Tag Archives: JMT

JMT Day 8: Aspen Meadow to Bear Creek (Mile 110 – 129)

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Time to move on from those mosquitoes

We awoke next to the San Joaquin River, which provided some solid white noise for some deep REM sleep. Our serenity was soon broken by the mosquito ambush awaiting us just outside of the tent. The little critters buzzed our ears and stuck their unwelcome probosces in our legs as we packed up camp.

Onward!

It wasn’t long before we were on our feet fleeing from the aggressive assault. A moment’s pause would just attract another nearby horde of mosquitoes so we had good motivation to keep moving. We soon found a good bridge over Turret Creek with a spiffy new John Muir Wilderness sign standing tall on the other side. We had officially left Kings Canyon NP, and we were delighted to explore this new national forest.

Thanks for the bridge and the fancy craftsmanship

The forest seemed thick with a lot of downed trees and thick underbrush that could be cleared out with a good controlled burn. Pondos stood tall along with junipers, and sprinkled amongst their branches was the parasitic mistletoe and at their feet little blotches of fungi. Aspen groves popped up from time to time looking glorious and green backlit by the morning’s sun.

Calm lake, still and patient
The grass seems a little greener up here

Soon the trail turned to tight steep switchbacks, almost like a threaded stitch that was holding the mountain together at the seam. We soon popped out of the cover of trees and found manzanita and some sparse pines. Up and up we climbed, the trail seemed relentless until finally we found a lunch meadow paradise fed by a clear stream. A deer walked silently across the meadow as if undisturbed by our presence.

Pretty serene landscape

After meandering through the meadow the trail took off climbing again until we popped up onto a higher plateau that sheltered Western White Pines. Up here we saw 3 more deer, one still had its velvet covering its rack. A few more switchbacks and we found a granite plateau where the Sallie Keys Lakes lay. One fed the other and above them Heart Lake fed them both. We saw a few PCT hikers taking the polar plunge and waved to them as we passed. The final switchbacks took us by clear creeks where we finally found our first Golden Trout! We were so excited to see such a rare threatened fish.

Lakes, clear skies, and trees for days!

We climbed the last switchbacks and finally peaked out at Selden Pass. A small 20 foot stretch of snow awaited us along with our friends Goldie and Workout! We took a break snacking and catching up, chatted about our plans for the rest of the day and went on admiring the view of the lakes below.

Little sketch from the Pass
Izzie plods on down towards some good swimming holes, ahoiiii!
Feeling fresh after a quick dip!

We said goodbye and headed down the north side of the pass pausing at Marie Lake for a quick refreshing swim. As soon as we got out the mosquitoes were on us again, we rushed to get dressed and get moving down the trail. The valley before us descended in a series of small lakes and meadows, pine thickets and aspen groves until finally we reached the beautiful Bear Creek.

More cool downed trees, the growth patterns are so cool!
Creeks galore!
Crushing those creek crossings!

Much like the day before the trail led down the valley hand in hand with the river, giving us great views of its twisting and windings, waterfalls and moments of still tranquility. Soon we happened upon Goldie and Workout, we stopped and joined them for a quick swim, the emerald pool they chose was just too nice to pass by! Once back on the trail we padded through a green carpet wonderland, with Larkspur flowers afoot and aspen overhead, it was like a green tunnel through a fairy woodland.

More fun balance bridges, man its pretty spectacular out here!
Cool old burned down tree, you can see the twist growth right through the core!
This is a big fella, Izzie seems to approve!

We continued pressing on until Bear Creek decided to turn away from the trail and we stopped to filter some water for camp. Soon after, the climb up Bear Ridge began. It may not have been the full 3000 feet gained in the morning over Selden, but it felt like it packed the same punch in 2 miles. Straight up tight switchbacks soon gave us grand vistas of the valley below. After a hard push we found our camp and our friends Goldie and Workout. We set up our tent, made dinner, stretched, and chatted about movies, the future of fish and fire in the west, and took in the views we were all so appreciative to be seeing. It was a great day, and we both felt like we had finally found our trail legs!

Found a small but doable camp for the night, and time to enjoy the sunset!
  • Hike Stats
      • Miles: 19 Total:
        • JMT Miles  (Mile 110 – 129)   
      • GPX Track

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JMT Day 7: Helen Lake to Aspen Meadow (Mile 89 – 110)

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Good morning Sierras!

Golden light had just started to show on the tips of the peaks as we exited the tent. It was a cool morning, yet felt warmer than the last few. The wind and cold over the last few days must have been holding off the mosquitos we had been warned about. We hoped they would hold off for a few more days until we reached Tuolumne. But for the task at hand, Muir Pass awaited. We strapped on our shoes and packs and marched up trail.

Not a bad river crossing!
Alpine lakes are the best lakes.

