Planning for weather can be a challenge, especially when you’re looking at a 5 month long journey on the PCT. To simplify this problem, I have broken the trail up into sections with a similar climate. Those sections are: The Desert, Sierra Mountains, Northern Cali/Oregon, and Washington. Each has their own climate and weather challenges.
Note: I hiked North Bound (NoBo) from mid-April (4.14.18) to early-September (9.7.18).
The Desert: Campo (mile 0) – Kennedy Meadows South (mile 709). Most people think it’s dry and hot. Depending on when you are hiking there, this can be true, however it can also be frigidly cold! The biggest concerns in this section are sun protection and finding water! It can get cold at night, especially early in the season (I saw a night with 19 degrees F on Mount Laguna on my 3rd day and it snowed on Mt San Jacinto). I saw 1 day of rain (2 hours total), and it only went below freezing at night twice.
Leave at home: Snow Gear, Rain Pants, BearCan
Bring with you: Rain Jacket (always carry just in case, can double as extra warm layer), Sun Protection – Hat, Sunscreen, Umbrella*, Solar Panel*, Extra Water Reservoirs (enough to carry 6 liters max)
The Sierras: Kennedy Meadows South (mile 702) – South Lake Tahoe (mile 1090). Welcome to the big mountains! You will be traveling at 10,000 ft on average for quite a while. The sun is still intense at high elevations so don’t send that hat home yet. The biggest concern in this section is going over the snow covered passes. Rule of thumb: June 1st is the earliest you should head north of Kennedy Meadows South. I had all my snow gear sent to me at Kennedy Meadows South plus some required food protection. Bear canisters are required between Kennedy Meadows South (mile 702) and Sonora Pass (mile 1017). The mosquitoes are SEVERELY horrible north of Tuolumne Meadows so bring a bug net (I just used my buff) and bug spray (I went without). Warning: DEET will eat your gear if you accidentally spill it on yourself. DEET is straight poison but there are alternatives to it (like Repel); this all a personal call. They finally let up a bit as you near Sonora Pass. I never saw rain, nights were below freezing only 3-4 times.
Leave at home: Extra water reservoirs (only really need 2-4 liter capacity, water is abundant!)
Bring with you: Rain Jacket (always have just in case, can double as extra warm layer), BearCan (required), Ice Axe, Microspikes, Rain Pants (wore these when it was really cold), Wool Beanie, Wool Gloves (it’s cold as crap in the mornings!), Bug Net*, Insect Repellent*
Northern Cali + Oregon: South Lake Tahoe (mile 1090) – Cascade Locks (mile 2147). Congrats! You made it through the Sierras, now it’s time to plunge into the forest in Nor-Cal. Surprisingly the highest temperatures I saw on trail (in the 100s) were in Nor-Cali near Hat Creek Rim. People were so warm they sent their sleeping bags home and got quilts (I troopered through with my 1 bag cause it’s all I’ve got!). I sent home all my snow gear from South Lake Tahoe in my Bearcan (11$ as opposed to 25$ at North Kennedy Meadows). Bear canisters are required in Lassen Volcanic National Park (mile 1343-1363). You can avoid the Lassen requirement by hiking through the area in 1 day (it’s 20 miles and you’ll be cranking by mile 1343). You’ll start to get near forest fire season by this point. I fought the smoke by covering my face with a buff, others opted for the facemask (your choice). Oregon had more relaxed accumulated elevation gain so you’ll be cranking through the whole state of OR in just 2-3 weeks. Never saw rain, nights were only in the 30s once in Oregon at higher elevations.
Leave at home: BearCan, Ice Axe, Microspikes, Rain Pants, Solar Panel (not enough light – tree coverage from forest hiking).
Bring with you: Rain Jacket (always have just in case, can double as extra warm layer), Extra Water Reservoirs (4-5 liter capacity is good as there are some dry sections), Sun Protection – Hat, Sunscreen, Umbrella (for sun)*
Washington: Cascade Locks (mile 2147) – Canadian Border (mile 2652). Bring on the rain! Now that you have crossed the Bridge of the Gods, it’s time to get used to big elevation gain again. Washington was true to its reputation, with rain and forest fires. Send yourself your rain pants again and be prepared to be wet. Hopefully the forest fires are dying down with the onset of rain but you’ll still have some trail closures, it’s just how it goes.
Leave at home: BearCan, Ice Axe, Microspikes, Solar Panel (not enough light – tree coverage form forest hiking),
Bring with you: Rain Jacket, Rain Pants, Reservoirs (2-4 liter capacity is all you’ll need), Umbrella (for rain)*
How I planned my Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) hike in 4 weeks:
I know this may sound crazy, but I didn’t fully make the decision to leave my job and hike the PCT until just 4 weeks before I set foot on trail. I turned in my 2 week resignation at work on March 21st and started walking on April 14th. Some people take years to plan for such a journey.
I had been dreaming of hiking the trail “one day” and enjoyed many weekend backpacking treks, so I wasn’t going in without past experience. I had to plan all the logistics, budget, schedule, food pickups, trail maps, buying new gear, research special area restrictions (bear cans), not to mention entertaining my sister who came into town for a week just before I left, then pack up everything I own and put it into storage, find a way to get to the southern terminus, all the while attempting to keep up some level of fitness. Through that entire whirlwind, here is how I did it:
Step 0: Save every penny you can! There are a ton of costs that you don’t think about until you really start gathering all the little things together. A good rule of thumb is 1000$/month, that is of course, after getting all your gear. The 1000$ covers food, Uber rides, Trail Angel donations, hotel rooms, rides across the lake to VVR, replacing those worn out shoes on trail, and of course that juicy burger and beer in town you have been dreaming about all week. It’s good to acquire your gear over time so your not hit with the full cost at once and you have time to properly test it out. Also remember to factor in insurance (if you go that route), price of flights/rides there and back, and the price of storing your stuff back home.
Step 1: Choose NoBo (North Bound) or SoBo (South Bound) and get a permit – They are two totally different experiences and you have to take that into account when choosing which direction you will go. I chose NoBo for schedule and got my permit early because I knew it was possible that this was my year! Obtain permits here: https://www.pcta.org/discover-the-trail/permits/pct-long-distance-permit/
Click for NoBo, SoBo, and FlipFlop Details
NoBo’ers:
High trail population – Lots of people mean a certain level of social interaction and sharing resources like campsites or hostels. The high population also comes with the high support (trail angels) which means water caches, rides to town, and free lodging with a breakfast from time to time. Your personality type or schedule can make the decision for you!
Weather windows – You start in the desert when it’s nice and cool but you need to move fast enough to where you don’t get burned by extremely high temps as spring turns to summer. People night hike the low elevations, carry lots of water, and hope the rattlers leave them be. The first “gate” (or schedule impact) you get to is the Sierra Mountains at Kennedy Meadows South (rule of thumb says you shouldn’t enter the Sierras until June 1st). You want to wait to enter the high mountains until the high levels of snow melt enough for travelable passes. In high snow years this can be dangerous and really slow you down forcing you to get off the trail and resupply due to a slower than estimated pace (if you don’t think this is a big deal just Google PCT post holing, and imagine doing that all day).
Fire danger – Fires are always a possibility in mid to late summer, and as you head north, northern Cali, Oregon, and Washington are prone to catching blaze. This is simply a roll of the dice and some people flip-flop (definition below) to avoid the fires.
Snow (again) – Your mission at the end is to get to Canada before the snow starts to set in during late September and early October. If you’re too late, you won’t have the right gear to push the last few miles.
SoBo’ers:
South bounders have all the NoBo problems in reverse. You have to wait for the snow to melt in Washington before you can start (usually July 1st), you are hit with forest fires right off the bat, you need to get out of the Sierras before the snow starts packing back in, and get to the desert and hope it’s not too hot (and there is water left). The population is much less and so is the support.
FlipFlopping:
Flipflopping has means skipping a section and hiking the same section in reverse or another section until the conditions become better (too much snow, fires causing intolerable smoke, ect ect). Example: NoBo’ers who got to the Sierras too early came out at Independence CA, caught a ride to Ashland OR, hiked south back to where they exited and caught a second ride back to Ashland to finish the trail NoBo. This allows the snow to melt while you hike another section. I was lucky enough to not have to resort to this technique.
Step 2: Get to know the trail – Maps & Navigation – The PCT is a pretty beaten easily-followed trail, however there are some junctions that aren’t clearly marked and some Maps or GPS navigation on your phone or full on Garmin GPS would be a good idea. Plus water/camping callouts are by mile marker, so its good to have in conjunction with water reports.
Navigation via GPS: SmartPhone Apps – Search for on your preferred App installer
Guthooks – Upside to this app is it has the trail map plus comments from other app users about campsites and water sources all in 1 place. It is a spoon feeding no work type of app. The downside is that it costs $ (about $26 for the full thruhike in 2018). The only thing I have against the app is that it gives you so much that you don’t really have to talk to other hikers and somewhat takes away from the social experience. (This is the most user friendly and easy app to use)
HalfMile – Pretty basic, has great maps, the trail, and water location. Doesn’t have a ton of camp spots listed past the desert, but it works if you want to go free.
HikerBot – Basic tracking, free
Locus Pro – This one takes some work; it is just a map program (almost any map you would want) that you can load GPX files and waypoints into. I have used this for years and didn’t want to buy a whole app specifically for the PCT, so I just grabbed the tracks and waypoints from the HalfMile website listed above and loaded them up. You have to load cache the map of the area prior to going out. Work, but worth it to me.
Step 3: Food and Water – Congrats you’ve made the plunge and got your permit! Now for the essentials: Food & water. This has everything to do with planning and schedule. You have to estimate your pace, imagine where you will be and what you will need. Everyone has their own dietary needs so I’ll focus on the planning aspect of Food & Water.
Click for Food Planning Details
Food: I started researching and pulled a list of all the resupply points close to the trail (hitches to town 40 miles or less). Once I had my list I planned resupplying every 3-5 days (sometimes longer though special areas like the Sierras where getting in and out is harder), using the mileage I assumed I would be hiking to set my schedule and selected resupply points dependent on convenience and price. (I assumed an average of 15 miles per day in the first month, 20 miles per day after that, 18 miles per day through Sierras, 30 miles per day through Northern Cali/Oregon, 25 miles per day in Washington. I factored in rest days into resupply days so this didn’t affect my average much, only affecting the dates of arrival by adding any non-hike (zero) days).
There are 4 main types of food resupply:
1) Mail yourself food – Set up your boxes before you leave (warning, you may become tired of eating the same thing so try and mix it up) and have a friend/fam send them to you; or you can actually mail yourself food from the trail (find a good store in a larger town and resupply yourself for the next month). Grab a USPS Priority Large box and start stuffing your food in! Here are some instructions for how to send yourself packages:
From:
Enter a return (home) address so it can be sent home if you miss the package for some reason.
To:
Your Name (Name on your ID, post office will ask to see it) C/0 General Delivery
Address: List full address, City, State, the zip code
Please hold for PCT hiker: Name
ETA: DD/MM/YY
2) Buy food in town – Show up and pay whatever prices (sometimes expensive) for whatever they have on hand. Sometimes there is slim pickin’s due to a wave of hikers that come just before you.
3) Mix of the two – I set up 20 boxes before I left and hit up Costco for bulk buying. The rest of my food I bought on trail
4) Hire a company to send you food – I’m sure it can be expensive, but its an option if you don’t want to fool with doing it yourself. Here are some options:TrailSupply, ZeroDayResupply, SonoraPassResupply
Notes on selecting resupply locations:
Convenience: Closer to the trail means a shorter hitch with a stranger as most of your resupplies will be off the trail. Let’s face it; if you are going to these towns (to resupply at a store or pick up your package) you will have to rely on the hospitality and humanity of other people in their strange metal sleighs that move faster than 3mph.
Price and Selection: The smaller the town the smaller the selection and the higher the prices. In the towns where the prices for a packet of tuna is 3$ you may want to send yourself food in a Priority Mail box to avoid these high prices.
Here is my Excel File: I put this together which has all the convenient resupply points and I highlighted the resupply points I selected for my 2018 hike. This is JUST A PLAN/GUIDE! Be flexible, most convenient locations on the left side, my plan is on the right side of the Excel sheet.
Water: Water is pretty simple overall, there are a few ways to get info (see below). My rule of thumb for carrying water is 1 liter of water for every 5 miles hiked. I know here in America we don’t usually go with liters, however most hiking gear for hydration is labeled in liters and the Smartwater bottles I used were 1 liter bottles.
The Water Report can be downloaded onto your smart phone or printed out and carried with you. This tells you locations of all water sources and is updated by hikers via txt or email.
The phone app Guthooks also has live water information. Comments in Guthooks will let you know if there is water at the next source.
Water purification: See Gear Selection Section.
Step 3: Gear Selection – Well now that you’ve decided to leave society for a few months, figured out when you are starting, and where you’re going to stop for food, you need some gear to carry all that crap! Gear is life to people; they BELIEVE in their gear and spend a lot of money on it. That doesn’t mean you can’t go out there with a 70lb external frame pack, it just means you gotta work harder for it! I’ll stick to the basics of what you will need and give you examples of what you can choose, you can do your own selection from there (there is no 1 solution to life!).
Click for Gear Selection Details
Comfort Vs Weight – Every ounce counts! Ultralighters typically go as minimal as possible, whereas some people want to be comfy cozy at the toll of heavier gear. The fact is, the lighter you are; the faster you are. Is this important to you? Everyone has their sweet spot; and it’s a personal call. Do you want your heavy DSLR camera? Want your super comfy blowup sleeping pad? How about an extra pair of socks or underwear when your others are busy drying out after laundry? These are all questions you’ll have to answer yourself, however here are the basics of what you’ll need:
SideNote: Here are my gear lists (includes weight and links) for the whole trail:
Here my gear rational and what I saw others doing on the trail:
Backpack: Your pack needs to fit all your gear, about 5 days of food, and carry anywhere from 2-6 liters of water (6 liters is extreme and you’ll only ever do that a handful of times in the desert). I prefer a pack with hip-belt pockets and side pockets to carry smart water bottles. I chose the EXOS Osprey 58 Liter pack, I already owned it before the trail, and why buy a new pack when I already have a perfectly good one! Here are some packs I saw on trail.
Osprey EXOS 58 Liter BackPack (2014 version [2017 version cut their hipbelt pockets]): Price , Website
Sleeping Bag / Liner / Pillow: The coldest temps you will see on the trail are in the 20s (headed NoBo from mid-April to mid-Sept). I personally love a mummy bag, you can save some weight and get a quilt which cuts out as much weight as possible from some areas which one could argue are “extra”. Side note: quilters sometimes complain of drafts from the bottom where there is a hole from the quilt’s drawstring which when pulled creates a “toebox”. Some people sleep cold and need 10 degree bags with liners in them (even in 30 deg weather); this is all about knowing yourself and your gear. Other considerations include ethically harvested feathers for the down bags, and using synthetic bags if you are worried about being wet. Like I stated, this is all personal preference. Here are some examples of what I saw on trail:
Sleeping Bags/Quilts
Western Mountaineering – 20 Deg Bag: Price , Website
Pillows – It’s comfy, let’s face it, this is a luxury (good sleep was a big priority for me), you could easily use your puffy or town shirt as a pillow.
Shelter/Tent: There are plenty of options out there, most all are expensive! Tarps are really nice on weight because they use your trekking poles to hold them up (downside is they must be staked out properly and a high wind at night could be troublesome). Free standing tents are great but weigh a bit more due to the poles but the upside is they don’t require staking out to stand erect. Bivy or just cowboy camping is another option. Remember it’s all about comfort vs weight. I saw some people carrying 2 man tents because they enjoyed the space, others cowboy camped every night. Here are the tents I saw out there most:
Cooking System: Cold soak or hot meals?! Comfort question once again. I saw many people choking down cold ramen and instant mashed potatoes so they could save themselves a pound of weight going stove less (every ounce counts remember). I’ll let you make your own decisions here, but this is what I saw on trail the most:
McFlurry spoon from mcdonald’s – as a friend puts it, “Fuck paying 20$ for a spoon!”
Clothing: This could be like opening a can of worms, there’s such a HUGE amount of products out there for you to choose from. Here are the basics, carry ONLY what you need. If something wears out or doesn’t seem to be working for you just grab another from a hikerbox or send yourself one. Rule of thumb:
Shirts (x2) – 1 hiking shirt, 1 town shirt. I personally love smartwool to hike in; a lightweight shirt can be good in both heat and cold.
Synthetic can be nice, but eventually the smell just doesn’t seem to get out of the shirt even after a wash.
Wool kicks butt, it can wear down quickly (especially in the shoulders) – Price
Cotton – Leave it at home
Mi- Layer – People LOVE their puffys which is no surprise in chilly weather. Here is what I saw out there:
Pair Socks (x3) – I started with 2, moved to 3 after accidentally losing a pair and getting stuck with just 1 pair for 3 days . . . got athlete’s foot . . .let’s not talk about it. Here is what I saw most on trail:
Shoes – People are crazy for shoes, pick your own religion here. Most people on trail rock trailrunners because they are light (1lb on your feet is equivalent to 5lbs on your back) and they have good breathability which means they dry quickly if they get wet (you will be dousing your shoes in creek crossings especially in the Sierras). Side note, you should plan to go through 5 pairs of trail runners (mine were lasting about 550 miles before the cushion broke down!) This is what I saw most people wearing:
Gators – Keeps the rocks out of your shoes, every time you stop to empty your shoes is time wasted. Light weight option I saw most on trail – Dirty Girl Gators – Website
Hat – Keep that head covered from the sun!
Buff/Handkerchief – Keep that sun off your neck! Wool , Synth
Rain Pants – I only carried these in Sierras and Washington. What I saw on trail:
Shorts (or pants) – I rocked a pair of swimming shorts the whole trail. Dried fast, lightweight, cheap (thanks Goodwill!)
Water Filtration – Sometimes size matters . . . and the longevity! There were mainly 2 filters out there, and then some people just straight up didn’t filter at all! You want good flow rate, but at the same time longevity. Side Note: I ditched my pack bladder and just used Smart Water bottles which I slid into the side pockets of my backpack for easy access. Switching to this system will help you know exactly how much water you have at one time, plus if a bottle gets too beat up you can always swap it out once you get to town.
Sawyer Squeeze – Save yourself the trouble and get the full size version (it lasted me all 2650 miles with filtering every liter I drank). The flow will slow down, but usually not until 400 miles in. The Mini Sawyer quickly loses its flow capability even with back flushing properly (200ish miles). The Sawyer also screws right onto SmartWater bottles which is a plus as the bags that come stock with Sawyer WILL break! Be aware of this, after so many squeezes they will burst near the neck (no one wants to lose a few liters in the desert). I just used a SmartWater bottle as my “squeeze” dirty bag. Price , Website
Katadyn BeFree – Has higher flow than the Sawyer out of the gate, but it starts to slow down after 200 miles. It will still filter – Price , Website
Electronics – It’s going to be hard to let go of electronics at home, but the ones you take on trail need juice. Navigation these days is primarily done with Smartphones. Any camera you would use or other nifty gadgets need to stay charged between towns (don’t forget to charge it up when you are in town).
SmartPhone – Primary use is navigation, then pictures, then internet and social media. Use your juice wisely. I used the Samsung Galaxy 8S+ (water resistant) with a holster that was on my pack’s shoulder strap for quick access. Phone, Holster
Camera – Tons out there, if you want those epic pictures that your smartphone can’t grab and have convinced yourself the weight is worth it, these are some of the cameras I saw on trail:
Bluetooth Keyboard – I blogged every night and this keyboard was the key to making it happen. Without it I would have been reduced to T-Rex thumbing the day’s journey. Price
Special Equipment – A few areas have special requirements, namely, the Sierras and Lassen National Park. Bear canisters are required between Kennedy Meadows South (mile 702) and Sonora Pass (mile 1017) and then again in Lassen Volcanic National Park (mile 1343-1363). You can avoid Lassen requirement by hiking through the area in 1 day (it’s 20 miles and you’ll be cranking by mile 1343). Side Note: I carried my bearcan all the way to South Lake Tahoe because it cost me 11$ to ship home filled with clothes, whereas shipping from Kennedy Meadows North was 25$ full, 20$ empty.
IceAxe – In high snow years you’ll need this to self arrest over the Sierra Mountain Passes (I’ll let YouTube take over on the ‘how to use’). This is what I saw most of:
MicroSpikes – Some years (like 2018) the snow will be melted enough where this is all you need, other years you may need full on crampons. Price
Umbrella – These guys were pretty popular on trail. People would use them for sun protection as well as rain in Washington (NoBo frame of time). Price
First Aid – Last but not least, safety (N.B. I am not a doctor or a professional healthcare provider; consider your own safety needs in first aid)! You would be surprised about how little you actually need to carry. The mentality is to carry enough to take care of minor scrapes, scratches, blisters, sun block, and if it is something more serious you will be coming off trail for treatment anyway.
GPS Unit – if something serious were to happen (rattle snake bite, broken leg, heart attack, anaphylactic shock, ect ect) and you don’t have cell signal, a GPS unit can hail for rescue. Plenty of options out there:
Luko tape – Doubles as bandage gauze cover and for hot spots on your feet to prevent blisters – Price
Thread/Floss and needle – This can be used to pop blisters, dig out cactus needles/thorns, or used to sew up a shoe or pack that is starting to come apart – Price
Salt – sounds strange, but if you start to cramp up and you haven’t had enough salt, throw some in your mouth.
Sunblock – Take care of that skin kids!
Banana Boat Sunsceen Stick – The stick is great because you don’t have to spread sunscreen all over your body w your dirty hands (cause god knows where those have been!) – Price
Hand Sanitizer – No sinks out there, clean your hands (also never handshake, always fistbump! Fewer germs spread that way)! Price
Ibuprofin – Carry a small bottle, pretty handy for headaches and annoying body aches.
Toiletries – Lets face it everybody goes. Grab your essentials: Toilet Paper, Hand Sanitizer, Tooth Paste, Tooth Brush (yeah thats right cut that bad boy in half so save a few ounces!), and of course WetWipes. The PCTA requests that you pack ALL your TP out, so remember to have a small baggy handy for this. Sanitize them hands afterwards! Its a dirty job, but someones gotta do it!
Step 4: Getting to the trailhead and Trail Angels – Now that you’ve done all the hard work to make sure you have what you need to survive for 4-5 months, you need to get to the trail and start walking!
Click for Trail Angels and Trailhead Logistics
Trail Angels – These are people who have either hiked the PCT in some way shape or form or really love the trail and want to support the hikers attempting the cross country trek. They will give you refuge from the storm in their homes, rides to/from trailheads, feed you, give you trailmagic, receive packages for you at their home, and all around turn your day. There is a list of trail angels online: http://trailangellist.org/pacific-crest-trail/
Getting to/from the Southern Terminus trailhead:
Scout and Frodo – These 2 trail angels will pick you up from the airport, house you for a day or so, and then get you to the trailhead on your start date (contact them in advance). They are pretty cool. You can do like I did and force a friend to drive you there and hike the first section with you and cook you a big dinner and breakfast on the grill before kicking you out onto the trail like the hiker trash you are!
1) Hike into Canada – Once at Manning Park, take a bus/hitchhike/carpool to get back to the states. You MUST have a PCT Canada entry permit (some people have issues obtaining one if they have have ever had a DUI) to walk into Canada via PCT.
2) Hike back to Hearts Pass – Once back at the pass, throw your thumb out and hitch into Mazama. From Mazama you should be able to hitch over the 20 to Seattle.
Large group accommodating Trail Angel stops: Hiker Heaven, Casa De Luna, Mike’s Place (it’s an experience . . . ), Hiker Town (also an interesting experience . . .), there are a ton of trail angels in town that are on the list that will host you.
Trail Angels are going out of their way because they love the trail and they love you stinky hikers, love them back a little, drop some cash on them if they will let you.
Step 5: Don’t stress and enjoy! Looking back I realized that “the trail provides!” All this “planning” only gets you so far. Remember that life happens while you’re busy making plans. Your schedule will change, you’ll be faster or slower than you originally thought. You’ll meet new friends on the trail, have a shoe blow out on you, loose a pair of socks, have to wait on a post office to open, or wait for a package lost in the mail, or get sidetracked by some sick trailmagic in the middle of nowhere, or perhaps you’ll find a really hospitable town and decide to take an extra zero to really take it in. No matter what, woohsaahhhh it’s all going to work out as it should! Happy trails!
If you guys are interested in prepping for other thru-hikes check out MyOpenCountry’s Thru-Hiking 101 Guide which takes a holistic approach to the big US thru-hikes. Good luck out there!
On the last day of the PCT we arrived to find a large wooden monument that marked the northern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail. There, I said a few words to my friends and fellow trekkers. I was asked to post this for them. It’s one of those “you had to be there” kind of things.
“I want you all to take a journey with me. I want you to use your mind’s eye, think as vividly as you can back to just a few months ago. Come back with me to the Mexican Border and the southern termanis monument.
Think about those brand new kicks, the fresh socks, spick and span pack, and shiney new tent strapped to your pack. Think about that ride to the terminus, the anticipation winding up in your stomach. Think about that very first step into the arid desert.
Think about that first big hill, up and over, dumping down into Lake Morena and that first nights camp. Staring up through your tent into the night sky, marking your first night on trail.
Think about pushing through the desert to those “active explosives in area” signs and feeling a little nervous.
Climbing up to Mount Laguna and the 60 mph winds, 20 degree night, and frozen water pipes in the morning. First full on views of the desert below.
Julian and Mama’s Pie, Scissors Crossing and the huge cache at 3rd gate (Thanks trail angels!).
Stopping off at Mike’s Place for a burrito with a side of machetes and whiskey. Secretly hoping to yourself that your not going to get stabbed that night.
Breakfast at Paradise Bakery. Idyllwild and at its quaintness. Finally dropping weight, slowly climbing up to San Jacinto Peak. Cold as hell, huge smile on, looking north to hot desert and the Gorgonio Mountains.
Dropping down, sleeping under the I10 at Cabazon Pass. Natty light in hand, thinking this is what it means to be homeless.
Pushing on to Big Bear Lake, your first hotel on trail.
Hiking to Hiker Heaven and soon after Agua Dulce. Getting your first real trail angel experience complete with laundry and a ride anywhere you needed.
The 24 challenge to Casa de luna (shh lets keep that on the low)!
The push through the Gorgonios, trying not to get bfed at hiker town, walking the huge LA aqua duct. Thinking about all that water below your feet and not a drop in sight.
Hiking beneath the Air Turbines, finding Tehachapi and some killer BBQ at Red House BBQ.
Fast forward now: Getting your feet under you, finally exiting the desert at Kennedy Meadows south, entering the famous Sierras.
Seeing the snow covered granite wide spread wilderness before you in all its glory. Your first 14er, waking up at 1am, that beautiful sunrise (maybe it was the best sunrise you ever saw).
Forester Pass, Kearsarge Pass, dropping into Bishop, that awesome guys who gave you a 40 mile hitch, and of course Hostel California.
All the passes, Muir was by far the best, the snow the sunrises, the ice cold lakes you jumped in. Man the Sierras really rocked my world.
Northern cali and all its green tunnel goodness, Mt. Shasta, Castle Rocks, the smoke, Seiad Valley and the State of Jefferson. Finally touching that fucking Oregon border! Finally out of California, it only took 3 months!
Ashland, the smoke, my first zero in Oregon, pushing 30s getting full on. Crushing bigger miles. Crater Lake in all its beauty (if you could see it).
Busting through to the Three Sisters, Hiking up to Mt Hood and Timberline Lodge, the smoke in the air but you can still see the beauty.
Finally pushing to PCT days and Cascade Locks, brews with friends you hadn’t seen in months!
Stepping into Washington across that crazy fucking bridge trying not to get hit by passing cars.
Finding the elevation again was back in full force, Trout Lake, Mt Adams, the Goat Rock Wilderness.
Coming down Snowquolumne, Dru Bru (I know you got a beer . . or two), Skykomish, the rain and the 100 mile race, getting dry, seeing the end insight going for it.
Motoring on to Holden and their awesome hospitality, the whole town coming to wave you off in the bus to the Ferry like it was a scene out of some Hallmark movie. Stehekin and their closed off city, the delicious bakery, and of course . . . your last resupply.
Pushing on and up, up and down, down and up again, finally reaching Hearts Pass and the final fire detour.
Hiking down to the creek, packing in your celebratory beer, champagne, smoke, whatever floats your boat, all the way, step by step, to the border.
I want to be the first to say to all of you, congratulations for your achievement. You just walked across America from Mexico to Canada. 2650 miles end to end. You earned every inch, you earned every mile. You and the friends standing next to you now.
Go ahead and open your eyes, and Welcome to Canada!!!”
At 4:30am I woke to see lights outside my tent moving around in the darkness. I wasn’t supposed to be up yet, but my eyes were open and the excitement got the better of me. I was up and out packing up my gear for the day. Pickle was long gone, Pooper packing up, and Sissyphus snoozing away as usual. I staked my tent out for rain, threw on my pack with just food, water, and extra clothes for the day and headed out into the dark.
It wasn’t long before I was at the junction of Rock Creek and started the climb out of the valley back to the true PCT. The trail was chunky and for a good half mile was riddled with downed trees. Climbing over the trees takes time, and slows the pace, but with a light pack I was moving quickly. Up and on I pushed until finally seeing the golden ridgeline ahead. On the ridge I saw a small line cutting across it’s face, which must be the PCT. I was getting closer!
I thought for sure that I would have seen Pooper by now, but so such luck. The sun rose revealing a beautiful morning sky as I climbed the hardy gain. After reaching the PCT and pausing for a quick snack I pressed on. The end was creeping closer and somewhere in the back of my mind I knew it.
Behind me I saw another hiker approaching. It was Mr. Giggles, and we greeted with huge smiles at the top of the climb at Castle Pass. Below us we could see Harper lake, all the way down to its bottom. We chatted on and soon to my surprise Sissyphus came rounding the corner. Pooper had got turned around in the dark and took a wrong trail. He wasn’t too far behind us so we pressed on.
Down we went inching closer to the finish line. We chatted on as usual and paused only for a moment at a small fall just a quarter mile before the Canadian boarder to chill the bottles of Champagne we baught in Stehekan a few days before. It was surreal. We were right there, so close. We pressed the final distance as if it were any other stretch of trail. Finally the monument came into view. It was weird, like seeing death for the first time in real life, just stairing back at you expressionless, without simpothy or encouragement. We walked up and simultaneously layed our hands on the wooden statue. We did it . . .
Pickle was there to greet us, and soon the rest of the crew started rolling in. There were a good 15 of us hanging out taking in the finish in our own way. Snapping photos, wooping out calls of completion, excitement, and also relief. I got all of us together for a picture, and afterwards read a little speech that I had prepared for the finish. It was a really cool moment, for all of us.
After the celebration subsided and making the realization we still had a good 17 miles to hike back to camp, we got moving. The gain began and we took it on quietly. We walked, strange in our own way, until we saw Johnny Staches group coming in. We all greated and congratulated each other on making it there. We trekked on, back past the lake, climbing up and on the gain, as the sky grew darker with rain clouds. The rain began to sprikle on Sissyphus, Pooper, and my heads, but the views were still incredible. Light spilled down beneath the clouds in areas in the distance revealing the ridgelines and valleys of this beautiful place.
Finally we reached the detour as the sun began to set. We trekked the 7 miles downhill in dark. To our surprise the trees we were forced to jump in the morning were mostly all cut and removed from the trail. A maintainence crew had come in the day and eleaviated our struggle. We were all exhausted, stubbing toes, wet shoes, and a long day finally ended when we reached our tents at 10pm. The slumber we had that night was solid as a rock.
The next day we awoke early and retraced our steps back to Hearts Pass. We sat there, tired and in disbelief that we had truely finished and there wouldnt be 30 miles of trail waiting for us the next morning. With our thumbs out we got lucky and hitched into Winthrop with a bear hunter. Walking into School House Brewery my buddy Dan and my girlfriend Izzie were just sitting there waiting for us. Big stinky hugs and high 5’s we celebrated that we had made it. Off the trail and back to civilization. It was a strange feeling, and my mind struggled to process it, but the fact is: We were done, we had walked across America. Mexico to Canada, 2650 miles, in 147 days. Wild!
I woke to the sound of the Methow River flowing just feet away from my tent. It was time to pack up and get rolling. Not many people were moving, just the way I like it! I hiked up and out of the forest to find a sick ridgeline. Smoke was in the air and the sun shown orane through the veil, but you could still see its beauty. Soon Pooper and Pickle caught up and we all trekked the ridge together chatting on about how weird it was that we are getting so close to the end.
We hadn’t seen Sissyphus that morning and kept our eyes peeled as we walked the beautiful ridge. We saw a few day hikers and knew we were getting closer to Hearts Pass. I kept looking for goats as we skampered on with no luck. Soon, just before the pass, we found trail magic! A big group of dirty hikers was together hanging out as we pulled in. Bologna sandwiches, orange soda, mellon, and a piece of pumpkin pie were munched on untill we were full, fat, and happy. We just sat there, relaxing as Sissyphus rolled up. After snacking on, we slowly slogged out back onto the trail.
There was a small 2 mile climb up to Slate Pass where we dumped off into the Holman Fire bypass trail. Down we went, switchback after switchback. We found a creek at the bottom of the valley and Pickle pulled out his fly fishing rod. Pooper was like a kid on Christmas with excitement as Pickle pulled in the first trout. Giggling on as the fish flipped in his hand Pooper jumped with a yelp as the fish escaped his grasp. It is the little things.
We pressed on knowing we still had miles to cover before camp. We started telling jokes, stories, and riddles as the miles melted away into the heart of the valley. At the first bridge we saw Mr Giggles and his crew all set up for camp. It sun was setting and the 4 of us pressed on through the dimming light. We reached our camp at the 2nd bridge just 20 minutes later and quickly made the best of our accomidations.
Pooper and Sissyphus headed to the river for water and I soon joined. Upon arrival Pooper was nursing a toe he stubbed pretty bad in the dark. It wasn’t until he lifted the nail on his big toe and blood came spirting out that I knew the depth of his injury. I told him to tape it up and don’t touch it until we were off the trail. Just 2 more days, gotta hold on man!
Tired and cranky, we all finally made some food and appeased our insatiable appetites. Soon we were in bed being serenaded by the nearby creek. Tomorrow we would touch the Northern Terminus of the PCT. What a strange thought!
Hiker Profile:
Pooper – 30, from Michigan, originally from India. He has been on a path if change since he moved to america for his Masters Degree in Computer Science. He was 220 lbs (100kg) and in hitting the 100 kg mark he decided it was time to make a change. He started running as a way to loose weight, and he became addicted to the sport. Since starting his new passion he has run over 80 marathons, lost 80 pounds, and in November at the completion of the NY Marathon, he will be the first Indian to complete a marathon in all 50 states. He completed 30 marathons in 1 year, lost 70lbs, and ran his first marathon just 2 years after his first run ever. Its been a journey coming from a 38 inch waist to a 30 inch waist, but now he is a 10 star member of the Marathon maniacs (a group of runners that have completed 3 marathons within 2 weeks).
I woke at the trailcamp, with Sissyphus’ tent butted up next to mine and Pooper sleeping just feet away cowboy style. He looked like a bight blue caterpillar laying there. I got ready, and was soon standing, coffee in hand, ready to let out.
I was starting to get excited about reaching the terminus. We were close enough that I started to plan our miles as I hiked taking in the scenes. The trail climbed on, and soon after crossing the river, it climbed some more. It was nice being first out, I got the trail to myself, plus a little peace and quiet. I pressed on.
Soon enough Pickle caught up to me and we chatted on about post trail businesses and past adventures. The miles melted away and soon we stopped at Hidden campground for a snack and to give Pickle a chance to fish. I made my usual burrito while he set up his fly fishing rod. With a few flicks from his wrist and letting the fly float on the water’s top just by boulders, he had a cutthroat trout on the line. Pretty happy he pulled him in, pulled out the fly, checked him out and released him back into the stream. He repeated this like it was as easy as breathing another 2 times.
Finally I pressed on meeting Sissyphus on the trail. He pulled off for water and I pressed on, soon finding Pooper and Pickles’ company once again. I told the story to Pickle about how I got into climbing and my obsession to summit Zoroaster Temple in the Grand Canyon. He chatted on about starting up a podcast and the long list of interesting people he already had in mind to interview. We trekked on chatting away as a trio and soon came to Highway 20 and Rainy Pass.
Not 5 minutes had gone by before 3, count them, 3 trail angels all showed up with food, snacks, gatoraid, and of course beer for any dirty hiker trash that wanted it! We snacked on, kicked back, and really enjoyed a long long early lunch. With 15 miles left to go I decided to push on.
I trekked on up the sun-drenched trail, but the temps were good, and the gain was better. I switchbacked back and forth working my way up to Cutthroat Pass. Soon Pooper caught up and we soon turned a corner to meet Sabrina and Kathryn. They were out for the weekend, and Sabrina’s husband Fred and their half chihuahua half wienerdog. Sabrina had taken some time off work, she had a hard year and told us about her son who had passed away in a tragic kayaking accident. Apparently he was paddling at a very high level and just had an unlucky day. The four of us sat there on the ledge overlooking the beautiful, yet smokey sky as if we had known each other for far longer than 5 minutes. They were really lovely and after chatting for some time we knew we had to hike on to get to camp in the light.
I gave Sabrina a big hug, sometimes people need it, whether they know it or not. Pooper and I trekked on, dropping down, skirting the mountainside towards the Methow Pass. The views were pretty stellar. Stopping for water at a small creek where an older couple were camped, we once again chatted on. It seemed to be a popular day to be out!
We gained the pass, waved to Fireball, Painter and crew, and finally dropped into the valley headed north towards camp. Down it plunged into the forest which just made it seem darker. After a few miles we arrived at the Methow River and it seemed like tents sprouted from the ground. Almost every tent site was spoken for. After some careful searching we found a spot, made dinner on the bridge and started to eat as Pickle and Sissyphus finally came strolling in, in the dark. They were taking their sweet time. Now that the whole gang was together we ate, bullshitted and headed to bed for a good night’s rest!
I woke to a cold wet bag. I’m not sure if it was cool humid wind from the lake or my warm breath condensing inside of my bag, but none the less, it was town day! I got out of my tent and Pooper was already packed up. Pooper doesn’t mess around on town day!
We both took off, heading down the descent. It was immediately evident that the smoke was back. The valley below was filled and the sun rose red behind the curtain of grey. Pooper and I chatted on as we hauled down the hill. We could see the falls in the distance.
Sissyphus finally caught up and we trekked together seeing the first evidence of the town of Holden. Remnants of very old house foundations lined an old street as we walked into town. Finally we found old log cabins in the town center. We found our way to the hotel where they were still serving the tail end of breakfast!
We chowed down with a group of other dirty hikers. About half way through dinner a hiker came walking up to my seat, I looked up in surprise to find Pickle! I hadn’t seen him since Bishop Pass in the Sierras. I gave the guy a big hug and we caught up between the mouthfuls of food.
After finishing up and paying the bill I decided to explore the town. There was an old bowling alley, pool hall, barber shop, pottery studio, all kinds of cool little hidden gems in the mountains of a secluded town. Eventually we all piled onto a big bus headed for the ferry across Chelan Lake. The ENTIRE town came out to wave us off. It was like a scene out of some Hallmark movie. The bus rumbled down the dirt road packed with hikers and we all chatted on as we neared the boat dock.
Some swam, some bundled up, but soon the ferry arrived and we all piled on. Beer in hand from the boat bar we all sat down and chatted about realizing we were about to go to our last town and resupply. After a quick trip we arrived in Stehekin and headed straight for a nice big lunch. Hikers need fuel, it’s the first thing on our minds when in town!
Food, resupply from the eye-patched postmaster, hanging by the lake and waiting for the shuttle as our sleeping bags and tents dried out. Finally we piled into the shuttle headed back towards the PCT. Piling out of the bus, Sissyphus dropped his phone on the bus seat. To give him crap I picked it up and just sat back and watched him sweat a little. After a while I started taking selfies with other hikers until he realized it was in my hands. After a good laugh we all headed up trail to walk the 5 miles to camp.
Back into the canopy of the forest we plodded on pausing only for water. The chat continued on as our large group meandered to camp. Finally arriving we quickly set up and took over the first available area that was large enough to house 15 of us. It was such a good day. Only a few left!
My brain was in review of this whole thru hiking thing this morning. In doing so I thought back to a conversation I had with my brother on trail. I remeber him saying at the end of our conversation “I gotta go, some of us ave to work”. I rememeber thinking, then replying “Well at least after your 8 hour shift is done, you go home”. Its a funny point, people’s perspective from the outside is so skewed from what its really like to be on trail.
It seems that people read blogs, see Instagram pictures, posed shots and the glamor of the trail. Imagine us all taking long naps, long breaks, feet up for hours, perhaps you walk a bit if we feel like it. When the reality is anyhing but. There are blisters, shin splints, collapsed arches, muscle tears, long 13-16 hours of walking every day, no weekends, pushing physical limits, mental limits, and sometimes people break. Some people quite, go home. Ive seen it happen first hand, for so many reasons. I guess the main point I’m making is that I don’t want people dissalusioned by pretty pictures and think its all fun and games. It is a dream come true. But for most things that are worth it, hey take hard work to achieve.
I woke to a decently non-fridgid morning for once below the mighty trees. Coffee in hand, I headed out and knew the climbs for today were going to be tough. Right off the bat, after Milk Creek the trail began switchbacking back and forth climbing the mountainside through lush green forests. I paused for a moment meeting a FlipFlopper from Belgium. We chatted for a moment and I pressed on. I topped out the climb to be given some sick views of the mountains to the east.
