounding the trail. The trail was awesome and I had it all to myself!
Yellow wild flowers, dont mind the thumb in the lower corner =)
Hiking further in, the Salt River dumbing into Apache Lake from Roosevelt
I kept trekking through the morning deeper into the desert, crossing open fields, and just taking in the views. I came across a dirt road, which the AZT followed just briefly before springing back on its own single track. I hiked on, up and though the fields, stumbling upon wild plants, wildflowers, and the occasional wild life. Once again I came upon a road, but this time it was a dead end and a large AZT sign stood next to the trailhead. I had made it to Mills Ridge trailhead! By that time the sun had risen pretty high and the temps had started creeping up, which of course was just in time for the trail to take off in the vertical! Up through high desert grass and Manzanita I pushed, my head down, fighting through the gain and the weight of the pack on my back. It couldn’t last forever, I knew, and finally the trail leveled off. I dropped down into a small canyon, finding a small flowing Buckhorn creek trickling by, and stopped for a much needed rest.
My Target, from a far, 4 peaks!
On Vineyard trail, just before Mills Ridge (click to enlarge)
Mills Ridge Trailhead, the trail really took off after this
Listening to the cool creek trickle by made me forget about the sun beating down on my head as I opened a bag of Quinoa and began munching down. Snack time is always welcome on the trail, everything always seems to taste that much better when you are on a long haul. I knew I couldn’t sit there all day though, so I stood, threw my food back in my pack, and pushed up the next ridge. I caught glimpses of Roosevelt Lake as a hit a few switchbacks, it seemed so far away now. I popped up over another ridge and saw my first real sights of Four Peaks. They were poking out from the hills ahead as though it were playing peek-a-boo. All I thought was “I’m coming for you fellas!”.
Peek-a-boo! Here I come!
I was up in the best of the Manzanita at this point, skirting the mountains, not another soul in sight. I turned a corner and saw pines and it put a big grin on my face! I was getting closer to my goal and I decided to take another quick break. Looking up, I watched a few screeching eagles circling back and forth overhead. I figured there must have been a nest nearby, and I continued to rest in the shade of the pines. Being outside all day by yourself brings you to a good calm place, and sometimes you need to disconnect with civilization and reconnect with nature.
Trailside Cactus in bloom
Beautiful Pines! Definitely a change form the desert below
It was go time once again. I passed Black Bear Saddle, grey rock jetting up from the surrounding Manzanita, and started skirting the back side of the peaks. The trail was tight and hardly traveled, and the drop-off became more severe as I got closer to the peaks. After rounding a corner, I hit trees again and an open grass meadow. I knew I was getting closer to the end of the day’s journey. Trekking along, tired from the day, I crossed a few rolling creeks. Shake Spring was rolling well and Bear Spring had a nice trickle. As I reached Pigeon Springs though, I wished that I had filtered at one of the previous two as Pigeon wasn’t flowing. It was barely a dribble, two murky concrete troughs that had bugs, leaves, and god knows what else swimming around. I had trekked too far to go back, though, so I selected the lesser of the two evils and filtered. That “tasty” flavor came through a little bit, but flowing water in Arizona is hard to come by and I was grateful to get what I could!
Getting closer
Nearing the final skirt
I set up camp just a half mile up from the spring. I didn’t want to be right next to a water source just in case some wildlife came in late for a sip. Exhausted, I fixed up a mountain house and had a small fire in a nearby pit. I didn’t see a soul all day, and I couldn’t have been happier. I bedded down after my meal and crashed like a tranquilized wildebeest. It was a long day, but the trip was only half over. I love Arizona, and the Arizona Trail is a great way to really experience what it has to offer.
Oh Sunrise, how awesome you are!
Get get moving, lots of trail left to cover!
Just peeking over the horizon is one of the 4 peaks!
Hello friends!
Manzanita rules here, gahh
Getting closer boys!
Skirting the backside of the peaks
Four Peak Wilderness baby!
Push on!
Very cool flowers!
Wild flowers galore!
Pretty in Purple!
AZT Baby!
Wierd bean looking things, was cool to see!
Screaming eagle high, circling my head!
Getting into high dester and into some trees!
Bloomin cacti
Finally a little cover!
I made it! Section 20 complete! Pigeon Springs trailhead
The road leading the the Pigeon Springs trailhead.
Food: 1 Power Bar, 1 Clif Builder Bar, 1 Granola Bar, 1 Protien bars, 1 Clif Bars, 1 Kind Bars, 1/2 bag of pringles, 1/2 bag of trail mix, 1 bag of Quinoa, 1 Oatmeal, 1/2 Avocado, 1 Pear, 1/2 bag of gummy worms, 2 bgas of Welches gummys, 1/2 bag of jerky, 1 Mountain House.
Time: 10 hours
Distance: 19.5 miles
Accumulated Gain: 7,000 feet
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges Copper Spur UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
My buddy Stevo’s Trail Runners – Instagram: stephensmr2
I’m sure all of you have seen the minimal pack wearing, bright shiny shoes wearing, sport glasses and bandana having shirtless (a good portion of the time) trail runners galloping past most hikers on any given trail. By that opener, you could probably guess that I am no trail runner. I’m just not built for it, and I don’t have the love for it like some, but if challenged I will rise to the occasion.
Gaspin in the Aspen – One of many trail running events you can sign up for (sometimes its nice to have a goal to work towards)
Back in the spring, my buddy Rene invited me to a race called “Gaspin’ in the Aspen” up in Flagstaff, AZ, which will take place this weekend. Having plenty of time to prep, I accepted the invitation and signed up. As previously stated, I’m not a trail runner, but I’ll fill you in on a few secrets I’ve learned during the course of my short training period.
Secret 1: It takes only 3 skills to trail run: throttle control, obstacle tracking, and pushing through the pain!
Throttle Control – Pull back if the grade is too steep to maintain a jog
Throttle Control – When I trail run, I try and keep a running pace going the entire time. When I hit a tough grade, I try to pull the throttle back as far as I can without actually slowing to a walk or hiking pace. It’s like climbing a hill in a “granny gear” (lowest gear) in your car… you may not be going fast, but you’re still making progress. With most people, even running in your “granny gear” is faster than a hiking pace in the long run. When you get to an easier grade or a downhill, you can open back up a little more or even crank her wide open.
Obtacles – Some trails are more chunky than others – Squaw Peak
Obstacle tracking – Keep a look out far ahead of you to know what the grade will be like and anticipate it. Use your energy efficiently and wisely, you don’t want to run wide open on a downhill if you have a steep ascent right after. At the same time, be sure to use your immediate scanning skills to make sure you don’t trip on a rock or root, or run yourself right off the trail to avoid an obstacle. Alternately scanning near and far constantly will keep you on your feet and knowing what is to come so you can keep your run going.
Adriiiiiiaaaannnnnn!!!!
Push through the pain – You will get to a point where the grade seems to be too much to run it. Don’t give up! Keep pushing little by little, using your throttle control to ease the pace, and before you know it you’ll find yourself at the break. People are always underestimating their limits, and you’ll surprise yourself by digging deep and not backing down to the challenge!
Secret 2: There is no special gear.
You don’t need magical $200 shoes, or a backpack made from space-age materials, or shorts bright enough to need sunglasses just to look at. Just throw on a hiking boot or regular ol’ running shoe, grab your raggedy backpack from high school, put on the shorts you just mowed the lawn in yesterday, and get out there and get after it. Sure there are the $200 shoes designed specifically for trail running, and they do help a little, but at the end of the day it’s not the shoe that makes a trail runner. It’s taking the first step off the couch and onto the trail that gets you there (granted you’ll probably new lighter gear down the line if you really love trail running).
Camelback Mountain – Phoenix AZ elevation profile plot
Just recently, I trekked up Camelback Mountain (Phoenix AZ), a pretty steep grade at 1000 feet altitude per mile, and put these a few of these secrets to the test. About ¾ of the way up in 105 degree heat I just plain ran out of steam and had to switch back to hiking. Nonetheless, throttling back and pushing through a few of the steeper parts really made all the difference in how I felt about the run overall. I never thought I’d make it even that far up the mountain running the entire way. Get out there and keep pushing the limits, you may surprise yourself!
I don’t talk about safety a whole lot in my posts, but I do mention that many times I am out on these treks solo. The saying goes “You should never hike alone”. For the most part I totally agree with this philosophy, you should always hike with a partner! In my case, however, it is sometimes hard to find someone willing to go on the types of treks I am interested in (interest, physical capability, suffer capacity, schedule conflicts, you name it). I choose to go against convention and hike alone at times because I have found that if I were to wait on someone else, I’d be at home on the couch, wondering what views, experiences, and adventure I was missing out there on the trail.
Little worn, but still works awesome!
In those rare occasions that you do find yourself heading out there alone, the next best thing to having a hiking partner is the SPOT tracker. There are many great features to the tracker (I have the Gen3), such as having your family and friends at home track your progress via GPS. You can also send simple pre-setup messages, and the tracker will provide confirmation that the messages have in fact sent.
The most significant feature is of course the safety part with the “Help” and “S.O.S.” buttons. “Help” sends a message to a select few people that you determine that pretty much says “Come get me outta here, I’m not dying, but I’m stuck/ran out of gas/food/etc!” The “S.O.S” button sends a message to the cavalry to come get you by any means necessary, and they (GEOS) will pick you up anywhere in the world. Of course it will be a little hard to pick you up if you wind up stranded in say, North Korea, but they work with local rescue and even go as far as contacting the embassy and consulate of the registered owners’ nation of citizenship in efforts to get assistance out to the location. At any rate, nomatter where you are hiking, hike smart! A little piece of mind can go a long way to push your treks further and harder to see new things you never could before!
View From camp at 12,200 feet the afternoon before the climb
My stomach flip flopped as we pulled up to the Blanca Peak trailhead. I am not the biggest fan of sitting in the backseat of vehicles, and something about not being the pilot just throws me into nauseous spins. As the truck came to a stop, I threw open the door and practically fell out of the truck. Feet were finally back on the ground! My buddy Stevo, his gal Annalise, and I decided to go to CO for a week and explore the outdoors. Stevo was from Durango and wanted to go back to his mother land, see some family, and show Annalise around his old stomping grounds. Of course I was there to hunt down a few 14ers. We were about 5 days into the trip and sitting in the truck for longer than a few hours had me begging for a bag on my back and some good trail time. I planned on backpacking up towards Lake Como and sleeping for the night, then waking the next morning and attempting to take on Little Bear Peak ( ft.), Blanca Peak (14,345 ft.), and Ellingwood Point (14,042 ft.). I would then return the same way I came and grab a ride back to camp with Stevo’s family at The Great Sand Dunes National Park.
The start of the climb, the road gets pretty chunky from here
I wasn’t much in a talkative mood as I slowly gathered my things, my stomach still performing acrobatic feats. It was pretty warm at 2pm, but even in the heat I pulled on my long sleeve smartwool shirt and long pants (rolled up of course) because I knew the temps up at 12,000 feet where I would be camping and hiking would prove to be much cooler. Pack strapped, glasses on, and trekking poles in hand I waved goodbye to Stevo and Annalise and headed up the boulder covered dirt road that lead to Lake Como. Chunky and hot describes well the climb to the tune of 3,900 feet gain in 5.5 miles with a 30 pound backpack on. There was no one else around as I climbed through the high desert surroundings. The road snaked back and forth across the face of the mountain, every once in a while giving glimpse to the peaks above.
We Cant Stop Here . . . Its Bear Country!
Finally I pushed up into canopy cover which was a relief from the sun beaming on my head. There was an inviting creek crossing the road where I paused a moment to take in the sight. I dipped my hand into the cool creek and threw some in my mouth to wash around before spitting it out and pushing on. The last thing I needed was to get sick on the way up to altitude. I felt something wet hit my shoulder. I glanced up into the sky and watched a cloud rolling in full force, just starting to dump a bit of rain on my head. I quickly pulled my raincoat and pack cover out. Thunderstorms in CO afternoons at altitude have never been my favorite (lightning at alt = no bueno). As quickly as the rain came, it moved on, much to my enjoyment.
Clouds forming as I climbed
Finally pushing into the trees before it started to rain on me
I hiked on for a few more miles to the entrance of the upper valley that houses Lake Como. Another beautiful place! High pines surrounded the lake, shading the area and giving shelter to the bears in the area (according to all the warning signs on the trees). I hiked around the lake looking for a suitable camp to stop for the night when I ran into two other backpackers, Doug and Stacy. They were all smiles and in the middle of cooking dinner as I walked into their camp. They were there for the summit as well and had brought their 2 kids with them (14 and 10 years old). What an awesome little family unit! Doug had mountaineered for some years and now that the youngest was old enough, he was pushing them all to new heights and experiences!
Lake Como, getting closer now!
Skirting around Como towards camp
Doug had done Little Bear Peak in the past and knew about the sketchball upper Class 4 traverse to Blanca Peak. “It’s a little sketchy, and I heard about a guy bringing climbing shoes for the traverse” he told me. This didn’t boost my confidence at all. On top of that, the clouds overhead didn’t look the best for summit, and I had heard the only time you should do Little Bear is in perfect weather.
Beautiful lush green flora around Como
I said my goodbyes and pressed further up past Como to one of the smaller lakes. The tall trees around Lake Como were all but gone and only short hip high shrub remained. I set up my tent and made dinner. The marmots here were relentless and practically walked up and tapped me on my shoulder asking me for handouts. After finishing my Mountainhouse meal I threw all my food into 1 bag and piled it under a large stack of rocks (no trees to hang food from), gambling that no bears would come up this far and marmots weren’t strong enough to move the rocks. As I got ready for bed I watched marmots run up to the rock stack, sniffing furiously at the contents below. If they got to my food I would have to turn back and couldn’t summit the next morning. I crossed my fingers and went to bed.
Higher into the Alpine I pushed, the trees turned to shrubs
Waking early at 4 am to rain on my tent I prepped my bag and stuffed water and snacks for the day in. Searching, searching . . . no headlamp. What a bonehead move! After checking everything, I realized I must have left it in Stevo’s truck after using it the night before. Welp, I had to make the best of it. I set my alarm for 5am and went back to sleep. Beep beep beep, lets try this again! Sleeping at 12,200 is always tough but I had to get motivated. I saw a few headlamps in the distance which could only be Doug and crew, but the light was just enough to see without one so I leapt from my tent and took off. The trail climbed up the large waterfall feeding the small lake I camped next to. At the top of the fall I met up with Doug and family who were all smiles, even the kids, pushing up a huge peak in the dark. After quick greetings I pressed on.
Time to get moving, upward, into the cloud!
After the waterfall was the summit plateau, which housed another small glacier lake and the final trail to the col/saddle between Ellingwood Point and Blanca Peak. The only thing that stood between me and the ridgeline was a large frozen snow field. No ice axe, great! I crossed the snow carefully and made it safely to the rocks on the other side. Pushing up from here, after some searching I found the trail. Switchback central! The sun was just lighting up the sky enough to see that I was hiking into a thick cloud clinging to the top of the peaks. The rocks were wet and slick, every step was critical. Up and up I went until finally reaching the col/saddle where a large cairn stood. Left to Ellingwood, or right to Blanca? Ellingwood was a Class 3 traverse I was anxious to see, so left it was!
Large cairn at the Ridge, at the split to Ellingwood and Blanca
I followed the cairns across the ridgeline towards the first peak of the day. The looming cloud prevented me from seeing out past more than 10 feet in front of me. Scrambling up, down, and traversing I continued to route find. I skirted rock faces looking down into the cloud not knowing if it were a 10 foot drop for 100. No matter, just don’t fall! After half an hour I finally made it to the home stretch. Out of breath and tired from the ascent, I carefully pulled myself to peak! I stood up giving it a quick 360, nothing but whiteout conditions! Then on my way back down to the ridge for a brief second the clouds gave way and opened up, so I snapped pictures as quick as I could before they closed back in around me. It was a short celebration, and fearing the weather could turn on me, I scrambled back down across the traverse to the base of Blanca.
Views to the West from just below Ellingwood Point (click to enlarge)
Views to the East from just below the Ellingwood Point (click to enlarge)
I made it back to the large cairn and started pushing up Blanca. Blanca was a decent Class 2 with a few scrambles here and there, but much less threatening than Ellingwood Point. I climbed through the clouds again upwards towards the peak, and in the distance I heard voices. It was Doug and crew once again, going for their summit bid of the day! I caught up with them and pushed to the peak together. His kids were doing surprisingly well under the low oxygen, wet, whiteout conditions. Finally we reached peak, every step was well worth it! I snapped a few pictures for them and headed back down the way I came.
Looking back down the chute to the valley below (click to enlarge)
Climbing down the waterfall just above the small lake I camped next to (click to enlarge)
Views of Lake Como as I headed down (click to enlarge)
On the way down I finally dropped out of the clouds and saw bluebird skies over the valley below, giving me some hope for the return hike. I reached camp, broke it down, packed it up, and with trekking poles in hand headed back down the mountain. I was surprised at the number of people pushing up the mountain into the clouds so late in the afternoon. I wished them luck and dropped back down into the warm of the valley below. As I hiked west I watched this wall of clouds just dumping rain across the fields below. It was time to move! I picked up the pace and barely made it to the car before we were covered in a downpour! What another awesome adventure! Tired, smelly, and grinning ear to ear I rested in the backseat headed for the Dunes with another story to tell. It’s a beautiful country we live in, get outside and see it sometime!
Pushing up to the valley where the Lake Como resides
getting closer!
Apparently Bears dont mess around here
Brief view of the valley below form the ridge
Smaller Pool above Lake Como
Glacier Lakes from the ridge above
Into the trees!
Skirting Como
The mist and Fog above on the ridge, a cairn guides my way
Beautiful Blue Butterfly (never seen one of these before)
Weather: Hi 70s, Low in the lower 50s, Cloud cover, Fog, Sparse Rain, Partially Sunny, Slightly windy
Water: 6 liters (2 days)
Food: 4 protien bars, 2 Clif Bars, 2 Granola bars, 2 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Mountain House, instant mashed potatoes, 1 bag black forest gummies, 1 bag of trailmix, 1 Twix bar, Bag of salt and vinegar chips, 2 plums
Time: 2 Days (Hiking time – 5 hours, Day 1; 12 hours, Day 2)
Distance: 6 miles day 1, 12 miles day 2.
Accumulated Gain: 7,000 feet
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
MULE Camelback
Big Anges Copper Spur UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
We usually save the best for last don’t we? A group of buddies (Mike, Stevo, and Adrien) and I decided to trek to Zion National Park in southwestern Utah in search for adventure. On our last day we had permits to The Subway, a rock formation on the Left Fork of North Creek residing on the west side of the park, far from the main valley of Zion. There are two ways to visit The Subway, one as a technical canyoneering route from the top down, or a non-technical hike from the bottom up. Due to time restraints for the day we decided to hike from the bottom up, and we weren’t disappointed!
Just before the drop off into the creek
We woke early and packed our camp up, piled into our vehicles, and headed west down Highway 9 towards Virgin, where we would turn north down the open road to the trailhead. Utah is such a beautiful place. An open landscape with orange and red rock plateaus to the right, small plateau mounds to the left, and rolling hills ahead lead us to our turnoff. Bluebird, virtually cloudless skies welcomed us on the winding road through farm fields to the dirt pull off for the trailhead.
Pushing up the canyon, the sun peaks over the red rocks
Once we pulled in there were a couple of park rangers that told us there was a guy down below that hurt his leg and couldn’t hike out so they were going to arrange a helo to come up and grab him. Little things like this always make me nervous before a hike, like bad juju or something. It didn’t help the fact that Stevo had been complaining about his knee having troubles as the weekend progressed and he put more miles on it. Brushing it off we pushed down the trail with excitement to see The Subway at the end of our 3.5 mile hike. The trail took a dive-bomb off the rim down into the canyon! Loose gravel dominated the trail as it twisted and turned dropping 600 feet to the creek below.
Green, blue, and red, colors were gorgeous
In the bottom the light was perfect. We hiked northeast up the canyon and it was early enough that the sun just lit up the canopies above in golden light. We crossed back and forth over the creek, boulder hopping, traversing sandy creek banks, and large rock faces obstacles. Turn after turn there was something interesting to see. Soon the canyon began to change. The tall walls from afar started to close in and you could see the impact of water high up from long ago where it carved the rock face smooth. Miniature waterfalls and small swimming pools dotted the landscape, and the lush green canopy continued to slowly close in to shade us from the sun above. The creek began to flow over large stepped slickrock steps, creating mini falls, and we were forced to walk down the creek in the thin layer of water over the slickrock.
Slickrock began to take over the bottom of the creek as it began to widen and the depth of the creek thinned
The canyon curled right and we finally entered the first area where it was no longer a typical creek bed canyon and the rock formations became more predominant. The water cut away, shaped, and formed everything around us. The small cascading falls became larger and taller causing us to climb around on the tree covered sides to bypass. Long smoothed-over cracks were found in areas of the slickrock, as well as small circular holes called potholes where the water pooled and flowed through. I can only speculate that upon formation, these areas had less dense rock which was eaten away by erosion causing the beautiful formations we were surrounded by.
Looking down the last turn towards The Subway
We finally reached the last turn before The Subway and we all gathered together before pushing on so we could all see it at once. What a view! It looked as though the water tunneled straight through solid rock to form a Subway tube through the bottom of the canyon. It was strange how cylindrical the formation was, nothing else around was like it except in this one tight spot in the canyon the perfect conditions came together to create this remarkable place. We pushed to the back of the Subway where a few consecutive deep pools awaited. One after another we hopped in and waded in the cold 50 degree water that came chest deep, just to make it to the Key Hole waterfall in the back. Mike jumped in, taking a brisk shower in the falls. Wheeeww boy was it cold!
The Subway
Past The Subway just before the KeyHole waterfall
Soon after we all returned to the Subway, all smiles. It’s amazing how some places can totally regenerate you. All the exhaustion of the day is just lifted form your shoulders and you are ready to get back to it. This is one of those places. Although I am not the largest fan of the permit system, I can respect it for protecting this very special place from being overrun and overused. At any rate, it was a beautiful day and we got to see something special. We returned the way we came without incident, piled in our cars, and headed home. This adventure for this weekend was over, until the next one!
Heading down the trail from the top
Boulder hopping time
Morning glow on the canopy
little bit of everything, beautiful views
creek lays out in large pools in places
cool log on the way
Hello crack!
beginning of the slickrock falls
more goodness
large 6 foot fall towards the end of the hike (click to enlarge)
Half Dome viewed from Glacier Point, photo credit: wikipedia – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glacier_Point#/media/File:Glacier_Point_at_Sunset,_Yosemite_NP,_CA,_US_-_Diliff.jpg
We woke early, just before daybreak, and started stoking a fire for breakfast. A few friends (Mike, Kenneth, Eroica, Greg, Thomas, Manuel, and Jake) and I had decided to take a weekend of exploration in Yosemite. For me, Yosemite was a bucket list item and I was super excited to finally have the opportunity to experience it. This day was especially exciting as we planned to hike to the top of Half Dome, the most recognized formation of the valley.
Lets get started!
Master Chef Mike got on the grill and before long we were all fed, dressed, and packed up for the day’s hike. We were camped just outside the park so we all piled into a couple of cars and took off towards Half Dome trailhead for our 16 mile round trip journey to the summit. Driving into the park took some time, winding in and out on the entrance road until the views finally opened up to huge granite walls bathed in morning light and lush green foliage lining the roadside. We pulled in and grabbed the first open spot we could. In the shade the temps in the bottom of the valley were cool, and in my shorts and t-shirt I moved quickly to fight off the chill.
Next footbridge past Happy Isles, the river was crashing hard here!
Soon we walked over the Happy Isles Bridge crossing the Merced River that feeds the valley. This also just so happened to be the start of the JMT, let’s just say I was really excited all around! We crossed another foot bridge and paused for a moment to stare upstream in awe. The river was fierce and crashed down the sides of the riverbank with a violent force that demanded nothing but respect for its pure power. We trekked on and, as always, the group of 8 began to slowly string out. As we all stopped for a quick water refill and a bathroom break before really getting into the hike, Greg said he has going to trek ahead. Off he went, and before long we soon followed.
View from the footbridge above, nature is such a beast!
Mike and I soon pulled away from the group too as the incline began to increase, but we didn’t notice as we were both too awestruck by the views of the woods around us and the river flowing nearby. We took a slight divergence from the JMT to go up the Mist Trail. We trekked on and up the granite steps and were soon blasted with a huge mist from Vernal Falls. The sun was shining through and creating a breathtaking rainbow making the whole experience that much more surreal. We stopped and just took the whole thing in as we were getting sprayed by the falls above. The trail really went to work after this, almost going straight vertical to climb above the falls. Up and up we went until one last switchback brought us to the head of a gorgeous fall. Mike said, “I’ll wait here on the others as they don’t have a map and don’t know the way.” All smiles as usual I headed on alone.
Vernal Falls from Mist trail
Pushing up to the top of Vernal Falls
I’ve always enjoyed hiking in groups, but sometimes it’s nice to just pull away and enjoy the trail on your own. I pressed on, up the Mist Trail, through the cool forest until I came upon another set of falls; Nevada Falls. Turn after turn the beauty of this place was unquestionable. That matched with the challenge of the hike really kept be going until finally I reached the junction where I would rejoin the JMT to find Greg chilling out on a rock on the entrance of Little Yosemite Valley. Like a lizard he was just zenning out, having a nice little rest before taking on the next leg of the trek. I plopped down and grabbed a quick snack and we chatted about the trail below.
Little Yosemite Valley . . . hmm which way to go?!
Greg, like me, really likes to get after it on the trail and we decided to press on, knowing the group would eventually catch up at Half Dome. Through the flats of Yosemite Valley, the foliage and terrain began to change. We were above 5000 feet now and as we got away from the river we entered an area where pinion pine reigned supreme. The tall red barked trees sparkly shaded us from the sun as we pushed quickly towards the base of Half Dome. A new turn would open up to the valley below or views of the snow-dusted Sierras peaks in the distance. We took a few moments to take in each new view before pushing on and up. We were both ready to get to the top as the sun beat down on our heads.