The nameless alpine lake we slept near fell silent except for the cascading creeks that fed it from the northwest. We hiked up out of the basin leaving the last trees behind and found another alpine lake, this one a perfect mirror showing the snowy granite peaks behind. Each lake had a stream that fed it from the top and a stream that drained it from the bottom. It was a long chain of lakes, like pearls on a necklace, from the top of the pass down to the alpine plateau and eventually the Kings River and then on, hopefully, to the ocean. Sometimes traversing a wide snow patch, sometimes avoiding them by going round. Finally we crested a switchback and the tip of Muir Hut came into view. It was a welcome sight and we both were surprised by how quickly we had reached it. I sat and sketched the hut as Izzie inspected its insides. The fireplace had been bricked in, yet it still had an interesting smell that was hard to describe, it wasn’t dingy or moldy or old, it just smelled like stone and wood. A little small square window looked north and I could imagine what it would be like to watch a blizzard blow from the safety of the shelter.

Hiking up towards Muir Pass!
Boulders are getting good as we climb higher!
Well hello there Muir Pass and Muir Hut!

We picked up our packs once again and headed off, north, down the pass. As we passed the alpine lakes I thought how funny we must seem, like turtles slowly crossing a landscape with everything we needed on our backs. The lakes were beautiful and clear, you could see right down to the bottom. The trail skirted just along the edge of the lowest lake on the alpine plateau and we took a moment to glance back up at the cascading blue turquoise lakes.

Found a little break time after the climb to sketch!
Muir Hut
Back down from the pass towards Evolution Valley!

We continued to descend into the canyon below. Little yellow flowers started popping up trailside, the tundra grew green and finally, to our disappointment a few rude mosquitos came up and sunk their proboscis into each of us without even as much as an introduction! We knew it was time to move, and continued down Evolution Valley.

No fish to be seen, we checked!
Izzie, pretty stoked for lunch and a quick dip!

The last lake came into view, willow became more predominant, tundra flourished in flower, and eventually pines started to show. Little creeklets would come down off the canyon walls, strike across the landscape and somehow find their way into the lakes, like finding their way home.

Creeks are such a welcome sight, low need to carry water is pretty clutch!

 We finally entered a forest of pines, and not a minute too soon as the sun seemed to crank up the heat. We could hear the rumble of a waterfall off in the distance, cicadas buzzing in the trees as we bombed down the switchbacks. We happened upon the beautiful waterfall just a stone’s throw from the trail and stopped for lunch. A swim was almost mandatory at this point being day 7 with no shower, but it didn’t seem much of a chore as it cooled our hot feet and knocked off the dirt from our dusty bodies.

Waterfalls all round!

Back into the cover of trees, nice little respite from the baking sun!

Large granite boulders took over the descent and grassy glades appeared along the flat portions of the crystal clear Evolution Creek. We passed McClure cabin, a tall pine building with not much character, but looked functional for the most part. We dropped further still through gates of granite, canopies of conifers, and crossing crystal clear creeklets. It was a pretty surreal afternoon.

Back under the cover of the canopy, a little respite from the warm sun!
We came upon a large creek crossing and I pulled off my shoes and socks, Izzie just stomped on through (ain’t nobody got time for that!). We trekked on soon finding a large waterfall. The water sheets fell over the edge of boulders looking like the baleen plates of a whale. The powerful white frothy water bounded in twisted torrents down the mountain. Soon the trail followed suit and the switchbacks steepened. As we dropped in elevation the flora quickly began to change. Once Lodgepole Pines were now Aspen, Jeffrey Pine, and Juniper covered in lichen, while moss and ferns clung to their feet. The geology changed as well, granite turned to a dark grey metamorphosed gneiss, and finally after a long drop, we found a bridge that spanned the banks of the San Joaquin River.
Big creek crossing! Getting soggy on this one for sure!

Evolution Creek poured into the San Joaquin and the trail bounded after the river as it raced down canyon. Aspen and Junipers studded the landscape and every once in a while we would see a small cottonwood clinging to the sunny side of the river. The river would turn from perfectly clear and quiet to a white torrent of rage as it jumped down a 10-15 foot cascading fall. We stood trailside at one of these waterfalls and imagined the line a kayaker might take to safely descend.  For a moment I imagined myself in a small hard-shell boat taking the rapid turns and somehow clearing a huge drop. I came back to reality and we continued hiking down the canyon.

Man look at that gnarly run!
Flowers sure are poppin!

The river jumped down drops, slid through narrow channels, and went back to being as smooth as glass in just a few miles. We finally chose our camp, just before the river left the trail and we set up our tent beneath the pines. It was a beautiful camp to cap off a beautiful day.  

  • Hike Stats
      • Miles: 21 Total:
        • JMT Miles  (Mile 89 – 110)   
      • GPX Track

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JMT Day 6: Palisades Lake to Helen Lake (Mile 73 – 89)

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Izzie icing her foot, getting ready for the day

We emerged from the tent ready to start the day! The morning light had not yet fallen in the valley by the time our shoes were on trail. We padded our way toward the northeast end of Palisades Lakes and suddenly saw Goldie and Workout also on the move! We stopped for a quick chat, then headed north bombing down tight steep switchbacks amongst the pikas!

Time to get moving!
Peering back up towards the Palisade Lakes feeding the river
Pudgy Pika!