In the distance I saw a hiker climbing the switchbacks of the draw, and soon realized it was Tornado! I handn’t seen him since A Thousand Island Lake way back in the Sierras. We chatted on and caught up taking in the scenery. Soon I left him and continued to water where I plopped down for a good break. Pooper soon joined me and few minutes ater we saw Sissyphus bopping down the trail.
We all headed out and bombed down the other side of the ridge. Down, down, down we went all the way to 2300 ft next to Suiattle River. The forest here was old growth and had some good humus going at its feet, not to mention everything was covered in moss and little underbrush. It was pretty cool and seemed as though anywhere was a good place to lay down for a rest. We breaked for lunch and goofed around as Pooper found a good table for his feast.
Letting our it was every man for himself. We agreed to camp at Layman Lake and took off! The first 5 miles seemed like a roller coaster parrallelling the river. Up and down it went until finally it started to climb the moutainside with long steady switchbacks. One after another the climbs came in waves, endless like the ocean. The forest was gorgeous, and the climbing seemed especially hardy.
I took a short break half way up the climb shoving snacks in my mouth, ready for the top. Finally I broke out of the forest and saw some incredible peaks and ridges in the distance. I had to snap some pictures before taking off again. This time the climb was quick and switchbacks were shorter, climbing faster. Finally I topped the saddle overloking Laymen Lake and rejoiced that camp was near as the sun started going to bed. I hustled the mile down to the lake as the forest and the setting sun shaded any light from my path. Finally I arrived and chatted on wih Sissyphus and Pooper as I set up camp! “At least it wasn’t 9pm tonight” I announced! What a great day!
So the rose, thorn, and bud excersice is something StuckOnTheGround started with the group at the end of the day. Rose being your highlight or favorite part, thorn being your biggest challenge, and bud being what you are looking forward to tomorrow. This may sound all “kum-bay-ya” but it is a really nice way to reflect on the day and find something to be thankful for. Recognize challenge and gear your mind towards the future.
My Rose for today was the stellar views from the tops of the two ridges we climbed and the sunrise that morning. My thorn was the fact that I ripped a left shoe, broke my left earbud, and lost my smartwool beanie on the trail somewhere. These 3 events put me in a crap mood, but somehow pulled out of it. My bud is seeing the views from tomrrows big climb and starting the fire reroute which will bring me and the boys into Stehekin!
I stirred in my tent. The cold air nipped at me, and finally I forced myself to move. A cloud had passed over us in the night dropping off some nice dew all over our tents and sleeping bags. Mmmm waking up damp, not my favorite! Despite this I got moving, rolling my wet gear away and was rewarded with an incredible sunrise.
Drifts of fog rolled in front of the ridgeline views and I was enjoying them until I was engulfed in my own fog or low cloud. Pooper had caught up with me and we trekked together taking in the views. The ridge dropped off into a valley and climbed out the otherside to a clear, sunny, meadow on the side of a mountain. We took a nice break and I threw all my gear out to dry. Sissyphus soon joined us to take in the stunning views!
We had somehow taken almost an hour break and in realizing it decided to get our butts in gear. It was business time! Sissyphus took off, and Pooper and I followed. We climbed a nice ridge seeing weekend backpacker after backpacker to our surprise. Afterwards dumped down the other side back into the forest. Lush green forest, moss covering the forest floor, waterfalls bellowing hundreds of gallons of crystal clear water pumped life into the underbrush. On this decent my toe got caught by a root and it ripped my shoe, dang! Field repair time!
Just before reaching our meetup spot the trail turned swampy and the bushes reached in. One grabbed my headphones and ripped my left earbud from the wire. I was pretty pissed, I used these to jam to music, and always put them in at night to pass out within minutes of laying down. Soon I saw Sissyphus, I plopped down all grumpy and continued to eat and work on my shoe.
The guys pressed on as I finished up. I knew I needed some time to work off some steam. I absolutely hate having to spend money on materialistic things that i’ve already paid for once. Anyway the climb up and out of the valley did me good. Head down and heart pumping, I climbed on. Soon I stripped off my hat and hung it on my pack. By the time I reached Glacier Creek and looked down to realize my hat was gone, it was already too late. Turn crabby into pissed the fuck off! It just wasn’t my day. Good thing I had more climbing to do!
I pressed on after going back and searching hight and low. I reminded myself I was out here in a place where not many people ever get to go, much less for 5 months and I should be thankful. That combined with the climb finally put my mood in check. I topped out and was rewarded with 360 incredible views!
Knowing I had little time I bombed down the other side. Switchback after switchback the light began to fade from the sky. As I decended further into the valley below the light just became dimmer until finally I had to turn on my headlamp to walk. Finally I reached camp where Sissyphus and Pooper were setting up. Whew made it! We chatted on and caught up during the nightly chores. I was thankful for my two friends on the trail. Despite the thorns, the rose of the day was gorgeous and the promise of the bud to come will only keep me in suspense.
I woke just a few miles out from Stevens Pass. I could hear Superstar talking in her sleep. She didn’t stir as I put my food bag into my pack, shouldered it, and headed out. It seemed to be a dim morning and I sipped on my coffee and shook the chill from my fingers as I walked. Up and over a ridge I went just to be back into the fog again.
On the back side of ridge the temperature dropped dramatically and I plundge down into the other side. Snaking through the greenery I finally fond a nice creek flowing well and stop for my first break of the day. Soon Sissyphus and Pooper come rolling up. “Hey hey fellas!” I said as I threw my pack back on. We hike on as a trio chatting on about all kinds of silly things that come up when 3 guys are together on the trail.
We kept a good pace rolling, up and down over passes. The views in the distance were starting to clear and we could see far off peaks, some with snow on them. We paused for a lunch break and I cooked up ramen as Pooper and Sissyphus snacked on. Pooper almost fell alseep and we started threatening to call him Napper instead.
From here we treked the next 1.5 miles to Pear Lake, grabbed some water, and quickly pressed on. It was a no nonsense day because we wanted to get some good distance covered. The next few miles were a everyman for himself style, Sissyphus rocketed ahead down some steep slopes and Pooper and I would leap frog here and there. Granite rocks, pines, and blue cold mountains in the distance was our new home.
I soon came around a corner just south of Skykomish Peak and saw 2 guys in camflage with a spotting scope. I asked what they were going for and the said bear! “Whew!” I said asking them if they had seen any goats in the meantime and if they had seen any bears out. No goats, no bears, no such luck! I bid them fairwell and started skirting the ridgeline. The mountains that painted the horizon were incredible!
I soon passed MaryAnn Lake and Pooper paused filtering some water. Pushing the last stretch to campo I came across at least four marmots in bushes right next to the trail. Their little brown butts and legs scampered from under their salt and pepper backs. They seemed unusually close and soon I realized they were munching on huckleberries trailside. I quickly walked past and climbed the final switchbacks to camp where Sissyphus waited.
He was all set up at camp, and soon was I. Pooper came in just a few minutes later following suite. Food, stretches, and teeth brushing preceeded the utter dive into the tent escaping the cold night air. The wind seemed to bite especially hard tonight! 50s? 40s? No one had a thermometer, so we just had to guess from the comfort of our sleeping bags. Another great day on trail!
I woke to a nice chilly morning at packed away my things. Everyone but Sissyphus stirred in their tents as I left. The sky was cloudy grey and threatening rain, but we were only 12 miles from town.
I pressed on hiking quickly trying to keep warm when the rain, slowly but shurely started to sprinkle down on our heads. It dampened my mood and the rain mixed with the low 50s temps made it hard to get moptivated. I soon pulled over to call BooBoo Johnson and found some nice huckelberries to munch on simultaneously . . . bonus points?
Afterwards StuckOnTheGround caught up and we trekked on through the rain and the wet underbrush up towards the pass and ski lifts for Stevens Pass. We chatted on about trying to keep the moral up while in less than perfect conditions. She guides for kayaking company in Alaska and their weather there isn’t exactly perfect. As we approached the pass, day hikers and backpackers came headed in southbound. We reached the pass and paused for a cell signal check.
I had signal! And a text from Izzie saying that the northen termanis was open with a special bypass! I was so excited and told the crew, instant moral bost!
Once we reached the pass StickyFingers was chilling with his dad making breakfast sandwiches and handing out cold beverages. That on top of the great news of the open terminis really turned the day around! StuckOnTheGround, Pooper, Sissyphus, Happyu and myself hitched into Skykomish. After a run to the post office, we all reconvined for lunch.
We said goodbye to Happy as he headed back to Seattle to move. He would be back on trail the next day. Pooper headed back to the pass to grab a package before the lodge closed. StuckOnTheGround opted to stay there trying to stretch the trail out as long as possible. Sissyphus and I finally hitched back to the pass after stuffing ourselves to the gills with delicious food and icecreame.
We finally let out, back onto the trail. It was just a half hour before the sunset so we only got about a mile or more. Headlamp on and tired, we found flat spots, pitched tents, and passed out. What great news about the end, it was so close we could all taste it!
I was the first up and out of our trailside camp. We had packed in wherever we could, finding semi-flat spaces, just good enough to fall asleep on. Happy was up moving, StuckOnTheGround and Pooper shuffled in their tents, and not a stir came from Sissyphus. I hiked out having goodbye and walked into the canopied green snaking trail.
It was quiet and scerene, it was so peaceful and I moved quickly up and through its winding curls. Underbrush, ferns, green sprawled every inch of ground, and the trees rose up like giants covered in moss. Water ran across the trail from side creeks who were fed from little mini waterfalls. All the creeks of course ran down to feed the mighty Waptus Lake. Finally after quite a few miles I passed my first hiker, the only thing he said to me was “It might rain, it might not”, in reply I said “Well, at least it isn’t right now”, he chuckled and I hiked on.
Soon gaining the next small saddle I saw Gormet and caught up to him to chat. We trekked together for a bit approaching Deep Lake. The foreground was a golden meadow, the lake beyond, and looming above was Cathedral Rock. It was loomed in clouds and commanded a powerful presence. I pressed on starting up the switchbacks. About half way up I pulled over and decided to have second breakfast. As I stood to leave Happy came bumping along around the corner.
We hiked together gaining the next saddle where we paused for a break. Soon Pooper, StuckOnTheGround, and Finally Sissyphus came rolling in where we all took a break. The next few miles we stuck together down the dropoffs and up the gains joking on and singing silly songs. It was a really nice day, and as soon as we gained a ridge we were slapped in the face with incredible expansive views of the surrounding mountains!
We made our way up to Deceptive Lake where StuckOnTheGround went for swim and the rest of us made lunch. It was nice, but chilly spot. CatctAss came rolling in to join us. We all let out, hooving up the next large hill. The views were stellar. Glaciers clung to rocky mountains and high lakes set snuggled at their feet. We finally took Pipers pass and evaluated our camp for the night. We had another 5 miles or so before we would have a fitting spot large enough for all of us to cram.
It was every man for themselves! Everyone going at their own pace, we boombed down from the pass, past Glacier Lake, and took the tough gain up to thew ridge overlooking Trap Lake. It was a short down and a quick mountain skirt before we were all nestled down near the spring. Setting up camp we were all bundled as well as could be. Rainjackets went on over puffys and rain pants came out for optimum warmth as the temps started to plummit. After stretching, food, and nightly chores, we all leaped into our tents hunkering down for the already cold night. It was a great day and the views were incredible!
We woke, all tucked together on one rock like a slumberparty. I was firstawake and started packing up. The sun was just starting to make its magic happen! The pinks and pastels started taking over the heavens. There, in the distance, on the horizon was Mt. Rainier, towering above, golden from the sunrise and standing tall and powerful. We all marveled and snapped pictures left and right.
I finsihed packing up, all the while stairing off in the distance. Soon I was standing and ready to go. Happy and I hiked out and both Pooper and StuckOnTheGround were still getting their mornings going. We chatted on as we gained the ridge. The mountains surrounding us lit up in the morning light and we reveled in their beauty. I pressed on, skirting the climbing trail as Happy pealed off for a side adventure.
When you see something so awesome and fascinating, its hard to hike fast. It seemed to be the theme of the morning. Happy caught up just as I gained a saddle being blasted with more incredible views to the east. Soon following Happy, Pooper caught up as well and we all chatted on as we decended down into the forested switchbacks. Soon we came to Lemah Creek Falls where we paused for a break. StuckOnTheGround caught up and it wasn’t long before someone started pulling off clothes and got in the rushing waterfalls. The group clambered in, on by one, into the freezing water, fully sumberging his or her head beneith the refreshing flow.
Clean spirited, we packed up and headed on. Meandering through the flats and finally up the large climb of the day. Switchback after switchback came and and passed on beneath our feet. It wasn’t until half way up that someone meantioned lunch and we quickly clogged up a switchback with our bodies and packs, resting for a snackbreak. Feeling the need to press on, Pooper and I got up and took on the rest of the hill. It topped out and we could see for miles across the mountain scattered rideline. We both paused at Cooper River to replenish our water and take a final break before the 7 mile decent to hopefully, a nice tent site.
We all grouped back together and decended all the elevation we had just gained into the next valley that housed Waptus Lake. We sung Disney songs and acted a fool, but it was all good fun and made the hiking that much more enjoyable. We finally found ourselves at Spade Creek after snaking through the lush green valley. The river was loud beneith the bridge and tumbled down with some good force. Not finding much of good campsite, as the only one was taken by a single orange tent that could have easily fit 4 (the guy declined packing any more people in). We made the best of what we could find near the bridge and stuck our tents in any relatively flat spot. Flys were on for everyone as we heard rain was oncomming. As the light faded we told jokes, riddles, shared our favorite parts of the day and munched down on rehydrated food. It was a good day, hopefully the next would prove just as awesome!
Youtube Film Series Reccomendation: Every frame a painting
I woke in the hotel room and slowly got going. Packing up and putting all my things and ready to go when Sissyphus texts me saying hes coming into town and wants to borrow our shower. Soon after freshening up, we all (Superstar, Sissyphus and myself) went to breakfast and chowed down. Post breakfast Superstar headed out to the trail, on a mission to finish at Rainy Pass.
It wasn’t long before Sissyphus talked me into getting a beer for lunch and hanging out waiting for Happy to get into town. So what usually happens when you get the crew back together: the votex effect. Happy came in and so did StuckOnTheGround! Reunited, it was soon evident that we were taking a full zero in town; so we got hotel room and made the best of the hottub!
Day 137: 8.28.18
Lets try this again! We got ready and all packed up and made our way to breakfast. It was a slow morning. Soon Sissyphus broke off to do some blogging and th rest of the gang hung out at the Aardvark before we finally mustered up the courage to get out on the tail at 1pm! Pooper (Washington section hiker) joined our fun little group.
Up and into the forsted trail we went, I felt immediately happy amongst the trees! The gain was strong and steady and the views became better and better as we climbed. Day hikers were out in droves and it wasn’t until the Catwalk that they started to dimminish. The bare ridges in the distance were incredible and we snapped pictures as our pace went from brisk to a crawl.
We pressed on the next few miles being goofy, singing 90s pop songs, taking pictures and chatting away. After skirting Joe Lake we finally found our camp on a granite perch overlooking the valley to the southwest. It was gogeous, and if you looked really hard you could see Rainier. Soon Pooper came into camp and the 4 of us made dinner and cowboy camped on the epic bluff. What a great day!
Rain pattered on the fly of my tent. This time I was ready and my tent was properly set up. I stirred and turned over not ready to relenquish my sleeping bag to the cold wet morning. Finally, I got my butt moving. There was just a short 20 miles to Snoquolumne, so I figured I could sleep in a bit.
I put away my gear from the inside of my tent, got coffee going, then finally exited and broke down my tent quickly. I packed away the wet gear and got moving trying to keep my body temp up. The fog was still on and the rain misted on me as I hiked up the hill.
I came into a clearing from the thick tress to hear was sounded like a river. As I neared the open field, I realized that the buzz from the high power lines was so loud it actually like a small river rushing in the rain. Back into the forest I was swallowed. Soon I heard voices behind me and saw 2 trail runners coming on.
I though the race was far over, and in pausing as they passed they told me they were the cleanup crew for all the pink tape from the race the day before. We started chatting, and they slowed their run to a quick hike and we trekked together. We chatted about their off grid home, the prospect of retiring, and the viewpoint of Work to Live vs. Live to Work. They were super positive, and I could tell that they were good natured, not only by their banter but also their great attitudes trekking even through cold wet long miles.
Kyle and Rachel were based in Washington and trekked all over, even finding ther way to Arizona in the winter months to visit family and do some ultrarunning. We chatted on until coming to Mirror Lake where I pulled over for some early lunch. Eleven miles had already melted away in our bantering on about dream lives.
I pressed on from the lake through the mist alone. It was a scerene landscape, no sounds except the slight sound of mist hitting trees and pools of water. Up and down hills through the pine forest I weved taking in what fog limited views I could and enjoying the glistening of the trees with their low hanging branches.
Just a few miles from Snoquolumne I met up with SuperStar who said she was getting a hotel and asked if I wanted to split. It was so wet that I couldnt say no and hopped on the prospect of a warm shower and getting dry clothes for the next day. Just after leaving her Gormet came rolling up and we trekked the last few miles into town together.
It seemed to rain harder as we neared the town. We hiked under the ski lifts and switchbacked down the hill until finally rolling into town. First stop was The Aardvark which was a small little shop with INCREDIBLE food! Get the Hurry Curry if you go, mindowlingly good. The mix of sweet cornbread, herbal greens, hot curry chicken spread on rice was magical. I soon headed to the hotel and got my chores going. A wet, cold, but good day!
I woke behind the Urich cabin cold and stairing at the ceiling of my tent. Its mid August and it has to be like 38 degrees out here. I woundered if this is just a short window or if the rest of Washington would remain cold and foggy.
I started out on the trail and thew field in front of the cabin was covered in fog. I braced myself for a chilly day, headed out on the trail with coffee in hand. As I climbed through the forest I happened upon a huckelberry heaven. I stopped every 20 feet or so to stuff one after th other of the delicious little treats into my mouth. So delicious and testy! This was the real reason people dont get to Canada, too distracted by the berries.
I entered a burn area soon after. From a far it looked like the final scene of the movie 300 with bodies everywhere after a huge battle, except with trees. It was also riddlede with more huckelberries than I could eat. I soon bumped into MadScience and we started chatting on. We quickly figured out we both lived in Phoenix at some point and that he recently completed the AZT. We chatted on and soon found an Aid station out in the wilderness. Aparrently there was a 100 mile rce going on today and runners would be passing through this section of the PCT.
I soon I pulled over for some lunch and waved goodbye to MadScience. Not but 10 minutes later, with a mouth full of Ramen I waved to the first runners passing my lunch spot. After lunch I pressed on and it became a regular thing to pull over for oncoming runners. I heard cheering in the distance and as I approached there was a group of people cheerring on the runners at a dirt road. It would be cool if they had thi for PCTers I thought as I passed by.
After the day pressed on, I got used to looking over my shoulder like a tick to see if a runner was approaching. The weather was being its BiPolar self. Warm, cold, sprinckling rain, fridged, warm, cold, it was all ver the place. Seemed to be good weather for running but I couldnt decide to keep my jacket on or not as I snaked throuogh the pines.
The gain in this seciton was vicious, and much like a roller coaster. Up, down, up, up, up, down, just seemed to be playing with my emotions and i could see how it would be a tough section for any runner.
Finally after the fog seeme to settle and I couldnt tell what time of day it was anymore, I decided to find a nice little camp in the bottom of a valley. Chilly, but protected I set up my tent. To my surprise MadScience and Gormet were there, setting up and chilling for the night. I finsihed off my stretches and my dinner and dove headfirst into my tent in search for some warmth and rest!
Gear Reccomendation: Vorahgear
Hiker Profile:
Mad science – Earlly 30s from eastern Washington. Completed the AZT, out here to take on the PCT. Started climbing just before the trail and became obsessed, he has plans to take on climbing projects as soon as he is done. He is a long distance runner, started doing some Ultrarunning with Aerovipa group in Phoenix and thru hiking just became an extension on that.
It was 2:30 am and I woke, shivering, to the sounds of raindrops hitting my tent. Not only were they hitting my tent but I seemed to be pushed to the right side teetering on the edge of a drop next to my tent. I had to quickly select a tent spot and a small pad a little off trail was all I could find in short notice. I had luckily put my fly on thinking it would be cold that night. However unlucky for me, I didnt steak it out properly or attach the fly to the cross poles of my tent.
Water was rushing down on the outside of the fly which way laying directly against the tent body, thus getting anything wet touching the tent body. My sleeping bag, sleeping pad, shirt, hoody, and of course me was already drenched. I had to do the painstaking task of getting out in the rain and steaking out the tent, then crawling back in trying not to freeze in the 38 degree weather.
I forced myself to get out, get my chore done, and leap back into my tent. Little did I notice that my bare feet were covered in dirt and mud when I leaped back into the tent for safety. Everything was wet, and now dirty to boot. I put my damp wool shirt on tucked my hands into my arm pits, and somehow like a miricle fell asleep at 4am, cold wet, and pretty tired.
I woke at 6 and knew I had to get going. I laid there not wanting to move, but finally the rain had stopped and it was time. I put on every piece of clothing I had in my bag. I packed up everything and dumped the 2 inches of standing water out of my tent before packing it away wet. I had to get moving and was soon barrelling down the trail sipping on hot coffee.
I crossed the bridge spanning Chinook Pass and headed up the trail. Soon I ran into Painter who I hadent seen since the first week on the trail. We caught up, chatting about the crazy foggy weather, the fire closures, and trail life since we had last seen each other. Mid chat I saw I hiker headed southbound that I recognized as a north bounder. We stopped and chatted and he told us hee was quitting. Its strange to see someone pull the plug. There was nothing wrong with him physically, it was just the mental game. Wish just 300 miles to go, man.
After hiking up a nice hill though the fog and cold wind, I stopped off for a break and Painter rambled on. I pulled out all the gear I had and put it on a ridge for the wind to try and dry. Spirt of sun would peep though the clouds, but I didnt have much faith it would come out. After a bit I packed up and headed back out skirting the beautiful ridgeline.
Every once in a while the sun would come out and you would get a glimpse of the mountains in the distance. After trekking through the woods for a few miles I stopped off when the sun finally decided to come out long enough to be effective. Instant yardsale. Everything I had was out and draped on trees trying to dry. I took the time to cook up some ramen and chat with passing hikers.
I finally got all my gear dry, packed up and pressed the last few miles through a long nd interesting burn area towards camp. I soon met CharlieHorse who had a gift for gab and a distain for people who didnt have it together out here. He was a funny guy and we chatted on as we neared Mike Ulichs cabin. Once we arrived there was a fire inside and a few thru hikers hanging out. I chose to camp out back, setting up, filtering water and taking advantage of thew 7pm camp arrival. I was tired and ready for bed, after stuffing my face, I crawed into my tent, glad it wasn’t wet from the night before!
I woke in the parkinglot behind the Cracker Barrel gas station tired and not wanting to move. The night before had been windy, chilly, and I was reluctant to get going. Finally I pulled myself from my bag and got the morning ritual going. The upside here was, there was a hot shower in a small building behind the store waiting for me.
The hot water steamed the cool air and I plugged my 4 quarters into the slot machine. It was 5 minutes in heaven, followed by 5 cold wet minutes of misery trying to dry off without a towel and throw my clothes back on. Finally I had my pack on and was shivering as I walked towards the trail.
I got moving with frozen fingers and was soon underway crusing along the forested trail. Meadows, trailside ponds, huckelberries, and a chill wind to keep me on my toes. I heard a voice behind me saying “coming up behind you”. I turned to see another hiker and pulled over letting him pass. I hiked on behind him and we started chatting. Soon I foud out that we were both from Va and went to Virginia Tech for Engineering. Its funny how these things work. The new few miles melted away as we chatted on passing beautiful lakes and forested meadows.
Finally we came to a creek, chatted on over lunch, then went on our seperate ways. It was a pretty good day so far, and it was only going to get better. Pressing on from lunch a large hill started putting the gain on. I trudged on under the weight of my bag until finally bettering the hill and finding clear skys for the first time in 3 days of smoke I marveled at the vista and soon pressed on. As soon as I turned the corner I was slapped in the face with my first clear view of Mt Rainier, what a beast!
It stood tall and proud and I gazed on, woundering what a summit attempt would feel like. Shaking out of it I continued on the trail. I paused to pick huckelberries, taking pictures of misted moutains, and gathering water in cool streams. After passing Dewey Lake a final uphill battle ensued. I pressed on and up feeling the temperature fall and a stange fog settle down from above. Once I reached the saddle and found a camp I decided it was going to be a cold night and put my fly on for extra warmth. The thick clouds rolled acrossed the mountains from my cliff perch lookout. It was amazing and I listened to the sounds of the night as they crept in. Soon I was cazy in my sleeping bag, all tucked away for the cold night to come.
Hiker Profile:
2Percent – 34 From SouthWest Virginia. Went to Virginia Tech, class of ’06, he graduated with a degree in Materials Engineering and has since worked for companies developing masting properties. From Arkansas to Cincinnati, he was worked for mostly Aerospace material companies. Currently on a sebatical from his company, hes taking on the PCT and will be returning to Virginia, wokring remotely to start a non-profit benefitting kids in STEM programs in the area. He completed the AT in 2012 and says he doesnt think he will go for the Tripple Crown (CDT thru hike would complete his trifecta). His blog – thethruhike.com
An ant is stranded on a rock in the middle of a creek. Two rocks to be accurate, touching each other, and covered in moss. His little island had but one route of escape. There was a long stick that created a bridge out and away to safety if only the ant were aware of it. I watched him clean off his antenni as if he was just washed on this island as I happened upon him. The question is: What woud you do? What would most people do? Pick up the ant and move him? Move the stick in front of him? Or let life happen as it may . . . I chose the latter as I don’t think the ant would have learned anything by my interference. Eventually he found the stick, all on his own, and that is where I left him, and headed on down the trail.
I woke on the side of a cliff in the Goat Rocks Wilderness. It was such a cool place. I packed up and trekked on admiring the surrounding ridges and peaks. It seemed as though some of the smoke was clearing and I could make out a little more of the distant features. The golden light of morning started peeping over the ridge and I climbed the trail.
At one point I turned to look back to where I had come and realized that looming behind me was Mt. Saint Hellens. Its head popped out above the brown smoke and stood tall with its flat volcano top. I soon took the ridge and found patched of snow and a few intact glaciers. It was a gorgeous sight and I found a nice perch to have a break and take in the sights.
A group of middle aged guys came upon me and started asking all sorts of questions about the PCT and my journey. They were a fun group and it was nice to see them all enjoying nature together. I just kept taking it in, and the ridgewalk from there was phenomenal. Thousand foot drops on either side and views for miles. There was still smoke masking most of it, but even with that you couldnt deny the beauty of this place.
Soon I came to Elk Pass where an alternate route diverging PCTers away from the Miriam fire was in place. Man let me tell you, this trail was a roller coaster! I started out bombing down the backside of a ridge before finding Packwood Saddle where the trail went right back up climbing towards Chimney rock. The views were great but once I was in a rythm it the would dump right back off again.
I found myself at the beautiful green and blue Lost Lake. I thought to myself about taking a dip for a moment, then reconsidered seeing how long it took me to go just a few short miles. From there the trail gained on, up and up I went. When I found the edge of a ridge, I would just find another climb waiting for me. After 3 false summits I finally found the top of the ridge. I could see the fire from a far and the smothering smoke that covered everything.
I bombed off the ridgetop past Lost Hat Lake were I gatered water and finally the final roller coaster ride that brought me to Cowlitz River. There was no good crossing and I ended up getting out on a tree that had been felled by some storm. The other end of it wasnt touching the ground and as I worked my way out towards the end, it bounced and swayed over the rushing river below. It looked like a scene out of a cartoon. Finally about 3/4 across the river the tree bounced me so much that I lost balance and had to jump in. Luckily I landed well and water went up to my calves. Could have been much worse.
I climbed the trail and foud myself on Highway 12. I had 2.5 mile roadwalk to Cracker Barrel store and I hurried along hoping I would get there before they closed. Cars and 18wheelers alike went roaring by. The shoulder wasnt huge but with some luck and a good pace I finally pulled into the store parking lot. Tired and ready for rest. With 8 minutes to spare I grabbed my box and a beer and found my way out back where the rest of the thru hiker trash was all camped out for the evening. Right where I belong!
I woke at the base of Mt. Adams to a brisk chilly wind, but surprisingly no sore throat! I packed up and went through the usual routine. Just as I was headed out of camp StuckOnTheGround (SOTG) emmerged from her layer. “See you up trail”, we both said simultaneously and laughed at our sillyness.
I let out of camp, but what hadn’t let up was the smoke. It still persisted, looming in the air despite the chilly wind attempting to wisk it away. I hiked through some cool lava fields as the wind continued to cut through the pines.
I finally came to the dropoff where the trail departed the base of Adams and headed north. I stopped here, for a last look at the big beast and a creekside picknick. I’d have to say, it was pretty wounderful! I got moving once again and dive bombed down the hill.
The trekking was pretty chill this morning, and randomly I would bump into hikers headed up towards Adams. I bid them good luck! After the decent stopped, the trail did what it normally did, took off up a hill! Back into the woods I plunged, however this time I found a calm scerenity amongs the mountain lakes. The only other northbound hiker I saw that dy was StarWars, and he seemed perpectly fine meandering along. I was on a mision to meet up with Larry Bitzko, an old friend from work.
Larry and his pals were supposed to be camped at mile 2272 and I was in striking distance if I kept my pace up. I stopped just beofre the last hill for a brek and chatted with trailcrew as they had just finished their day and were headed to camp. Only 8 miles and 1500 feet to go until 2272. I took off up the trail.
I hadnt listened to anything on my phone all day and I wasn’t about to start now. The trail gained quickly, but it was enjoyable and I watched the valley frop below me. The red sun was in the sky covered in smoke and the pines jetted up from the depths below the smoke. Finally I rounded the corner and saw Goat Rocks, it was stellar! The colorful formations, jagged teeth sticking up towards the sky, so many cool features and ridges to play on.
I pressed on and gained Cispus Pass. I figured they couldnt be far and quickly hiked to the area Larry would be. I drew nearer and saw 2 tents on the hill, that must be them! I headed on and saw a young guy walking towards waer, which this confused me. I asked if he had a Larry in his group, and the guy told me it was just him, his daad, and brother. Looks like I was either early or missed them!
I hiked on, grabbed some water from one a stellar waterfall and hiked the next mile to my cliffside camp. I perched right out on the rocks, like any good goat would. Despite the smoke, it was gorgeous here, and definitly on the list of places to come back to and explore!
As I feared, the sore throat from the day before persisted. To my delight no one came hiking down the side trail I had plopped my tent in the middle of. I figured caming there was better than creating a new sleeping pad which would get high use once others discovered it.
I hiked on through the trees, it seemed as though the sun was taking its sweet time debating on coming our and shinning. By 9am I had decided it must be overcast as there was a faint glow behind the moss colored pines. As I crossed a dirt road I paused to take a picture, then walked on. Out of nowhere a bee, or wasp, flew up, landed on my calve and without warning stung me! There was no call for this, I wasn’t near a nest or was pestering him, it just decided I was getting it. I let out a yelp and an obsenity from surprise.
I walked it off limping further into the forest. I gained up a large ridge, reaching the top I hoped for views, but unfortunatly I only got more forest, which was nice too. I finally decended the ridge, found road 23 and started walking south towards Trout Lake with my thumb out. It wasn’t long until Brian, a wine distributor from Cali out for some weekend fishing, came by and scooped me up.
Post office, food resupply, lunch at the Cafe and finally a nice little nap in the Cafe’s back lawn is how I spent the next few hours. I headed back out to the road all packed up where I saw StuckOnTheGround walking towards the road as well. I hadnt seen her since Tuolumne and we caught up. Almost as soon as we met, a felly named John C., with no shirt on, offered to give us a ride knowing we were hikers. Without hesitation we jumped in.
John C. was an interesting man, 1 or 2 teeth missing, but a good heart and a cheep Rainier in his hand, he went on about how he wanted to hike the trail and how nature really has the power to heal you. We both agreed, and after a good 13 mile drive where sometimes you have glimpses of the car coming off the road and tumbling into a thousand pices drifting through your head, we were both glad to see the PCT trailhead. The suspension wasn’t great and going from 3mpg to 60mpg is always interesting when you aren’t the one driving!
We made it back to trail safely, and as soon as we had hiked 1/4 mile we found Shades and his trail magic. Hot dogs with chili, beer, snacks, its like hitting the jackpot back to back! We plopped down and chatted as he handed us food. Not but 5 minutes had passed and both Happy and Sissyphus unexpectedly came walking up. It was a really nice reunion!
Happy and Sissy were headed into town and StuckOnTheGround and I headed up trail. We winded through the forest, through burn areas, and lush green pine patches. Mt. Adams was covered in smoke, but finally after a few miles the smoke began to clear out and we could see some vague lines of its face. We hiked to Riley Creek and stopped for the night. A little stretching and dinner was a great way to end a beautiful day on the trail!
Hiker Profile:
StuckOnTheGround – 24, from Wisconsin. After school she moved to Alaska for seasonal work as a deck hand, and kayaking guide. She studied film and on a trip to Tanzania, she filmed her adventure kayaking to the island and doing some fun seaside multipitch trad climbing. Shes hopi g to get the film into the Realrock series, and until then just wants to keep on persuing her transient lifestyle!
I woke to a strange feeling in my throat. It was dry, rough, and when I breathed the chilled air I could feel how raw it was. Everything pointed to the early signs of a cold and sore throat. I instantly thought of ChilliBin who had been coughing up her lungs like they were on fire for the last week. My only saving grace in seeing her suffer, was knowing she was still hiking, and keeping up with no problems.
I packed up and let out of camp, doddling along, stuffing my gullet with food. One thing I did know is that if I fed myself and stayed hydrated that perhaps I could hold the symptoms off long enough to get some meds at Trout Lake, just a day away. I trekked though the forested trail and marveled at the trees as I passed under them trying to forget my throat.
I soon came to a trail camp and John had a plethera of food all layed out for thru hikers. It was a feast: muffins, fruit, fruit snacks, chocolate, beer, wine, quite a spread! I fed on as we chatted on about his side business and using Raspberry computers for smart homes. After a bit I knew time was running from me and I said thanks and headed on my way. Back into the forest I plunged.
I kept looking up and admiring the trees as I had been listening to a book called The Hidden Lives of Trees. The things that I learned were pretty cool. All about how trees adapt, move water, use networks of fungi to communicate, and live on a totally different timescale than us. Also all the similar things to us, including social behavior, taking care of young sapolings, healing wounds, guarding off attacks from predators (such as beetles and some fungi), and working together in large networks to create a strong community. I would highly reccomend it!
Soon I came to Bear Lake and plopped down for a lunch break. I was feeling pretty tired from the day, and I still wasnt sure what was going on with my throat. So I decided to nap for 20 minutes. It hardly seemed enough, but I was slightly better than before and pressed up the trail.
I came across quite a few day hikers and section hikers all interested in my story and I chatted on for a few minutes giving my feet a rest. I knew the day was growing shorter and I finally pressed the last few miles to water. I was hoping there would be a camp near Steamboat Lake, but I was short on luck. I ended up camping right in the middle of a sidetrail, betting that no one would hike up the trail before I was packed up and gone. I needed the rest, and was glad to get it! Tomorrow, Trout Lake!
I woke next to the creek and the sound began to increase. It was like it was muted and as I woke someone slowly started cranking up the volume. The creek was clear, and it looked like a really nice spot to chill for a few hours mid day, maybe go for a dip. I had to press on so I packed up and headed up the lush green trial.
It was a beautiful morning, chilly but not bad. This was benificial as it seemed like the trail wanted to take vengence for the relaxed terrain of Oregon. I climbed up what seemed like eternity before finally gaining a never ending ridge just to dump right back down the other side. The downhills seemed like gasps or recovery from the ups, so it only ever conciously seemed like I was going up all damn day.
Every once in a while I could get a glimpse of the views in the distance through clearings in trees. I didnt see anyone until 10am when I saw 2 NoBo hikers cranking on through as I was resting at the end of one of these hill for my 2nd breakfast. I waved hello and they trekked on.
Most people were at PCT Days festival in Cascade Locks, and I was stoked to be away from the crowds, which meant less competition for campsites. I topped another such ridge for a break and Stallion came prancing by, we was on a roll and didn’t want to stop so I waved him on.
I came to a clearing and for the first time I could see Mt. Adams, standing tall and strong, just like Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood. I knew it would only be a few more days before I would be skirting the base of the giant. I decended down finally after a long stuggling hill and slowly glided into camp. Whew what a day! The old easy days of cranking 30 miles like it was nothing are dead and gone! Hello Washington!
I woke early as usual and started packing up my things. I would be the only one hiking out that day as most hikers were in Cascade Locks for the weekends PCT Trail Days event. Happy and ChilliBin planned on hiking out that night, but I was curious if the vaccume would suck them in and hold them hostage.
After a much needed shower we all headed over to a diner in town for a good hardy breakfast. Sissyphus, Happy, ChilliBin, Collin, Calob and Shepherd all joined me for the feast. I ordered county fried steak with sausage gravy, hashbrowns, a pancake, and 2 eggs. I wasn’t dissapointed. We were there for at least an hour in the cold diner attempting to finish the meal, only a few of us suceeded. I practically stumbled out of the doors strapping my pack on. I said goodbye to everyone and pressed on towards the bridge the spanned the Columbia River and seperated Oregon and Washington.
It was time to press the final leg of the journey, and I felt a little strange as I walked across the metal gratings high above the freezing quick water below. There was no pedestrian sidewalk, so hikers had to walk on the road, and hope that cars didn’t take them out! The wind was high and air was crisp cold coming off the river as I walked across. At one point my hat flew off in a hurry, and I practically had to chase it into traffic to save it.
I reached the safe shores of Washington State in safety. Soon I was back on the trail padding on. Blackberries were in season and I kept pausing to snack on them. At this rate ill never make it to Canada, I thought to myself! I pressed on and soon after some exposed areas was thrown back into the forest once again.
The frorest just continued to grow thicker the further I hiked. Furns covered the ground, moss covered the trees, and the canopy was so thick not much light shone through. I pressed on further climbing up a huge hill as I did. Cascade Locks was around 200 ft elevation, the lowest point on the trail. I would be climbing up to 300, dropping back down and bobbling all around through the state of Washington. The terrain would only grow harder and try to make the miles harder.
The surroundings started to seem almost jarassic. The thickness of the green everywhere was beautiful, and seemed like such a contract to the burn area we decended the day before. I kept trekking until finding Rock Creek and a nice flat pad along it’s banks. This would be home for the night. After rehydrating some good turkey enchalada bean stew and stretching out I crawled into my tent ready for rest!
We woke early on the edge of Wahtum Lake cold and slightly damp from the lakes humidity. There was also the harsh dry cough emanating from ChilliBins tent. Man shes got it pretty bad, I thought. It was only getting worse, but hopefully she could get some meds once we got into town.
We all packed up and let out in high spirits, knowing we were just 16 miles or so to the Washington boarder. It finally started sinking in, that the end of the journey was near. I knew there was still 500 miles left. However, this would only last about 3 weeks seeing hiking was now a full time 15 hour per day no weekedend career. I wont say job, because I could never look at this as work. Even though it is hard sometimes, you have to push yourself, your body, you must plan wisely, make big boy decisions, and all the chores that had to be done to ensure that you didnt starve or die from dehydration or some act of nature.
At any rate, we decended down from the large hill dropping like a rock into Cascade Locks. I had gotten signal and found out that Collin (a friend from work) who was hiking the PCT south bound was just pulling into town. I left my tracker off purposly so he wouldnt know I was coming into town to surprise him. Soon Sissyphus caught back up with Happy, ChilliBin and I and we all bombed down the hill togehter.
It was a bad burn area, I could only wish I could get my hands on the kid that started the Eagle Creek fire. He got no jail time and was supposedly charged 30 million. I didn’t think the verdict was hard enough. I tried to imagine how pretty it was before the fire and hiked on. Down down we went until we entered an area where the trees werent blackened to char.
WE all hiked on and chatted away, quickly decending and soon nearing town. You can always tell when you are close when you see day hikers (people that smell nice and look clean) and hear the sounds of cars on a highway in the distance. Finallly we road into town in high spirits. I found Collin and we all went to Thunder River for a beer, burger, and well deserved break. Later we set up camp at a local park and cruised around town getting chores done and prepping to walk across the Bridge of the Gods!
Collin: 23, from Seattle WA. On a sabbatlical from work as an Engineer, he is hiking the PCT with his brother headed southbound. After taking a week or so off the trail from a bad case of tendonitis, he is back on and feeling better than ever. Going slow in the beginning for injuries, but knowing the pressure of time pulling him to the Sierras before the onset of winter has him focused and ready for the task at hand. Tall and skinny, rocking a fresh new beard and a huge smile, he is super stoked, just to have the priviledge of being out on the trail. I kjnow hell make it to mexico with his determination!
I woke early and headed down into the lodge after packing up. I needed to go through my chores: charging, resupply food, get fresh water, eat some delicious hot breakfast, and somehow make it back onto trail.
The problem with these places is all the familiar smiling faces and chats w friends you havent seen for months just sucks you in. Sometimes you really do theed the rest, and other times you need to get out while the getting is good. Between Sissyphus reunion, followed with Happy and ChilliBin reuniting with me, TwoPack, Verde, Manza, ect ect . . . I finally gave into the fact that I wasnt leaving anytime soon. The upside was, I got to charge all my electronics and finish all my chores except washing clothes.