The trees were gorgeous, light hitting the moss, was just spectacular!
At the base we encountered 2 Park Rangers with an iPad checking permit holder names like a couple of bouncers at a club. My name was on the list and we grinned as the red rope was taken back and we pressed hard up the steep backbone of the dome. Steep and fast our hearts were thumping at full throttle when the infamous “chains” came into view. The line of people looked like ants in the distance and I was excited to take on the last extremely steep and slick 400 foot climb to the summit of the dome. The line was almost stagnant between the chains; some clutching the metal bars holding up the chains, other stalled waiting for someone to pass or move forward.
Half Dome! Those are not ants, they are people!
Clutching to the chains like life depended on it . . . well it kind of does here
Greg looked at me and said “man, let just go, popping his head under, pulling up and climbing on the outside of the chains to gain summit. People looked at us like madmen as we passed, some full of fear in their eyes and others with frustration for the wait ahead, but they all were too cautious to take to the outside of the chains. Light lightning we were up, politely excusing ourselves to the climbers stuck between that chains as we bypassed them, all until the crowd grew thin and the grade finally flattened out. We were only steps from the summit! Touching the top at the same time we claimed summit and took in the incredible views. Of course it was picture time, we took turns, walking to the edge, climbing out on diving board rocks and staring down the sheet walls of the front of Half Dome at the valley below.
Views from the top! What an awesome sight!
After the picture session was over, we both chilled out and had a nice 20 minute nap before finally heading back down to the base. On our way down we ran into the rest of the group on their way up. Greeting them with smiles we encouraged them that the chains ahead were not too bad and the sights at the top were pure beauty so they headed on. At the base Thomas and Mike waited for their chance to summit as they were short 2 permits. Mike found a permit opportunity, and soon after Thomas did as well. I headed back up once more with Thomas to make sure the last of our group could enjoy the views at the top.
Views of the river upstream of the falls before it turns into a raging washer machine, Thomas did a little swimming here on our way back!
Nevada Falls on the return hike down the JMT
Once down, we regrouped and headed back the way we came back to the trailhead where our cars waited on us. What a beautiful day! Any day spent outside in the beauty of nature really makes me appreciate and enjoy the opportunities I’ve been given, especially at such an incredible place as Yosemite. Get out there, and if you do, it will blow your mind!
When I stepped onto a plane headed for Alaska I had no idea what to expect, nor did I know much of an impact it would have on me. It is undoubtedly the Last Frontier! My buddy Brendan has lived in Alaska for 4 years now while serving in the US Air force. In his off time he somehow found himself amongst the mountains and was soon honing his skills to become a darn good mountaineer! Ice climbing, snow climbing, rock climbing… you name it, he’s got the credentials. So I couldn’t resist when he invited me to visit and take on a few treks with him!
trekking towards Eagle Lake, mountains peaking out from the back
The wheels of the plane chirped on the runway as the plane touched down. I had finally reached Anchorage and would soon have my feet on dirt in this legend-(wait for it!)-dary place. Brendan met me at the gate all smiles and let me know that all the plans were set for the next day. We were to take on Eagle Peak of the Chugach State Park, just outside Anchorage, a sprawling range of approximately 495,000 acres of land and one of the four largest state parks in the United States. I was awe struck by the mountains surrounding the city, even on the flight in, and my first impression seeing the light dance off the peaks was “I have found the promise land!”
Another small lake as we get closer and closer to camp
The next afternoon Brendan, Ryan (a local friend of his), and I let out, headed for Eagle Lake to set up base camp for the weekend ahead. My head was constantly on a swivel, looking left, right, up, and down, taking in all the views as my curiosity was raised by the snow-capped peaks in the distance. As we hiked the 4 miles approaching Eagle Lake, we strolled through beautiful creek ridden grassland until Eagle Peak finally came into view. What an intimidating beast! It stood tall and covered with snow on its north side, just daring us to make a summit bid. We met Nathan, another seasoned mountaineer, at a small shack at the head of Eagle and Symphony Lakes and chose a spot to bed down before the big push the next day. We all cooked up our freeze-dried meals, took in the 11:30pm sunset, and gazed up at the unknown adventure to come.
Finally a view of Eagle Peak looming over Eagle Lake, just down from our camp
It was a bit early in the season to take on the peak, but with the mild winter conditions were favorable, although the unspoken threat of avalanche loomed over us. We woke early; the sun was still up due to the long 20 hour days in Alaska this time of year. We cooked breakfast, packed our gear, and were soon heading up the valley that would serve as the approach route to the “gully” eventually leading to the peak.
Let trek on! No idea what this plant is, but it looked cool!
The valley was fed by snow runoff which was a nice crisp, cold temperature, undoubtedly in the 40s. I strapped my trail runners on, wanting to keep my waterproof boots dry for the push up the mountain. At our first creek crossing I plunged my foot in, pain immediately shot up my legs as they were submerged shin deep in the creek. The pain died as the cold water numbed my senses, but soon enough I was on the other side and the pain returned with a vengeance. Nathan was strapped up with mountaineering boots, Brendan with some Gore-Tex throw offs, and Ryan with some running shoes. I suddenly felt unprepared for 40 degree creek crossings, but I knew this would only last a short while. Before long we would be at the headwall of the waterfall feeding the valley where I would be strapping on my own dry, warm, waterproof boots (or at least that’s what I told myself).
Overlooking the flooded valley as we began to ascend the head wall, you can see Brendan, Nathan, and Ryan in the lower left of this picture
We weaved in and out, across the creek, through bushwhack thickets, until finally reaching the last crossing where we decided to take a break. Relieved, I put on my boots, grabbed a quick snack, and rejoined the guys ready for the next challenge. We finally reached some good gain and I was thrilled as I went to work against it. My original plan was to avoid the snow all together up the headwall to the valley to the canyon above, but soon found that Brendan and the other guys had different plans.
looking up towards the head wall and the creek making the waterfalls that fed the flooded valley below
Ice axes in hand (using them as an anchor stuck in the snow), I watched as the guys kicked in steps across a large angled snow patch, making the traverse look easy as pie. Never having to deal with snow of this magnitude myself (hard to come by in the Arizona desert), looking down the snowy 40 degree slope ending abruptly in sharp rocks admittedly made me a bit nervous. I plunged the axe into the snow and kicked my first steps. One after another, I tried to take it slow and easy so as not to go skating down to certain injury. I kept my eyes on the snow, and slowly but surely made it to the other side. Whew, safety of the rocks never felt so good!
Above the head wall, the snow covered bowl that would eventually lead us to the base of the “gully”
We pressed on up the headwall into the snow covered bowl above where the large sub-surface creek flowed, feeding the valley below. We pushed across the snow pack, plunging our ice axes in to search for weaknesses in the pack, before finally coming to a thin snow bridge that traversed the creek. Brendan cautiously probed the bridge for strength. Encouraged by the lack of collapse, he took the first step across . . . success! The bridge held and Ryan and Nathan followed suit, stepping over like it was solid ground. Soon we were all across, now debating the route up the bowl which would lead us the base of the southern gully, the path we planned to utilize for our summit bid.
Slim Ice Bridge! Nathan beasting it across
Pushing up yet another snow-covered slope, we finally found ourselves looking up the southern chute which had some small avalanche sign. This was anything but confidence building, so we decided to push up the snow on the edge for safety. As we made our way up the aggressive incline, we decided to split up to check out two different routes. Brendan and I would take to the cliffs on the left while Nathan and Ryan would look at a snow pinch, putting them just below a cascading waterfall that ran down the gully. Brendan and I quickly found ourselves pushing class 4 moves and gaining some traction up the steep beast. Meanwhile Nathan and Ryan found themselves dangerously close to a slip crack, an early sign of a large avalanche that could spell utter disaster for our entire group. In the interest of safety, they returned to the cliffs find their own route past the pinch and back into the safety of the gully.
Ascending the side of the snow covered bowl, man i would hate to fall down that without an ice ax!
Nathan and Ryan discovering the slip crack, and immediately going towards the safety of the rocks!
After they caught up, we started poking away at what seemed to be never ending cliff bands. Obstacle after obstacle we would attempt to circumvent either via a class 4 low class 5 climb or getting in the snow chute traveling towards the edge hoping for the best. This was slow work but soon we found ourselves pinched down in the final snow/scree chute just before the summit. Brendan and I pushed up first and Ryan and Nathan followed suit. Nathan accidentally pushed into the fresh snow with a boot. As it began to give way, he hollered up “Watch out!” We looked down and just below his seemingly innocent footstep the snow began to move, gaining momentum and girth as it flowed down the mountain. The snow picked up rocked and dirt, flinging them downwards to the chute below. We were all quiet for a moment before Nathan stated what we were all thinking: “Yeah, I think we should stick to the rocks as much as possible.”
careful steps!
Back into the scree we went, pushing on and up until finally meeting the col and the final ridge to the peak! The sights were incredible; we could see all the way back to camp and many miles further into the snow covered Chugach Park. All smiles, we scaled the homestretch and summited together! Breaking out snacks and taking pictures, we took time to enjoy our hard work. From the peak we heard numerous avalanches in the distance crashing down the steep faces of the surrounding mountains. Every once in a while we could spot them from a far and nervously watched as they covered the base of the routes below. Knowing the day was only half complete, we packed up and headed back down.
Just above the col! Views of Eagle Lake below, we are almost there!!!
Summit baby! Well deserved!
We had learned our lesson and stuck to the rocks, challenging the cliff bands to keep us safe. Ryan took the lead, and soon gained the nickname “3up5down”. His seemingly nervousness on some of the up climbs was nowhere in sight as he lead us down some easily class 5 routes. As slowly and safely as possible we scrambled down the rock faces, which always had some large penalty for failure. Once or twice we broke out a 60 ft piece of 7mm rope which came in handy down some of 3up5down’s route selections!
One of the tamer scramble downclimbs
Finally we reached the snow chute near the bottom of the gully. Brendan looked at me and said “you may have to come dig me out” just before plopping on his butt above a good 50 yard slope. He slid with ease, looking as giddy as a kid on a sled in the first snowfall of winter. We all followed suit and were soon safely down at the base of the chute. At the bottom of the gully, the angle of the slope decreased and cradled the glissade which was a lot safer than attempting this move on the higher, steeper slopes. After this little bit of fun we gathered back together and crossed the snow bowl, the headwall, the flooded valley, and the edge of Eagle Lake before finally making it back to camp. What a long but glorious day!
Sunset as we returned to camp
Proud of our accomplishments, we all plopped down, made food, and began to get ready to rest for the night. That is, all but Nathan. Nathan, the trooper that he was after taking on a huge mountain, had to pack up camp and walk the 4 miles out to his truck, drive home, and get in bed so he could be at work the next morning. What a guy! Alaska is truly a wild land, untamed and raw, and nothing was easy about the day’s trek, but after all that we encountered you realize that its what makes it so beautiful and fulfilling.
Horse skull we found about 1/2 way down the trail, just sitting on a rock
In typical fashion, we piled into the truck on a Friday afternoon and headed out in search of adventure! It was just Rene and I taking on the four hour ride to the 9500 ft. campsite on top of Mount Graham, ready to set ourselves up for the next day’s challenge. We planned a “Yo-Yo” approach for the 14 miler. We would start at the top, dump down the mountain to the base trailhead of Ash Creek Trail #307, and return the same route up taking on 4800 feet of gain. I’m always up for a good challenge!
I had never been directly east of Globe on the 60, and like a kid in a candy store I was excited to see a new part of the state. As we drove I’d say, “What’s that?!” or “Check out that mountain!” or “Man I never knew all this was out here!” For every formation I pointed out, Rene (being the awesome co-pilot he is) pulled up a map and read off the name accordingly. Mesmerized by the surrounding landscape, the time flew by and before we knew it, we were driving through a street lamp lit Stafford. The lights there were strange, unlike anything I’ve seen previously in any town. It’s as if someone was going for that “quaint, quiet little town” look, but instead it came off a little creepy, reminiscent of the dim orange lights in a coal mine. You would just have to see it for yourself!
Green lush, and mossy!
Onward! We drove out of Stafford and up the 30 mile winding road which climbed Mount Graham to the Ash Creek trailhead campground. The strange feeling from the dimly lit town stuck with us, not helped by the fact that we didn’t see one single other car on the road the whole way up. In doing the research I knew this was bear country, and as the forest trees grew in thicker around us, so too grew my excitement. It was pitch black with only the headlights to light the way, but I could tell that we would be blown away in the morning by the thick pines! We arrived at the 9500 ft. camp site to the surprise of being the only occupants. This is never a bad thing, but as we set up tents the temperature was quickly dropping. Bundled up and moving quickly, we stoked a fire and cracked a beer for a night cap before crashing. Rene had a thermometer on his watch and we both watched as it continued to plummet! 44, 38, 36, 32, 29… finally settling at 28 (and that was inside his tent)! Fighting off the chill of the night, we each got in our tents, hopped in our bags, and thought warm thoughts!
Morning view form the campsite
Waking in the morning did not disappoint! The morning light snaked its way through the thick pines and was beyond words! Oh it was still cold, so we moved quickly in the shade to pack our daypacks with food and water before heading out on the trail. It was finally time to put feet to dirt, the whole purpose of this journey!
Just a few steps into the trail and we found snow!
We started down the trail and it was like we had entered another world. Cool creeks running trailside, thick green moss clutching to fallen trees, pines and aspen standing side by side sharing the sunlight, it was absolutely incredible! Turn after turn we walked down the winding trail and continued to be impressed. On some hikes you get bombarded with the same ol’ surroundings at every turn, yet this hike was anything but. Here there was something unique to admire and look at in awe as we went along. Down and down we went, until finally popping out and coming upon a huge cascading waterfall in the canyon below. All the tributary creeks aided Ash Creek and its falls, and boy let me tell you, is was breathtaking! We stopped for some pics and a break before heading on.
Overlooking Ash Creek Falls (click to enlarge)
We would skirt the mountain for a while, drop into a canyon, and then the next thing be on switchbacks dumping us further and further down, all the while following the creek in this lush green paradise. About half way down we stumbled upon a very cool campground just below the falls, trailside, just begging for visitors. So tucked away and far from civilization, it looked like the perfect place to plop down for a day and get away from it all. After snapping another hundred pictures like the tourists, we were on our way again!
Another cascading waterfall we found down the trail below the falls, gorgeous
As we made our trek down, we found a dead skunk, a horse skull, mushrooms, and flora that would make you think you were back east in the Appalachian Mountains! Man what a beautiful place! Finally the trail spewed us out of the lush canyon back into high desert. It was so crazy how fast the landscape changed between being cradled by the green tree canopy of the canyon to being sundrenched in the barren desert. The last mile to the lower trailhead was lined with Manzanita and padded with rocks and brown dirt. We quickly powered through this section until finally being dropped onto a road where the trail began.
The open desert below the lush green canopy of the canyon
After taking in a rest and filling up on snacks, we turned and headed back up the way we came. Having taken so much time admiring the canyon on the way down, we decided to push at a hard pace to get our hearts pumping to take on the 4800 feet of vertical gain in 7 miles. It was most definitely The Beauty and The Beast (and quite easily in my top 10 favorite AZ hikes)!
Some years ago, a few geologists (namely Charles Dutton, Charles Walcott, Ian Cambel and John Maxton, amongst others) with some extra time on their hands went about naming some of the buttes, mesas, and temples that are scattered across the Grand Canyon. For many of these rock structures, they chose to name them after prominent figures across many different religions (i.e. Vishnu Temple, Shiva Temple, Rama Temple, Isis Temple, ect). This particular adventure would take us up the Temple named after Brahma, the Hindu God of creation or birth. The hike (if you can call it that) lived up to its name because I felt like a new man after!
View of Brahma Temple (left) and Zoroaster Temple (right) from the North rim (thank you internet)
Mark, Rene, and I planned to take on the Temple as a one night backpack, but had no idea what was truly in store for us. We all did our research on the trek, knew it would be pushing class 4, low class 5 in places, but at the end of the day it’s like reading a book about how to ride a bike; you just have to get out there and fall over a couple of times. The plan was to hike down South Kaibab, cut across the canyon to Clear Creek trail, head north up the crack from Sumner wash through the red wall, break up through the Supai layer, and then camp on the western arm of Zoroaster. The next day we would then hike through the Hermit Shale across the Zoroaster/Brahma saddle, skirt the base of Brahma, ascend the formation from a chute on the west side, and follow the ridgeline north to the peak. We just prayed we could get down the same way unscathed by the monstrous mountain!
View from South Kaibab as we dropped in (click to enlarge)
Friday morning was crisp and cool, just above freezing, as we prepared to drop in. I always get that Christmas morning feeling when I drop into the canyon, giddy with excitement. It’s like I’m 5 years old all over again, standing over a pile of neatly wrapped presents, blood pumping with the excitement of not knowing what’s to come. We had all hiked the canyon a few times so the descent down South Kaibab was no surprise. After a few hours, we reached Phantom Ranch and took a quick break to fill up on water that was to sustain us until the next day and into the afternoon. Sipping on lemonade from the canteen and writing some post cards to home, we were all in good spirits and ready to push onward to camp.
First glimpse of Phantom Ranch from South Kaiab
Black Bridge across the Colorado River
Why Thank you!
Start of Clear Creek trail just past Phantom Ranch
View of the river from Clear Creek (click to enlarge)
As we headed out from Phantom, the morning had finally warmed up. The added weight from the water really sunk into our shoulders as we took on the first good gain of Clear Creek trail. As we made our way up onto Sumner wash, the views from the skirting trail over the Colorado River were incredible. You could look clear up and down the river, both the black and silver bridges visible to the naked eye. After another good push, we were finally at the point to head “offtrail”. As expected the route went right to work with quick gain up the wash to the base of the crack. We were soon faced with our first obstacle: an 80 foot repel staring right back at us, daring us to climb.
View of Zoroaster from Clear Creek, Brahma hides in the back
Climb from Clear creek to the crack
Close up of the crack and exposed climb to come
After careful deliberation we decided to take an exposed ledge, hopping to the right side of the crack (which had a skin ripping rock covered with sharp tater). At the top of the ledge, there was a small 20-foot down climb that dumped us back into the crack. Whew!! We made it past the first obstacle. After that I knew that Brahma was really going to pack a punch! Not but a short 10-foot scramble later we hit the crux of the red wall crack. It was another climb that had a few options of ascent, all with troublesome penalties for failure.
20 foot downclimb after the exposed first obstacle bypass of the red wall crack
Once again we deliberated, found a route we liked, and with sweaty hands made the ascent, afterward tying off the packs and handing them up. Whew, another climb completed! After another short scramble we popped up out of the crack and made our way across the bottom side of the western Zoroaster arm. Some trail finding and a chimney crack was all that stood between us and our camp for the night. We kept reminding ourselves “slow and steady wins the race” as we methodically tackled each obstacle the climb threw at us. There was no point trying to hurry through if it meant a being taken out of commission for a while (or worse). Before we knew it we were setting up camp, boiling water for Mountain House meals, cracking jokes, and enjoying the setting sun. It was only the first day and we were all beat, ready for a good night’s sleep.
View down the Red wall crack form the top
Or so I thought…I woke in the middle of the night to the sides of the tent shaking violently! The wind ripped across the open face where we were camped, but the tent was well staked and held sturdy. Just as fast as the wind had come it dissipated, and this cycle repeated itself quite a few times through the rest of the night.
View from camp, Brahma on the left, Zoroaster on the right
Sunset from camp (click to enlarge)
Sunrise from camp (click to enlarge)
Soon, always too soon, my alarm blared, signaling the start of Day 2. Not only did we still have to summit (which was hours away from completion), but also find the energy to descend back to the river and hike out of the canyon via Bright Angel trail. We had our work cut out for us!
Slim skirt across the base of Zoroaster towards the Brahma saddle, tough penalties for a misstep
After breakfast and packing up camp we piled our camp gear off to the side in hopes that with lighter packs it would help us with our summit time. We quickly spanned the western arm and chimneyed up a 10 foot obstruction to start skirting the base of Zoroaster. The trail narrowed from a short 10 foot slope to a 300 foot sheer drop in some sections. I nervously placed one foot in front of the other, clutching tight to the trekking pole in my hand for balance, trying not to think about the consequences of a misstep. Not soon enough, we cleared the first section and it was on to the 3 obstacles in the Supai layer.
One of the Supai obstacles, easier of the three
After quickly scaling the first two, which had seemed pretty mild even without relying solely on a rope, we came upon the third. This one was a little spicier in nature. Good footing on the right led to a slick rock face. This demanded full commitment to the rope which had been left hanging…in the sun…for god knows how long…with little way of inspection. Of the 3 of us, I was the first up and have the least upper body strength. Standing half way up the climb on the ledge my leg began to shake. At this point is was show up or go home, so I put my feet on the wall and my full weight onto the rope. I felt it stretch, along with something in the pit of my stomach. My buddies below had their hands up just in case the worst should happen, but I knew it was pointless if I actually fell. I pulled with everything I had, the knotted rope stayed true, and soon I was over the obstacle and onto the ledge.
Repelling the 3rd obstacle, the ascent (seen on the right) is pretty spicy
After the other two followed suit, all three of us took a moment to catch our breath, nervous and happy we had completed yet another climb. We skirted the rest of the base of Zoroaster across a long, loose sloping face which, of course as everything else had on this hike, ended in a 300 foot drop into the canyon below. Whew, the nerves were not shot but they were definitely getting their exercise. We exited onto the saddle to Brahma and after a good climb started skirting the base of Brahma. In the description it says “Easy Peasy Skirt” along the base. The wisdom, however, is that everything should be taken with a grain of salt when it comes to summiting a Temple. The skirt went up and down, but overall wasn’t too bad except for the 3 or 4 spots where the slope ended in a downward spiral to an early grave. As we reached what we thought was the end of the skirt (according to the GPS track), we looked right to find the canyon we were supposed to ascend. There was nothing in sight.
Zoroaster/Brahma saddle!
After careful consideration and close inspection, we found the only line that didn’t look like a 5.10 climb or seemed as though it could “go”. We dropped pack, chugged water, and prepped for the unknown. In all the research we did, there wasn’t much note given to the canyon that leads to the north ridge to the summit. Let’s just say that was a slight oversight! The first 15 foot climb ended in an exposed shelf skirt that the word “sketchy” cannot truly describe. After the skirt we tucked into the canyon, carefully and slowly choosing our line, ascending obstacle after obstacle, before reaching the north ridgeline and finally the sunny summit. My god what an ascent! By far my hardest to date. It definitely pushed my limits, but I couldn’t really fully enjoy it because I wasn’t actually sure if we were going to make it down safely, which of course is always the primary goal.
Showing the sloped shelf skirt traverse, nice sliding dropoff to the right, hold on tight! Oh wait there are almost no hand holds . . .
The mind is a strange thing, though. Once you challenge it, it expands. Every section where I was worried or nervous that we couldn’t return that same way felt grades lower in toughness on the return trip. Each down climb seemed doable, and repels that bypassed 2 of the hardest obstacles made the descent much more livable. After an exhausting day, we finally reached Clear Creek trail. We cracked a few brews to celebrate that the hardest part was over. It didn’t matter that we still had 13 miles to hike out in the dark, which we knew we wouldn’t complete until almost 2 am, because we had just summited our first Grand Canyon Temple. What an incredible journey, no words or pictures can begin to describe its brutal beauty. Despite the mental and physical toll the climb exacted on me, I can’t help but be excited to start planning the next one.
South Kaibab
Cairns denoting the camp area 2 miles into Clear Creek
View from camp
Summit in sight!
Hiking back down Clear Creek as the sun sets
Well hello there fella!
Looking back down the red wall crack at Sumner wash
Cairn noting the exposed bypass for the fist obstacle
Rene scaling the walls!
Mark ascending the redwall crack
Mark and Rene pushing up to the Zoroaster skirt
Side view of the 3rd Supai obstacle
Downclimbing the only non 5.10 climb to make the canyon just after the Brahma skirt
Canyon from Brahma skirt to the North Ridge
Final obstacle to make the north ridge
Cairn noting the north ridgeline after the last obstacle from the canyon
Weather: Hi 60s, Low in the lower 20s, Sunny, Slightly windy
Water: 8 liters (2 days)
Food: 4 protien bars, 6 Clif Bars, 2 granola bars, 2 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Mountain House, 2 bags of Quinoa, instant mashed potatoes, 1 bag ProBar gummies, ProBar Meal bar, 2 bags of trailmix, Haribo gummy bears, 2 Kind bars, bag of Pringles, bag of salt and vinegar chips
Time: 2 Days (Hiking time – 9 hours, Day 1; 19 hours, Day 2)
Distance: 30 Miles round trip
Accumulated Gain: 10,700 feet
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges Copper Spur UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
So I figured I’d do a quick addition to my Mazatzal Peak post (original post: https://goatmanmike.com/2016/01/mazatzal-peak-central-az-12-30-15/). The first time I took the peak, I went up Y-bar trail and summited from the south side before returning the same way to the trailhead. I decided to come back (since the rugged Manzanita bushwhack wasn’t enough the first time) three months later with a group I hike with (TLC) and give it another go. I was glad I did!
Peaking down the canyon descent route to the north
Instead of climbing down the southern ascent route, the crew planned to take a non-technical canyoneering route to the north that would tie into Barnhardt trail for the return loop to the trailhead. I was pleasantly surprised with what the trail had to offer. Taylor and I led the charge up to the peak, and along the way found a cool climb (upper class 4 scramble) to bypass a long section of the leg scratching Manzanita! Once we popped back out onto the main path, we found our way to the top where the rest of the group soon gathered. It was chilly as the wind nipped at everyone’s faces, and all I could think was “man I’m glad I brought my hoody!” as I snitched it on tight.