Palisade Creek flowed out of Palisade Lake and into the bottom of the canyon as we hiked our way north. The creek itself winded this way and that, sometimes crashing down on jagged rocks  like gnashing teeth at pour overs.  Rocks marbled dark grey and light  stood guard in this upper section of the canyon. We enjoyed the descent in the cool morning and listened to the tune of birds chirping. One such bird hopping along trailside looked like a sparrow, but was almost a crimson brown and had a rosy pink flash on his wing.

Looking down canyon and into the day ahead!
Izzie, all smiles 🙂

We continued down a slickrock descent, dropping further into the shaded canyon. We looked up, back from where we had come and saw the sun had made a golden rim at the top of a cliff face, backlighting the trees that stood on its edge. The towering giant granite faces gave way to talus fields and eventually green sage, snow brush, and willows that clung to the bottom of the valley where the river ran. The trail zig zagged just below the cliffs and sometimes cut down just near the creek before turning back and clutching to the cliff’s edge as we descended the canyon. Pikas chirped over the sound of the river from time to time, and finally the sun found us, bounding down the trail.

Still enjoying that morning light
Ferns are poppin!
Back down into the tree line, the creek takes over the trail

In some places the trail became soggy, delicate ferns took over in the wet shade, and eventually we reached a patch of forested pine trees. The trail went from granite to padded trail, and we listened as two competing grouse whoomphed their mating calls back and forth. The sweet scent of wood smoke drifted through the forest from a nearby camp. It was a great accompaniment to the padded soil trail.

Rock hopping anyone?!
Well good morning to you too!

Soon we found aspens hugging the creek crossing in a burn area, as if to make a quick hostile take over where the pines had once stood. A large black lizard (skink?) with a blue underbelly scampered up one of the dead standing trees and a robin in the distance landed on a nearby tree. We were soon back in pines, when all of a sudden we found our first Black Cottonwood of the trip! We were really losing elevation now! The aspen forest grew larger, in both number and size and the sooty grouse seemed happy here as we counted at least 9 different whooopphhss through this section of canyon. We even found what we thought to be fresh bear scratches in aspen!

Distance peaks, standing proud

The going was surprisingly easy given the adventure going over 2 passes the day before. We happily plodded on until we found the Middle Fork of Kings River, which cut across the canyon we had descended. We started paralleling the Middle Fork as we entered Le Conte Canyon, and watched it go from flat and calm in an open meadow to a raging white torrent of a waterfall in a turn of the trail.  As we plodded up the trail the creek meandered close then far, and finally when it came close enough we stopped for lunch. We stripped down and took a quick dip in the frigidly cold river and then sunbathed like lizards on the white granite beach as we stuffed our gullets with a tasty lunch.

Those aren’t tiger marks, I can tell you that much

Satiated, we pressed on, all the while watching the river make magical waterfalls, twists and turns, it was a mesmerizing thing to watch. At one point we crossed a small bridge, bent railings on the upstream side as if it had taken a big hit from a boulder being rolled down the river. We saw a small bird with a grey body and bright red head (Ruby Crowned Kinglet?) among the aspens as we climbed. Seemed like wildlife really thrives here.

River life is a good life!
Taking in all the meadows!
The rising granite never ceases to amaze
Lunch time!

We bumped into our friends Goldie and Workout once again and chatted on about our plans for the rest of the day before setting off again up the trail. The trail then turned up the heat and we started climbing arduously. The creek formed huge waterfalls over slickrock like a rippling curtain, almost looking like a bride’s veil or train of a wedding dress. This section near the falls had blooming tundra, moss and ferns, and reminded both of us so much of the Mist Trail, only without the hundreds of tourists.

Up up and away!
Hungry hungry tree!
Back down in the lower canyons

Enjoying the scenery, but working hard for the miles we pressed on, switchback after switchback grew steeper and the trail intensified its gain until finally we reached a large emerald blue lake at the top of La Conte Canyon just before the final climb to Muir Pass. It was stunning, and teaming with bullfrog tadpoles. Although non-native and invasive, it was still interesting to see such huge tadpoles with legs, in the midst of metamorphosis. We found a nice pad below a tree and set up our tent for the evening. Some cooking and stretches later, we found ourselves tucked away snug in bed before the sun went down. Such is the life of a backpacker! 

Izzie leading on!
Care for a dip!?
Wow, these are some big boys!
  • Hike Stats
      • Miles: 16 Total:
        • JMT Miles  (Mile 73 – 89)   
      • GPX Track

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JMT Day 5: Pinchot and Mather Pass (Mile 53.5 – 73)

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It was a cool chilly morning, as we packed our things together. Izzie went to soak her foot in the river as I finished packing up the tent. Still not sure how she manages that first thing in the morning, it must be excruciating. The cold wind was low, water white noise high from the nearby creek when we finally strapped our packs on ready to take our first steps.

Waterfall in the valley as we climb towards the pass!

As we hiked up the valley we watched the creek roll down its belly in beautiful white cascading falls, sometimes fanning out, sometimes flowing over slick granite, others crashing onto large rocks. We left our hoods on as we climbed up the valley. Our hands shot with pain as the blood finally flowed back into our hands again. Izzie went to cross a creek and unwittingly placed a foot on an icy rock, slllip, wet feet on an already cold morning. The only saving grace is that we had a large climb to keep us warm.