It was 7pm when Sissyphus, ChilliBin, Happy and I finally pushed out and walked the 3 miles to ZigZag Creek where we were to camp for the night. There wasnt much room but we made do.
Day 124:
We woke to the rushing creek and the sound of ChilliBins cough. She had been hacking since the smoke started in northern cali and it seemed to be getting worse. We all hiked out as she sucked on some losanges, hoping for a decent day on trail.
The trail reminded us what gain was all about as we had become complacent with most of the relaxed hills of Oregon. Climbing up and on through the trees we finally topped out and caught our breath. The smoke was back and any hopes of a good long distance view was dashed.
He hiked on, soon finding a good shady spot to chill and hang for a break. WE overlooked a valley and chatted on about possibly going to PCT TrailDays which is an annual event to meet hikers and gear merchants. I was hard pressed against going and didnt want to get stuck in a huge hiker bubble leaving town.
We pressed on, over the Muddy Fork river, climbed up the ridge on the other side and were once again consumed by the forest. It was blueberry season, and we were like little hungry bear cubs stuffing our faces in delight. We still neded to push miles, but between the breaks and the gazing at large moss covered pines, we found ourselves munching on the delicious succulant berries.
Finally we came to Wuhtum Lake and it took a while, but finally found a vacant camp spot on a thin beach boadering the lake Tired and watching the last of the light leave the sky, we took what we could get. ChilliBins cough had not gotten better in the day, but at least we were at rest just 16 miles from town and hopefully some good meds!
TwoPacks Blog: Teeheepct.blogspot.com
Study app: Cram
Podcast Reccomendations: Criminal – Exit network, All the time in the world
I woke and packed up my things quietly. Some of the people who were in their tents when I arrived the night before were still in full on slumber! I grabbed some water form the creek and proceeded to hike up trail.
Up through the forest I went until I ran into SmileyFace who was trekking along at nearly the same pace. We started chatting on about the trail and life before and plans for life after. Through the trees we went chatting on until we came to the edge of Timothy Lake. The lake was huge and the trail hugged its edge.
We soon came upon a large group of campers all trodding along heading back to their cars from thir overnight adventure. The number of kids rivaled the adults and it was nice to see them starting backpacking so young. We passed on and said hello as we did.
Next stop, Little Crater Lake. Just 1/4 mile off the PCT the beautiful lake lay hidden from the main trail. I first walked up not knowing what to expect, then saw the crystal clear waters going to deep deep depths. The lake itself could have only been 60 feet or so apart but it was 45 feet deep! A few trees had fallen in and I marveled at its beauty.
SmileyFace pressed on and I decided to nap for a bit. When I woke it was time to move and after a pressing up through the trees for a few more miles I came to a road where the Mad Baker, a trail angel, was all set up. He had snacks galore and a group oof us was gathered snacking down. I thanked him for his hospitality and moved on.
Back into the woods I went up a large wooded hill and back down the other side where at a trailhead another trailangel waited with fresh fruit from his garden. Man, what luck! I pressed on as there was only 5.5 miles left to Timberline Lodge.
The hill gained and I stridded along enjoying the grade. Openings in the trees sometimes gave me glimpses of the lodge up ahead. Finally I popped out into an exposed treeless area and I could see the peak of Mt. Hood! How magnificent! I trudged up a sandy bit of trail and labored on until finally the lodge came into sight. The camp area behind the lodge was packed with hikers and out of nowhere Sissyphus popped out! I hadnt seen him since Tuolumne Meadows and I was so excited! We hung out with Opera and Tapeworm chatting on and having dinner. It was a good darn day, and tomorrow morning, breakfast at the lodge!
I woke woke cold next to the creek. My alarm had gone off, but I was still tired and set it for 20 minutes later. Eventually I got moving in the chilly morning. To my surprise I didnt get on trail until 6:30. I woundered if I had somehow dozed off again in the alarm snoozing.
At any rate I pressed on up the hill until open meadows painted in golden light came into view. I could see frost on some of the wooden signs and a mistlike smoke rising from a nearby pond. It was an abnormally cold night, but made for a beautiful morning. I hiked up the next ridhe and looked back to see Mt. Jefferson in all its glory standing tall and strong with large snow passes covering its north face.
I continued on up a long ridge before finally gaining the pass. As I did, the first views of Mt. Hood came into view, It was spectacular. Shrouded in clouds at the base,and covered in snow at the top! I took some time to admire it and the surrounding deep blue mountains. I decended being swallowed again by the forest.
I bumped into a few day hikers as I went. It want until Ollallie Lake that I took my next break. To my surprise there was trail magicand a 2017 hiker named Kareoke was manning a grill taking on hotdog or hamberger orders. What an Angel! This was really a treat. After a burger, some chips, and a cold soda, I sat there in a comatose mode, but knew I had to move.
I finally got up said goodbye to everyone and thanked them for their hospitality. I slogged the next few miles like Frodo walking the last few miles to Mt. Doom. The short rests and not much sleep finally caught up to me. I found a spot near Jude Lake and had a nice nap for 25 minutes.
I woke aleart and ready to go. I stuffed some calories into my mouth and got a move on. The miles went quickly through the forest. Twisting trails, up and over long hills until I happened upon Jelly taking a break by a dirt road. I paused to chat for a bit, and found that we had the same target for the night, the Warm Spring River. It was only 3 miles away and 8pm, there was still about 45 minutes of usable light and I let out.
A blood red sunset on pale blue sky behind the trees. I watched as the light faded and I hurried. The next few miles were quick, but as I came to the river, I found that there was a plethera of hikers camped nearby. There hadnt been any places to camp in the last 3 miles, so I decided to stay worrying the next few miles wouoldnt yield much. I quitely set up, went through the motions and was soon in my sleeping bag ready for rest!
I slept in, a little celebration treat to myself for hiking to 9:45pm the night before so I could touh the 2000 mile mark. I woke cold and feeling damp. Once I pulled myself from my tent and packednup I realized a fog was starting to set in.
I hiked on, with my hoddy still on and zipped up. In the back of my mind I thought “Welcome to the Pacific North West” sarcastically. As I shuffeled on with my hot coffee in hand I started to hear the sound of cars on the approaching highway. Once I reached it, I met Stallion who was sitting there smoking a rolled cigarette, debating if he was going to go into town fpr breakfest. I bid him good luck and pressed up the hill across the highway. To my amusement there was a few boxes of wine left at the trailhead, I chuckled and went on.
The dead trees and the invading mist looked like what I imagine the entrance to Mordor would seem like. Although it seemed daunting at first, it was pretty cool. The white trees stood like skeletons amongst the new growth. The mist rolled on. Soon I met Dave, a section hiker who was trekking at a darn good pace and we chatted on for a bit as the rain threatened.
Wind kicked up and as we turned a corner, I found a little cubby for a snack and bid Dave good luck. I chowed down. After finishing the push up the ridge the other side seemed like night and day different. It was warm and th sun burst through the foggy clouds. Soon I heard the voices of 2 happy trail runners who quickly passed me by.
After a nice decent I came upon Rockpile Lake where Dave, his brother, and a few others were gathered. After a quick chat and a rest I pressed on. Soon Mt Jefferson came into view. The peak was shrouded in cloud and it looked pretty awesome! I gazed at it as the ridge drew me closer. Finally the trail turned and started a rapid decent, past lakes, down through thick trees, until finally coming to Milk Creek. Several hikers were there, filtering water and I felt crouded. After finding my way across I pressed on and up the hill.
The burn area I entered was impressive to say the least. It was singed black, although some growth could be seen. You would walk for a while and then hear a quick snap of a tree, as if there was a large animal nearby. Head snapping in the direction, there would be nothing, just the decaying forest looming back. I pressed on after gathering some water.
The sun began to set and I quikened my pace. I carefully crossed Russell Creek which had a thunderous voice and water crashed down that could easily sweep you away. Then I pressed up the final hill in darkness to find a camp, mostly full. I found a little flat pad near the creek and plopped down. I figured the sound of water would muffle me setting up, and soon after the nightly chores, I was in my tent ready for rest!
Hiker Profile:
Dave – 50s FromCentralia, OR. A section hiker and a self employed carponter, he and his brother are chipping away at the PCT. They hope to do the full push once the kids move out, but until then Sectioning will have to do. Hes a tall fella with a quick stride and a great ability to hold a full conversation in that full stride without wayning in breath.
In usual fassion ChiliBin was up and out of camp before Happy and I had a chance to get moving. It was a beautiful morning, Happy and I pressed on through the green forest until we were spit out onto the lava fields. It reminicent of Mordor.
It may of looked bleak to some eyes, but I thought it was beautiful! Being able to look oer the stretching landscape and explore in the laspse of an active volcanic site was pretty sweet! The rocks were sharp, black, and full of holes making them low in desity and light to the touch. We trekked on taking in the landscape and marveled at the trees that dared to grow here.
We turned a corner and met Baram who was from south Korea. After a quick chat we found out that he had hiked the AT and PCT, but re-started the tripple crown (AT, PCT, CDT) carrying a banner in memory of his classmates who died in a shipwreck just ooff the coast. We bid him good luck and trudged on.
IG: Baram304
The bright green leaves of the trees shown in great contrast to the black and red rocks surrounding them. We pressed though the final miles of the lava fields before coming to the road where Coppertone a trail Angel waited on us with cookies and rootbeer floats! I was stoked!
This is where ChiliBin and Happy departed my company. They planned to hitch into bend to get their resupply and some good beer as Happy knew a friend in town. I gave them both a big hug, said goodbye to Coppertone and headed out back into the lava fields alone. I hiked up a large hill through the percarious lava rocks. One wrong step would send you home with a broken ankle.
Finally the lava field let up and I hiked into an area that was once a forest but had been burned in recent years. It was trying to regrow but its a slow process out here. Finally I decended through the burn and found the turnoff for Big Lake Youth Camp.
I hiked in finding a ton of kids all running around and a good group of hikers all hanging out in the hiker hut. I charged up electronics, washed some clothes, took a shower, resupplied food and hung out with TwoPacks while we all waited for dinner. I came in a scarfed down the Potatow soup and fresh roles like a starving kid who hasnt seen food in a week. It was so good!
KNowing I couldnt stay forever I pressed on. I had 5 more miles until the 2000 mile marker and I was determined to get there before the day was done. I hiked on quickly as light was fading through the white ghosts of the dead trees. On and on I went until finally I broke out my headlamp as I entered a thicker part of the wood. Turn after turn I hiked faster until finally at 9:45pm I found the 2000 mile marker! I made it! Just 650 miles left to Canada. I started realizing how far I had come and how close the end of my journey was. I found a nice flat sandy pad and set up my tent. Fly off I could see the stars in the night twinckling overhead, along with Mars and Jupiter shinning bright. An awesome day indeed!
Reccomendations: St Fancis Pub in Bend. Must go to the broom closet!
We woke to a pale pink rose sunrise over the lake. It was gorgeous, but the clock said it was time to move. In usual fashion ChilliBin was out of camp by 5:45, Happy was off to take care of his morning business around the same time, and I was packing up in hopes to be on trail by 6. After a few miles of trekking I pulled over to talk to a tree about a dog and happy walks by my bag next to the trail and makes a good goat sound as he passes by. I return a call, finish my business, and get back to the trail. This was our morning routine, and it was funny how syncronized it all seemed.
I winded through thr forested hills. Some tuffs were covered in grass while others were made of jetting rocks. It was wounderful winding through them. The ponds from the day before continued to be on display trailside. I could tell thatt the ponds were rain water receptacles and there were no creeks feeding them. None that I could see at least.
Finally I caught back up to the gang as they were grabbing water from a creek. It was wounderfully cold and I filled my bottles. The next few miles meandered through a burn area and back into the forest before finally popping our to some nice good sized lakes.
We decided to take lunch lakeside, and it wasnt a dissapointment! Munching on, we chatted about the trail and the day, as well as our plans for the next few days. We finally pulled ourselves together and pressed on up a large hill that awaited us. Gotta pay the piper right?!
After the climb we popped out onto an open plain and 2 of the 3 sisters could be seen. There jetting rocky bodies towered over the surrounding area, treeless and rugged. I took them in with awe and my spirits were lefted. The next few miles melted away until finally I pulled ahead of the gang and happened upon the Obsidian Limited Area.
This very cool place required special permit (with exception to PCTers) where the Obsidean rock could be found littering the ground. I trekked on and in the distance the other follwed. Soon after finding some of this glass like rock and seeing how the Native Americans could have easily made weapons or tools from it, I turned a corner to find the Obsidian Falls.
It was gorgeous and all 3 of us couldnt help but getting in! The water was ice hold, but after the fridgid bite wore off the relief to the feet was incredible! WE took in the beautiful falls and finally pushed the last 2 miles to camp. It was a good long day, and once we made our camp we went through the nightly chores. The waterfall was a game changer, it really washed away any muscle fatigue of the day. Feeling clean and full we all found our way to bed!
We woke early and looked over the lake. Bats swooped low and skimmed the water searching for insects and scouping them up. It was awesome to watch, this way and that, even up to our camp perched on a high hill overlooking the cool waters.
Happy, ChilliBin, and I headed out after packing up. I waved goodbye to Smokebeard as I passed and followed the path that hugged next to the lake as I passed by. There was a bit of a climb through the wood until finally reaching the top a nice long decnent started.
Tree moss was everywhere clinging to the tall trees. They looked as though they all had shabby coats or nice long beards. At the bottom of the decent, just by Charelton Lake two groups of people were set up handing out trail magic! There was blueberry pancakes, soda, water, beer, chocolate milk, a slew of snacks and other goodies including homemade cookies. A large group of us gathered around and stuffed our faces like little homeless children on the streets of London.
I pulled myself from the merry crew knowing I had to get out now or be stuck for another hour. Exhausted, I slogged though the next few miles like a zombie. Im not sure if it was too many calories at once or the lack of sleep, but I was dragging butt! I stopped for a quick break.
The next few miles features lake after lake. Some of them werent very deep, while others were dried up all together. A few were deep enough to swim in, but I dedicated myself to making progress up trail and didnt stop for a dip. I did however, stop for a short snack break. Two rangers walked by and we chatted a while after I startled them when they werent paying attention to an unexpected hiker laying on the ground snacking away. They were both young , in theor 20s, and very nice. We said farewell and I started off again on the trail.
Soon the canopy overhead grew thick and the underbrush was lush and green. The bushy undebrush started closing in on the trail and soon found myself twisting this way and that. The lakes continued on, and soon a large once came into sight.
A guy named Tumbleweed was camped there and said Happy and ChilliBin were only a half hour ahead so I hurried on. Soon I came to Mac Lake where I found them hanging out just after a swim by the shore. I stolled u, chatted away, then went through the nightly motions before finally I found myself tucked away in my tent, ready for bed.
I woke in the morning to a mosquito attack. Its as of the ones the night before had alerted the hord and they aid waiting for me outside my tent. SunDown was in his twent next to me, boiling up water for some coffee and enjoying his morning routine.
I quickly packed up and with coffee in hand, headed up the trail. The forest was still thick here and the trees were covered in a light green moss. It clung to all of them it seemed, almost like bandages to a mummy in a classic cartoon.
I soon happened upon Summit Lake which I could see through the mossy trees. It was beautiful and the sunrise glinted across its surface. Dirt roads let to trail for campsites near the bank, and I pressed on through the trees.
Lilypad ponds upon lilly ponds were riddles in the forest here. At every turn it seemed. It was most definityly a mosquito paradise and my clothes and skin was smeared with far too many misquote bodies to count. I felt bad, but still sometimes you cant help the autoreaction.
Finally I started a long decent and after twisting down among the ferns and low underbrush I found my turnoff to Shelter Cove. I pressed on and crossed a really cool 1 log bridge over a wide creek. In about a mile I crossed some traintracks, and finally found a paved road which lead to the parkinglot of Shelter Cove. A slew of hikers were hanging out front and I knew most of them.
After greetings to HappyFeet, ChilliBin, Sundown, Happy, CoolRunnings, Photon, Tiny Slice, and many others, I ordered up a burger and beer. The usual chargin of batteries, brbbing food resupply and happy banter ensued. Soon after feeling renewed I put my shoes back on and Happy, ChilliBin and myself hike out.
Its always a nice feeling to get out of a town or resupply point and escaping the urge to stay. We pressed on, back up the road, to the small trail that eventually rejoined the PCT. It felt good and Happy and I went on debating about the possibility of sucessfully establishing unilateral wealth and its impact on a people. It always seems like the convos get deep haha. Before we knew it we were at Lower Rosemary Lake and setting up for the night. SmokeBeard, an old friend from the desert was camped nearby and joined up for dinner starting up a whole new debate. It was nice to chill out and chat on. Soon the light faded, and so did all our desires to stay awake. It was a darn good day, and we all crashed hard!
I woke to my solo tent site and went through the morning motions. Coffe in hand I started up the hill in front of me, skirting Thiessen Mountain. I soon happened upon MoonMan and SilverFox who were trodding along enjoying the morning views.
As MoonMan passed, SilverFox and myself chatted on at length about his sons, and what they did. His oldest was and Engineer and worked for Tesla, which I thought was great. Our chat turned to the trail and the terrain, just as he pulled off for a snack. I waved goodbye and headed for Thiessen creek.
The creek was rolling well in a nice tucked away valley that looked like it ran all the way up to the face of the jetting peak of Thiessen Mountain. What a view! I met LionHeart here, who I had never seen on trail before, and we chatted on for a bit before he headed our. I filtered water and soon TinySlice and Sticky Fingers came rolling in to grab some water.
I finished my break and rolled out after cameling up for the 20 mile water carry. The trail took off skirting the moutntains. Nats grouded my feet, hovering over the trail and I pressed through there little clouds as the trail winded. My spirits were much better today than the day before, and my body felt good. I breaked after some miles and threw my feet up.
The forested trail winded through with ease. There were some climbs and falls but for the most part it was pretty gentle. I rolled on along the next few miles, soon bumping into a big group of hikers all having their lunch. I knew most of them and I paused to chat before pressing on.
What a nice day, the breeze was good, temps werent too hot, and the trail was beautiful. I soon passed the OR/WA PCT high point and thought “its all down hill from here right?!” The twisted and winded and finally spit me out at a trailhead where a bunch of water jugs, some all the way full, waited for hikers.
Brown Streak, Tiny Slice, Sticky Fingers, and SunDown were all here hanging out for a break, refilling their water jugs. I did the same, and soon had my pack strapped on, headed up the hill. SunDown caught up and we started chatting away. Thru hiking, the PCT, AT, CDT, CT, Hayduke trail, Florida Trail, the list went on and on. We chatted about our experiences as we climbed the beautiful ridge to find far views of jetting peaks and soon large crisp lakes.
The next 7 miles melted away as we jammered on, soon we found a nice place to camp and plopped on down. I went through the nightly routine as was soon all sug in my bag away from the mosquitoes clinging to my tent walls. It was a good darn day!
Hiker Profile:
LionHeart – 20s, from Northern Germany. He started his hike in Seiad Valley, and hiked to Ashland, in which time he got some horrible knee pains. His inner and outer IT bands were enflamed and he took 3 weeks off to heal. Now that hes back on trail, hes taking it easy with 16 mile days, and has a great attidute, seems to be really loving being out on the PCT. “Enjoy Life” he hollered to me as I felt from meeting.
SunDown – 50s, from the Pennsylvania. Worked for HDD for quite a few years before finally selling his house, quitting his job and setting himself up to do the PCT, the Colorado Trail, and the TA in New Zealand. Hes already completed the AT 3 times, JMT 3 times, this is his 3rd PCT hike, completed the Florida Trail, and hopes to finish out his journey on the CDT. A wild man indeed, he says “I just love hiking”. I can tell I told him!
I woke to the alarm and I hit the snooze. I had stayed up far too late at our campfire chqatting on with hikers that gathered. I set it for 6:15 and rolled over, back to sleep. It seemed like only minutes and it was blasting again. I started to move and got myself together.
Pack on I said goodbye to the hikers left, which were pretty low in number, and hiked out. Happy and ChilliBin were long gone and hiked out solo. It seemed like a good day for it. With my hoody still on I hiked up the road and back to the PCT meandering through the green forest in the crisp morning air. I switchbacked forward and back, climbing a good hill before finally popping out to the rim of Crater Lake. I stopped in the Cafe and grabbed some coffee and water before pressing on.
It was a tourist heavy area, but the non-perfect conditions with the smoke probably drove many away. I walked to the rim and looking down felt something slightly like seeing the Grand Canyon. The lake was vast and beautiful turqoise green at the edges and a deep blue in the deeper parts. Wizard Island stuck out like a volcano within a volcano. It was pretty impressive. I hiked the rim trail and got to see Wizard Lake from all sides. It wasnt perfect visibility, but it was still specacular!
The trail skirts the lake for the most part, sometimes leading away and coming back. I wathced cars speed past and saw groups of people crouding near lookout areas. It was pretty nice, even when the trail broke away from the lake and meandered through open praries. I couldnt be more content strolling along.
Soon I came to a first water cache where the Rim Trail rejoins PCT, and I stopped for a quick break and a short well needed nap. I woke up and trekked on bumping into BearCub as I headed out (she used to be FancyPants in the desert). I chatted shortly and waved goodbye as I headed out. It wasnt long before I found Silver Fox, Conflicted, Tiny Slice, and BrownStreak all hanging out and chatting. I paused for a moment to say hello, and out chat continues as they got up and joined me walking.
Bearcub, just chillin. An old friend way back from the desert!
Tiny Slice and myself led out and chatted on abut his winter job as a ski lift chair worker and how he loved getting free ski passes for all the nearby parks. We chatted on and before long the final miles to camp melted away. There was a big group of hikers at the camp just after the next water cache and I stopped to chat for a bit. I decided it was too early to stop and I kind of wanted to get away from the crowds, so I pressed on another 0.5 miles, just before a large climb over a ridge. Here, just beyond the wilderness boundary I made my camp. It was a great day, and really nice to have experiences Crater Lake. I knew I would have to come back and explore this area in depth!
I woke early to a cold morning and I labored to get going. I had my hoody zipped up to my lips and I went through the motions and finally was standing palming my coffee in hands.
I moved slow as ChilliBin and Happy were already on the trail. It was a short 6 miles to the road that leads to Mazama. I hurried along through the pined lined trail. Soon I popped out and they both stood by the road waiting for me.
We put our thumbs out and started walking. By the time we got withing a half mile of the place we knew there was no cars coming and decided to suffer the last few miles on foot.
Finally we arrived! We sat down and stuffed ourselves at breakfast before heading to the general store and grabbed our packages from the post office. Hikers were gathered around the store and soon more started arriving. HappyFeet, Photon, SilverFox, the list goes on and on.
My friend Penguin’s back has seen better days!
Just as soon as we got ready to head out we lookedd up and realized that smoke rolled in. Looking at the situation we soon realized that we were going to stay the night and wait until the morning when the smoke was clear so we could actually see Clater Lake! We settled in and hung out with all the hikers after a really nice shower. The night wore on late ending in a fire and good banter between friends. It was a shor, but good day!
It was cold as my alarm blasted and I stirred in my sleeping bag. I didn’t want to move, but I knew the time had come an the “just 5 more minutes mom!” wasnt goign to work. Chilli bin was out of camp and both Happy and myself pulled doddled along.
Happy and I went on chatting on and on about all kinds of topics: the trail, the trail, Washington, gun control, differences in upcoming generations, all kinds of things. The Trail meandered through the woods and we were both taking our sweet time.
Before long I pulled over to call BooBooo Johnson, and Happy pressed on. I stopped for a good break and tried to see some good views through the smoke. After a few miles I caught up to ChiliBin and Happy refilling water. Breaktime again! We chatted on, then soon all pressed on our ways.
I felt in a daze for the next few miles, I was definitly still tired from the night before. None the less I pressed on. Finally I entered a large burn area that apparently had caught fire just the previous year. The soil was burned and it looked like sand almost. Only a plant here or there would grow in this area. We soon found a tree that had red sap seeping from it, it looked as though it was bleeding. Pretty cool actually, only slightly creepy!
Soon Happy and I were trekking together again chattin on, then turned the corner to see ChiliBin having a nice rest by the trailside. We hiked the last few miles together and finally found camp, surprisingly before the sunset! Going through the nightly ritual we all watched the sun lower to the horizon, turn big and red, and the briliant colors shown on the sky behind the burned dead trees. It was pretty cool way to end the evening!
ChilliBin was up and out of camp by 5:30. I was still shuffling around in my tent packing things into stuff sacks as she headed out. Happy was in the same boat as me, taking our time, just trying to get out of camp before 6. I was standing with coffee in hand just 10 minutes before, success!
We headed out, pausing at Grizz creek to grab some water to start the day. We continued our push through the woods, and I looked about noticing how many downed trees there were. The forest was beautiful as the golden sunrise made the green leaves glow.
Our first break came, and not too soon as my stomache was growling away. After another meandering stretch of trail we paused at Brown’s Cabin for water. There was a great large, old school pump that you manually worked up and down to get the water to flow. It was cold and tasty! We all set down at a convenient picknick table nearby.
We pressed on again, back into the woods and soon I noticed the abundance of blueberries everywhere. I paused and gathered some stuffing my mouth! Soooo tasty. Soon after we entered a lava rock area. The ladscape was covered in black volcanic rock, but the trail itslef was a nice red vocanic rock. I loved this section and cruised through happily!
We popped out at a road, grabbed water one more time from Cascade Canal, then took off for the 10 mile stretch to came. We were all taking our own pace in stride and enjoying the views. Soon I came upon Happy and ChilliBin breaking at the turnoff to Four Mile Lake. We chatted about our plan to camp in 3 miles just near the spring, and took off!
The smoke seemed to thicken and just get worse as we climbed. It almost looked like a deep fog rolling on from the distance. I made sure my mask was pulled up proper and pressed on. Finally we reached the Christies Spring and it looked like a hiker reunion, there had to have been 12 people hanging around. We decided to grab water and hike back just 0.1 of a mile to a nice campsite we saw on the way in.
Waving goodbye and heading back we soon found camp, set up, stretched, stuffed our faces, and all crawled our tired bodies into our tents, redy for some much needed recovery. Crater Lake National Park was within reach and we were all excited to see it!
Happy, ChilliBin, and I woke up late in the hotel room. There was no alarm set and it was alreay 6:30. We all pulled ourselves together and got down to the continental breakfast before headeing out to the road to try and hitch. With coffee and some muffins in us, we stood smiling as the cars passing, laughing at howthe two bearded guys in the group seemed to be doing most of the work.
ChilliBin laughed, but before long a lovely retired lady and her dog Higgins came rolling to a stop and opened up her car to us. We hopped in the Outback and were soon chatting on about our experience as we sped off towards the trail. We thanked her kindly, and were all stoked to get our feet moving!
The rolled on singing along to Elton John songs down the road before finally we once again entered the forest and the single track trail. It rolled and bounded. Up, down skirting hillside and traversing valleys. The woods were pretty, and after a stretch we came to our first pring of the day. We plopped for a quick snack and all chatted on, running into southbound hikers that warned us of the mosquitoes to come.
Pressing on Pilot Rock came into view covered in a nice thick cloud of smoke. I remember enjoying the prodominace of how it dominated the surrounding landscape. Once we circled around the back side we could see it has basalt columns that made up part of the formation. It was a beautiful formation.
We pressed on, winding through the hills before stopping at a resivior outlet, which was a small waterfall. We all plopped down and plundged our feet into the stream, it was a pretty nice treat. We had just 9 miles left, and after a nice break we carried on.
Winding though I could catch glimpses of the lakes in the distance. The forest would open to yellow grass fields and some smoke covered ridges could be seen from a far. I pulled my buff up higher over my nose and kept trekking. The last few miles started to grow dark as the sun was setting. Finally after using a bit of light I came to camp where ChilliBin and Happy were waiting and getting their dinners ready. I set up and went through my routine before diving into my tent. It was already late, but a good darn day!
I woke early as usual, only now I wasnt in my tent. Where was I?! It took a moment before my whits came back and realized I was sleeping on the Hotel floore of Happy and ChilliBin.
We all went about our chores, starting laundry, packing our bags, and getting trail ready. I grabbed a quick snack and blogged for a bit waiting for Happy and Chillibin to return.
We went to a place called Morning Glory for a full on breakfast. If you are ever in Ashland, make it a point to go, you wont be dissapointed!
One breakfast was done we rallied together, got all our things out of the hotel and headed for the postoffice. A day of chores was upon us!
Once done we went to a nice spot for lunch and we looked at each other exhausted at the efforts of running around town and doing resupplies for the next 3 stops.
I suggested we go back to the hotel and get in the pool and have a true zero mile day. To my surprise everyones spirirts were lifted and it was unaimous. It was a well needed rest and well deserved seeing I had been hiking 30 miles plus everyday since Tahoe (with te exception of 25 mile resupply days).
We went back, checked back in, and plopped all finally enjoying our time in town. The next day we would be back on trail, heading further into the interior of Oregon!
I woke later after the late night, and started packing up. After ready to go with coffee in hand I headed back towards the Oregon/California boarder to take a last look. As I did, Penguin, Flipper, Snacks, Tiny Slice, TrashQueen, and Froggy came rolling up to celebrate with me! (it just so happened to be Froggy’s bday!)
We got in a line like the 7 dwarves and rocked out. We cranked out the next few miles in unison like we were a platoon squaderent. We came to a spring and had a nice break where the jokes and bs of the day continued.
After the spring we started at our seperate times and speeds. I liked together, but it was also nice just cranking at my own speed, taking in the flowers when they came and the nice forest views. Smoke still lingered, but I tried to enjoy it the best I could.
After some miles I had a nice break on after pushing up a long large hill. I figured I had just 10 miles left to town and I though about juicy hambergers and beer. I cranked on, downhill and really started making up time. Through the valleys and twisting valleys I decended.
Finally I popped out onto a frontage road that lead to the I-5. I walked out, got my bearings, and soon threw out my thumb for a ride. Not 5 minutes later a lovely couple pulled over in a champagne blazer and hooked me up with a ride.
Before long I arrived at a Hotel where Happy and Chillibin were hangin out! I havent seen either of them together since Kenedy Meadows North. It was great to be back together and we chatted on over pizza and beer. Before long, exhuastion took over and I found some good sleep on the floore. Another great day!
I woke up next to the spring and got moving. As I packed my things away hikers started to pass my trailside accomidations. Most people wanted and early start to tackle the 4500 foot climb out of Seiad Valley before it got too hot. I figured id just keep my same old schedule and let the day roll out as it must.
Pack on and coffee in hand I headed up the hill. Flipper, Penguine, Snacks, Froggy, Tiny Slice, Conflicted, and a few others passed me in the morning. I was usually slow for the first 7 miles and taking on such a hill didnt inspire me to burn my legs out before the day even started. As I climbed I noticed the smoke was really bad. Not to mention that the sun came out in a red ball of flame to help kick up the humid heat.
I pulled my Buff over my face for a makeshift smoke mask and climbed on step after step slowly brought me higher, and hopefully to cooler temps than that of the valley below. Some of the trees were charred from a past fire, and half seemed dead. The dirt turned a deep red and it reminded me of southern Utah and all its beautiful sandstone.
Soon I came to the first spring of the day. It was cool and crisp, flowing at a good 1.5 liters per minute. Confliced was sitting at the branch where the spring rail went down and he was going on and on about how interesting the whole State of Jefferson was. There was a lot of signage in Seiad Valley supporting the movement. At any rate, the group of us chatted about Oregon, and our hopes of seeing it soon. California is a long state. Its 1691.5 miles of PCT long state.
I waved goodbye and headed out. Although the burn want the pretties thing, I could appreciate the beauty in it. In some places where the red dirt really stood out, the charred black trees helped to accent it. I winded through the hills, it seemed like I was always going up. Another spring came upon me, and I grabbed my fill. I was chugging a lot in the warmth of the smoke hidden sun.
The afternoon was upon me and I was humming along, picking up speed as the afternoon cooled. I turned corner and thought I heard music. I paused and realized it was the bells of a group of cows! My arch enemy! I crept closer, hoping they woud scare off, and too my amazement, they bolted at the sight of me! I turned the next corner and the group that had passed me in the morning was all set up for camp.
We chatted for a bit, and I announced I was going for the boarder. It was already 8pm, just an hour or so left of light and I still had 4 miles to go! My work was cut out for me! I cranked on, the grade wasnt too bad. The smoke persisted and blocked any chance for vistas. I cranked on,as the light fadded going quickly throught the woods. Finally I broke out my headlamp to finish the job. Twisting and winding, I started to get tired and then . . . finally, after 110 days, 1691.5 miles and a whole lot of hard work, I touched the boarder! It was a beautiful thing!
I hiked a bit more and found a spot to set up for the night. Tired, I put my tent up, made dinner, and cracked a celebratory beer! Man, just under 1000 miles left. Its funny to think back to Campo CA and where I started, the day I started. It seemed like such a long time ago. Well either way, it’s far from over!
You dont always know who you’re sleeping next to . . . or sometimes you do, and just don’t know it!
I had got into camp late the night before. All 3 people there were already asleep so I set up and went through my nightly routine as quickly and qietly as possible. In the morning I woke early as usual and started to pack up. With my bag on my back I noticed that 2 of the 3 were still in bed and probably woulnt have known I was ever there. The third was getting ready just a bush away. As he rounded the corner I noticed it was Bearcan!
“Hey man!” I exclaimed in a wisper. We were both delighted to see each other, and I didnt think I would ever catch up to him. In our excitement I looked over and noticed the person cowboy camping sat up, it was JellyBones! The guy in the tent was Trout! It was so crazy to think I camped next to all 3 people I knew and also was trying to catch up to. We chatted on shortly and Bearcan and I hiked out.
The mornings miles went quickly. The air was cool, the pines were pretty, and we chatted on as the trail seemed to take us as a roller coaster through the landscape. We stopped for a quick break and water before pressing on. Bearcan was in a hurry and wanted to get north quickly so he headed off. I said I’d catch him Seiad Valley.
The trail dive bombed from the nice temps at 5000 feet down to the bomby, humid climate od Seid Valley at 1300 feet. There was smoke in the air as well. It seemed to just get thicker as I decended. The canyon I was decending was lush and green, tons of ferns, plantlife of all kinds, and of course blackberries! I found a few bushes and paused for a while stuffing the tasty sweet morsels into my mouth.
After exiting the bottom of the trail I saw Penguin and her group (Flipper, Froggy, Tiny Slice, Snacks, and TrashQueen) just getting dressed after a swim. I wished I had time to dive in, but I wanted to get to the store before they closed at 7 and there was still a 5 mile roadwalk ahead of me. We chatted for a bit and I pressed on.
Soon Froggy caught up with me and we chatted on, walking the last miles quickly into town. The store was a little beat up and there were The Great State of Jefferson signs all about the place. It was interesting, but they had food that I needed and a place to charge my battery bank. Bearcan and the rest of Penguins group all assembed outside, chatting on and getting new food stores for the days ahead. We were all buzzing about Oregon being in reach.
The group pushed out, and hoping my battery would charge more I stayed until 9 before hiking out. I hiked in the dark 2 miles up the large climb. The first camp I came to had 2 tents and not much space. The hikers were already alseep, so I decided to hike on. Just a quarter mile later I found a spring and a flat spot where I could put my tent. Bingo! Within minutes I was set up and crawling into my tent. What a good day!
Hiker Profile:
Froggy – 26, from Columbus Ohio, and most recently Denver CO. A fun loving, and very particular fella, he enjoyed history podcasts and generally just learning about theworld around him. After a breakup with a long time girlfriend, he decided to hit the trail and sort things out. A quick hiker, he speeds on the downhills and whistles as he does it.
Podcast reccomend dation: The stuff you missed in history
I didn’t sleep very well at all. Tossing and turning every 30 minutes it seemed. None the less, I woke and was off at a usual early start. I hiked on without my coffee this morning, as I was none about. There were no eggs and bacon either, so I couldn’t be comlpaining that much. I hiked up the hill from camp and soon noticed there were 3 hikers behind me.
This annoyed me. I dont like people I dont know hiking behind me, so I picked up my step and pressed on. At the time I only had 1.5 liters of water and it was a 14 miles stretch to the next source if I didnt pick up any at the next creek. Being so stubbord and annoyed by the hikers I forgot all about topping off and hiked right past the creek. I realized it by the time I got to the road.
A paved highway lead to Etna, which I had opted to skip over by grabbing a few extra days food from Mt. Shasta. It was a good thing too as the road looked like a ghost town, save a lonely hiker waiting for a car to come speeding by. I bid him good luck and pressed on, trying not to think about water.
The climb came shortly after and I tried to sip sparringly at the life fluid in my bottles. The trail was chunky granit and on a down after the climb it finally let up to a soft red dirt. It kept switching back and forth like the trail couldn’t make up its mind. I was tired from the sleepless night before and it was starting to show on me.
I mouth was dry and I was down to 0.5 liters. There was a spring just up trail, however it was 0.5 miles rount trip off trail with some gain involved. I wanted bady to skip it, but the next water was 3 miles after and I had already been rationing my water until this point. My mouth pleeded for a sip, and I allowed a small one, just enough to fight off the drymouth. Suddenly just a mile before the spring turnoff I found a very small trickling seep coing out of the wall. Most anyone would have passed it up thinking it wasnt worth the time, but I grabbed a leaf nearby and went to work. Soon after 3 minutes or so I had a full liter of water and rejoyced!
I pressed on and soon bumped into a tail crew hiking along with old school gear, obviously headed to a new camp setting up their next work spot. I passed and thanked them for their work. After a mile or so more I came to a creek, had a snack, and a much needed nap. I was starting to stumble around from exhaustion and my pace was sluggish and slow. I needed a reset button.
I woke refreshed, threw my pack on and headed up trail. Soon I bumped into Cougar and we chatted a while. The usual, fires, why we are here, where we are from, what we did before this. We chatted on until coming to the next spring where we collected water. She decided to break and I pressed on and up the next big climb. Up and down and up again.
Finally I dipped into a valley riddled with marble rock which was also lush and green. I soon found the creek that was feeding all this growth and filled my bottles. Swan came around the corner and we chatted on as we filered, watching a nearby deer munch on grass. I said my goodbyes and pushed the last 2 miles to camp. Whew, finally made it. Shoes off, tent up, food done, and lights out. A good day indeed!
Hiker Profile:
Cougar – 42, from Seattle. She graduated Mechanical Engineering, but worked for the Navy on Nuclear Power plants. She loves quilting and discovered this when she worked at a fabric shop in her teens. Always facinated by the trail, she finally said she needed a break from work and made the time to make it mappen. She usually hikes with her partner Hurricane, however he is currently a long way off trying his hand at he Ledville 100 race. If she can get to cascades locks in time, she plans to fly out and cheer him on. A very nice lady indeed!
I woke as usual and went through the morning routine. It was like breathing at this point. I could pack up everything, have breakfast and coffee in hand, trail ready in just 30 minutes now.
I hiked on and up the hill I started the nigth before. As I got close to the ridgetop, I heard a bellowing from below sounded like a cattle in distress. I listened and woundered, then started walking. Again it sounded, loud and echoing across the valley to my right. I have a wierd thing about cows. I dont like them much. That, and they kill 10x more people than sharks do per year. Im just waiting for “cow week” to start. I pressed on hoping I wouldn’t run into them.
For the next few miles, little springs and creeks popped up regularly. It was nice to see the plants clinging to the cool water. I filled my bottle and kept on trekking.
Soon, as I came into a red rock mountounous area, I noticed a trail crew working away. I said hello as I passed and thanksed each of them for their hard work. They in turn thanked me for walking the trail, which I thought was the lesser of the 2 deeds. But I guess one needs the other.
Smoke filled the valleys in the far view and I began to wounder about the wild fires in Oregon and potentially Washington. As I dropped into a valley, all my worry was wiped away with the strong smell of cows. I walked in hesitation with my head on a swivel. I could see their tracks going this way and that. I was hoping they wouldnt be gathered at the next watering hole that I was countng on to fill up. The smell dissipated bit and as I drew nearer, to my relief, no cows. I filled my bottles and plopped for a quick snack. A small mouse was running around a tree nearby, scoping me out, then as soon as seeing I was alert, went running around the other side.
I trekked on and soon ran into Brunchrunner who was my first run-in with a hiker on the day. We chatted on and on about where we were from and the wildfires ahead. Soon we came to a creek and I stopped for water as he let out.
The trail started to climb, and it was a good one. It seemed to go tirelessly up with no sign of relaxing. The only relief was a light wind blowing. I pushed myself and enjoyed the breaks as they came in dips in the trail. I could soon see far ahead into the hazy distance. The smoke made the ridgelines into silouettes, and it looked pretty cool.
I stopped for a final break and soon after made the final push. The trail went up and down skirting a ridge, and for the last 2 miles seemed to go straight up before finally letting go at a nice saddle. The views were great and I rolled through the next few miles of burn area with ease. I came to the runoff of Paynese Lake and decided I had gone on long enough for 1 day. I set up my tent, ate dinner, stretched, and crawled my tired feet inside for a much needed slumber. It was a good day!
Hiker Profile:
BrunchRunner, Mid 20 from Oakland CA. He says Oakland isn’t all that bad of a place to live, and actually really enjoys it. He was a Software Engineer, and worked in San Diego for some time. While there he would go to mountain towns where he would hike and backpack around. During these weekend excursions he would regularly meet PCT hikers on the trail. The seed was planted and now hes here to see his dream come to reality. Hes thinking of moving to Portland after the trail and still longs to see a Bear.
Be alone in the woods sometimes, it’s good for you.