View from the peak – Taylor on the left (click to enlarge)
After a quick register signing everyone was ready to get off the windswept peak. Eric, Rick, and I had a quick route/GPS coordination then headed north, following suicide ridge until we found the correct canyon to bomb down. This is where the fun began. Before coming on the trip I had read that it was a total bushwhack and pain in the ass. So far it didn’t seem too bad, just an innocent walk down a canyon with a creek in the bottom! As we plunged further down, we soon encountered a few nice drop-offs with icy waterfalls and great views. The first few drops were easy to bypass, but the open and inviting sides of the canyon soon turned to rock face and began to close in on us as we descended.
Looking back up the canyon at the ledges
The bushwhack became thicker. The trees and thorned bushes grasped at our clothes, attempting to hamper our progress and spirits, until we finally escaped onto a ledge overlooking a 120-foot cascading waterfall. What a view! On one hand I was blown away by the beauty of what I would have missed had I not descended this route with the crew, but on the other hand I couldn’t help but think “how the heck are we going to get down!?” After some quick searching we found a cairn stack (oh you awesome trusty cairn you!) and hopped over into the next canyon. That gave way to a muddy trail, eventually throwing us into the creek itself and further down the canyon.
looking up from the bottom of the cascading waterfall
It became a boulder hop from there; trying to stay out of the creek for fear of wet feet, while safely descending rock faces slick with moss and no grip. The canyon was beautiful! Bushwacky (is that a real word? oh who cares), but beautiful. Down and down we went until miraculously running into two more group members! Medal and Amy were heading up the canyon we were trying to fight our way out of. They had decided to camp for the night and ascend from the north instead of Y-Bar trail to the south. After a quick greeting (and a warning of what was to come), we pushed onward. More bushwhacking finally let us out to the Barnhardt trail where we all stopped for rest and a quick snack. Everyone was in good spirits, bantering back and forth about previous treks, current events, etc…the usual “trail talk”.
Looking back up the canyon we descended
Feeling recharged, we were all back on our feet and ready to face the final 3 miles to the trailhead. The canyon wasn’t the only pleasant surprise on this trek, Barnhardt was a far more beautiful trail than I expected. Y-bar is a sun-drenched mountain skirt providing expansive views, but is mostly covered in shrub and manzanita (though the small patch of pines found ¾ of the way up is pretty cool). Barnhardt, on the other hand, is tucked away on the north side of the peak. Shaded from the sun and sipping on creeks and falls from winter snowmelt, the vegetation here was totally different. Lush and green, it was like a little desert oasis! Talk about a tale of two trails, night and day difference.
Some of that lush green goodness
The rest of the crew pushed ahead while I lingered behind snapping pictures and taking in the sights. After getting my fill, I picked up the pace to try and catch up. At the Barnhardt falls, the trail descended rapidly with a few switchbacks before finally settling out, skirting the base of the mountain and back to the trailhead. What another awesome trek with good people!
Hey look its Brain Mildener
P.S. Brain Mildener was there too =)
Desert Flowers on Y-Bar
Looking back up from the initial descent down the north route canyon, Eric sporting the green boulder hopping
Taylor standing on some of the ledge areas
The walls begin to close in, turn to rock and the bushwhack becomes heavier
Food: 1 Cliff Builders Bar, 1 Bag Trailmix with Macadamia nuts and pretzels, 1 Nature valley sweet and salty bar, mixed 1 bag of salt and vinegar chips, Pro Bar strawberry gummies
I have been hiking in the Superstition Mountains for the past few years and I knew Weaver’s Needle on sight. The formation was massive and jetted out of the earth like the final breath of a dying volcano. It was always on my list to reach the top (more of a bucket list due to the rock climbing gear required) and I never thought it would be more than a dream until I got a text from a buddy with an invite. I started rock climbing in a gym a few months back, and this bucket list item was about to become my first outdoor climbing experience! Needless to say I was pretty ecstatic!
Peralta Trail-head, our adventure begins!
Kári, Inga, Craig and I met early in the morning, threw our gear into the back of Craig’s 4Runner, and headed for the Supes! We finally got to Peralta trailhead and started putting feet to trail around 8:30am. Little did we know, the day ahead of us was going to turn out to be a long one! I had Kári’s climbing rope draped over my shoulder as my day bag was already packed to the brim with food, water, and climbing gear. At the sight of the rope quite a number of people descending Peralta trail stopped and chatted; “looks like you guys are going to have some fun!”, “what are you going to repel?”. I was all grins but as Craig explained where we were headed I bit my tongue (didn’t want to jinx it). After short chats, we continued to sweat up the climb. The sun was already going to work on us as we approached Fremont Saddle.
Looking south just before from Fremont Saddle, Kari ascends (click to enlarge)
First sight of Weavers Needle from Fremont Saddle
Finally reaching the saddle and we laid eyes on our target: Weaver’s Needle! Every time I looked at it before it was a point of reference or landmark, this time it was a much more ominous beast as I started to wonder what the climb would be like, and how we were going to find our way up what seemed to be an impossible exposed climb. We bombed down Peralta on the north side from saddle headed for the west side of Weavers. As we approached it became more and more apparent we had a large amount of gain to take on just to approach the start of the technical climb.
We found our way to the climber’s cutoff approach rout and crossed the dry creek. After a little bit of bushwhacking I luckily stumbled onto the trail. “Trail”, I yelled to the crew who were in the bushes nearby. Soon we were all back together making the big push towards the base of a notch in the formation. As we hiked up the rock became a little less ominous. The steep, but clearly cairned trail walked right up to the start of the climb. Time for a nice break in the shade! We all plopped down, grabbing out our snacks and munching down.
Beginning of the first pitch scramble just below our snack break area
After the break we got our climbing gear out and began to scramble up the first pitch (lesson learned here, bring your hiking shoes with you when you climb, repelling in climbing shoes is no fun!). We scrambled up the first pitch to the next anchor, it was time to climb! Kári took lead; he has a ton of experience in traditional climbing and knows the technical correct way to do things as he was in Mountain Rescue for many years with Inga. Craig is a seasoned sport climber and walked me through the ins and out of belaying, removing gear, and the general etiquette for climbing.
Second Pitch, Kari Leading, Inga belaying and Craig and myself eagerly waiting
I watched as Kári and soon Inga and Craig disappeared above the chalk-stone at the top of the climb. I was alone at the bottom of the shoot looking up at my first attempt at outdoor rock climbing. Admittedly a little intimidated I made my first few moves up the climb. My hands were sweaty and I plunged them into my chalk bag. After focusing solely on the holds and where I was going the nervousness went away. Before I knew it I made it to the first piece of trad gear and pulled it from the rock clipping it to the side of my harness. It was cool to see the strategic placement of the gear, but it was strange concept to think I was removing the gear knowing it could be the difference in life and death for anyone lead climbing. Being as I was the last one up and tied into top rope this wasn’t an issue.
Looking back down the chute to the valley below
Some of the rock on the right felt as though with enough force it would pry from the wall, the left was solid. I climbed up, brushing small pebbles from the holds as I did. I went to put my right foot up on the next foothold, as I did I felt it. There was a rock in my climbing shoe, just under the ball of my foot. This was no bueno! Luckily I was close to a ledge and took a rest to pull my shoe off to empty it. As I did I looked down, yup it would most definitely suck not to be tied in! Some people can freeclimb this pitch, definitely not the case for me! I threw my shoe back on, stood up, found my feet, hands, and soon myself climbing over the chalk-stone! With the crux of the climb out of the way the whole crew scrambled their way to the summit for some incredible views!
View from the top of the 3rd pitch looking south east, what a view!
View form the peak!!! (click to enlarge)
We hung out for a half hour or so and soon realized we needed to get going in order to try and get to phoenix at a descent hour! We packed up our gear, and headed back down the climb. All four of us repelled all 4 pitches of the climb which took some time but was really fun (except for catching a few cacti in the leg). Repelling was a blast, especially down the length of the second pitch over the edge of the chalkstone to the bottom of the climb below. Soon when we had out hiking shoes back on and walked off the formation as the sun set. Once we were back on Peralta trail, we broke our headlamps out and trekked the 3.5 miles back to the car in the dark. It tuned into a 12 hour adventure, but I’d rather spend a day outside than any other way! What an awesome incredible unforgettable trek!
Sunset over the valley below as we down climbed back to Peralta Trail, golden goodness!
Freemon Saddle Here we come!
Looking back down toward Peralta Trailhead form Freemont Saddle
Looking west at the Supes from the climb to the base of Weavers
Lets begin!
Baby cacti cant wait to grow up big and strong and stab someone!
Desert Flowers!
More Desert Flowers!
The base of the climb, below the notch
Looking north from the peak, you can see how sheer the drop is =)
Looking back down the canyon from the first waterfall
We save the best for last, don’t we? Our last day in the Sierra Ancha area I woke in my tent to the hue of the rising sun fighting back the darkness of night. It was time to get up, no alarm this time, just the peepers opened and the morning ritual began. With a chill and a hoody on I brewed coffee and threw the rest of the kindling and wood from the night before on the still warm buried coals of the fire. With a little coaxing, the fire lit again jumping onto the twigs and limbs heating us during breakfast. This morning Stevo, Annalise, and myself had our sights in Devils Chasm ruins. Soon after breakfast we snuffed the fire and threw our packs on heading up the canyon for our last trek of the weekend.
The lower section of the trail, nice and padded
As always I was excited to get my feet on the trail. In the beginning the trail twisted back and forth on padded dirt paralleling the creek feeding the canyon. It has a pretty good climb to it and after a one good hardy pushes, we were all peeling off layers. The trail lush and green at the sides was totally different than the hikes the day before. Devils Chasm is a sheltered oasis in the high desert, lush green grass, thriving vegetation, and a cool running creek transports you miles away from any desert. We kept climbing until the trail dumped us down into the creek and the canyon walls began to close in. Let the boulder hopping begin!
Lets start boulder hopping!
It wasn’t long before we came to the first of two climbs/scrambles. On the right side of the canyon a rope dangles below a chalkstone to the right of a small waterfall. The climb is easily accomplished with the aid of the rope (rope was newly replaced). Once atop the climb we turned the corner to a much larger waterfall/slick rock area. What a view! The golden sun bared down on the red rock face while the cool canyon stayed shaded and blue. The second waterfall is easily climbable to the left with aid of a rope (this rope was not as good as the first and honestly should be replaced).
2nd waterfall
Stevo and Annalise ascending the 2nd waterfall
After taking in the views and a few pictures we hiked on and up the canyon knowing there was a good push to get to the ruins. Boulder hopping and canyon skirting continued for a half mile or so before finally a padded steep dirt trail appeared to the right, it really took off! Talk about steep; once again we were grabbing at lodged rocks, strong branches, and roots to ascend the incredibly steep trail. We were careful to not kick dirt and rocks down on one another.
Entrance from the canyon, first room
Finally we popped out from the brush letting way to high canyon walls and an enormous (and almost camouflaged) ruin on the rock face in front of us. From the face it looked as the highest wall was 30 feet tall and the entire building spanned 60 feet. Excited we pushed forward on the winding trail to the ruin. The climb is exhausting but the sight of the ruin made every step worth it! The ruin was five rooms wide, four of which still had fully standing walls, and one had a partially intact roof. The last room let out to a high exposed ledge like a side porch. Inside the rooms we found some small pottery shards and two grinding stones.
Looking inside the 4rd room to the east, such a cool sight to see
Looking back to the ruin from the exposed ledge
Like tourists we snapped pictures up, down, left, right, checking out every crevice of the ruin. How impressive that almost 650 years later this mud and rock structure still stood the test of time. The Salado Indians built a fortress standing against erosion, storms, and of course the most destructive force: the occasional visit from man. Places like this are to be respected and preserved, but that doesn’t mean you can’t visit them. Respect it, leave no trace, and it will be here down the road for others to enjoy too.
Top view of all 5 rooms and the canyon
Peering down into the 2nd room along the ledge behind the ruin
Having our fill from the journey and needing to head back to Phoenix, we turned back down the steep trail and made our way back. We didn’t see one other soul on the trail, what a nice way to spend a Sunday. On a great trail, in an incredible place, with good friends.
Looking back down the canyon (see Stevo?)
Inside the ruin looking out through a missing log hole
Inside the ruin looking out through a missing log hole
Inside the 2nd room
Looking down the hallway
Holes
Green!!
Hey this tree got hungry . . .
Gotta love the lush green trailside vegitation
Moss!
Creek towards the bottom of the trail
4th room looking east
5th room looking east (farthest east, lets out to an exposed ledge)
5th room looking west
3rd room looking east
HIKE INFO:
Sierra Anchas – Devils Chasm Ruins
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 70s, Low 40s, Sunny
Water: 2.0 liters
Food: 1 Nature valley sweet and salty bar, mixed 1 bag of chips (Salt and Vinegar, corn chips, and pretzles), Cliff Builders bar, 1 trail-mix bag, Sun-dried Cranberries
After doing some extra credit exploring up Cold Springs Canyon I returned to basecamp at the mouth of Devils Chasm. Admittedly I was ready for food and a sit down. I kicked my shoes off, grabbed some grub and cracked a brew for kicks. The campsite is shaded with these trees sipping on the canyons creek shading us from the sun. The temps were perfect and everyone was in good spirits! Annalise opted to stay at camp so Stevo and myself set our sights for the next ruin of the day: Cooper Forks Canyon Ruins. Not knowing it, Annalise did well in choosing just to hang out, because the next trek was nothing she signed up for!
Its bushwacking time! Down the tributary canyon (can you see Stevo?)
We headed out from camp back up the road in the warmest part of the day. We skirted on in and out of the canyon until we finally came across an old sign from Tonto National Forest. It stated that there were Indian Cliff Dwellings nearby, lucky it didn’t give away their location! Be soon bumped off the ridge into a canyon housing a tributary creek to Cherry Creek. Let the bushwack begin! We headed doen the canon, boulder hopping, crossing logs, and avoiding getting wet in the creek. We hopped, jumped, and down climbed until finally we hit Cherry Creek. We soon found a way to cross the creek and headed upstream boulder hopping once again following a few sparce cairns. Before we know it we found a rockface jetting into the water imeding our further progression. We decided to take it up and over, the climb was on!
What an awesome place!
Once we topped out the rock we weaved in and out bushes and trees, in and out finding no real trail, only sparse areas of low vegetation. We continued pushing forward and were faced with a dropoff into another tributary canyon to Cherry Creek. This bushwack was tuning out to be a little less straightforward than we planned. We bombed down steeply into the canyon and up the other side knowing this was the only way to begin the climb to the ruins.
Ridge to the ruins
Once we reached the top of the base of the ridge that would lead us to the ruin, we stopped under a shaded tree and decided to grub. Stevo was starving and it was time to feast! We garbled down snacks and sandwiches, undoubtedly looking like two cavemen in the woods. Soon replenished for the hike ahead we set our sights forward up the right. Soon we found a well cairned trail that wasted no time climbing up and onward! We pushed up and on for a good ways. Just as the clear trail appeared before us, it vanished. I pulled out my GPS and found the right direction and kept pushing on. Soon the trail turned from boulder hopping to straight shale. It reminded me of being in the Sierras above treeline, only the rock here was red. Maybe that’s why they called it the Sierra Ancha (its actually Spanish meaning ‘broad range’, but what the heck I can dream).
Shale city!
We pushed on and up in the beating sun, before finally skirting a large rockface to find the ruins, tucked away. This set was pretty big, I counted 3 main strictures, and 8 rooms, 4 of which were left intact. The rooms furthest west were almost completely lost with only fragments of the walls that stood. The middle set had another caved in area where the second floor finally fell against the test of time. The connecting room was fully intact and even had a grinding stone in the floor.
Finally made it! Initial view of the ruins from the trail (middle right, lower left)
Pano if the furthest west rooms or whats left of the rather
The last room furthest east was the most impressive of this ruin. The approach to the room had a nice exposed 10-15 foot climb with some pretty serious penalty for failure as the drop kept going eventually dropping into the canyon below. We both successfully made the careful climb and were soon in the main room taking in the incredibly impressive architecture of the Salado. It seemed as though there were main rooms for sleeping and a smaller build room towards the back where fires were burned, for food and heat we speculated.
Middle ruins, still intact!
View from inside, see the grinding stone?
The Indians were truly gifted, not only in their climbing skills but their resourcefulness to gather and survive such a hostile area. These special places should be shared, but above all respected. Soon after taking in the views and a few pictures we headed back for camp. What another well spent day outdoors!
Nice sketchball climb to the last furthest room
From the inside of the furthest east room, awesome views!
Looking back to the est side of Cherry Creek
Awesome rocks, trailside
Looking South alog Cherry Creek
Bushwack fun
Looking up one of the chimneys in the Indian ruins
Look a Stevo!
Shell city skirting just before the ruins
Grindingstone within the middle ruins
Well hello there
Hole left by a log that was either burned or removed
Stonework, standing 600-800 years later!
Cairn!
Lush areas near the creek on the walk back from the ruin
Creek height meter just below a cattle ranch area
Sideview of the ruins, awesome!
HIKE INFO:
Sierra Anchas – Cooper Forks Canyon Ruins
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 70s, Low 40s, Sunny
Water: 2.0 liters
Food: 1 Nature valley sweet and salty bar, 1 bag of Salt and Vinegar chips, 1 orange, Clif Builders bar, 1 trailmix bag
Cold Springs Canyon Ruins (1of3). I woke before the sun came up. The usual scenario, alarm blasting at the walls of my tent letting me know it’s time to go to work! Stevo, Annalise, and myself drove up the long road to the Sierra Anchas the night before finally arriving to surprisingly an empty campground. The camping here can be pretty sparce as there are not many flat spots just below Devils Chasm. Luckily we grabbed the primo one at the top, set up camp, ramped up a fire and crashed. Not another soul out there!
Looking back from the road up Devils Chasm Canyon
Back to getting moving; I stretched my legs like a lazy cat, threw on my hiking clothes, and got breakfast brewing. Stevo and Annelise soon appeared from his trucktop tent and we got the morning underway. Once breakfast was through it was time to put feet to trail and walk the road north to the trailhead. The morning light was awesome, peering through the leaves kissing the rocks around us. Just before hitting the first turn in the road we turned and peered up Devils Chasm, what an incredible sight. It would have to wait until tomorrow, as our sights for the day were set on Cold Springs Canyon Indian Ruins.
Cairn at the top of the 4 wheeler road before the wilderness boundary
We climbed on, trekking up the road until the small 4wheeler road jetted off west, turning up we trekked up the good grade to nice hidden luscious green paradise atop a saddle. If we couldn’t find the spot we did, we would most certainly camp here. Views from this saddle were incredible, looking out over the Anchas just made me think about how people could survive here hundreds of years ago. The Salado Indians got it right, what a beautiful place!
Looking across the Sierra Anchas from the trail to Cold Springs Canyon
We trekked on, pausing at the Sierra Ancha Wilderness sign for a quick picture. The open pastures soon turned into a twisting and winding trail through manzanita. Signs of the cattle ranched in the area were all across the trail; footprints, cow patties, broken branches, but luckily no cattle. We trekked up and on until we got to the plitoff for cold canyon. We pushed around the ridge into the next canyon, looking up into the rocks its wasn’t clear where the ruins were at first. As we got closer we could see a crack in the rocks to the west on the north side of the canyon that could hold something promising. Hoping around manzanita, century plants, and agave that riddles the trail. Finally we were close enough to see a doorway, almost perfectly square. I pointed it out with a giddy smile. This is where the trail really started to get fun!
First good view of the entrance of the Ruins from the trail
The trail jetted up right, up the side of the canyon gaining a quick 400 feet in less than 0.2 miles. I grabbed at branches, roots, wedged in trailside rocks, anything that was stable enough to hold my weight to pull up on. The trail was a slippery mess, loose rock, dirt was the bed for the ascent. Soon after some good sweat and grunting, we all topped out at the base of the ruins where we could clearly see the entrance. Approaching the ruins requires some climbing skills, but what waiting inside was truly incredible.
Entrance, some light climbing required
The ruin was a triple decker. The lowest level could have been storage while the mid level and upper levels were most likely sleeping quarters. Traversing the upper level held a secret back room the a balcony facing Cold Springs Canyon, it was a special find and sights from the balcony were gorgeous. The entire ruin was built on the mouth of a large cave. The second level went back and opened up into a smaller cave like room. Fallen rocks and stalactites were on the floor, I peered my head into the thin cracks that had any chance of leading anywhere. Both of them went about 15 feet, then knife edged into a dead end. Satisfied we had exhausted exploring the extents of the ruin we headed back for the downclimb out of the exit.
Once inside, looking out from the mid level, incredible views!
What an awesome day! Stevo and Annalise headed back to camp as I did a little more exploration up Cold Springs Canyon. The walk back was nice, temps were perfect, sky was clear and blue. I couldn’t ask for a better way to spend a Saturday! Soon after my solo exploration journey a few miles up the canyon I found my way back to camp for lunch and a quick rest before the next trek out into the Sierra Anchas in search for more Salado Indian Ruins!
Secret balcony at the back of the upper level
Road walk from camp
More road with the morning sun
Nice campspot, lush green up on the saddle
Well hello canyon
Oh its climb time!! Annalise ascending some of the steep section
rocks rock!
Looking down the canyon
The climb from the lower level to the mid level in the ruin
HIKE INFO:
Sierra Anchas – Cold Springs Canyon Ruins
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 70s, Low 40s, Sunny
Water: 1.0 liters
Food: 1 bag of Salt and Venigar chips, 1 apple, Clif Builders bar, 1 trailmix bar
View from the top of the hill just up from the trailhead (click to enlarge)
My breath spewed from my mouth like smoke in the cool crisp morning air. Before sunup I woke in my tent to my alarm signaling the start of the day. My morning ritual began; throwing on hiking cloths, making breakfast, and boiling water for coffee. This morning there was an additional excitement in my step due to not only putting my feet on new dirt, but also the expectation to find Salado Indian ruins on the rout I selected for the day.
JF / Woodbury Juntion
The Superstition Mountains are a rough rugged area unforgiving to its visitors, much like the drive I made to the trailhead the night before. From the trailhead, chilled in the morning air, I turned up the first hill to get moving. Rising up to the hilltop I could see across the vast Supes, the sun was just peaking over the hills and the trail was still frosted over in areas. I pushed on arriving at a standing windmill which I could only imagine was still working, however you could never tell by the absence of cattle, or farmhands.
Windmill of an old ranch
From here the cactus lined trail narrowed and dove down to the creek coming up the other side gaining elevation towards the far off saddle. In the sunlight it was warm enough not to shiver, but in the cool of the shade where frost clung to the plants and any standing water was a frozen slate of ice. Buckhorn cholla grew here like someone was regularly watering it with fertilizer! I trekked on heading up and up, until finally I found the first sign of life I saw on the trail. A fella covered from head to toe in camo just getting ready outside his trailside tent for what I could only imagine to be a hunt was putting camo face paint. I wasn’t sure what he was hunting, but like me was too busy to chat and I headed about my way.
I trekked up and out finally reaching the saddle before diving down into the shaded canyon to the north. Here manzanita reigns supreme, it is everywhere. As I trekked down towards the creek the rocks started jetting up and trees shaded the frost covered trail. Heading down I found an old rusted horseshoe at trailside. It was a cool find, I left it for the next hiker to stumble across.
Soon I found my way among the rocks to a wooden sign that stated the Salado people inhabited the area nearly 600 years ago. In the rocks above I found their dwellings. This find made the trip well worth the trek. The first visible dwelling is a rock wall covering a natural short cave where signs of fire on the cave roof can be seen. A much larger cave has a less impressive rock wall, but well visible black marks on all the walls and roof where massive fires were undoubtedly built. After snapping a few pictures and taking in the sights form what the Indians would see I decided to turn and leave. As I walked down I glanced back up to the rockface housing the dwellings to see a larger cave up above the two I just explored.
View from inside the room without a roof
Stitched together picture of inside the partially roofed room. Notice the marked walls and wood? This is a No No. Leave no trace
Curiosity of course got the better of me. I approached the face of a seemly climbable rock and went to work. Before I know it (without having any idea of how to get down) I found myself standing in the third cave. The dwelling here was by far the most impressive of all three. Fully intact walls and most of a roof of the enclosed in the largest room. In the mud used to cake the walls, fingerprints of the Indians could be seen, it was incredibly impressive.
Entrance to the roofed room in the back, notice the craftsmanship!
You can see the finger impressions from the Salado, incredibly preserved
Happy with my find I decided to trek on back to the trailhead. I climbed down from the rocks and started boulder hopping along the creek bed under the shade of the trees back up the canyon in an easterly direction closing out the loop I started.
Back out into the beautifully lit canyon
Water in the Supes, always a welcome sight!
I trekked on enjoying the light passed through the trees, crossing the creek, trekking the sparse trail, really enjoying being there, imagining what it was like when those Indians inhabited the canyon. How long were they there? Was the climate the same? How hard was it to find/gather food in this remote area? What adaptive skills did they use to survive while being impacted by the seasons? What an incredibly special place; to be shared, but most of all respected, leave no trace.
Frost on the ground
Ohh the cactus
Down from the saddle headed North
Beautiful views of the Supes
Last side trek on Woodbury trail back to the trailhead to finish the loop
Camp =)
Ice in the puddles
Superstitions!
I feel like im getting closer
beautiful colors
horseshoe
gotta love it
Outside looking back at the upper cave
view from inside the lower dwelling
view form inside the roofed room looking out
trek back up the canyon
Finally back to the main trail to bring myself back home
MORE PICTURES:
HIKE INFO:
Superstition Mountains – JF Trail to Rodgers Canyon Loop
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 65s, Low 28s, Sunny
Water: 2.0 liters
Food: 1 Clif Builders bar, 1 trailmix bar, almonds, Apple,
Curiosity is a funny thing. What’s over that’s ridge? What’s past that chute? What’s just around the bend in the trail? What can you see from the peak? A rustle of leaves just feet away behind a bush, a rattle from an unseen snake, a rock wall staring you in the face standing between you and a peak. What’s that? Can I make it? How far can I go?