Izzie, stoked to get moving and shake the frost
Camped beneath this little gem for the night.

The sun still hadn’t found our faces as we quietly passed the  uppermost trail camp a few miles below the pass. It was the last big forested refuge before the stark landscape above. There were still quite a few tents nestled below the trees, still quiet with sleeping hikers stowed away. As we climbed higher we heard a sooty grouse make his un-deniable mating call, a low woomph woomph woomphhh. I love hearing such interesting birds, especially far out in the backcountry!

Tall, twisted, and scraggly, guarding the trail
Up we go, towards Pinchot Pass!
Beautiful flowers, show their colors in the meadow.

The frosty soil crunched beneath our feet as we ascended to Pinchot Pass. The interesting ice columns that grew below the soil’s surface looked like miniature skyscrapers, glassy crystalline pinnacles crushing beneath our feet!

Just a tad chilly!
The sun keeps us company!
Ice patterns trailside

When the sun finally reached us, we had a view of a huge red ridge, frozen creeks trickling across the alpine, speckled with lush tundra. The water that flowed below the frozen creek’s surface pulsed like a lava lamp, trapped air bubbling together and flowing slowly beneath the ice. It was such a colorful pass, red iron rocks, green lush tundra with purple flowers, so much more color than the other fully grey granite passes we had encountered.

View back south of the pass
Views on the other side, beautiful colors in the rocks appear!

We finally reached the pass and sat for a snack to look over the vast landscape we had just traversed. Soon Goldie and Workout surprisingly came into view. We exclaimed welcomes and were glad to meet back up since our brief chat the afternoon before. Once snacks were done, we bid farewell and headed down the north side of Pinchot Pass.

Fun little sketch from the Pinchot Pass!

The valley was slightly different here than the last, small willows grew creekside, ice waterfalls led to beautiful emerald lakes across rolling planes, all under the watchful eye of the great sheets of grey granite that constructed the canyon walls above. Above grey, green and lush below.

Glacier lakes and granite as far as the eye can see
Purple flowers pop up sporadically throughout the valley

We bombed down the valley chatting on and enjoying the beautiful views. After a long drop we reached the creek bottom and stopped for lunch near Kings River. It was nice to kick up our feet after a long climb and descent. We finally packed up and headed north past fields of purple shooting stars, so far it seems to be the flower of the JMT.

Onward!

After leaving the river bottom the scene seemed to open up. The green grass field speckled with boulders and lodgepole pines seemed to singularly dominate the landscape. As we climbed the trees thinned, and only sparsely speckled the landscape covered in tundra and a few lakes. The grey granite started to take over again. The padded trail soon changed to chunky rocks and eventually small boulders which we had to dodge. This really started to go to work on our feet as we climbed. Switchback after switchback as we inched up closer to Mather Pass.

The flowers doing their thing!
Izzie on another crossing.
The climb continues!

When we finally reached the top it seemed like a sigh of relief was in order, but a sigh too early. The downhill switchbacks were scattered with large rocks and we traveled carefully down trying not to roll an ankle, or stub a toe. The Palisade Lakes came into view but they seemed so far away. Yet, we pushed on, after rolling trail took us on a rollercoaster ride and really gave our feet a true beating we finally found ourselves on the edge of Palisade Lake. We put up our tent, cooked dinner, stretched, and crawled our tired yet satisfied bodies into our small snug tent. Another good day on the JMT!

Descending the Pass, headed to camp!
Almost to the lake and finally food and rest for the day =)
Camp at Paradise Lakes
  • Hike Stats
      • Miles: 19.5 Total:
        • JMT Miles  (Mile 53.5 – 73)   
      • GPX Track

 

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JMT Day 4: Woods Creek: Kearsarge Pass + (Mile 40.5 – 53.5)

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oh that morning light!

An imposing granite face over Flower Lake was the first to catch the morning’s light. The sun started peaking through the trees and gave all the leaves a golden glow. Another magical morning in the Sierras! We finished packing up after breakfast and quickly got on the trail knowing we had some climbing to do today!

Trekking up towards Kearsarge Pass
Big Pothole Lake

Hoodies off, we set out, Izzie in the lead pushing strong after resting her foot/ankle in the afternoon before periodically forcing it into the shivering lake. We both kept our stride, even when the wind started whipping as we approached Kearsarge Pass. Down in the lake below the switchbacks we could see the wind and sun’s work on the water’s surface. It whipped and swirled while the sun gleamed on its surface making rapid moving shapes like a murmuration of starlings.

Finally we reached the pass and instantly put hoodies back on, the wind was unforgiving on the west side of the pass and nipped at our heels as we quickly descended, seeking refuge in the trees below. Small patches of ice were surprisingly still present on trail, we carefully navigated around them. Down, down, down, we went until finally reaching the trees, yet the wind still persisted. We could see Kearsarge Lake in the distance, and after a small hillock, the green Bullfrog Lake came into view.