I woke and went through the usual routine. I filtered water from Porcupine Lake an was surprised to find how warm it was. I packed up before the rest of the crew had even stirred, and I let out on the trail.
I would see glimpses of the morning sun, but being blocked by a ridge left me curious how it looked on the face of Mt. Shasta. As I followed the winding trail I saw quite a bit of smoke in the air. I assumed it was from the fire to the south. I even smelled the burning wood, which meant it could be close. I pressed on listening to the song birds before coming to a short rest at DeadFall Creek Spring. I filled my bottles with the cool clear liquid and scanned the surrounding ridges while eating a second breakfast. The Hobbits had it right, I though to myself.
I packed up and headed on bumping into a few day hikers as I went. A guy and his grandkids, a man by himself, and a man with two kids who were telling me to be ware of zombies. I laughed and said I would as I trekked on. It wasn’t long that I came upon the trailhead they emmerged from.
I trekked on and winded through the woods as I watched birds fly and chipmunks scatter at the sight of me on the trail. I came to yet another spring and had a small break while kicking my shoes off. A pair of blond bearded brothers, wearing almost the same thing hiked by. I said hello, but neither looked in the mood for small talk, or big talk, or any talk for that matter.
I pressed on and enjoyed the long stretch with open views. I crossed paths with a green mojave rattlesnake, who looked like he had business of his own. And a baby bird who looked as though he was too young to fly and the nearby parents were either scolding him, or me for being too close.
It wasnt until the last few miles of the day that I bumped into Anarchy from Aulstralia. We chatted on as we both hiked down towards Hwy 3. He went on about his crew he was hiking with and why he was here. He seemed to really enjoy the atmosphere on trail. As we got to the road he headed off in his own direction for camp, and I kept hiking on.
After a mile or 2 I found a nice spout trailside, just a few miles from the next spring where I steaked my claim for the night. I hadnt seen much of anyone all day long, but I wasnt complaining, sometimes its nice to have the woods all to yourself!
Hiker Profile:
Anarchy – 20s from Aulstralia. He came to the states to hike the PCT for the social experience. Trail Angels, Trail Magic, Towns easily accessible, other hikers the same age, and a while sub-culture of people just out for a long walk across the Untied States. It called to him, and he answered. After his trail friends dfound out he carried a womans deoderant that was called Anarchy for Her, he got his trailname!
I woke early and got myself moving. Tank, Dingo, and Dingos partner had already left the camp and I wasn’t far behind. As I climbed I soon found the manzanita seemed to dominate the landscape. It lined the trail and kept it company when hikers were away.
I started what others referred to as a dreaded climb. It was humid out, warm, and the air was thick with smoke from a nerby fire. No great views with the smoke, but the jetting Crags of Castle Crag could be seen through the haze as jagged teeth of the menacing mountain. It did look pretty cool and I snapped a few pictures.
The climb was long and hardy and my legs wayned under my backpack laden with 5 days of food. It was a price that sometimes you had to day! I trudged on and soon found a break in the grade and shade in some trees. I plopped for a break and soon Mouse and her friend joined me for a quick snack.
It was time to move and I pressed on and up the hill, it seemed like a forever gain until finally I came to a spring and stopped for water after the 10 mile dry stretch. The weight of the food and water made me much slower than usual. But the good news was I had fresh fruit in my bag and the thought of a nice apple or orange made me forget the weight, at least for a time.
I pressed on, and up again. I soon come to a came where at least 10 hikers had all taken a lunch break and afternoon nap. Not in the mood and needing to get some miles in, I pressed on. TreeBeard followed me out and we chatted on as we walked the ridge. He was an interesting fella, and really was glad to be out in Cali enjoying the mountains.
I slogged the next miles slowly and I felt like a slug, it was still a beautiful day. However, I had started to heard thunder in the distance, and I watched and the hug pluming clouds gathering. There was 1 more short beak at Picayune Spring before I pressed on for camp. The hope was Porcupine Lake, but the thunder continued to draw nearer.
Closer it came as I hurried on. I saw a large number of hikers setting up not too far after the spring, but I wanted to get a bit further. The light sprayed through the clouds in some areas and I could see rain falling in others across the valley. Then I felt it, the first drop of water had hit my shoulder. I hurried on faster and finally got to the lake turnoff as the rin started coming down harder. To my surprise Tank, Dingo, and her partner were there all set up, tucked away in their tents.
I set up quickly and by the time I dove in the tent the drops seemed to gain in size and fall more rapidly. It was only a short spell, but after making dinner and stretching in my tent the rain seemed to drop off. I wasn’t in the mood for a wet night, but the air up here was much cooler than down in the valley. I thought back to all the great views of the day and my favorite were of the building storms. Another good one for the books!
Hiker Profile:
TreeBeard – early 30s, from Laguna beach. Hes held quite a few odd jobs, including running a WOLFing farm in Hawaii, being a fire catcher at festivals, and a surf instructor. Super nice and friendly, we chatted on about his different jobs. His main stay is helping out his disabled dad which he has been doing for some time now. He was solid enough to be left for a few months at a time so he came out to hike! Free spirited and a hell of a good guy!
I woke up warm, just 3 miles from the road that lead to Mt. Shasta city, and I was undecided on my plan. After hiking down the hill and finding my way to the road, a lovey lady and her dog came to a hault by my side. She rolled her window down manually and asked if I needed a ride. “Heck yea!”, was my only responce.
Martha and Mo had made my choice for me between Mt. Shata and Etna for places to resupply. I was very grateful and we chatted on during the ride into town.
I thanked her as she dropped me off at a bakery which had some awesome coffee and great food! Afterwards et up will JellyBones, Trout, Ketchup, and SugarMan at their hotel where we all caught up and I returned Jelly Bones knife, which somehow ended up in my posession.
The next few hours were full of going around town and trying to see if I could find a ride to the base of Mt Shasta, the actual mountain. After hours of trying, I relized I’d have to hitch all the way to the next town, then somehow hitch up a dirt road. I decided getting back on trail and finnishing was more important.
After resupplying I went back to the Climbing gym where hikers were camping out, and met up with Tank who I hadn’t seen since Tuolumne Meadows. We chatted on about our common friend Noodles who decided to leave the trail. Its sad, but it happens. Afterwards we both caught the 6pm shuttle back to the trail.
Soon my feet were back on dirt again and I pressed on. Up and up it seemed (maybe I was just tired) until I finally found the camp just beyond the wilderness boarder. I set up, made dinner, and was soon fast alseep!
I woke to the alarm and started moving. After packing up and seeing Tank had gone, I pushed on. As soon as I did I looked over to see a deer had walked right into camp and was munching on some small plants nerby. With felt still on his horns he looked to me without a care in the world and just went on about his day. I hiked on.
The trail sweepd through the landscape with the ease of a skiier down rolling hills. It was beautiful and canopied in. It was a world of canyons and hillsides hidden away from the light and I drank it in. Moss covered treed, and rocks were everywhere. Large rock outcroppings would sometime jett out from the trees and landscape as if forced. I crossed the bridge over the McCloud River and really enjoyed its influence on the terrain it touched.
I soon came upon Disnay and we chatted a while as we both decended. We went on about why she was here, and what we both did before the PCT. We soon came to a creek and stopped for water fillup and a quick snack.
The creek gathered in pools before dropping a short 10′ over the edge to a large awaiting pool before. I filtered water as we chatted on and stuffed some Cheetoes in my mouth. After the break was done I said my goodbyes and headed out just as JustMatt arrived. “Hey man!” He exclaimed and we chatted breifly about where we camped the night before and what our plans for on the day.
I trekked on alone and twisted and winded before finding the next water source: Squaw Valley Creek. I went down to the waters edge to fill my bottle with cold water when I found myself peering down into a 6′ pool of crystal clear water. I couldnt resist, in a flash my clothes were off and I let out a loud woop as I jumped into the rejuvinating water. How invigorating and I urged a few other hikers to come as they passed the brudge below. Zero, Shlowmo, and Disney joined in just as I had my fill and started getting ready for the next stretch.
I waved on and the trail turned upwards. Pushing long and up I followed passing only Thomas who I met a few days back, who was sitting trailside waiting out the heat. I pushed to the top of the climb and plopped down for a late lunch. Soon JustMatt caught up and we hiked the next few miles together chatting on just as a beautiful view of Mt Shasta covered in clouds slapped us in the face. We staired in woulder.
Soon JustMatt was off to get to the hightway before dark and I decended the filan miles to camp. I paused for a moment, only for waterbefore bumping into Shlowmo and Zero again. We chatted on as the final bit of golden hour was upon us and we all looked at the forest in appreciation. I found my stop, set up and , ate dinner, and clambered inside my tent hiding from Mosquitoes. I instantly noticed how warm it was once I stopped moving and knew it wcould be a hard nights sleep. All the same id take as much rest as I could!
Hiker Profile:
Disney – Early 20s from Seattle. She started her journey from Kennedy Meadows south and hiked through the Sierras until Kearsarge Pass where she exited from effects of exhaustion from altitude sickness. She got back on in Mammoth and has been trekking ever since until her family picker her up at the OR/WA boader where she plans to go with her family to Disneyland for a vacation. She works in the Software tech industry and is thinking of going back to school for Law. Perhaps shell become a DA one day, changing the law for the better hopefully.
I woke early to the alarm doing its thing. I was groggy and never even heard the first one. I turned it off and sorted out that I was half way up Red Mountain where I had hiked the night before in hopes to get cell signal, but to no avaeil. I did the morning routine and was soon on my feet padding down the trail.
I was like a slug this morning. Not in any hurry, and just taking my sweet time winding through the mountains. Pretty flowers lines the trail and soon I found brigth red berries! They looked great but I dare not eat them. I was hoping for more recognizable berries in Washington to be ride and ready by time I got there!
I rounded a corner and views of Mt Shasta slapped me in the face! I expected it to be pure snowcapped, but it seemed like this season it shown some of the rock veins running all the way to its peak. I plopped for an early break and gazed on.
Once again I was up and trodding down the trail. I kept leep frogging with a tro group. Id pass them for some miles, then I would stop for a break and they would pass me right back. After the 3rd or 4th time it just became comical. I soon stopped for water and found a gang of hikers piling up. The Trio, Fuji and Jupiter, and Just Matt. I had met Just Matt the day before, but as we filtered water it was our first time to actually chat. We went n at length about work ideals and what we were doing here. He seemed to be in the same “I quite my job for the PCT” crowd as me. It felt nice to find the few kinsmen out here with me.
I pressed on and was lost in the twisting trail for the next few miles. I would pop out to a beautiful vista of peaks in the distance all covered in pines, then the next minute be walking through vined lines paths twisting through the forest.
After a final water stop, I filled up and decided I would press the remaining 9 miles to my camp and water. My feet had started to hurt, and several times in the day I forced myself to stop and tke my shoes off. I had 2 hot spots (starting of what could become a blister) on the pads of my feet. It was strange that this would happen now so far into the hike. The light began to become golden and hide in the north/south canyons.
I turned a corner and a brown deer on the trail bolted diwn just a few feet below looking at my inquisitively, not scared enough to full run. I walked on and pressed the final miles to camp at Butcher Knife Creek. Soon as I walked in I saw Tank and Opa, 2 friends I last saw in Tuolumne while waiting on 2 packages that never came. We chatted on and caught up as the light faded. I soon saif my goodnights and grabbed water and went through the nightly routine. My tent was just near the creek and I could hear the water rushing on. It really wasnt a bad spot, and definitly a good way to end a day!
Hiker Profile:
Just matt – Early 30s, from Berkley CA. He worked as a Copy writer for a marketing agency. He would help choose the words in an add, website, magazine, you name it. His girlfriend of 4 years is back home holding down the fort. His father died some years back just before retiring and he watched his unrealized dreams for retirement never given the chance to happen. He decided this wasnt goign to happen to him and you only have one file to live. He cashed in his 401k and helps pay for rent on his apartment and his trip on the PCT. Sometimes it just calls you. Tall and lanky he zooms up the trail and has dabbled in running, it seems to suite him and help his trail game!
I woke early as usual and got moving. The barking dogs of the night didnt keep me awake, but when I did get up my sleeping bag was wet. I wasnt sure if it was sweat or humidity, but its wasnt a great feeling. Coffe in one hand and a PopTart in the other I hiked the trail through the spider web of forest roads in the area.
The night before I began to feel a little heal pain right foot and it persisted today. Since pushing from Tahoe and the change of terrain, all these new little aches and pains have crept up on me. I try my best to just hike through telling myself its just adjusting to the new rythm. I be beopped through the twisting trail and I could soon hear the 18 wheelers roar on hwy 89. I was getting closer to the State Park, and the Falls.
Soon after crossing the road I entered State land and kept on trekking until I found the turnoff to the Falls. To my surprise Fugi and Jupiter were still there about to head on after checking out the natural wounder. I had a resupply box at the General Store and had to walk in. I said goodbye and headed towards the store.
Soon I saw BearCan who had already been there for an hour and told me the store was closed until their power was restored. Gah! He was on his way out and I waved on as I walked the last steps the store. I looked left and I saw n other than Ladybug himself! He was sitting with his girflriend Camiel and friend Connor. We chatted on and caught up since we hadnt seen each other since Tuolumne.
I grabbed my box from the store after sweettalking the lady glairing at me from behind the CLOSED sign. Afterwards I chilled with Ladybug and crew. Noon rolled around and I realized I had been there for 3 hours, and with a full resupply it was time to get up trail! I said my goodbyes and headed out.
Soon after winding through the woods I crossed a huge dam that was fed by Lake Britton, just north of the falls. I took in the views and pressed on. Soon I found a ridge and my next water source. There was a group of hikers hunkered down underneith, hiding from the hot sun. I grabbed water and pushed on, not wanting to waste any more time.
Soon I met Sweep, who had a harroling tale about his pack getting stolen at the Old Station Fill Up. I felt bad for the guy, and it was such a bizzar occurance, you almost dont know what to say to it. WE pressed on and chatted on for a bit about the trail and what we did in the default world. Soon we found the next water source and Thomas rolled in with a few other hikers follwing behind him.
We all chatted on and soon let out for the next water source, Thomas and I hiked together and chatted on about climbing and what life would hold post PCT. Its always interesting to hear peoples thoughts on what will happen after.
After filtering from the next stagnant pond I then pressed on alone. The golden hour was upon me and I loved this time of day. I trekked until finally emmerging to an open view clearly seeing Mt Shasta in all its glory! Pilgram, Mouse, and JustMatt were hanging out taking it in. WE chatted and I finally pressed the last 2 miles to camp that I set up as the last onces of light from the sun faded from the sky. Another great day, padding on the trail!
Hiker Profile:
Sweep, 30s, from Florida. He was a contractor working in construction before coming to the PCT. He had a Gregory pack and had everything dialed in before stopping off in Old Station. He put his pack down onthe picknick tables out back to go inside just for as minute. Soon a car with 3 people pulled up and they scoped out his pack one at a time before the last one grabbed it and they jumped back in making a speedy getaway. Sweep had missed them by moments, and when he realized what happened, was devistated. He said “I felt like I wanted to Cry and Puke at the same time” I felt for the guy. He hitched into Reading and went to an Outdoors store where he dropped 1500 getting new gear. To top it all off he had just gone through a breakup with his gf just 2 weeks ago after not being able to make the long distance work. He in the midst of trying to forgive and forget, putting the whole thing behind him and moving on.
Suppliment Suggestions: Glucosamine, glutamine, multi vitamin, branch chain amino acids.
Thomas: 20s, from Columbus Ohio. Paint cars for a living and wants to get into climbing. He hiked the AT in 2015, the PCT up to Lake Taho in 2016 (had to come off trail after a shoulder injury), and is now back in 2018 to finish the PCT from Tahoe to Canada. He feels like his people are out west and all outdoorsey. Not many people in Ohio have his lifestyle or knack for trekking, so post PCT hell be looking for a new home.
In the morning I woke and got moving. Packing up and taking in the sunrise I looked over to see BearCan also up and getting ready. After going through the morning routine I let out first and said goodbye.
The weather was perfect and the open planes were welcoming sight. The sage brush and manzanita lined the trail as it skirted the Hat Rim, just on the edge overlooking the Lava valley below. I pressed on for a few miles before BearCan came barrelling through! He was on a mission and I wasnt about to get in his way. I was easily mozing along taking in the wildflowers, the ladybug like beatles, the bugs, and of course Mount Shasta in the distance seemingly covered in smoke. It was fire season after all.
After trekking for some miles on the rim i passed a few roads. One of which was supposed to have a large water tank (Cache 22). After walking up to the large tank, I noticed it was empty. It wasnt later until I found out there was a smaller tank for hikers to use.
t had already started getting pretty warm and I started calculating the distance and time to the next creek. There was 13 miles and I had about 1.5 liters. I would have to do and I set out back hooving away at the trail. A few miles later I met a trio hiding in the shade and they got up to hike as oon as I passed by. I hadnt seen anyone all day and greeted them accordingly. A little while later I found myself a nice shady juniper tree overlooking the valley below and took a break of my own!
It was hot, around 100 degrees but I had to eat something to keep my body firing on all cylinders. I stupped some crackers and gummy worms down my gullet and sipped on the warm water in my bottles. It wouldnt be long before it felt as though it were boiling. I finish up and dropped into the valley pressing hard and trying not to theink fo the heat. Open grass meadows with yellow grass and trees springing up were all around with lava rocks to boot.
The next few miles dragged on, but funally I came to the creek I most despriratly needed to keep me goign. The water was cool and the 3 fellas I saw earlier were breaking nearby. I chatted with them again and finally pressed on. The scenery totally changed and I was in this lysh Oasis. There were lakes with life abound: birds, squirrel, geese, pelecans, it was all around!
After taking in the scenery I trekked on through the trees until coming to Berny Ranch turnoff where BearCan and myself planned to meet. I pulled in and saw Fuji and her boyfriend who had some from Holland to trel with her for some time. We caught up before I went and checked out the Ranch. There was lemonade, burritoes, showers, laundry, and a store to resuppply. I got clean, did some laundry and stuffed myself before deciding I sitll needed a few miles before sleeping.
BearCan and I pushed out tpgether after charging our battery packs as far as we could in the time we had. We trekked the next few miles as the sun set, and after I got my 30 miles done I set up camp. Bearcan had bigger plans and decided to press a few more before calling it quites. We said goodbye, hopefully ill see him again before all this is over!
Hiker Profile:
BearCan (Vincent) 22, From Montreal Canada, he is a huge foodie, even goes as far to listen to podcasts about food during the day (dangerous move out here haha). He studies Political Science and has taken a break to hike the PCT. When he goes back to Canada he plans to immerse himself in some food oriented courses which will drive him towards his passion. Hes a native French speaker, short in stature to the average, but is a ball of energy, hikes fast, and has a great sense of humor. Always cracking jokes and has a good time, but is very serious about his hiking and pushing himself to meet his finish goal date.
After the hard mental day I had the day before. I needed a win. And of course, the trail provides. The day started out simple enough and the grade was a cool rolling chillfest compared to the last few days and I really needed it.
I glided along in the morning light before finally coming to a large burn area. I am not sure why, but it seemed to be more deer travel than foot travel! I trekked on and it reminded me of some trails in arizona, a little bit of home to cheer me up. I looked up and saw a healthy deers bounding along headed away from me. I soon passed a nice big lake where I grabbed water from the next few miles.
There seemed to be almost no one out. I only ever saw 2 day hikers on the trail and bearCan was somewhere behind me enjoying a slow morning. The burn area soon turned to pines and manzanita and I plopped down for a quick break. Cool whisper of wind through the pine tops was so welcoming and I enjoyed every minute of it.
I pressed the next few miles through the froest and soon I could hear Hat Creek in the distance. I was fine on water, but for some reason the creek sounded so inviting and cool that it made my mouth dry. I soon arived at its banks and plopped down for lunch just as BearCan pulled up.
We chatted on and chilled out before pushing the last 7 miles to Old station. There we grabbed a nice lunch from JJ’s including a tasty burger and a cold beer. Grabbing some food from the gas station would hold us for the next few days and we pushed out for the next ridge.
It wasnt long before we had gained a large plateau that overlooked the valley. It seemed that as soon as we did the fireworks went on display. The sunset was incredible! We found a great spot just on the edge of the cliff and took it in as we ate dinner and watched the sun dissapear behind the moutnains. What a way to end a much needed great day!
Quite. This was the first day since I set foot on the trail that the idea entered my mind. It was like a small mouse that finally found himslef in the cleanest house on the block with an all you can eat buffet on the dining room table. It all started with a last alarm and setting off from camp half past 6am.
BearCan and I had just hit the halfway point the night before and were determined to get pretty far into the Lasson NP. The goal was 34 miles. I set out as usual, and the day before I had sent a message out to friends to send me some music (as I had none and hadnt listened to any on trail to this point) just to have some motivation when the batteries ran down. After finagling for some lengthy time, I got it to work and put on some of the new tunes. In trekking down the hill we went through a tree cutting area. I got to meet one of the guys, who asked me about the PCT in passing and he laughed when he heard about people dropping out in the first 2 weeks. His name was TearSow, and his hard working stature, face covered in sweat and wood chips made me think of what hard work it takes to do such a job. I could have put an American flag behind him and he would have been a perfect poster for some working man’s magazine. After chatting I said goodbye to him and his black and white dog and headed down the trail.
The music was nice for a bit, but I felt like my mojo had run out. I just didnt have the push, the drive as usual. I tried to call some friends when I had signal, quite a few no answers. It seemed like a lot of little things that didnt matter were adding up. Somewhere between the strange headspace and th 8 back to back long miled days my body finally said no. It didnt want to go, my legs hurt, my feet hurt (later I though of the scene in Happy Gilmore where Ben Stiller was being abusive to the grandmothers nitting blankets), and I started mulling all the reasons I was out here over in my head. I thought about being tired, and the heat, the cicadas song reminding me it was hot, and my head pounding. I thought about Arizona, and red rocks, climbing, hanging out with friends and family, cooking a real meal, ice cold drink in my hand and just relaxing in a hammock, going to spend time with my girlfriend. It was not a great place to be, and on top of it I had a splitting headache. I had been chugging water, thinking it was dehydration, but no avail. Just quite . . . I heard the whisper again.
I stopped for a break under a bridge with BearCan and 2 others. I noticed how snappy I was, just very irritable. I trekked the next 5 solo, and tried to enjoy the views. I went right back to negative town, and finally I thought about just going home. It was a wierd head space to be in, and finally after reaching the next spring, making some food and chugging water and some vitimin I, I finally started coming back to life. I then started thinking about how long I had longed for the chance to be out here on the PCT. How this was my one and only chance to complete it, how I would have to try an explain my reasons for stopping early, how I could be at work right now still just dreaming of being out here in raw gorgeous nature.
BearCan let out and I finished my break with my shoes off. Finally I got up and started trekking like normal again. My feet still hurt a bit, but appreciating the views and the privilege I had to be out here finally pulled me back in the game. I put my gameface on, trekked the last beautiful hill towards camp that awaited up by a nice creek. We got there by 8pm, first time in a while since camp came so early. We enjoyed it, and were soon fed and in our bags, getting ready for the oncoming, well needed, slumber!
I woke early and packed up. Pocket Rocket was up in her tent putting her things away as I waved goodbye and walked out of camp. Still no BearCan (Vincnet). I trekked on and enjoyed the morning hike alone. I crossed the creek that I slept next to the night before and began the long grind up the mountain.
On the way I passed a fella named Macro who was sitting by a tree enjoying some coffee and going on about hiking in really late the night before. I said hello and twisted up the gain by the winding trail. Finally I popped out on top to find 3 tents near the Butte Mountain summit with sleeping hikers. They must have had a late night too as the sun must have been shinning on them for a half hour now. I went to the true peak, plopped down on a rock and had a snack. After a nice long break hikers finally began immerging onto the peak. Pocket Rocket, Macro, Patches, and Finally BearCan!
I was glad to see he made it fine and we all chatted on as we hiked to the next spring to get some ice cold tasty water. Apparently he had hiked just before my camp figured we would meet up the next day.
The next 7 miles to the next spring was a slog! Everyone dispersed and hiked their own pace, somehow I found myself in a stooper just slugging along. My legs were tired and I had zero energy. At one point my feet hurt so bad that I had to stop for 5 minutes just to rest them. I pressed on and finally arrived at the turnoff for the next spring. I dropped my bag and began to decend the 0.3 miles to water. It seemed so far in my mind. When I finally got there BearCan has lugged his pack down and was having lunch. We chatted, I grabbed water, and headed back to my pack for lunch. Soon Patches and Macro showed up and we all chatted on before I headed out for the long push to the half way monument!
Off BearCan and I went rolling through the hills and taking in the sights. After a few miles, from the side of the trail I heard “GoatMan!” I turned to see who it was, and it was HotBunz! Him and Bones were the two hikers did the 24 challenge and I hadnt seenhim since Casa De Luna! We caught up quickly and I said goodbye as I rushed along to catch up to BearCan. We I finally caught up we were on a good climb. The last big hill of the day. It was one heck of a haul and after some good huffing and puffing we saw Pocket rocket’s camp. Of course we stopped and chatted and she told of us her horrible DEET explosion in her pack and how half the things in there were melting. Ewww
We pressed on, and after 3.5 quick miles we finally founf the MidPoint Monument! It was a really awesome moment, and with a cracking of brews and opening of Doritoes we celebrated the milestone (literally). After signing the register we walked just 0.6 miles and found camp where Navagator (from South Africa) was camped. We joined on some nearby pads and soon after food and shooting the shit we were all in bed sleeping like babies!
Ive noticed the run ins with bear and deer have most definitly spiked in northern California. After settling into my sent I could hear something in the darkness fumbling around, cracking twings, and running away once scarred off. I was silly and had my food in my vestibule. I was so tired when I came to came and there were so many other hikers camped there, that I thought no bear would come close. I was wrong and assuredly would be better in the future.
I stirred at 12 and again at 2 and 4, hikers were waking up and packing up to leave. I was pretty surprised to see the sheer number of night hikers, I guess everyone has to get their miles their own way! I packed up and was soon trekking on the trail w coffee in hand. Not 0.2 miles later I found Vincent who was just finnishing his brekfast! He told me about his run in with undoubtedly the same bear I heard the night before.
It was time to move and I boogied on up the rest of the hill. Finally the forest gave way to long vistas and I could see some granite ourcroppings with ranges of pine covered mountains in all directions! I could even see some snow on a far peak to the north, I was curious if it was shasta, then hiked on. Twisting through the open brush covered terrain I finally made it to the dropoff towards Belden and started down. I saw Vincent and a few other hikers as I decended. The heat started to rise and by the time both Vincent and I got to the bottom, it was roasting!
On the walk into town, we saw this very cool tiny house, build on the back of an old ford. Big glass windows, hardwood floores, and a huge queen sized mattress pulled the whole thing together. It was pretty cool! Once we reached the resturant nd gneral store, we re-uped on food, grabbed some lunch and a beer for the road. After a quick nap and some time with our batteries plugged up, we were ready to go!
We pressed on, it was 5pm and we hoped to get 8 miles in before camp. The heat was on, and we were both determined to make good time! We trekked on, first just skirting the trail that followed the river, then finally turning north where the trail really started gaining quickly! It was on and we both were throwing the hammer down, keeping in sink step by step. The sun bore down on us fully and the humidity of the day didnt help. After a few miles Vincent pulled over and let me take the lead. I hit the Arizona button!
I keeped on pressing our same pace the whole way up the climb, in spite of the blistering heat. Sweaty as all het out I kept pushing, passing anyone I saw on trail. And after a while I didnt see Vincent. WE had already planned on a stopping point together, and Vincent is a strong hiker, so I didnt think twice and kept going in my groove. I trekked pn and up through the heat until finally I entered the protective canopy of the forest.
The temp cooled quickly and after grabbing some cool water by a creek flowing over the trail, I felt my heat lower. It felt good to trek solo and I rambled through the pretty woods. Ferns, moss, trees of all sorts, it really was a little slice of paradise! I kept trekking until finally I had reached my camp for the evening. I set up tent and waited for my friend. One German and 2 Polocs came into came, but no Vincent. I cooked dinner, stretched, and chatted with my new friends over dinner. Still no Vincent. I hope he didnt get sick on the hike up, or worst twist an ankle. I guess no sense in worrying until I see him next. Finslly in bed I dozed off, tired to the core, looking forward to another great day!
The day before was a late one, so i decided to delay my alarm until 5:20 (Woohoo really sleeping i haha). At 5:10 I heard a twig snap near my tent. I woke thinking that Vincent was up and starting to pack up. I looked over and there was no light or movement. I looked again and saw a large dark figure about 5 feet below Vincents tent. I raised up on one elbow to get a better look. As I did I realized it was a cinnimon collered bear about the size of Vincents tent.
The bear heard thesound from my sleeping pad as I raised up and looked right at me. As soon as he noticed me he tuked tail and ran. Whew, what a close one! Once Vincent woke up I told him about what happened and he was all smiles!
After the jolt of the morning, it was time to get going and there was 1 thing on Vincent and my minds, Feather River swimming hole! We were a short 13 miles that was mostly downhill to the river and we were excited to see what was boasted as one of the bet swimming holes on the trail. I pressed on from camp having bye and started my assault on the downhill.
As I twisted and winded through the forest, I began to smell a very aromatic flower that reminded me of a magnolia. I searched to mind no tree, but ever time I smelled it, I would find a bush that looked much like an Azalea bush. I took note and some pictures before hiking on.
The heat started to rise as I decended towards the river. I could hear the Cicadas song of summer started up and I knew it was getting got. I twisted and winded and finally a large bridge spanning the river came into view and soon saw 4 or 5 hikers in the water below. I hiked over to the river bank, dropped my stuff and got in. What a treat!
This was so refreshing, the water wasnt too cold, the cliff jumping was awesome, and everyone was in high spirits! The group all hung out after the swim and had lunch. I did a little laundry, and enjoyed the break in the sun. Unfortunatly, it was time to pay the pipper.
We had decended to 2900 feet to get to the river. The climb on the other side would bring us to 5800 feet. Of course it was the hottest part of the day to boot! I finished lunch, packed up, and was soon huffing it up the trail. Big up, little down, and a big up twisted me through the woods. The humidity was up and I was sweating like no tomorrow. When I finally stopped for water it was a welcome break. Slippy (Az) and OneStep (UK) were there and we chatted on about Arizona and the AZT.
Once again I pressed on further into the pine forest, which with the gain came a little cool air for relief. The views opened up and we soon came to lookout rock. Most of the guys were headed to a trail Angels Cabin. Vincent and myself had another 10 miles to go and it was already 5pm! Although gorgeous, the miles werent going to hike themselves!
I pressed on, and after winding through the woods solo I popped out to a road wherer I had just missed some trail magic. Darn! I pressed on and soon found the Rolling Stoned group (large group of 12ish hikers that rolled together) and reunited caught up for a minute. Looking at the sky and the fading light, I said my goodbyes and pushed the last 2 miles before camp.
I was most definitly the last to roll into camp and there were not many spots. Apparently this was the most popular camp in the woods! After a good long 15 hr day, I was tired and didnt care where I slept. I found a spot, plopped down, made dinner, stretched a little, and crawled my beat butt in bed. Tomorrow is another day, and the miles can wait until then =)
I was stirred from my sleep. It ws midnight and I was warm. I tossed and turned. My head was aching and I chugged water thinking it was from dehydration. I layed back down and still, no sleep. After finally taking some IBuprofin and stairing up at te stars, I coaxed myself back to sleep. The 5am alarm blasted as if it were just 5 minutes later.
I felt grogy, but fought through to get the morning routine complete. I saw Hillbilly hike by as I was finishing up, and soon after I was on the trail. I hiked up and on, taking in the views and noticing everything was muted by a thick overcast sky. Despite this, the neon green moss popped as though the pines were wearing fancy diner jackets. I trekked on, soon finding Hillbilly, and then Vincent. Vincent was packing up and LadysFirst went zooming by with a huge smile, talking about having a record day. We waved him on and I set off after chatting.
You were either deep in the wood, or out on a hilltop. I zigzagged through the woods solo, trying to enjoy it. Somewhere in me was sluggish, either from the lack of sleep or the overcast day that begged a melloncolly attitude. I trekked on, soon after stopping for water at Little Jamison Spring I saw Vincent, 2 othersw, and finally Hillbilly. We all chated on, I complained about being a slug, then threw my pack on and hiked out after the crew.
It was a pretty solo hike from here, twisting and turning through the pine forest. Wild flowers, downed trees, birds out to play, it was all in the mix. And then . . . it rained. Or sprinkled at least! It was a welcomed change, id rather have rain then overcast all day. I hiked on pressing up the hills, it seemed to be a lot of up/down for supposedly being “easy”. I ained a big hill to find Bryan, a hiker that I met in Sierra City the day before, all set up for camp just hanging out. I said hello and we chatted a bit as I plopped down and had a final break before my last push to camp. He told me about his time in culinary school, and how he loved to cook.
After I was done with my snacks, I knew the 7 miles I had left were not going to wait on me as the light faded and I pressed on. I twisted and winded through the forest, popping out onto a large open ridge taking in the sight before being swallowed by the forest again. I padded on, feet against the nice trail until I popped out at a road, seeing a brown Jeep and Vincent sitting nearby. “Hey man!” I esclaimed, and we caught up as the 2 guys in the Jeep offered me a beer. I took it happily and we all chatted.
It wasnt long and we were off again. Vincent an I trekke the remaining 2 miles to Alder Spring, set up camp, and stretched before dinner. There was a fire going by a section hiker named Billy D and a few of us gathered around as the last spirts of light faded from the sky. I crawled into my tent, beat and tired, ready for sleep!
Hiker Profile: Bryan – Early 20s, from Salem Oregon. He got a late start in the desert and had regular 100 degree days. He decided to skip ahead to Kennedy Meadows South and has been trekking on ever since. He was trained as a cook and has been wokring his way up from the bottom, hoping to one day have his own food truck. If he were home, he would cook the following meal for his mom: Appetizer: Guac & Chips, 1st Course: Mushroom risotto and Grilled asparagus, 2nd course: BBQ ribs, Dessert: Strawberry Milkshake. It sounded like heaven on earth to me!
I woke early as usual and got moving. I loved the early morning starts. Something about being on the trail alone with little sound except the forest waking up and enjoying all the ways the suns light played off the landscape was awesome. Today was no different and i decended the large ridge I had gained the night before.
Down down down I went until I could hear the sound of a rushing river draw near. I continued to hike down and the creek just became louder. The canyon I was decending into was lush with undergrowth. Pines, bushes, ferns, the list went on and it seemed as though it was a nestled away little haven. It reminded my of Crabtree Falls VA.
As I hiked through the tranquil canyon, a hum of engine broke the peacefullness. At first I couldnt tell if it was cutting trees or clearing rocks. Once I was near enough the unmistakable sounds of a bucket grating rocks becme distinct. I trekked on quickly and was soonin the shaded veil of the mountain, listening to the road far below. I continued to decend the canyon and the canopy shaded me until I came to a bridge far above a rushing river. I could see it cascading downand a large group of hikers were by its banks hanging out. I had no time to chill, so I pressed on to the road ad was soon walking towards town with my thumb out.
A nice woman with 2 dogs picked me up and dropped me in the city center. I thanked her and soon was enveloped in having breakfast, greeting friends I hadnt seen in weeks, and finding my resupply box in the bck of the general store. I sat outside catching up and chatting on (Downward dog, Weezer, Napolean, Hillbilly, Matt (Trail Dale), The Muffin Man, both new and old friends were there) as I went through my chores. I had set a time to be leaving down . . . it expired. I set a later time . . . like hitting the snooze button I deferred it again. Once 2pm rolled around I knew that if I didnt get out I would be trapped! I gathered my bag and my Hiker 2 Trail sign and stood by the road.
Soon the gal that ran the coffee shop in the summer picked me up nd dropped me at trail. It was time to move and the gain was certainly hardy! It took off up through tree covered switchbacks for some mies before opening up to a manzanita grove and switchbacked under the open sun. Soon I caught MotherHen, Calisi, and SpiritKick all trekking up the hill. We said hello and after some good sweat all met the ridge. I stopped to chat and after a short break I took off down the hill towards camp.
I paused at a creek for water and continued to pad down the beautiful hillside until a small horse camp came into sight. Hillbilly and Bearcan (as I started calling a new friend Vincient that I met in town because he still has his bear can) were set up at a table and informed me the price to stay was 24$. Holy wow! All three of us decided to push on and soon after some quarter of a mile I found a sutable spot. I was almost 9 already and I was way behind getting camp set up. Finally the tent was up, food in my belly, and soon snuggled in by bag waiting for sleep to take over!
I woke feeling pretty well despite the 3 alarms I silenced to get a little more sleep. I packed up quickly and was moving on the trail before 6. My pack was on the 3rd day of resupply, so it felt light as a feather. I cranked on, watching the golden light spill through the trees.
Birds “danced” in the trail in front of me. I say danced in the nicest way to say copulating. I chuckled a bit and kept hiking on. I could hear the roar of the interstate as I neared it. Even at this early hour, cars and 18 wheelers rumbed past. The PCT went under the Interstate through some nicely layed tunnels and I soon popped out on the other side.
The morning was my most favorite time, not many hikers out, the golden hour is on, and you can usually see some cool wildlife. I kept on trekking pausing for a moment as a guy named Goldie came walking by with his phone playing music audibly. I hiked on closer, thinking he was changing songs, before finally I recognized the tune and realized he wasnt listening to music, he was watching Star Wars. I laughed out loud and asked him. He admitted it proudly and I passed him, leaving him to his movie.
Soon after cranking down on a good pace I started decending a hill through the pine forest and I happened upon 2Plated and Condo, a british couple I hadnt seen since the desert! We chatted on and carried on down the trail to keep the mosquitoes from feasting on us. After stopping for water I bid them farewell and hiked on.
The next section was a constant swap between flower covered mountain sides, pine forest, and ridge top vistas. I couldnt be more happy and a few of the vistas reminded me of trekking on the AT in Virginia.
I rolled on through and soon stopped at a creek to fill water. There were a few other hikers around commenting about a 10 mile stretch without water. I thought back to the days of the desert and knew northern cali could be just the same. After saying goobye I pressed on through the thick green woods an again twisted and turned through the valleys and mountains.
Finally after grabbing water under a vehicle bridge near the Jackson Meadow Campground I started to gain the last ridge before my final stop. I could see Jackson Meadows Resivoir from the ridge and enjoyed the vista. I soon met a nice fella from North Carolina named Hillbilly. He was really chatty and very nice. He went on about how he had trekked the AT in ’99 and how much he has been enjoying the PCT. Especially all the great trail magic that he was so fortunate to come upon!
We pressed the final ridge together, and I soon found an overlook with the perfect pad for my tent. Hillbilly took off towards his own site and left me to set up, cook, stretch, and crawl my tired butt into my tent. What a great day! Just a few more miles to Sierra City and a whole new bag of food!
Hiker Profile: Condo (Wayne) + 2Plates (Danielle) a british couple in the mid 40s who after mutiple trips to the states doing road trips and hiking treks, they decided to set their sights a little bigger. Having been all over the west and dabbled in the east they settled on the PCT to test themselves. 2plates was an elementary school teacher, and Condo was a Controls Engineer for a contracting company. Both deciding life is to short to be wasted sitting around have made the best of it, sold their house in 2010 and have been creating experiences for themselves ever since!
The alarm blasted and it was time to move. I stood from my tent to see the first glimpses of light across Lake Tahoe. It was lite up in orange from the light and reflected it full on. An awesome view to wake up to, and I hoped the rest of the day would yield the same.
As I packed up and trekked out of camp I was greated by the flowers the seemed to follow me all day. The wildflowers, yellow, red, whoite, orange, speckled the fields through which the trail cut. The tall pines continued to tower above and I pressed on up and through the ridgeline. You could see for miles, the Lake below and the mountains ahead, it was really a sight to see.
I soon happened upon Nightwalker who was just standing after packing up his bag. I said hello recognizing him from North Kennedy Meadows and we chatted for a bit as we both let out on the ridgeline. We chatted on and took in the views. Soon I came across the first of 3 skiing areas I would find that day. The lifts stayed still in their dormant state. I trekked on and soon after plumitting down the backside of a hill I began to run into Flip Flop PCTers. I was amazed at how many I bumped into. I counted 7 in a 30 minute stretch. That coupled with all the new faces I had not yet met made an impression on the sheer number of PCTers I found on trail that day.
I kept pressing on, through the wood, and across the mountains. Soon I knew I would find Truckee and towards the end of a long day I crossed highway 40 where I met Stitches, chilling by the road waiting on friends. We chatted for a bit and I debated on going to a Ski Resort for some dinner. Deciding the mile were a little more important than more money spent on cold brew and a meal, I pressed on. The granit in this area was so interesting and I thought about climbing it. I turned a corner and saw 2 climbers, roped up and simuling a chill fun looking climb! I said my hellos and chatted in passing. How I missed pulling on rock. Besides people back home, I missed climbing most.
I pressed on soon finding a stagnant lake that I filtered from. Only a few miles left before camp I trekked on admiring the Granit faces nearby and dreamed on about climbing. I rounded a corner and soon found a nice little flat spot where I pitched my tent and started up dinner. It was a long day, but a good one. I hoped tomorrow would bring the same!
Hiker Profile:
Nightwalker, From Grass Valley CA, hiked a 160 mile section of the PCT in 2017. Now hes back to take on the full thing. Post PCT, he plans to go to Japan for a 750 mile trail. Just celebrating his birthday in South Lake Tahoe he has been enjoying seeing family and friends as this is his stomping grounds. He treks with a light pack and fast. His stride is short like mine, but he takes it on with a pizzaz that makes him fly across the landscape.