The Grand Canyon, South Rim (AZ)
I remember looking at buttes in the Grand Canyon and thinking “I wonder if anyone has ever been up there.” I sometimes thought about what it would look like if you could paint the canyon with neon footsteps where humans have been since the canyon formed. It would be an awesome sight to see. How many people have stood where I have stood, touched the rocks I’ve touched, been the places I’ve been. Lastly, where has no one been, can I get there? The unknown; it’s the definition of adventure.
Take another look, maybe you will see something new – Estrella Mountains (AZ)
There is always something else to learn, always a new adventure to have. If you get to the end of your fulfillment in one medium/discipline you push to the next or find a new way to push the current medium/discipline to a new level. Find something new to try, hone your craft, become better, explore, share your experience. There are so many places to see, experience, and there is no reason for you to ever run out. If you find yourself complacent, take a step back, appreciate what you love, and re-evaluate what is important. Remember that no matter how hard you try you can never fully know everything there is to know, there is a beauty in that. So be curious, it is a power that can propel you.
Mazatzal (MAH-zaht-ZAL, locally Ma-ta-ZEL)- the origin of the name remains obscure but one possibility is that it is from the Aztec language meaning “place of the deer”. I saw tons of deer prints out there, but I think it should be “place of the Manzanita”! Talk about a plant thriving and on a mountain, there are 2 things I know about Manzanita 1) it is a very interesting looking plant 2) it is a pain to bushwack through and it only ever gets thicker as you try to push through it!
Barnhardt and Y Bar Trails are night and day in terms if use, Y Bar is Chunky Munkey!
I planned on either trying a loop between Y bar trail, AZT section #22, and Barnhardt trails or taking on the peak via Y Bar trail. Either way I figured I would take on Y bar to begin with and see what time I had left in the day once I got to the saddle. Trekking solo I reached the cold trailhead with frost on the windows of the vehicles left there overnight. After getting my gear together and throwing on my pack I headed up the trail. I immediately found the split between Y bar and Barnhardt Trails, talk about a tail of 2 trails, Barhardt was padded and beat in where Y bar just looked much less traveled and chunky from the beginning. I knew I was in for a good push.
Y Bar Trail – Ankle rollers abound
Trekking up Y Bar, as I assumed, was chunky monkey. Baby head boulders everywhere just begging for you to roll or twist an ankle. I pushed up the trail quickly trying to shake of the chill from the morning. Y Bar circles the mountain in a South to Southwest direction diving in and out of canyons. Due the sun being low the trail was sunny heading into a canyon and shaded and cool heading out. Ice was on the ground in the shaded areas and I found ice sickles in the running creeks down a few of the washes.
Just a lil nippy out there
I pushed on and up knowing the time was only ever running out on completing the loop, much less bagging the peak. After a few dodges in and out of wash canyons the trail finally opened up into a westerly direction where I could see the main saddle where Y Bar tied into the AZT #22 with an option for the peak. I looked down into the valley below, what a beautiful sight to see! I kept pushing up the chunky trail to pleasantly pleased to find a small pine patch hidden on one of the washes just before the saddle. A forest fire took out many of the pines in this area but this small patch of pines shaded me for a brief moment on my trek.
Pushing through the pine patch
I finally reached the saddle and looked towards the peak, what a gnarly looking beast, it would have taken another 13 miles to complete my intended loop and it was already 11am (I got a late start). But it would only take me 2 miles of bushwhack round trip to the peak and a final 4 miles to get back to the truck in time before the sun set. I chose to push for the peak, try and see some of the views from the top. Instant Manzanita trekking. At first the going wasn’t bad, I pushed up until finding a large raised rock face impeding my path and I chose to sweep right around it. Once sweeping right I found a cairn which led me up on top of the rock face and back towards the west and eventually the ridge to the peak. A little rout finding got me on track towards the peak.
The peak is up there somewhere! Lets go!
There is no science to bushwhacking or pushing an off trail trail, you just kind of look at the terrain, look at topo lines, look around corners, follow cairns, intuition, use whatever tools you have to get you safely there. I pushed up and up along the ridge dead ending into low class 4 rock climbs which I decided to circumvent (solo trekking class 4 without gear isn’t the best idea for me) and soon found myself into a thicket of Manzanita. Whew was it thick! I stuck to the rock wall in places, found clear veins of runoff between plants that I ascended until finally I popped out past the rocks where I could see a “clear” path (covered in manzanita/snow) to the peak.
Views from the peak in a Southerly Direction
Finally feeling like I had a clear shot to the summit (after so many false summits) I grinned in excitement and pushed on up to the peak. The views from the top were AMAZING! I Could see Four Peaks, Flatiron, Humphries, faint views of the valley and so much more. After taking in the views and a few pictures from the peak I decided to descend the 1 mile bushwhack back to the trail and return to the truck the same way i ascended. I am glad I did it in cooler weather, I know in warmer temps I would have been baked by the sun towards the peak! Another great trek safely completed.
Views on Y Bar once it opens up
Final push to the peak
Views to the south from the saddle, good lookin ridge
hello cairn
Frost on overnight vehicles
push up Y Bar in the Shade
Gotta love that morning sun!
Trek on!
Push towards the saddle from Y Bar
Booooooooo! Cyclopes tree doesn't look happy
Pines!
More pines in the morning light
Whew its still frosty in the shade!
Well hello there fella!
Great Views!
Back down from the peak pushing through Manzanita
I may not be the only one using this trail!
Man it was chilly in the shade!
Pink Cactus, not a typical sight
Love animal sign (as long as it isnt bear that is haha)
Picacho peak is one of those land marks that you can’t miss on the drive from Phoenix to Tucson via the I-10. About half way between the two cities it sticks out like a sore thumb just next to the freeway. The trail to the summit is very unique in that it has some short climbs and is anything but your typical desert hike. For those of you who left your climbing shoes at home, fret not for the trail has been retrofitted with steel rods, wire, and cable to assist you in your ascent.
Trail head to the peak
It was an overcast day and I decided it would be a good idea to head to Tucson for a few days of hiking and I couldn’t pass on the opportunity to take on Picacho on the way down from Phoenix. After paying my State Park entre fees, I pulled into the parking lot for the Hunter trailhead and looked up at the beast standing before me. Like all other treks that have ever came and gone; it was time to get to work!
Some of the railings
I headed up the hill chilled from the mornings wind sweeping across the open base of the mountain. It wasn’t long as I ascended up the rocky switchbacks that I was peeling off my hoody and getting some good heat generated. I passed a large group of retirees who were all smiles and gave on some small talk as I passed. “Are you going to the peak”, I asked. One older woman smiled clutching her trekking poles in hand “that’s the plan” with a nervous chuckle. “Well I’ll see you guys up there!” I replied as I pushed on. They seemed like a well spirited group ready to take on the challenge ahead; I never count anyone out on the trail.
Main Saddle before the drop down the backside
I pushed up along the switchbacks until finally I was up against the east face of the huge rock, the trail continued to skirt the face until it hit the main saddle. To finish the ascent you must drop down the backside (west) of the mountain. And when I day drop I mean drop! Almost all the work you did to gain the saddle is soon lost down the cabled backside. The trail becomes steep, down, down, until finally it levels off and you turn south against the west face of the rock where things start to get interesting. The rest of the ascent drives south east up the mountain with a few cables obstacles in the way. These are the climb areas where people with “heights” issues would certainly turn back! I am no rock climber, but I enjoy the challenge of trying to climb the obstacles unassisted by the cables and man-made railings left in the rock face.
Hello Cables
The climbs themselves are really not bad, maybe class 3 with a touch of class 4 if you would remove the railings. It’s a very fun hike to challenge yourself as a scrambler to make the full ascent without touching the bars. After pushing on and up the last obstacle includes a wooden bridge spanning a skirt just above with a 30 foot sheer drop. All the hand and foot holds are angled down as if the mountain itself was begging me to use the railing. I clung to the rock like a lizard, pinching hard at the hand holds and sticking my feet to the small footholds. After a few moves I successfully made it across, and looked back at the penalty as if the rails were not there. I could be done by a climber easy, but not without a little pucker factor.
bridge with a sheer penalty
After the bridge it was all cake from there, just following the drainage trails to the summit where you get a great view of the surrounding desert (just try to ignore the hum of the I-10 trucks)! Breaking for a quick snack I chatted with a few other summiteers before heading back down the rock playing the “image there are no railings” game. What another awesome day and great hike; if you haven’t already done it, put this surprising different hike on your list of dirt to touch!
360 from a sub peak just north of the main saddle
Looking North from the Peak
Looking south from the West Face of the backside of the moutnain
Looking back at the peak from the smaller peak north of the Main Saddle
Overlooking “The Devils Corkscrew” – Bright Angel Trail – Grand Canyon
Suffering is something everyone talks about on the trail. There is a physical and mental limit to what you can push the human body. Everyone has their own limit, in every class of adventurer. Some people hit a mile and they can’t push further, some people hit 100 and are ready to go some more.
I have done some endurance related hiking in the past; pushes through long days, head lamp strapped on going into the night because the sun set and you’re still on the trail working. Starting before the sun is up to make sure to give yourself that chance to reach summit, or your target of the day.
“The Granaries” Found at the bottom of Nankoweap Trail in the Grand Canyon
I remember when I first started hiking I heard about people night hiking, I thought to myself, “that’s the stupidest thing ever!” I was only hiking a few miles at a time in the beginning. As I pushed into bigger and longer hikes it became apparent that attempting to accomplish 20+ miles days, at a hikers pace, one would be forced into the night. Headlamps became a necessity and it expanded my comfort zone. It’s funny how the mind can expand and the body adapt.
These bigger hikes, with big gain, sometimes into higher altitudes, made me realize that there were many of my own limits that were challenged and my comfort zone grew it many ways. On many treks I just remember feeling worked, miserable, stomach turning, unable to consume food. Physical limits had been met, red lining the whole way, gas tank on empty, mind going to places it’s never been, wanting to quite, give up, seeing things that weren’t there.
Mount Lemon Dirty Thirty – Long way back down
A lot of that goes away when you realize that the only person that can get you to the finish is yourself. No one can hike your hike for you; sometimes it’s a head down, grind on, one foot in front of the other push to finish. But even if you’re the only one that can get you out, its nice to have a friend trekking with you. Sharing the same pain, some of my best friends I have were made while out suffering together.
People have a fantasy in their head about trails, treks, and adventures; they idolize it in a way. I think many of those fantasies are born from the curiosity or the need to feel accomplishment of hitting the target and the memory of all the pain it took to get you there vanishes. No matter what the challenge, the cold, the distance, the difficulty, the pain, it’s the will that gets you there. Don’t give up, push a little further, you can make it, your will can take you there. See you all out there on the trail!
Ascending the North Rim, looking back to the return trek
Squaw (Piestewa) Peak is a great place to hike. It gets straight to work with its summit trail climbing 1100 feet in just 1.2 miles. If you’re a grinder and looking for good gain in short distance within the city limits, look no further.
Trail in the sunset light
The trail itself is much like the surrounding desert, rugged and tough. A years worth of trips to the peak will surely make quick work of any hiking boot you could throw at it. Sharp rocks jetting up reminiscent of Superman’s home world krypton create and line the trail to the summit.
View of lower peak from the true peak
I headed up the jagged trail with friends chilled from the 40 degree morning in shorts and a hoody. We quickly climbed hoping for sunrise to warm us, but the lazy autumn sun took its sweet time. We were all cold, but warmed as we pushed faster towards the top.
View Camelback Mountain from the peak
About one quarter the way up I placed my foot on a rock up push up and continue on, as I did my toe slipped from the rock face. With my hands in my hoody for warmth, I wasn’t much in the way of being able to catch myself. My left hip and soon my head slammed into the trail which was once beneath my feet. Startled by the swiftness of the fall, I jumped up and threw my hat back on my head and continued to push. The group all checked on me: Trail 1, Mike = 0. A little bloody, my bruised head reminded me to appreciate the trail and respect nature because it doesn’t always give hugs.
Looking north from the peak
I love hiking, I love standing on a desert peak looking out across the expansive views of the southwest. Get outside, go explore, these aren’t the padded trails of the Northwest but they can be just as beautiful. See you on the trail!
Morning view coming out the Surprise Valley the 2nd day
Thunder River Deer Creek loop has been on my bucket list for some time. The trail is up on the North Rim far from the bustling tourist trap of the readily available amenities of the south rim and the groomed corridor trails. This trek is a little further out and with a hefty 7 hour drive commit from Phoenix, 20 mile dirt roads, and pure ruggedness of the trail (including some gnarly exposure) keeps most trekkers at bay.
Drive on the way out, moon almost full, lunar eclipse supposed on 9.27.15
For my birthday weekend, Nicole and I drove up to the north rim from Phoenix on Friday in attempts to reach the trailhead, hike to the Colorado River and back in just 2 days. I wish I had another day in the canyon to do more sightseeing but from long drive time commit and diminishing vacation days left for the year it was all we could do to hit the river and back.
View from our campsite, morning before the trek
We headed for the North Kaibab Plateau from Phoenix, through the pines, the aspen, across the dirt roads, chasing the sun as it set towards the trailhead. The dirt road was surprisingly tame; the last 2 miles were not the case. The road suddenly became narrow, rocky, and steep. After some maneuvering across the roads and searching for a camping spot we found a nice spot right on the rim and set up shop.
First peering into the canyon from Monument Point
The next morning we woke and started getting our gear together, stuffing sleeping bags in stuff sacks, accounting for food and water, before strapping our packs on and walking the 0.5 mile road walk from our camp to Bill Hall trailhead. Bill Hall trail cuts some distance and time off the long trek, however at a price. After leaving the trailhead, hiking up to Monument Point, we began the decent into the canyon. Nicole’s first glance at the exposed, rocky, loose trail spewed out an “I’m not going down that!” We drove a long way and I wasn’t ready to turn back and throw in the towel after only feet into the trail. I knew (even though she wasn’t too keen on exposure) she could take on the trail and conquer the exposure butterflies. We took it slow heading down the narrow trail with great care, making sure footing and the trail was good before traversing.
only a little exposure, i promise! The narrow trail graded off at a 45 just before a huge drop
Before we knew it we skirted the South side of the Monument Point and were descending the much safer switchbacks. We were soon on the flat Esplanade and trekking faster across the desert trail. With the help of some cairns and a GPS we made our way across the open desert the next switchback drop-off. The trail was rocky but the views were gorgeous, looking into the vast canyon from a far we knew we had already covered some good ground but still had a long way to go before we reached camp and the scorching sun of the surprise valley was ahead. We dropped a 2 liter platypus under some rocks by the side of the trail in case we were low on water on our trek out. Then we bombed into the heat.
Getting closer, dropping in, great views of our destination
We hit the Surprise Valley and as expected were met by a nice scorching sun. We were both hot, sweat drenched, tired, and ready for fresh water and a rest. Reaching the Deer Creek/Thunder river split we darted right towards the Deer Creek and hopefully the Colorado River, it was already 3pm and the trail only became less maintained and rocky jumping in and out of the wash that would eventually dump into the creek. This slowed us down and I started worrying about our diminishing water supply and quickly setting sun. I checked the topo map and saw that we had one last large drop before reaching camp at Deer Creek and the narrows we yearned to see; I only hoped there was no more exposure.
Pushing down the final canyon before Deer Creek from Surprise Valley
Finally Deer Valley! The sound of water and the green foliage was like a mirage
Sure enough the last ¼ mile skirted a sheer rock face on a very narrow foot wide trail and the penalty for a mistake was a 300 foot drop to certain death. Let’s just say we took this section carefully down. After some rock kicking and nervous stepping we made it down the safer non exposed final switchbacks. As soon as we passed the exposed skirt section we both ran out of water. Luckily we entered what can only be described as a desert mirage. The lush green foliage that surrounded the creek was thick, green, and flourishing, even in the heat of the desert summer. The crisp cool water invited us with open arms and we quickly filtered and chugged down a few cool crisp liters. How replenishing, both to our parched lips and tired bodies.
The Narrows – Very incredible place
Following the creek down we soon reached camp and dropped our things knowing the sun would soon be setting. We met a couple, Katy and Mike, at camp. After a quick chat we found that we were going to be the only ones in camp being that Katy and Mike decided to hike up to the Esplanade to enjoy the full moon that night and advised us to head to the narrows before the sun set as making our way back could be tough in the dark. We thanked them and headed on down the creek. Soon the canyon began to transform, the lush green gave way to rising rock walls and the creek began to fall further and further below us in dripping waterfalls and snaking through the narrows. What an incredible sight, we finally reached what we came to see, and let me tell you; all the tired soreness from the day was lifted as we entered this incredibly special place.
Sun was setting as we took it all in – The Narrows of Deer Creek
We stopped for a while, snapped pictures, took our shoes off and put our beat feet in the creek. I was happy to be here, in the bottom of the canyon, just the two of us in this special place. The sunlight continued to diminish and we decided to head back to camp. We quickly set up the tent, filtered water for the next day and made our mountain house dinners. I am sure to anyone we looked like savages, scarfing down our meals. We were in bed by 7:30 and were quickly crashed out.
Well hello there fella!
The next morning we woke at 3 am to beat the heat out, ate breakfast, packed up camp, and were quickly pushing up and out of the canyon in the dark with headlamps lighting the way. We hiked past the lush green riverside foliage, up the switchbacks, across the narrow skirt in into the trail to Surprise Valley before the sun even thought about getting up. On the way out we saw a big scorpion in the middle of the trail, snapping a quick picture, we left him be and went back to our grind out of the canyon. On our way out we saw a few groups that we saw the day before. We continued to push up and out, up 5200 feet from camp to the trailhead. When we finally reached the top we were both happy we made it out without mishap. Another awesome trek completed, met new friends, and saw amazing new places; I love life on the trial!
Looking down into Surprise Valley before the switchbacks
Views just after the switchbacks before the skirt as we pushed out the second day
First sight of the dropoff from Bill Hall trail
Rock formations on the Esplinade
Huge awesome rock formation
At the water drop, just before the descent into Surprise valley
More rock formations!
Cairn on the way
Pshing past Surprise valley down towards deer creek
Food: 4 Nature Valley Peanut butter granola bar, 4 Clif Bars, 2 meal replacement protien bar, 1 bag of beef jerky (6oz), avacodo, 1 ziplock sandwich bag of peanutbutter pretzels, 1 via starbucks instant coffee, 2 Quaker Real Medleys Oatmeal, 1 Mountain House Chicken Breast and Mashed potatoes, Salt and venigar chips, gummys bears
Time: 10 hours 10 miles day 1; 8 hours 10 miles day 2
Distance: 20 miles round trip
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges Copper Spur UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
The alarm sounded, far too early it seemed, I slapped at the snooze button on my phone. I was pretty comfortable and was in no mood to move. My phone beckoned again; I hit the snooze and pushed it under the pillow. A third time it called to me, one eye opened I turned it off and finally succumb to the fact that, no matter how comfortable I was, morning was here and I needed to get moving.
Driving into the Sunrise, what a beautiful sight!
This morning my sights were set on the 5057 peak of the Superstition Mountains via Carney Springs trail head. I headed east from Phoenix before the sun rose, with an ice filled camelback, delicious warm java (thanks QK), and hopes to reach the summit without falter. I drove down the 60 east to the dirt Peralta road to find a nice parking spot at Carney Springs trail head (seeing I was the only one there). This time of year is a little warm for most to hike in the desert, but it didn’t deter me from packing in some ice, slathering any uncovered skin with sunblock, and heading for the top!
Push up the Canyon to the ridgeline
I set out with the sun rising heading up the tough push up the canyon that would lead me to the ridge line where I would push for summit. This morning as I reached the cattle fence I was surprised to find a pair of hikers coming from the Peralta trail head from the east. They planned to gain the ridge and heat east dropping into Fremont saddle and back to their trail head to finish out their loop. After a quite chat I said farewell and pushed on.
Hoodoos just before making ridgeline
As I hiked on I followed the sparse marked cairns which lead the way up the canyon. Up, up, and on I pushed, pausing only for pictures and gazing around to make sure I am both going the right way and not being followed by any predators. The Superstitions are very vast and have black bear, coyote packs, and (my largest paranoia out alone) mountain lions. I am always looking your scat, paw prints, and any sign of wild life. Not only because they are a beautiful rare sight, but also to be sure I don’t become their next snack! Everything in the desert is bread to survive. Just before hitting the ridge line I found a pair of wings lying in the middle of the trail. No more, no less. I looked like someone wished the body away and only the wings and connector bone remained. I snapped a quick picture, kept my head on a swivel, and trekked on.
Redbull gives you what again?
I reached the ridge line and set my eyes towards the summit. The traverse would span across some very secluded parts of the range. A fall here could be fatal especially this time of year with almost no foot traffic. Just for the record I don’t recommend hiking solo, but when there isn’t an option to go with someone else, I always carry my SPOT tracker; just in case the worst should happen. I pushed on towards the peak, skirting the ridgeline in some places and ascending others until finally I found myself at the foot of the last push to the summit. One foot in front of the other, that’s the only secret to covering the distance.
Looking back down the ascent up Carney Springs TH (click to enlarge)
Glancing north towards Weavers Needle from the ridge line (click to enlarge)
I covered the final walk up and the short scramble to the peak where I took a break for snacks and some pictures. What a beautiful morning! I signed the registry like usual, and look at old posts of past trekkers. It’s always nice to see notes from other trekkers on your posts and of course I wrote back (you’ll see next time you’re up)! After gazing into the distance and taking a nice break I picked up my pack and headed back towards the trail head.
360 View from the peak (click to enlarge)
On the trek back I came upon some prickly pears opened alongside the trail and being consumed by not only bees, but also a wasp and a moth, all on the same pear! Each insect was more occupied with consuming the precious sweet nectar than worrying about who was eating alongside them. I have never seen this before, and was taken it back. You never know what or who you will see out there on the trail, but it’s always an adventure!
Up the canyon to the ridgeline
Oh I can still see the lava rolling
Final push to the summit
Hoodoos like fingers stretching towards the heavens
The valley below
Weavers Needle through a few cairns
Well hello there fella, not out here alone after all
View from the ridge line looking towards Agassiz (click to enlarge)
I woke early this morning, no alarm, just eyes popped open like my body was telling me it was ready to go. Last minute I decided, after two other trips fell through, to drive up to Flagstaff to a friend’s house (recent transplant) to borrow a couch for a nap before launching an attempt on Arizona’s high point, Humphrey peak.
From the trailhead at Snow Bowl ski area
After work and a short afternoon hike I loaded up the truck and headed up. Reached my destination in just over 2 hours and after a few IPAs and some catching up I crashed out for the early morning start. This time of year always warrants the early start with the looming threat of afternoon T storms. I threw on cloths, put my daypack together, and drank the first sip of coffee before I actually realized it was morning and I was ready to walk out the door on another great adventure.
Short section through a field before hitting woods and the ascent ahead
After I started down the road I realized that strangely enough, as many times as I had summited Humphries peak, this was the first time I was taking on the traditional 5 mile trek from Snow bowl ski area. I drove to the trailhead, parked, strapped on my gear and headed out on the trail with the sun just peaking over the ridge showing me the way. Man I love sunrise on a trail, there is nothing better, the light is just right and everything is calm and quiet. I trekked on pushing up the trail ready for a good hard push up the 5 miles trail from 9,320 feet to 12,633 feet where hopefully I would obtain summit and take in the views from the top.
Morning light pressing through the Aspen and Pines
Trekking on, the hiking groups were sparse. Some bigger groups, some in pairs, few solo trail runners, all trekking with a bid for summit. I said hello and greetings to each group I came up on, only pausing to grab some pictures of the morning light pouring through the saturated pine forest that surrounded me. There was something magical about being at higher altitude, smelling the crisp cool air, while being hugged by the surrounding thicket of pines and aspen. Something indescribable . . .
Almost out of the woods
I pushed on; switchback after switchback, my heart was pumping from the lack of oxygen and the onset of steady altitude gain up the trail. This is one of my favorite things on the trail, feeling the exhilaration of taking on the incredible challenge pushed me forward upward. Finally I broke tree line and I could see the side of Agassiz peak with the chair lift for SnowBowl ski slope cut into its side. It wasn’t long before I was standing on the saddle and I took a quick break for cheez-its and an much needed application of sunscreen.
Finally popping out of the wood I could see the ski lift and the side of Agassiz peak
The rest of the trek to the summit would be exposed, consisting of volcanic rock, trailside tundra, and all the other hikers pushing hard to peak out. Half way to the peak from the saddle I saw a friend Jai, who had a 35 lb pack strapped to her back pushing on and upward in great stride! She was training for Mount Rainier in Washington and planned to leave in 2 weeks; she told me she had been doing high altitude training with a heavy pack to prepare her for the challenge ahead. What a warrior!!! After summiting out, she poured 2 GALLONS of water out from her pack, I could only imagine.
Jai, dumping water at the summit she carried from the trailhead
I sat at the top and took in the views, looking long and hard at what was in my back yard and making sure I had a great appreciation for it. After a few minutes of chilling out and taking down a few snacks and chatting I headed back down. I met Jai again (she headed down early because she didn’t like a dark cloud that was forming over the peak) and we hiked together the rest of the way down. Chatting about hiking, hopes, goals, lifestyles, choices, just having a really nice trail chat all the way back to the parking lot. It’s nice to chat with people on the trail; they are usually the nicest ones you will ever meet. Another awesome trek came to a close but I made sure to appreciate what I had the opportunity to hike before I left. What an awesome morning!!!
View from the peak looking East
Boulder field on the cusp of a switchback - rout to B52 bomber
I headed to South Mountain after work, doing a quick training session for a nice 6 mile loop. This time of year means heat, dust storms, monsoons, or other malcontent weather that could deter any hiker from their trek. I was determined though and pushed up Ranger trail like it was my job.
View from Goat Hill to the West (click to enlarge)
I peaked out on goat hill and took in the sun covered in the afternoon storm clouds, what a beautiful sight! I stopped for a moment to snap a few pictures when I turned to the south to take in the view. That’s when I saw the wall of dust, higher than the mountain headed my way. By the looks of it, (to my relief) it was a dust storm and not a monsoon that was accompanied with violent rain and lighting.