Coming over the pass, nice and windy!
Kearsarge Lakes

We trekked on and soon found ourselves back to the junction where the JMT meets the trail to Kearsarge Pass. From there the hoodies were peeled and a good climb soon ensued north on the JMT. Not many people talk about the effort it takes to gain the view from a pass. You can’t get it daydreaming at camp, or really experience the feeling watching a video with some epic sound track in the background, it takes work to get there, and work we did. The work was good, and so were the views!

First thru-hiker we saw all day! Ghost

The climb persisted after a short respite on a leisurely plateau, we climbed up above Charlotte Lake, which was set in a beautiful valley that was clearly shaped by a traveling glacier. On the far end of the valley a U shape was left in the granite face, and it was so cool to see its mark still remained!

U shaped goodness

Climbing still, we entered the final approach plateau to Glenn Pass where all the trees were hooked and bent towards the top of the pass as if to praise it or simply point the way. The way was up! We kept climbing, and after a few false summits we found the jagged lip of the pass and paused for a snack and to soak in the view.

Climbing up towards Glenn Pass
Glacier lake right before the Pass

We started to run into people, Ghost a NoBo PCT hiker stopped for some small talk, 2 JMTers from Sacramento looking like they were having the time of their life, and finally at the bottom of the snow patched pass we met a couple who had just got engaged at Rae Lakes! The gal beamed with delight and we chatted on for a bit about their 60 Lakes loop.

Almost there!
Poking up and over the pass! Fun snow field ahead!

After leaving the couple we bombed down towards Rae Lakes. The upper lake was crystal light blue in the middle, green turquoise towards the edge and finally orange at the rim from the vegetation and shallow bank. It looked almost like a human Iris, glinting in the light, and absolutely breathtaking. We soon found a nice spot for lunch and took a cold plunge in the clear waters. Although the wind still lightly blew, the sun warmed our cold skin and we laid out like lizards hoping for warmth.

Beautiful Rae Lakes below
Happy chilly faces!
Snow traverse!

We packed up and headed around the lake. Grey Jays flashed by in streaks of grey, black, and white. Brook trout swam just feet from the water’s edge and in the distance a quaint cabin stood overlooking all this beauty. I could only imagine what it must be like to live there, even for a brief season.

Water bridge between the lakes!
Dragon Peak
Fresh and revived after a good swim =)

We started descending moss filled valleys crisscrossed with creeks, sprinkled with flowers and lush meandering meadows took over the plateaus. We descended a long staircase of plateaus from which each had its own lake and accompanying meadows, each lake would deepen in green as its size grew until towards the lower steps of the stair case the lakes were forest green.

Fin Dome
Sketchy sketch
Green meadows, headed down valley

On one such stairstep we met a Ranger named Mike and his wife Leanna who were staying in the Ranger Cabin for the summer. It sounded like a dream job, well perhaps not policing the public and making sure they are properly burying their feces, but I guess that’s a small price to pay for living in paradise. We chatted on about fish, fire, browning trees, mountains, all the important things, before finally saying goodbye and heading farther down the valley.

Coming past Arrow and Dollar Lake
Headed down South Fork of Woods Creek
Castle Domes in the distance

We headed down and at the far end of the valley a large granite south facing wall named Castle Domes could be seen that was clearly formed by a glacier. It looked like a big blob of ice had slowly slid down its face making new wrinkles and curves that still held up to the test of time. We soon found the flora starting to change. Around 9050 feet we found our first aspen trees of the trip! Soon after our first purple lupin, followed by Indian paintbrush, sage, and beautiful little green ferns. Cedars started to appear and soon after silver firs.

The flora becomes more lush and green as we head below tree line
Creeks are neat!
Pines are showing off their stuff
Snack ready?!

We took it all in until finally we reached the suspension bridge giving passage to hikers over Wood Creek. We passed over one at a time (as recommended by the signage). The bridge swayed as we walked, not only up and down, but also side to side, finding a wave pattern in harmony with the rhythm of our stride, it was a pretty cool experience to have in the middle of nowhere!

Bridge!

After crossing the bridge we started pushing up the final stretch of trail before camp. It immediately amped up the elevation gain. This southern facing hill was dominated by Jeffrey Pines, as it was in full sun most of the day, and only broke by small streams running down towards the canyon bottom where more lush loving foliage clung. A large creek rushed down slickrock in the belly of the canyon trailside as we hiked north. The sun began threatening to hide behind the mountains just before we finally reached camp! It was a mashed potato kind of night and we were both thankful to find refuge in the tent on a flat pad beneath the shelter of a birch tree. Man what another great big day!

Back up we go!
Woods Creek proper!
Neon moss, yes please!
Clouds get moody right before bed!
  • Hike Stats
      • Miles: 13.7 Total:
        • JMT Miles 4 (36.5 – 40.5) + Kearsarge Pass Miles (9.7)  
      • GPX Track

 

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JMT Day 3: Kearsarge Pass (Mile 36.5 – 40.5)

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Morning View

Zippers, feet, and creeks. I started the day by pondering over zippers and how critial they are to backpacking. Tent doors, backpack pouches, puffy jackets, there are just so many things that would be so much harder without them . . . what’s the next invention to take the zipper’s place. I pondered this as I was packing up my sleeping bag and Izzie was boiling up some coffee for breakfast as a part of our morning ritual. We placed a stroopwaffle under our warm mug to make them like freshly baked cookies.