The alarm becconed, and after silencing it twice I rose. I went through the morning routine, all the while fighting off the inesscent mosquitoes. I finally stood, breakfast in had, pack on my pack, ready for trail. I waved goodbye to Dragon who I met the day before and took my leave. I started up the hill and soon found the trail gained the back side of a large ridge.
The sights were awesome from the top, I could see the mountains in the distance and all the valleys harboring their alpine lakes. I trekked on taking in the views and soon passed over Dicks Pass. Dropping like a rock I descended, until skirting Dicks Lake and soon re-entering the lush forest. The trail twisted and winded through the woods and sometimes would give way to views of granite gradure.
I only passed 2 Tahoe Rim Trail hikers in the morning, and I was happy to accept the solo hiking. I trekked on through the twisting woods before 3 ultralight guys gained and passed me. I plopped down for a nice break overlooking Velma Lakes and admired the views. Before long I pulled my shoes back on and was soon padding down the trail again.
This was the story of the day. I would trek for a few hours, until my feet cried like dtired dogs, and I would give them a break and snack on. Soon throwing my slightly lighter pack back on and padding once again down the dirt trail. At one such break I met Guru, who was from Portland OR. He was married and she came out to visit a time or two. Today was his first chance in some time to press on beyond 25 miles since the desert. He was lanky and had a bounding gate, it was easy to see he could crank out some speed if he so desired. We chatted on for a bit before finally I grabbed my bag and pressed on.
The forest began to show signs of moss as it began to appear on the huge pines. I couldnt help but admire it, and soon with the backdrop of Lake Tahoe, the views seem to demand respect! I walked in awe for the next few miles, taking in all its beauty as the sun began to drop to its golden hour. Guru’s gang seemed to stop short after finding a nice campsite, but I wanted the rudge, and pressed on for it. The gain became hardy and the switchbacks kicked my view back and forth giving ne some pretty awesome vistas. I finally gained the ridge, and tired from the long day, went through the routine of making camp, cooking, and stretching my tired body. It was a good long day, undoubtedly tomorrow woukd bring the same. Or at least I hoped!
Izzie arrived on Saturday afternoon after a long 9 hour drive from Utah. We then spent the next week trekking around the Desolation Wilderness, and the Lake Tahoe. Fireworks from Tallac, kayaking to Roubicon Point, SUPing to Fannette Island in Emerald Bay, Backpacking to Eagle Lake, Velma Lakes, and Fallen Leaf Lake, it was a good week.
I said my goodbyes as she dropped me off at the trailhead where I would once again get back onto the PCT. It had been a week since I put footsteps on the dirt trail and I greeted it like an old friend. Pack heavy with a full resupply I trekked on. Within a mile I came the the highway 50 crossing. Cars zoomed by at great spead and I bided my time until finally I found my break and soon found myself back in the protection of the forest and the padded trail.
The trees and lush brush welcomed me in open arms and after some quick work I found myself at the trailhead for Echo Lake. There was a store and an abundance of hikers and boaters. I grabbed some last minute provisions and got on my way.
There were tons of day hikers and Taho Rim Trail backpackers all on the trail. It was alarming to the point of overwhelming with the numberof people I ran into. After pressing on to some serine lake views I calmed back into the rythm of padding my feet on the trail and went to work. The views were grand and the lakes just kept on coming. Lower Echo, Upper Echo, Aloha, Heather Lake, Susie lake, and finally Gilmore Lake where I would stay for the night.
n the trail just befor Gilmore I met Dirt, who was a flip flop hiker. He bailed from the Sierras, got a hitch to Oregon, then started hiking south. Once he reaches the town of Indepandance, he plans of hitching again and finishing his hike from Oregon to the Canadian boarder. We chatted for a while and went on about northern California and what I had ahead of me.
I pressed on until seeing the golden hour begin and decided to stop at Gilmore Lake to rest for the night. I et Dragon, who was a retired Powerplant worker, was our here to enjoy the long haul. He too had a long layover in South Lake Tahoe and was excited to get his feet back on trail. I set up my tent, stretchedm, ate, sipped a beer from the Echo Lake store and setted in for the night. Its time to push some miles, only thing between me and the Canadian boarder is the limit of how fast my feet can carry me.
Hiker Profile:
Dirt: A flit flop hiker from Michigan. He has a good 1500 miles under his belt and as soon as the Sierras is done, will be headed back northbound. Very nice guy, welcoming chat and loving the trail. Were getting close to that 50% mark and its strange to chat with theoe remaining hoping to press to the finish.
I woke early, not to an alarm, but just to the sound of birds chirping away in the trees around me. I didnt have to move, but I was excited to get to town and get all my chores done. I went through the usual morning routine and was soon on my feet chatting with Quill for a moment before pressing on.
She planned on just going in to Tahoe for a day and coming right back out after resupplying and sending some food forwards. I on the other hand was meeting Izzie and some other friends through the week and wouldnt be getting back on trail for a whole 6 days. It would be a good break, and seeing I was almost 50% complete with the trail miles, I though it would be appropriate.
The morning was beautiful and the light poured through the green pines. This was one of my favorite things. The golden hour as sun rose and set, something about this time was just magical. The mornings were typically still and filled with chirping birds and the only real sound of russling was my feet on the trail. I trekked through, decending from camp towards the trailhead where I hoped to hitch.
I soon happened upon Lorax and Firefly who were on the same mission. We chatted on and I found out that they had met the year previous on the AT and were hoping to be tripple crowners . We all exited the trail and walked out to the highway where we threw out out thumbs and hoped for the best. Quill soon joined us and we all tried our best not to look too grungy.
After 20 minutes of trying, simultaneously 2 cars pulled over and we all piled in. Jason was Quill and I’s newly found friend and he chatted on about Tahoe, his work, and his return from a month long vacation in Germany. A super nice guy, he dropped us both off and waked as he took his leave. It was chore time and I sat at a Dennys recalling the last few days and making my plan for the week t come. I was pretty excited to explore the area with Izzie, and find my way into a new pair of shoes and a new sleeping pad!
We were just 12 miles from Carson Pass, and Hamms, BandiLegs, and Jelly Bones planned on stopping here for resupply and meeting up with SilverFox who offered up his cabin to a bunch of us for the night. I planned to press on an additional 13 to Hwy50 where I would hitch to Tahoe and hopefully get some much needed gear replacement.
After another chill morning Jelly Bones and I hiked out together continuing the chat from the day before about where we were from, climbing interestes, family life, and what we hoped to achieve after the PCT. It was a really nice day, and before we both knew it day hikers started to come into sight. You can tell a day hiker by how clean they look and the way they smell (So fresh and so clean clean!!)
We soon got to Carson Pass where some free snacks and sodas awaited us at the Ranger Station. Everyone was smiles and we all took turns weighing ourselves on a provided scale. Having to press on I said goodbye to the crew and hiked out as they stayed behind attempting to get hitches into town.
I pressed on up the next ridge and after some good gain found a beautiful plateau and a lush green valley greeting me. As I hiked further I found day hikers, Tahoe Rim Trailers, and PCTers alike. They were all out the enjoy what the forest had to offer. I soon saw Quill after some miles just grinding on in her own little world. “Hello!” I exclaimed and we caught up from the last time we camped together and went on about how we were both ready to get our resupply, and a good coffee.
We pressed on at our own paces until finally dive bombing off the front side of the moutain we had just climbed which gave way to granit boulders and waterfalls. It was a cool spot and we both decided to call it home for the night. There were a few other hikers who trickled into the camp and after some dinner, stretching, and watching the light fade from the sky above Lake Tahoe, it was tome for bed. I crawled in my tent, and like a tranquelized beast, fell asleep.
I woke early, yet no one in seemed to be in a mood to get going. After pulling myself from my tent I could smell a campfire nearby. Hamms and Jelly Bones had started up a small one and everyone slothed towards it with breakfast in hand. Probablly one of the most chill mornings thus far!
After sitting around and playing the “would you rather” game for a while, I threw the final effects into my bag and was standing ready to rock and roll. I headed out strolling through the trees and winding through the trails. A good gain finally brouhgt me to a saddle overlooking a lush green valley ahead. I had no idea what to expect after the Sierras, but apparently, this was it!
I trekked on bopping around snow patches before Jelly Bones caught up with me. “Hey there brother!” pulling her best Hulk Hogan/Macho Man impression. Straight cracked me up, and we rolled on chatting about the trail and life back home.
Lakes were abundant and the creeks that flowwed across the trail were perfectly clear. We stopped for a snack after another climb and a pretty sick view ovwelooking the landscape to the east. Volcanic formations, pine forest, mountain lakes, and lush valleys were abundant. Other hikers trekked on by and we chatted about the Tahoe resupply plan.
We pressed on, winding through the forest and soon saw a road in the distance. On the other side of the road was a big tent and a nice man named Chipmonk manning the griddle. “Wahhhoooo” I let out a big woop. I hadnt seen trail magic since before the Sierras and a huge group of hiker were gathered, munching down on the charitable feast laid before them. Man it was nice: eggs, chili, bananas, cereal, orange juice, and piping hot coffee. I had no complaints and we stuff ourselves before thinking Chimpmonk profusively and pressing on.
Pressing on, playing leap frog with Bandilegs and Hamms we finally found a nice spot away from the mosquito invasion that started to rear its head again. Cowboy camping on a great view, we slept like logs before the dawn of day woke.
We woke and gathered our things headed back to Kennedy Meadows North Resort for some breakfast. I threw my clothes in the washer and headed in for breakfast. Something about it was really relaxed and laid back.
Happy and Chilibin joined me for the delicious breakfast and we chatted away. Once dinner was over I was on a mission to locate the shoes and sleeing pad that had been lost in the mail. Soon after sorting out the adulting, I made my way to the back porch and we all just hung out and relaxed. I was supposed to get back on trail, but I didnt really need to be anywhere in a hurry as Izzie would be meeting me in 5 days and 75 miles. Pretty chillin.
As people rolled in, and old crew I hiked with for some time started to trickle in. Silver Fox, Jelly Bones, Photon, Cool Runnings, and quite a few others gathered in. We caught up and chatted and the longer I sat, I knew I would hae to push out that night. There was an itch to go.
A decent group of us hitched: Hamms, BandieLegs, Jelly Bones, Cool Runnings, Photon and we hiked a mile into the trail, set up camp, and eventually crashed out.
Day 75: Wolf Creek
We all woke, going through the usual routines and were soon moving on trail. The day was pretty chill and the trail rolled on through the gorgeous landscape. Mountains in the distance, jagged rocks overlooking lushgreenvalleys, and the morning light doing its thing.
Jelly Bones and I trekked on together chatting as we went, catching up since I hadnt seen her since she got off trail for a film festival. We cruised on through the forest, crossing creeks as they came and twisting and winding through the forest. It was a nice day. After a good break with BandieLegs for lunch, we got moving pushing the rest of the miles, chatting away about our time on trail.
Before we knew it we rolled into camp where Hamms was setting up. Bandilegs rolled in behind and soon the Boyscouts 1&2 joined up. With a small fire rolling we all gathered around making our dinners and chatting away. Fires on trail have been few and far between, but when they come, they are a nice treat!
Soon as the light began to fade we all crawled into our respective tents and got cozy. It had been a really nice chill day on trail.
Book Reccomendation: Switched at Birth, this American life.
We woke on the side of the trail, cowboycamped, to one of the best sunrises I have seen on trail. What a beautiful sight. Happy popped his head up just a few feet above me and Trainwreck did the same from her nearby tent. We took our time getting going and it was nice to watch the sun come up in the distance.
It would be the last time we were above 10,000 feet and we took it in, savoring the experience. Once packed up we headed out, walking tediously across the snow patches that were frozen from the night air. We worked out way over to a saddle before finally bombing down towards Sonora Pass.
The rocks here reminded me of Arizona. All the galvanic rock and treeless rock faces reminded me of Humphries or parts of the Grand Canyon. Needless to say it was gorgeous. Trainwreck and I chatted on as we decended towards the pass. The trees made their appearance and creeks gurgles, cutting the trail and the snow patches. Soon we found ourselves at the trailhead with our thumbs out hoping for a ride down the hill.
After a bit we met Papperazi’s mom and friend who gave us a ride. I had chatted with him the day before and he let me know they would be waiting on them and might give his a ride if we were there on time. We arrived to Kennedy Meadows Resort to find showers, laundry, a general store, a restuaunt, a haven for hikers! After hanging out for the day and doing chores we made our way down the road to the campground where we crashed for the night.
Paperazzi: 30s from Sacramento Ca. He attempted to hike the PCT in 2016, after meeting a gal from Canada they ended up trekking together on the regular. During this time he was drinking regularly on trail and at any stops along the way. After coming to Kennedy Meadows North, he started hitching rather than hiking to the next stop. Bernie, to Shasta, drinking frequently along the way. Finally in Shasta he got a wakeup call to sobriety and after applying himself, has been so for 2 years now. Coming back in 2018 with his dad he is coming back to go after it again. His dad originally only wanted to do the JMT, and after hiking from the Mexican boarder, he came down with a case of bursitis at Agua Dulce, and had to come off trail. Then he rejoined Paperazzi in Kennedy Meadows South and hiked until Kennedy Meadows North through the Sierras. Paperazzi is an awesome guy, always in a great mood and happy to chat, his smile alone is as accepting as his personality.
New Zealand reccomendations from ChiliBin: Te Araroa, Lord of the Rings set, The Hobbit house, Skiing, Franz Joseph glacier, ect.
We woke down in the meadow, I could still hear the river crashing just a few hundred feet away. I looked up towards the netting of my tent, it was still covered with Mosquitoes, Crap!
We had no choice but to get ourselves moving. I packed as much things into my bag befoore exiting my tent. Wrapped like a mummy in clothes I broke my tent down and hurrily got on trail. Happy had already beat me to the punch and had let out from our camp 10 minutes before.
Despite the small annoying bugs, the morning was gorgeous. The golden light played off the trees and the river rolling through the bottom of the valley through which we were hiking. Slowly and surely after a few relaxing uphills we found ourselves at the bottom of Dorthy Lake. It was a beautiful sight, the snowcovered mountains surrounding like sentinals and the green lush grass boarding the lake was very welcoming. It was a little early for a dip so we kept on pushing up to Dorthy Lake Pass. Once again we took in the sihts to the valley ahead, speakled with lakes and just as beautiful as the last.
The trail was a bit sloppy, but after some careful footwork and a few creek crossings we found ourselves at a bridge. This marked the end of the mosquito attack and I saw Papperazi and his dad Freighttrain hanging out beneith a tree. We chatted for a bit before they took off, and soon Happy came rambling through. It was lunch time and after a while Oxygen Debt came through and we all enoyed a nice break together.
We hiked on, up through the valley towards the pass before bumping into Trainwreck. I let her borrow my batt pack and we all pressed up the large mountian towards camp. As we pressed on, all of the supdden I felt an icecold streak run down my head and neack. Happy had grabbed a snowball and crushed it on my head. It was on and we reverted to children having a snowball fight.
After taking a time our, we crawled up the rest of the pass and were impressed with all the surrounding views. We could see the Sieraas to the south and the outstretched mountains before us. We were at the end of the Sierras and it was almost sad to look back at their snowcapped peaks. The three of us pushed on and finally found camp at 10,800 ft. With light fading and not much choice, Happy and I cowboy camped on the trail while trainwreck set her tent up in the wind on a small bivy pad. A really gorgeous view put us to sleep and we all bundled up in the chilly wind of our trialcamp.
Oxygen Debt: 40s – from all over really, seemed very vague on his background but very nice. He graduated from Virginia Tech with a Bachelors degree in Physics, but seemed to have most recently been bumming it around the world seeing the sights. North of the artic circle, to Alaska, Virginia, Maryland, Washington, the list goes on. He also dabbled in some Irish dancing amongst what seemed to be one of his many mysterious skills. Happy and I couldnt get a true bead on the fella, but one the less enjoyed his company just the same.
There are 2 great motivations to keep moving on the PCT: 1) Long term, winter will set in with late September. 2) Short term, if you dont keep moving, you’ll starve. (if that doesnt work the mosquitoes north of Tuolumne Meadows will eat you alive!)
I woke next to Lake Benson, sleeping in late again and started my day. Quill who warned me she usually slept late was still snoozing in her tent as I packed up. By the time I had my pack on she was up, disturbed by the loud birds and couldnt keep alseep. I said my fairwells and pressed on headed back to the trail.
It wasnt half a mile before I heard a “Baaahhhhhh” in the distance, and I looked up. It was Happy! Somehow he had gotten turned around and went to the lake by mistake as he navigated his way in the morning light. He had camped just 2 miles before the lake and I was glad to see him. We chatted on before getting moving on the trail.
The trail was lush and green here, so lush there was moss and ferns began to spring up, where I handnt seen them for miles. It reminded me of the PNW a bit. We started gaining right away and I put it in low gear as I climbed. The morning light was gorgeous and I snapped pictures left and right. Soon I popped out at a beautiful lake. I paused for a moment to take it in and snackl a bit when the mosquitoes found me, and I was hard pressed to keep moving.
Soon Happy popped up over the pass and we continued on chatting away as we went. Through the emeral forest we hiked and gazing in the distance of the towering granit moutnains we appreciated the Sierras while they still lasted. Down into a valley we crossed lakes and streams, life was abundand, and so were the mosquitoes.
We were faced with another climb and pressed on, step after grueling step. Happy was having some shin splint issues and took his time, which was just fine by me as I was in no hurry. I waited for him at the pass, and reunited we bombed down the other side chattin on about our favorite shows and things we might watch if we were home
We nosedived down into the valley that housed Wilma Lake, fed by Falls Creek via Jack Main Canyon. We followed the creek up, and noticed it seemed to become almost marshy near the rolling creek. The mosquitoes started coming out in full force. I had never seen them this bad in my entire life and they stuck to us like moths to a flame. Soon after some miles of shooing and slapping away the preditors, we found our camp.
We set up tents and dove inside. They stuck to our bug nets by what seemed, the hundreds. It was crazy how adament they were. Both Happy and I were covered in bites from the miles of walking through their territory. Everything was done from the confines of our tents, and after food and stretching night fell and soon our heads with it.
Its leather, either boot or saddle. There is no other way.
I felt like sleeping in, so I did. I was up the night before hanging out with Happy, Feather, and our new backpacking friends Lisa and Mike. I hadnt been sleeping all that well the last few nights with my ever flattening pad so I decided and extra hour of rest wouldnt kill anyone.
By the time I woke Happy and Feather were long gone, so I was back to trekking solo. I meandered through the lush green forest, enjoying the trees and gurgling creeks with high rising granit in the background. Couldnt ask for a more scerene scene to have a morning walk through, and I enjoyed all the moments. I pulled over for a moment, and Noodle came bounding up. “Hey man!” he exclaimed with a huge smile.
I had met him in Tuolomn waiting on my package to arrive and he was a new found friend. We chatted on as we hiked throught the beautiful landscape. He went on about his last day or so on trail, his hiking partner Tank, and we chatted about the difference in personality types. How the majority of people are there just to enjoy nature and all it has to offer, with a n open mind. Not only to what may come, but alos in meeting other hikers along the way.
After crossing a few creeks together with some killer leaps of faith we had a quick break snacking up before he pressed on and I went back to enjoying my solo stroll. Soon after running into Trainwreck and chatting on with her I happenned upon happy sitting in a beautiful meadow just across a nice creek. I got my feet wet attempting to ford the creek, and soon after joining Happy, pulled off my shoes and socks and layed down having a nice short nap after some muchneeded snacking.
Afterwards we both got up and started pushing on and up towards the pass. Soon as we did Quill came into view. Our 2 man conga line had turned to three. We climbed towards Benson Pass, chatting as we went. Soon after NoBo and his lady joined our 3 man conga turned to 5, and like the little engine that could we slow and steady chugged up the hill towards the pass. The views were incredile, but unlike the passes before this one was almost devoi of snow. We soon gained the highest point and to celerate we all took a nice break. It was only moments before the mosquitoe were upon us, sucking on us like vampires.
We were soon up and we all pressed on. I cstarted chatting with quill first about the statistics of the people on trail. Then we turned to phylosiphy, ideaology, religeon, movies, books, personal hostry, all sorts of subjects. She most interesting enough believed the all the decisions we make are already pre determined by our genetic makeup and environmental influences. We went back and forth debating the idea to some length before we realized we had reached te overlook of Benson Lake.
We looked back, Happy and Cashew ( a fella we picked up at he pass) were nowhere in sight. We continued on, through the gorgeous green landscape before finally coming to rest at he lakes edge. This was our camp for the evening and we chatted on after eating our dinners and watching the last light of sun leave the sky. It was a good day, and id be sure to make the next one just as good (pre-determined or not!)
Hiker Profile:
Noodle – 27, Fun loving guy with a huge smile and always ready to laugh from Montana. He went to Montana Weastern and played strong safety for the football team throughout his time there.
Montana Reccomendations: Swan Mountain Range for hiking back backpacking some beautiful lakes. Bob Marshall Wilderness, climbing at the Chinese wall. Bozeman Canyon for ice climbing, Beartooth Mountains for all around adventure.
Wyoming Reccomendations: Sinks canyon, Shashony National Forest, Popogia Wilderness
Quill: 23 From San Diego CA. An aspiring wrighter, she tried her hand at Stuctural Engineering studies and decided they werent for her. She decided to take a break from accidemics and come hike the PCT. Afterwards she has no definit plans on where she will end up, but would like to persure her studies in environmental enginering or green engineering possibly from Oregon State. PLenty of miles to go before having to decided!
Jazz Recomendations: Lester young, Django Rhinhartd. Book reccomendations: Life after Life, Gone Girl.
The waiting game was strong! A car would deliver the mail around 1pm and then after an hour of sorting I found that there was once again no packages waiting for me. The nice thing was I got to chat and meet all the hikers rolling into Tuolumne Meadows. At the end of the day I had to get out so I decided to hike Lumbert Dome and I wasnt let down.
It was a great hike and after topping out and enjoying the views I returned to my campground, just to wait the next day.
Day 69: The Naked Mile
I packed up my bag and tent. I decided I couldnt wait anymore and whether my packages came or not I would leave. Going back from breakfast and getting my ressuply together, I hung out. Happy had returned from his side trip to Half Dome and we waiting as people rolled in. Soon Happy Feet, Fuji, and Silver Fox came strolling into town! I hadnt seen them in quite a while and it was a really nice treat! We chatted on and hung out, then finally I watched as the car brining the pakcages to the post office rolled up.
No luck, no shoes, no new sleepin pad. We said our goodbyes and Happy and myself rolled out of Tolumne. About half way to camp on the Summer Soulstice, which so just happened to be naked hiking day, we got in our Naked PCT Mile. Ill be honest, it was pretty invigorating just rolling without clothes enjoying total freedom.
After thowing clothes back on we pushed the rest of the way to our camp passing rushing waterfalls and gorgeous granit sights. We soon met Lisa and Mike, a couple of backpackers out for the weekend. We decided to camp togeher and got a nice fire rolloing just as Feather rolled through and joined. It was nice to be back on the trail after so much wait!
Huarache – 29 – From Vancoover Canada. Doing a shoeless hike throughout the PCT. Has a “Zero Drop”, “Zero cushion”, “Zero Arch Support” which pretty much means you are barefoot. His sandles are homemade and only give a little protection to the ground. Has been hiking without shoes for 8 years now, and has continued to trek that way ever since. He stubbed a toe in the first 2 weeks and even though it looks gnarly but doesnt hurt a bit. Usually sheds a layer of skin every once in a while, a new calouse grows and he just keeps on trekkin. Usually wears socks in the snow, and the hot desert air on new skin has been the worst injuries for him. Hes confident in finishing and is walking home!
Frost covered my tent, it was freezing cold! I got moving and my fingers were still witht the cold. Luckily I had found my gloves the night before, and I can only imagine that without them the pain would be much worse. I worked as quickly as I could and soon had my pack on, coffee in hand.
I waved goodbye to Tornado and let out. I climbed as I went, shaking off the cold of the morning in vein. This was the first time I had hiked out of camp with my leg baselayers on, and I was pretty happy that they were cozy. The views of the forest and the running creeks diverted my attention from the cold. The morning light shown through the trees and illuminated the trail.
Soon I stopped for water and to take off my leg baselayers. Snacking up as Tornado came into view. We chatted on for a bit, just before two JMTers arrived at the creek. We chatted with them as well before finally pressing on, up towards the pass. Snock patches lined the trail and after some rock hopping and log balancing the snowey pass came into sight.
I could feel the fatigue forom the night before as I climbed. The landscape was scattered with Marmots and not much of any other wildlife. Sitting ontop of the pass Tornado soon joined me. To the north we could see the valley that lead to Tuolumne and it was filled to the brim with tons of pine trees. Looking back the snowcapped moutnains of the Sierras staired back emotionless but seeming to long for our return.
I pressed on, down the switchbacks diving into Lyell Valley. The steps became steep and I passed JMTers left and right headed south. The look on their face wasnt much of pleasure as they hiked up the trail. Soon I hit the flat and for the next 8 miles just meandered through until finally reaching the Meadow. Day hikers started to appear and I knew I was close. Step after step I finally reached the Tuolumne Meadows Store. Happy, Ladybug, Sissyphus, Cowboy, and a group of other hikers were all hanging out front, eating and being merry!
I said hello, found my way to a burger, a cold beer, and finally camp just up the road. We all bantered on, and soon after making our way back, a nice group of hikers gathered around a warm fire, chatting on about our way of life and what brought us out. Up far past hiker midnight we all retired and crashed for the night.
Day 67: Tuelumne Meadows Zero
I woke late and Tornado, Happy, and Spice all hung out at the picknick table eating our breakfast. Happy was headed to the valley, Tornado back to the trail, and Spice and I chilled at the store in the morning.
I was waiting on shoes and a sleeping pad. We sat at a picnick table bantering on as people dropped food off that they didnt want in the middle. It was like a hiker free for all. I cooked up some fresh eggs a man dropped off, and with some free cheese and tortillas I started making freebees for anyone who was hungry.
In the afternoon, to my surprise my buddy Justin James from Phoenix rolled up! He was in Tuolumne visiting his girlfriend Joy who worked in the park. He had tracked me down with my SPOT tracker and rolled right up to the General Store where I was waiting for my package out front. It was great to see him and we ended up doing a little bouldering and chilling with his gal and friends in the area. What was a wait turned out to be a good day!
Hiker Profile:
Breeze (Dylan) – From LA, wokring as a freelance photographer/cenimatographer. Has worked for nat geo, Netflix ‘The First’, and a numver of other clients. Has no real schedule, and true with his name, but breezes on through the trail enjoying it as he desires. Perhaps post PCT he will open an Outfitters near Ashville NC. A big charismatic smile and good nature towards everyone makes him easy to like and chat with.
Breezes Vegan food
IG: DylanConrad
Spice (Katharina) 22 – From the Black Forest in Germany. Found out about the PCT from a girl that did the CDT in her hometown. She became interested and thought it would be fun. So post college, she decided to go for it. She studied Math as a bachelors in Frieborg, and will go back for her Masters. She rocks approach shoes to hike in, she had them at home and decided out of convinience to go with them. The first pair lasted until Mammoth, now she just keeps up the tradtion!
We resupplied in Mamoth. It was a nice little ski town. There was enough depth to explore and with free trollies and nice Cafes, it made getting chore done quick work.
We messed around the town until the last trolly out at 4:45 and was on it headed to Horseshoe Lake. Happy, Kevin, Lush, Reaper, Ladybug, Sissyphus, Vertigo, Trainwreck, and Cowboy all hiked the 0.6 miles to McCloud Lake to sleep for the night. The lake was awesome and we all sat on the beach chatting hang hanging out w our dinners and a few brews we packed out. It was indeed, a good day!
6.17.18: The slow walk.
My sleeping pad had been recently leaking at a pretty slow rate, after which I patched 2 holes I found. Only tonight, on a particularly cold night, the pad began rapid decompression. Every 45 minutes I would wake, cold, and my body on the ground from the deflated pad.
I must have moved quickly in the night because a muscle on my left side was enflamed and irritated. It hurt to agony and ny time I tried to relax it, the muscle would send searing pains to my brain. 1:45, 2:45, 3:45, I wouldnt sleep, and when finally 4:45came round. I got up and packed up to start hiking. It was the worst sleep on trail I’ve ever had.
I pressed out of camp first, and soon Reaper, then Lush followed. Reaper caught up to me, and with coffee in hand we chatted as we padded down the forested trail. He told me about where he was from and what he did before the PCT. We chatted on about bear attacks, wildlife, post PCT life, sports, anythin under the sun really.
Soon we had already hiked the 3 miles to the PCT and soon after the 4 miles to Devils Postpile. We decided to do the small side trip and check out the awesome basalt columns and learn how they were made while taking in their beauty.
Afterwards, Reaper pressed on and I scrambed around to get more pictures. Soon Ladybug came rolling through, asking about the rest of the crew, then pressed on himself. My back was still hurting and the exhaustion of the sleepless night was getting to me. I dragged along the trail. I tried to enjoy the creeks, mountains, flora, and fauna, but I was seriously dragging butt!
I pulled over, had a snack and resigned myself to a nice nap below a tree., Just 40minutes had passed and I woke once again, ready for the trail. I grogilly got up and pressed n, up and up through th switchbacks, across the Soda Springs trailhead, and finally into the valley that would lead me to the,Thousand Island Lake, and Island Pass.
Soon Tornado popped in behind me and we chatted on and hiking up hgiher towards the lake. Soon the magnificent Mt. Davis came into view and we both paused whatever conversation we were having in awe of the massive mountain!
After stopping for pictures we chatted on and hiked up until finally reaching a sutable camp. Soon Lush rolled in, and from our slower pace i learned that the guys had already gone over the pass. I was in no shape for that tonight, so the camp we made would have to do.
Tornado – 40s, Musician, from Roanoke Va. Went to school for meteorology and then got into music, making 4 albums and touring for 40,000 people. Kevin Selfe and the Tornadoes. After finishing the AT in 2017 and a strange string of evens, he found himself single and on the PCT hiking north.
Reaper – 25, from San Francisco, went to Whitman college in Walla Walla for English. His mother was a wrighter and his father big into backpacking. Reaper was an unltarunner and a veagan. He worked in silicon valley with a startup that make plant based air cleaning devices for industrial buildings. Hes not sure what hell do with his life once finishing the PCT. One step at a time he says.
I opened my tent to the cool crisp air of the morning to find my shoes frozen solid. Welp, I guess thats how it goes sometimes, everyone seemed to be shaking off the cold. Packing up, one by one we let out of camp.
Down we dropped next to Virginia Lake and down into a swampy area where it seemed to be a challenge to stay dry. Tiptoeing with my heavy pack I made my way across the marsh, leaping from rock to rock, my right foot submerged. Dang! Not only was it cold as heck out, I now had a freezing cold foot. Sissyphus soon caught up and I warned him of the impending doom. He skipped and hopped and leaped, almost made it before leaping from a slippery log and dipped in his foot. Despite the mishap the views were gorgeous! Mirror lakes with the golden glow of the mountains in the background.
issyphus and I cranked on the new few miles chatting on about our lives, how we grew up and the decisions that brought us to the trail and hopes for the furutre. It was an amazing hike, snow covered moutnains in the distance while going through beautifully lush green forest. The trail went up and down and bobbed on. We pulled over for a break and watched the hikers coming and going. It seemed we were in the thick of it with both PCTers and JMTers on trail.
Sissyphus packed up before I did and started pressing on while I took in the view for a bit longer. I pushed the next miles alone and enjoyed the forest. Finally I found the junction to go to Mammoth and took it. Just 1 mile before reaching the trailhead I saw a familiar bearded face walking towards me. It was Smokebeard! He was in my first bubble I started hiking with and we chatted on catching up from our nearly monthseparation.
After waving goodbye I finished the trek and found a hitch into town where I met back up with Ladybug, Sissyphus, Reaper, Cowboy, Trainwreck, and Vertigo was there (Backster). Vertigo has pushed ahead of us from Tahachapi and was trekking with his Canadian high school friend Louis. He told us that Louis quite the trail and went home. A wierd feeling befell us all at the news. Sometimes people hike as much as they can, then they just cant anymore.
We got food and a hotel room. First time sleeping in a real bed in quite some time. It was a nice comfort, and I slept like a rock!!
We all slept in an extra hour after all the good food and visiting we had the night before. Now we were reunited with Cowboy, Ladybug, Sissyphus, Happy, and myself were ready to hit the trail. The big boat wasnt ready so it gave us an excuse to have a lazy morning and send more money having breakfast at VVR.
After hanging out and chatting with other hikers un the waiting area, drinking coffee, eating honeybuns, and going on about the trail, Paint finally road up on a 4Wheeler and in a loud voice announcede that we would be ready to leave in 5 minutes! A cheer came from all of the hikers and we were soon on the water buzzing across the calm lake back to the trailhead were we would “get back to work” (as Paint put it) and start hiking again.
It felt good to get my feet back on the dirt, and we were moving! We had 3000 feet inside of 6 miles before reaching Silver Pass and we really had our work cut out. We hiked on and up trying to keep our feet as dry as possible. At one creek crossing, Sissyphus did some fancy rock hopping, and I followed. My pack was much heavier with a full resupply and I barely made the jumps that Sissyphus’s long legs did with ease. Happy came up behind us and after hopping to the first rock was caight off balance tried to reverse his course but had one of the strangest falls I had ever seen. It was like the momentum of his pack sent him in 2 tumbling summersalts, into the water and back to the bankl. He was just fine and crossed the creek by fording as the rocks had won this round.
We pressed on, but not before Sissyphus found himself a nice beautful waterfall where we couldnt resist but to strip down and jump into. He was delighted, but cold as hell! Enough messing around we pressed on adn really got to work on the pass. There were onlya few snow patches and after some navigation and obstacle avoidance, we all reached the top. We sat there in the sun and had a nice lunch together att chattering on. Sissyphus equated it to the Shawshank Redemption scene where all the guys were tarring the roof and Andy Dufrain got some beer for all the guys. The sights were incredible and I couldnt agree with his analogy more.
We finally got moving again and glacaded as many snow patches as possible before all grouping back together and snaking through the lake riddled valley. We trekked on through the lush green forest chatting on about running, the Olympics, and new sports coming to the event. Before long we came to the final ascent.
I paused to filter water and Ladybug with Reaper (a newly foudn friend at Silver Pass) pressed on. I gathereed my water, chatted with Sissyphus as he passed telling him the camp plant before packing up. I had 900 feet of gain and just 1.5 miles to camp. I was like a pig in crap, I found my little zone and just hammered up the hill. Switchback after switchback I took on the gain, not falling back or giving up pace. It felt good to push, and after some good heartpumping trail with incredible views all around I reached the top of my climb and the camp for the night.
I gathered water and the crew trickled in. Ladybug, Sissyphus, Cowboy, Happy, and now Reaper joined in. It was a solid crew and we all had good fun hiking together. The sun set on the mountains in the distance and after the usual nightly routine we crawled into our tents and found restfull slumber.
We woke early, eager to gain Selden Pass and get to VVR. There was no sign of the killer mosquitoes we encountered the night before as I poked my head out of the tent in anticipation. Happy let out of camp first, then me, leaving Sissyphus and Ladybug not far behind.
We bounded up the trail in the cool morning before the sun shown down on the west side of the pass. Gorgeous mountain lakes laid dorment and we enjoyed the mirror reflections in them as we passed. Soon Ladybug and Sissyphus caught up and the we pushed up the pass together. Dodging creeks and navigating snow patches, we followed switchback after switchback until we finally topped the pass! The rolling stones (a 10-12 person group) were hanging at the top and Weezer (the girl we helped get up Mt. Whitney) was ecstatic to see us! “Hey guys!” She exlaimed and went on to say how she told her group and we had been labeled Wezzers Whitney Booys. We were glad to meet back up and we said hey to the group and snapped a few pictures over the pass.
It was time to bomb on down and Ladybug headed up the charge down the snowpatched trail, skirting beautiful lakes, doding mudd pudles, and creeks overflowing the trail. It was a cool section and we meandered on until we found a great lunch spot just before the final climb. We sat in the sun on a large granit rock eating lunch and joking on about whatever came to mind. Someone realized they had signal and a few people messaged home.
Up we were and it was time to put this baby to bed. We started up the switchbacks and really got after the gain. We chatted as we went and found out that Happy actually was the captin of the diving team in college and he went on to tell us all about his fav flips, to challenging the swim team on meets, and how he stumbled into it never diving before (a walk-on). Before we knew it we were at the top of the gain and we once again met up with the rolling stones.
We bombed down the other side together, Ladybug and Sissyphus pressed on and Happy and Myself hept witht he boys of the Stones and ripped the long downhill. It was most definity a chage in environment and it was much more like a jungle on the north side. A little humid, and so so green. We finally reached the junction to VVR, the sotnes all waited back for the rest of their group and Happy and me pressed on.
It seemed like the longest 1.5 miles of my life, I think I was just ready to be at the ferry dock. It was pretty but I was ready to be done. Finally we reached the NE end of Edison Lake were a small boat was bringing just 4 hikers at a time back and forth to the resort on the far side of the lake. We met back up w the boys, stretched together, then Happy and I jumped in the water foor a quick dip.
Chatting on in like I looked back to see that Cowboy was there! “Hey man!” He was supposed to be 2 days ahead of us when we parted ways and he continued north as Ladybug, Sissyphus, and I went out of Kearsarge to resupply. He told me his tail, he took a wrong pass at Mather and was in no mans land. Had a heck of a time getting back, took a fall, and was all beat to heck and back. “Holy crap Cowboy!” I exclaimed. After seeing he was alright for the most part the ferry had just pulled up and it was my time to go.
An older fella named Paint Your Wagon drove the boat and definitly had a funny personality. He went on about his job and how he had a heart attack last year. Soon after the small boat bobbed across the water we arrived. The next few hours were filled with setting up tents, getting a steak dinner, a few cold bears, and grabbing my reupply box from the store. The place is admittedly a little expensive, but having a place out here in the middle of nowhere isnt free to run! We settled in for the night, what a great day!
Hiker Profile:
Boyscout + Racoon
A german couple from the black forest. They love backpacking and being outdoors. After being inspired by the book and movie Wild, they decided to pack up their things and come hike the PCT. Raccoon had been dreaming of a package her sister sent her in Mammoth full of rich delicious German chocolate!
I woke in the Muir Hut surprised at the warms the 7 bodies inside managed to muster despite the cold temps at 1200 ft. Syssyphus, Ladybug, Happy, Opa, Biscuit, Shopping Cart, an myself occupied the hut on the pass. It was the second awesome camp we had made in 2 days, and I was really appreciative.
Stepping outside into the crisp air, the snow was hard from the nights temps. Postholing seemed to be a thing of yesterday as all of us but the Marmot Murderers (as we affectionatly nicknamed Shopping Cart and Buscuit) headed out facing north, racing the rising sun.
We chatted as we hiked, and I really enjoyed the freeing feeling of just following a terrain or landscape rather thn being bound to the confines of a trail. We decneded and Ladybug continued to post hole. He wasnt the happies camper by the time we reached dry land. Soon after the snow let up we found Opa chilling by a snowmelt fed lake, Happy and myself opted to take a dip. After stripping down I jumped in cannonball style, amused at the ice chunk that went floating by. After a nice sun drying, chatting with the crew, and making some nice coffee we were all less than enthused to move.
It was necessary and we pushed on, decending into the canyon that soon turned from granit walls to forest and vegitated mountainsides. We trekked on, seperating by pace, and I soon happened upon Happy about to cross the Evolution River. I opted to join him and we both waded into the icey current. The water seemed to rise as we pushed on, hobbling over the rounded creekbed stones. It wsnt until the last 20 ft that the current really became agressive, and we fought inch by inch until sucessfully standing on the other side.
After a quick break we were off again, soon decending to our lowest elevation of the day and twisting and winding following the furocious river that was made by snowmelt. After gathering water below a bridge, Lewis showed up! I hadnt seen the guy in quite a while and we caught up before pressing on.
The last hill of the day was a big boy, weighing in at 1700 lbs inside 3 miles. I pressed on, just grinding out the miles and sweating every step of the way. I could tell it was getting later and watched the sun start to show its golden stripes through the trees and leaves. Finally after a few grueling miles, I pulled into camp. I was pretty tuckered out and set up my tent as fast as I could as the mosquitoes here were absolutely terrible! Ladybug and Sissyphus warned me as soon as I walked up, but before the words got out of their mouths, I got bit 3 times. From the confines of my tent I stretched, made food, and was soon too tired to keep my eyes open.
Hiker Profile:
Opal- 25, from Buffilo NY. Very independent, hiking alone, and she waits for noone. She helped wrangle horses in Montana for the past 3 summers and finds that shes is most at home in the outdoors. PCT seemed to be a natural progression for her, so here she is, taking on the long distance trail solo!
We woke next to the Palisde Lake, what a magical place! By far the best campsite I’ve had on the PCT to date. It was chilly and pulling myself from my war sleeping bag was all the motivation I need to get my butt going on the trail.
The sun had yet to hit us as I let out. Ladybug and Sissyphus weren’t far behind and Happy and Pickle seemed to be taking their time. The trail bombed down from the lake and followed a beautiful cascading waterfall as it did. Down and down it went and it really felt good to get the legs going. I paused for a picture when Ladybug and Sissyphus rounded the corner. We bombed down the canyon as a trio and chatted on about political history.