View to the south from Goat Hill – Incoming!!! (click to enlarge)
It was time to move! I trekked on, pushing through the loop I originally planned even though the threat of dust was headed my way. I figured without the treat of lightning I could put up with a little dirt in my face. I pushed hard and trail ran the whole way back to the truck (not much of a trail runner but hey a storm will give you motivation!), trying to suck down the least amount of dust as possible. Trekking on downhill I flew until I finally made it back to my truck. Dust still filled the air and I couldn’t see phoenix on the way down.
Incoming! (click to enlarge)
I love the trek here in phoenix, no matter the challenges of the weather. The storms here are an awesome force and mother nature is nothing but to be respected. Another awesome experience in the valley of the sun!
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Hiking Info: Ranger Trail to National to Goat Hill to National to Kiwanis to Los Lomitas
Monsoon rolls across the Valley of the Sun (click to enlarge)
I started hiking Squaw Peak (Piestewa Peak) just before sunset. As I started up I didn’t notice the Monsoon quickly rolling in from the east, my main focus was hitting the peak before summit. I hiked as fast as I could, focusing on the sun as it fell just beyond the mountains to the west. Minutes after the sun set I gained the peak. When I finally looked back to get a full view, I was taken back by what can only be described as one epic sky.
The wave of rain and dust from the monsoon rushed across the valley swallowing the light from the sunset like some hungry bottomless monster. What a sight! Lighting surged through the cloud on rapid fire like a brain firing neutrons, i knew it was time to roll! I bolted down the mountain in a hurry trying to reach my truck before the downpour reached me. Rain in the desert is a rare incredible event, one of the only times the desert gets its thirst quenched. The monsoon would give life to the once seemingly dead wildlife browned from the summer sun. Everything here has evolved to survive, adapt to such a harsh environment. Its truly incredible to see such a beautiful thing happen. Another awesome day on the mountain!!
Looking back at lake 4 and 5 from the summit plateau
In usual tradition for any Sierra trip, a buddy Mark and I headed out after work on a Friday to drive the 9 hour trek to the trail head where we would try to sleep for a few hours before the alarm sounding signaling the encroaching daybreak was imminent and the start to our Journey up a 14er would begin. The trip to attempt to summit Mount Langley was no different. Tired and exhausted from the drive with a quick pit stop in San Bernardino to pick up Mark’s brother, we pulled up to the trail head to find every parking spot filled, no empty camp in sight.
Starting out on the trail – beautiful pines
We searched the area, looking for a suitable camp spot, only to find it took a drive down the cattle road and a short jaunt into the woods among the pines to find something worth calling camp. Exhausted we set up shop, packed our gear away, and were quickly sound asleep in a four man tent under the night sky. Morning came early, too early I thought as my alarm sounded. I hopped up, poked my head out of the tent, and knew it was time to go to work. We packed up the site, got our packs together and drove to the trail head strapped up ready to roll. This would be our 3rd California fourteen for all 3 of us; we smiled like exhausted idiots, knowing this was the price to pay to see the top, and took our first steps onto the trail.
Twisted looking pines on trailside
I love being among the pines, the padded trail was lined with them, some dead from a recent forest fire, some dead from lighting strikes, other thriving in the sunlight at 10,000 feet. We trekked on weaving in and out along the trail, open green fields in the distance beyond the pine thicket. There were a lot of backpackers on the trail descending the mountain. We stopped to chat with a couple of them. We planned to take Old Army Pass up to the summit plateau which was the only crux that stood between us and peaking the 14,026 ft Mount Langley. The two fellas we stopped to chat with told us there was a way to circumvent the snow covered pass which would most certainly require crampons and an ice axe. They spoke of a short 60 foot scramble just to the left before the snow drift, we decided to go for it and forego the longer more populated New Army Pass route.
John, you did a good job my friend
Taking the fork towards Old Army Pass we hit some big switchbacks that really got the heart pumping. We climb up and up exiting in a beautiful open meadow that housed the glacier lakes where we hoped to camp for the night! It was gorgeous and wide open, the pines were more space here given the altitude but the grey rocks were still a beautiful sight to see. We pushed to Lake 5, finding a nice flat area to ditch our gear and take a well needed rest. Marmots and small birds were the only animals we found here, that and the few other trekkers seeking adventure. We looked up at the pass curious if we would be able to reach the summit plateau or if our efforts would be thwarted by an impasse.
hitting the glacier lake meadow after the switchbacks
Where we came from and where we’re going (click to enlarge 360)
After dropping our gear we started ascending the pass, hearts were back to pumping the low oxygenated air through our muscles as we pressed to the crux. I was the first to reach the snow and started to assess the situation. The snow bank left in the shade had a nice 400 foot drop below it, the penalty for a mistake here was certain death, and there had been many who attempted it and didn’t come back. Mark and I found the rock chute and took the scramble, while Mark’s brother Michael (who had the ice axe and crampon) decided to go for it. After the sandy rocky loose chute we reached the summit plateau and began to look for Michael who was nowhere in sight. Fearing the worst we hiked towards the exit of the pass. Just as we did, Michael came into sight and was just sitting, waiting. We regrouped and pushed for the peak.
Rock chute to bypass the death snow luge
The push for any 14er is always tough. The oxygen is thin, your body is tired, and every part of you says stop, except your will. We pressed on, up the huge cairn stacks and beyond to the rock scramble that lead us to the snow patch, and eventually the summit. The granite rock plastered the higher altitude landscape, not many creatures or plants could survive here, but it was still gorgeous. From the summit we could see for miles and miles in all directions. The drop off from the peak’s really got everyone’s nerves on edge.
The Sierras, what a killer place, Mount Whitney in the distance
I had only been at 14k a handful of times before this, but for some reason (I guess I was having a good day) the altitude didn’t suffocate me, and I took a nice nap after cheering a celebration brew with my friends post peak. When I woke I looked around to the surrounding area in awe, took pictures like a tourist, and signed the registry with everyone. I put a note in the box for HB; it was her hike to summit after all, even though she couldn’t be there. Said my peace and headed down.
talk about a cairn to guide you way, don’t think we will be missing this one!
On the way back we decided to take the traditional route down the summit plateau down the west ridge. As I walked down the sandy slopes, loose rocks and dirt would try their best to catch a ride in the bottom of my shoes. I had to stop a few times to clean them out, but nothing would deter me from enjoying the view of the incredible landscape surrounding us. We trekked on and finally rounded the corner to the Old Army Pass. There, standing out in the field between us and our route home were 13 Rams. It was incredible!!! The Alpha male was standing out big bold and strong ready to take on any challenger that dared come too close. We (as passive as possible) made a large circle around them attempting to get to our route down without disturbing the herd. I have never seen so many rams in one place, even in pictures; it was truly a perfect moment on the mountain.
Group of Rams, Alpha is off to the right standing guard ready to take down any challenger
After finding the chute we climbed down back to camp, exhilarated by the days trek. We got back, set everything up and chowed down on some much deserved dinner. What a day! We woke in the morning, had breakfast, snapped pictures and appreciating the landscape, and took our time heading back down to the trail head where we camped again for one more night before the long drive home to Phoenix.
Meadows
Glacier Lake Meadows
Killer views
Killer views from the top
Looking back down towards the lakes and camp
heading back
metal shack in the Lake meadow
Creek crossing
Old Army Pass
Headed up the trail
Flowers on Old Army Pass
Plants gathering around the creeks in the lake meadow for a drink
cool waterfall just below Lake 5
Padded trail
Scribbles on the side of the tin building in the glacier lake meadow
ohh pines
Fallen fella
wood beatles going to work
looking back at what we accomplished
love me some pines!
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 60s, Low in the lower 40s, Overcast/Sunny
Compliments of Paul Kurlak: https://www.flickr.com/photos/paulkurlak
I love the Grand Canyon, when you first look at it the scenery almost looks fake like a painted back drop is being draped over everyone eyes. It is absolutely incredible. The first time I went to the Grand Canyon I said the only way I am going there is if I can hike it, and it has been the same ever since. A group of friends decided we should trek up on a Saturday, out of the phoenix July heat, do a little sightseeing, camp for the night, and enjoy the views. I opted to use Sunday as a chance to hike to the river and back by diving down South Kaibab trail, touching the Colorado River, refueling at Phantom Ranch, and ascending back out via Bright Angel Trail.
First Dropping Down South Kaibab
My buddy Paul gave me a ride to the trailhead (get to bypass that whole pesky adhering to a bus schedule first thing in the morning). I woke, packed my stuff up and made breakfast. Paul and his car were nowhere in sight, I checked his tent, not there either. I continued to pack my stuff and get ready as he pulled up from nowhere. Turned out he had been up for 2 hours before me taking long exposure night photos of just off the rim. He is a very talented photographer! https://www.flickr.com/photos/paulkurlak
First sighting of the sun (click to enlarge)
We packed into the car and headed for the South Kaibab trailhead, I was giddy on the inside like a kid waking up on Christmas morning. I was so excited to start! Paul dropped me off and headed to another point in the canyon to take photos of the sunrise. I strapped on my back grabbed my trekking poles and dove in! There is something about descending into the canyon with little usable morning light, watching the sun rise, that is just indescribable. I snapped pictures so much I left like a tourist seeing it for the first time!
One of my favorite parts of South Kaibab, sun just peaking over the rim
I bombed down only seeing a few people on the trail. Phantom ranch was supposed to reach a high of 104 that day so I could see how many people weren’t on the way down. The temps began to rise with the sun as I descended, I chatted with a few people that I saw along the way. It was really nice to have the trail to myself, just listen to the canyon walls, the rocks, and the wildlife. Sometimes it’s just nice to “Speak less, Listen more” – Paul Torgersen.
Skeleton Point below
The bridge came in sight and I crossed paths with a mule train ascending from the bottom. I snapped a pic, said hello, and kept trekking. I knew that the longer I stayed in the bottom the hotter it would become and the more treacherous my 16 mile journey would become. I hurried across the bridge and onto Phantom Ranch, pausing to snap a few pictures along the way. The cactus were bearing prickly pears, the Colorado River was murky mud brown, and the sun was beginning to bear down; truly glad to see evey bit of it! I turned up North Kaibab to touch off at the Phantom Ranch for a quick snack and to refill my water.
Down down down I go
I kicked my feet up just outside the store as I munched on my bag of quinoa and lentils (I’m trying to eat a little better on the trail these days) amongst other assorted nuts, protein bars, and a few pizza flavored Pringles chips (shhh . . . its fine). After the rest I walked inside because I heard you could send post cards from the bottom of the canyon. I located the postcards for sale, paid for 2 postcards (PLUS postage), quickly wrote a note to some good people (you know who you are), put them in the leather satchel on the wall and headed out the door back to the trail.
Crossing the 1st Bridge
Phantom Ranch Store
Refueled and ready for the 9 mile, 4,600 ft of gain trek out of the canyon, I quickly clicked on. The Bright Angel creek next to the trail was flowing nicely and cooled off the side canyon. Before long I was already past the second bright back on the south rim side on the Bright Angel Trail, trekking through the slow sand, waiting to turn north into the Devils Corkscrew. The call it the Devils corkscrew because the ascending switchbacks are usually traversed in the sun and you get baked, no cover in sight. Once past the corkscrew I was rewarded with my first views of Garden Creek flowing nicely noting the end of the corkscrew and making my spirits a little better under the baking sun. It was in the 90s by now and I slogged into Indian Gardens before plopping down for a nice rest. Indian Gardens is a green lush mirage just off Gardens creek down in the canyon. A mix of Cotton wood trees, bushes and cacti stood along the Creekside making the watering hole a nice place to rest.
Looking back down the Devils Corkscrew (click to enlarge)
After kicking my feet up and fighting off extremely persistent squirrels after my snacks I pressed on. The last 4.5 miles of this journey is always the toughest of the trek. Big gain in a short distance, under the sun, and at the tail end of the long tiring slog. I cranked on, found my stride, and kept pushing onward.
Only a few miles left, cant stop now!
I only paused for a few pictures of the gorgeous blue sky on the way out and a quick drip of my handkerchief under the spigot at the 1.5 mile house. Before I knew it I passed under the first rock arch and soon turned up the last switchback. I refused to look up towards the rim the entire push out, until the last switchback when I could see Kolb Studio, and then I knew I had made it. That giddy feeling I got from the first step on trial came over me once again, I knew there were only steps away from finishing. I walked out to the Bright Angel Lodge, bought a Gatorade and took my boots off for a much needed rest. What a gorgeous day, couldn’t ask for much more than that!
Looking down on Skeleton Point
Sun begins to light up the canyon
Restroom break?
Across the plateau to the last dropoff to the Colorado
=)
Colorado comes into view
The 1st Bridge
Mule Train
Prickly Pear
Detour? Sure why not
1st bridge
Lookin back down Bright Angel
Indian Garden looking at the last 4.5 miles
Keep pushin baby!
There is the Kolb Studio, last switchback!
2nd rock overhang
Finally the End!
Lets Go!
Oh hello there friend
Lets hang out here . . . . sounds like a great spot . . .
Little guy
The box is for the horses to kneel down for those short passengers . . . . ha
The Buckskin Gulch boasts to be the longest slot canyon in the world, located just on the boarder of Utah and Arizona in both Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area of the Bureau of Land Management. A good friend Mark and I went to pick up a friend (Josiah) at the Arizona/Utah boarder once he finished the AZT 750 mountain bike race. We figured since we were in the area we should take advantage of it and go see what the Buckskin Gulch had to offer. We planned on entering via Wire Pass trailhead, hike 13 miles down the Buckskin Gulch to the confluence of the Paria River, then turn North, and hike up the Paria River 7 miles to the Whitehouse trailhead where we would finish the long journey.
We arrived on Saturday and set up camp at the Stateline Campground. In the middle of the night the tent door zipped back and a bright light shined in our faces. It was Josiah, finishing 3rd in the AZT 750, exhausted, smelly, and in bad need of a beer and a bed. Mark got up and the two chatted for a while I caught up on my desperately needed beauty sleep.
The next morning we woke early, ate breakfast, and laughed about recent outdoor adventures as Mark and I packed up for the long slot canyon haul. Josiah dropped us at the Wire Pass trail head and drove to Whitehouse trail head to wait for us to finish out the 20 mile hike. As Josiah drove away we knew this was the point of no return, and there was no choice but to finish the trek we started!
Wire Pass wash, beginning to gulch down
Wire pass started as a wide open wash with open desert, rocks, and brush on either side. Twisting and turning along the wash the surrounding sandstone rocks walls finally begin to climb, leading to the gulch. The tightest parts of the slot canyon were said to be in this first 1.7 mile section just before hitting the confluence of Wire Pass and the Buckskin Gulch, it was shoulder to shoulder at some points. We let out into the confluence greeted by towering walls on either side. At the month of wire pass the blackened walls were etched with rarely seen Indian petraglyphs, very cool! After stopping for some quick pictures, we turned up and into the gulch to embraced the towering walls and dark depths.
Confluence of Wire Pass and Buckskin Gulch
Petraglyphs
Trekking along the canyon winded in and out with a bottom of sand, mud, and river rocks. Trekking poles aided in keeping balance over the rounded rocks while we snapped pictures of what seemed to be an unnatural world of sandstone. After trekking through the canyon for some time we came to an area called the “cesspool”, and rightfully so. In the bottom of the gulch the sunlight rarely has time to beam, leaving any standing water to only the air to warm. With cool 30s at night, we were faced with a 2 miles stretch of murky, shivering cold, intermitted water pools. Mark, thinking ahead, brought neoprene socks for the slosh; I unfortunately did not have his foresight. My legs were shooting in pain from the near freezing water numbing out the nerves in my feet and lower legs. Just after exiting the pool, the nerves would come back to life, hurting all the more. That was just before I hit the next pool, this went on for 2 miles, the longest 2 miles of the whole canyon for me. Mark seemed to be trekking along just fine like a fat cat with a saucer of milk . . . hindsight is 20/20.
Pushing through the Cesspool
Finally we pushed past the “cesspool” section and let out at the middle trail where we were rewarded with a few panels of pretraglyphs, both at eye level and 50-100 feet above the floor of the canyon. We stood for a minute speculating how the Indians could achieve such a feat of great heights before turning back to the task at hand and trekking our cold we bodies out into the warm welcoming sunlight.
Buckskin Gulch
We trekked on, coming to a small climb called the Rock Fall. Here there were another sign of the Indians that once occupied the canyon in the form of Moki steps. Indians carved into one of the rock faces footholds to ascend the face and bypass the rock wall without the aid of rope.
Towering Canyon Walls
After the rock fall we continues to twist and turn, coming to the Wolfs Knoll where many backers would stop to camp in these high-rise grass and tree covered safe havens that would keep any trekker away from harm’s way in the event of a flash flood. We marveled for a moment more, and then pressed on.
Wolfs Knoll
Just after the Wolf Knoll, we hit the confluence of the Buckskin Gulch and the Paria, noted by an immediate left turn and running water from the Paria River. Knowing there were only a few miles left we pushed on through the heat of the day in the ankle deep water of the Paria. We topped momentarily for snacks and the chance to tick our trekking poles in deeps pools of mud near the canyon walls. Just as the gulch tightened up in the beginning, it began to give way and open up the further north we walked. The high walls soon became vast views desert, random sandstone formations in the distance, and soon the Whitehouse trail head. Absolutely beautiful country. A must see!
Formation in the Paria River
We finally reached Whitehouse trail head and were both glad to see Josiah after the 20 mile, 10 hours trek. We kicked our feet up and exchanged stories and a refreshing cool brew to celebrate the completion of all our journeys. Then again, we always had tomorrow to look forward to. Here is to good treks with good people, and good times. Cheers!
Wide buckin
Sandstone looking up, nice colors
Here the trees grow right out of the rocks!!
petraglyphs at middle trail
formations exiting the Paria
more formation of the Paria
The end is in sight !
Wire Pass
Hanging Log
Buckin, nice arch forming
One of the downclimbs
More slot goodness
Sandstone kicks butt!
Red rock turns to white
Chimney hole!
Moki Steps
Approaching the confluence of the Paria
Cow skull along the Paria
Whitehouse rock formation
The colors are awesome!
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi mid 70s, Low in the mid 40s, clear day
There is something about South Mountain Phoenix City Park that I just love. Just minutes from phoenix you can feel secluded, away from the hassle and bustle of the city, but still be close enough to peer back and appreciate whats in your back yard. South Mountain is the largest municipal city parks in the county, home to a ton of official trails, and plenty of un-official ones. South Mountain is a Choose Your Own Adventure best kept hiking secret in the Phoenix Valley. And I really dont mind it that way, get outside, live a little! Your mind and body will thank you.
After finishing Day 1 at The Wave (post here: https://goatmanmike.com/2015/03/coyote-buttes-north-the-wave-az-3-6-15/), we packed up our gear and headed out towards Jacobs Pools (not to be confused with Jacobs Lake) to camp for the night. An old ranch house stands on the edge of the wilderness boundary where we pulled into a corral and set up base camp. After a nice dinner session and a few cold brews we bedded down and got ready for the Vermilion Cliff climb the next day.
Ranch House at Jacobs Pools
Waking early (but not before sunrise) I climbed out of my tent and proceeded to throw gear in my daypack and get a fire rolling for the corn beef hash and bacon we all looked forward to in the morning. The view from the base camp was awesome. To the south the snow covered Kaibab Plateau stood tall expanding the horizon. To the north, the daunting Vermillion Cliffs stood daring us to attempt a climb that day. Soon after we finished washing down the campfire breakfast with piping hot java, we let out from camp and headed towards the cliffs.
View of the Vermilion Cliffs from base camp
The “road” turns into a wash and eventually runoff, there is no single discernible trail. The just headed towards Hancock Springs, across the black and red foothills. The rocks in this area were very interesting. They looked as if someone had been mining and some of the white, red, and black underbelly of the earth had been spewed out atop the base of the cliffs. We continues to climb finding an old use trail that headed up to the spring.
Approaching the first crack climb
Petroglyphs on the east (right) wall just below the large sentinel spire (click to enlarge)
Petraglyphs on the Sandstone walls at the exit (click to enlarge)
Once reaching the base of the Cliffs we headed east (right) do begin our rapid scaling of loose rock and unforgiving slopes to access the crack that would lead up to the paria plateau. The “trail” was lightly cairned with treacherous drop-offs to the west (left) and sheer cliff walls to the east (right). Intuition, experience, and sheer luck drove the choices to go high, low, boulder hop, and scramble to ascent the right side of the cliff. About half way up we found a group of petroglyphs on the east (right) wall just below the large sentinel spire. A rare sight to be seen, we took a quick snack break to snap pictures before pressing on.
View of the valley below from the cliffs above (click to enlarge)
Once we exited the cliff climb the landscape opened and incredible sandstone formations stood in front of us. Like a mini slot canyon there were a few choices to pass through the red, orange, yellow, and white rock. The fins, rock formations, and vibrancy of color are incredible! This hidden gem would be only seen by possibly 50-100 people/year or far less.
One of the slots at the exit of the cliff climb – Colors were amazing (Click to enlarge)
Fins of sandstone at exit of the crack climb (click to enlarge)
Once past the first set of formations we found that the top of the paria was covered in 6-12 inches of blinding snow! Although the temps were nice, the sun beaming down on the snow made for an eye squinting struggle trek. Along the way sandstone formations jetted up and through the snow for some great stop and snap opportunities. As we crossed the plateau, skirting the cliffs, we saw a huge rock formation in the distance reminiscent of an atomic bomb explosion; we nicknamed it “Atomic Rock”. I stopped to snap tons of pictures in awe before pressing on to the Easter Sandhill Crack where we would descend. To our surprise Michael, one of our party members who sustained an injury the day before and decided to stay behind, popped up from the cliffs below with all smiles! We happily greeted him and after a quick break descended down together.
Snow covered Paria Plateau (click to enlarge)
Atomic Rock – Awesome Formation we found on the Plateau (click to enlarge)
Off to the west (right side if descending) side of the cliff walls there were more petraglyphs just after starting the decent. View from the cliff tops are uninterrupted and incredible. All divers colors of the rocks in the valley below all the way across to the snow covered Kaibab Plateau to the south, absolutely breathtaking.
Sandstone formation up on top of the Paria Plateau
Dropping the final decent we crossed dry waterfalls, long horned sheep tracks, and towards the bottom a spring where someone set up a pump and some game cameras. We pressed on back down the sand hill, through the beautiful foothills, and finally along the old dirt road back to the ranch house and eventually camp. Tired from the days hike, we all grabbed camping chairs and a few beers and sat on the porch to shoot the shit about the day and enjoy the fast setting sun in the distance over the incredible landscape that we just traversed. One heck of an awesome day!
View from the East Hill crack just before the descent (click to enlarge)
Petraglyphs on north wall of the cliffs just before descending the east crack (click to enlarge)
View of the valley below
Push up and through the cliffs
Peering at the snow covered North Kaibab in the distance
First glimpse of the sandstone formations at thexit of the cliff climb atop the Paria Plateau
Sandstone
Fins!
Killer Formations
Hello tree
More formations
They never end! (thank goodness)
Large formation just before the descent
last road walk home
Sentinel Rock
Peering back down the climb
Sandtone cracks
Crack walls
Up the final chute
Peering back down
Start of the formations at the exit
Fallen hero
Formations!
And yep, thats right, more formations
Snow covered formations
Closeup of Atomic Rock
Looking back up the crack we descended
Descending time
HIKE INFO: Book : Hiking and Exploring the Paria River by Michael Kelsey – Sand Hill Crack hike
Topo GPX of trek
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi mid 60s, Low in the mid 30s, Blaring Sun (felt like 80s)
As a bachelor party send off for a good friend Mark Allen, a motley crew of outdoor advocates and me decided to take him to the desert for 3 days of fun in the sun (and apparently snow). We plan to explore 3 different hikes on or around the Paria Plateau including Coyote Buttes (The Wave), Vermillion Cliff Sand Hill Crack Loop climbs, and a final Vermillion Cliff ascent via Cathedrial Wash from Lee’s ferry.
Just a few incredible formations in the Coyote Buttes
Day 1: We set out from phoenix full of excitement and anticipation for the long weekend of enjoying the outdoors to come. Phoenix was still warm when we left the afternoon for the long drive up to the Paria Plateau. After a quick stop in Flagstaff Az for food we continued driving our loaded down rig (5 guys plus gear whew thank the lord we had a tough truck (appreciate it Stevo!)) towards the trailhead. We reached the dirt road that lead to the Cottonwood Cove trailhead on the southeast side of the Coyote Buttes area around midnight; we were all so exhausted after the long trip we set up camp only 3 miles in just before finding a few large half frozen waterholes. The ground was frozen and hard as rock, perfect for staking a tent!
Cottonwood Spring just 1/4 from trailhead
After crashing out in 20 degree (F) temps we woke after the sun rose to spark up a fire and get breakfast rolling. Before I knew it we were loading back into the truck and finishing out the last few muddy miles to the trailhead. Parked, Grabbed packs, and filled with excitement to see The Wave we headed out. We had a nice 4-5 mile trek (one way) across open desert to reach the rock formations that housed The Wave. As we neared the first formations we stopped for a quick break to climb up and on everything! The whole crew looked like kids in a candy store; the rock formations were out of this world and would be indescribable without the aid of pictures (which still don’t do them justice).
TeePee like formations on the East side of Coyote Buttes
After exploring the first group of formations we trekked across open desert up a good 40 degree sandstone grade which leads to the ridge that would take us to the wave. Pools of water and lone pines growing out of the rocks stood sporadically throughout the area. The temps although cool, were surprisingly warm with the unforgiving sun beating down on us from the 6000 feet elevation. We reached the top of the Coyote buttes and walked north towards The Wave along a main ridge with drop-offs on either side.