Cold in the shade but ready to trek!

Soon once all the cooking was done, Izzie went to the creek to tend to her foot, and I packed up our damp tent. Pro tip, if you camp near a creek or river, it’s highly likely you’ll have a ton of condensation on your tent and sleeping bag, so be sure to find some time at lunch to unroll them and dry out before you reach camp for the next night (no one likes to crawl into a wet tent). 

Golden tipped peaks warm our hopes while our toes are still frozen

Back to feet: Izzie suspected she had broken a bone in her foot weeks before on a work trip, and on the descent from Mount Whitney she twisted her ankle agrivating the injury and making both her ankle and foot painfully swollen. She was taking it in her stride, dousing it in the river whenever the opportunity presented itself.

Every turn is a mural, further down the valley we go following the river

After all was said and done, we were all packed up and left out of camp in good spirits. We were in the shade of the morning and only the westerly ridge was lit up by the morning sun, but our cool trail was still in shade. Izzie stopped abruptly in the trail and a deer appeared quickly bounding away. He hopped like a rabbit as if to say “look how easily I am gracefully bounding away, you couldn’t catch me if you tried!” It was our first big game sighting of the trip!

Izzie is still all smiles, despite her foot wanting to give up on her
We found the end of the downhill, next the climb to Frog Lake!
Someone found a friend! Plump and Happy!

The flora began to change as we pressed further north, we found fragrant sage, twisted currant, and our first lonely fir standing proud and plump! We finally reached the first climb up towards Bullfrog Lake and eventually Kearsage Pass. We both put our stride into low gear and steadily ascended the manzanita, snow brush, fir, and fern lined trail. Creeks leaped across the landscape and pines stood proud and well fed by the plentiful water here.

You can just see the excitement in Izzie’s eyes for the climb
Finally getting to see that valley floor from above! Climb climb climb

We finally popped out above the trees as the golden sun shone on the granite faces above. I started to think about how they always depicted Cleopatra, clad in flowing white dresses and weighed down with gold jewelery. I think of the mornings in the Sierra with white granite faces clad in beautiful golden sunlight. It’s nothing less than magical!

Had to stop for a photo op, and some air!
Only 3.5 more to Kearsarge!!!
Bullfrog Lake! Woot, first big climb done! One more to the pass!

We finally reached Bullfrog Lake, a beautiful blue teal with healthy green algae at its rim. We climbed up and past Kearsarge lake and the cold seemed to intensify as we passed treeline and the blustering wind picked up. We plodded slowly up the chunky granite switchbacks until finally we took the pass!

Mountains guard the lush green lake paradise
Onward and upwards!
Kearsarge Pinnacles looking rugged in the backdrop!
Kearsarge Pass, finally in sight!
Made it, woot!!!!!
Izzie with he stoke on 12! All down hill from here for the day!

We popped over the ridge and the wind seemed to subside, we could see hikers speckled across the winding trail below until it disappeared into the pines. We could see a few beautifully clear lakes and hoped to soon be at their shores. Hikers seemed to spring up like weeds, we would pause and chat, seeing day hikers, PCTers, fishermen, mountaineers, weekend loop backpackers, all sorts with their own story to tell. We finally found Maverick Lake and set up out tent for the night.

Big Pothole Lake, cooking crisp and cool! Anyone for a dip?!
Gilbert Lake, just before to drop to Onion Valley Trailhead

With Izzie’s foot being a nuisance, we decided to have her guard our gear while I hitched into town, grabbed our resupply, hitched back to the trailhead, and hiked back up to the lake in time for dinner (no easy task when you’re counting on the humanity of others, but I had faith!). With an almost empty pack I bombed down the trail! I would see a cascading waterfall, hear the buzz of a cicada, and finally a glimpse of the road leading to the Onion Valley Trailhead. I was stoked and pressed on briskly!

Indian paintbrush, snowbrush, and short scrub bushes lined the trail as I descended. I was soon at the parking lot, standing at the end with a big smile and a thumb out, hoping for the best in my stylish hawaiian shorts. It was only 10 minutes or so before I was picked up! A kind fellow who turned out to be an ex sheriff who loved the Sierras and jammed to some light Christian rock in the background of our hitch banter. We soon got to Mount Williamson Hotel and I quickly grabbed our resupply of 7 days of food for two and dumped it into my empty pack . . . . needless to say, I was laden down.

Down down we go into the warm desert below!
Would ya look at that?! Just look at it!

I got a ride from one of the shuttle guys who worked at the hotel and was (to my amazement) back to the trailhead at almost 3:00 pm! As soon as I stepped out of Doug’s shiny new Toyota Tacoma, I met Workout and Goldie, a couple trekking for 3.5 months on the PCT. We chatted on and soon figured out they were both biologists and I insisted they stop off for a quick break from the Kearsarge climb at Maverick Lake to meet Izzie and chat about fish and conservation. They led out like a couple of bats out of hell! That’s what happens when you have your trail legs on you!

New Friends, Goldie and Workout!