The granit towering walls were the theme of the day and continued all the way down, even once we walked back into treeline. We all pulled over for a break to check out an old washed out footbridge and Happy and Pickle come strolling in. Pickle was getting off at Bishop pass to meet his fiance and we bid him a goodbye as he pressed on.
We had reached the bottom of the canyon and it was time to climb. We hiked up and on, checked out the roaring creek, wandering deer, and lush green meadows below the surrounding granit cliffs. It was a wounderland.
Soon after leaving tree line again our wounderland turned to winterland. Snow patches that had been feeding the roaring rivers reared their heads, but we were determined. Ladybug and I pressed on as we were seperated from Happy and Sissyphus after taking a break hidden up high from trail.
We hiked on, postholing in the snow, crossing ice bridges above raging rivers, and seldomly scampering across some exposed rock. It was pressy sweet and I was loving the trailless mountaineering approach to the ascent. We climbed up to a beautiful glacier lake half covered in ice and filtered a bit of water.
As soon as we rounded the ridge we saw Happy and Sissyphus having a break on a rock. “Whats up guys!” We were happy to find them as it woud have been a nightmare trying to manage the pass and figuring out of we should pwait or go on without them. We pressed the last snow covered slopes together. Step after atep until finally Muir Stone House came into view!
This would be our camp for the night and we were extatic to fially have arrived. We all cooked up dinner as hikers came rolling in. Opa, Shoppin Cart, Buscuit, and Feather. Feather only stayed for a moment, long enough to share some food and drink with us. Buscuit and Shopping cart seemed hell bent on catching a nearby marmot. I let them be not thinking they could do it, until my surprise they did. Something in me had to protest and I said they should prbably let the lil fella go. Once that whole ordeal was over, we all settled down and watched the sun set over the mountains. What an action packed incredile day. To top it off we wouod be sleeping in a little mountain paradise!
“Pain reatains! This is how we learn lessons” – Pickle
I woke and it was go time. Packed up, and was moving before 6am, headed towards the Pinchot Pass. Apparenly that was on everyone elses minds as well and we pushed for the sow covered pass. Up and on we went through the shaded morning. The sun finally went to work on the high cliff walls surrounding us. I hopped over a creek crossing, looked back to take a picture, and there was Ladybug headed up trail. I waved and pressed on.
Up and on we went, he caught me and we chatted for a moment before he pulled over to strip his puffy jacket. I pressed on, and as I climbed I found that the water covered trail turned to ice. I hopped and skipped rockers where I could and just kept pressing on. Then log snow patches came in, I crossed them with relative ease as they were still hard form the mornings chill. I passed a JMTer and said good morning as he muttered about Oxygen problems, but seemed fine. It was kind of like paying the lava game as a kid, but instead you were avoiding water, ice, and postholing in the snow.
After some time I finally reached the headwall of the pass and soon Ladybug joined me for the final push. Across snow patches, back onto the bare trail, and back again we climbed until we were crossing the last switchback. We stopped and took in the view taking pictues and chatting on. We stopped ontop of the pass for snacks. Soon Happy and a new friend Pickle came popping over the pass. “Where is Sissyphus?” Paul and I asked. It seemed no one had seen him for some time. Paul got up and walked down the pass until finally finding him tucked near a rock. He joined and we all joked on, and took in the views.
We pressed down the north face in the large group. I had my iceaxe out and tried to glisade wherever possible. Man it was great fun sliding down on decent ice! We reached the bottom of the pass and took a quick pause to check out a lake. A nearby marmot kept poking its head out from under a boulder. Ladybug joked on about catching it and eating it for dinner as I stripped down and made a flying leap from a lakeside boulder into the nearly freezing icey waters. Whew man that will wake you up!
We pressed on as a group and I found myself chatting with Pickle quite a lot. We went on about alcohol laws, gun laws, hunting laws, and all the differences between states. Pickle was an avid flyfisherman and hunter of water foul, that is when he isnt hiking. We went on and on and the miles mealted away. Soon we found our first big waterford and without hesitation we all just went for it, plundging in, up to our thighs in fridged waters. The next few miles were the same rythm of water crossings and beautful forests while chattin on.
We paused for a quick break until everyone but Happy (who seemed temporarily MIA) showed up. We hiked on towards Mather Pass. On and up we went hopping across snow patches until finally reaching the switchbacks and after a heardy push we all made it to the top. Breaking on a nice sitting rock we just lookedforward towards the snow covered fields ahead. Soon we pressed on and post holed, slip and slided, and glicaded when we could down the north face into the valley and finally finding once again, the PCT.
The next miles were spectactular as a mountain lake came into view. The water was perfectly clear and all around waterfalls trickled down the snowmelt to feed the thirsty lake. This is one of the most beautiful places ive ever seen. We skirted the lake and finally came down on a green grass knoll of the far side and decided there was no contest, we had to camp here. Sissyphus, Ladybug, Pickle, and myslef set up shop and just got through eating dinner as Happy came rolling into camp. “Happy!!!” everyone yelled. We were all glad to see him and he said he was tuckered out! He set up tent as well and we all receeded to our tents, getting ready for the next days haul.
Hiker Profile:
Pickle (Dillan) 36, from Pennsylvania. An avid hunter and fisherman. He seemed like a good ol boy, very friendly and had a great sense of humor. Could make just about anyone laught and fit right it in the groups smart alic attitude. Hiked the AT in 2016, and planned to do the CDT in 2020. His fiance was coming out to meet him and he would be coming off trail to hang out in Tahoefor 5 days.
We woke next to Flower Lake and started getting goign. There was something about getting off the PCT, Hiking 7miles over a pass, just to pick up 5 days of food and hike back. A necessary evil, but still something none of us enjoyed doing, fretted it actually. Our only concelation was the really cool hostel we stayed at in the town of Biship. So that was the mood as we packed up and got rolling.
It was windy on the pass as we began to climb. We were all still shaking off the morning chill and Ladybug, Sissyphus, Happy, and myself grinded out the hike. Up and up we went, and the golden morning light with the incredible views went great lengths to soften the blow of the climb. Soon we topped it, and dumped down onto the west side of Kersarge pass where the sun had yet to warm. It 6was downhill to the PCT and Bullfrog Lake was looking especially awesome!
Finally back on we headed north,up throuhg the valley snaking our way through until finally finding the switchbacks that lead to Glenn Pass. WE ran into a few other hikers as we pressed on, even met a few people hiking the JMT. The gain became hardy and the pace slowed as we climbed. Only a few patches of snow remained on the south side. Switchback after switchback we climbing until finally conquoring the beast and standing atop the pass.
The north side was covered in snow, but ot had been kicked out pretty well. We stopped for a snack as we watched a group of JMTers carefully crossing the snowpacked north face. We had already been tempered in the snow of Forester Pass and were all excited to see if we could glicade some of the patches. We hurridly hiked across, joking around in hight spirits. The snow at the top was hard and steep but as we decended we found a few nice patches to glicade and play on.We were soon at the bottom of the pass and started hiking towards Rae Lakes.
The lakes were incredible, clear as a bell and twice as cold. They still looked so inviting, and after hiking for a mile or so, we stopped for lunch and Ladybug and I did a little cliff jumping! Whew boy talk about cold. As soon as my body hit the water it took my breath away! After sufacing and grabbing some air I realized it wasnt so back, swam back and climbed the face back to the rock I leaped from. The sun went to drying us off and we all chatted and snacked.
It was time to roll and we headed north through the canyon. It sure was gorgeous, snowcovered mountains towered around us and crystal clear lakes with rumbling waterfalls feeding them. It was a mountin paradise! After trekking down the canyon for some miles we came to a full on suspension bridge that only allowed 1 hiker to dcross at a time, it was soooo cool!
After chilling for a break below the bridge, we pressed the final miles to camp. We were just 5 miles from the pass, it was the last sheltered area to camp before it, and it was like a hiker free for all. We were all spead out, so I decided to climb a little higher and found a nice little 1 man pas high on the rocks above. I plopped here for the night and snuggled in for what was sure to be a cold and windy night. Tomorrow the pass awaited, and we were ready!
Here we are at the Hotel California . . . Such a lovely place
Ladybug, Happy, Sissyphus and myself all rented a room at The Hostel California. It was such a cool place, very hiker friendly, and felt very welcoming and communal. We went down to find free fresh eggs, bread, and coffee for breakfast! There were townclothes to borrow, bikes to ride around town, free wifi, showers, a chill area to hang out, tv with a ton of movies, and games galore.
We sat at the breakfast table, most of us journaling, having breakfast and joking around and sharinf trail stories. It was pretty darn nice. Once done, we cleaned out the room, went into town, did laundry, had lunch, resupplied food, packed our bearcans to the brims and caught the 1:15pm bus back to Independance from Bishop for 6.50$
After catching an uber to the trailhead we just sat for some time and chatted. Brews from a gas station and assorted snacks made our dinner as we talked about different people we had met on the trail and our personal perspectives on what we were actually doing out here. None of us were psyched to get back on the trail right away and this was a nice way to recharge from all the stress of running around town and getting all your chores done.
It sounds silly, but getting off the trail and going into town can be stressful. It nice to have places like the hostel and good friends to help along the experience and make the resupply experience a little more livable.
We headed out, pushing up the switchbacks back towards Kearsarge Pass. It felt good to move again after the break and we miles melted away. We soon found ourselves at Flower Lake just 2.5 miles in and set up camp for the night. Even getting a few miles away from the main trailhead felt nice. We chatted and joked before tucking into our tents. We all really appreciated the chance to have a unique experience like the PCT. We all have our reasons for being here, all had different ways of arriving in Campo, sacrifices we had to make, but none the less, here we all are. Enjoying the trail and enjoying each others company.
Ladybug and Sissyphus, pretending to be stormtroopers . . . It happens
Hiker Profile:
Happy – 33, From upstate NY, but now lives in Seattle. He is well chracterized by his name, always pretty chipper and upbeat. He worked as a software designer creating tools for graphics designers for the game Halo. After a not so great breakup, he is here to explore the outdoors and do something for himself for a change. He has a great outlook on life and is a really geniune guy.
Sometimes the road to Subway seems longer than it should!
I was wet when I woke. The humidity from the nearby creek made the cold even colder but none the less, it was time to move. Packing up, Sissyphus, Ladybug, and I were all ready to roll by 6. Forester pass was on all our minds.
We trekked up and out of the valley before coming to the Tyndall river where we met Nemo considering his options to ford. A few hop, skips, and leaps of faith landed all of us safely on the other side of the river. He joined up with us and we all chatted on as we hiked towards the pass.
The snow patches started to appear and before long we found ourselves stairing up at the pass. We strapped on our microspikes and pulled out the iceaxes as we ascended. It was an arduous push, but soon we were all past the snow patches and onto the rock safely hiking up the switchbacks. The final snow traverse was across a chute would be pretty bad if you were to slip here. We carefully crossed, step after step, whew! Made it!
Finally we stood ontop of the pass at 13,200 ft, the boarder of Sequoia NP and Kings Canyon NP. The snow on the north side looked pretty nice and after a ton of pictures we started to decend. All the way down to 9500 feet we walked the beautiful canyon. My feet were wet by the time we all met up for camp. Pulled the shoes off and let them dry out as we snacked. We met a fella named Grench at our break spot. We all soon came to the same conclusion, that the guys name was well earned. The optitomy of “Keep your eyes on your own paper”, he seemed so concerned with our plans for resupply and taking in the trail. Everyone is out there on their own mission, but he seemed to be the first one I met that thought that thru hiking was dumb.
We pressed on. It was a grueling hike to the top of Kearsarge Pass. The views were incredible and the only consolation to the hard hike (or seamingly heard after the day summiting Mt Whitney and crossing the Forester Pass that morning). We were all pretty beat and for the next 4.5 miles we descended with Happy who caught up to us. We all fantasized about Subway and went on at length about what we would get on our sandwiches.
It seemed never ending, but we finally reached the trailhead. Car after car passed us with no sucess to having our thumbs stuck out. After about half an hour a fella names Jeff stopped off and opened is car to us. He was so nice of a buy, nopt only did he give us a ride down from the mountain, but also gave us a ride all the way into Bishop (a 30 mile drive). We celebrated his genorocity and chatted on the ride.
Finally we arrived at The Hostel California, an awesome spot that was only 25$ a night and was super hiker friendly. They had bikes to ride around town, hiker box, hiker food. Well worth the price. Soon after finding food in town and having a cold beer, we all passed out like a robot shutting down.
Hiker Profile:
Nemo – 22 Mars Years Old – Well read, pretty fabulous fella that Hiked the AT in 2014. He loves the America culture and the thru hiker lifestyle. Enjoys how people come to reinvent themselves and immerse in alternative lifestyles. He looks at a thru hike as playing in the woods. Exploreing and of being in small scale society is very interesting. The people are kinder, nicer, and you can feel more at home. He studied Biological and Anthropology masters at The University of Michigan and did his undergrad at UofA in Biology and Math. He is an ulstralighter and has a spriatic hiking style. Sometimes hell hike 50 miles, other times, 30, then 10, have some zeros, then do three 40 milers back to back. The definition of social butterfly, he flutters from group to group getting to know everyone and loves to chat.
Jeff – Works for LA times, gave us a ride all the way to Bishop, what an awesome guy!
You know its going to be a great day when your alarm blasts at 1am! We set up camp just 7.5 miles below the summit of Mt Whitney and we went to bed at 6pm to prepare ourselves foe the journey. Both Ladybug and Sissyphus had never been above 12000 ft and I was stokede to accompany them on their first 14er!
It was chilly and we were up and moving, not saying much as we trekked quickly through the darkness via headlamp. We could see some headlamps in the distance and knew a few people had already started up. Soon after rounding a corner we heard a voice and a headlamp shine on us “Hey! Casn I come with you guys? I got lost and seperated from my group” The voice wimpered. Ladybug pipped up, “Sure thing!” And that how we met Weezer. We sandwihed here in the group and we pressed on.
She told us she was feeling queezy from being sick the day before and she had missed her group leaving that morning. In trying to catch them, the guys had too quick of a pace and she got turned around. After hiking and chatting a bt, we started to realizr that Weezer was suffering from altitude sickness. She mentioned her stomach not feeling great and possibly puking. WE stopped and asked her to make the call. If she went to the peak we would go with her, if she turned back then she should be able to find her way easily. And if she puked . . . well there is only 1 way to go but down. After she sat for a second she decided to press on and I grabbed her pack putting it on my chest and carrying it along with mine. I was slackpacking so my weight was pretty light. We laid down a solid pace and just started marching up the switchbacks through the dark.
Patches of snow would come on and we would take our time and overcome the obstacle. Time and time againi we did until taking a break at the Whitney Trail and JMT junktion. Sissyphus brewedup some hot chocolate and we snacked down all bundles up trying to hold off the cold.
It was time to press on and as we did we could see the moon shining on the rock faces adjacent to the switchbacs we were ascending, it was gorgeous! We kept after it and the white glow from the moon started to fade and the blue of morning started wokring in. Blues turned to pinks, turned to oranges, turned to yellows. The sun was doing its thing and the light flooding onto the sentinal peaks surrounding us was one of the most beautiful sights you could see.
We trekked on skirting the ridgeline, avoiding ice, and carefully navigating fozen ice patches as we came upon them. When we finally reached the last 0.5 miles and the last patch of snow was behinf us I gave Weezer her pack back, and we all pressed for the peak! The sun had just rissen as we summited and it was one hell of a view!
After phone calls and photo shoots we made our way back down the trail. On the way I suggested we stop and summit Muir while we were at it. It was a class 3/4 scramble and the guys seemed keen. WE ascended the rocky slopes that lead to the granot blocks of the climb. One move after another we carefully climbed, and after some slab climbing, hand jamming, and all around fun scrmbling, we touched the top of Mt Muir. What a great day!!!
Wasting no time we headed back down the long switchbaks, through the glacier lake area, and finally to campo where we all crashed hard for a long hour nap.
Our work wasnt dine yet and we packed up camp and hiked another 7 gorgeous miles through some of the prettiest ladscape ive seen. Snow capped mountains, gorgeous green meadows, sequoia trees, golden light from the end of the day, every step was worth it. We settled in our camop just next to Tyndall Creek in a great position to take Forester Pass, just 4 miles away. The pass should be hiked early, before the snow losses its ridgidity and becomes less stable. At any rate, it was one hell of an awesome day!
We woke to ice on our bear canisters and on the inside of our tents. Musta got a little chilly last night! I heard Sissyphus and Ladybug stirring in their tents as I started packing up. The lake the night before was beautiful and as I hiked out of camp, the morning light did it some great justice too!
Ladybug was close behind me as I pulled out of camp and for the next few miles we just took in the views and chatted about life. We would point to twisted sequoias, then chat about lifes plans awaiting us after the trail. Its nice tto just BS and have some trail talk as you are meandering through and both getting high on the same views.
Ladybug pulled off and I pressed on in silence, watching the squirrels and chimpmunks scamper as they caught sight of me. What a gorgeous morning, the light was gleeming through the trees and before I knew it I was at a creek crossing and 9 miles behind me. Woot! I found a lare log to cross over and plopped down for nice break.
Soon after snacking down, sewing a hole in my smartwool gloves, and packing up my bag the fellas came rolling around the corner. I told them about the log and the both happily crossed. Cowboy came stomping up to the crossing, I told him about the log as well. He looked in that direction, then at the creek, and walked right in like it was nothing. Cowboy is a funny fella.
The gain was on! The 4 of us let out from the creek and it was Ladybug in the lead, myself following, Sissyphus, and lastly Cowboy. The grind up the switchback covered mountainside was grueling. It was just what I was looking for! Up and up we went twisting through the pines, breathing in calculated breaths in the higher altitude. After what seemed like an hour, Ladybug and I topped out the big up and contintue to press on towards camp.
The seqoiuas and pines were gorgeous, and like curtains, just barely covered the towering granite moutnains behind. On and on we went until we finally dumped into a meadow the would be our approach for Whitney summit. We grabbed water, and took a rest before pushing onto camp near the Ranger Station. We were positioned for a 1:30am leave time which would put us at the top of the continental US at sunrise. I was excited for the challenge, but I needed to sleep. We all did, and crawling into our beds at 6pm, we were rimed and ready!
Of the Seven Dwarves, Grumpy has the greatest jokes . . . You’d literally die if he ever told one!
I woke up on the wrong side of the sleeping pad. Ill try and make this short.
1) It was chilly, and soon after trekking my left wristband to my trekking pole break. I put it in my hipbelt pocket to find later that it fell out during a break.
2) My sleeping pad went flat in the night, which means I’d have to play Where’s Waldo with the tiny hole, or it had gotten so cold that the pressure dropped (ive yet to determine which is right answer).
3) After trekking for a few miles I heard from other hikers that there was phone signal at mile 732. I hadn’t had signal for days and I was excited to call and chat with my people . . . no signal! I climbed ontop of rock pilars, rock mounds, any highpoint I saw (an older fella Lucky looked at me like I was crazy) just to find out later that it was AT&T and not Verizon that had the tower . . . phone battery down 30%.
4) At one point I took off my backpack, and in doing so something caught my neacklace, and broke it sending the 2 rings I had on there flying. I watched helplessly as they fell into 2 different granit cracks. My heart fell and I searched frantically. After finding the first and contourting my hand to find the second. I somehow miraculously recovered the lost rings. Whew!
Alright now that we got that much of the day out of the way, lets get lunch and try to enjoy the rest! It was actually very beautiful out. The pine trees were gorgeous and the distant views of mountains were magestic. The temps were great in the sun and it was a good day for trekking.
The group seemed to keep on missing each other. First I saw Cowboy, and then Ladybug, and finally I caught up with Sissyphus and threw a snowball at him. Joking around with the fellas and the great views really turned my mood.
We trekked on and up finally finding Cottonwood Pass, which of course was gorgeous, and then Chick Spring Lake, our camp for the night. I got to borrow Sissyphus’s phone and make a call from Cottonwood Pass which made me feel btter too. By the time we got to camp, jumped in the freezing lake, and made dinner, it was only 7:30. Despite the morning upsets, I really enjoyed the day, the people, and the views the trail had to offer!
I woke in the night looking up at the clear sky through my flyless tent, it was nice. I staggered out of my tent, used the restroom and made it back through the dark to lay down just half an hour before my alarm blasted.
Up with the sun, down with the sun, its the thru hiker way. I was soon on my feet all packed up, including bear canister and ice axe, ready for the snow. Pack heavy I carried on, the guys were up and I waved bye as I pressed on.
The trail snaked through the pine forest before finally entering a large valley where we gained a saddle. Through the miles I met Data with Heaven, and saw Kathryn trailside taking a break by the creek. Data and Heaven were Ultralight boys, I could never figure out how having no hipbelt was good for your back . . .
We trekked on up and past the saddle before settling down into the open meadow beyond. It was nice trekking, we could see snowcapped mountains in the distance. Bend after turn we finally came to a foot bridge. The coolest thing about the footbridge is that its underside was infested with Swallows who were highly active! They would bob in and out of their little nests then fly off together in a big circle soon returning. It was mezmirizing to watch them work and I sat creek side. Soon Ladybug, Cowboy, and Sissyphus joined.
It was the nicest and best break ive ever taken on the PCT. I got in the water, it was invigorating but not frigid. I dried out in the sun, had a snack, chatted, and somehow managed to take a nap. I almost felt guilty there by the creekside, then looking around and seeing all the other hikers that arrived and followed suite, it made it not so much of a guilty pleasure.
None the less it was time to press on. I packed up and headed out, waving bye to the boys. The open high desert lead to a pine forest which had some nice overheade coverage which was nice because the gain started picking up. The granite boulders started showing themselves and this seemed like the Sierras I know from past trips. Tall pines, white rock and white padded trail. The gain was constant and a good 2500 feet later I found Ladybig chilling by a rock. I joined and enjoyed the chance to chill. We chatted on joking around as Cowboy and Sissyphus rolled in joining.
It was just 3.9 miles to water and we all strolled them with ease. The views were amazing and the afternoon light lit of the rocks and trees in its own special golden way. Finally we arrived and after dinner, filtering , and stretches, soon found ourselves tucked away in our tents as the sun set. A great day indeed!
Hiker Profile:
Data – 27, from Vermont. A fairweather hiker, he chose the PCT as it first his nature best. Managed a production facility that made baked goods for 5 years before deciding to do something different. An ultralight hiker, carrying very light gear and little of it. He boasted that him and heaven would do 35 miles on average and sometimes 40. They took no breaks and hiked from dawn to dusk.
Kathryn: 30s/40s very nice and well mannered gal from Portland. Always wanted to do the PCT, was actually discouraged when the book and movie Wild came out as the trail was swamped with hikers. She said it seemed like a good year, and the traffic has diminished, so it seemed right!
Kennedy Meadows is the south gate to the Sierras. We woke the next morning, ready to resupply and get after it! We grabbed some pancakes, hashbrowns, and coffee to start the morning off right.
The name of the game was go to Grumpy Bears and the Outfitters a few miles away, then come back and do laundry, take a shower, have a last real meal before hitting the road.
Cowboy stayed behind and Ladybug, Sissyphus and I hit the Outfitters and Grumpy bears for lunch. Pausing to play a few games of pool on their rockity table, then headed back to the general store.
My package hadn’t arrived yet and I was nervous that if it didnt arrive on the Saturdy (today) I’d be stranded there for 2 more days waiting on my gear and food. When I got back I found that I was in luck!
Packing the bearcan, extra clothes, 5 days of food, and iceaxe into and on the outside of my pack was a feat all in and of itself. I was ready and soon were the boys. I grabbed the last drying shirt from the clothesline and threw it in my bag as we all took off for the trail.
The feeling was that we couldnt get stuck there another night and a riverside camp was just what the doctor ordered! We let out trekking on through the open desert before finally coming to a pine forest and a sign that said Sierra South Wilderness. We had made it!
Soon afer the sign we found an awesome camp just off the river and settled in. I went flyless tonight hoping for good stars. It was a good solid day and after seeing many hikers and nice things in town, it was time to get back to the reason we are out here, the wilderness!
It was strange to think of how far I had already come. Over 25% of the trail complete and less than 2000 miles to go. I went over this in my head as I hit my alarm to a snooze. It got cold that night, just at 6800 ft, I could only think of sleeping in the Sierras above 11,000 ft and most likely on top of a patch of ice.
I was up and packed, saying by to the fellas and trodding off down the trail. The chill clung to the moring and it didnt help that I was trekking in the shadow of the moutnain all morning. I put my buff up over my face and trekked on through the pines. Down down down the trail went before I finally came across a creek for a water resupply.
I plopped down filtering a few liters as Cowboy, Sissyphus, and Ladybug came trekking in. We chatted and snacked, joking about the trail and chatting about how windy it was yesteray. Packing up once again we pushed off. Holding a good pace up the final hill of the day I smelled smoke. “Paul, do you smell that?!”. He laughed “Yup, just lit one up!” He was hiking behind me with a lit cigarette and I busted out laughing. Not only was he puffing away, but also holding pace like nobodys business!
Sissyphus pulled in behind and the 3 of us pressed the next few miles to the high point of the day where we first really got to see the snowcapped Sierras. We took it in, snapped pictures, and knew we were close to the Sierras doorstep. We trekked on, through the winding canyon that finally spit us out into the basin that lead to Kennedy Meadows. We stopped at a creek and kicked back for a nice relaxing hour break.
We got up and pushed the last 8.5 miles through the winding valley. It seemed that we were still in high desert and went in and out of patches of pines. We turned a corner and all of the sudden a gorgeous creek came audibilally and visually rushing into my life. It was crystal clear and gorgeous and accompanied the final miles in. Once I got to the road a burly man with a long white beard on a grey pickup truck answering to the name of Dave asked me if I wanted a ride. Soon Cowboy and Sissyphus came rambling in. Ladybug had already caught the last ride and was waiting for us at the general store when we arrived.
It was time for beer, burger, and rechanging the batteries. What a great day. Trekking all day just to come in and relax with friends and when you arrived everyone clapped giving you a heros reception. It wasn’t home, but it was a pretty decent concelation.
Hiker Profile:
Horseie and Rooster (Alex) 25 from LA, hiking by horseback. He bought his mustang from the BLM for 125$ at Ridgecrest. He tamed him, himself and was all set to go for the long haul. He started in January of all months and had come off the trail twice waiting for snw to met. With a big smile and his full cowboy gear on Rooster gave me the rundown on Horsie and I petted his head and neak. What a cool way to trek the PCT!
We all slept in! The alarm blasted and I slapped the snooze, a second time, and a third! Finally around 5:45 I started moving around groggily getting my things together. It was nice to lie in every once in a while and once I popped my head out of my tent I found the Sissyphus (Heddi), Ladybug (Paul), and Cowboy (Mike) had all done the same.
But none the less the miles weren’t going to walk themselves. We got rolling and headed out as a group. We soon crossed Highway 178 at Walkers Pass and started up the next large hill. It was some good gain and we got after it! Trekking on and slowly ascending the moutains in the distance and the desert to the east came into view. We soon realized that this marked the start of the foothills to the Sierra Nevada Mountains and we were almost at their doorstep!
The trail swisted and winded throught the pine covered mountains and soon skirted east allowing the expansive desert to the east to be put on display. It was might beautiful! Trekking on the trail pushed us to the backside of the moutnain, back down into the high desert. We all started leap frogging and hiking at differet paces. Back and forth we went until finding a nice spring to grab water and take in some lunch.
It had been a really nice day and the little oasis in the canopied canyon was gorgeous. Other hikers came and went, grabbing water, and the 3 of us took in a nice long break! There was only 1 climb betweeen us and camp. Six miles, 2000 feet of gain and nothing but mountain top views (we hoped)! We finished up, packed up, and headed on. Sissyphus, Ladybug, and I stuck together on the climb like a well oiled machine. Took a nice solid pace and didnt let up until the mountain did! As we gained the trsail the wind became more ands more hostile.
We kept pushing on and the wind just kept getting harder! The half bent over pines told the story that this was the norm here in this little cooridoor and it was up to us to endure as the pine did. We pressed on step after step, mile after miles, until finally we came to a windswept campsite. We ducked down on the east side of the ridge and there was practically no wind! We chose our camp and set up. The trees above still screamed from the wipping wind as if it were angry we temporarly escaped its grip! I was glad to have a nice chill spot, and soon all of us were fed, and receeding to our tents from the wind. A great day indeed!
You ever know when an angel will come and save your life!
I woke to a gorgeous sunrise! Our camp the night before was atop Skinner Peak, and when we rose we had a magnificent view as reward for climbing the mountains the night before. What a great way to start the day! I chatted with the trio who camped nearby as I started to pack up. They were a couple hiking the trail with their daughter. This was a first for me to find on the trail, I had not encountered another full on family.
After finishing up my packing I stood ready to take on the day with coffee in hand. I said fairwell to the family and walked to where Cowboy (Mike), Sissyphus (Hidde), and Ladybig (Paul) were camped. They were still packing up so I decided to press on. The golden light was still magnificent as I trekked on. The light streamed through the trees and lit the beaten trail as it winded across the mountain.
As the trail decended the forest I took in all the trees, chirping birds, and scarce squirrels I could see. The day was perfect temps and it was just a lovely trail winding through the mouanins. I soon found a nice spot break and the fellas caught up and passed me up. After I was done I pressed on and the trasil finally escped the mountainside and spit us onto an old dirt road that crossed an open high desert. The trail bumped up and down, until finally finding its way over a saddle and we started the last decent to walked pass.
Long and stretched out switchbacks skirted us on the moutnainside and we once again decended to the desert. The sun began to warm us as it did. I sipped on the last bit of water out of 1 bottle, knowing I’d have just 0.5 liters in another left to hold me over. We needed to get to the trailhead. Trekking on, trying to keep up woth Ladybugs long legs as we chatted, we decended the trail. Finally we popped out to find Garlic, a trail Angel, under a pavilion making up some guac! Man what a treat, trail magic is the best!
Couple of cold beers, guac, chips, and resfreshing water brought us all back to life. We needed to get to Lake Isabella and hitching was the first mode on all our minds. We walked towards the road we saw a lady dropping off a hiker (Happy) and we flagged her down. She said to jump on in and we threw our packs in her hatch. Her name was Lisa and was in town visiting her father on a break from teaching and going to school (for her teaching degree).
She was great! She drove us the 1 miles to Onyx so Sissyphus could pick up a package at the post office, then waited on us and drove us all the way into town. We stopped at a place called the Shadys Bar and got food and a beer to recharge our sprits. There was a pool table nearby and we all had a go at playing. Afterwards Lisa offered to give us a ride 0.5 miles down the road to the Vons (grocery store) we were so glad. Upon arrival, she said she enjoyed hanging out with us and didnt have much to do that day so she was going to give us a ride back to the trailhead after we finished shopping. What a true angel all the way! We quickly shopped and chatted in the car on the ride back. Once there we cooked up smores for all the hikers camping nearby before finally crashing out. Lisa made our days, its always nice to find kindess in places you never expect it!
Trail Angel:
Lisa – 32, An elementary school teacher, living in Berkeley. Her father lives in Lake Isabella, a truck driver, whom she learned her sharp whit and can-do attitude from. She aspires to hike the PCT herself once her school is completed.
I woke and after the mourning routine was ready for the trail. Sissyphus, Paul, and Mike were all packing up and getting ready as well as the usual banter started on. Mike piped up, pointing to the outhouse, “Someone left a huge mess in the basement of that playhouse!” We all roared in a laugh and finished up our packing before heading out.
I pushed on first, hiking out of the awesome camp into the pine forest. Over the next few miles the forest spit us out back into the desert below as we decended the trail. We trekked on and soon found a water cashe at 7 miles. Thankt the lord for trail angels in this dry section of trail! Without some of the strategically placed caches I could see this being a very hard stretch.
The gang all rejoined at the cache, then we pushed out together across the vast desert landscape. We could see it changing, the mountains were half desert, half grante, givinmg prelude to the Sierras to come. We took in the sights before another nice break 6 miles later.
The push t the next cache was a warm one and I pressed on first. The trail had become sany and I watched the lizards scamper at the sight of my approach. Twisting and turning I pressed on up through the moutains and finally over a last long hill to the next cache. It was like we had hiked into a new bubble of hikers, most of the people here I had never seen or met, We said hi and cameled up.
There was 3miles between us and camp and they, of course, were all up hill. I took it on in ernest and before I knew it, sweating, panting, heart racing, I gained the 1700 feet to the top where camp awaited. The fellas trickled in and soon diner was made and we were als linking off to our tents. What a great day!
Hiker Profile:
1liner – 32, from Ohio Originally, he went to school in Wisconsin for Physics and Math. Them after having trouble finding a job after the 2008 crash he went to a tech school and learned to be a machinist. He settles in Seattle and worked there for quite a few years. He wants to have his own machine shop and has started purchasing tools. He attempted the PCT in 2007, but after contracting a neuroviris and puking and deficating for 3 days straight every 3 hours, he decided to leave the trail and come back this year to try again.
Paul – 23, From Davis, he studies Political Science at UCSantaBarbara. He really went there to run and standing at 6’3, 160 at the time, he was quick. Unfortunatly a sting of injury stunted his career. His girlfriend is in San Francisco working with foster kids. She is scheduled to come in 1 month to hike with him. After the trail they will figure the rest out together.
The alarm becconed and I unwantingly answered. After the usual morning routine I immerged from my secluded campsite made for 1 and headed down to the spring below where Sissyphus and Paul were packing up. We chatted for a bit, but with coffee in hand I was ready to get going.
The morning was pretty chill. The trail meandered up and down, on the side of ridges covered in windmills until finally resing on a saddle. I stopped after craning out 7 and had a nice morning chicken and pepperoni burrito and looking at the views. Of all the things that ran in and out of my head (as lots of things do when all you have is time to think or observe the trail around you) I began woundering about what life would be like after the trail. Just then Sissyphus and Paul came rounding the corner, easily bounding with their long strides. We chatted for a few and they pressed on leaving me to the views.
I packed up and pressed on twisting and turning through the open landscape, spotted with canopied scrub oaks. I was enjoying the stroll when suddenly I heard a rattle! I instantly knew what it was and scanned the yellow field to find a curiously colored rattler sounding off. He was yellowish green, a Mojave Green. He carried a serious reputation and after looking at him, I carried on.
By the time I got to the spring there was a group of hikers just handing out. Sissyphus amd Paul, including Mike were among them and I took one of the longest rests of my time on the trail.
Sissyphus and I walked the remaining 7 miles together from camp. We were talking about US history, as well as Holland war history. It was always intertestung to me to get someone elses viewpoint, especially when they arent from the US (his from Holland). We chatted on and the miles melted below the beautiful pines.
We finally made camp and filtered from an awesome spring tub nearby. There we met Burn who was from Iowa, claimed Austin TX, but now lives in orange county. She was a nice girl with pink and green hair. We all filtered water in prep for the push thew next day (42 dry miles!). Both Paul and Sissyphus took a dip. I just went for the hair and a few pairs of socks that needed some TLC. It was food, stretches, and fire before finally subdues by the becconing of the tent that we all crashed out.
Hiker Profile:
Spirit kick (Ethan) – From Phoenix, lives in Anthem. He came out to hike the trail while his two sisters stayed back and help take care of his house and send him packages. He had shin splints for some time and actually came off trail for a week to rest up before resuming and pressing on. Not a fan of people rambling on about all the snow in the Sierras, hes just ready to get there and see whats its like for himself!
Trench foot. I lost a sock just 2 days before, so the third day of wearing the same dirty socks was getting to my feet. Coming into Tehachapi we hiked 30 miles and my foot was fed up. It felt like irritated skin on the underside of my right toes. After inspection, I concluded that something had to be done. Two pair of socks for Big 5 and some Tanactin cream later and I was on my way to being right as rain!
We took a zero to get a good full rest. We camped in the back of the Red House BBQ place and tooled around the western town. There was a Memorial Day celebration, and all kinds of cowboys and cowgirls decended ln the town for music, 2step, and good food. After resupplying and enjoying the best food in town, we crashed out ready for the next day!
Day 44:
Louis, Mike, Baxter, Sisyphus, Paul, and myself woke early in the back yard of the Red House BBQ. Conviniently next door there was a diner that opened at 5:30am and after some of us packed our bags we headed over. It was a nice sendoff before getting back on trail. Pancakes, bacon, eggs, good hot coffee, anything your heart desired!
We debated back and forth after no Trail Angels, No Uber Drivers, or Lyft drivers answered our need for a ride. The guys were still sorting it out when I decided just to start walking and put my thumb out. Just a quarter mile later Jeff (trail angel) and 3 other hikers stopped and picked me up in a big diesel truck. I was on my way to the trailhead!
I was excited to start again, the temps were great and the wind was blowing. Nothing like the nightmare heat it could be. I trekked on, through the rolling hills between the wind turbines, just enjoying the vast views. I took a break after reaching a road walk and stopped for a snack.
Soon Paul and Sissyphus came rolling up with big smiles on “Hey man!” we both exclaimed! The three of us trekked on together as the other fellas decided to skip the “boring” mile section. By then the heat started coming on and we echanged stories about back home as we walked along the interstate. After a mile or so, the trail turned towards the moutnain on single track and it was time to get after it. Up and up we went. About half way the boys took a break from the heat and I kept kicking for the top. After about 3 miles of nice uphill grade and a cool advantaging wind I found the top. The wind seemed to gather the perfume from all the purple lupin in an entire field and brought the scent to our noses. It was a nice change to the usual hiker funk! Soon after I stopped, the fellas joined me in a nice break!
We rolled through the rest of the terrain on our own. Up dirt roads, twisting through songle track. At one point I met a cool couple on their honeymoon. It sure was nice to meet all the interesting people out here!
The miles melted away and finally I was on the last descent of the day as the golden hour took over. Views were incredible and expansive, and I just took them in as I rolled the remaining trail to camp. There I found a whole load of hikers along whith Paul and Sissyphus. We greated, filtered water, cooked, stretched, and were in our beds in under an hour. Hikers live by the sun, in bed at sundown, up and moving at sunup. What a great day!
Hiker Profile:
Queso and Husk: A couple of thru hikers just slackpacking on a nice section of trail. I met them, sitting on the bench, in no hurry to go anywhere, taking in the views and enjoying the weather while it lasts. Its hard not to smile out here!
Popeye and Trex: On their Honeymoon after a recent marriage. They were both from Oklahoma to begin with. Trex moved to LA where she lived for 29 years. They met and held a long distance relationship for 6 years. Once Popeye retured and the kids moved out, Trex moved back home and they were now married. Taking on the PCT with big smiles and hopes for the future!
The wind lightly caressed my tent all night. Not sure why, but I woke without being fully rested. It was time to move and I had light hopes of making it to Tehachepi by the end of the day. Just a cool 29 miles away.
In the middle of the night at 9:45pm and again at 1:15am I heard people passing my tent, nighthiking the flat open desert section afraid of the heat (which was nonexistant). I chose to hike it in the day and packed up and rolled out with a surprisingly light pack as I was working on my last day of food.
I soon met Poke and Spicy from South Africa. We chatted as we hiked town the flat trail with windmills towering above. They had been all over the world, trekking together and this was just another trip for them. We came across Fairweather, hiking on with some hurt feet just before the first water resupply.
We all topped up on water and I stopped for a snack. They pressed on and I got in the solo mood and started hammering. I passed the new friends and trekked through the hills making it to the next water resupply where I found a few other hikers gatheringwater from the shallow creek. The next few miles twisted and winded through the mountains, until I came to a large dropoff preceeding the last big gain of the day.
Up and on I went, my favortie kind of trail. The gain was good, the views incredible, and I soon came upon Fig Papa having a tough time heading up the grade. He was distraught about his bother forgetting to send him a new pair of shoes to Tehachapi Post Office and the ones on his feet were well beyond their life. His feet were pretty done, but grin and bearing it, he knew there was 10 more miles to go to the road. We stopped briefly at a trail magic oasis at mile 549 to rest the feet and chat with other hikers. I then pressed on the next 10 miles alone.
It was all down hill and my feet were pretty beat, but the scenery made up for it. Wild flowers came out to play and the cool weather made it all worth while. I finally reached the trailhead where Happy Feet was hanging out in his FJ with a huge smile on his face. We chatted and he gave Mike, Paul, Sisyphus, and myself a ride to Tehachapi. We stopped at the Red BBQ place and gorged on some incredibly good food. Wow is all I can say, if you are ever in town, make the stop! The owner Mimi let us camp out back for free and we took full advantage. What a great day!
Hiker Profile:
Spicy & Poke: From South Africa, a married couple that traveled the world together. They were both climbers, hikers, and all around adventurers. They had recently sold their house and bought a new one in Capetown which they rented out for this trip. Leavin their cat to their brother and their computer programming jobs behind. They hit the trail excited to see what the PCT had to offer. They were taken it back by the beauty and diversity of the desert thus far, every day brought something new to the table. They were both eager for the Sierras although a little unsure of the snow as they had not much experience with it. Both out there, smiling, enjoying the journey as it came!
Alarm blasting, waking up with a wet bag, and going through the motions. It was 41 days in and I most definitly wasn’t tired of waking up and getting the chance of walking all day and taking in the views.
I headed out, soon stopping at a dirt road that lead to a cistern. It was said there was a dead snake in the water, at this point I was going for it. Sticks and bottles with their tops cut off laid near the opening. Apparently the method was to tape a bottle on a stick dipping it in the water to extraxt your portion.
Soon Sisyphus and the boys came walking down the hill after I was nearly done. Sisyphus employed a new method, he bent down sticking his whole body into the opening of the cistern and dipped out water by hand. He also went as far to pull the snake out, what a guy! I thought it was funny that is was him (Sisyphus) to pull out the snake that died obviously by drowning after attempting frutaly to escape it’s inevitable death. . .