Looking back across the valley from the ridge leading to The Wave (click to enlarge)
We finally reached the last Northern facing drop-off before our target, after scoping out the decent, we bombed down the smooth carved sandstone. On our way we bumped into a BLM Volunteer, who was sure to make sure we had our permits. After a quick chat we trekked on, totally star struck with the rock formations and taking pictures as if we would have amnesia once we left and only the pictures would stand as proof that this place existed. What an incredibly beautiful area. The Wave is special; however the entire area is filled with equally stunning and spectacular rock formations (so don’t get sucked into just this one spot!).
Formations after the dropoff just above the Wave (click to enlarge)
Once realizing our time was growing short we headed back up the sandstone slope to the ridge where we trekked back across some of the most breathtaking land in Arizona to the trailhead. What an awesome day, well worth the drive, 4WDing, and time to snag permits. Truly a once in a lifetime experience (the BLM makes sure of that)!
Wow! (Click to enlarge)
Awesome sandstone fins on the way back to Cottonwood Trailhead (click to enlarge)
Appraching the first formations
Well hello there lookout bird
Mirror pond looks like a transposed photo
Fins!
Killer formations
Sand bowl area South East of The Wave, very cool formation
3am my blasting alarm wakes me up, one eye, opened I hit the off button. In the middle of the night I stumbled through my house, grabbing my backpack, pulled my boots on, and before I knew it coffee in hand was pulling out of my driveway. Wiping the sleep my eyes I found my way to the I-10 heading south for the 3 hour drive to take on Mica Mountain. Mica is one of the big boys surrounding Tucson boasting 5,500 feet of accumulated gain inside 10.5 miles (one way) topping out at 8,666 feet. This morning I headed out for a much needed solo trek, sometimes a little one-on-one time with the trail is just what’s needed to clear the mind and reground the ego.
Someones sweet outdoor adventure home base I saw at the trailhead
I found my way to East Redington road which turned into a dirt road for a 12 mile stretch before I found the trailhead, a small pull out on the side of the road. There is a 4WD road that takes you all the way to Italian Spring trailhead, but unfortunately my 2WD truck was going to make the trek so I decided to walk the extra 2.5 miles from Redington Road along the AZT saving my truck some tough terrain. As I pulled up to the pull off I was surprised to see a F150 sitting there with a sweet camper on the back, a mountain bike was nearby leaned against a fence. This guy looked like he had been roughing it for a while.
Hello Mica, I’m coming for you!
I grabbed my crap and let out on the trail just as the sun rose. The first section was relatively flat just rolling through a cactus scattered open field. The trail through this section was surprisingly nice and smooth. I pressed on through the Italian Springs trailhead where the 4WD road tied in at a wash crossing. As I trekked through I watched the clouds closely for signs of precipitation, the clouds clumped and dispersed across the sky, it was a beautiful day. After the wash the trail begain to gain in altitude through the foothills leading to the Ricon Mountains (Where Mica Mountain resides). Slowly the plants and terrain started to change. Watching the changes from cactus to pine is always one of my favorite things to see when trekking through desert areas.
Views of the Valley below as I climbed (click to enlarge)
Pressing past the foothills the trail really started to pick up in incline and didn’t seem to want to give up as I approach the spine of Mica Mountain. When I was trekking along the flat on the initial approach I thought “oh that doesn’t look too far away”, I trekked some more, then some more, then some more . . . yea not as close as it seems! Climbing I passed through cactus, crossing rolling springs/creeks, trekking through section of beautiful open fields, winding rock trails, and soon manzanita lined trails until finally I reached the burn area which noted that I finally found the spine of the ridge. Burned areas are never all that great to see, always remind me of the end of something beautiful that stood, but also that this was a necessary cycle of the forest here in Arizona. I looked up towards the top and saw patches of green standing pines and knew I would soon be setting foot among them.
Crazy spiral burned tree towards the peak
I pressed on, and as I did the wind picked up and the temperature began to drop. Soon I was walking among the pines; listening to the winds song through the tree tops just made everything that much better. Sun shining high above the trees and the rays could only touch the ground where the lush green leaves allowed it. The trail twisted and winded up up and on through the trees towards the peak glimpsing expansive views of the valley below as I kept walking.
Stairway to Heaven
Finally I reached the peak which only had views of the surrounding forest and the foundation of an old lookout tower. I signed the registry and decided to push the extra half mile to Spud Rock where I got some of those great expansive views over Tucson with Mount Lemon in the distance. The wind was turning pretty well by this point, I threw on my hoody and laid on the rock for a quick rest and snack. Man the views up here really give you perspective of not only the landscape around below but also on how minuscule some issues can be in the grand scheme of things.
View from Spud Rock
I turned, saturated with mountain views and headed back for the truck retracing my steps and snapping pictures the full way. I saw no other soul on the trail and it was kind of nice to have only the sound of the wind and the trail beneath my feet to keep me company. I trekked back to the truck without fault enjoying seeing the same trail that I saw that morning from the opposite direction. Sometimes a solo trek is just what is needed to get everything back in balance and in perspective. What an awesome trek!
Morning View
Through the fields
Water crossing, creek was running well
Saguaro national Forest
Pines towards the peak
Thank you pine forest
Pictures never do it justice
Baby cacti
Looks like a nice place to nap
Glancing back at the mountain before the final twists to the TH
Looking back to Weavers Needle from Black Spring Mountain peak
I love being outdoors and exploring new trails and new places. I think it’s important to share the experience with those around you, even if it is just telling a trek story, sharing photos, or taking people with you to see it firsthand. For my close friends and family that can’t physically be there, I keep them in mind while I’m out there. So in a way they are still with me and are getting credit for miles whether they know it or not. Some people that are the most important to me get a lot of miles. Always share your treks and adventures with the important people around you; they will appreciate the miles you give them.
Sunrise over the valley as we ascended West Boulder Trail
For this particular Superstition Mountain trek, I dreamed it up last minute the night before. I pieced a bunch of GPX tracks together that I found online. The final product was a big 15 mile loop that would touch a few key points in the southwest section of the mountains, including West Boulder Trail, Weavers Needle, Black Spring Mountain, and Miners Needle. A little elevation gain, off trial mountain peaking, and main trail mayhem would round out this big loop trail medley (see Hike Info at the bottom of the post for specific trails, aerial map, and GPX). In the midst of dreaming all this up I was chatting with a fellow trekker Mark, who seemed on the fence for a few of his own treks, so I invited him to just roll with me. To my surprise he was immediately on board!
At the top of west boulder looking towards the west
We met at dark thirty at Peralta trailhead just before the sun rose. Head lamps strapped on, packs filled with water, ready to roll. We walked along the road chatting about things going on in each other’s lives and how crazy and unexpected life can be. Before long we hit Carney Springs trailhead and the first big incline up West Boulder was on, the chat quickly subsided as we got to work knocking out the grind. Hearts thumping and low on breath we reached the top of the climb and turned to watch the sun rise in the distance illuminating the valley floor below. Something about watching the sun rise from a mountain top just seems right!
Finding the trail to Fremont Saddle
Knowing we had to keep trekking in order to finish the loop by early afternoon we pressed on. Using the GPX I put together and a topo map, we navigated through the boulderhop which is Decate Mesa Trail. Pushing through cacti and boulders we came out at an unexpected area of the “trail”. Thank god for GPS tracks! The cairns, although very helpful, seemed to be placed by several people each with their own agendas. Soon after some bushwack and rocky downclimbs we found our way to Fremont Saddle with a beautiful view of Weavers Needle in the distance. A small group of boy scouts was camped at the saddle and we gave them a friendly greeting before trekking on to the base of Weavers Needle.
View from the back side of Weavers Needle
The well groomed trail helped accelerate us towards the huge rock formation and soon we were attempting to bushwack on the crosscut just south of the Needle to Terrapin Trail. We soon found that we had entered the wrong canyon and had to jump across to the next to press on. Once we were back on trail, the cairns and somewhat beaten route became a little clearer. Half way through the pass we ran into another group that looked pretty frazzled and sad. They had started hiking that morning at 4am to attempt to summit weavers and got a little “turned around”. We gladly pointed them in the right direction and kept trekking towards our next destination, Black Spring Mountain!
View to the South from Black Spring Mountain (click to enlarge)
We were soon climbing the spine of the mountain, and a wicked offtrail grind it was! I was chuckling to myself because just minutes before we turned up the killer grind, Mark had mentioned how the climbing was all over with! I didn’t have the heart to tell him we had just begun! The climb up the spine was very vert, with only a few cairns spaced about ½ mile apart. Pressing hard up past a few small exposed areas and sharp boulders we reached summit! With gorgeous views all round we took a quick snack break and signed the registry.
Surprisingly green section of Dutchman trail heading back to the parking lot
We departed the summit down onto a large mesa (all bushwack) leading to a lightly cairned use trail that descended us quickly to Black Mesa Spring Trail and soon after Dutchman Trail. We took the Dutchman Trail the final 5 maintained, snaking miles back to the parking lot where we left our vehicles that morning. Whenever we weren’t bushwacking or pushing up a big grind we were either marveling at the views around us or chatting about life and its complexities. Sometimes I like to trek solo and get some good grounding time with mountain, others times I like rolling with a friend and having a good chat. Whatever you do, make sure you share the journey. Carry the important people with you, however you do it, they will appreciate the miles you give them!
Looking down on the valley to the south from West boulder trail
Decate Mesa Trail boulder hop
Hello Weavers!
Looking up from the base of Weavers about to take the cross cut
Miles and miles of awesome, looking west from the Weavers crosscut trail
Trekking across the mesa south of Black Springs Mountain
Miners Needle
Saguaros garden!
Water in the supes! Nearing Peralta trail head on Dutchman's Trail
Supes Map
View of Main Ridge line from top of West Boulder Trail
Hello Weavers! Poking through the jetting Hoodoos and spires
ocotillo on the back spine of Black Spring Mountain
Looking south from Black Spring Mountain peak
Trekking back on Dutchmans Trail
HIKE INFO:
GPX Map (click to enlarge)
Start at Peralta trailhead, Walk to Carne Springs trailhead, Head up West Boulder trail, to Decate Mesa trail, to Freemont Saddle tying into Peralta Trail, to Weavers Needle Crosscut, to Terrapin Trail, to Bluff Springs Mountain Trail, to Hidden Valley Loop trail, to Dutchmans Trail and finally back to the Peralta trailhead.
Exiting the trail being chased out by a mean low cloud
I have a friend, his last name is Medal, that enjoys taking “the road less traveled” on pretty much every hike he goes on. Most of the time I stick to the trail, not even a fan of cutting switchbacks or disturbing wildlife, but I do love a true ascent to a peak. I had the chance to be invited to join a friend up a “route” in the Superstition Mountains from Hieroglyphic trailhead to the 5057 peak via the West ridgeline. I had hiked a nearby frequented trail to the peak up the canyon (which to be honest really isn’t much of a trail either in spots) to eyeball the route he proposed. There we a few spires that could pose a challenge in the ascent, but I said to heck with it lets roll!
To the teetering rock!! The initial ascent
A group of us met in the parking lot, ponchos and rain jackets on to combat the sprinkling rain, and shining headlamps to light the way. A large portion of the group would head up the more frequented trail up the canyon while a smaller group planned to split off to take on the west ridgeline about a mile into the hike. I was using a topo map and an aerial picture of the drawn route on a map to navigate the turnoff. Once I got there, as expected, it didn’t look like there was a trail. We busted up the initial ascent which didn’t wait in giving us some good laboring elevation gain right off the bat. Climbing up and up dodging barrel cactus, wet slick boulders, ocotillos, and a number of other brushes we pushed forward to reach the ridge. Along the way water trickled down the mountain off the rock faces in streams and sometimes small waterfalls. The sun, hidden by the clouds, slowly lit the sky enough to kill our headlamps. Soon after turning off the headlamps the heat from the climb and the breaking rain warranted a poncho peal.
Looking back at Flatiron and the city
We climbed until hitting a vertical rock face. I followed the aerial topo (see HIKE INFO at bottom of post for aerial map) and we skirted north until finding a small gap that was well cairned that we climbed up and over. Dropping down on the North side of the gap and we saw a passable incline to the east to and made a final boulder hop (passing the teetering boulder) to the crest of the west ridgeline. Once we climbed on top of the west ridgeline it was surprisingly well cairned and the path was not too hard to follow. Absolutely incredible views! There is little that pictures could ever do to describe it. Peering in for miles every direction yielded awesome sights; the flat valley below, the gnarly jetting rock faces of the mountain ridges in the distance, much worth the climb.
Looking back down the ridge walk
We continued to climb until finding another group of spires standing in our path. After some quick cairn searching we found the path dropping to the southeast side of the jetting rocks. Following the cairns and some old use paths we found a way to circumvent the massive spires. Climbing up and up on the ridge I was suddenly was overtaken by the overwhelming feeling of joy. Just being out there, on a ridge, in the middle of nowhere, with good people and breathtaking views all due to the effort I put into climbing that mountain: A cost well worth the prize. We kept trekking up the ridge with only one small 8 foot climb that all in our group easily surpassed (even Medals dog Tyson). After the climb the peak was in sight and we pushed on. Once we peaked I was surprised to see that only moments later the second group that took the main trail met up with us. Good timing!
Buddy Mark killin it on the bagpipes at the 5057 peak!
Once taking in the views at the peak and listening to my buddy Marks bagpipe session (unbeknown to any of us he lugged the things up there, sounded awesome, thought I was in a scene of Braveheart) we headed down the main trail towards the trailhead. Although the rocks were wet it wasn’t too slippery but caution was definitely needed.
Rarely seen waterfalls, down the main trail after a rain
We dumped into the main canyon to find rare waterfalls running due to the past two days of rain in the area. This much water in the Superstitions was a real treat to see indeed. We kept descending down the faint cairned use trails, finally hitting the well worn trail at a confluence of two canyons. We took the trail down, around the bend of the canyon, past the petro glyphs (where most patrons stop climbing), and the down last mile to the trailhead. All the while we trekked down the mountainside a thick cloud descended on the mountain as if to chase us out of the wilderness. The weather was certainly kind to us and the prize of the views and rare sight of waterfalls in the Superstitions was well worth the price of a little sweat and effort. Another successful gorgeous trek!
Looking over the valley from the west ridge
Open, uninterrupted, goodness
Looking South, views for miles
Holy cairn batman!
5057 peak!
Standing on 5057, registry seen in blue
Looking North from the main Ridgeline, Weavers needle in the distance
Cairns and Moss, what a treat
Huge Joshua Tree
Moss and ferns, in the desert, who knew?!
Petra-glyph area
Views of the initial ascent up to the west ridgeline
looking back over an epic saguaro
Oh cairn how I love the
Teetering rocks!
Superstitious clouds views from the main ridgeline
Descending main trail looking back up towards the main ridgeline
Killed my blasting alarm, grabbed my pack, and hopped in the truck to meet the Arizona and Beyond Backpacking group at Target in northern Scottsdale to coordinate a carpool to the Cave Creek Trailhead. The plan was to trek in through Tonto National Forest to Skull Mesa, crash for the night, wake up in the morning to see some rarely seen Indian ruins, then loop back safely to the trailhead the next day. I did my diligence in mapping the trials, checking the weather, and making sure I had enough water to get through until the next day. What I wasn’t prepared for is some of the condition of the less traveled trails, and the fun it would take traversing them to our destination!
Ascending Skunk Creek Trail #246
Ten of us started out that morning heading towards the mesa. This was my first outing with the group so I wasn’t sure what to expect. Everyone was pretty cool and I soon fell into place, we trekked on at a pretty decent pace. The plan on Day 1 was to head south on Cave Creek Trail #4, tie into Cottonwood Trail #247 to Skunk Creek Trail #246 to Quien Sabe Trail #250 and finally Skull Mesa Trail #248 which lead up to the Skull Mesa where we would camp for the night. Day 2 consisted of traversing the Skull Mesa to the North West where we would see the Indian ruins just before diving off a rock wash and jumping back on Cave Creek Trail #4 back to the trailhead. (See map in Slideshow Pics)
Cave Creek crossing
The group headed south along Cave Creek #4 which seemed pretty straight forward. At the junction where Cottonwood Trail #247 tied in we crossed Cave Creek and it became a little less intuitive. With the help of a PGS and some pink tape we found the trail and kept on trekking. The trail opened up from the tree canopy near the creek bed as we ascending. Open views of canyons and the mountains ahead were all around. Soon we tied into trial #246 and as we pressed on I could see the separation in the group for different pace packs. It wasn’t until we hit trail #250 that things got really interesting. It seemed that the trail was an old mine road that nature reclaimed and covered in cacti and prickly bushes! There were baby boulders everywhere just waiting to claim an ankle. Three of us had gained a little time on the main group and decided to take a quick off trail trek to claim Quien Sabe Peak. The initial grind was formidable not lacking any rock, cactus, or bush dodging. We finally peaked, pausing to snap pictures and take in the landscape before turning back.
View from Quien Sabe Ridge, Skull Mesa can be seen here (Click to enlarge)
We hit the trail once again, surprised not to see the rest of the group, but decided to press on to the Mesa and meet them there. Quien Sabe Trail #250 didn’t look like it has seen trail maintenance in quite some time and I wasn’t even sure we could call it a trail much longer in a few places. We pressed a hard grind up to the saddle and eventually the Mesa where we scoped out for a campsite. The rest of the group caught up and we set up camp. After a quick chill session, I caught a second wind and wasn’t ready to just settle in for the evening. So with a few hours left of daylight I decided to make a push for the Indian Ruins at the north end of Skull Mesa and check out the down climb we would have to traverse the next day.
Views from the Indian Ruins at the North end of Skull Mesa
I headed out at a quick pace with a mostly empty pack and a hankering to get some good pics of the ruins in the golden light. The mesa is large and flat, sometimes it was hard to get my bearings in the open fields. The pancake cacti were waiting like landmines to remind me it wasn’t just a walk in the park. After an hour I reached the ruins after traversing 2 miles of mesa and two surprisingly steep hills on the ridge line walk. I snapped pictures, looked at the super sketch (looking) wash we would have to descend the next day (with 30 lbs packs), and headed back for camp to try and beat the onset of night.
I reached camp, told everyone what we would be facing the next day and proceeded to make dinner and chill out just before crashing for the night. As light faded Brian (physics teacher) schooled us on the constellations and locating the North Star. Was nice just hanging out a chatting with almost strangers all out there for the same reason, to enjoy nature. I called it early and crashed out.
Sunrise from Skull Mesa, 4 peaks and Phoenix in the Distance
The next day I woke early with coffee in hand and met Vince and Brandon (2 of the trip coordinators) at the edge of the Mesa to catch the sunrise and talk about the days journey ahead. After a while the troops were gathered and we set out, traversing the mesa, checking out the Indian ruins, and finally descending the rock was on the west side of the ridge just before the ruins. The rock wash was a bit tricky, and definitely had the looks of doom at first glance. It took some vigilant navigation and shore footing to get us down safe, but we all made it (with a few extra cacti spines that we started with).
Views looking back towards the Mesa from Ruins
We tied back into the Cave Creek Trail #4 and headed back for the trailhead. After a mile we hit the creek, took a break for food and to filter water. The trail seemed to wind alongside the creek for the most part. I was really interested by the Cave Creek Trail #4; it had some very unique (especially in Arizona) qualities. Inviting swimming pools, green lush trees, fresh flowing creek water, and a very cool crested saguaro were all trailside. The trail rolled in and out, up and down the canyon, through some very green grassy canopy areas, and finally back to the trailhead. Two days outside with nothing but fresh air and plenty of dirt to put beneath your boots, what could you want more?!
Lets get started
Well thats one way to hop a fence!
Creek Stones
Thanks for the stairs!
Good morning Sun on CCT#4
Views of the Saddle just before Skull Mesa
Views from Quien Sabe Peak
Rocco! (Vince’s dog)
Drop down into the wash before the grind to Skull Mesa
Walking on Skull Mesa Grass area
Peaking through the Ruins at the Sunset
Breaking Camp, Skull Mesa
Green of Cave Creek Trail
Looking back at the Ridge and Skull Mesa from the Ruins
Conyon just East of the Ridge from Skull Mesa
Looking up the rock wash downclimb
Agua!
One of the many pools, Cave Creek #4
Looking back up Cave Creek #4
Grassy in AZ!
Map
HIKE INFO: See Post for Trail Selection + Galley for Map Reference
Weather: Hi in the low 70s, Low in the upper 40s, Sunny
Water: 5 liters (day 1), 3 liters (day 2)
Food: 4 Nature Valley Peanut butter granola bar, 4 Clif Bars, 2 meal replacement protien bar, 1 bag of beef jerky (6oz), avacodo, 1 ziplock sandwich bag of peanutbutter pretzels, 1 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Quaker Real Medleys Oatmeal, 1 Mountain House Beef Stew, Pizza Pringles, gummys worms
Time: 12 hours 13 miles day 1; 9 hours 7 miles day 2
Distance: 13 miles (Day1) to Skull Mesa + Daytrek to and back from Indian Ruins
Distance: 7 miles (Day2) from Skull Mesa to Cave Creek Trailhead
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges Copper Spur UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
View of the Sunset on the walk back to the truck (click to enlarge)
I woke up in my warm sleeping bag to a nice crisp, cool morning at the base of the Estrella Mountains. Crawling out of my tent like some primitive creature and pulling my boots on, I stood up to be faced with some awesome views of a crescent moon hovering the silhouette of the ridgeline I hoped to climb that day. Two friends and I planned to ascend a trail-less wash up to a ridgeline walk to the highest point in the Estrella Mountains nicknamed Hayes Peak. Those of you who don’t like bushwhack trails or obtaining special permission from Indian reservations need not apply!
Initial approach, Hayes Peak the second from the left (click to enlarge)
After sunrise we ate breakfast, strapped on our packs, and headed out from our campsite not knowing what the day had in store for us. The road we initially started to walk towards the mountain soon disappeared into a system of washes. We walked about 100 feet east of the old road and dumped into the wash that would eventually take us to the ridge. We hopped, jumped, climbed, and scrambled up, around, and across rocks endlessly, all the while attempting to avoid spiked trees, spiny cacti, and other thick brush attempting to hold us back from reaching our goal. We kept at it, taking a few breaks in the shade of the rocks, passing jokes about how it takes a special kind of person to think that this form of torture was actually enjoyable! Scratched, sweaty, and bruised, we pushed towards the ridge.
Some of the fun obstacles in the wash
The wash is pretty constant in its gain and bushwackiness (yup that’s a technical term). Towards the ridge line, however, we banked west to climb the last couple hundred feet or so, which proved to be less than forgiving. My good friend’s fiancé decided to call her limit at this point and turn back (don’t get me wrong, way tough chick, did I mention 6 months pregnant?). They headed down, leaving the peak bagging to me. I jetted up to the ridge and pushed hard to cover the last 1.5 miles to the peak. I’ll admit this was not an easy feat; tons of grueling inclines, cactus dodging, and beaming sun to make the last push a challenge.
Bighorn Sheep – They live (unfortunately not this guy) in the Estella’s!!
Traversing the ridgeline I came across a big horned sheep. Unfortunately, this guy met an end by what one could only imagine to be one killer life out in the wild. The horns were massive and had almost a full 360 curl; he was definitely a big boy! Even though he wasn’t alive, I had evidence that they lived here in the Estrella Mountains. I instantly put my head on a swivel looking for predators in the area as I trekked on. Up, up, up I pushed until finally reaching the peak with a small tower station and multiple sets of solar panels. The view of South Mountain and Phoenix was strange from this point but wonderful to see. With killer views all around, I snapped some quick pics and decided to jet back down to meet my friends. On the way back I eyeballed a beastly peak to the southwest of Hayes (not sure of the name but stands at 4232) that looked as though it may require some rope to reach summit. If I only had more time…
Ridge to southwest of Hayes Peak (4512 ft). Shown no-name peak stands at 4232 ft
Hauling butt I got to the point where I popped out onto the ridge in just 2 hours. I bombed back down the wash to catch my friends. About 1/3 of the way down, I was surprised to find them so soon! They were taking their time, being very meticulous and calculated about their route (and for good reason). We, the 3 amigos, traversed the rest of the wash back down the same route to the truck with the sun setting in front of us. Another end to a good hike! The only obstacle left was to drive the slow eight miles back to Riggs road and on home. Using a weekend to spend time in the mountains with good friends…nothing can be better!
Sliver Moon hanging above the Estrellas morning of the hike
This little guy defys more than just gravity
Looking back down at the trailhead and valley south of the Estrellas
Very cool ferns growing from the rock
Southern view from the Estrellas
Hitting the ridgeline, seeing South Mountain in phoenix for the first time
Looking back at the ridgeline ascending towards hayes
Another view of the ridge line
View South on the way back from the ridge line
Looking up at the ridge as I decended the wash
Well hello there fella!
Light is killing it, descending the wash
Sunset comming on
killer colors!
Water in the desert!!!
Cool tree
View of the towers at Hayes Peak
Looking South from the ridge line of the Estrellas
View South towards Mexico at Baldy Saddle (click to enlarge)
In a last minute decision I found myself driving south of Tucson AZ towards Mount Wrightson (9453 feet) with intentions of a first time peak bagging and checking out the surrounding area. Let me tell you there was no disappointment or lack of incredible views on this hike! Driving up into the Madera Canyon (where the trailhead is located) is a treat in and of itself. This microclimate has lush green trees and killer mountain views; nothing you would assume is in the middle of a desert in Southern Arizona!
Views on the drive up
I pulled up to the trailhead, got my stuff together, and let out on the trail at mid morning. As I ascended the Old Baldy Trail #372 towards the peak and I was continually surprised at the density of the forest sprinkled with cacti and flowing creeks. I only saw a hand full of people on the way up which didn’t bother me; I needed a little solo trail time. There were a few small patches of snow on the consistent grade towards Josephine saddle. About a half mile after the saddle I found that the northern faced trail was covered in packed snow turned ice and I knew I was in for a slipping and sliding.