Switcher after switcher I just mainly tried to hold onto the send train and hoped I wouldn’t fall behind! We were soon at the lake after some aggressive uphill, hanging out, having a snack, while the chat of America’s fish future was discussed. I sat back quiet while the 3 bantered on. Soon they decided to press on and we made dinner, completed our required stretches, and found ourselves back in the tent, hiding from the cold wind and winding down for the night with some warm curry and a cozy sleeping bag. Another great day on the trail! 

Cheers friends!
  • Hike Stats
      • Miles: 13.7 Total:
        • JMT Miles 4 (36.5 – 40.5), Kearsarge Pass Miles 9.7  
      • GPX Track
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JMT Day 2: Forester Pass (Mile: 16.5-36.6)

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Golden light on the ridge in the distance

We woke to birds chirping in the trees as twilight gleamed its first light. We started up the morning ritual, of making breakfast and packing up. The pink sky watched over our labor and as we finished putting away the last piece of gear, the ridgeline to the west lit up in a golden orange lightshow.

All smiles this morning!

We led out from camp and gleefully headed down valley overlooking gurgling meadow streams where cutthroat trout played. The ridgelines towering above were as varied as the faces of the twisted trees we passed trailside.

Glow in the trees, gotta love watching the sun rise in the morning

The Ranger Station soon came into view on the far side of a beautiful green meadow. A creek bubbled and gurgled in its belly and song birds accompanied its tune. The air was delightfully cool and the sun had just started to reach the valley bottom as we passed by. Soon we turned north where the JMT and PCT meet and we rolled with the rising and falling of its hills as we went.

Trotting along
Beautiful bark

It was interesting to observe the felled trees across the hillside. Thinking about their lifecycles: downed dead trees with branches twisted and broken, thrust from the tree’s body as they fell; to baby trees growing next to their parents, guarded and well fed.

Blanket of snug clouds moving in
Someone found a twin!

The skies had become overcast and grey as the morning pressed on, yet as we we gained a saddle a window of bluebird sky glimmered some hope in the distance. The landscape was a granite boulder field and the trail was a dirty grey, like ground up granite with a flash of dirt, sprinkled with pinecones and bordered by boulders. As we descended towards Wallace Creek we heard a grouse call, a repeated low wooshing like someone swinging an enormous fan through the air. We finally reached the creek, filtered some water and took a moment to try and clean our dirty socks.

Beautiful ridges in the distance
More ridges to come
Hit the plateau, looking for marmots

After the creek crossing, we started a long steady climb, and at the top were rewarded with incredible vistas of a jagged ridgeline in the distance. We vowed to look up its name later, as if to get to know it better. We soon found the valley floor and the beautiful crossing of Wright Creek.

Marmot on the loose!
Fat little buggers
Onward, towards Forester!

We struck out on another long climb, and we watched as trees slowly started to fade out below until finally finding ourselves on Bighorn Plateau. We kept our eyes peeled for bighorn sheep, but we found only expectant marmots waiting for a feed from a careless traveler. Vistas were abound, Mount Whitney to the southeast, Barnard to the East, Mt Williamson and Tyndall to the northeast, the Kern Ridge to the west and Kings Kern Divide to the north. Moments like this are why we started the trail in the first place, absolutely breathtaking!

Rolling down the the valley floor
Time to go back up already?!
Forester inching closer
I spotted the top of the pass!
Gotta love that rich color!

Coming down from our Bighorn Plateau high, we found Tyndall Creek flowing well and a few hikers sitting nearby enjoying a snack. We joined them, chatting about Forester Pass ahead and where they were from. We were interested to hear the Forester pass was clear of snow, although hard to believe, we would soon find out first hand. We pressed on up out of the creek valley and onto an approach plateau just below the pass. Once again trees began to fade out, and ice covered lakes took their place. We climbed slow and steady up to the pass. We must have already begun to adapt to altitude as this ascent was much easier then Whitney the day before! We found no snow on the trail all the way to the saddle, which was very surprising, indicative of the dry winter this past year.

What a happy camper!
Glacial Lakes
Notch marks the spot! Forester Pass just over head

We found some new friends on top of the pass and chatted on about the low snow, the fires to come, and treks present, past, and future. We soon bid farewill and started down the north side of Forester. There were only a few snow patches to be found and the trail was quick and windy.

 

Made it to the top!
And down the other side!

We soon passed that magic 10,000 ft altitude and trees immediately sprung up. The valley we were entering was gorgeous, covered in moss, and cut through with gurgling braided streams. It was stark and beautiful, the tall strong granite mountains above fed the streams, like veins of the valley pumping the lifeblood to all the vegetation and animals here.

Stark beasts watching over the ridgeline
Oh hey, Friends!
All proud and ready for a swim!?
So nice to see for miles down valley

We continued north, dropping lower and lower into the valley ahead until reaching Golden Bear Creek. We stopped to top off our water before camp and rest our feet. By now some ominous clouds had moved in and the temperature started to drop rapidly. I didn’t suspect rain, but was perplexed by the strange white cloud looming over the peaks blocking out the sun’s warmth, and the distant peal of thunder. 