After, we all trekked on, and what a beautiful trek! We rolled through the hills and the light shone through, soon the hills opened up and I could see the dry desert below. “Bring on the heat”, I thought! The beautiful meadow I was strolling through reminded me of walking down an Alabama country road. Birds chirping, golden light shining through, it was pretty serene.
Snaking through the next few miles I finally exited at a place called HikerTown where a bunch of other hikers were hanging out. We caught a lift to the diner 4 miles away where I ordered some food and recharged the batteries.
After betting back, chilling, and filling up on water I took off into the flat open desert. After a few miles walking by farm houses and plots of land I found the LA aquaduct, and eventually a huge pipe that feeds it. As I walked along its top I thought of all the peoples water below my feet, looking around seeing not a drop to drink. I bet some never even think of how far their water traveled just to be at the convinience of the flick of a wrist at the kitchen sink.
I trekked a few more miles, enjoying the cool temps and the joshua trees all around. My feet were tired and I found a nice spot to hunker down. Tent up, food in my belly, I layed down to rest, pretty happy with the days work behind me!
Hiker Profile:
Snake Patrol – From Saskatchewan Canada, hee had just graduated college and never had gone backpacking before in his life, before the PCT. He graduated in Mechanical Engineering and did some interships in his home city. Hopefully hell get a fulltime job post PCT where his gilfriend lives. Hes always been into some kind of sports, and played american football for all 4 years in high school as a tight end. He plans to get back onto his hockey team as soon as he gets back, and has really enjoyed hiking it with his best mate from school, Bakster.
I woke a little later than usual. I still felt the stickiness from dew or moisture from a fog that rolled through the night before and expected it on the hike that day. After packing up and walking to the front, breakfast was served! Pancakes and coffee waited anyone who desired them. I was elated and brabbed a plate, ready and hungry.
Knowing a needed to get moving, I said goodbye to the other hikers and grabbed my bag starting the 2 mile road walk back to the trail. Before I got tot the first stop sign, Terri and 2 other hikers pulled up asking if I wanted a ride. “Hell yes” came out of me involuntarily. I hopped in, and minutes later was setting foot on trail. I thanked her for the ride and got moving.
The foggy cloud of course awaited me and I welcomed it with open arms. I snaked through the manzanita as the trail gided me through the mountains. Finally after quite a few miles the fog burned off and I could see the views in the distance. Soon Sisiphus caught up to me and we chatted for bit as we trekked on. He was from Holland, and after visiting Californis in his teens, he came back with a bigger adventure in mind.
I waved him on and took a break in the sun, it was snack time and a nice chicken burrito satisfied my desire. I looked north, to the desert, knowing full well that i would be down in the furnace the next day. Enduring the heat, and hopefully fairing well. The open high desert turned to a canopied forest. It was beautiful with little strands of light finding their way through the leaves of the trees. I snaked my way though.
After playing a game of treasure hunt for a water cistern at Sawmill Camp I got back on the trail and headed on. The miles at the end of the day sometime seem hardest. I think its mainly for the bloode gorged feet that have been pounded for the last 20+ miles that are pleading for help. I gave them no relief, and kept hiking. I soon found Sisyphus, Paul, and Mike, setting up camp for the night. I paused and we chatted before I pushed the last mile and a half to Bear Trail Camp. I was tired, and glad to be there. So were my feet, especially when I finally released them from their shoe prison. Whew man, a big fbut fun one!
Hiker Profile:
Fig Papa (John): From Rhode Island, he pressionally sails boats for a living. Everwhere from 10 foot skippers to 100 foot yachts, he serves clients by racing their beastly masterpieces all over the world. He loves that fact that he is land locked on trail. Here on the PCT he is as far as could be from any boat or boat talk. Really taking a break from it all!
All eyes were set on Casa De Luna. A group of us wanted to get there and my 2 buddies Lucas and Bones wanted to attempt the 24-24-24 Challenge. Like most challenges, they made no sence and you were required to make an ass of yourself and prove your worth as a hiker, or a man, or something like that. The test was to walk from Hiker Heaven to Casa De Luna, a distance of 24 miles, while consuming 24 beers, and completing this feat within 24 hours. Did I mention this is all on the DL?!
I of course agreed to go along and babysit as the voice of reason. Honestly to get some good pics and video of the whole thing! We set out, stopping at the grocery store where both fellas loaded up with 24 beers and we were off. They cracked the first beer where Section D started, and we were off. We chatted as they went, took the pictures, video interviews of course. Both seemed pretty confident and dedicated, only 2 beers in of course.
We finally got off the road and back onto dirt trails. WE rekked on with a good pace. Bones had sent his food forward to Casa De Luna, Lucas decided to carry everything. I was surprised at how quick they still moved. The fog was waiting in the moutins for us and soon engufed us as it did me the day before.
They drank on and we chatted about all kinds of subjects. Eight miles in we took our first break and it seemed like a huge portion of hiker heaven had been released. WE saw at least 20 peopel come through all buzzing about the challenge, everyone in good spirits. They had drank 10 beers before 10 am and were pretty proud. The fog burned off and I new the hardest part of the day awaited us.
The sun started beaming down and we walked on. The laughter and chattiness wore off as they approached beer #16, and I knew they both needed to drinlk wter, I forced them both the chug half a liter. WE hiked on and the gain stared to pick up as we did. Lucas got this idea in his head about the perfect place to hang out and relax for a few hours while trying to have a few more beers from the sun. Ever tried to be the voice of reason to a guy 16 beers in? Let me save you the time, dont try!
It became pretty obessed in his mission, and after me asking him to take a 5 minute break while I take care of busniness of my own, he delaired it wasn’t personal and pressed on. At this point I deemed they were on their own. I found them a few miles later, huddles up in the spot he recalled. Crushed beer cans and a look of relaxed pride after finding his paradise was across Lucases face, Bones was indinfferent. I walked in chatting for a few and finally said y goodbyes to finsih out the last 7 miles of the day.
By the end I caught up to Fugi and Dino (Silver Fox), and I could feel the miles in the bulding of my feet. I was ready to be done. We walked out of the trail, surprosed to find Nancy Pants, a trail Angel, waiting to give us a ride to Casa De Luna! What a treat!
We arrived, and there were tons of hikers. The manaznita forest out back where we all camped was the most impressive bit. After a hug to Terri (she owned the place), a borrowed hawaiian shirt, and some free taco salad dinner I was set. It ws such a nice positive vibe and everyone was happy to be there, a great day indeed!
Trail Angel: Nancy Pants – lived in the town and loved hikers, being one herself. She enjoyed being recieved as someone’s joy at the end of a long day with a free ride and a smile!
I woke wet and damp. It wasnt dew, but something finer, and once I got out of my tent I could see what it was. A fog had covered the surrounding mountains and its humidity must be the cause of the wetness. I got up, packed up, and hiked out of the KOA.
I hiked up and into the fog and it was delightful! At first I thought it would be irritating, but it wasnt cold and the wind wasnt howling. I hiked on and up into a landscape that held large rocks with formations that reminded me of a creek bed.
I saw a coyote stop me, leap from his morning rest spot and take off, tearing up the hill. It was some of the better wildlife I had seen so far! I kept snaking through the mountains. Up and up I went until I was fully engulphed by the cloud. Once I peaked the ridge, I could hear a roar from a road below. I wasnt exactly sure what highway it was, and I couldnt see it, but I could hear it through the thick blanket.
I decended further until I could make out the road and the valley below with the trail leading to it. Soon I met Apineglo, a bearded man in a kilt, from Canada. He was a funny guy and didnt have trouble pirting out obsenities, like water from a spigot. WE trekked on, chatting together and soon safter hiking through a tunnnel, beneath the road we saw incredibe area of rocks that were molded by water and air.
We kept treking in snapping pictures left and right before climbing up the hill on the other side and heading further towards Auga Dulce. WE passed Vasquez Rocks, a pklace with incredible formations. It so happen to also be a site where part of Blazing Sadles was filmed!
After the rocks, we walked a few miles by road into town. WE sat together chatting on while eating breakfast at an open diner. I headed over to the grocery, grabbed my resupply, and headed towards hiker heaven. Once there Sidetrail gave me the rundown of the place. They had laundry, shower, charging stations, computer to use, tv and a ton of movis, plenty of space to camp, and even trimmers to cut your hair if you needed! It was pretty awesome!
After making a quick Lyft run to REI, I returned triumphant with a new pair of shoes, new baselayer, and new sox! Fresh clothes and a shower, it really is the little things in life! Later that night I grabbed some wood and a bunch of us started a fire in the pit. One of the guys who volunteed at the place came over asking if we had asked for permission. The logs and an empty pit was more than permission for me, but then and there I was named Fire Marshall. Apparently I was in charge of extingushing the flame at the end of the night and I could tell anyone to go to bed. Hahha, laughs ensued and people joked about making it my trail name. It wouldnt be the first, and im certain not the last.
I woke to the sound of electricity buzzing in the air above the camground. The large powelines that rose overhead ran from the Fire House too the street below. Like every morning, it was time to move. I hiked on and up the hill on my own leaving the group behind. The rolling hills before me were nice and I enjoyed the gain.
On I pushed until finding a beautiful cloud covering the entire valley below and the moutain tops were the only things that poked through. It was like looking at huge sea monsters moving through the deep sea. I hiked on greeting the Gazel Boys (4 guys who grouped together from the first day at Scout and Frotoes) and soon after Cricket. We chatted for a bit for a while as we hiked.
I told her about phoenix and why my shirt was all tattered and torn. We hiked on and further, and the gain started to pick up and I pressed on. Finally I came across an awesome overlook from a saddle. One thing I could say is that almost every day seems like a post card on the trail. I soaked it in.
After having a snack I pressed on the next miles and kind of floated as I did. Soon I pulled into the Ranger station where I stopped for water. There were free hotdogs up for grabs. Man we are getting treated so well here! After pressing on I had just 8 miles to the KOA for camp and I seemed to just go into my own head. Taking the gains on as fast as I wanted, and zooming on the downs where my feet would let me.
Finally I came upon the road that lead to the KOA. Coppertone, a trail angel was propped up at the trailhead, but I was too much in a hurry to get to the KOA before it closed at 5pm. Ice cream, a hot shower, and a jacuzzi awaited me after the quick 0.2 mile walk. I posted up, and was pretty content overall. The group started trickling in slowly and I slipped away to check email and do some administrative work before settling in for the night. Another great day!
Hiker Profile:
Cricket – Early 20’s from Houston Texas who moved to Readding CA. She Trail Angeled for PCT hikers in northern Cali from time to time before finally deciding to make the move herself to take on the huge adventure. She had ripped her first shirt, lost her Anker charger in the first week, and seemed to be taking it all in stride. Her shoulders were burnt from the new dress she baught to maek up for the shirt. She enjoyed trekking outdoors and was very interested in Wildlife Biology. Perhaps she’ll persure it after Canada.
The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire . . . – Rock Master Scott & the Dynamic Three
I woke, early as usual. I could still hear the creek just campside gurgling away. It was time to move! I went through the morning routine and was soon standing with my coffee, leaving camp, waving bye to those who were up, and woundering if those still snuggled in their bags were going to sleep in.
I pressed on, after stopping to put my hoody away when Amanda caught up to me. I had met her briefly in Wrightwood and again the night before, but this was the first time we ever actually got to chat. We rambled on as we walked and I asked about where she came from, which I was happy to sit back and listen to as we hiked up and out of the valley.
The views were gorgeous, and we took in the morning light. Soon we came upon Camp Glenwood where we stopped to rest and grab water. Soon the rest of the gang showed up! There were free post cards including postage on a post board nearby and I grabbed one to send out (you’ll find out who you are soon enough). We chatted and snacked before leaving the nice small camp.
I trekked out with Lucas and we chatted as we went rolling through the hills, heading up through the high desert and the pines. It was a really nice day and we bobbed from road crossing to road crossing. Finally we all started to split off into our little bubbles trekking through the landscape. Cool Runnings caught up to me on the downhill and we chatted as we went. He told me about his service in the military and his maintenance on Helos. I told him about my time as an Engineer in the repair and overhall plant in Phoenix I had done. We laughed at the small connection you find in unexpected places.
We came upon Lucas chilling under a tree, and soon took a quick break before pushing on and up through the brush laced trail to the pines above and eventually a beauful saddle that overlooked the valley west. We all took a break, eating lunch and enjoying a little down time.
Ready to press on after some good snack, we hiked down the last few miles to the Fire House. The words Beer and Pizza were all it took to bring most of us running! Doug, a hiker, was there just handing out free food to anyone interested, asking no thanks in return. We thanks him anyway. We mashed down and hiking just a little further down to camp. There we stretched, ate, joked on about thai ramen, and the 24-24-24 challenge (more info to come), and things we had seen on trail. It was a solid day, everyone was in good spirits and the views of course were incredible.
Hiker Profile:
Amanda – 33, from Portland, hiking with her dad who just so happened to qualify for the Boston Marathon. She has her Bachelors from Portland State in Hearing and Speech Therapy and did some shadowing all while working as a waitress as Ruth Criss. She loves helping those in need and is excited to go back to grad school once completing the PCT.
Lucas – 20s, Lucas is a funny character. Funny in that he always seems to have a look on his face that he is pondering something deep written across his face if you aren’t speaking to him directly. When you do speak with him he is funny, chatty, and on a mission of his own. He can trek fast and hard. He attempted the PCT in 2017 which was brought to a hault by fired in Oregon and Washington. After coming off trail he found it hard to readust coming so close to finishing. He’s back this year with a lot of energy and vigor for cleaning up the unfinished business he has.
Cool Runnings, Madalyn, Lucas, and myself woke early in the morning to meet Madalyn’s Uncle Matt, who lived intown and offered to give us a ride at 6am. The day before (Day 34), we all decided to take a full zero and recover. It was well needed. Plus we watched Cool Runnigs and Austin Powers (lil throw back 90s action). So once matt arrived we all piled into the truck and we were off.
The morning was chilly and getting going was like brushing dust off an old tractor that had been sitting in a field for 10 years. The views were great though and we snaked through the landscape quicky until finally finding the start of the uphill to Mt Baden Powell. It wasn’t killer gain, but with 4 days food resupply and water to get me and ther 10 miles, it was energy draining!
It wasn’t as steep as the push to Mt. Baldy just 2 days before, but for some reason my body was still trying to shake off the dust. I pressed on, up the switchbacks one by one. About 3/4 of the way up, I ran out of gas and had to start pushing will my will alone. After some good grunts and groans, I topped the windy peek to find and american flag, gorgeous views, and Luke playing the Ukulele.
I sat and took it in, looking back to where we were days before. Really stellar views! We chatted on as everyone arrived, and dispersed just the same. It seemed it was a day of every man for himself, and I was alright with that.
I hiked the next miles through the landscape, glacing on to the distance and really enjoying it. At one point I met Luke on a stellar trailside rest stop overlooking a cloud covered valley. I joined him, and we chatted about all kinds of things.
It was time to push on, and the next few miles melted away. I finally was stopped when we came to an endagered species trail closure and had to road walk. Bones joined me for a bit and we chatted before making it to Buckhorn Campground where there was a big group of PCTers and a couple of trail angels cooking up hotdogs for everyone. Man what a nice treat!
We chowed down and decided to walk on a bit further down the trail and not to get sucked into the camp. Sometimes its nice to be in a big group, but sometimes a smaller group on a backcountry campsite with a gurgling creek is whats needed. Thats just what we found, just 2 miles ahead. Luke was sitting in camp, chilling. Bones and I, and eventually Amanda, Hannah, Cameron, Madalyn, and Cool Runnings trickled in. We all hung out, ate dinner, did stretches, and hit the bed. A good day indeed!
I woke up early, packed up, and got my butt moving, I was hoping to hike from our camp to Hwy 2 and catch a hitch into Wrightwood before everything closed down at 5pm. It was only 13 miles away, but the challenge was doing the 7.5 side trip to the top of Mt Baldy and back and also finishing the 13. Needless to say I was moving.
There was and awesome cloud looming over the San Bernadino Mountains to the East. I snapped pictures as I trekked on. The only person I saw that morning was Eagle, he was doing his thing solo and I wasnt about to disturb him. A dull pain started up in my left knee as I hiked through the morning. I told myself that it would go away, but it persisted. It would start up like an orchestra tuning a D string, and fade as they found the note. It wasn’t sharp, or quick, just a dull roar. I trekked on until finding my tunoff.
I dropped down onto the road below, set up my tent, stashed all my gear except my bag, some water, and a snack. I started hiking down further to the saddle just before the trail took off, upwards, towards Pine Mountain (first of 2 summits before baldy). The gain was unforgiving and hardy.
Up and up I went , until finally finding the top of Pine and I could see all the way to Mt Baldy, and I understood the full extent of the trek I bit off. The trail dipped far down between the saddles of the peaks and I would have to regain all I lost just to get to the next. There was no other way, I was commited. Off I went.
Finally I reached the 2nd peak, Dawsons Peak. It had a register and I saw someone comment “now to regain 1200 ft to Mt Baldy”. “Oh goody”, I said. I thought back to Phoenix and Squaw peak having similar gain and how every Friday Pete Kennedy, Dane Butow, and I would meet and race each other to the top after work. Shoving elbows and talking trash, we would edge each other on, until redlining the heartbeat and leaving it pinned there until finally we reached summit and gasped for air.
Dane and Pete weren’t physically there that day, but they hiked that last hard push with me. I pressed hard, sweating, heart pumping, until finally by almost some miricle the gain stopped and I reached the top.
The views were great! I met Zack and John at the top and we chatted for a bit. After snacks and a break I said goodbye and headed back. Finally after a few grueling hours I had returned to my trail stash. Once back, Kevin, a day hiker, seemed to appear from nowhere. We chatted for a bit before he took off up the hard gain to Pine Mountain.
I hiked the final miles to the highway exhausted for the most part. I walked to the road and stuck my thumb out. Not but 5 minutes and a black SUV pulled to the side of the road and opened a door for me. Zack, his gilfriend and 2 dogs greeted me and we chatted as we drove to Wrightwood.
I had finally arrived, soon found the Moutnain Hardware store, food, and a group of PCTers that I ended up staying with in town. It was a good long day and I was beat. Not too beat to go out for a 2nd dinner and some beers in town with the guys, but definitly beat.
Day Hiker Profile:
Zack, John – I met these guys at the top of Baldy. Super nice and hooked me up with a little extra water so I could get back to my trail stash (I had slightly underestimated the gain and wanted a lil extra as backup).
Kevin – Nice guy from LA, clean cut, instagramer that liked to bag peaks from different trailheads.
Trail Angel:
Travis – Super nice guy with his girlfriend, puffing on some grape flavored vape, and sporting a shaggy curly yellow mane. They were locals and worked at the zip line place in town.
I woke up to a very wet tent. The condensation from my breath and the dew of the morning settled on my fly. It made putting my tent away feel like putting on wet underwear. Not very fun!
Never the less, I was up and moving down the trail taking in the views. I had little expectations as we neared interstate 15. I thought we would be just looking at and listening to a roaring highway the whole time. Instead the trail decended a beautiful flowing rollercoaster through the landscape, and it was so awesome!
The views were stellar and we dropped further down into a small canyon until finally just before being spit out on the side of the I15. There was a McDonolds just 0.4 miles away and we had all (there was a group of 15 PCT hikers all camped together) chatted about meeting up there for breakfast. We were all eager to see who woud take on the McDonald’s Challenge. It was Sean who stepped up to the plate.
The McDonalds Challenge was born when a guy resupplied his food with soley McDoubles for 90 miles. Since then its been modified a bit here and there. For the most part people try to make it to Wrightwood, just 28 miles away (and a lot of uphill) only on the fast food gooodness. Sean was stepping up to the plate with 10 cheese burgers and 2 McChickens. He ordered them all without condiments so that he could add his own later in hopes that the burgers would keep longer.
After bidding him good luck I headed back out to the trail. The sun was up, and after cresting a nice ridge I met Dino who sported a big smile and a salt and pepper beard. He was packing out a few burgers himself. I had too much food as it was and didnt want to risk the stomache issues. I pressed on up and over the ridge coming down the other side to a nice water cash. I sat down, pulled off my shoes, performed surgery on a thorn that had been in my foot from the day before, grabbed some grub, and grabbed an extra liter of water. The next push up the hill to come was going to be a good one.
As soon as I stood to leave, Dino and Jenn (the woman I met in Mission Springs a week back) walked up. We chatted about the lack of water in the miles to come and how it wasnt going to be easy. I said goodbye and pressed on.
The next few miles were great! All uphill and on a perfect grade. Up and up I went. Fueled by ramen, pringles, and gushers I hiked to my hearts content. The trail snaked and swirled and I took in the views and enjoyed every step.
inally around the 9th mile of the consistant gain, I met back up with Jelly Bones, Madalyn, and Fuji (a new friend I just met). We chatted and laughed about the McDonald’s episode and about Wrightwood to come. I pressed on just 1/2 mile more to a nice flat camp. Eagle, Jelly Bones, Madalyn, Windbreaker, and a few others rolled into camp. Food, stretches, bed, and lights out for me. What a nice day, beautiful views, great trail, and lots of laughs.
Hiker Profile:
Sean – Early 30s, from Seattle. Chose to take on the McDonald’s Challenge with 10 cheese burgers and 2 McChickens. A true legend of the day!
Alex and Michael – 28, best friends for 22 years. Roommates, not only in life, just also on the trail. 2 bros, hiking it out, sharing a tent.
Fuji – 30s, From Holland, working at a travel company designing pamphlet porfolios. She coordinated, selected, and refined photoes for places of interest. Ever seen a pamphlet for a city or vacation destination? She was the lady behind the scenes, working hard to bring you the product. After have lived in California for a year or so as a teenager, she decided it was the PCT to bring her back and really explore the state.
The best surprises are the ones you never see coming.
I woke early, went through the routine, and before long I was standing, admiring the sunrise with my pack on my back and a cup of coffee in my hand. Not a bad way to start the day.
Jelly Bones and Madalyn had just rolled out of their tents and I waved goodbye as I headed down the trail. The morning was cool, but not cold, and I figured the today would be a bit warm. I headed down the switchbacks and across the open lot before coming face with my first fording oppertunity. It wasnt bad, pulled my shoes off and filtered water as I crossed. Before long I was hiking back up into the mountians.
The trail skirted the west side of the San Bernadino Mountains and the views over the valley inundated with farms was pretty nice. I soon came up on Eagle, a German, chilling next to a small creek. I stopped, chatted, gathered water before Madalyn and Jelly Bones came rolling through.
It was time to trek, we three got back to the usual froghopping theme and pushed the next miles quickly. Just before the Silverwood Lake dam Madalyn pulled off to wait for Bones, I pressed on. The temps started getting warmer as I climbed until finally cresting over the hill and getting slapped in the face with views of Silverwood Lake.
What a paradise in the desert! I skirted the lake taking in the views until finally pulling into a pavilion at the far end of the lake. Some other hikers had ordered beer and pizza!!! What a treat! I grubbed down, gathered water and took a quick swim before getting moving again.
We all (there were at least 10 or so hikers) pressed on in tiers, taking the next 7 miles in stride as they meandered through the manzanita and sage brush maze. I finally reached camp, scouted a decent spot and set up. Soon the other hikers trickled in, plenty of room for all! After a good meal and stretching I found myself in the tent chilling out after another great day!
Hiker Profile:
Eagle – From Berlin, Germany. He has done a few long distance trails in the Germany, including the circumference around Berlin and a trail through the Alps. He loved the huge size of the US and wanted to try a big thru hike.
There was frost covering my tent. I woke cold and with the hood of my sleeping bag sintched down around my face. It was time to move. I kicked my Jetboil on, boiling water for coffee and started packing up.
I was soon on my feet trekking down the trail, blowing into my hands, hoping that the feeling would return to my numb fingers. Finally the sunlight warmed me and thawed me out as I winded through the pines.
I came to the Holcomb creek and took a break, snacking and filtering water. Soon, to my surprise, Madalyn and Jelly Bones rounded the corner. We chatted about the miles to come and the water resupply. Soon I was back on my feet saying goodbye.
After a few miles I came across a Canadian couple who I had met the day before. Soon madalyn came screaming by, she had a good pace! I said goodbye after snapping their picture and took off. For the next miles Madalyn, Jelly Bones, and I leap frogged as we hiked out of the pines into the granite boulder speckled landscape.
We pressed on together until finding a bridge with a nice creek below. I walked down, pulled off my shoes, and sat on a log in the middle of the creek, feet plunged in. Once lunch and the break was over, I said goodbye to the girls and headed out.
The trail hugged the side of a canyon with Deep Creek at the bottom cascading down as it dropped. After snaking through the valley I took another break. The girls soon turned the corner and we resumed the leapfrogging.
We hiked past the hot springs, where there was an overwhelming crowd of nude guys hanging out in the pools. Welp I could have done without that mental image!
We trekked further down the canyon, until finally, as the sun set, we came to a trailside camp.
Hiker Profile:
Madalyn & Jelly Bones
They met in Frezno, both from Santa Cruz. Madalyn went to college at NYU for Environmental Science and Jelly Bones went to a college in Vermont studying Film and Biology. They both dabbled in climbing and hiking. They had both recently graduated and saved up deciding to hike the PCT together.
The alarm blasted, it was time to go. Izzie had been trekking with me for the last week, the time seemed to fly by. So fast that it seemed as though the day for her to head home had come way too soon. None the less, she gathered her things and we were soon both walking towards the bus stop just behind Vons.
Coffee in hand, it seemed as though we perfectly timed it. Not but a few minutes after arriving, the bus pulled up. We said our goodbyes and she boarded. I wasnt ready for her to go, but I knew I had a lot of miles ahead of me that weren’t going to walk themselves. I waved bye through the bus window as it pulled away. Turning, I headed to Vons to grab a food resupply.
After stocking up I headed back to the hotel, finished some administrative work, and packed up. I was ready to hit the trail. All morning my head seemed to be in a fog, perhaps it was too much coffee, perhaps it was not being used to beer I drank the night before. I sluggishly walked across town, back to he north side of Big Bear Lake arriving at the Couger Crest Trailhead.
Nauseated, I started to climb. The only thing I could think to do was just keep moving. I ascended, half in a daze. I soon reached my tent stash and packed it all up. After forcing a quick snack down my throat I just started walking. I feared that if I stop I might yak, and I didn’t have the time or the water to deal with that.
I walked the ridgeline, taking in the views when I could. It wasn’t until a few hours of dazed walking that the lathergic feeling finally faded. Somehow I had already walked 5 PCT miles and my stomache began to come back to life. I stopped and ate, chugged water, and tried to shake off the queeziness.
The next few miles were better. An awesome could inversion hung over the valley to the west, and I could finally appreciate the expansive views. I trekked on, soon finding myself at Little Bear Trail Camp. Shadow was there, already setting up camp. He had a bit of a belly that you could see under his black shirt. He had a few seemingly random tatoos on this forearms and legs. He had a small blue moon tattoed jut below his left eye and seemed to be missing his left front tooth. He seemed to train himself to try and cover it up by not smiling too big or pronouncing certain words. He seemed nice enough chatting as I walked up. I said hello, set up my tent, and went through the nightly routine. My stomach had settled, thank god!
Madelyn, Jelly Bones, Shadow, Greg joined the ranks of Little Bear Trail Camp as I sat and cooked my dinner of Knorr and mashed potatoes. We all chatted and ate dinner until 7, when we all retired to our tents. I was ready for a good night’s sleep!
It was time to go into town! There was no real rush as Izzie and I couldn’t check into the hotel until 3pm. I figured we would mosey on down just in time to grab a burger for lunch. We got moving, in no hurry, packing up camp and making coffee.
We easily trekked the 1 mile to the cutoff for Big Bear Lake and I stashed my 1 man tent, along with my sleeping bag, sleeping pad, and 4 liters of water up on the ridge. This would save me from carying a good 13 pounds of weight back up to the ridgeline. Slackpakcing? Maybe, but it was just more efficient than lugging all the stuff down and back up.
After dropping the ridge and cicling the lake we came into town. We stopped off at Get The Burger for a tasty burger, fries, and cold beer. It was a little pricey, but was just the thing needed to hit the spot!
We headed to the hotel, checked in, got clean, and scrubbed our clothes in the sink. After hanging out to dry for a bit, we were ready to hit the town! We headed towards Big Bear Village, where we ended up stopping at the Social Bar & Grill. They had some pretty good live music and we hung out for a bit. So long in fact that we ended up staying for dinner!
We headed back to the hotel. The next day Izzie was to get on a bus headed to town so she could catch a flight bound for Washington. I would once again be hiking on solo. It was a good day, nice to finally get clean for once, and really enjoy the small things Big Bear had to offer.
Life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.– Ferris Bueller’s Day Off
The day before was a nice big one, Izzie and I didn’t plan to but ended up hiking 19 miles to camp. So this morning we both moved like slugs and with all the additional miles we were only 6 miles from our dropoff into Big Bear so there was no rush.
It became a Lake day! We got up, packed up camp, and hiked down the trail through the wandering pines. Just 5 miles later we found a nice camp spot and set up for the night to come. Packing only food and water for the day we day hiked down towards the Lake for a nice lazy day (and much needed lake bath)!
We didn’t see many people until heading down the Cougar Crest Ridge Trail. Until then all we saw were lizards and a few red breasted woodpeckers. Pretty sweet seeing the wildlife. Once we hit the junction we started to see day hikers and PCTers.
We happily headed down the trail, taking in the sights of Big Bear Lake ahead. Before heading for our destination we stopped by the discovery center, filled up water and learned about the local wildlife.
After the center we finally arrived at the lake and the wind was blowing pretty good. It wasn’t cold, but with the wind you needed a jacket. We both braved the water and after acclimating to its temps we were grateful.
Chilling out and relaxing to appreciate small things off the trail is just as important as the PCT itself. We packed up, and hiked back up the hill to camp. Another great day! Tomorrow, Big Bear to resupply! I can taste the burgers already!
The human’s best survival quality is his ability to adapt.
The alarm blasted its insistent ring, letting us know it was time to start the day. We started the day without big expectations really, we figured we would just hike and see how far we got.
The first miles of the day were relaxed compared to the day before. Nice settle downhill through a pine valley all the way to a cool creek at mile 258. All the pain in my hips from the day before was totally gone. Maybe I just needed to break back into the backpacking groove!
On our way to the spring we kept leap frogging some of our camping neighbors from the night before. That’s when we met Kevin and Trout. Kevin went to school in Birmingham AL, an area where I had actually spent some time. Soon after meeting Kevin, Trout ran up and without introducing himself began to regale us all the tale of his runin with a scorpion . . . I’ll let his Hiker Profile tell the rest.
Once arriving at the 258 creek we ran into Mayo and Greyscale who we happily chatted with and learned they were both doctors and asked quite a few more questions about Sweden and how they came to meet. We sat by the trickling cool creek and enjoyed the break in the pines.
After filling up on water we pressed on, the gain became hardy again and it finally eased up once in the wide open high desert area where Joshua Trees started to appear. After trekking in the open desert for a bit we finally stopped to rest below a nice pine for a lunch break. A little Tanager bird chirped away in the branches above.
We pressed on further skirting the mountian and finally getting expansive views of the Lucerene Valley and a piece of the Mojave Desert. Finally we came to Highway 18 where we enjoyed a cool drink from some trail magic and a rest where we met Raider from Austria. He happily chatted, and was super friendly talking about the miles to come and the PCT McDonalds challenge (more to comb on this in future post)!
We said our goodbyes and Izzie and I pressed on, snaking through the hills enjoying the views of the desert and Lake Baldwin. We were halted by the Holcomb Fire closure at Mile 268. Talk about a burn, that area was scorched!We slogged the dirt road climb to bypass, man what a push! We finally met back up with the PCT and started desperately to find a flat spot to camp. After a few miles we finally found camp, a beer that we lugged from the trail magic cooler (thanks to Raider!), and incredible views of the setting sun.
What an unexpectedly nice big day!
Hiker Profile:
Trout – 20s, told us of the tale (from a few days before) where he was stung in the penis by a scorpion. He was filtering water 3 miles into his hike, when the arthropod crawled into his shorts and stung him. Only 15 miles later with a swollen situation, he exited the trail to get assistance.
Kevin – 30s/40s, grew up in ATL, went to UAB at Birmingham for Engineering. He moved to San Diego where he worked as a quality engineer for a small production plant. He saw the movie Wild and figured “I can’t let that bitch Reese Witherspoon show me up”. He took a leave of absence and started hiking!
It’s a funny thing to think about cutting your toothbrush in half, or only carrying 2 pairs of underwear . . . but all those little things start to add up.
I realized it when Nick accidentally brought a car camping tent instead of my 2 man backpacking tent for Izzie and I to use. Honest and easy mistake, especially when so many other things were being stuffed in the car (and the tents are the same color). My point is simply the weight difference in the tents (I ended up borrowing Sam’s car camping tent) really seemed to make an impact. I felt the weight on my back, so bad it started to cut into my hipbones. First time I had that issue in 240 miles.
Aside from me crying about gear weight, it was an awesome day! We woke, and had a pretty lax morning, getting on the trail after 8. I was happy to get moving and we pushed over the first hill. We wandered through the San Bernadino Mountains switchbacking up a ridge and down the other side. Every time we came close to the west end of a ridge we could see the snow capped San Gorgonio staring at us. As we neared the east side of the ridge, Palm Springs and the desert to its north came into view. Happy we weren’t down in the 100 degree desert heat, we hiked on.
After a few miles of beautiful mountains we came across an animal cage. It house 2 grizzly bears and a tiger. It stated on the map notes that they were used for films. A strange find in the middle of nowhere. We peered in, the 2 grizz paced back and forth, needing a larger space. The tiger lounged around, not looking too bothered.
Yup, that’s a grizz!
Tiger sniffing the air
We pressed on, up the next ridge, and the pines began to change. Huge Junipers began to come into view, they were great and massive with red shredded bark and dark green leaves. Then we started to notice the mistletoe in the branches. Izzie told me it was a parasitic plant and that it would take over the tree by transferring its seeds through an explosive expulsion which just spread to other surrounding trees. I could imagine it eventually taking over.
Twisted junipers
Mistletoe taking over
Finally after a long day carrying a full resupply and a little extra weight we found ourselves at camp. We set up, and enjoyed the remaining sunlight before crashing out like tranquelized wildebeests. A really good but tiring day.
Hiker Profile:
Greyscale (Walter) & Mayo (Emily): A couple who lived in Sweden, but came out for the PCT. Mayo was originially from Cali, but now lives in Sweden happily with Greyscale. It was her dream to trek the trail, and Greyscale came for support. He started with her in Campo Ca and would continue until Big Bear where he would fly home and Mayo would continue on to hopefully finish the trail.
Izzie and I woke early, made coffee, and hit the trail before the sun hit us. Our aim for the day was to top Mount San Gorgonio standing at 11,503 ft.
We pressed on in the early morning glow with just day packs that were light as a feather compared to the usual boulstering backpacks. We found ourselves at the traihead and started out.
The trail was faint at best to start and several times we got off track, on a wash that looked like a trail until we realized it went nowhere. I pulled out my phone and checked the GPX, we were way off! We circled around and finally found ourselves on an established trail and started trekking. Rounding a bend we saw a nice large meadow lay off to the right and a small creek trickled trailside. Suddenly, three deer, startled by us, headed up towards the top of the hill far from sight.
Perfectly good signage!
We pressed on, finding Fish Creek just before slathering on sunscreen and leaving the protection of the trees into the sun drenched hillside. The gain was on! We headed up and on switchback after switchback until finally seeing the snow covered Gorgonio, standing proud.
After a quick break we climbed further up the side of Gorgonio and finally into some heavy switchbacks. Snow caked the trail and we kicked in steps as we went. After rounding the south side of the mountain we reached the final switchback! The end was near and we were both a little tired from the push. By this point the trees were now shrubs, and nothing but large granite boulders and chipmunks lived up here. The constant gain finally let up to the summit, we rejoiced and celebrated with a much deserved snack and rest!
The views all around were awesome, San Jacinto to the south, Mount Baldy to the west, the Mojave desert to the northeast and Palm Springs to the east. Satisfied with our feat we packed up and headed back down the trail we came, until finally after 20 good miles we arrived at camp ravenous for food and the remaining 2 beers we stashed. Another great day outside!
I was woken up at midnight with Nick, Sam, an Izzie shinning their lights into my tent. I expected them to be in a car, but instead they were on foot. The night before Izzie (girlfriend) flew into Ontario CA, and Nick and Sam (buddies from Phoenix) picked her up from the airport. They drove towards the camp I was staying at just to find a locked gate that stopped their progress and forced them to walk on foot. Six miles and nearly 2000 foot accumilated gain they they found theirselves at the doorstep of my tent.
I was pretty happy to see everyone and we quickly set up camp and crashed out in the chilly 30 degree weather. The next morning we woke late and decided that with most of the supplies back at the car that instead of summiting San Gorgonio, the best plan, was to walk down the mountain back to the car and find a camp for the night. We set up, dropped most of our gear off, and went into Big Bear to be tourists for the afternoon.
I felt like a king, eating, sleeping, and actually bathing, it was a nice experience. After getting back to camp and making a steak and potato dinner I went to bed happy as a clam.
The next day we got up slowly and had an awesome steak, egg, cheese, and potatoe burrito. After handing out for a bit we headed back up the moutnain where Sam and Nick left Izzie and I to fend for ourselves for the rest of the afternoon. We snacked, day hiked, and relaxed, getting ready for the next day attempting a summit bid on Gorgonio.
Resupply time!
Hiker Profile:
Jenn – 60s, Wanted to walk cross country after seeing Forest Gump. It wasnt until she worked in Yellowstone for 4 seasons, that she realized you could cross the country on a trail and not just on roads. She was a retired corrections officer, as was her husband. Once she stated that she wanted to hike the trail, her dusband told her she needs to act her age. After working in Alaska a few seasons her husband started becoming more interested in hiking but still not too keen on her hiking the trail. Despite her insistence, her husband faught her up to the day she left for the PCT, planning was difficult. Husband drop her off at Scissors Crossing, and met her down the trail at Warner Springs. Every time he sees her, he tells her she can leave any time. Finally he started to support, sending food and packages. Shes plans on only hiking to Northern California, taking her time as she goes. Avergaing just 10 miles a day, shes taking her time and enjoying every minute of it!
Whew it was cold last night! Camping at 8000 feet brought on the 30 degree nights. I woke several times, I wasnt sure if it was the cold, my need to go to the bathroom, or my excitement to see my friends Nick,Sam, and girlfriend Izzie who planned on meeting me on the trail later today.
I tossed and turned sintching my bag down around my face so you could only see my mouth and nose. I could lay there any longer as I felt the warm from the sun beaming on my tent walls. I got up and did the usual routine to get paked and eat breakfast.
I was soon walking back down the old logging road towards Mission Spring Trail Camp taking in the expansive views, and for once taking my sweet time strolling along. They were to meet me at the camp 12 hours later just 4 miles away, so I had no hurry. I checked out the Fish Creek trailhead we planned to ascend the next day to the summit of San Gorgonio.
I walked the dirt road back to the camp, chatted with a few passing PCTers. I reached the camp where I met an older fella Walk about Jim. He had 2 dogs with him and was pretty friendly. His cowboy hat had the PCT emblem on the front. I could see some old faded tattoos on his forearms. He sported a few bracelets and a leather pouch around his neck. He was from Tennessee, was out to hike the trail and just taking his time to enjoy it. He didnt seem to have the urgency to hall butt up the trail like some of the younger thru hikers, just seemed to really be taking it all in.
I set up my tent as we chatted for a bit. He packed up and pressed on with his little 2 dogs and his walking stick. Super nice guy! I continued on with my chores: gathering water, getting an ice cold spring bath, gathering wood for the nearby fire pits, and having a little lunch. Now all was left to do was wait, and enjoy the surroundings!
Hiker Profile:
Walk about Jim – 70s? From Tennessee, moved to the suburbs of Chicago for about 20 years before finally coming back to Tenn after his parents heath started to fail them. Before leaving Chicago he hiked and biked the length of the American Discovery trail from Chicago to Venice Beach, which I would imagine planted the seed of long distance adventures. After finally having a heart attack and triple bypass surgery to save his life, he decided it was time to focus on himself for a bit. He planned to hike PCT, CDT, AT (tripple crown). Not an easy undertaking, but with his 2 dogs by his side, he seemed determined. If all else I could tell he just loved being out in nature.
I woke early and got moving! The late start the day before had me a little groggy and unmotivated to press down on the miles, so I figured a presunrise start would do me some good. It was such a nice morning! I was protected down in the canyon from any weather and my only accompanyment was the gurgle from the trailside creek.
I trekked on, passing tent after tent where other PCTers slumbered, it felt really nice to be moving early. Something about watching the golden hour of the sunrise was magical. I rounded a courner and saw Matt, just getting up and starting his coffee. I was in such a good moving mood that I only stayed for a moment before pressing on.
Surprise note from my friend Marcella, what a nice find!!!
The views were awesome, the higher I hiked, the more I could see. Snowcapped hillsides came into view and finally so did a burn area. It had already started to recover, shrubs and low plants were coming through popping with fresh green. A few of the old soldier pines still stood, half burnt, yet keeping the green of their needles, standing big and strong. Most of the other strees were fully burnt, leaving only a hard white skeleton standing upright. A few trees had fallen obstructing the trail and I carefully stepped over the obstacles.
Soon coming into a clearing I saw Jason again. “Hey man!!” He exclaimed when he saw me. We caught up for a few minutes as I gathered some water. After a bit we said farewell and I pressed the final miles up to Mission Springs Trail Camp. What a nice place, a cool spring flowed nearby and pines shaded the area.