Heading up towards Josephine Saddle
I continued to ascend the 4000 foot climb and I astounded by the changes in rocks, plants, and opening of expanded views of the desert floor below. The snow persisted all the way to the peak, and so did the incredible views. It was everything I could do to stop taking pictures and keep moving. The peak was engulfed by a low hanging cloud and despite my hopes that it would burn off the cloud lingered only clearing out 30% of the 360 view only for a few brief seconds.
One of the few clear views from the peak (click to enlarge)
On the way down I decided to take the Super Trail #134 and attempt to do a small side trip on Josephine Peak Trail to bag Josephine summit (8474 feet) that I noticed on the trailhead map. Let’s just say this “Josephine Peak Trail” was nonexistent. This bushwhack, sketchy (reminiscent of Browns Peak (Four Peaks in the Tonto National Forest)) loose up climbs (in 2 small sections), unmarked, and unclear “trail” lead me along a ridge to the summit. I maybe over exaggerating the toughness of this “trail”, but I was definitely surprised that it was posted on the trailhead map. At any rate, I peaked out, signed the registry, took in the views, and headed back towards the Super Trail.
Let there be light (click to enlarge)
I tied back into the Old Baldy Trail and headed back down. As I did, a mean dark cloud moved in and blessed me with some light hail, and as I descended (quickly) some cold rain. Despite the weather being what it was I was still really enjoyed all the mountain ridges, canyons, streams, flora, fauna, and just everything that the trail had to offer. This is one gorgeous trail, and it was just what I needed that day to get grounded and get my head clear. Another awesome day on the trail!
Valley below
looking down through the clouds
Up up and away!
Super Trail wraps the mountain
Gloomy clouds hanging just above Josephine Peak
Killer views
Keep em coming!
thanks!
Looking back at the rain covered mountain as I drove away
Ascending Old Baldy Trail
Hello snow and Cloud covered peak of Mount Wrightson
Up up and away!
Snow covered trail trhough Rocks partruding to protecting the peak
It was cold in the morning when I pulled up to the trailhead, my breath spilled out as smoke in the crisp air. I climb the falls as a Thanksgiving tradition every year that I visit the area. This year would be the first time I approached the trail as a somewhat seasoned hiker. The trek was a 2 mile one way, and I couldn’t wait to get my feet on the trail and see the falls cascading down the mountain the entire hike.
Hello snow!
Gloves on and hoody up, I started walking. At the trailhead there was no snow on the ground, but as I climbed the 1500 foot mountain side it wasn’t long before I encountered a nice thick layer of packed snow blanketing everything. The falls had ice lining the edges of the rocks and the trees surrounding the frigid waters. There were not that many people on the trail that morning, and I ground down the first portion of the hike quickly, pausing only briefly to snap pictures of the breathtaking scenery along the way.
Views from the Upper Falls (click to enlarge)
I finally reached the upper falls and was smacked in the face with a wide view of the surrounding snow dusted mountain ridges. Most people turn at the upper falls and head back down, so I was happy to see the trail that went further up paralleling the Crabtree Fall creek had an unbroken layer of snow on it. I trekked on enjoying the peaceful stillness of the snow saturated woods around me. I was only ¼ from the end of my trek before I saw something that stopped me in my tracks.
Hello black bear
I came across footprints that came off the hillside and lead to the creek. At closer inspection I found that they were unmistakably bear tracks! The tracks were about the size of my foot with some nice claws impressions protruding from the pad. I instantly looked up and scanned my surrounding looking for the creature that made these tracks. The beast was nowhere to be found (to my relief!). I snapped some quick pictures of the tracks and did a U-turn heading back towards the trailhead. The entire time I trekked back along the creek I scanned the creek edge, behind my back, and in front of me always expecting to see a large black figure in full stride heading for me. Fortunately I made it back to the trailhead without one of these chance encounters. Another great, unforgettable outdoor experience!
Map at Trailhead
Low falls near trailhead
Up we go!
Mid Falls
Snow packed trail
Ice "growing" from the ground
Little ice sickle action from the first falls
Just below the upper falls
Up top in the unbroken snow path past the upper falls
We stepped out onto the chilly snow covered porch on the lodge, all bundled up and ready to face temperatures in the teens with twelve inches of snow on the ground. I had the opportunity to join a small group of friends up in Prescott, AZ for a New Year’s celebration the right way…on a snow covered trail. We planned on walking from the lodge on and off snow covered trail to bag Mount Union and Mount Davis before returning in the early afternoon for a hearty lunch to replenish our batteries. My first (intentional) true snow hike, it was one to remember!
View from the back porch of the lodge
I borrowed a pair of waterproof boots, which saved my feet from becoming cold, wet, and possibly driving me to hypothermia (thank you Peter for the boots, you’re the man!). We set out early that morning, I had no idea what to expect. I had been in snow once or twice before, but nothing this deep and nothing with the temps we were going to see. I was not disappointed!
We carved through the snow across the trails and up the ridge to Mount Union, where the unguarded peaks whipped wind and snow at us. The white out conditions came and went and, given the right moment, we could glimpse the beautiful landscape surrounding the mountains. We pushed to the towers and the help pad just to check it out and put it in the bag.
View of Mount Davis from Ridge to Mount Union
From there we dropped back down the saddle and headed for Mount Davis. Another off trail push brought us to the rocky nipple of Mount Davis jetting out from the snowy tree covered landscape. Snapping pics and quickly signing the registry, we took a short rock climb down the ridge that would lead us back to the trail and eventually the lodge.
Once we were back, we all mashed down on grub like demons! We made homemade stir fry on the fly and a Korean style soup that really hit the spot given the winter weather beating at the lodge door. What another awesome trek! My first true snow hike: lesson learned, the right gear (waterproof boots) make all the difference!
Gorgeous snow
Killer sights
Sun peaking though for the first time
Tyson our fearless leader
Heading down the ridge from Mount Davis back towards the lodge
Looking back down West Boulder Trail from the saddle
I woke early, two minutes before my alarm was set, like my body already knew it was time to move. I got my gear together and headed out the door to meet one of the groups I hike with (TLC) to take on Robbers Roost in the Superstition Mountains. This trek was a 7.5 mile loop starting at Lost Goldmine Trailhead traversing Lost Goldmine trail passing Cerney Spring Trailhead then ascending up West Boulder trail. Once up top we will cut across Dacite Mesa (with a quick break at Robbers Roost of course) to Fremont Saddle where we descended Cave Trail connecting into Bluff Springs Trail which ends at Peralta trailhead, just a short 0.5 mile walk from Lost Goldmine Trailhead where we parked (whew was a mouthful).
5057 peak from Saddle at top of West Boulder Trail
The initial ascent up West Boulder Trail is a killer grind which leaves you sweating and breathless. Breathless not only from the laboring climb but from the views of the surrounding canyon! Hoodoos and jetting spires, rock formations and cacti everywhere, it is truly a sight that must be seen. Once we were up top, we skirted north east on Dacite Mesa Trail through the boulders and spires along gorgeous scenic views of the valley below.
Pool room, accessable by rope
Trekking along we came upon Robbers Roost, which is a short jaunt off trail that makes you feel like your attempting to hike down off one of the canyons. This hidden gem has huge protective rock formations and a small spring that could supply water if you were in fact held up here. One of the rooms that are inaccessible except by repelling gear had a pool of water and a lush green tree growing up through it, truly a hidden oasis.
View of Weavers Needle nearing Fremont Saddle
Hiking back up top we skirted the mountain until hitting Fremont Saddle. Every time the trail would twist or turn popping over a ridge, there was a new miraculous view waiting to be glimpsed. We bombed down from the saddle on Cave Trail which proved to be a scramble, boulder hopping, cairn (small stacks of rocks marking the trail) finders paradise! A few points along the way gave us the present of exposure with sketchy down climbs! The whole crew toughed through and trekked on tying back into Bluff Spring Trail and back to the road which lead to Lost Goldmine Trailhead. Back to the cars from another successful day trek we said our goodbyes and headed back home. Man what another awesome adventure, the Superstition Mountains never seize to amaze me. The seclusion, the beauty, the abundance of expansive vast views, and of course the toughness of the trail always keep me coming back for more. Until next time.
The "trail" heading NE from saddle at the top of West Boulder Trail
Cairns, gotta love them
Chimney climb inside Robbers Roost
View of Valley from Robbers Roost rooftop
Glimps of hidden pool/tree room inside Robbers Roost
Killer views at every turn
Ice in the Dessert? Why not
Looking across Fremont Saddle
Looking down canyon that Cave Trail skirts
More killer views
Looking back up towards Fremont Saddle from Cave Trail
The Grand Canyon is one of my favorite places to hike in Arizona. Yes there are a ton of tourists, the corridor trails aren’t very technical, and the mule trains smell horrible, but the indisputable beauty of this vast, incredible chasm overwhelms any con you could come up with.
I planned this hike as an overnight backpacking trek. Down South Kaibab, ascending North Kaibab, and camping on the North Rim with some new friends would conclude my first day. The next day would consist of diving down North Kaibab, up and out Bright Angel trail, and a “short” drive back to Phoenix.
Diving off South Kaibab in the morning light
I always mentally divided this trek into 3 sections: the initial dive off the South Rim to the Colorado River, the long flat through the box and open desert to Cottonwood campground, and finally the long ascent through the red rock up to pines and the North Rim.
Being full of energy and excitement that morning and looking at the canyon in the morning light made the first section fly by. Before I knew it I was at Phantom Ranch, putting my feet up having a snack, and chatting with the other hikers who were breaking there. There is a small store there where you can pre-order meals and get fresh lemonade.
Open desert canyon section after “The Box”
After taking a quick break at Phantom Ranch, checking my water, and filling my appetite on Clif Bars and Pringles, I packed up and headed into “The Box”. In this section, the canyon walls came in close as I hiked along the Bright Angel Creek running down from Roaring Springs. In the summer this stretch of trail is absolutely relentless, and the heat beams off the rock walls like an oven. On an October morning, however, this wasn’t a problem. Once the canyon walls opened up, and it became more apparent I was in desert landscape, I knew I was out of “The Box”.
Ribbon Falls
Half way between “The Box” and Cottonwood campground there is an oasis waterfall called Ribbon Falls, this is a must see! I walked into the small canyon that housed the fall and could instantly feel the air become cooler. Once reaching the falls, I took no time pulling off everything but my boxers and went for a refreshing dip in the crisp clean clear water, which totally rejuvenated my feet from any soreness they had accumulated. Little moments like these make hiking so worth it!
Looking back on the North Kaibab trail as I ascended
Before long I threw my gear back on and trekked on towards Cottonwood campground. Once I reached the campground, I checked my water, had another quick snack, and wasted no time heading out up towards the North rim. This is by far my favorite section of the trail in the Canyon. The combination of red rock canyon walls, cool temps, vast drop offs that guard the trails edge, pine trees, and afternoon light make this area very special.
Dry waterfall in the red rock canton walls of the North Kaibab Trail
Soon I was sweating, breathing heavily, and laboring the last few miles just before the North Kaibab trailhead. The last few miles are the most vertical, and of course to make things more difficult, the trail turns to sand from constant trample of mule trains (which leave nice steaming presents for you to smell as you’re sucking wind). Even though this is a tough part, you’re rewarded with gorgeous views of changing leaves and pine trees growing from the immense rock faces surrounding the trail.
Fall Leaves
I pushed hard to finish out from beneath my bulging backpack. All of the sudden, I felt a strange sharp pain starting in my lower quad at the knee walking its way up my leg. After a few seconds I knew it was a cramp. My left leg followed suit and soon mirrored the pain I felt in the right. I had no salt tablets and I was only a few switchers from the exit. I pressed on knowing I could borrow some electrolytes from another hiker. I finally reached the trailhead surprised to hear a crowd waiting and cheering on exiting hikers. It didn’t matter if they knew you or not, they were there for moral support. I almost forgot about the seizing pain in my legs. After a sharp reminder I hurriedly dumped my pack and found a fellow hiker with a salt packet. The salt and a gulp of fresh water quickly alleviated the pain. This was my first time experiencing cramps in my legs.
Soon after I reached the rim, my friends exited. We went to the campground to set up camp and a quick jaunt up to the North Rim Lodge to grab some food and beer before crashing for the night. It’s always great to swap stories with people who enjoy the same things you are passionate about.
Time to head back across!
The next day I woke early for the return trek. I ate breakfast, threw my pack on, and said farewell to my friends before I bombed off once again into one of nature’s most incredible wonders. Pictures don’t do it justice and stories can only tickle curiosity. I urge you to throw on a pack, get some boots, put some dirt beneath your feet and experience this place for yourself. You won’t regret it!
Rocks half way down South Kaibab
Looking back up South Kaibab nearing the Colorado
Entering "The Box" where trees defy gravity!
"The Box"
Ribbon Falls
Top of the Falls
Bluebird skys traversing the open canyon desert towards Cottonwood Campground
Ascending the North Kaibab - love the red rock canyons
Cool tree, looking back towards Cottonwood Campground on the North Kaibab
Red rock gives way to white rock towards the last few miles of the North Kaibab
Weather: Hi in the low 70s, Low in the lower 40s, slighly cloudy
Water: 3 liters (per day)
Food: 4 Nature Valley Peanut butter granola bar, 4 Clif Bars, 2 meal replacement protien bar, 1 bag of beef jerky (6oz), 1 ziplock sandwich bag of cheese-its, 1 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Quaker Real Medleys, 1 Mountain House Beef Stew, Pizza (north rim lodge), gummys worms, Pringles
Time: 10 hours day 1; 8 hours day 2
Distance: 20 Miles one South Kaibab to North Kaibab (Day1)
Distance: 22 North Kaibab to Bright Angel (Day2)
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges Fly Creek UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Day 5: Seely Woodward shelter to Spicewood Cabin [on Highway 56] (12 miles)
Early in the morning of the 5th day, I woke to a sound outside the shelter. I poked my head out of my tent and beamed my headlamp light into the darkness to see the wind blowing snow across the shelter opening. I knew it was coming, I just wasn’t sure how much would accumulate on the trail before I started trekking. I pulled my head back into the tent and receded into the warmth of my bag for a few more hours of sleep before I started my morning ritual of packing up and making breakfast.
Before I knew it I was sipping hot coffee, throwing on my pack, and saying goodbyes to my temporary roommate “Just Jim”. I had a little over 7 miles of the ridge roller coaster left before I would reach “The Priest” shelter and peak. The path would then take me on my final descent to the Tye River and Highway 56, where I would walk a half mile to the cabin where my family was staying.
Snow just kept falling
The morning was bitter cold, the kind that bites at any exposed flesh, and when I started walking there was already 3-4 inches of snow on the ground. I had my facemask pulled on tight to combat the swirling, whipping wind. The socks I had would soon be completely soaked from walking through the snow, and I knew that the only thing I could do to keep warm was to keep walking. The Merrell boots I was wearing were not waterproof, and I didn’t want to go back to the trailrunners on a big downhill and risk rolling an ankle again.
I trudged through the snow along the ridge, breaking trail as I went. Although it was cold, it was absolutely beautiful! The snow continued to fall and everywhere I looked, the landscape was covered in a perfect blanket of undisturbed snow. I trekked on stopping only momentarily to pull my hand from the wet gloves, fish out my phone, and shakily snap a few pictures before the screen became too wet to pick up my fingerprint. After a few minutes of standing still the chill began to creep on. I quickly stuffed the camera away, not knowing if the pictures I was taking were actually decent, and moved on.
Snow clinging to the sides of trees
I finally reached The Priest and knew the rest of the trip would be a slippery downhill to the highway and eventually the cabin. (I could only speculate why they called it “The Priest”, but if I had to guess it’s because if you were climbing the opposite direction from the Tye River up to the ridge, you would need a Priest when you reached the top! Its a serious ascent!) I pressed on, seeing random rabbit and bird tracks in the snow but no sign of the creatures themselves. I came upon one expansive view on the downclimb. I looked out, attempting to peer out past the foggy morning, but was only slightly able to make out a few lakes in the distance. I had no depth perception at this point but I knew I had only a few miles left.I kept descending and as I dropped elevation the snow turned to freezing rain. The snowline was at about 1500 feet and everything below that was sopping wet. The path weaved in and out of canyons, crossing a few heavy running creeks.
Spicewood Cabin (stole this pic offline – I had no good ones)
I turned a corner and saw an old farm house with a few sheds and old machinery in the back. I knew I wasn’t far from the road! I traversed the next few switchbacks with childlike excitement! I soon walked out of the trail and onto Crabtree Falls Highway 56, just 0.4 miles from my destination. I was hit by an overwhelming feeling that words can’t describe when I realized how close I was to finishing. I was just moments away from walking 100 miles in 5 days. I remember repeating “a hundred miles in five days” out loud to no one in particular, and every time I said it a wave of inexplicable emotion washed over me. With just this small personal accomplishment, I could only imagine what true through hikers that push 2000+ miles straight must feel when they finally reach the end of their journey. I trekked the last section along the road with ease. I reached the cabin, half expecting to see no one there. I walked to the door and knocked eagerly to see my mom soon appear in the doorway. I was so excited I threw my arms around her and half yelled “A hundred miles in 5 days!” I was drenched through from the snow and cold to the bone, but I couldn’t have been happier. It was nice to hit the mark and surprise myself. My AT trek ended there, but it is far from my last! What a wonderful journey!
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 50s, Low in the lower 30s, Overcast / Snow 6-10 inches at 4000 feet, ice rain below 1,500 feet
Water: 1 liters
Food: 2 Clif Bars, 1 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Quaker Real Medleys
Time: 4 hours day 5
Distance: 12 Miles one way from Seely Woodward shelter to Spicewood Cabin
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
The fourth day I woke surprised to find my legs free of soreness from the big miles the day before (and of course the unforgettable three ankle twists). Despite the huge dinner I ate the night before, my stomach was complaining it wanted food. “Feed me Seymour!” it seemed to shout. I went through my morning ritual; made warm oatmeal, nice strong coffee, and packed up camp. I had 24 miles to tackle from Punchbowl shelter to Seely Woodworth shelter. One downhill to Lynchburg Reservoir, a huge climb to Cow Camp Gap, and a roller coaster on the ridge passing Cold Mountain stood between me and my goal. Under an hour from cracking my eyes open, I was standing on the trail, head lamp strapped on, ready to start another day in the dark.
Looking out in the dark, not much too see but a few lights from houses
I descended through the dark, down, down, down until I found the wooden suspended bridge that crossed a small section of the Lynchburg Reservoir. Lights from a few houses lakeside beamed through the night. I trekked on, curious if the people knew there were hikers passing through the darkness nearby. That morning was particularly chilly; I had my facemask on fighting the chill back. As I started to ascend the next bit up, the sun rose and with it the wind, which made me question whether I should pull on my mid-layer. Hoping my body would generate enough heat from the climb I pressed on.
Creek and trail parallel through the old Brown Mountain Creek Community
I walked through a small section of trail that had remnants of Brown Mountain Creek Community, which was a freed slave colony established in the early 1900s. You could still see rock walls meant to hold the creek at bay and chimney stacks where a dwelling once stood. This section was very cool to see, the trail ran parallel with the creek until finally crossing just below Brown Creek Mountain shelter. At the bridge crossing I met a south bound through hiker named Crow, a name he alleged “was given to me by the Mountain because every time I stopped, crows would be in flight overhead”. He was a funny guy and in a hurry to beat the coming snow that night. He talked about hiking through the night to get to the James River Bridge crossing where he would catch a ride into town to hole up until the snow passed. I wished him good luck and after a short break at the shelter, headed up the big grind to Cow Camp Gap
Twisted trees and vines on the big climb to Cow Camp Gap
I pushed up the long, windy, cold climb. This was one of those sections where you just have to put your head down and get to work. I didn’t miss much, most of the woods through here were twisted, lifeless, and a muddy brown. I finally hit the ridge, drenched in sweat. Without pause I got after the up down section until I finally broke from the woods and into the open fields of Cold Mountain. It was rightfully named! The wind whipped through this open section, but the expansive views were still worth hanging out for a while and snapping some pictures.
360 View on top of Cold Mountain (click to enlarge)
I pressed on into the roller coaster section where you would go up a 600 ft climb, then right back down 700 feet, up, down, in canyons, out of canyons. At this point I was pretty tired from the miles, and the last few miles became mundane. A mile or so before my destination, I stopped next to a lush green moss area near a creek to refill my water (and my spirits) for the last push to the shelter.
creek where I stopped to filter just before Seely Woodward shelter
Soon after filtering, I finally reached the shelter and when I dropped my pack, a lot of the fatigue of the day went with it. After setting up my tent, a south bound through hiker with a huge white beard named “Just Jim” pulled up to the shelter. He was given the trail name “Just Jim” by a friend because he wasn’t a big talker when he first started on the trail, and his name was Jim (not to be too cutesy). People would say “oh that’s Just Jim”, and it stuck. He was doing a YoYo (two through hikes in one year where you hike down the AT then back up) for the Disabled Veterans (if you’re interested in knowing more check out http://hike4veterans.com/). Everyone is out there for their own reasons, and this guy was out there for a good one! We chatted a bit about the coming snow, gear and food selection, and the trail before crashing out. Another awesome day on the trail!
“Just Jim”
Guard rail of the suspension bridge near the Lynchburg Reservoir
Creek crossing
Bridge where I met Crow just below Brown Mountain shelter
Deer tracks
Well hello there tree
Atop cold mountain
traversing Cold Mountain
Gotta love Moss
Apparently this red velvety flower thing is staghorn sumac, which according to Tom Termini, is awesome for making “Indian lemonade”. Thanks Tom for the info!
Let the roller coaster begin!
Cool shroom formations on a tree
creek where I stopped to filter just before Seely Woodward shelter
Goodnight sun!
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 50s, Low in the lower 30s, Overcast / Sunny
Water: 5 liters
Food: 2 Nature Valley Peanut butter granola bar, 2 Clif Bars, 1 meal replacement protien bar, 1 bag of beef jerky (3oz), 1 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Quaker Real Medleys, 1 Mountain House Beef Stew meal, pro bag energy gummys, Pizza Pringles, 4 Oreos
Time: 11 hours day 4
Distance: 24 Miles one way from Punchbowl shelter to Seely Woodward shelter
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
View from the ridge North of the James River (click to enlarge)
The third day was all about making miles and trying to stay dry. I planned on pushing 25 miles from Thunder Hill shelter to Punchbowl Shelter. If I failed to hit my mark I would be out of position to finish on time (another day on the trail would mean a need for food I did not have with me) and if I got wet, my down bag would be useless at night and I would have to bail or improvise. It had rained all through the night, and the subsequent fog hung around like a bad date, so I decided to throw on my rain gear and wear trail runners for at least the morning (trail runners are thin, light weight shoes that wont retain a lot of water if they get wet).
Passing the James River Face Wilderness trailhead in the dark
I finished my morning ritual of cooking breakfast and packing up camp. I felt like I was getting the process down to a science when I strapped my pack on, ready to let out into the dark. The fog still weighed down so heavily that I could only see about 4-6 feet ahead of me, even with the aid of my headlamp. I trekked through the wet leaves covering the muddy trail downhill towards the James River, which would mark the half way point of my journey, the lowest elevation I would hit on trail, and my next filtering point! Wearing trail runners and trekking downhill through all the wet leaves on off camber rock, it wasn’t long before I had a misstep and twisted my ankle. Sharp pain went searing through my left leg and ankle, and this was only the first of three slips that would happen that day.
First sighting of the James River
Paranoid about my ankles, I treaded lightly and leaned heavy on my trekking poles, hoping for the best. I was lucky the first time; another misstep could spell disaster. The sun soon rose and the fog lifted, along with my spirits. Twisting trail finally gave way to my first views of the James River a few miles before Matt’s Creek Shelter. I was excited to touch the river and claim half my tremendous goal complete! This time of year, all the leaves have fallen and scattered across the trail, which give you opportunities to see the vast landscapes that surround the trail. However, some of my favorite views were of creek crossing where I got to see the moss, ferns, and low-level plant life thrive! It was such a contrast to the surrounding leafless, almost lifeless, trees.
Foot Bridge spanning the James River
I finally reached the footbridge that spanned the river. Upon crossing, I took a quick snack break and the opportunity to remove my shoes and let them dry some from the morning’s wet walk. I was one happy fella at this point, but I knew I still had 11 miles and a big gain to conquer before the day was done. I finished my break, filtered water and got back to the grind. The next grade was one of those 800-1000 feet of gain within a mile that never seemed to end. Half way up, to my surprise, I came across an older couple (in their 70s) that were just “out for a short 6 miler”! This made me laugh a bit. I know some people half their age that wouldn’t want to even think about taking on this section of trail, and here these two were happier than a couple of pigs in a mud pit! I had a quick chat with them and kept on trekking.
360 View on Bluff Mountain Peak (click to enlarge)
I finally reached the top of the ridge dripping in sweat. By this time the sun came out and it warmed up to the 60s, which seemed like an anomaly. My long sleeves and pants were all rolled back! I pressed on weaving back and forth, up and down, along the ridge until I peeked out on Bluff Mountain. This was the end of my climb and I was happy to find it! The last few miles I drug my tired body across the last miles and into the Punchbowl Shelter where I set up my tent, made a huge meal, and read 2 lines of my book before passing out like a rock. It was one good day.
Pushing through the morning fog
Two deer, just a few yards off the trail
First open view after deceding from Thunder Hill towards the James River
Oh I love the green moss!
Matts Creek
Matts Creek Shelter
Crossing Foot Bridge at the James River
Bridge headed toward John Hallow shelter
The sun beading through the trees
Rocks towards the top of the ridge after the James River
A little more work to do! 5.2 Miles to Bluff Mountain, my last climb for the day!
Thought this was a cool little spot, looked like a good wedding venue
The trail rolls on!
Moss lined trail leading towards Punchbowl Shelter
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 60s, Low in the upper 30s, Overercast Morning Sunny/Warm Afternoon
Water: 5 liters
Food: 2 Nature Valley Dark Chocolate Bars, 2 Nature Valley Cashew Bars, 2 Clif Bars, 1 bag of beef jerky (3oz), 1 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Quaker Real Medleys, 1 Mountain House Chicken A La King meal (my fav), pro bag energy gummys, Sweet Potatoe Fries (Chips)
Time: 11 hours day 3
Distance: 25 Miles one way from Thunder Hill Shelter to Punchbowl Shelter
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
The second day, I woke and started moving with a purpose: to outrun the rain that was on the way! I had been checking the weather like it was my favorite t.v. show the week leading up to the trip and I knew the second day was going to have thunderstorms in the afternoon lasting through the night. I had 16 miles to cover and the bad weather was supposed to roll in about 2pm. I woke up, made breakfast, packed up my gear and sipped down my last bit of coffee as I let out onto the trail in the dark.
I trekked a few miles by headlamp, downhill to Jennings Springs where I filtered water for the day ahead of me. The morning was chilly and filtering the cold water was a chore in and of itself! Once complete I started the uphill battle towards Thunder Hill about 3000 feet above my current elevation. I had some work to do! The sun slowly rose but never peaked through the overcast morning protecting the cool canyons where the creeks trickled through. On one such creek crossing I stumbled upon Bryant Ridge shelter, this was well built sizeable double decker was meant to house 20 people! I took a quick break here before pushing on through the woods to my next stop.
Bryant Ridge Shelter
As I trekked upwards towards ridge where I planned to camp a creepy fog rolled in. I knew this was the precursor to the thunderstorms which were marching towards me. The low lying cloud engulfed the twisted woods around me and reminded me of a scene out of sleepy hollow. To add to the fun I walked past a tree that had been freshly stripped of bark from about 9 feet up to the base. There was no mistaking that this was bear sign. Only thing I could do was keep trekking.
Bring on the Fog!
It started to sprinkle just a mile before my destination, I quickly threw on my rain jacket and pack cover and pushed through the fog. I finally reached the empty shelter and set up camp, filtered more water, and got into my tent ready to read the rest of the rainy afternoon. Just as I went to zip the tent closed a cold wet nose came sniffing my hand! To my relief it was a German shepherd named Chaos (and not a bear). A southbound through hiker and his dog “Chaos and Company” had just arrived to seek haven in the shelter from the rain. They had started hiking in Pennsylvania for a short 4 day trip which turned into a 2 month excursion after they decided just to stay on trail. They were a funny crew: he told me about only treating AT water with bleach, special all natural dog food for Chaos, his homemade couscous StoveTop Ramen meals, and his weakness for coffee (guy had a full bag of sugar and creamer, obviously lot too concerned with weight). It always amazing the people you meet out on the trial! I finished a few pages of my book and passed out to the sound of rain on the shelter roof.
Up up we go! Leaving Bryan Ridge Shelter getting ready to climb to Thunder Hill
Half way between Bryant Ridge and Thunder Hill
Cold Much? Nice ice sickles forming from water runoff
Oh the Moss and the Fog, what a combo!
More green moss!
Bear sign, not cool, man it looks fresh!
Captive Rock underpass! Watch your head
Thunder Hill Shelter engulfed in fog
Tent Setup in the shelter, double protection against the rain
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 50s, Low in the upper 30s, Overcast Thunderstorms
Water: 5 liters
Food: 2 Nature Valley Peanut butter granola bar, 2 Clif Bars, 1 meal replacement protien bar, 1 bag of beef jerky (3oz), 1 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Quaker Real Medleys, 1 Mountain House Beef Stroganoff meal, pro bag energy gummys, Doritos, 3 Oreos
Time: 8 hours day 2
Distance: 16 Miles one way from Cove Mountain Shelter to Thunder Hill Shelter
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
The first day, my sister dropped me at the trail head just off Interstate 81 north of Roanoke, Virginia. It was 19 degrees F and my pack was bulging from 5 days of food, 6 liters of water, inclement weather clothes, and the other basic backpacking essentials: stove, sleeping bag/pad, and a tent. I said my goodbyes, strapped on the beast of a backpack and headed up the trail. After only a few tenths of a mile up a decent grade, under the weight of my pack, I started thinking about why I was even on this trail to begin with.
I had been planning this Appalachian Trail section hike for some time, it was mainly to test myself and see if I could push a 5-day, unsupported backpacking trek into less than perfect weather and come out on the other side smiling. Completing this trek would tell me if I am capable of going after the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail), a 2650 mile trail from Mexico to Canada crossing California, Oregon, and Washington. Let the test begin!
I pushed through the first small wooded section, passing through a gate that opened into a cow pasture. I look up to see a group of 1 ton beasts standing around, a few milking small calves. I decided it was best to circumvent these guys and made a large sweeping left around the grazing group. Trekking along, I passed through a few private sections of land before getting back into the woods. Plenty of big gain trail padded with fallen brown leaves. About 2 hours into the trek, I came across a sign that said I had only traveled 3.3 miles. My heart sunk. At this rate I would be hiking into dark in attempts to cover the 22 miles I had planned on completing that day. I decided to dump about a liter of water (due to how little I was drinking in the cold weather) and pressed on.
After making some good progress, I came across the first of many 3 sided shelters on the trail. The Appalachian Trail has shelters set up for through hikers with (sometimes) nicely built outhouses just a short walk away. These things were like having a Hilton on the trail! I kept trekking through the woods until I found the first of a few Blue Ridge Parkway crossings, where over the next few miles the trail crisscrossed a scenic road through the mountain. At one of these crossings, where I stopped for a quick break, I met Corinna and Wil. They were from Seattle and were just traveling around, stopping and chatting with/helping through hikers while offering hot tea, food, water…whatever the hikers may need. They were a very cool couple, I chatted with them for a bit about all the places they had traveled and where they planned on going. Regular drifters, living in different areas in different times of the year, they were collecting retirement and enjoying their house on wheels seeing all the country had to offer. Really good people!
I pressed on knowing the mileage I had to cover wouldn’t just melt away like time, and I still had some work to do before night fall! The trail would duck into wooded areas where you could see nothing of the surrounding area, then randomly open up to see a segment of the surrounding mountains before closing back up and engulfing you in trees and shrub.
I watched the sunset in the distance as I pressed through the last mile. The colors were incredible! The Blue Ridge sunset had deep blues and purples you don’t get back in Arizona. I really enjoyed seeing the red rolling hills in the distance and all the little house/cabin porch lights pop on as the night fell on the mountains. I reached the Cove Mountain shelter exhausted. I set up my tent, cooked dinner, and before I knew it, I was sound asleep in my sleeping bag, oblivious to the sounds of the woods around me. With the first day in the bag I slept like a baby, needless to say I was tired!
AT starting point in Trouteville on Route 11 just North of Roanoke
Brown leaves pad the trail through the woods
Mountains in the distance peak through the trees
Moss lined trial and trees
Pine goodness
Good views from Blue Ridge Highway
First crossing of the AT and the Blue Ridge Highway
Corinna and Wil - Trail Angels
Good views from Blue Ridge Highway
Cove Mountain here I come!
Nothing like the woods of VA
Golden hour in the Va woods
Sun is getting ready for bed
Sunset on Day 1 over the valley
Sunset on Day 1
HIKE STATS:
Weather: Hi 50s, Low in the upper 10s, Sunny
Water: 5 liters
Food: 2 Nature Valley Peanut butter granola bar, 2 Clif Bars, 1 Clif Builder bar, 1 bag of beef jerky (3oz), 1 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Quaker Real Medleys, 1 Mountain House Chicken Parmesan meal, pro bag energy gummys, pringles
Time: 11 hours day 1
Distance: 22 Miles one way from Rout 11 to Cove Mountain Shelter
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Phoenix has some of the best sunrises and sunsets I’ve ever seen! There are long, open landscapes interrupted only by rising mountain ranges, which stand like sentries watching over the desert valleys. Once you ascend one of these mountains, you are presented with a view that words can’t describe and where pictures don’t do justice. Get out there and experience it if you have the chance!
Every once in a while, you have to pull out your stopwatch and see how you measure up to the time-trial hikers (curiosity killed the cat right?!). I haven’t timed myself in quite a while. It’s mainly because I go to the mountains to lose track of time, not to become ruled by it. However, after hearing friends boast about their summit times, curiosity got the better of me. Let’s just say I’m no Usain Bolt, and I’ve come to accept that there is always someone out there faster. I am content with beating my own time, trying to be better than I was the day before. That being said, sometimes it’s nice to know I am not the last guy up the mountain pushing for time.
I pressed hard for the peak. At the summit and on the way down, I was rewarded with the opportunity to see a gorgeous sunset. I find myself struggling to put the camera down when the light is just right. There’s just something to rocks that look blue against the orange, yellow, and reds of a fiery Phoenix sunset. Another awesome hike, I am so glad I have the chance to do this!
Phoenix in the distance
Gleaming golden goodness
Gold and Blue battle just before nightfall
Geo Plaque at the real peak
Descending from the peak and the sun is getting ready for bed
I woke in the middle of the night to a noise outside my tent. My tent was sent up at a trailhead flat downhill from the entry road. Out of the corner of my eye I see a bright light approaching my tent and I immediately became very awake and alert. The light came down the hill and hovered right over my tent. I grabbed my Kabar knife and strapped my headlamp on. Taking a deep breath I grabbed the tent zipper and like lighting pulled the zipper open and came out ready to face whoever was on the other side. To my surprise I was faced with a huge big bright moon . . . I felt pretty silly.
The moon just so happened to rise just over the entry road and the noise I head was the wind pushing on the sides of my tent. I went back to sleep and was woken again by the sound of my alarm going off. Today I had to boogy out of the mountains and get back home for a dose of reality that the work week was quickly approaching. I got up, packed up the sleeping gear, and made breakfast. Soon I was putting the last bit of my camp into my backpack and throwing on some sunscreen for the day to come. It was still dark out but it was time to boogy on!
Morning!
I headed back to my truck the same way I came in, this trek has so many open mind blowing views! I saw not a soul on the trail until about 6 hours into my trek when came across the trail maintenance crew who I had seen the day before. They were taking the afternoon to do a quick day hike before heading back home. I chatted for a few minutes before tackling the last 6 miles of my journey.
360 at a saddle looking towards Saddle Mountain. (Click to enlarge)
Lesson learned here: Go prepared! Of course this is common sense, but everyone makes mistakes . . . let just hope the consequences are minor! On this trek I opted to leave my water filter behind and carry all my water for the 2 day journey (8.5 liters of water). I wanted to simulate a similar pack weight for a trip I have been planning for which would require food for 5 days. Long story short, I underestimated my water. I should have carried 10.5 liters and knew it the morning when I woke and broke camp. I was 4.5 miles out when I sucked down the last drop of water from my osprey 3 liter bladder. I was 1 o’clock and the sun was high, and temps were much warmer than the day before. My dried mouth and cracking lips for the last stretch of this trip was a reminder that its better to overestimate water consumption. I finished out my trek and got back to the truck where I guzzled a half full warm water bottle I had sitting in the cab of my truck. I was so thankful that I got off trail without getting too dehydrated. After chilling for a minute, I turned the key to my truck, headed for the closest gas station to re-supply on water and gator-aid. Another gorgeous trip completed!
Food: 2 Nature Valley Peanut butter granola bar, 2 Clif Bars, 1 Clif Builder bar, 1 Meal replacement protein bar, 2 Nature Valley Protien bars, 1 bag of beef jerky (3oz), 1 avocado, 1 via starbucks instant coffee, 1 Quaker Real Medleys, 1 Mountain House Beef Stew meal
Time: 8 hours day 1, 7 hours day 2
Distance:16.5 Miles one way
GEAR:
58 liter exos osprey backpack
Big Anges UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Jet Boil – Sol
Black Daimond trekking poles
No water filter – I carried all my water in (8.5 liters – I should have brought 10) to train for a hike coming up where I would be carrying a lot of excess weight. Advise: Bring a filter! There are creeks and opportunities to use it.
The AZT (Arizona Trail – 800 miles) spanning from Mexico to Utah across the great state of Arizona was added to my list of wish hikes as soon as I found out about it. Unfortunately I don’t have the vacation or off time to be able to through hike it straight for 60 days, so instead I have been section hiking it when I can. I had the opportunity to knock out the 22nd section this weekend and I jumped at the chance!
I dumped my truck right off of Bee line highway 87 Saturday morning and set out on the trail. After navigating a wash that goes under the highway I popped out in rolling hills and wide open views. There are a few cattle gates to navigate, just be sure to leave them as you found them, be it opened or closed. The trek starts flat to begin with on a few 4X4 roads, the pushes you into some canyon washes that are hardly ever traveled. A small creek was running through the wash to my surprise. I pushed through the canyon around a few switchers where I was once again greeted with huge wide open views. There are some power lines here, what seems to be the last sign of civilization looking forward, turning back there are a few small farm houses in sight.
Pushing further on, the trail gets back to single track hopping up on creek banks and back into washes until once again your greeted with huge wide open views and a trail that meanders along through it all. I found myself skirting the lower portion of Saddle Mountain when I came across Kim and Norm, 2 hikers from Phoenix who were turned around and looking for Squaw flats. I was happy to have the company and invited them to join me until we passed their junction. We pushed on as a trio talking about experience in the “hiking business” and how long they have both been at it.
Wide open spaces – Saddle Mountain – Click to Enlarge
As the trail skirted further we came across Ranger Mark Suban and his trail maintenance crew of about 8 old and young. I had never seen a crew out working before and was delighted to stop for a second and chat with them and thank them for their service to the AZT. Those guys keep the trail going and it’s always on a volunteer basis!
Incredible views! click to enlarge
Leaving the maintenance crew behind we trekked on until we found the switch back drop off into a patch of pines where the 3 amigos would split ways. We stopped for a quick lunch and chatted about our jobs and hikes we wish we could do. Soon I packed up and pushed the last 4 miles out to Peeley trail head where I would camp for the night. Those 4 miles were definitely not as forgiving as an easy trail skirt around the base of Saddle Mountain! Drop offs, washes, a section I affectionately call the ‘tunnel of love’ with manzanita and holly bushes surrounding a water channel. Big grind elevation gains with astonishing views and quite a bit of bushwhacking and trail finding through tricky washes finally brought me to the intersection of AZT#22 and #23.
The Peeley trailhead was just a 0.5 mile push ahead. It was only 4pm by the time I reached it and I was ready to just set up camp, make a Beef Stew Mountain house, and kick back for a bit finally cracking a book I purchased a month ago. What a good first day, as temps began to drop I crawled into my tent and read by headlamp for a few hours until I finally crashed. The next day would mean my return journey back to the truck with another section of the AZT in my pocket. (Post Continued on Day 2/2)
Tunnel that goes under highway 87 - this is a portion of the AZT!
AZT, found it!
Sad day for this big guy
Cairns
Wash with water for first closed in canyon after the open fields
Very cool rocks in this wash, the golden wheat-like plants on the hillside were awesome
Stellar colors in the rocks on this uphill push
Killer open views
Red rock Cairn
Sectioned of burned Manzanita here and there, felt sorry for the fellas
Another cool AZT marker
Hello Fall!!
I miss the changing leaves from back east, nice to see these guys in full reds!
Food: 2 Nature Valley Peanut butter granola bar, 2 Clif Bars, 1 Clif Builder bar, 1 Meal replacement protein bar, 2 Nature Valley Protien bars, 1 bag of beef jerky (3oz), 1/2 sandwich ziplock of trail mix, 1 avocado, 1 via Starbucks instant coffee, 1 Quaker Real Medleys, 1 Mountain House Beef Stew meal
Time: 8 hours day 1, 7 hours day 2
Distance:16.5 Miles one way
GEAR:
58 liter Exos Osprey backpack
Big Anges UL2 tent
Flash REI sleeping pad
Cosmic Down Kelty Sleeping Bag (rated to 20 deg F)
Jet Boil – Sol
Black Diamond trekking poles
No water filter – I carried all my water in (8.5 liters – I should have brought 10) to train for a hike coming up where I would be carrying a lot of excess weight. Advise: Bring a filter! There are creeks and opportunities to use it.
Echo Canyon trail is one of the most frequented hikes here in Phoenix AZ. People are looking for a challenge, and they will find it here coming it at 1300 feet of gain in 1.1 miles! During the late Fall/Winter/early Spring weekends this mountain looks like a gang of ants at a picnic, people crawling everywhere! Everyone’s on the mountain for their own reasons, and I have no problem moving over for those trying to enjoy some outdoor goodness!
I started out this hike just trying to go a slow jam, figured I had been getting a good fill of trails during the week and I could take a chill day to peak out. For some reason as soon as I get on an incline I subconsciously switch over to grind mode and get after it, today was no different! I love pushing hard for the summit, then going slow on the downs enjoying the views and saving the knees.
The trail isn’t too hard to follow (well signed as seen in the slider below) and if you go at a popular time of year you can always just follow the other people on the trail. There will be many times you look up and think “oh the top must be right over that hump”, then you finally top that hump only to find another formidable uphill staring you right in the face! If your heart isn’t pounding out of your chest at the end of this uphill then you must be something other than human! Great views all along the way, and I was lucky to arrive early enough in the afternoon where it wasn’t too crowded. Bring some water and your guts; you’ll need it for this city mountain park trek!
Another beautiful day for a good hike up a mountain!! Piestewa Peak is another one of my favorite weekday training hikes in the Phoenix area. I say training, but this peak is nothing to take lightly! It has 1200 feet of gain in 1.2 miles, a grind hikers paradise with 1000 feet of elevation gain per mile stats.
I set out right after work, hit the house, changed, and jetted for the mountain. Temps were in mid to high 70s another perfect day! My usual motivation is to push very hard for the peak and then take it slow on the down, saving the knees and taking in the scenery. The mountains are my way of staying in shape so I love to find a tough peak to bag and really getting after it. Today was no different
Once I peaked out I had a nice chat with a couple who were trail runners just taking in the views for the day. A Chuckwalla (seen in slider below) poked out just below the peak to get some sun and do a few masculine push-ups claiming his territory and showing off for the ladies! After some pictures and a quick breather I headed back down taking plenty of pics and pausing to watch the sun begin to set over the city at the many lookout points along the trail.
this mountain reminds me of Superman’s homeland (Krypton) with the way the rocks protrude from the mountain, very cool geology. This hike is pretty much a stair-master on the side of a mountain! Get out and check this peak out if you haven’t yet!
Trailhead
map of Phoenix Mountain Park at Trailhead
Starting up the trail looking back at the parkinglot
Time to get some gain!
Turn the corner on the West side to see the peak and a great grind!
Bench about 1/2 way up the Mountain, good views
Cool little side stretch for a breather if needed. 3 switchbacks past 1/2 way bench
View of Camelback from the top
Lower peak thats fun to climb on
The lower peak that post folks go to NOT THE REAL SUMMIT . . . shh
Real Summit will have a brass geo marker
Lil friend (old guy) Chuckwalla that decided to pop out to check the peak out
South Mountain is one of those hidden gems that so many people seem to overlook and underrate for one reason or another (those of you who frequent this park know what I am talking about). I have news for you, this 16,000 acre Park is a powerhouse! So many opportunities to rack up huge miles, and really pick up some good gain if you know which trails to go after. Most people think of it as a Mountain bike haven, granted it is, but so much more!
This afternoon I let out from work with a distance training loop in mind to beat down before the sun set on me. I planned on starting on Holbert trail, then tying into National trail for a few miles before bombing down Kiwanis and finishing the loop with Los Lomitas trail and Box Canyon Loop to get back to the truck.
Temps were once again as they have been this week, just like baby bears porridge: just right (low 70s)!! I started out knowing I didn’t have much time to crank out this loop so I was on a mission to get my butt moving. Holbert trail is a great trail for anyone, and deff a recommendation of mine for people just breaking into the hiking scene. The elevation gain doesn’t kill to much and the milage is decent, especially if you take the offshoot to dobbins point for some great views of the city.
At any rate, I kept trekking on and was just totally humbled by the views of the sunset on the trail. I couldn’t put my camera down!! Every time I turned a corner there was another incredible Kodak moment to be captured, I couldn’t help myself but snap a few.
Finally the sun was setting as I descended the last stretch of Kiwanis trail and I was forced to break out the headlamp. I jumped onto Los Lomitas and followed it to Box Canyon Loop (I got off track a few times in the dark). Finally after a small road side trek I found Box Canyon Loop once again and finished out the loop. The following pictures show show some a progression of the trail and the incredible sunset I was honored to witness!
First view of holbert from the canyon - White water tank on left
Hieroglyphs
Water Tank - Trail ascends to the right
Holbert - First view of Dobbins point (building on point)
Sun setting, time to get to work!
Golden Hour
Killer view, Palo Verde just off the trail
Phoenix in the distance
Sun Setting beyond the ridge
Ocotillo off the trail
Goonight sun!
Saguaro cactus
National Trail
Power lines? Why not!
Looking at National trail wrap around the ridge parallel wit the road
Hello fishhook barrel cactus!
Trek on my friend, sun is setting!
Hello night life!
Head lamp time on Los Lomitas Trail
Los Lomitas to Box Canyon
Palo Verde at end of trek in the parking lot for Holbert Trailhead
Aerial topo shot of the GPX trail I completed.
7.0 Miles, 2 hours 23 minutes, Temps: 70s, 0.75 liters of water, 1 protien bar, 1 nature valley granola bar
Hiking is definitely back in full fashion in Phoenix seen my the number of people drawn to the trails like moths to the flame. The temperatures were strangely cool on this afternoons climb (cool for Phoenix haha – low 70s).
Camelback is one of my mid week training hike destinations. You can get some good elevation gain in short miles and its close to the city. Cholla walks a ridge to the peak from the East side of the mountain heading North West towards the peak and is broken up into 2 sections: a lower steady incline that can really get your cardio going, and an upper section which becomes a little more climbey (my fav part).
Cholla is stretched over 1.3 miles from the road side parking to the peak with about 1300 feet of gain. 1000 feet of elevation gain per mile is my kinda trail!!! Cholla’s big brother (Echo Canyon trail – Other summit trail on Camelback Mountain) boasts the same elevation gain in only 1.1 miles. Both trails are their own animal and are great opportunities to condition the body for big weekend endeavors.
Even though ive been up this trail a many of times I still enjoy finding ways to make it interesting and chatting other trail trekkers. Fun fact: There is an old timer that hikes cholla every afternoon (he rocks a white fisherman’s hat) that has completed over 2100 summits, just insane!!! No matter the reason, its always a good excuse to go climb a mountain!
This time of year the sun is setting around 5:45pm which makes for some gorgeous golden hour sunsets. Get out, check it out, you wont be disappointed!
View of the Northern Ridge of SoMo from the Southern Ridge up on National Trail (click to enlarge)
The Two Ridge Tango – a sweet loop on SoMo (South Mountain) consisting of 14 miles of some official and some not-so-official trails.
Was an awesome day in Phoenix with killer temps and even better views. Just needed to get out and grind down some miles to recenter myself. Nothing like some good quality time on a trail to get your head right!
I was surprised to see the amount of people out, but with such perfect weather (60s and overcast) how could you not take advantage. The hike starts with a grind up Warrior (non-official) trail. [Get to the trailhead by going south on 19th Ave until dead ending into SoMo] The gain is killer quick to start with 900 ft of elevation gain in 0.84 miles. I scared up about 5 coyote’s on the push up the ridge. After seeing these guys I hiked for a while with rocks in my hands like ready catapults just in case, but it was really cool seeing such a wild animal so close.
Hit the ridge and went to work on the loop. I came across 2 small groups of people on Alta trail coming from the neighborhoods in South Phoenix, another couple riding horses (sipping on cervezas), and later a big boy-scout troop putting down a 10 miler up on National trail.
I made sure to touch Maricopa peak (highest point near Alta trail) and Goat Hill (high point just east of where Ranger trail ties into National). Took a few picks, enjoyed the views and kept trekkin.
Finally dropped down Ranger and worked my way across the desert and found an old use trail that went up the Ridge, spoke with a cool family of 4 just hanging out and enjoying the views on the North Ridge of SoMo for a moment before pushing on, finishing my loop and getting back to the truck.
2.5 liters of water, 5 hours 0 mins Time, 1 clif bar, 1 avocado, 1 natur valley peanut butter bar, 1 protien bar, 1 plum
Nothing can be said for just getting out and putting a grind down on some trail and really just putting everything behind you and enjoying being outside!
Below is the aerial topo GPX for the loop
Seeking Outdoor Adventure
Find an Adventure
There are TONS of resources out there. Books, websites, word of mouth. These are just a few Go To sites I use to find hike, climbs, and all around adventure.
Do your research on your hike! ALWAYS bring a paper map, do not EVER solely rely on a GPS track to get you there. Alright, now that the “spiel” is out of the way . . . here is how you create some killer custom GPS tracks for yourself that you cannot already download online (and just straight up don’t want to pay for).
Put your GPS tracks to work. You should technically use an actual GPS devise for your tracks. Garmin’s are super solid, accurate, waterproof, and wont break when you drop them. If you don’t have $300 to drop on a GPS, and you are just hiking around town, there are a few good phone Apps will serve the same purpose. The following Apps will allow you to pre-download maps and overlay both GPS tracks and your current GPS location (you don’t need a cell signal, just a clear view to the sky for GPS):
Go prepared! Places like slot canyons or river crossings could quickly swell, or turn into flash flood areas, leaving you stranded or worse. As a part of prepping for your trek, choosing the appropriate gear for weather is critical so you aren’t caught with your pants down.
I like to use a few different sources to cross reference. Here are some great sites I use regularly to check for weather:
It became a boulder hop from there; trying to stay out of the creek for fear of wet feet, while safely descending rock faces slick with moss and no grip. The canyon was beautiful! Bushwacky (is that a real word? oh who cares), but beautiful. Down and down we went until miraculously running into two more group members! Medal and Amy were heading up the canyon we were trying to fight our way out of. They had decided to camp for the night and ascend from the north instead of Y-Bar trail to the south. After a quick greeting (and a warning of what was to come), we pushed onward. More bushwhacking finally let us out to the Barnhardt trail where we all stopped for rest and a quick snack. Everyone was in good spirits, bantering back and forth about previous treks, current events, etc…the usual “trail talk”.