The lifeblood gift from the peaks
Down we go, Mount Standford and Gregory’s Monument in the background
Little lakelettes on the wat down
Beautiful views as clouds start to shroud the peaks
Dropping down into the tree line
Stoked and ready for dinner!
Clouds roll in hard!

We trekked on and found a gorgeous camp perched just above Golden Bear Creek. The jagged ridgeline lined the sky, beautiful pine trees and granite boulders scattered the landscape. We set up our tent, cooked up our dinner, finished the obligatory pre-dinner stretches before slinking off to our cozy tent in refuge from the cold night that was starting to set in on us. What a magical day.

Sketch from camp over Bubb’s creek
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JMT Day 1: Mount Whitney (Mile: 0 – 16.5)

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11:30 pm and the alarm blasted. The trees were all black now with some stars peeping through as I checked the time, nudged Izzie to start getting ready, and fired up the JetBoil for the much needed coffee to shake off the 3 hour nap we took under the forest at Whitney Portal. We were soon sorted, packs on, taking our first steps on the trail guided by our little bubbles of headlamp light. The town of Independence gleamed behind us to the west in the undoubtedly hot valley below, I was glad we were headed up into the alpine.

Backpacks, ready to go for the trip!

Miles went quick to the soundtrack of Lone Pine Creek roaring like a ferocious tiger in the night as we plodded up the canyon. The stars shone high above, blocked out only by the giant stone faces lurking in the dark. The dusty trail slithered through huge foxtail pines, up and around a maze of granite boulders. Sometimes we found millipedes on the trail, or the occasional flash of a mouse all under an amazing blanket of stars.

Sketch of Whitney Portal the night before our start

It was 3pm before we found our first snow patch, and in the dead of night the exhaustion started scratching at the back of our eyes, a stumble here or there shocked us back into alertness for fear of twisting an ankle.

Millipede on the trail

Finally the moon started to rise, and soon behind it the gleam of pink twilight from the rising sun revitalized our steady march. We were soon at the base of the 99 switchbacks and stopped to break out the Jetboil for a round of oatmeal and another instant cup of coffee. We watched the sun rise and stuffed our faces as we looked over the small camp below us, the mirror lake, and the gigantic granite faces coming into light with orange glow.

Sun begins to rise just before the 99 switchbacks
Smiling despite the lack of sleep =)
Izzie topping out Trail Crest
Up up and towards the summit

We were on the move again and as we rose in altitude, so did our heartrates. Even hiking a slow steady pace made you feel your heartbeat in your ears. We slowed, but finally made it to the pass just south of Mount Muir. Peering to the west we were slapped in the face with a sea of granite. It seemed to rise and fall all around us, yet frozen in time. Some great faces looked like a great granite pipe organ, while others looked like a million fingers reaching for heaven.

Checking out the Needles and the summit hut in the distance

We trekked on, stopping at the trail junction where the JMT heads west and the Whitney summit trail continues north to drop a pack and consolidate snacks and water. The trail itself was pretty easy, just some boulders here and there to navigate, but the pressure from the altitude felt immense, always trying to hold back your next step, making every inch an effort. It became a game of “not too much”. Not too much speed, not too much water, not too much heavy breathing, not too much food. Felt like making the wrong move would leave you trailside gasping for air. We pressed on, past the Needles, peering down the gaps between to look down on Owens Valley far below. One step at a time, and finally after what seemed like a long 1.9 miles from the junction, we saw the house at the summit.

One step at a time!

Relieved we had made it, we plopped down, pulled out our sleeping bags for quick warmth, water to rehydrate from the arid alpine, and snacks to fuel our journey down and north, further along the JMT. We had a quick nap, and finally decided our high altitude life had to be put on pause for the next adventure, and we headed down.

Mount Whitney Summit! Highest Point in the Continental USA.

The air was still chilly but the sun warmed you, so we plodded down, back to our packs in hoodies taking in the scenery and admiring the vast granite frozen sea. Little lakelets could be seen from the ridge, and eventually pines down in the lower valleys. We reached our packs, shouldered our belongings and headed north down towards the valley floor.

Let the decent begin!
Mount Muir in the background

An oversight we made was not filtering enough water before our Whitney ascent, so now, as we headed down, we began rationing our last liter of water. I had remembered there were creeks below, but every creek bed we came to was dry . . . we plodded on with parched tongues. Soon Guitar Lake came into view and we counted the seconds before we reached its only running stream. We were delighted to see flow, and quickly broke out our bottles for a fill. After the long dry last 3 miles, not to mention the rationing during the miles before, this was a godsend and our stomachs rejoiced.

Dropping down towards Guitar Lake (in the background)
I can hear the strings strumming!

We meandered over to Guitar Lake, found a nice spot for lunch and had yet another nap, should I be feeling guilty by now? Nah, we had a midnight start after all! We packed up once again and wandered on down the trail until we found a nice group of foxtail pines, singing birds, and a view of the meadow below. Soon with a tent pitched, dinner made, and stretches done, we crawled into our tent for some much needed rest after a very long day.

Guitar Lake lunch spot
On down the valley, towards camp
The pines always impress
The tree colors are stark against the grey sea of granite that surrounds us
  • Hike Stats
Day 1: JMT Map (Click to Enlarge)
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