I decided to hike up an old logging road to higher ground so perhaps I could get signal and call Nick, who was driving out the next day to meet me. With little luck I had success and got through. After making one or two other calls I pitched my tent and set up for the night. The views from the mount were awesome, I could see San Jacinto, and all the way down into Palm Springs. Another great day!
Hiker Profile:
Pitch & Mustang – A father daughter team coming out of Alberta Canada. Yes, they had an accent, and were super friendly. They told me about the crap winters they have had this season and how it was unseasonably cold and snowey. Mustang had completed a bunch of research on the long distance trails in the US and after seeing that the PCT had the much less rainfall than the AT, she convinced her dad that this was the one. Hiking home, thats gotta be a good feeling and a good motivator to just keep on moving!
I woke and there was only little spurts of wind as opposed to gusts the night before. I was still tucked back in the meadow of the Whitewater Preserve and I wanted to make it a late morning to try and wait out the weather.
I had another small ant catastrophe, I think they got attracted to an empty coffee mug that I used to make Gatorade in. That’s how it goes sometimes. I packed up and did the morning routine, Matt was hanging back too and we hiked out of the Preserve together.
It was hard to get moving this morning for some reason, perhaps it was the lie in I had, or the 5 days of food I was carting around, at any rate the start was slow and sluggish.
The skies were still grey to the north and threatened rain, small spurts splashed us as we hiked across the flat of the Mission Creek floodplain. The trail finally started up a ridge and I was happy to get some gain and a higher view.
The mountains to the north were snowcapped and looking south, San Jacinto was also dusted with snow and shrouded in a thick cloud. We pressed on, taking in the views. I stopped for a moment to hang out on the ridge, Matt pressed on and soon Peanutbutter came hiking up the trail. I said hello and I had just finished my break so I decided to walk with him for a bit.
We chatted as we went up and down the hills, finally peeling off into the valley of Mission Creek which we would meander up until finally coming out at the headwaters, Mission Springs.
Peanutbutter pulled over and I kept on, catching back up to Matt. The valley was beautiful, brought to life by the creek, and guarded on both sides by large ridges, rising up nearly 1000 feet. The green plants and trees clung to the creekside, making a little oasis in the otherwise dry desert.
We kept on, hiking a few more miles, meandering up the canyon before finally finding a nice spot creekside with a big sandy pad. I plopped my stuff down, set up my tent, and got ready for dinner. I couldn’t think of a better place, the creek was gurgling, the temps were nice, and the site was flat, like it was made for a tent. Satisfied, I crawled into my tent and relaxed, calling it another good day!
Hiker Profile:
Peanutbutter – mid 20s, from Massachusetts, completed his undergraduate degree in Environmental Science, worked at seasonal jobs since he graduated and leveraged the temporary employment time period to complete the AT and now recently free of a relationship, looking for a new adventure found himself on the PCT.
I woke to the sound of a train in the middle of the night. Clicked play on my music and dozed back off. By daybreak I was up, packing things away and getting ready to head out. The other hikers that camped under the overpass were following suit.
In the distance I saw a woman walking up with 2 bags in her hands towards the group. “Who was this?”, I thought. I soon found out it was Deborah, a trail angel that lived in the neighborhood nearby.
She greeted us with a smile and brought breakfast and coffee, what a treat! I scarfed down a donut and said my goodbyes to the group. I hiked into the desert and the blustering wind.
Jacket on, buff pulled up, I was decently warm, and mostly glad that it wasn’t raining! I hiked in the foothills towards a dark grey cloud with windmills lining the ridgeline. I pressed on, past the neighborhood just north of the I-10, and soon hidden into the mountains to the north.
How far again??
Don’t mind the power poles!
The duality of the old broken down ranch pen (on the left) to the new modern transformer plant for the wind turbines (on the right) was a mark of the times.
I trekked through the valleys and up the sidehills chatting to hikers as we met. Marie, from France, was welcoming with a smile and wave. Her blue hat was capped over her red hair and jacket zipped up to warm her. She deliberated on stopping at a windmill Trail Angel stop that was supposed to have coffee, I pressed on.
Up and over a pass I went meeting both Nocoat and Jaime as I did. The views were great! Thunderheads grew in the distance to the north and the wind just seemed to blow harder. I hurried along, chatting as we went until finally dropping off the last ridge into the valley that housed the Whitewater Preserve, my home for the night.
Thunderheads forming
Bridges at the preserve
The preserve was pretty cool, it was an old trout hatchery that was converted to a wildlife preserve. Mountain lions, bobcats, lynx, bighorn sheep, roadrunners, lizards, dirty thu hikers, all the animals of the desert were welcome here. It was a nice place to rest, and I set my tent up for another windy night.
Map of San Gorgonio, w the PCT
Nice pool out back
Hiker Profile:
Jaime – From Minnesota, got his undergraduate and graduate degree studying insects, focusing on bees and their interactions with pesticides. Moved to SoCal with his now wife who works for the forest service monitoring bee habits. After working for the department of agriculture, decided to take a break, move in w his partner and trek the PCT.
Jaime on left, Nocoat on right
Marie – 20s very nice but shy and polite red headed hiker from France. We chatted a bit but never got past the formalities before she pulled off for a break and bid her well.
Trail Angel Profile:
Deborah – Awesome, nice, goodhearted woman rockin some trifocals and a huge smile. Came and dropped off fresh coffee, including cream and sugar with a side of donuts for the crew under the bridge!
The wind was really kicking. Felt like my tent was in a mosh pit and the heavy part of the song just hit. Finally at day break, it calmed long enough for me to pack my tent and bag up and get back on the trail.
Dana was up and ready as she seemed like an early morning gal, I said goodbye, took a picture, and headed out onto the trail.
Whatever the wind held back in that morning, it made up for over the rest of the day. I pinned my hat down and covered it with my buff to make sure it didn’t take flight as I walked through the flat desert after Snow Creek towards the I-10.
I could hear the roar of the highway grow closer, and soon found myself on a service road, walking with my thumb out. The Post Office didn’t open until 8:30, but surely someone would pick me up. . . . not a soul on the road headed my way until finally Jose, from Mexico in his little blue Nissan picked me up.
I thanked him, and grabbed my resupply box (Thanks Mark!) from the Post Office. Then after some administrative work at the town library, I headed to In and Out for a burger and fries that I had been craving all day.
Stuffed to the gills, pack heavy with 6 days of food, I set back out on the road towards the junction where the I-10 met the PCT. It was still chilly from the wind gusting and the 60 degree weather. It wasn’t until the last 2 miles of my 7 mile walk from In and Out that Dave, a Marlboro smoking white bearded fella pulled over and gave me a lift.
I thanked him, we fist bumped, then I went under the overpass. To my surprise Matt (guy I hiked with day 1) showed up not long after I did! We caught up sharing stories from the last few days over dinner. It was 8.5 miles to the next camp and it was too late to start that push. Seeing as I had almost walked 17 getting around town, I decided to stay . . . under an overpass (can’t get much more homeless than this!). I pitched my tent, grabbed my headphones, and prayed for at least a little sleep.
Trail Angel:
Dave – 60s, Marlboro smoking, truck driving, kind fella that hooked me up with a ride to my home under the overpass.
If you give a mouse a cookie, he’ll ask for a glass of milk . . .
The wind had somehow found its way back to me again! In the middle of the night it started up, and didn’t give up. I threw my headphones in and played some music to fall back to sleep. It was unusually cold on top of the wind factor, so I was less than anxious to get moving. Once I got up and packed up, I looked through the trees to see a cloud blanketing the valley below.
I hurried down the trail to see if I could grab a shot in a clearing before the cloud dissipated. I was ecstatic to find the the cloud not only stayed, but covered the skyline around altitude of 5000 feet end to end along the horizon. You could see the cloud flow as it moved over the terrain below, how cool! I snapped picture after picture as I walked down the ridgeline.
I kept hiking on, taking admiring glances at the view every chance I got, until I came across Carlie. I said hello and we chatted as we hiked down about her experience thus far and what she thought of America as she was fresh from the UK. We both agreed that the PCT had incredible scenery and she told me a few places in the UK I should visit. I decided to pull off for a break and she headed on.
I just sat in awe as I snacked at the views I had. I packed up and headed on, and soon found Carlie trailside for her own break after a few miles. I kept diving down into the desert and as I descended, the landscape began to subtly, then dramatically, change. The wind was still all about blowing, but the cool temps just made the desert more enjoyable. I soon met Dana, a woman in her 60s, boldy trekking solo, and easily holding her own.
We chatted as we dropped further into the desert, she told me about where she was from, and some of the great experiences, lifestyle really, that brought her to attempting the thru hike. We soon came across Jason, giving his feet a rest and we decided to join him. Soon after, Carlie came and joined as well. From here on we leapfrogged each other, taking breaks, trekking on, all the while admiring the boulders that began to dominate the desert landscape.
Mile 200!!
Finally after a good long day we found a dirt road with a spigot installed for hikers to grab water. We set up tents, stretched, ate together, then chatted on about where we were all from and the day we were about to put to bed. The views were spectacular, the landscape incredible, just a really solid good day.
Hiker Profile:
Carlie – 35, from Salisbury England. Before starting the hike she worked for a travel agency selling vacations to Africa. Her boyfriend of 16 years (an outdoorsman) became her advocate to take a break from her office job, get outside and push her limits on a long distance trail. After some research for good treks, she settled on the PCT to test herself. One night over dinner she mentioned she had horrible shoulder pain while working at her job, but since she started hiking, all that pain went away. A little escape from a desk can really make a difference, she said!
Dana – 60s, Grew up in the Bay area, went to undergraduate at UC Santa Barbara, where she studied biology. In her senior year she was in a library and saw a picture of Half Dome in Yosemite California, which not only drove her to pursue a graduate degree in geology, but also made her into a climber. She climbed near Santa Barbara, but would also frequent Tahquites, Joshua Tree, Yosemite, and other climbing Mecas around the States. Once she graduated she taught at University of Wisconsin for 30 years and after retired with her husband to Boulder CO. She has 2 daughters in their 20s, one of which is following her footsteps with biology. Loves climbing but hasn’t done it for years. Likes to hike, really likes to section hike, and really really likes to look back after 3 days of backpacking in admiration of how far you’ve come.
There is something about standing on top of a mountain that gives you real perspective on the world.
I woke just before sunup, and went through my morning routine. I was too low on water to make coffee, but the spring just 0.7 miles north would afford me all I needed. I trekked on in the morning light, fighting off the nipping from the mornings cool breeze.
Soon I found the spring in a nice open meadow and filled up. Without sparing any time I kept pushing on, taking in the landscape as I went. I didnt see anyone as I ascedned a large plateau and started up the long switchbacks to the peak. Was everyone still in bed? No summitters today? Abducted by Aliens?! I thought for sure I would see someone, and it wasnt until a good hour or so before I finally saw 2 day hikers.
I said hello, and pressed on my way, as soon as I got to the junction to the summit, I bumped into Oz, CrisAnn, and Jason! What a treat! I said hello, they stopped for a quick rest and I pressed on, up the trail, past the emergency hut, all the way to the peak where the 360 views were magnificent! A hazy smog hovered over San Bernadino city, but the mountains beyond were magnificent!
Soon the gang joined, and the longer we sat at the peak, the more people started showing up. I snacked, chatted, and soon headed down, back to the trail to head down the mountain. The day hikers were out in droves, I must have counted 4 dozen or more! Finally after bombing down the backside I met the gang again for a quick break before heading to mile 186 for a much needed water refill. There wouldnt be any water for the next 20 miles so loading up was key.
This guys seen better days!
The next section of trail was gorgeous, pines lined the trail that bumped and dipped on the Fuller Ridge down the huge mountain. You could see for miles in the clearing, all the way down to Palm Springs and beyond. I could see the wind farms, the airid desert, and the mountains to the north.
Granite boulders and pines lined the landscape. At one point I found a huge boulder with multiple splitter cracks going up the face. I threw a handjam in one, and it was perfect fit for my hand. I wished I had some climbing shoes to boulder around, but now wasnt the time. I marked it down, and hiked on!
Finally I pulled in to camp at the Fuller Ridge trailhead. Quite a few others joined and we all chatted as we made dinner and set up tents. Another great day on the trail!
I called Grumpy, a trail Angel whos number I grabbed from Claire before she decided to leave the PCT for a cross country road trip. He answered, his quirky voice said hed be there in 50 minutes and that he would be right on time. I had told Dom and Celia the night before they could catch a ride with me, and Grumpy’s charge to ride was nothing more than a good old fist bump. Very excentric fella, but funny to chat with headed to South Ridge trailhead.
I wanted to touch as much of the PCT as possible so I decided to go up South Ridge to tie in at Mile 178 just after the fire closure. After dropping us as the trailhead he took off. I chatted with Dom and Celia just for a few minutes before they pulled off, I pressed on. The ridge was aweomse and the views were fantastic!
As I rose from the valley, the cross country views just continued to get better! Granite rock faces began to rise and I could see some good areas for climbing potential. Taquiets large grey granite face stood proud from the surrounding pines and I knew there was some good climbing history there. I pressed on firther up the ridge bumping into a few day hikers. Super nice and polite, as everyone in the area seemed to be.
I crossed the plateau, through the pines and found my camp for the night at mile 181. It was only noon, and I wanted to do an alternate route to the peak, so I decided to day hike the 4.5 miles (then back) I would miss by hiking the alternate. What a beautiful route! To my surprise I ran into CrisAnn and Oz, they had pushed up from Idyllwild early in the morning and looked a little frazzled from the push. They delibereated on their plan, so I pressed on with mine.
The trail dipped and twisted around the moutnain with picturesk view after view. At one point it seemed as though I could see LA, if only there was a little less fog!
I pressed on and shortly after seeing a few other PCTers and gathering water, I found the turnoff to San Jacinto Peak, and the turnaround point for my day hike! Whew my feet actually were a little beat. I rested up and headed back to camp. Cooked dinner, stretched out, set up the sleeping bag and clawled inside. Another great day!
Hiker Profle:
Celia + Dom
Dom worked as a software developer, and Celia went to UW for computer science. They decided to take a break and come out for an adventure. When U furst met them in Mount Laguna, they were complaining about too much weight and having troubles on the uphills. Now, after cutting down on uneeded gear, they seem to have found heir rythm, walking together on the trail!
Day Hiker Profile
Pete: 50/60s, trail runner, retired Idyllwild. Cool guy, just out there loving life!
Just because it looks like a rabbit, hops like a rabbit, doesn’t always mean it is one.
My plan is to meet my gilfriend Izzie and buddies Nick and Sam in 7 days, just 60 trail miles away. Needless to say, I either needed to slow down or burn some zero mile days. So I found myself taking a rest in the small mountain town of Idyllwild. I wont bore you with the details of running around in my rain gear to do laundry, or raiding hiker boxes around town, or even using the piblic library to get some administrative work done. But what I will tell you, is that you should definitly make a trip there to check the place out. Maybe do some hiking, mountainbiking, or even rock climbing in the muntains nearby.
Awesome wood statue in town
Full statue, thing is huge
Sweet little theater
Cool mosaic for the town
Metal Statues
Awesome cabin town
Hiker Profile:
Vagabond- Phx AZ, 50s, served in the military as infantry. Was hit by a truck few years back, and was told he’d never walk again. After reconstructive surgery and a few pins and plates later, he worked his way back to his feet. He decided to show the doctors wrong by walking across America. He was in Idyllwild taking some rest days, attempting to recover from double pneumonia. Of course his chain smoking ways wasnt helping much. I though the guy was homeless at first, but after hearing his story, I undestood a little better where he was coming from. Kind eyes from a rough road.
Woke up late (late in hiker terms) 6:30 and sluggishly got moving. I only had 7 miles to push the back way to Idyllwild from Hurkey Campground and I was in no hurry to get goign.
Smokebeard was already up and gone, Darin, Oz, and ChrisAnn were hanging out and playing it slow as they were hoping to catch a hitch into town. I was trying to slow play the day so I packed up and got on trail a little after 8.
Strolling on, it was nice to have a bit of change. I had the trail all to myself and the trail went from nice and prime to rutted out and unclear. It reminded me of being back home, on backcountry trails.
I used the chance of being off the PCT to call home as I walked. Taking in the views as I hiked, 1 headphone in, without another soul in sight. Thats alright by me!
Finally after a few miles I entered the city limits of Idyllwild. What a sweet town! There were quant little cottages, and a small down home feel to the moutnain town. The small comunity continued on as I hiked down into the town center. I peered into side yards and admired the houses and cool decorations.
Finally I pulled into town where I was surprised to find such a high amount of traffic. The town was buzzing with locals, hikers, and tourists looking to get a taste of the vibe in the town. It was small, but not too small to get bored. Plenty of cool little shops, art galleries, cafes, resturants, post office, outfitters. If you have never been, take a little time and visit this remote, yet accessible sweet town!
I found my way to the state park where I would call home for the night, set up my tent, and rand some erronds in town. Although no true PCT miles, it was still a great day exploring a new place.
Hiker Profile:
CrisAnn + Oz
The 2 teachers met in Indonesia while teaching English to children. They became great friends and soon after decided to try to find out what they wanted to do with their lives, out on the PCT. CrisAnn (from Houston TX) sports a hefty DSLR camera, and Oz has bright red shiny gaiters which earned her the trailname she reps . . . . She also goes by bun bun . . . Because she has a niece and nefew who she babysits . . . and apparenty when she sees a bunny on the tail, she reverts to speaking like she would with them =)
I woke up without an alarmhi and started the morning routine. About half way through putting on my shirt I felt a bite on my leg. I instinctually slapped my leg, and thought nothing of it. Then bam, I got hit again. I looked up and the morning light started to shine though, I could see in the silloette 6 or 7 ants, CRAP!
I grabbed my headlamp and shined it, there were ants everywhere! Let the war begin! The ants must have got on my backpack in the night and when I went to grab my clothes out the were distributed inside my tent. I shook them off me, grabbed my stuff and undoubtedly looking like a mad man shook off my clothes and my sleeping bag. When the dust settled, I made it out alive andI felt really bad about the holocaust of ants I left behind =(
Finally after the tragic event, I packed up and got on the trail a few minutes after I saw another couple of hikers pass by. It was all uphill first thing with killer views all around! I pushed up and on, to the next campsite where I found Catfish and Rose hanging out and chillin out on a break. We chatted for a minute before pressing on up the ridge.
After a few miles, I took a break making a tasty chicken and pepperonni burrito. Ohhh it was tasty and I took in the views! Soon Lewis, Janet, and Darren showed up. We chatted for a moment before dropping off the topout and headed towards Forbes saddle.
Once at the saddle, we chatted for a bit and then looked at each other before makiing the decision t press up the ridge and touch every bit of trail we can or drop down early. Darren and I decided to press on where Lewis and Janet decided to drop early. The push was hearty, I headed up alone, heart pumping and sweat dripping up the good grind until finally I got the Spitler trail where the official PCT alternate trail started. Smokebeard, Oz, and CrisAnn were hanging out, Darren soon showed up.
Darren and Lewis
Finally we dropped off together, gathering water at 1.2 miles, and pressed the final 4.5 miles to the road. Man what a push, although it was downhill, it was a long long stretch. We went down the burn area and I could imagine how beautiful it was before the burn. Birds chirped and squirrels skampered. Finally we found ourselves hot, tired, and at the road, woundering if the last stretch was only 4.5?!
An awesome trail angel couple showered up and shuttled 6 of us to the Hurkey Creek campground where 5 of us found our home for the night. What a great day! We pitched tents, grabbed a coin shower, and cooked dinner for the night. What a great day!
Trail Angel’s for the win!!
Hiker Profile:
Janet: UCSantaCruise Feminist studies (law, policy, history) and psychology. Felt a little outside the group in her study but enjoyed learning how to have a strong opinion to not be so influenced by social media and other social pressures. Worked at a law firm in accounting, went back to school for accounting at UCBerkly. Now decided to quote and do the PCT while her body still can.
Catfish + Rose: kingman az, both completed the AT last now trying PCT. Rose is on the wildlife fire crew, seasonally, and catfish works as an xray tech.
I woke early as usual, just as twilight began. I started the daily routine of packing away my tent, pulling out breakfast, and getting everything I needed to survive into a little backpack.
Once the first rays of the sun hit me, I was already on trail pressing north. After just a few miles wandering through the manzanita I came upon Muir Woods. It was a small private property area that the owner set up a water cache, bathroom, mini shower, small camp area, and book exchange cabinet. It was so cool!! Lewis, Tori, Janette, Smokebeard, and Chunky Monkey were all there hanginging out before pressing on.
Chunky Monkey (from Austria) submitting a book for exchange
We chatted for a bit and the most anyone could talk about was Paradise Cafe, a 1 mile hitch into town from a rod just 8 miles away. Chunkey Monkey had set his last 3 days of hiking so he would get there just as they served lunch. All that talk was getting me hungry!
We pressed on through the mananita maze, twisting back and forth up and down unil we popped out just west of Lookout Moutnain and really got some stellar views! Mountains for miles and really cool rock formations everywhere.
We pressed the remaining miles to the road, and as soon as Lewis put his thumb out a car came sliding in to pick us up. 3 of of jumped in and Richard (and his dog Jano) was just passing through was nice enough to give us a ride to the cafe!
He screetched off, and in jus a few miles pulled up to the cafe, we were all in high spirits, chatting back and forth about what to get. I had Biscutes and Gravy with an ice cold IPA. After scarfong down breakfast like tiny Tim, we were back on the road and hitched back to the PCT where we left.
It was warm now, but we had miles to make. Smokebeard, Michal, Lewis, Janette, Kim, Ryan, and I (quite the gang) pressed on and up the trail as the scenery began to change. Pines came into view and huge ranite boulders lined the trail. After some miles we finally came to out water resupply cutoff. We hiked down the 0.3 miles to a cool spring emptying into a trough of water, what heven!
After restocking we pressed up the hills and the final miles through some gorgeous oak trees to a beautiful shadded campsite. We set up tents, made dinner and joked together before finally calling it a night. Just a few more miles to Idyllwild!
Hiker Profile:
Smokebeard – Ed, 46, vegetarian, from Rhode Island, with 5 acres in the sticks where him and his wife reside. They have 2 goats, 3 sheep, and a few chickens. With a Mechanical Engineering degree, he works on software from home and every once in a while saves up and takes off to the woods for a thru hike.
Smokebeard, holding what we have dubbed, the deathcone!
“Here comes the sun” . . . . De doo de dee – The Beetles
I woke before the sun rose and I could tell it had been much warmer than any other night thus far on the trail. I could actually get up and out of my tent without putting on all my layers including my hoody, while shivering myself to death. I went through the morning routine, and was soon feet on the trail headed north.
The trail meandered, there was thick brush on either side and it seemed to snake around, turn after turn. At mile 5.5, I plopped for a usual morning snack break and took a load off my feet. The terrain in this section was pretty similar, green bushes covered the hillside and the trail was brown and bouldery.
I pressed on and finally the scenery started to change, more cactus and less bushes. In the distance I could see a big white tent. I thought nothing of it at first but as I neared it, I woundered if it were just off the trail. I rounded the bend and there was a large tent and Niko the trail angel chilling inside.
Along with him was Mike from Ireland and his gilfriend from France. Niko, who looked a bit like a surfer with shoulder length dirty blond hair and red reflective Okleys on, invited me in and offered up some oranges, water, chips. Whatever I felt like grabbing. It was a cool setup, definitly a car camping palace for sure.
All of the sudden it was like the Truman show, pepole were coming out of the woodworks left and right! Tori, Smokebeard, Lewis, Kim, Ryan, and a few others just started rolling in. We all hung out and chatted for a bit, resting our feel and rehydrating.
I knew I couldnt stay all day and although the company was great, the trail wasnt going to hike itself. I pressed on and so did the sun! The terrain turned more hilly and some of the flats that we had turned to climbs. The sun began beating on me head, and it reminded me of trekking in AZ, I smiled and pressed on. After passing a water cistern that had some pretty bleak looking water in it. I was thought back and was pretty thankful we happened upon Niko.
Cistern with questionable water
Soon after the cistern I met up with Kim and Ryan again, just chilling under a tree. I chatted for a moment, and then we got around to recalling out top 5 favorite films, and all kinds of other silly trail banter. We pressed on together for a bit, then I pushed up a nice hill into the heat ahead. Finally after some good miles I found the water cache at Table Mountain Truck trail, just 19 gallons left. I filled 2 liters up. Soon Kim and Ryan rounded the corner pretty happy to find me standing on top of the water cashe singing the Lion King theme song where Simba is being held up on the rock! “Nants ingonyama bagithi baba / Sithi uhhmm ingonyama”
We all preesed the last mile together and grabbed a camp among some pretty sweet boulders. I had no climbing shoes, but felt a few out. There were doable lines on the highballs, but getting down would be another story all together. I played around a bit on the smaller ones before setting up my tent and settling in. Another great day on the trail!
Hiker Profile:
Michael – 23, from Seattle, just applied for med school after graduating in biology from Virginia where he played college football as a tight end. Figured while his girlfriend is in Nicaragua, and hes waiting for acceptance to med school, he would come try his hand at the PCT. Hes rockin a bear canister from the start . . . Everones been giving him shit for carrying the weight when he doesn’t need it for another 600 miles 🙂
Michael, stretching and being goofy!
Trail Angel Profile:
Niko – Trail Angel, looking for friends. He was part owner in a production company and dabbled in art. He used to surf, but like to go sailing now. After his mom bought him a Costco membership he started bringing some good trail magic to different areas because he loved camping and meeting new people.
I woke early, went through the usual routine. I wasnt in a large hurry this morning so I made coffee and sipped it as I broke down my tent. It was a pretty nice campsite, not far from a gugling creek, tucked back under a nice strong tree.
Found surprise messages in my TP 🙂 You rock Chris!
Pack strapped on, I let out on the trail. As soon as I did I ran into Ryan and Snake-eyes (Kim) who I had bumped into the night before brefly just before camp. They were all smiles and we chatted for a bit as the three of us gained the mananita covered hillsides, leaving the safety of the tree covered creek bed.
They were from North Carolina, and wanted to try their hand at the PCT. They stopped to pull off layers and I pressed on. It wasnt too long winding up the switchbacks before I ran into a trail Angel with her 2 dogs! Topaz was there handing out ornages, capree suns, bananas, and other snacks. Trail Angels go out of there way just to support the hiking community and leave goddies for them to grab.
There was lots of granite faces and boulders NE of Pine Mountain near Indian water flats, could there be climbing there?
I pressed on winding up the hill before spotting a granit boulder jetting up from the surrounding shrubs. I thought that would be a great spot to take a rest, so I walked over and scrambed up the fun ascent to the top! What a view!!
After a much needed rest I pressed on the next few miles until happening upon Mikes Place. Another trail Angel, he lets hikers camp in his yard, sometimes makes pizza and burritoes for them. I walked in and hung around in the hammock for a while chattin with Breeze, ki, Rryan, Offtrail, and Scott. Burrito in hand and a nice breeze, I couldnt ask for more!
Chilling at Mike’s Place
Knowing I needed to press on I filtered 4 liters, packed my bag and rolled out hiking another 2.5 miles before finding my camo for the night. It was still early so I scrambled up Comb Peak, right next to camp for fun. I retuned, finsh getting setup and broke out som Turkey Mac + Cheese, compliments of Nick Norwood. Spicy and deliecious! Another great day on the trail =)
This ain’t your ma’s Turkey Mac-n-Cheese
Hiker Profile:
Kim + Ryan
AT completion last year, from Charlotte NC, coming to check out the pct.
Trail Angel – Topaz: 49, originally from Washington, moved to Texas with her sister then came to cali for work. She lives in an 84 motorhome, enjoying her work, living just off Lake Henshaw, and she planned to hiking the full PCT next year.
All work an no play makes Jack a dull boy! – 1659 proverb
The Nero Day . . . Nearly Zero. Its good to have a rest. I used the hiker friendly Civic Center as a place to rest, chill, and get the engines back to neutral. You cant crank all day every day, so a good break once a week on the trail is great for your body to recover.
Yup, that’s a bunny, at the civic center.
I woke without an alarm set, there was no rush to breakfast, no tent to break down as myself and a few other PCTers crashed in the hiker hut. Tori, Claire, and I sluggishly made our way into town by 8am (late by hiker standards) and grabbed breakfast at the golf country club (the only grill in town) and had a really relaxed morning.
I grabbed my resupply box from the post office next door, where I met Ghost. He was a trail angel that gave rides to people from town to the civic center, and all over really.
I got back, washed my clothes in a provided bucket, took a bucket shower, reorganized my pack, and hung out with other hikers chatting. I got my pack ready, out with the old and in with the new. After some much needed administrative work, I gathered my things and started back on the trail at 4pm.
I wanted to take it easy but still make forward progress. I started getting antsy at the Civic Center. Walking again felt so nice, and I took the view in stride.
Moooooo
The open planes called my name and the walking was relatively relaxed. The temperature was perfect, and the open landscape was followed by a small forest with some of the most awesome trees. It was so nice.
When is the last time you got on a tire swing?!
The afternoon was so delightful. After a quick 5 miles, I grabbed water from the creek, set up camp, and ate dinner with a few other hikers camping nearby. Such a simple, chill, and fullfilling day.
“The hills are alive with the sound of music.” – Sound of Music
I woke in the middle of the night to the sound of wind beating on the side of my tent like it wanted in. The wind that plagued me 2 nights before had found me again! I tried to close my eyes and ignore it, but it just came knocking again. I then reached for my headphones, hit play on my favorite sleeping soundtrack and went right back to sleep, drowning out the noise.
I finally got moving around 5:30 after turning my music on again a time or two in the night. The sky was on fire and an ominous cloud moved in as the wind howled.
“Red sky at night, shepherd delight. Red sky in the morning, shepherds warning” – old Scottish saying
I didnt have time to hunker down, so i packed up and let out on the trail. It was cold, and the wind didnt help, I had my jacket on, hood up, buff covering my face and I was still shivering.
I trekked on in the shadow of the mountain and saw a few hikers, trailside, taking down their tents and getting ready to let out. I trekked these miles alone and they went pretty fast. Just before my first break I passed Claire from Scottland who was also all bundled up. After a nice break in a little nestled area I let out and pushed for the next 5. I caught up to Claire and we chatted again in passing as the rain begain to drizzleon us. I mentioned we were about to hit 100 miles, and we were both excited to hit the milestone (despite the rain). Afterward I breaked and we chatted about what she was doing so far from home and what brought me to the PCT.
3rd Gate Water Cache
We first bumped and I headed out, along chatting as we went. She mentioned her front Tori was ahead and we trekked on through the wind and rain. Sometimes its nice to have someone to chat with, it makes the hard miles a little easier to bear.
100 baby!
Finally the sun came out and we found ourselves bombing down through a forested area and soon a road materialized! We hopped a chained fence and continued trekking on through the fields until finally we found the open praries. How beautiful, I didnt expect such a dramatic change. Claire had pulled back by now and i pushed on. Trekking until mile 105 where I found a nice creek to rest by.
After a few both Claire and Tori pulled up, ready to trek the last 4.5. I packed up, pulling myself from the serence creekside rock lounge chair, and pressed on towards eagle rock! It was such a cool formation when we finally reached it. We took turn snapping pictures, and climbing around on it. What a cool find!
We pushed the last 3.5 together very quickly, chatting as we went. Tori was half sweedish and was here between her masters and PHD in biological medicin. She wanted to study infectious diseases and make a difference in healthcare system. Really cool stuff. Pasture after pasture we pressed on, until dumping into a small wooded area and finally popping out at Warner Springs Civic Center!
What a cool place, free camping, wifi, showers, laundry, to all PCT hikers! We checked in, grabbed a spot to sleep, and headed into town for some food. After dinner and chatting it up w other hikers we road walked back to the camp. Tired but satusfied we made it back. What a great way to end a great day!
Hiker Profile:
Claire + Tori:
Claire – 33 from Glascow Scottland, came to America to NY, then drove route 66 fell in love with classic cars and motorcycles, now got inspired and wanted to try this hike despite never been camping before.
Tori – 24, Half swedish, half American just finished her Masters in Sweden getting ready to start a PHD in infectious diseases at University of Pennsylvania. Lived in Sweden for 3 years before coming to the west to hopefully complete her PCT hike before starting school in August.
I listened to the water crash like waves on a beach with the rhythm of my steps.
I woke up from a real full nights rest. After pushing 22 miles plus an extra 2.2 for water I was pretty beat. I dont think I didnt moved an inch all night! I woke up, packed up and walked out to the trail to see Matt, the guy I trekked with on day 1! “Hey Mike, Whats up dude, I didnt think I was going to see you again!” He said. It was good to see him, Steve and Raj also rolled in with him and camped out.
Seemed like there was a pack of 7 of us total in the area and we were all headed for Scissor Crossings, our next water resupply (water cache). Water is life out here and being efficient but not too risky is key. I had 6 liters on me and didnt meee it all so offered the fellas some before I dumped it. They all divided it up, and I said fairwell and struck out on the trail.
These mountains reminded me of AZ. The cactus, the brown rock, ocotillo, buckhorn cholla, agave, it was all here except for the sugaros. As I trekked on I forgot to take the air out of my Sawyer Squeeze bladder, and I could hear the sloshing as I walked, it reminded me of the ocean. I trekked on until finding a nice spot at mile 5 to rest. Soon Bristlecone popped up to my surprise and we chatted for a minute about a recent Boeing tragedy . . . sad stuff. Done with my break I got up to leave just as Raj came rounded the corner. He was amed up and ready to trek. We pushed the next few miles to the crossing together chatting as we went. As soon as we got to the crossing booth Matt and Steve caught up. Just at that moment a hitch to Julian came availible and they all lept at the chance. I had other plans!
Raj, being silly
Scissor Crossing Water cache
I trekked the next miles alone, happy to do so as they were warm and the sun beaded down on me. I meandered in and out, seeing hikers and chatting as I went. Finally with my feet calling to me, I found a nice little pad to call home for the night. I had pushed 20, and my body knew it. Time to rest, another awesome day!
Hiker Profile:
Steven and Raj: UCSD graduates coming out to the PCT for a nice break after school. Steve was from NY and Raj Cali. Raj studies Human Biology and hoped to go back for pre-med and hopefully become a surgeon.
Bristlecone + Uber Bitch: A couple that had hiked the PCT twice together, once as a section, once as a thru hike. Now Uber Bitch (Emily) was helping to support Bristlecone do it as a thru hike at the ripe old age of 80. Dont let the age fool you, the guy can move!!
Paint the landscape. Do it with words do it with oil, but you’ll never capture it’s true beauty.
In the morning the wind had finally died down. I had woke several times in the night to the howling wind and shivering cold, I sintched the hood of my sleeping bag down.
When my alarm blasted, I started moving with a purpose. To my surprise my tent was covered in a thin sheet of ice, my almost empty bottles had ice in them. Wow! It must have got into the 20s.
I packed up, shivering, and finally found sunlight as I walked the road from the campground back to the trail. I trekked on, taking in the views as i did. Finally I caught a full glimpse of the desert below. It reminded me of AZ. Soon i happened upon Dillan, sitting trailside painting, in oils of all things. We chatted for a bit and I pressed on.
I would trek for 5 miles then have a rest, rummaging through my bag for snacks, pulling my shoes off. I looked like a hobo no doubt. Turn after turn the trail gave me spectacular views.
Trail Magic!!!
Towards the end of the long day I came into camp, at Rodriguez’s fire tank, no water at the spigot, darn. My alternative water source was 1.1 miles downhill, I trekked it pretty tired already. I schleped 5 liters of clean water back to camp. Made dinner, put up the tent.
An older fella (80 years) came up to chat. His name was bristlecone, like the oldest pines. Apparently because he is the oldest thing on the trail. He was doing the full push to my amazement! Man what a day, never know who you’ll meet!
Hiker Profile:
The Painter – Dillian, 24, from Orange County New York, went to florence Italy for art school. He was a scenic painter for Jimmy Fallon, saved up to paint the PCT. Will be completing 6 oil paintings per week. If he has to skip sections he will, it’s mostly about the painting for him!
Holy crap it was windy today! I woke several times in the night to a few gusts of wind. The camp I chose below the oak tree was nestled in a small valley that was somewhat shielded by the winds. I got up and started the morning regiment before standing ready to start the day with my pack strapped on my back.
it was chilly to start and I left my hoody on. I trekked on through the high deser shub lined trail headed up towards MounLaguna, my next resupply. As I trekked I happened upon Jenn who was grabbing water from Long Canyon Creek, and joining in I chatted for a few. She was from Florida, and was happyto be back west in the mountains again. After gathering my water, I said goodbye and headed on. Trekking up and through the hills until right at mile 39 where I found the first pine of the day!
I was getting closer to the little Mountain community as soon enterered through Burn Rancheria Campground. To my surprise The Three Amigoes (As I started to call them) were hanging out by a bathroom resting for a quick break. I chatted with them as well and found that they came from Spain and had only been in the country a few days. Attempting the full push withh only 1 tent between the three of them!
Once again I pressed on and made it to Laguna Lodge where I resupplied my food in the store there. A decent selection but a little pricey. After chatting with a few other hikers on the porch I went back the way I came, started back on the PCT and pressed on. The wind began to build . . .
It was like a middle school bully trying to grab your hat by the bill because he wanted to play keepaway with it. The wind gusted. As I neared the edge of a dropoff it pushed even harder. My head down I forded my way up the trail shivering through until finally taking an exit on Sunrise Highway. I walked up to Laguna Mountain Campground where pleasenetly I found a shower and a wall outlet in the bathroom to charge my phone =)
Now im hunkered down, the wind continuing to gust beating on my tent walls, hoping that the 21 deg forecast for tonight is just a joke. Well see!!
Hiker Profile:
Jenn,Florida, early 20s after grandparents passed and moved way, came to hike. Used to live in Tucson Az where she learned to backpack.
The three amigos: John, Sich, Nerea. From barsalona Spain, hiking together, sleeping in 1 tent, seem to be good pals, mid 20s
I woke early, at Lake Morena to the sound of my alam as usual. I wasnt ready to get up to the 35 degree morning and I could feel damage in my legs from the day before, but I knew it was time to move.
Mark stoked a fire and we got breakfast rolling! Bacon, hashbrowns, corn beef hash. A final feast before I set out on my own for the rest of the journey.
I soon packed up, belly full, said my goodbyes and start back on the the trail touching off where I had left before. The first section was open, high desert and wounded through. Every one in a while I would dive into a green glassland area with large cottonwoods suckling at a nearby creek. But then, back out to the high desert.
Vista after vista I kept on, breaking when I was ready, eating as much as I could. I stopped off at Kitchen Creek Falls for a nice dip and a awesome water resupply. The water was so freaking nice!
With spirits lifted, I trekked on, pushing up and through the sage and manzabita. In the final stretch to camp my legs began to tire. I could tell my calves were pretty beat. I pushed myself through the final miles to find a nice camp below a large Oak tree. Tent erected, food cooked and devoured, nothing left but a little shut eye to recover the old body. An awesome day!
It was surprisingly windy and in the 60s in the desert. Somehow I found myself standing on the boarder of Mexico and the US looking north towards Canada, only 2650 miles to go! . . . . Who thought this was a good idea?! My buddy Mark and his brother Michael offered to send me off. It had been 4 weeks since I put my 2 weeks notice in at my job, and everything seemed so scream by getting prepared. It just felt like starting a day hike, didnt seem real. There were 20 Miles between me and my next camp. Time to roll on!
Mark joined, Michael shuttled, met Matt another thru hiker keeping a similar pace. He was skinny, 25, from Peoria Il and strapped a bolstering pack. The landscape was surprisingly green down here and the temps and views were pretty stellar the whole first section. We strolled through open high desert to lush green tunnels and seeing water twice. It was undoubtedly beautiful. There were 19, count them 19 other thru hikers we saw that day, I’d never seen so many people backpacking within a 20 mile stretch.
We pulled into camp as the sun set at Lake Morena. Michael and his girlfriend were waiting. We stoked a fire, threw a final meal on and before long I was in my tent nuzzled up with the first day behind me. Crazy . . . But a really great day!
Hiker Profile: Matt
Matt – 25, skinny guy from Peoria Il and strapped a bolstering pack. He guided at a ranch in Wyoming and was pretty experienced with the outdoors. Also worked at Lego before he decided to leave the long hours to the outdoors!
Seeking Outdoor Adventure
Find an Adventure
There are TONS of resources out there. Books, websites, word of mouth. These are just a few Go To sites I use to find hike, climbs, and all around adventure.
Do your research on your hike! ALWAYS bring a paper map, do not EVER solely rely on a GPS track to get you there. Alright, now that the “spiel” is out of the way . . . here is how you create some killer custom GPS tracks for yourself that you cannot already download online (and just straight up don’t want to pay for).
Put your GPS tracks to work. You should technically use an actual GPS devise for your tracks. Garmin’s are super solid, accurate, waterproof, and wont break when you drop them. If you don’t have $300 to drop on a GPS, and you are just hiking around town, there are a few good phone Apps will serve the same purpose. The following Apps will allow you to pre-download maps and overlay both GPS tracks and your current GPS location (you don’t need a cell signal, just a clear view to the sky for GPS):
Go prepared! Places like slot canyons or river crossings could quickly swell, or turn into flash flood areas, leaving you stranded or worse. As a part of prepping for your trek, choosing the appropriate gear for weather is critical so you aren’t caught with your pants down.
I like to use a few different sources to cross reference. Here are some great sites I use regularly to check for weather: